NEW ARRIVALS (29)

Armadillidium maculatum "Yellow Zebra" is a selectively bred colour morph of the popular Zebra isopod, displaying bold yellow and black striping instead of the standard white and black pattern. This variation has become increasingly popular among collectors for its warmer, more vibrant appearance while retaining all the hardy, beginner-friendly characteristics that make the species so widely kept. If you're familiar with regular Zebra isopods, you'll find Yellow Zebras just as straightforward to care for—with added visual appeal. A Glimpse Origin: France / Mediterranean (selectively bred colour morph) Scientific Name: Armadillidium maculatum "Yellow Zebra" Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.5-1.8 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 20-26°C (68-79°F) Ventilation: Medium to High Humidity: 50-70% (with moisture gradient) Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, limestone Yellow Zebra Isopods: Introduction The Yellow Zebra is a colour morph of Armadillidium maculatum that has been selectively bred to replace the typical white striping with yellow pigmentation. The result is a striking yellow and black banded pattern that stands out against substrate and makes them particularly appealing for display enclosures. Standard Armadillidium maculatum (Zebra isopods) are often recommended as one of the best species for beginners—they're hardy, tolerant of a range of conditions, reasonably active once settled, and breed well in captivity. The Yellow Zebra morph shares all these characteristics while offering something a bit more visually distinctive than the common black and white form. Native to the Mediterranean region and southern France, the species naturally inhabits semi-arid deciduous woodland. They prefer drier conditions than many tropical isopods but still need access to moisture. Their ability to roll into a tight defensive ball (conglobation) is characteristic of the Armadillidium genus and adds to their appeal as "roly-poly" or "pill bug" type isopods. Yellow Zebra Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults typically reach 1.5-1.8 cm in length Bold yellow and black banded pattern across the segmented body Colour intensity can vary between individuals—selective breeding can improve stripe definition Smooth, domed exoskeleton typical of Armadillidium species Ability to conglobate (roll into a complete ball) when threatened Shorter antennae compared to Porcellio species Juveniles display the yellow pattern from birth, though colouration may intensify with maturity Colour Morphs of Armadillidium maculatum The Zebra isopod has been bred into several colour variants: Standard Zebra: Black and white striped pattern—the original wild-type colouration Yellow Zebra: This morph—yellow replaces white in the striping Chocolate Zebra: White stripes on a dark brown base Dalmatian/High White: Predominantly white with black spots rather than stripes Spotted Zebra: White spots instead of continuous stripes The Yellow Zebra morph breeds true when yellow individuals are paired together. Mixing with other colour morphs will produce varied offspring over subsequent generations. Behaviour Armadillidium maculatum are among the more active and visible isopod species once they've settled into their enclosure. Settling in: Like most isopods, they may be shy initially while they assess their new environment. Give them a week or two to establish themselves, after which they typically become more confident. Activity levels: Once comfortable, Yellow Zebras are reasonably active and will forage openly, even during daylight hours. They're not as secretive as many Cubaris species, making them more rewarding for keepers who want to actually see their isopods. Defence: When disturbed, they roll into a tight ball—classic pill bug behaviour. This is their primary defence mechanism since they can't run as quickly as Porcellio species. Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with other isopods and terrarium inhabitants without issues. Conglobation: Their ability to roll into a perfect sphere is characteristic of the Armadillidium genus and is always satisfying to observe. Diet Yellow Zebra isopods are straightforward to feed, accepting the standard isopod diet. Primary foods: Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, hawthorn, and similar hardwoods) Decaying wood and bark Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, butternut squash, sweet potato, cucumber Fish flakes for protein Small amounts of fruit occasionally Moss (they'll graze on it) Calcium: Essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as a constant source in the enclosure. Feeding approach: They're not fussy. Maintain a base of leaf litter and decaying wood in the enclosure, and supplement with vegetables every few days. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours to prevent mould. Don't overfeed—let them work through what's available before adding more. Yellow Zebra Isopods: Breeding This species breeds well in captivity, making them excellent for hobbyists wanting to grow their colony. Breeding basics: Females carry eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles Brood sizes are moderate Breeding rate is steady—not explosive like some Porcellio species, but reliable Population will grow consistently under good conditions Maintaining the yellow morph: To keep the yellow colouration breeding true, don't mix Yellow Zebras with other maculatum colour morphs. If you want to improve stripe definition or colour intensity, you can selectively breed individuals with the strongest yellow pigmentation. Conditions for breeding: Stable temperature within preferred range Appropriate humidity with drier and more humid areas available Adequate calcium for breeding females Sufficient hiding spots and space Difficulty: Breeding is classified as intermediate, but this is relative—they're still significantly easier to breed than many exotic species. Most keepers with basic experience will have success. Yellow Zebra Isopods: Habitat Setup Enclosure: A standard plastic container with ventilation works well. These isopods benefit from good airflow, so ensure adequate ventilation holes or mesh sections. A 10-15 litre container suits a starter colony, with larger enclosures for established populations. Substrate: Use a substrate that holds some moisture but isn't constantly wet: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention Leaf litter worked into the substrate and layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout Sand mixed in for drainage (optional) Substrate depth of 5-8 cm is sufficient. They don't burrow as extensively as some species but appreciate being able to dig into the substrate when needed. Moisture gradient: Important for this semi-arid species. They need some moisture for hydration and moulting but prefer drier conditions overall than tropical species. Set up approximately one quarter to one third of the enclosure with damp sphagnum moss or misted substrate, leaving the rest drier. This allows them to choose their preferred microclimate. Overall humidity: Aim for 50-70%. Avoid consistently high humidity—these are Mediterranean isopods, not rainforest species. Good ventilation helps prevent the enclosure becoming too humid. Ventilation: Medium to high ventilation is beneficial. Use mesh sections in the lid or plenty of ventilation holes. Cross-ventilation (holes on opposite sides) helps maintain airflow. Cover any openings with fine mesh to prevent escapes—while they're not great climbers, it's worth being cautious. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat stones or slate Hardwood bark pieces Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss in the humid corner Provide plenty of hiding spots. They'll establish preferred areas within the enclosure and feel more secure with options for cover. Temperature: Room temperature (20-26°C) works well. They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. In winter, if temperatures drop significantly, a heat mat on a thermostat can help maintain appropriate warmth. Lighting: Normal room lighting is fine. They're not as light-sensitive as some species and will be active in moderate lighting once established. Suitability Yellow Zebra isopods are excellent for beginners and experienced keepers alike. Good choice for: Beginners wanting an attractive, hardy first species Keepers who want visible, active isopods Display enclosures where appearance matters Those interested in selective breeding for colour Semi-arid or Mediterranean-style bioactive setups Not ideal for: High-humidity tropical setups (better options exist) Keepers wanting very rapid colony growth (Porcellio scaber breeds faster) Bioactive use: They work well as cleanup crew in appropriate bioactive setups, particularly for animals requiring moderate humidity levels. Their size and defensive rolling behaviour offer some protection from predation, though very small juveniles may still be eaten by some reptiles. Care level: Low difficulty. They're forgiving of minor husbandry mistakes, tolerate a range of conditions, and don't have demanding requirements. One of the better species for learning isopod keeping while still having something visually appealing. Value: Yellow Zebras offer good value—they're more visually striking than standard species without the price tag or care requirements of exotic Cubaris or rare morphs. A solid choice for building a collection without significant investment.

The Pink Panda King Isopods are an eye-catching species, known for their vibrant pink and white coloration. A rare and unique addition to any collection, these isopods are popular among hobbyists for their distinctive appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Ideal for bioactive enclosures, they thrive in humid environments and play an important role in maintaining the ecosystem by breaking down organic matter. Their captivating look and low maintenance make them a perfect choice for both beginners and experienced isopod enthusiasts. Insight Place of Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Panda King' Maintenance Effort:Easy Ideal Temperature Range: 70℉ - 80℉ General Size:  ~ 15mm Rareness: Low to Medium Humidity Range: 70% - 80% Preferred Diet: Fruit, vegetables, fish food  Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, eggshells Panda King Isopods: Introduction These isopods are generally observed in limestone caves and belong to central and northern parts of Vietnam. These species prefer to be in an environment which is humid. Isopods of length approximately 1.5 cm are seen generally. They play a major role in the ecosystem balancing, by feeding on the decaying plants and rotting wood. They supply nutrients to the soil by consuming the decaying matter, maintaining the balance of required nutrients in soil. Characteristics of Panda King Isopods These critters have black and white colour exoskeletons. They grow up to 1.5 cm in length.  Their striking and adorable features make them one of the most sought-after isopods. They are easy to care for and require minimum maintenance. They are beginner-friendly. They are nocturnal in nature. They breed rapidly once established in their habitat. They are detritivores in nature. It has a soft exoskeleton and is used to feed poison dart frogs and other small animals. Vegetables, greens, and fish food are good for maintaining nutrition. The consumption of calcium for these isopods is a bit higher than other isopod species. Feeding These isopods feed on almost all types of food. They are essentially scavengers and feed on organic waste. However, during confinement in a cage, it is imperative to offer optimal nutrition. They can be supplemented with vegetables, greens, rotten leaves, or even wood. For calcium and protein, dried shrimp, fish food, cuttlebone, and egg shells are great for these species growth and development. Calcium powder is also good to give as a substitute.  Most isopod owners make the mistake of overfeeding the isopods. Overfeeding attracts pests into their enclosure. Therefore, it is important to feed the necessary quantity of food.  Natural Habitat Panda King isopods live in limestone caves and taverns. These species are commonly found in the central and northern parts of Thailand. In this region, caves are abundant. The caves are dark and humid; therefore, they are suitable for the isopods.  Panda King isopods are scavengers. They are also found among rotting leaves, fruits and vegetables. These species like to live in dark areas. They are shy in nature and like to burrow and hide. It is necessary to understand their natural habitat to build an artificial habitat for these isopods. Panda King Isopods: Breeding Panda King isopods are active species ready to reproduce unless acclimated to their surroundings.  Once they adapt to their surroundings, they start producing many offspring.  These isopods have a distinct mating ritual where the male isopods transfer sperm into the female's pleopods. The offspring hatch after six weeks after the eggs are attached to a firm surface. These offspring stay close to their mother, thus forming a small colony. Artificial Habitat of Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods thrive in humid environments. They are native to the tropical climates of Asia and need moisture to stay hydrated. Keep them in a small box to help them acclimate to a new environment. Once they're comfortable, transfer them to a plastic box with ventilation. Use deep bedding, including materials like old wood, dried leaves, and moss, for a cosy habitat.  It is necessary to prevent excess moisture as they may attract pests like mold and fruit flies. To combat this, adding springtails will help keep the environment clean and free of unwanted guests. It's important to keep the humidity right for the well-being of these isopods so they have a comfortable and healthy place to live. So, with proper care and attention to their habitat, you can enjoy the delightful presence of Panda King isopods in your home. Tank Mates for Pink Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods like to live in a highly humid environment. Therefore, pairing them with similar invertebrates that appreciate humidity is best.  It is necessary that tankmates for the isopods should be from the same region as the Panda King. Therefore, invertebrates like snails are the best tank mates in terrarium and vivarium settings. Another species that is suitable to be paired with is springtails. These creatures, when together, will prevent any kinds of pests and will keep the bioactive clean. Preferred Substrate Mixture for Pink Panda King Isopods A perfect substrate blend for Panda King Isopods is one that is deep, and also holds a lot of moisture. Use a small batch of coco coir, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark for the isopods, with the substrate depth reaching approximately 4 inches for burrowing.  Magnolia leaves enhance the habitat further, contributing to moisture retention and serving as excellent shelters for Panda King Isopods and their offspring. To mimic their natural surroundings, incorporate cork bark, dried oak leaves, and other elements into the enclosure. Wooden bark pieces are added to provide hiding spots, and dried leaves are added as food and for aesthetics. Sphagnum moss helps with moisture retention, which is a crucial factor for Panda King Isopods thriving in the environment. Although ventilation is necessary, it should be minimal to maintain the desired humidity gradient within the substrate. It should have both damp and dry areas. For nutrition, add earthworm castings and limestone powder to replicate their native habitat. This all-rounder substrate mix establishes a solid foundation, offering both sustenance and hydration to the isopods. Striking a balance between the various elements encourages natural behaviours and supports the physical health of Panda King Isopods in captivity. It allows them to thrive in an artificial environment that mimics the conditions of their natural habitat.

The famous "hissing isopod" in a striking brick-red colour morph. One of the few isopod species capable of producing audible sounds. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean Basin (Spain, Southern Europe, Western Black Sea coasts) Scientific Name: Armadillo officinalis Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 2cm Rarity: Low Temperature: 18°C to 26°C Humidity: 55% to 70% (low to medium, with gradient) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, soft-bodied plants, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: An Overview Armadillo officinalis is a Mediterranean species found across Southern Europe, from Spain to the western Black Sea coasts. They're one of the most distinctive isopods in the hobby, famous for their ability to produce audible sounds—a behaviour that's earned them the common name "hissing isopods." The Red Brick morph is a colour variant that displays a warm, terracotta-red colouration. Juveniles are born a lighter yellowish-orange shade, with the colour deepening to the characteristic brick-red as they mature into adults. This colour development is one of the rewarding aspects of raising a colony from mixed ages. It's worth noting that Armadillo is a separate genus from Armadillidium, despite the similar names and the fact that both can roll into balls. The Armadillo genus has some distinctive characteristics, including their famous stridulation ability and a somewhat different body shape with a more elongated face. These are genuinely easy isopods to keep. They're hardy, adaptable to various conditions, and breed readily in captivity. The combination of interesting behaviour and striking colour makes the Red Brick morph a popular choice for both beginners and experienced keepers. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Appearance The Red Brick morph displays a rich terracotta to brick-red colouration across the body. This colour intensifies as the isopods mature—juveniles start with a pale yellowish or orange tone that gradually deepens through successive moults. Adults reach approximately 2cm in length, making them a good-sized species that's easy to observe. They have a distinctive body shape compared to many other conglobating species, with a somewhat elongated face that gives them a characterful appearance. Like other members of the Armadillo genus, they can roll into remarkably tight, near-perfect spheres when threatened (conglobation). In fact, A. officinalis is notable for remaining tightly curled for longer than most other rolling species—they seem more cautious and take their time before uncurling, even after the perceived danger has passed. The shell has a sturdy, slightly glossy appearance. When a colony is well-established, watching a group of bright red adults alongside paler juveniles creates an attractive display. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: The Hissing Behaviour The most famous characteristic of A. officinalis is their ability to produce audible sounds. This stridulation—often described as hissing or rattling—is produced when the isopod curls into a ball and rubs its legs (pereopods) against the inner surface of its shell in rapid circular motions. Scientific research has shown this stridulation produces sounds peaking around 9 kHz and appears to function as a secondary defence mechanism. The isopods themselves also respond to these vibrations, moving away from the sound source—suggesting it may serve as an alarm signal within colonies. You're unlikely to hear this sound from small colonies or individual isopods. The effect becomes more noticeable as colony numbers increase. When a larger group is startled, the collective sound of multiple isopods stridulating simultaneously becomes audible to human ears as a subtle rattling or hissing. This behaviour makes A. officinalis genuinely unique among commonly kept isopod species. No other readily available isopod produces sounds in quite the same way. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Basic Care A. officinalis are adaptable isopods that tolerate a range of conditions, though they do have preferences that will help your colony thrive. Temperature: Room temperature suits them well. They're comfortable anywhere from 18°C to 26°C and don't require supplemental heating in typical UK homes. Humidity: This is where care is needed. They prefer low to medium humidity (around 55-70%) and can struggle in constantly wet conditions. High humidity can cause moulting problems. However, they still need access to moisture—dry conditions can be fatal. The key is balance: a humidity gradient with one damp area and plenty of drier space works best. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation is important. Good airflow helps prevent the excessively moist conditions that cause problems, but avoid extremes. Lighting: Low light preferred. Keep the enclosure away from direct sunlight and provide plenty of dark hiding spots. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Feeding A. officinalis have somewhat broader tastes than some isopod species and are known to consume soft-bodied plants alongside the usual detritivore diet. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel) Decaying hardwood pieces White rotting wood Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, sweet potato, cucumber) Oat flakes (they seem particularly fond of these) Soft-bodied plants Fish flakes for protein Occasional fruit Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy shell development and moulting. Provide: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chips Crushed eggshells Calcium powder The calcium requirement is particularly important given that moulting issues can occur in suboptimal conditions. A consistent calcium supply helps ensure successful moults. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Substrate Mix A substrate that balances moisture retention with good drainage suits this species well. Avoid waterlogging, which can cause problems. A suitable mix might include: Organic topsoil or compost as a base (pesticide-free) Decaying hardwood pieces and white rotting wood Leaf litter as a top layer Sphagnum moss in the moist area only Cork bark pieces Limestone chips mixed through for calcium Some keepers include lime in the substrate, which can help buffer acidity and provide calcium. Substrate depth of around 5-7cm allows for burrowing and shelter. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup works well, with attention paid to creating appropriate humidity gradients. Container Size: A 5-6 litre container suits a starter colony. These are reasonably active isopods that appreciate space as the colony grows. Humidity Gradient: Create a distinct moisture gradient. Keep approximately 20-30% of the enclosure damp (with moist sphagnum moss) while the remaining area stays drier. This allows the isopods to regulate their moisture exposure. Hides: Cork bark pieces provide essential hiding spots. These isopods spend considerable time curled up and sheltering, so provide plenty of cover. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation holes or mesh panels. Good airflow is important but avoid excessive drying. Leaf Litter: A generous layer of mixed hardwood leaves provides food and additional shelter. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Breeding A. officinalis are known for prolific breeding once established. They reproduce readily in appropriate conditions. What to Expect: Regular reproduction once the colony settles Good brood sizes Steady colony growth Colour development in juveniles—watching them transition from pale yellow-orange to brick red Colonies typically establish at a moderate pace. They're not the fastest colonisers, but they're reliable breeders that will build up numbers consistently over time. Avoid excessively humid conditions during breeding, as this can interfere with successful moulting of both adults and juveniles. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Behaviour A. officinalis display some distinctive behavioural traits that set them apart from other isopod species. Typical Behaviours: Strong conglobation response—rolling into tight balls when disturbed Remaining curled for extended periods after perceived threats Stridulation (sound production) when rolled up Relatively shy nature with preference for hiding Hurried movement when seeking cover Often observed eating while lying on their backs (particularly oat flakes) Unlike many conglobating species that uncurl relatively quickly, A. officinalis are notably cautious and may stay rolled up for much longer. This defensive behaviour, combined with the stridulation, makes them fascinating to observe. They tend to be more secretive than some Porcellio species, spending considerable time hidden under bark and within the substrate. Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick Isopods: Bioactive Use A. officinalis can work well in bioactive setups, with some considerations. Good for: Temperate and Mediterranean-style enclosures Semi-arid to moderately humid setups Enclosures where low to medium humidity is maintained Reptile setups with appropriate conditions Considerations: Not ideal for very wet tropical setups—humidity issues can cause problems Their harder exoskeleton makes them less suitable as feeder isopods for smaller animals Larger amphibians and reptiles can consume adults; smaller predators may only manage juveniles They'll function as effective cleanup crew members, processing organic waste and leaf litter. Their attractive colouration also adds visual interest to display enclosures. Who Are These Isopods For? Armadillo Officinalis Red Brick isopods suit: Beginners wanting an easy, interesting first species Anyone fascinated by the hissing behaviour Keepers who appreciate watching colour development Those wanting a hardy conglobating species Bioactive enthusiasts with appropriate enclosure conditions They might not suit: Very humid tropical setups—they can struggle with excessive moisture Those seeking feeder isopods—the harder shell makes them less ideal Keepers wanting highly visible, constantly active species—they're quite shy The combination of easy care, interesting behaviour, and attractive colouration makes the Red Brick morph an excellent choice for most keepers. What's Included Each order contains healthy specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony the best start, including juveniles that will develop their adult colouration over time. A care sheet is provided with every order.

Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" is a Thai Cubaris species named for its coffee-toned colouration. The exact shade varies between populations and individuals—some display light brown and cream tones like milky coffee, while others show brighter orange with dark purple, more reminiscent of espresso. Either way, the colour palette is distinctive and attractive. They're larger than many Cubaris species, somewhat hardier than their more demanding relatives, and make engaging display pets for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand, Southeast Asia (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" Common Names: Cappuccino Isopod Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: Up to 22mm (approximately 2cm) Rarity: High Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Calcium (limestone preferred), protein twice weekly Cappuccino Isopods: Introduction Cappuccino isopods emerged from the Thai Cubaris explosion that followed the discovery of Rubber Ducky isopods in limestone caves around 2017. Since then, numerous Cubaris species and morphs have entered the hobby, with Cappuccinos becoming one of the more sought-after varieties. Their name derives from their colouration, which evokes coffee drinks—though descriptions vary. Some sources describe light brown and cream tones (latte-like), while others emphasise bright orange with deep purple (more like a darker roast). This variation may reflect different breeding lines or simply the range of natural variation within the species. Either interpretation produces attractive isopods. Compared to some finicky Cubaris species, Cappuccinos are described as "hardier" and more "resilient to changes in humidity and temperature." They're not beginner isopods—they still require consistent conditions and more attention than Armadillidium or Porcellio—but they're a reasonable step up for keepers with some experience who want to try Cubaris without jumping straight to the most demanding species. Cappuccino Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 22mm—larger than many Cubaris species Rounded body shape with characteristic Cubaris "duck face" Colouration varies: light brown/tan/cream OR bright orange with dark purple White "skirt" around darker body in some descriptions Some individuals display white "ducky face" with coloured "lips" Small eyes on top of head Short legs, four sets of spiracles for respiration Can roll into defensive ball (conglobation) Can make clicking sounds when threatened The size is notable—at up to 22mm, they're on the larger end for Cubaris, making them easier to observe than smaller species. The colour pattern, whatever variation you receive, is distinctive and makes them visually appealing display animals. Behaviour Cappuccino isopods display typical Cubaris behaviour patterns with some distinctions. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal—most active at night when they emerge to feed. You'll see occasional daytime sightings, especially as colony numbers increase, but expect them to be most visible after lights go out. Temperament: Described as "fairly passive" and less easily spooked than some Cubaris species. They're "gentle" and "docile"—good characteristics for observation and handling. Burrowing: They burrow for moisture control and security. This differs from some surface-dwelling species—provide adequate substrate depth (10-15cm minimum) to accommodate this behaviour. Social: Gregarious. They do well in groups and benefit from colony living. Purchase in groups for best establishment success. Shyness: Like many Cubaris, they're shy and reclusive, particularly when newly introduced. As one source notes: "Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much." Higher numbers in the colony lead to more visible activity. Diet Standard Cubaris dietary requirements with emphasis on calcium. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple—always available in abundance) Decaying white-rotted wood (always available) Forest moss Lichen Supplementary foods: Vegetables: squash, radishes, carrots, other organic vegetables Fruits: various (feed in moderation) Commercial isopod foods (Repashy, powdered diets) Fish flakes Dog food (occasionally) Protein: Provide protein twice weekly: Freeze-dried minnows Dried shrimp Fish pellets Dried insects Feed protein on the drier side of the enclosure as it can spoil quickly in humid conditions and attract pests. Calcium (particularly important): Cappuccinos, like many Thai Cubaris, originate from limestone cave environments and are particularly fond of calcium sources: Cuttlebone (quickly devoured when offered) Limestone chunks "Texas Holy Rock" (reported favourite) Crushed eggshells Calcium carbonate powder in substrate Providing limestone mimics their natural cave habitat and supports healthy exoskeleton development. Feeding notes: Avoid overfeeding Remove uneaten fresh foods before spoiling Ensure no pesticide residue on vegetables Good nutrition promotes faster breeding and healthier populations Cappuccino Isopods: Breeding Cappuccinos breed reliably once established, though they're not the fastest reproducers. Breeding characteristics: Slow to establish—may take several months before young appear Once established, breed "prolifically" and reliably Moderate reproduction rate overall Females carry eggs in brood pouch (marsupium) Reality check: One experienced source states breeding difficulty as "Advanced," while others say "Medium" or "Moderate." The consensus is that they're slower to establish than many species but become reliable producers once the colony matures. Patience is required—don't expect rapid population growth initially. Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (high 70s to low 80s°F / 24-28°C) Consistent high humidity (60-80%) Adequate calcium supply Deep substrate for burrowing Abundant food (leaf litter, decaying wood) Minimal disturbance during establishment Avoid large environmental swings Cappuccino Isopods: Habitat Setup Cappuccinos require more attention to setup than beginner species but are manageable for intermediate keepers. Enclosure: Plastic containers or terrariums work well Minimal air holes (to maintain humidity) Shoebox-sized container (approximately 6 quart / 3 gallon minimum) suitable for starter colonies Fair ventilation required—not sealed, but limited holes Ventilation: Medium. They need some airflow but not so much that humidity drops. Balance is key—too much ventilation dries them out, too little causes stagnation. Substrate: Deep substrate is important for their burrowing behaviour: Recommended mix: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss (milled and long-fibre) Forest humus Fine tree fern fibre Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, willow) Orchid bark Depth: Minimum 10-15cm (4-6 inches). Deeper substrates retain moisture longer and support burrowing behaviour. Humidity: 60-80%—high but not excessive: Keep substrate mostly moist but not soggy Some sources recommend "moist side and slightly less moist side" rather than dramatic wet/dry gradient Never let substrate get anywhere close to dry Mist every few days with dechlorinated water Cork bark pieces help retain humidity Critical note: Too much humidity and dampness can cause moulting issues and sudden die-offs. Moist, not wet, is the goal. Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F)—comfortable room temperature to slightly warm: High 70s to low 80s°F is the comfort zone Avoid large temperature swings (can be fatal) Room temperature in heated UK homes generally works Stable conditions more important than hitting exact numbers Décor: Cork bark pieces (they may prefer lotus pods as hideouts) Leaf litter (food and cover) Decaying wood pieces Moss patches Limestone chunks (calcium source and habitat enrichment) Setup philosophy: Aim for half soil, half decaying wood components. Provide plenty of hiding spots and natural botanical items that simulate their wild habitat—this promotes natural behaviours like eating and breeding. Bioactive Use Cappuccinos can work in bioactive setups but have limitations. Strengths: Help reduce organic waste buildup Aid in nutrient recycling Add visual interest (nocturnal activity) Larger size makes them visible when active Limitations: Not the best bioactive cleaners—better species exist for that purpose Shy and nocturnal—you won't see them working during the day Require specific conditions that may not match all bioactive setups Slow breeding means population recovery takes time if predation occurs Best use: Cappuccinos are better suited as display pets than utilitarian cleanup crews. If you want efficient bioactive processing, consider Porcellio or faster-breeding species. Keep Cappuccinos because you enjoy observing them, not primarily for their cleanup utility. Suitable applications: Tropical terrariums where conditions match their needs Display colonies where aesthetics matter Vivariums with compatible inhabitants Suitability Cappuccinos suit intermediate keepers wanting attractive Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with some isopod experience ready to try Cubaris Those wanting larger, more observable Cubaris Display colony enthusiasts Keepers who can maintain consistent conditions Those attracted to coffee-toned colouration Less suited for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Those wanting fast-breeding cleanup crews Keepers unable to maintain stable humidity/temperature Those expecting highly visible daytime activity Care level: They're described as "hardier" and more "resilient" than some Cubaris, but still require consistent conditions without large environmental swings. One source warns: "If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry." The key challenges are: maintaining stable conditions (temperature/humidity swings can be fatal), patience during slow establishment period, and accepting their nocturnal/shy nature. Value: At £55 for 5, £105 for 10, or £200 for 20, Cappuccinos are moderately priced for Cubaris—less expensive than ultra-rare species but more than beginner isopods. The price reflects their desirability, attractive appearance, and the care required to maintain breeding colonies. For keepers wanting an accessible entry point into "designer" Cubaris, they represent reasonable value. What to expect: Expect attractive isopods with coffee-toned colouration that varies between cream/brown and orange/purple depending on the line. Expect them to be primarily nocturnal—you'll see them most after lights go out, with occasional daytime sightings increasing as colony numbers grow. Expect shy behaviour initially, becoming bolder as the colony establishes. Expect slow breeding at first, accelerating once the colony matures (this may take months). Expect to maintain consistent humidity and temperature without major swings. Expect larger Cubaris (up to 22mm) that are easier to observe than smaller species. For keepers who enjoyed success with beginner species and want to explore the diverse world of Thai Cubaris, Cappuccinos offer an appealing combination: attractive appearance, reasonable (not extreme) care requirements, and the engaging behaviours that make Cubaris popular. They're not the easiest isopods, but they reward patient keepers who provide appropriate conditions with reliably breeding colonies of genuinely attractive animals.

Murina Glacier Isopods, also known as Cubaris murina, are considered an excellent entry-level species within the Cubaris genus. Though they lack the vibrant colors or distinctive markings of other species, they are highly valued for their efficiency as bioactive custodians. These isopods are particularly well-suited for terrariums and vivariums, helping maintain a clean and balanced environment. Their adaptability and ease of care make them a popular choice for those new to the hobby. Cubaris Murina Glacier: Synopsis Place of Origin: Indo-Pacific region, North America Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Lifespan: 1-4 years Difficulty level:  Medium Temperature Range: 62℉-83℉ Size: 1 cm Rareness: Medium Humidity Range: 70% -80% Preferred Diet: fungi, bacteria, algae and other detritus Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, bat guano, calcium powder Cubaris Murina: Abstract Murina Glacier Isopods are highly adaptable to a variety of environments. These isopods are primarily found in the Pacific, the Caribbean, and North America. Their scientific name, Cubaris murina, is derived from the Latin words "cube," meaning "to lie," and "marina," which relates to sea creatures. This name reflects their smooth, small bodies, which have often led to them being mistaken for tiny sea organisms. Their ability to thrive in diverse habitats makes them a popular choice for bioactive setups. Characteristics These creatures are muted grey or purple in color with peach or orange spots at the rear end. It has a smooth and small body and is often mistaken as a sea creature due to its appearance. These species are great clean-up crews in terrariums and vivariums. They have a moderate reproduction rate. These isopods are easy to care for and are great for beginners. They are found in multiple types of habitats. Due to this, they are widely sought after. They are the best entry-level species with a forgiving nature. Murina Glacier Isopods: Morphs These species, which have either been cultured or found in the wild, are found in different patterns and colors.  Papaya: They are dull pink and are believed to be an albino version. These isopods are popular among enthusiasts. Glacier: It is an almost completely white variety. They have white eyes, legs, and antennae. Anemone: This isopod is a variety of speckled patterns of orange and grey. Florida Orange: The orange variety of the isopod discovered in the wild in Florida, hence the name. Murina Glacier Isopods: Food  Even Though the isopods are very small in size, their appetite is not very small. Feeding is essential to continue their life cycle. There are better methods than feeding them with random decaying material. The food supplied should be the perfect blend of various materials, ensuring that the isopods get all the required nutrients. The decaying organic matter should be placed in the corner of the container, forming the basis for their feeding. In addition to the organic matter, litters of leaf and decaying wood will help them maintain a healthy condition. Other than the naturally available materials, special supplements are designed to provide the perfect mix of required nutrients for the isopod. Supplying them with these designed foods can help them make healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Glacier: Breeding The two main components for them to breed in abundance are the perfect food with the right amount of nutrients and a comfortable environment. Both can be achieved by using naturally available materials and man-made settings. Reproducing healthy offspring relates to the size and the regular structure.  A study was conducted in 2009 on these species, and it was discovered that they can produce decent-sized broods quickly. This makes them a reliable species for different kinds of terrariums. These species can proliferate in a culture where there is low density compared to a high-density culture. Cubaris Murina: Natural Environment The environment provided by Mother Nature to the isopods is humid in nature. To adjust to the temperature and humidity, they have the ability to burrow themselves inside their living area, which helps them maintain their preferred living conditions. Due to this ability, they are seen in many parts of the world where there is a perfect blend of moist and humid environments. These isopods come out of their burrow whenever they feel the environmental conditions are safe for them. With a large appetite, they will hunt for their food any time of the day. Cubaris Murina Glacier Isopods: Artificial Enclosure Setting It is always difficult to set up an artificially made environment that is 100% comfortable for the isopods. But with the advancements in technology, an environment that can mimic the natural environment can be set up, which can ensure a near-to-comfortable climate for the isopods. These artificial settings are achieved by using humidity controllers and temperature regulators. Based on the sensor feedback, the system adjusts the conditions itself, providing the isopods with a misty environment, almost matching their natural environment. Proper care of the system has to be ensured as a wrong sensor feedback may create a difference in temperature or humidity, resulting in an uncomfortable environment. This will affect the lifespan as well as the ability to reproduce. For an artificial setting, start with a shoebox-size plastic container.  They do not reproduce in a short period of time. Therefore, the same box can be used for a longer period of time. It is to be ensured that sufficient ventilation is provided in the artificially designed environment.  Habitat and Substrate Mix They generally adapt to all kinds of environments. However, their preferred environment is a moist one.  While setting up the artificial environment, it is best to provide a moisture-retaining element for the isopods to have comfortable living conditions.  Placing coconut coir inside their habitat can help mimic their natural environment, as it helps them to burrow inside. In addition, the bark of orchid trees and sphagnum moss are very good elements for locking the moisture inside the enclosure.  Earthworm casting is one of the main sources of nutrients, which will help them to produce healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina: Basic Care Proper care must be provided to culture and maintain these isopods. It is crucial to clean the enclosure regularly. Not maintaining hygiene may attract unwanted pests and affect the isopod's health. While making provision for ventilation, it is to be ensured that mesh is provided to prevent these critters from escaping. Monitor the enclosure and make sure that the humidity and temperature are maintained. Provide supplements to meet their overall nutritional needs. Also, while placing the enclosure, keeping them in a dark place away from sunlight is essential.

Nesodillo sp. "Shiro Utsuri" is a striking black and white isopod from Taiwan that has become popular for both its attractive appearance and ease of care. The name comes from Japanese koi terminology—"Shiro Utsuri" refers to a black koi with white markings, which accurately describes this isopod's bold contrasting pattern. At 1.5-2 cm when fully grown, they're a decent size that makes them easy to observe, and their reputation as prolific breeders makes them a solid choice for keepers wanting to build a colony relatively quickly. A Glimpse Origin: Taiwan Scientific Name: Nesodillo sp. "Shiro Utsuri" Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.5-2 cm Rarity: Low Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 22-26°C (72-79°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying hardwood, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, oyster shell Shiro Utsuri Isopods: Introduction Shiro Utsuri isopods originate from Taiwan and belong to the Nesodillo genus. Their common name borrows from Japanese koi breeding terminology—a Shiro Utsuri koi is a black fish with white patterning, and this isopod's bold black and white colouration follows the same theme. Some keepers also refer to them as having a "samurai" appearance due to this high-contrast colouration. These isopods have earned a good reputation among hobbyists for being beginner-friendly while still offering visual appeal. They're hardy, breed readily, and don't have demanding care requirements. For keepers who want something more interesting than common grey woodlice without the challenges of sensitive exotic species, Shiro Utsuri are a sensible choice. At 1.5-2 cm as adults, they're a respectable size—large enough to observe and appreciate the patterning clearly. Combined with their willingness to breed in captivity, they're well-suited to keepers wanting to establish and grow a colony. Shiro Utsuri Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach 1.5-2 cm in length Bold black and white patterning across the body Predominantly white base colour with black patches and markings Pattern varies between individuals, giving each isopod a somewhat unique appearance Hard, calcified exoskeleton typical of conglobating species Ability to roll into a ball when threatened Smooth, domed body shape Juveniles display the black and white pattern from an early age Behaviour Shiro Utsuri isopods are generally easy-going and adaptable. Activity levels: Once established, they're reasonably active and visible. They'll forage and explore the enclosure, making them more rewarding to observe than species that hide constantly. Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with other isopod species and terrarium inhabitants, earning them a reputation as "peaceful cohabitants." This makes them suitable for mixed cleanup crew setups or community bioactive enclosures. Burrowing: Like many isopod species, they appreciate the ability to burrow and will use hiding spots throughout the enclosure. Providing adequate cover helps them feel secure. Defence: When threatened, they roll into a tight defensive ball—classic pill bug behaviour. Settling in: They typically adapt well to new enclosures without extended settling periods. Compared to more sensitive species, they're relatively unfussy about transition. Diet Shiro Utsuri isopods are detritivores with straightforward dietary needs. Primary foods: Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Decaying hardwood Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato, cucumber Freeze-dried vegetables work well Fish flakes for protein Small amounts of fruit occasionally Calcium: Important for their calcified exoskeletons and healthy moulting. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, or oyster shell as a constant calcium source. Feeding approach: They're not picky eaters. Maintain a base of leaf litter and decaying wood, supplementing with vegetables every few days. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours to prevent mould. Their willingness to eat a variety of foods makes them easy to cater for. Shiro Utsuri Isopods: Breeding This species has a well-deserved reputation as prolific breeders, making them excellent for keepers wanting to grow a colony. Breeding basics: Females carry eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles Breeding rate is relatively fast compared to many species Adults reach reproductive maturity within 6-8 months Brood sizes are good, contributing to steady population growth Conditions for breeding: Maintain humidity in the 70-80% range Stable temperature within preferred range (22-26°C) Adequate calcium for breeding females Sufficient hiding spots Consistent food availability Colony growth: Under good conditions, expect steady and reliable population growth. They're one of the better species for keepers who want to see their colony expand without the frustratingly slow breeding of some exotic species. Beginner suitability: Their prolific breeding and forgiving nature make them frequently recommended as a beginner species. New keepers can learn isopod husbandry while actually seeing results, rather than waiting months for slow-breeding species to establish. Shiro Utsuri Isopods: Habitat Setup Enclosure: A standard plastic container with a secure lid works well. A 10-15 litre container suits a starter colony, with room to expand as numbers grow. They don't require elaborate setups—functionality matters more than aesthetics for the enclosure itself. Substrate: Use a moisture-retentive substrate that supports their humidity requirements: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention Leaf litter worked into the substrate and layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout Substrate depth of 5-8 cm allows for burrowing and helps maintain stable humidity at lower levels. Humidity: These isopods prefer higher humidity than Mediterranean species. Aim for 70-80% humidity. The substrate should remain consistently moist but not waterlogged. Regular misting helps maintain appropriate moisture levels. Unlike some arid-adapted species, Shiro Utsuri don't require a steep dry/wet gradient—they're comfortable with generally humid conditions throughout, though some variation is fine. Ventilation: Low to medium ventilation. Some airflow prevents stagnation and mould, but excessive ventilation will dry out the enclosure and work against the humidity these isopods prefer. Small ventilation holes or limited mesh area is sufficient. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark pieces on the substrate surface Leaf litter coverage Hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches Provide plenty of hiding spots. They'll burrow and shelter under cover, and adequate hiding places help them feel secure and encourage natural behaviour. Temperature: Room temperature works well (22-26°C). They're not demanding regarding temperature and will thrive in normal UK household conditions without supplementary heating in most cases. Bioactive Use Shiro Utsuri isopods work well as cleanup crew in appropriate bioactive setups. Advantages: Peaceful nature allows cohabitation with other species Prolific breeding maintains population levels Good size for functional decomposition work Hardy enough to establish in bioactive environments Scavenging behaviour helps break down organic waste and maintain substrate health Suitable setups: They're best suited to humid bioactive enclosures—tropical or subtropical setups for dart frogs, tree frogs, humid-environment geckos, and similar species. Their humidity requirements align well with many popular bioactive inhabitants. Mixed cleanup crews: Their peaceful temperament means they coexist well with springtails and other isopod species. They won't aggressively outcompete tankmates, making them suitable for diverse cleanup crew combinations. Suitability Shiro Utsuri isopods are excellent for beginners and experienced keepers alike. Good choice for: Beginners wanting an attractive, easy first species Keepers who want to see colony growth without long waits Humid bioactive setups Mixed species or community enclosures Anyone wanting visual interest without demanding care requirements Not ideal for: Arid or low-humidity setups (they need moisture) Keepers specifically wanting slow-breeding, rare species Care level: Low difficulty. They're forgiving of minor husbandry variations, breed reliably, and don't have demanding requirements. One of the easier species to keep successfully, making them ideal for learning isopod husbandry or for keepers who want results without constant attention. Value: Excellent value. They offer attractive appearance and reliable breeding at an accessible price point. A sensible choice for building a collection, starting in the hobby, or adding functional cleanup crew to bioactive setups without significant expense.

Murina Papaya Isopods also known as cubaris Murina is often referred to as entry-level cubaris species. These species don't have any distinct colour or markings, but they are the best bioactive custodians of their genus. They are a natural fit for the terrariums and vivariums.   Cubaris Murina: Synopsis Place of Origin: Indo-Pacific region, North America Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Lifespan: 1-4 years Difficulty level:  Medium Temperature Range: 62℉-83℉ Size: 1 cm Rareness: Medium Humidity Range: 70% -80% Preferred Diet: fungi, bacteria, algae and other detritus Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, bat guano, calcium powder Cubaris Murina: Abstract These isopods adapt to various environments. These isopods are mainly found in the Pacific region, the Caribbean area, and North America. The scientific name "Cubaris murina" is derived from the Latin name "cube," which means "to lie," and "marina," representing a group of mollusks. This name is due to the fact that they are mistaken as little sea creatures and also because of their smooth, small bodies.  Characteristics Papaya isopods have a smooth and small body and is often mistaken as a sea creature due to its appearance. These species are great clean-up crews in terrariums and vivariums. They have a moderate reproduction rate. These isopods are easy to care for and are great for beginners. They are found in multiple types of habitats. Due to this, they are widely sought after. They are the best entry-level species with a forgiving nature.  Little Sea Isopods: Morphs These species, which have either been cultured or found in the wild, are found in different patterns and colors.  Papaya: They are dull pink and are believed to be an albino version. These isopods are popular among enthusiasts. Glacier: It is an almost completely white variety. They have white eyes, legs, and antennae. Anemone: This isopod is a variety of speckled patterns of orange and grey. Florida Orange: The orange variety of the isopod discovered in the wild in Florida, hence the name. Murina Papaya Isopods: Food  Even Though the isopods are very small in size, their appetite is not very small. Feeding is essential to continue their life cycle. There are better methods than feeding them with random decaying material. The food supplied should be the perfect blend of various materials, ensuring that the isopods get all the required nutrients. The decaying organic matter should be placed in the corner of the container, forming the basis for their feeding. In addition to the organic matter, litters of leaf and decaying wood will help them maintain a healthy condition. Other than the naturally available materials, special supplements are designed to provide the perfect mix of required nutrients for the isopod. Supplying them with these designed foods can help them make healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Breeding The two main components for them to breed in abundance are the perfect food with the right amount of nutrients and a comfortable environment. Both can be achieved by using naturally available materials and man-made settings. Reproducing healthy offspring relates to the size and the regular structure.  A study was conducted in 2009 on these species, and it was discovered that they can produce decent-sized broods quickly.  This makes them a reliable species for different kinds of terrariums. These species can proliferate in a culture where there is low density compared to a high-density culture. Cubaris Murina: Natural Environment The environment provided by Mother Nature to the isopods is humid in nature. To adjust to the temperature and humidity, they have the ability to burrow themselves inside their living area, which helps them maintain their preferred living conditions. Due to this ability, they are seen in many parts of the world where there is a perfect blend of moist and humid environments. These isopods come out of their burrow whenever they feel the environmental conditions are safe for them. With a large appetite, they will hunt for their food any time of the day. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Artificial Enclosure Setting It is always difficult to set up an artificially made environment that is 100% comfortable for the isopods. But with the advancements in technology, an environment that can mimic the natural environment can be set up, which can ensure a near-to-comfortable climate for the papaya isopods. These artificial settings are achieved by using humidity controllers and temperature regulators. Based on the sensor feedback, the system adjusts the conditions itself, providing the isopods with a misty environment, almost matching their natural environment. Proper care of the system has to be ensured as a wrong sensor feedback may create a difference in temperature or humidity, resulting in an uncomfortable environment. This will affect the lifespan as well as the ability to reproduce. For an artificial setting, start with a shoebox-size plastic container.  They do not reproduce in a short period of time. Therefore, the same box can be used for a longer period of time. It is to be ensured that sufficient ventilation is provided in the artificially designed environment.   Habitat and Substrate Mix They generally adapt to all kinds of environments. However, their preferred environment is a moist one.  While setting up the artificial environment, it is best to provide a moisture-retaining element for the isopods to have comfortable living conditions.  Placing coconut coir inside their habitat can help mimic their natural environment, as it helps them to burrow inside. In addition, the bark of orchid trees and sphagnum moss are very good elements for locking the moisture inside the enclosure.  Earthworm casting is one of the main sources of nutrients, which will help them to produce healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Basic Care Proper care must be provided to culture and maintain these isopods. It is crucial to clean the enclosure regularly. Not maintaining hygiene may attract unwanted pests and affect the isopod's health. While making provision for ventilation, it is to be ensured that mesh is provided to prevent these critters from escaping. Monitor the enclosure and make sure that the humidity and temperature are maintained. Provide supplements to meet their overall nutritional needs. Also, while placing the enclosure, keeping them in a dark place away from sunlight is essential.  

Armadillidium Granulatum White Pearl Isopods are an extraordinary species known for their striking pale and pearlescent appearance. Unlike the typical yellow-spotted Spanish Yellow morph, the Pearl variety showcases a softer, more uniform light coloration that makes them highly unique and desirable among collectors. These isopods are hardy and adapt well to artificial habitats, making them a popular choice for enthusiasts. With their easy care and beautiful appearance, they stand out as a favourite in many bioactive setups.   Armadillidium Granulatum White Pearl Isopods: Insight Common Name: Spanish Yellow Isopod Origin: Spain Size: 2.5 cm Difficulty level: low Temperature: 64℉ to 82℉ Rarity:Uncommon Humidity: 75% to 80% Favourite Food: Repashy bug burger, leaf litter Supplements: Cuttlefish bone   Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Introduction Armadillidium Granulatum isopods are one of the largest isopods. They settle into new environments easily and are easy to breed. The yellow spots on the exoskeleton are unique, and they are different for each isopod.    These critters are indigenous to Spain and can be found in, among others, wet environments like fallen leaves, rocks, carks, etc. They are hardy and quite easy to take care of in captivity and are a great addition to terrariums.   Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Characteristics and Traits They have a textured carapace; therefore, they are also known as Granulated Pill isopods. These roly-polies have soft shells and are used as clean-up crews. Their spots are unique in each isopod. They are semi-aquatic creatures and can be grown in terrariums and paludariums.   They have humps behind their body called "uropods". They help in movement, especially when they feel threatened. It is highly prolific in nature and breeds very early.  Easy to maintain and are child-friendly. They are omnivores, docile and easy to care for. They are from the southwestern part of Europe and are commonly found in gardens, forests, grasslands and urban areas.    Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Morphs The Armadillidium Granulatum is commonly seen in dark colour with bright yellow spots. However, there are various morphs for this species. They are the following: Armadillidium Granulatum (lemon): has a higher yellow expression than the dark colour with a brown background. Armadillidium Granulatum (white pearl): rare albino morph of the regular Armadillidum Granulatum.    Armadillidium Granulatum white pearl Isopods: Diet Armadillidum Granulatum feeds on pretty much all types of food. They are scavengers and feed on detritus, like decaying plants, fungi, roots, and algae. They also feed on dead insects and other invertebrates.    When breeding in a closed enclosure, it is important to provide a balanced diet. Feeding greens, veggies, and fruits helps to maintain its health. Shredded shrimp and oyster shells are provided for calcium and protein. Repashy bug burger is given as an alternative to traditional food, which helps balance all nutrients.     Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Offspring Armadillidium Granulatum is highly prolific and produces offspring before reaching adulthood.  It is expected to find small broods along with these isopods who are sub-adults. They produce a large number of litters. The mating of these species is simple. After the mating ritual, the male will deposit spermatozoa into the female's pouch. The female stores them till they are ready to produce offspring. Once the development is complete, the female deposits them in pouches. This later produced up to 40 youngs per brood.  These species can reproduce without their mate. The females that produce offspring without mating will be born as clones.   Armadillidium Granulatum white pearl Isopods: Basic Care Here are the following tips and instructions to provide basic care for Armadillidium Granulatum isopods.  For the isopods, provide a closed terrarium with a moist substrate made of coco peat or peat moss. Mist twice a day, and it is essential to maintain humidity around 75% to 80%. Keep live plants and organic materials in the enclosure. Keep ⅓ of the enclosure moist and leave the rest arid.  Use a glass or a plastic container for breeding the isopods. Provide holes for ventilation to prevent excess humidity. Avoid keeping the isopod box under direct sunlight. Add springtails to prevent and mitigate moulds. Cork bark, lotus pods, coconut halves and egg cartons to create hiding spots for the isopods. Provide calcium and protein-rich food for healthy offspring and moulting. Add various types of moss to serve both as a snack as well as a hiding place for the isopods.   Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Natural Habitat The natural environment of the Armadillidium Granulatum is typically cold, with a lot of decayed food and hiding areas. These species are nocturnal, and they hide under the soil during the daytime. In the wild, these species form clusters under rocks and wooden barks. This is done to retain their body moisture and to ward off predators.    It is necessary to understand the natural environment of Armadillidium Granulatum isopods so that it can be replicated in the artificial habitat setting.    Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Artificial Setting The method of setting up an artificial setup for the isopods should be done in a plastic shoebox tub. Providing a lid for the tubs adds safety to the enclosure. Making a series of holes on the sides of the container will help attain healthy flow and control the humidity inside the enclosure.    Providing a substrate of 1-3 inches (4 in for burrowing species) will provide a proper foundation or base for the habitat. Isopods prefer deep layers and like to feel safe. Add sphagnum Moss and lots and lots of leaf litter, along with pieces of wood or cork bark, to help provide them with a better environment.    It is important to maintain a temperature of around 75℉ and a moisture gradient of around 75% to create an optimal environment for the isopods to live in the artificial setting.    Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Substrate Mixture Making a high quality substrate mixture is crucial. As the Armadillidium Granulatum isopods are humidity-loving creatures, one must offer a suitable substrate mix.   The ABG substrate mix is a combination of charcoal, orchid bark, sphagnum moss, tree fern fibre and peat moss. They are very much suited for tropical terrariums as well as isopod substrate mix. It helps maintain moisture without trapping water for proper drainage, thus creating an ideal environment for isopod and springtail colonies.   Making a thick base creates a stable foundation for the isopod enclosure. This, along with adding wood bark, leaf fodder, and protein supplements, creates a suitable environment for the isopods to thrive. 

Armadillidium genus species of isopods are big and unique because they can curl into a ball and protect their soft bellies from predators if attacked. This feature makes them a pet choice, precisely Frontetriangulum Orange, because of their beautiful coloration and moderate care needs. Originally found in Corfu, Greece, they are relatively rare but can be found in the pet trade if you have good connections. Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Corfu, Greece Scientific Name: Armadillidium sp. Difficulty: Easy Rarity: Uncommon Temperature: 21-27°C Size: Up to 1.8 cm Humidity: 70-80% Favourable Foods: Decaying plant matter, fruit, fish flakes, and dog biscuits.  An Overview Among other isopods found in Corfu, Greece, Frontetriangulum Orange is more popular mainly because of its vibrant orange coloration, which is rare in different species. As far as their care requirements are concerned, Frontetriangulum Orange is suitable for both entry-level and experienced keepers as long as they do everything correctly and do not mess up their habitat. They grow up to 1.8 cm in size, which is considered big in the isopod world. Therefore, you need a spacious enclosure for them to live and move around freely. Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods: Basic Care We have provided a few care tips for your isopods: Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods are not used to temperature changes and require a stable environment where they can live stress-free and without harm. They prefer high humidity levels up to 70-80% because it is crucial for their development, so unless you provide the same, they can have molting issues. They need good airflow in their enclosure, so using a container with tiny holes is a good idea. This offers proper ventilation and also prevents mold growth. You should clean the terrarium and add fresh food regularly so your isopods have a healthy space to live and eat whenever they need to. Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods: Feeding Feeding Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods is easy as long as you understand their needs and give them a balanced diet to feed on. Not different from other isopods, they, too, prefer eating organic matter like decaying leaves, plant matter, fruits, and veggies that are healthy and fulfill their nutritional requirements. Fish flaked or dog biscuits make them belly-happy but give them in a controlled portion. Do not ignore their calcium sources like crushed eggshells or cuttlebone as it is essential for their exoskeleton and overall well-being. Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour The most exciting thing is the bright orange coloration that makes them unique and stands out from other species. Growing up to 1.8 cm, Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods are bigger than others and perfect for observation without being too tiny to handle Their body is smooth and round in shape allowing them to roll into a tight ball if threatened or danger is near. They are more active at night and come out to feed and explore their surroundings when there are no disturbances. Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods: Habitat Setting up a habitat for Frontetriangulum Orange isopods is not difficult if you know what is correct and what needs to be done. You can use a small plastic container and add both moist and dry areas so they can have an ideal habitat to live and reproduce. For hiding spots, leaf litter, bark pieces, and moss are great choices as they encourage natural behavior and give them a safe place to hide and rest. Frontetriangulum Orange Isopods: Substrate Mix Do not take the importance of the good substrate mix granted and ensure to feed your isopods a balanced mix of everything important for their health. As you may have read extensively about creating a perfect substrate mix, it is better to stick to the easiest and basic option to not expose too much to them. With a blend of ingredients like organic topsoil, leaf litter, sphagnum moss, and coconut fiber, you will be good to go in retaining moisture and keeping humidity levels stable. 

Isopods enthusiasts and hobbyists have always been intrigued by Amber Firefly isopods, mainly because of their unique appearance. In comparison to other isopods, these isopods have a striking appearance. The striking amber colour of their body resembles a firefly’s glow. This is one reason hobbyists are so interested in these isopods. These are also not a difficult isopod to care for  A Glimpse Origin: Central and South America Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Moderate Size: 10 to 18 mm Rarity: Moderately Rare Temperature: 22°C to 28°C Humidity: 60% to 75% Favourite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables An Overview Amber Firefly isopods are unique. These small, land-dwelling crustaceans are known for their beautiful amber colour, which sets them apart from other isopod species. The best thing about having them as pets is that you don’t have to put in much effort to care for them. Unlike other isopods, Amber Firefly isopods don’t require intensive care. Well, this makes them an ideal choice for beginners with less knowledge about isopods. Firefly isopods belong to the cubaris genus, cited as isopods that thrive in tropical climates. Despite their name, Amber Firefly isopods don’t emit light like fireflies. But their amber-coloured exoskeleton is so vibrant that they tend to catch attention even in dimly lit settings. One thing to know about these isopods is that they feed on decomposing organic matter, which makes them excellent cleaners for vivariums and terrariums. These detritivores are native to Central and South America, where they live in a healthy and balanced ecosystem. Basic Care Caring for Amber Firefly isopods is easy. If you have decided to keep these tiny creatures as your pet, you should follow these instructions to provide the best care. Amber Firefly isopods thrive in warm environments. Their ideal temperature range is between 22°C and 28°C. So, make sure to maintain the right temperature inside the terrarium. To keep your Amber Firefly isopods happy and healthy, you should maintain the humidity between 60% and 70%. Using a misting bottle makes it easier to do this. When using the substrate mix for your isopods, make sure it remains damp at all times. However, don’t add too much water, as this can lead to mould growth and is not good for your isopods. Even though Amber Firefly isopods are tiny creatures, they need enough space to move around. To accommodate a small colony of isopods, it is recommended that you get a 10-gallon container or plastic bin. When choosing an enclosure for your isopods, it is important to ensure proper ventilation. After all, they need air to breathe and thrive. If required, you can create additional holes on the sides of the terrarium. Feeding As mentioned before, Amber Fireflies are detritivores, so you can feed them decomposing organic matter. All you have to do is provide the right amount at the right time in their enclosure. Amber Firefly isopods love eating leaf litter, so you can provide them with dried leaves like oak or other hardwood trees. You can easily get these types of leaves outside your home. Just make sure that they are pesticide-free. Another food item you can give to your isopods is decaying wood. For those unversed, it makes an important part of their diet, so you shouldn’t skip it at any cost. Amber Firefly isopods also eat vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, and zucchini so that you can give them small pieces of these foods. In addition to all these items, adding cuttlebone, fish flakes, and calcium powder to their diet is a good idea. This is essential for the growth of their exoskeleton. However, it would help if you kept in mind not to overfeed your isopods because that can lead to issues. Amber Firefly Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour You can easily recognise Amber Firefly isopods because of their stunning amber-coloured exoskeleton. Their unique colouration is appealing and makes them stand apart from other isopods. Many isopods are brown or grey. But Amber Firefly features a striking amber colouration. However, their appearance may vary depending on environmental factors. As far as the size is concerned, Amber Firefly isopods can grow up to 10-18 mm, making them medium-sized compared to other isopods. If you look closely at their body, you will notice the segmentation. They have seven pairs of legs, which allows them to move around quickly when disturbed. In terms of behaviour, Amber Firefly isopods are shy and peaceful. They spend most of their time hiding under decaying wood and leaf litter. Also, they prefer dark, damp environments as they don’t like bright light much. Since they are social creatures, they want to live in colonies with other isopods. Amber Firefly Isopods: Habitat The best way to keep Amber Firefly isopods is to get a terrarium or vivarium. You can use the enclosure entirely or put them in a bioactive setup with other species like amphibians or reptiles. It is recommended that your isopods be kept in a plastic or glass enclosure with proper ventilation and enough space to move around. Like other isopods, Amber Firefly isopods require hiding spots, so you can use leaf litter, cork rounds, and bark to make them feel secure. It would help if you ensured that their enclosure always remains moist. Amber Firefly Isopods: Substrate Mix For Amber Firefly isopods, coco coir can be used as the base substrate because it retains moisture better than other materials. If you cannot find coco coir, use peat moss. This moisture-retaining material adds a natural texture to the substrate. In addition to the base substrate material, leaf litter and decaying wood are also important. These provide a natural food source and a hiding place for your isopods. Combining these materials can create the perfect environment for your tiny pets. Providing them with an environment similar to their natural habitat is important. This way, you can watch your isopods grow and thrive.

Cubaris sp. "Miyako" (also sold as Iriomotensis "Miyako" or Japanese Red Edge) is a visually striking isopod from Miyako Island in southern Japan. Their dark body contrasted with vivid reddish-orange skirting and antennae makes them immediately recognisable. Native to the limestone forests of their island home, they share care requirements typical of Cubaris species—high humidity, limited ventilation, and calcium-rich substrates. What sets Miyako apart from many Cubaris is their relative hardiness and more accessible price point, making them a reasonable entry into the Cubaris genus for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Miyako Island, Japan Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Miyako" (sometimes listed as Cubaris iriomotensis) Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.2-1.5 cm Rarity: Medium to High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, calcium powder Cubaris sp. Miyako: Introduction Miyako Island is a limestone island in the Okinawa Prefecture of southern Japan, characterised by subtropical forests with high humidity and abundant decaying vegetation. The isopods from this island have adapted to these warm, humid conditions with calcium-rich soil—requirements that translate directly into captive care. The taxonomy of these isopods remains somewhat debated. They're sometimes formally described as Cubaris iriomotensis, though classification discussions continue in the hobby. For practical purposes, "Miyako" identifies this specific locale regardless of the exact species designation. Miyako isopods are sometimes confused with Cubaris murina "Red Edge" due to similar colouration. While both display reddish-orange edging, they're distinct populations with slightly different appearances upon close inspection. If you're familiar with one, you'll notice differences in the other. Compared to some premium Cubaris species, Miyako offer attractive colouration at a more accessible price point. They're not the easiest Cubaris to breed prolifically, but they're hardier than some of the more demanding species, making them a sensible stepping stone for keepers wanting to try Cubaris without immediately jumping to the most challenging (and expensive) options. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.2-1.5 cm Dark, almost black body colouration Striking reddish-orange colouration on the skirting (edges of each segment) Reddish-orange antennae matching the skirt colouration Smooth, glossy carapace with attractive sheen Capable of conglobation (rolling into a ball) though they don't do so as readily as some species Compact, rounded body shape typical of Cubaris The colour contrast between the dark body and vivid orange edging is genuinely eye-catching. Under good lighting, the glossy carapace adds to their visual appeal. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Miyako display typical Cubaris behaviours with some notable characteristics. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will venture out during the day in established colonies. They're more likely to be visible in dim lighting conditions. Conglobation: While capable of rolling into a defensive ball, Miyako don't curl up as readily as some other isopods. They're described as relatively "fearless" compared to more skittish species, often continuing their activities rather than immediately rolling when disturbed. Burrowing: They're active burrowers and enjoy digging into substrate. This behaviour is important to accommodate—shallow substrate frustrates their natural instincts. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They cluster together comfortably and show no aggression toward each other or other species. Stress responses: While hardier than some Cubaris, they're still sensitive to environmental changes. Sudden fluctuations in humidity or temperature can cause stress. Minimise handling and avoid frequent enclosure disturbances. Diet Miyako isopods have dietary requirements typical of Cubaris species, with emphasis on calcium and protein. Primary foods: Decaying hardwood (essential base food) Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting wood in various stages of decay Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato Occasional fruits in small amounts Fish flakes or pellets for protein Dried shrimp Mushrooms (dried or fresh) Calcium requirements: Higher than many species. Their native limestone island environment means they're adapted to calcium-rich conditions. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Inadequate calcium leads to moulting problems and poor health. Protein requirements: Also elevated compared to some species. Regular protein supplementation through fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar sources supports healthy growth and successful breeding. Feeding approach: Maintain a constant supply of leaf litter and decaying wood. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources every few days. Offer small portions initially and observe consumption to avoid overfeeding and potential pest attraction. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Breeding Miyako isopods breed reasonably well in captivity, though they're not as prolific as some beginner species. Breeding difficulty: Medium. They're not the fastest breeders, but with proper conditions, colonies grow steadily. Don't expect explosive population growth—Cubaris generally reproduce more slowly than Porcellio or Armadillidium species. Breeding requirements: Stable high humidity (70-80%) Consistent warm temperatures (22-26°C ideal for breeding) Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein in diet Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Brood characteristics: Females carry developing young in their marsupium and release fully formed juveniles. Brood sizes are moderate. Colony establishment: Starting with a group of 10+ individuals provides the best foundation for a breeding colony. This ensures genetic diversity and a good chance of having both sexes represented. Patience is required—Cubaris colonies develop over months rather than weeks. Tips for success: Stability is key. Avoid frequent substrate changes, temperature fluctuations, or other disturbances. Once conditions are right, let the colony establish without interference. Checking constantly and digging through substrate to count individuals causes stress that inhibits breeding. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid, limestone forest environment. Enclosure: A plastic container or glass terrarium with limited ventilation. Unlike species requiring airflow, Cubaris need humidity retention. A container with minimal ventilation holes or a glass enclosure with restricted airflow works well. Starting size of 6-10 litres suits a starter colony, with larger enclosures for growing populations. If using a glass display enclosure, ensure it retains humidity effectively. The ability to observe these attractive isopods is a genuine benefit of glass, but humidity management becomes the priority. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—these are active burrowers. Provide 10-15cm (4-6 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout Crushed limestone or calcium powder (generous amounts—10% or more) Leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for moisture retention The calcium content is particularly important given their limestone island origins. Don't skimp on limestone or calcium supplements in the substrate mix. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-80%. These are not isopods that tolerate dry conditions: Maintain consistently moist (not waterlogged) substrate Use sphagnum moss patches to hold moisture Mist regularly to maintain humidity Provide a moisture gradient with slightly drier and wetter areas Limited ventilation helps retain humidity Monitor humidity levels, especially in warm weather when evaporation increases. Dry conditions stress Cubaris quickly. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Unlike Mediterranean Porcellio species, Cubaris from humid Asian environments need restricted airflow. Too much ventilation drops humidity to harmful levels. Small ventilation holes or gaps rather than mesh lids work better. Balance is needed—some air exchange prevents stagnation and mould, but prioritise humidity retention over airflow. Lighting: They prefer dim conditions. Avoid bright, direct lighting on the enclosure. Subdued lighting or positioning away from direct light sources keeps them comfortable and more likely to be active and visible. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark sections Limestone pieces (functional and aesthetic) Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Egg cartons or coconut shells as additional hides Provide multiple hiding options throughout. Their burrowing nature means much activity happens below the surface, but surface hides encourage visible activity. Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in most UK homes works during warmer months; supplemental heating may be needed in winter to maintain optimal conditions. Bioactive Use Cubaris sp. Miyako can function in bioactive setups meeting their humidity requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog enclosures Tropical gecko habitats Any high-humidity bioactive system Advantages: Attractive appearance adds visual interest Effective decomposers in humid environments Peaceful coexistence with other cleanup crew species Interesting behaviour to observe Considerations: Not suitable for arid or semi-arid setups Slower breeding than standard cleanup crew species Higher value than typical bioactive isopods Require consistent high humidity that not all setups provide Less ideal for: Dry or Mediterranean-style enclosures Setups with significant humidity fluctuation Situations requiring rapid population growth Budget cleanup crew applications Suitability Cubaris sp. Miyako suit keepers ready to move beyond beginner species into the Cubaris genus. Good choice for: Keepers with basic isopod experience wanting to try Cubaris Those maintaining humid tropical setups Collectors seeking attractive species at accessible prices Bioactive enthusiasts with high-humidity enclosures Anyone wanting visually striking isopods without premium Cubaris prices Not ideal for: Complete beginners (start with P. scaber or similar first) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers wanting rapid colony growth Those unable to maintain consistent humidity Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're among the more forgiving Cubaris species, but still require attention to humidity and substrate depth that beginner species don't demand. Keepers comfortable maintaining stable humid conditions will find them straightforward. Those accustomed to hardy, dry-tolerant species may need to adjust their approach. Compared to other Cubaris: More accessible than premium species like Rubber Ducky or Panda King in both price and difficulty. They offer genuine Cubaris appeal—the colouration, the behaviour, the care requirements—without the steep learning curve and cost of the most demanding species. A sensible choice for testing whether Cubaris keeping suits you before investing in rarer options. Expectations: Expect attractive, interesting isopods that reward proper care with steady (not explosive) colony growth. Their colouration genuinely impresses, and their behaviour—particularly the burrowing and relative boldness—adds interest beyond just visual appeal. Don't expect them to thrive with neglect or fluctuating conditions, but do expect success with consistent, appropriate husbandry.

If you are a fan of unique pets or love discovering nature’s tiny wonders, Rubber Bee isopods will surely grab your attention because they are colorful and lovely. With their striking appearance and armored bodies, they stand apart from other species and give you a chance to own a pet so rare that you cannot find it in the wild anywhere else but Thailand, the origin country. Rubber Bee Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Rarity: Rare Difficulty Level: Moderate Temperature: 21-27°C Size: Up to 15 mm Humidity: 70-80% Favorite Foods: Rotting wood, Decaying leaf litter, cork bark, lichen, moss, and gammarus shrimp An Overview Rubber Bees otherwise named as Rubber Ducky isopods are small, colorful creatures native to Thailand. Popular for the yellow-and-black markings on their bodies, it also sets them apart from other species in the region. For being a land ispods, the Rubber Bee has moderate care requirements, and it means that it need of more attention than entry-level species and need an experienced care-taker.  To have them as your pet translates to hard work and start with creating a bioactive terrarium followed with an ideal environment mimicking their natural habitat in the wild. These isopods are colorful and fun to watch, making them a great addition to any setup. Rubber Bee Isopods: Basic Care Here are some basic care tips to get you started with your journey as a keeper: Like other isopods, Rubber Bees cannot tolerate high temperatures and may become ill if the temperature is not kept between 21 °C and 27°C, the ideal range for their survival. Since they need high humidity, you should mist the enclosure regularly to prevent it from becoming excessively dry. Adding plenty of hiding spots can make the setup more comfortable. This encourages natural behavior and gives your isopods a place to rest and seek cover. Make sure there is proper airflow within the enclosure. Otherwise, your isopods will struggle to breathe and even suffocate. Rubber Bee Isopods: Feeding Since Rubber Bee Isopods are scavengers, they eat dead plants, old wood, and fallen leaves, so you must include all that in their diet in captivity. Feeding them is not a dreadful task and a combination of dried leaves, pieces of rotting wood, and special isopod foods sold in pet stores to balance their diet is indeed the best. They also love occasional treats like slices of carrots, cucumbers, or fish flakes, but make sure not to overfeed them, or else it will harm their health. Rubber Bee Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour Rubber Bee Isopods are tiny but striking, mainly because of their black bodies and bright yellow bands that make them look like little bees. Their shell is also soft and flexible, unlike any other species. They are pretty much social in nature and like to socialize in their colony, but you won’t see them before night because, during the daytime, they hide and rest underneath the leaf litter. They love to burrow in the soil and hide under leaves or wood, which is why you need to add plenty of substrates so they can carry on with their natural behavior without constraints. Rubber Bee Isopods: Habitat When creating the perfect habitat, you must mimic their natural environment so they can thrive in moist, shady places and have many hiding spots to seek cover. Only opt for the terrarium that has holes in the lid which ensures the proper airflow. Check on the humidity level as it is crucial as well. To maintain the same, mist the enclosure regularly and avoid placing it in direct sunlight because it can dry out the habitat quickly. Rubber Bee Isopods: Substrate Mix A good substrate mix can hold moisture and contains 50% organic topsoil, 25% coconut fiber, and 25% leaf litter, but without any fertilizer or harsh chemicals. Otherwise, your isopods can fall sick or even die. You can also add small pieces of rotting wood and crushed oyster shells so they can have their calcium fill and their exoskeleton can develop better and stronger.

Cubaris sp. "Giant Mandarin" is a larger Thai Cubaris species with bright orange colouration and distinctive red eyes. The name is apt—they're approximately three times larger than the common Cubaris murina "Mandarin" morph, reaching around 17mm as adults. They're believed to be related to Cubaris sp. "Giant Marina," sharing similar size characteristics but with their own orange pigmentation. For keepers wanting the appealing Cubaris "duck face" look in a more substantial package, Giant Mandarins deliver. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Giant Mandarin" Common Names: Giant Mandarin Isopod Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: Up to 17mm Rarity: Uncommon Temperature: 22-28°C (72-82°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, fruits, vegetables, decaying wood Supplements: Protein (twice weekly), calcium Giant Mandarin Isopod: Introduction Cubaris species have taken the isopod hobby by storm over the past few years, particularly since the discovery of the famous Rubber Ducky isopod in Thai limestone caves in 2017. Giant Mandarins are part of this wave of Southeast Asian Cubaris that combine interesting appearance with the characteristic rounded "duck face" that makes the genus so appealing. The "Giant" in the name refers to their size relative to smaller Cubaris morphs—at 17mm, they're substantial for the genus but not truly giant compared to species like Porcellio magnificus. They're roughly three times larger than the common Cubaris murina "Mandarin," which makes them easier to observe and gives them more visual presence in an enclosure. Their origin appears to be Thailand, possibly isolated from Cubaris sp. "Giant Marina." Like most Cubaris, they appreciate higher humidity, deep substrate for burrowing, and a protein-supplemented diet. They're not the most demanding Cubaris species, but they're not as forgiving as beginner isopods either—moderate care is required. Giant Mandarin Isopod: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 17mm in length Bright tangerine-orange body colouration Distinctive red eyes (a striking feature) Characteristic Cubaris "duck face" with rounded head Chunky, robust body shape Can roll into a ball (conglobation) when threatened Colour may intensify with age and proper nutrition The red eyes are particularly notable—they contrast attractively against the orange body and make identification straightforward. The orange colouration ranges from lighter tangerine to deeper orange depending on individual, age, and diet. Behaviour Giant Mandarins display typical Cubaris behaviour patterns. Activity patterns: Active throughout day and night, but most visible during evening and nighttime hours. Like most Cubaris, they're often described as "shy" but become bolder as colony numbers increase. Burrowing: Semi-fossorial—they spend considerable time burrowed into substrate but also forage through leaf litter and under bark. Provide adequate substrate depth (10-15cm) to accommodate this behaviour. Conglobation: They can roll into balls when threatened, typical of many isopod species. Social behaviour: Gregarious. They aggregate in favoured hiding spots under cork bark and in substrate pockets. Higher numbers lead to more visible activity. Climbing: Capable climbers. Some Cubaris species can climb smooth vertical surfaces, so secure lids with fine mesh are sensible. Response to disturbance: Either conglobate or exhibit rapid escape responses, quickly scuttling to safety. Diet Giant Mandarins have dietary needs typical of Cubaris species, with particular emphasis on protein. Primary foods: Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, birch, maple) Decaying white-rotted wood Forest moss and lichens Supplementary foods: Sweet fruits (apples, oranges, mango—particularly enjoyed) Vegetables: sweet potato, carrot, squash, courgette Commercial isopod foods Protein: Cubaris species have higher protein requirements than many isopods. Offer protein sources twice weekly: Fish flakes or pellets Freeze-dried shrimp or minnows Dried bloodworms Reptile shed skin Adequate protein helps prevent cannibalism and supports healthy breeding. Calcium: Provide cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell. Limestone is particularly appropriate given that many Cubaris originate from limestone cave environments. Feeding approach: Leaf litter should form the base of their diet—keep it available at all times. Supplement with vegetables, fruits, and protein. Remove uneaten fresh foods before they mould. They seem particularly fond of sweeter foods. Giant Mandarin Isopod: Breeding Giant Mandarins breed at a fair rate once established, though not as prolifically as some species. Breeding basics: Reproduction rate: Fair (not fast, not slow) Growth rate: Normal to slow Females carry eggs in brood pouch Stable conditions encourage breeding Establishment period: Like many Cubaris, they may take time to establish and begin breeding at a meaningful rate. Patience is required—don't expect rapid population growth initially. Tips for breeding success: Maintain stable temperature (22-28°C) Keep humidity consistent (60-80%) Provide adequate protein Minimise disturbance Ensure deep substrate for burrowing Provide ample hiding spots Brood size: Moderate brood sizes typical of Cubaris species. Population growth is steady rather than explosive once the colony establishes. Giant Mandarin Isopod: Habitat Setup Cubaris require more attention to setup than beginner species. Enclosure: A 6-quart container works for starter colonies, but larger setups (12+ quart) better accommodate their burrowing behaviour and allow the colony to establish. Plastic storage containers with modified ventilation are standard. Secure lids are necessary as they can climb. Ventilation: Low to medium. Cubaris need good airflow despite requiring high humidity—stagnant air can be problematic. Cross ventilation (holes on opposite sides) works well. Cover ventilation holes with fine mesh to prevent escapes and keep out pests. Substrate: Deep substrate is important for Cubaris—aim for 10-15cm (4-6 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as base (pesticide-free) Forest humus mixed in Sphagnum peat moss for moisture retention Decaying white-rotted wood pieces (substantial proportion—15%+) Crushed limestone mixed throughout (10%) Leaf litter layered on top The limestone is particularly relevant as many Cubaris originate from limestone environments. It provides calcium and may help replicate natural conditions. Humidity: 60-80%—consistently moist but not waterlogged: Keep approximately one-third of enclosure consistently moist with sphagnum moss Mist the moist section 2-3 times weekly Allow remaining area to be moderately humid but not wet Substrate should feel like a wrung-out sponge in moist areas Monitor carefully—Cubaris are sensitive to both desiccation and overly wet conditions Temperature: 22-28°C (72-82°F). Consistent warmth is more important than hitting exact numbers. Avoid temperature swings, particularly during moulting periods. Room temperature in heated UK homes generally works, but cooler rooms may need supplemental heating in winter. Décor: Cork bark pieces (they love hiding underneath) Leaf litter (essential—forms bulk of diet) Decaying wood pieces Sphagnum moss patches in moist areas Bioactive Use Giant Mandarins can work in bioactive setups but require consideration. Suitable applications: Tropical bioactive vivariums with high humidity Dart frog enclosures (though they may be too large for smaller frogs to eat) Display terrariums Humid reptile setups Strengths: Attractive orange colouration Visible size Effective decomposers Interesting behaviour Considerations: Require higher humidity than many bioactive setups provide Need deep substrate for burrowing Moderate care requirements mean less tolerance for suboptimal conditions Not as prolific as Porcellio or Armadillidium—may not sustain population under heavy predation Higher protein needs—may struggle if only organic waste is available Best approach: If using in bioactive setups, establish the colony separately first, then introduce once numbers are sufficient. Supplement their diet even in bioactive systems to maintain the colony. Tank Mates Compatible with appropriate invertebrates and vivarium inhabitants. Compatible: Other isopod species (though keeping Cubaris separately prevents potential hybridisation issues) Springtails (beneficial—they complement each other) Small snails As cleanup crew for: Dart frogs (smaller frogs won't eat adults; larger frogs may) Day geckos Small skinks Other humid-environment reptiles and amphibians Note: Their moderate breeding rate means heavy predation may deplete the population. They work better as cleanup crews than as feeders. Suitability Giant Mandarins suit keepers with some isopod experience who want attractive Cubaris. Good choice for: Intermediate keepers stepping up from beginner species Those wanting Cubaris with more visual presence than smaller species Keepers who appreciate the orange/red-eye colour combination Display colony enthusiasts Humid bioactive setup cleanup crews Less suited for: Complete beginners (start with something more forgiving) Arid or low-humidity setups Those wanting fast-breeding feeder colonies Keepers who prefer hands-off, low-maintenance species Care level: Moderate. Easier than some demanding Cubaris species, but not as forgiving as Porcellio or Armadillidium. Requires attention to humidity, temperature stability, and protein supplementation. Success depends on providing consistent conditions and understanding their needs. Value: At £30 for 5 (with bulk pricing available), they're reasonably priced for a Cubaris species. Not cheap, but not premium Rubber Ducky pricing either. The combination of larger size, attractive colouration, and red eyes makes them visually interesting without requiring exotic-species budgets. What to expect: Expect attractive orange isopods with distinctive red eyes that spend considerable time burrowed or hidden but emerge to forage, particularly in evening hours. Expect moderate breeding once established—not explosive population growth, but steady increases over time. Expect to provide more consistent care than beginner species require. Their larger size compared to smaller Cubaris morphs makes them more satisfying to observe, and the colour combination is genuinely appealing. They reward keepers who provide appropriate conditions without being unreasonably demanding. For those interested in Cubaris but not ready for the most challenging species, Giant Mandarins represent a sensible middle ground.

Murina Mandarin, otherwise named the Mandarin isopod, is a rare species that is easy to keep and handle pets. Featuring an orange-colored body, these isopods are a colored variant and popular for their striking appearance. Even though Murina Mandarin are low maintenance, they are a rare species, making them a prized possession for keepers. Murina Mandarin: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Difficulty: Easy Rarity: Uncommon Temperature: 17–28°C Size: Up to 1.2 cm Humidity: Medium-high Favorable Foods: Greens, veggies, fruits, lichen, fish food, forest moss, decaying leaves, rotting white wood, and reptile and invertebrates molting. An Overview A unique and visually striking species, Murina Mandarin is a native to Thailand. Famed for its vibrant orange coloration, Murina Mandarin is a favourite among collectors and hobbyists who prefer rare species. An exotic and sought-after species, Murina Mandarin is from Cubaris genus. They grow up to 1.2 cm in size, which are relatively smaller in size then other species in the genus, making them an excellent choice for beginners and experienced keepers.  Although rare, Murina Mandarin requires minimum care as long as its habitat conditions are correct. Thriving in warm temperatures, Murina Mandarin can tolerate a wide humidity range, both medium and high. This is what sets them apart from other isopod species. Murina Mandarin: Basic Care We have provided an overview of the basic care requirements: As a hardy isopod species, Murina Mandarin suits both experienced keepers and beginners. Temperature between 17°C and 28°C boosts their overall health and growth. They also thrive better in humid levels between 55% and 70%.  Maintain a moist substrate as it is good for their molting process. Provide a balanced diet so your isopods are active and healthy. Murina Mandarin: Feeding Being a detritivores, Murin Mandarin thrives better on diet containing rotting white wood, decaying leaves, and forest moss. Pack their diet with nutrients by adding fresh vegetables, fruits, and greens. Serving them fish food or dried shrimp twice a week is also a good idea for to maintain their protein level. For calcium source, limestone or cuttlebone is a good option as they develop their exoskeleton. Murina Mandarin: Appearance and Behaviour The bright orange coloration makes these isopods attractive to look at.  Murin Mandarin is shy creatures and seeks shelter under substrate or decor.  They prefer to live in a well-established colony and socialize with other isopods. More active during the night, Murin Mandarin sleeps or hides during the daytime.  Murina Mandarin: Habitat An ideal habitat for Murin Mandarin isopods requires replicating their natural habitat, which you can create by maintaining moist and warm conditions within the terrarium. Use rich organic matter like rotting wood and decaying leaves for substrate, which provide shelter and food. For moisture retention, use forest moss along with maintaining good ventilation within the enclosure. Murina Mandarin: Substrate Mix A good substrate mix offers is not just shelter and plays a role of food source and retains moisture, so your isopods live comfortably. Creating the perfect substrate requires mixing orchid bark, sphagnum moss, and earthworm castings. Balancing nutrition and structure makes a great setup for your isopods. Also, it mimics the forest floor, where these isopods originally lived.

A small Chinese Cubaris species with a distinctive three-colour banding pattern across its body segments. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Daxin County, Guangxi, China Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Daxin Tricolor' Difficulty Level: Low to Medium Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Rare Temperature: 18°C to 27°C Humidity: 70% to 80% (medium-high) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, fish food Supplements: Limestone, cuttlebone, calcium powder, protein sources Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: An Overview Daxin Tricolor isopods originate from the Guangxi region of southern China. They've gained attention in the hobby primarily for their colouration, which features three distinct colour bands across their body segments, typically combining shades of orange, black, and white or cream. Some keepers compare the pattern to candy corn, though the exact colouration can vary between individuals. These are a relatively smaller Cubaris species, staying compact at around 1.5cm when fully grown. They're not as demanding as some of the more sensitive Cubaris varieties like Rubber Ducky, making them a reasonable option for keepers who want to try a Chinese Cubaris without jumping straight to the most challenging species. That said, they're still Cubaris. They have the typical Cubaris personality: shy, secretive, and inclined to spend most of their time buried in substrate or hiding under bark. Don't expect them to parade around on the surface for your viewing pleasure. You'll see them mostly during evening hours, when feeding, or when you disturb the substrate. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Appearance The "tricolor" name describes the banding pattern that runs across their segmented bodies. Most specimens show a combination of orange, black, and lighter cream or white bands. The exact distribution and intensity of these colours varies between individuals, which adds interest when watching a colony develop. They have the typical Cubaris body shape: rounded and compact with the ability to roll into a defensive ball when threatened. This conglobation behaviour is characteristic of the genus and quite satisfying to observe. At 1.5cm adult size, they're on the smaller side for Cubaris. This makes them less visually impactful than larger species but also means they don't require as much space per individual. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Basic Care Daxin Tricolor care follows the general Cubaris template: moist, warm, and with good calcium availability. They're not the most demanding Cubaris species, but they do need consistent conditions to thrive. Temperature: Room temperature to slightly warm works well. Aim for 18°C to 27°C. They're not tropical cave dwellers like Rubber Ducky, so they don't need high heat, but they do prefer it on the warmer side of room temperature. Humidity: Medium to high humidity is important. Keep the substrate consistently moist but not waterlogged. A humidity gradient helps: one section of the enclosure should be damper than the rest, allowing the isopods to move between zones as needed. Ventilation: Moderate airflow is sufficient. Unlike the dry Spanish Porcellio species, Cubaris don't need aggressive ventilation. However, completely stagnant air can cause mould problems, so some airflow is still important. Substrate Depth: These isopods like to burrow. Provide at least 5-8cm of substrate depth to accommodate this natural behaviour. You won't see them much if the substrate is too shallow. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Feeding Daxin Tricolor are detritivores with the typical Cubaris appetite. They're not fussy eaters but do require a varied diet with adequate protein and calcium. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter Decaying white rotting wood Organic matter in the substrate Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, sweet potato, cucumber) Fish flakes or freeze-dried shrimp for protein Occasional fruit Calcium Sources: Cubaris species need reliable calcium for healthy moulting and breeding. Provide: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chunks or powder Crushed eggshells Oyster shell Many keepers find that adding limestone directly to the substrate works well for Cubaris. This mimics the calcium-rich cave environments where many Cubaris species naturally occur. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive, nutrient-rich substrate supports healthy Cubaris colonies. These isopods spend a lot of time in and under the substrate, so getting this right matters. A suitable mix might include: Organic potting soil (pesticide-free) as a base Coconut coir for moisture retention Sphagnum moss mixed through and on top Earthworm castings for nutrition Orchid bark pieces for structure and drainage Limestone powder or chips for calcium Decaying hardwood pieces Layer the top with abundant leaf litter and add cork bark pieces for hides. Moss coverage on the surface helps maintain humidity and provides a comfortable surface environment. Keep the substrate consistently moist. It should feel damp when you touch it but shouldn't release water when squeezed. The deeper layers can be slightly wetter than the surface. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Enclosure Setup A standard Cubaris setup works well for Daxin Tricolor. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container is suitable for a starter colony. These are small isopods and don't need huge amounts of space initially. Hides: Cork bark pieces, both flat on the substrate and propped at angles, provide essential hiding spots. These isopods are shy and need places to retreat. Moss Coverage: Sphagnum moss across part of the substrate surface helps maintain humidity and provides additional cover. Leaf Litter: A thick layer of mixed hardwood leaves provides food and shelter. Don't skimp on this. Ventilation: A few ventilation holes or a small mesh panel is sufficient. These don't need the aggressive airflow that dry Porcellio species require. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Breeding Under appropriate conditions, Daxin Tricolor establish stable breeding colonies. They're not the fastest breeders in the Cubaris genus, but they're reasonably reliable once settled. What to Expect: Gradual colony growth rather than population explosions Brood sizes typical for smaller Cubaris (usually smaller broods than larger species) Seasonal variations in breeding activity Time needed to establish before reproduction becomes consistent New colonies often take a few months to settle before breeding picks up. This is normal Cubaris behaviour. Patience is required. Stable conditions support breeding success. Fluctuations in humidity or temperature can disrupt reproduction, so consistency matters more than perfection. Keep calcium readily available, provide protein supplementation, and maintain appropriate moisture levels. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Behaviour Like most Cubaris, these are secretive isopods. They spend daylight hours hidden in the substrate or under bark and become more active during evening and night hours. Typical Behaviours: Burrowing into substrate Congregating under cork bark and leaf litter Rolling into defensive balls when disturbed Nocturnal foraging Peaceful colony cohabitation Don't be alarmed if you rarely see your Daxin Tricolour. This is normal. A healthy colony that you never see is preferable to sick isopods that are constantly exposed on the surface (often a sign of problems). Who Are Daxin Tricolor Isopods For? These suit keepers who: Have some experience with isopods and want to try a Cubaris species Appreciate subtle visual appeal over dramatic displays Can maintain consistent humidity and temperature Don't need constant visual entertainment from their isopods Want a breeding project with moderate difficulty They might not suit: Complete beginners (start with hardier species first) Keepers wanting highly active, visible isopods Those unable to maintain consistent environmental parameters Anyone wanting rapid colony growth If you've successfully kept easier Cubaris like C. murina or similar species, Daxin Tricolour is a reasonable next step without being excessively challenging. Bioactive Use Daxin Tricolor can work in bioactive setups, though they're not the most efficient cleanup crew. Their small size and shy nature mean they won't process waste as quickly as larger, more active species. They're better suited to: Smaller tropical or subtropical enclosures Low-bioload setups Display terrariums where aesthetics matter more than waste processing Pair them with springtails for more comprehensive organic breakdown. The springtails handle small debris and mould prevention while the isopods tackle larger organic matter at their own pace. What's Included Each order contains healthy specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to help establish a balanced colony with breeding potential. A care sheet is provided with every order.

Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods is considered to be one of the most popular isopods from the armadillo branch of isopods. Their optimal conditions are dry regions. They are identified as originating from Greece. They are mainly considered an attractive group of species with intense patterns across their bodies. This makes them the perfect choice for terrariums, making them a fully attractive species.  Key Points Origin: Greece Scientific Name: Armadillo Tuberculatus Difficulty Level: Easy Size: 1.5 CM. Rarity: Medium Temperature: 22-28˚C Humidity Level: 40-60% Preferred Foods: Leaf litter, carrot, white rotten wood, moss, cuttlebone An Overview Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods are famous for their attractive design across their body. They are understood to thrive in moist environments and conditions. They have a bluish outer covering that makes them one of the most attractive species of isopods among collectors. Their exoskeletons are identified as hard. Tuberculatus isopods cannot reproduce quickly when introduced into a terrarium. They are believed to occupy two-thirds of the whole space, making them an 'invasive' species.  The bluish colour of young Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods may not be that evident. They are also believed to have thorny spikes in their exoskeleton. When these isopods achieve full growth, these spikes turn into bumps on their exoskeleton. Their colouring also improves as they become fully grown adults. Their exoskeletons, like those of other isopods, are believed to be strong and offer protection from external dangers.  Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods are free to consume a variety of food items. Leaf litter is considered their favorite food source. They can also consume moss, white hardwood, etc. In terrariums, they can be fed many types of vegetables in their dried form. Carrots, leafy vegetables, etc., are ideally preferred for their full growth. Additionally, fish food, cuttlebone, etc., can be provided as protein supplements. Basic Care The following instructions must be followed to provide the best care for Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods. As they are mainly found in moist regions, Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods would prefer moderate humidity in the new atmosphere they are brought into. Retaining moisture is a tricky part of the development of these isopods. The right moisture levels can effectively ensure their survival.  Preferably, two-thirds of the container should have moisture to maintain the required level of environment.  These isopods are considered one of the most attractive species to have in a vivarium or enclosure.  They are relatively slow breeders when compared to other Armadillidium species of isopods.  The ventilation level for the enclosure for Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods should be medium.  In their natural environments, many objects are preferred by these species to hide in. Artificial hiding spots in the enclosures can provide a more natural feel for the enclosure.  Their diet includes- Leaf litter, white hardwood, dried vegetables, fish food, cuttlebone, etc.  Normal room temperature of 22-28˚C is enough for these species to survive and reproduce. Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods: Feeding Like many other species of isopods, Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods are also considered detritivores. Such species are graced with the luxury of being able to feed on various food items. The main food particles consumed by Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods include- leaf litter, white hardwood, dried vegetables, fish food, etc.  As they are naturally found in moist environments, decaying wood and large amounts of leaves are an easy source of food for them. Dried scraps of vegetables from a functional kitchen can provide these isopods with the necessary balance they seek within the artificial enclosures. Dry items are preferred as they have very little chance of developing mold growth within the enclosures. The collector's efforts could be in vain in the presence of molds.  Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods highly prefer foods having immense amounts of protein and calcium. The daily feeding practice of these isopods should include all food items rich in minerals for optimal growth. Keeping them close to the kitchen can allow the collector to utilize the options provided under dried vegetables. They can continue to grow efficiently with additional supplements like fish food, cuttlebone, etc.  Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Just like any other species, Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods also have hard exoskeletons. As a medium range species of isopods, fully grown adult tuberculatus isopods have a bluish exoskeleton, with light white patches. . They are mostly found in blue colour alone. They only grow up to 1.5 CM long.  Their origin is from Greece. Like many other species of isopods, these isopods also prefer the idea of burrowing.  Tuberculatus isopods are mostly found in moist environments. They require two third of the vivarium to be moisture filled for their survival.  They are recognized as a slow breeder species.  The breeding pattern followed is relatively slow when compared to other isopods. Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods: Habitat Armadillo Tuberculatus isopods require an ideal habitat to have the best growth. It is very much fundamental for their survival as a species of isopods. They are considered as an advanced range of isopods that can be used in the vivarium only after their proper establishment. The display that they offer through their body and hard exoskeleton make them a highly preferred choice among collectors. Maintaining an optimal condition in the vivarium can be manageable for collectors.  This particular type of isopods can survive within the temperature range of 22-28⁰C. Temperature levels form an integral aspect of the maintenance of these isopods as they affect their metabolism levels to a great extent. Some experts suggest the use of thermometers to regularly check the level of humidity and maintain the ideal environment. Tuberculatus isopods are relatively easier to manage in room temperatures.  Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods are identified as slow breeders. Unlike other isopods, they do not breed swiftly. But they have an invasive nature once they are settled into the vivarium or enclosures.   Tuberculatus isopods are tiny within their own particular species of isopods. Their maximum growth range is identified as less than 1.5 CM. Maintaining the required moisture levels is highly advocated for this species of isopod, as they are originally found in moist regions.  Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods: Substrate Mix Various types of nutrients and other materials are made use of to create an ideal substrate mixture. Providing a suitable substrate can elevate the growth of any kind of isopods. For giving the susbstrate, both natural and artificial materials can be utilized. For Armadillo Tuberculatus isopods, the ideal substrate mixture can be made relatively easily.  Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods mostly require a moist environment for their survival. Leaf litter and white rotten wood are considered easily collectible for this purpose. Decayed leaves and wood are good sources of protein for these isopods. Leaves should most probably be collected from regions that are pesticide-free. Any small amount of chemicals can instantly kill these isopods.   Armadillo Tuberculatus Isopods are not considered as climbers. The original environment they are found in has a lot of natural spots for them to burrow. The aim of any collector should be to recreate this environment with enough nutrient mixture to provide the right environment for their growth. The majority of the enclosure should have a moist region perfect for their survival. Even though they are slow breeders, they can reproduce in large numbers once they feel safe in their environment.