Isopods make an excellent supplemental feeder for reptiles, amphibians and invertebrates. They're rich in protein and unusually high in calcium - so much so that, unlike crickets, they often don't need dusting before feeding - they trigger natural hunting and foraging, and a breeding colony keeps replenishing itself for free. They're best thought of as a nutritious addition to a varied feeding routine rather than a sole staple. This guide covers why they work so well, the best species to use, and how to feed them.
One quick but important point, since you'll often see isopods called "feeder insects": they're not insects, they're crustaceans - closer relatives of shrimp and crabs - which is part of what gives them their distinctive nutritional profile. If you'd like the wider picture, our beginner's guide to isopod keeping covers keeping a colony going.
Why Use Isopods as Feeders?
A few things make them stand out from standard feeders:
- High calcium. This is the headline benefit. Isopods carry a lot of calcium in their calcified exoskeletons - the armoured Armadillidium and the big Porcellio species especially - which supports bone health in the animals that eat them. They're so calcium-rich that, unlike crickets and many other feeders, they usually don't need dusting with a calcium supplement first.
- Protein and minerals. They're a solid protein source and also provide phosphorus and other minerals, giving a more rounded nutritional profile than some commercially-bred feeders.
- Enrichment. Released into an enclosure, isopods scuttle and burrow, prompting reptiles, amphibians, spiders and scorpions to hunt and forage as they would in the wild - good for both physical activity and mental stimulation.
- Self-sustaining and clean. A feeder colony breeds continuously, so you're not constantly re-buying livestock, and any isopods not eaten simply become part of the cleanup crew, processing waste rather than dying off like escaped crickets.
Are Isopods a Complete Feeder?
It's worth being realistic: isopods are a great supplemental feeder, not usually a sole diet. They add variety, calcium and enrichment alongside other feeders and whatever else your animal needs, rather than replacing a varied feeding routine entirely. Used that way - as one valuable component of a mixed diet - they're hard to beat, particularly for the calcium boost. As always, check what's appropriate for your specific animal before changing its diet.
Which Isopods Make the Best Feeders?
The best feeder species are the larger, hardy, fast-breeding ones that can keep up with demand:
- Dairy Cow (Porcellio laevis) - large, very prolific and easy to breed, making them one of the most popular feeders. Their size means they're a substantial mouthful, and a colony rebounds quickly. Browse the Porcellio collection for these and similar.
- Dwarf whites (Trichorhina tomentosa) - tiny, parthenogenetic and extremely prolific, ideal as a feeder for small or delicate animals like dart frogs, and they survive predation through sheer numbers.
- Porcellio scaber and Armadillidium - hardy, prolific and calcium-rich; the armoured Armadillidium in particular are among the highest-calcium isopods.
Match the size of the isopod to the animal eating it, and lean toward species that breed fast enough to sustain a feeder colony. Slower-breeding premium species (like most Cubaris) are better kept as pets than used as feeders.
How to Feed Isopods to Your Pets
There are a few approaches depending on your animal:
- Live, in the enclosure. The most natural option - release a few isopods and let your pet hunt. In a bioactive setup, a resident colony doubles as both cleanup crew and an occasional self-replenishing snack.
- Live, hand- or dish-fed. For more controlled feeding, offer isopods directly so you can track how many are eaten.
- Frozen or dried. Available for convenience and storage, useful for animals that accept non-live food.
To get the most from them, gut-load the isopods first - feed your colony well on vegetables, leaf litter and a little protein in the days before using them as feeders, so they pass that nutrition on. A well-fed feeder colony is a more nutritious one.
Keeping a Feeder Colony
Breeding isopods for feeders is simple and cost-effective. A ventilated tub or terrarium, a moisture-retaining substrate with leaf litter and rotting wood, some hides, a calcium source and a moisture gradient is all it takes. Keep the colony warm, fed and stocked with leaf litter, and it will multiply steadily, giving a continuous supply without repeated trips to buy feeders. Starting with a hardy, prolific species makes this almost effortless - which is exactly why isopods have become such a popular sustainable feeder.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are isopods good feeders for reptiles?
Yes, as a supplemental feeder. They're high in calcium and protein, often don't need dusting, encourage natural foraging, and a colony replenishes itself. They're best used alongside a varied diet rather than as the only food.
Do isopods need to be dusted with calcium before feeding?
Usually not. Isopods are naturally very high in calcium thanks to their calcified exoskeletons - especially Armadillidium and large Porcellio - so they often provide enough on their own, unlike crickets.
What are the best isopods to use as feeders?
Large, hardy, fast-breeding species: Dairy Cows (Porcellio laevis) for a substantial feeder, and dwarf whites for small or delicate animals like dart frogs. Match the isopod size to the animal eating it.
Are isopods insects?
No - they're crustaceans, related to shrimp and crabs, not insects. That's part of what gives them their calcium-rich, nutritious profile as feeders.
Can isopods be a reptile's only food?
They're best as a supplement rather than a sole diet, adding calcium, protein and enrichment to a varied feeding routine. Always check what's appropriate for your specific animal.
How do you gut-load isopods?
Feed your colony well on vegetables, leaf litter and a little protein in the days before using them as feeders, so they pass that nutrition on to whatever eats them.
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