Other Inverts For Sale (8)

White Spotted Assassin Bug (Platymeris biguttatus) is one of the most popular predatory insects in the hobby and for good reason. These striking bugs feature a jet-black body with two distinctive white spots on their wing covers (hemelytra) and bold yellow-banded legs. Native to the tropical forests of West and Central Africa, they're fascinating ambush predators that have become a staple for keepers looking for something a bit different. Let's be clear from the start: these are not handling pets. Platymeris biguttatus can deliver a painful bite - comparable to a bee sting - and can also spit venom with surprising accuracy, typically aiming for the eyes. Handle with care and respect, and they'll reward you with fascinating behaviour and relatively straightforward husbandry. White Spotted Assassin Bugs are one of the easier predatory insects to keep and breed. They're social, can be kept communally, reproduce readily in captivity, and can live up to two years with proper care. If you've ever fancied keeping a tarantula but wanted something a bit more active and visible, these could be perfect. A Glimpse Origin: West and Central Africa (Gabon, Nigeria, and surrounding regions) Scientific Name: Platymeris biguttatus Difficulty Level: Easy Size: 30-40mm (adults) Temperature: 22-28°C Humidity: 50-70% (moderate, with good ventilation) Favourite Foods: Live insects - crickets, cockroaches, mealworms, locusts An Overview Platymeris biguttatus belongs to the order Hemiptera (true bugs) and the family Reduviidae (assassin bugs). The name "biguttatus" translates directly to "two-spotted," referring to the prominent white markings on their backs. In the wild, they inhabit tropical forest regions where they live in rotting tree stumps and decaying wood, ambushing passing prey. These bugs are equipped with needle-like mouthparts (a rostrum or proboscis) that they use to pierce their prey and inject a cocktail of enzymes and venom. This liquefies the prey's internal tissues, which the bug then sucks out like a gruesome smoothie. It's brutal, but absolutely fascinating to observe. There are several Platymeris species in the hobby. The Red Spotted Assassin Bug (P. rhadamanthus) and the Orange Spotted Assassin Bug (P. sp. "Mombo") are also available. Of the three, P. biguttatus is considered the most commonly kept and one of the more docile species - though "docile" is relative when we're talking about venomous predators. Adults can reach 30-40mm in length and have a lifespan of around 1-2 years. They're surprisingly social and do well in communal setups, making them excellent colony insects. Basic Care Handle with extreme caution. These bugs can bite and spit venom. The bite is painful (comparable to a bee sting) and the wound can last for days. The venom spray targets the eyes and can cause temporary blindness. Use long tweezers or forceps when maintaining the enclosure. They're excellent climbers and can scale smooth surfaces as adults. Secure, tight-fitting lids are essential - these bugs will escape if given the opportunity. Good ventilation is important. Stagnant, overly humid conditions can lead to mould and health issues. They're communal insects and can be kept in groups. Cannibalism is possible if they're underfed, but well-fed colonies coexist peacefully. These are ambush predators and spend much of their time sitting motionless waiting for prey to wander past. Don't mistake this stillness for poor health - it's completely normal behaviour. Nymphs and adults can be kept together. Young nymphs will even scavenge on the remains of prey killed by adults. They're primarily nocturnal but will hunt during the day if hungry. Feeding Platymeris biguttatus is an obligate predator - they eat only live prey. There's no way around this; if you're uncomfortable feeding live insects, this isn't the species for you. Suitable prey items include: Crickets (most commonly used) Cockroaches (Dubia, Turkestan, etc.) Mealworms and morio worms Isopods (Dairy cows are a popular choice) Locusts Waxworms (as occasional treats) Prey size should ideally be smaller than the assassin bug's body length, though they can take down surprisingly large prey thanks to their potent venom. For nymphs, use appropriately sized feeders - pinhead crickets or fruit flies for the smallest instars. Feed adults 1-2 times per week. The larger the colony, the more prey you'll need to offer. Keep them well-fed - hungry assassin bugs will resort to cannibalism. Remove uneaten prey and dead insect husks within 24-48 hours to prevent mould and mite infestations. Use long tweezers for this to avoid bites. They obtain most of their hydration from their prey, so a water dish isn't strictly necessary. Light misting of one corner of the enclosure every few days is sufficient. Appearance and Behaviour Adult Platymeris biguttatus are striking insects. The body is predominantly black with two conspicuous white spots on the wing covers. The legs are banded with black and yellow sections, and the head features a pair of long, delicate antennae along with the characteristic piercing rostrum. Adults measure 30-40mm in length. The thorax has two small spines on its outer edges. Sexing can be tricky, but females tend to be slightly larger and have a wider thorax. Males have a distinctive rounded structure on the final abdominal segment when viewed from below. Behaviourally, these are ambush predators. They'll find a good hiding spot - typically under bark or in a corner - and wait motionlessly for prey to pass. When something suitable comes within range, they strike with surprising speed, grabbing the prey with their raptorial front legs and delivering a venomous bite. When disturbed, they may: Rear up defensively Spray venom (targeting the face/eyes - they're disturbingly accurate) Deliver a bite if grabbed They're more likely to flee than fight, but don't push your luck. Respect the bug and it'll generally leave you alone. Habitat A 10-gallon glass tank or equivalent plastic enclosure works well for a small colony of 3-5 individuals. Smaller enclosures work for single specimens or small starter colonies. Secure lids are essential. Use fine mesh or a locking screen lid. These bugs climb well and will exploit any gaps. Provide good ventilation. Multiple mesh panels or ventilation holes help prevent stagnant air. Temperature should be maintained at 22-28°C. Room temperature is often fine in UK homes. If supplemental heating is needed, use a heat mat on the side of the enclosure (not underneath, as this dries out the substrate too quickly). Humidity should be moderate - around 50-70%. Light misting every few days is usually sufficient. Avoid waterlogging the substrate. Provide plenty of vertical surfaces and hiding spots. Cork bark is ideal - lay pieces diagonally over each other to create accessible hiding spaces. Egg crate cartons also work well. These bugs appreciate vertical space as they have semi-arboreal tendencies. Taller enclosures are better than wider ones. Substrate Mix Substrate requirements for assassin bugs are minimal and flexible. Unlike many invertebrates, they don't have strict substrate needs. Options include: Vermiculite (popular choice - drains well) Coconut fibre (coco coir) Plain sand A mix of the above Depth should be around 3-5cm (1-2 inches). Keep the substrate mostly dry with one corner kept slightly damp for egg-laying females. Overly wet conditions encourage mould growth. If you're breeding, provide a shallow dish of damp (not wet) vermiculite or similar substrate in one corner. Females prefer to lay eggs in slightly moist areas, and eggs require higher humidity to develop properly. On top of the substrate, add: Cork bark pieces (essential for hiding) Some vertical climbing surfaces Optional: dried leaves or plastic plants for additional cover Keep the enclosure clean by removing dead prey items and any mouldy substrate. Replace substrate entirely if it becomes soiled or starts to smell. Breeding Breeding Platymeris biguttatus is straightforward once you have a mixed-sex colony established. Purchasing a group gives you the best chance of having both sexes, as reliable sexing is difficult. Mating involves the male mounting the female and can last several hours. A few days after mating, females begin depositing small, dark eggs throughout the substrate - particularly in damper areas. Eggs are tiny and can be hard to spot initially. Eggs change from dark to reddish in colour over approximately three weeks. Incubation takes around 6-8 weeks depending on temperature. Eggs require higher humidity than adults, so if you're separating them, keep them on damp (not wet) substrate. Nymphs are miniature versions of adults and can be raised communally. Feed small prey items (pinhead crickets, fruit flies) and ensure they have access to water via light misting. Nymphs will also scavenge on kills made by adults. Development through multiple instars takes several months before reaching adulthood.

Giant Flower Cockroach (Eucorydia dasytoides) is a stunning species and the largest of the flower roaches currently available in culture. Native to Taiwan and parts of China, this species belongs to the Eucorydia genus - commonly known as flower roaches because males are frequently observed visiting flowers during the day in the wild. What makes this species so desirable is the transformation. The nymphs are nothing to write home about - small, brownish, and frankly a bit dull. But after the final moult, adults emerge with a gorgeous metallic blue-green iridescent colouration that genuinely has to be seen to be believed. It's like keeping ugly ducklings that turn into tiny jewelled beetles. Eucorydia dasytoides is considered one of the rarer species in the UK hobby. They're relatively new to culture here and remain highly sought after by collectors. Once you understand their needs, they're not particularly demanding to keep, though patience is required - nymphs take 7-10 months to reach adulthood. A Glimpse Origin: Taiwan, China (Southeast Asia) Scientific Name: Eucorydia dasytoides Difficulty Level: Easy to Moderate Size: 15-20mm (adults) Temperature: 20-27°C (can benefit from winter cooling) Humidity: 50-70% (prefers drier conditions with good ventilation) Favourite Foods: Fresh fruits, pollen, decaying leaves, protein supplements An Overview Eucorydia dasytoides is the largest species in the flower roach genus, reaching around 15-20mm as adults - roughly twice the size of the popular Sapphire Flower Roach (Eucorydia westwoodi). The UK stock currently in culture originates from Taoyuan, Taiwan. In the wild, male flower roaches are pollinators, frequently visiting flowers during daylight hours. Females are more secretive, preferring to hide under bark and within rotting wood. This natural behaviour hints at their care requirements - they appreciate a setup that allows both burrowing and some climbing opportunity. The entire Eucorydia genus is found exclusively in Asia, with various species occurring across China, Taiwan, Vietnam, Japan, India, and Southeast Asia. They belong to the Corydiidae family (previously known as Polyphagidae), which also includes the sand cockroaches. One thing worth noting: adults are relatively short-lived compared to the lengthy nymph stage. Adult males typically live 2-3 months, with females lasting slightly longer. This makes starting with a reasonable group size important to ensure you have overlapping generations once the colony establishes. Basic Care Nymphs cannot climb smooth surfaces, but adults of both sexes can - secure lids are essential, especially since males can fly. Ventilation is critical. This cannot be overstated. Poor airflow leads to fungal infections that can wipe out adults. Keep airflow high and humidity on the lower side. These roaches do better in drier, well-ventilated enclosures rather than humid ones. Think more "airy" than "tropical rainforest." Nymphs and females spend much of their time burrowed in substrate. Males are more active and visible. A winter cooling period (diapause) at around 15-18°C for a few months can help synchronise male and female maturation times and improve breeding success. This isn't strictly essential but is beneficial. Expect nymphs to take 7-10 months to reach adulthood. The wait is worth it. Keep colonies small initially. A starter group of 5-10 nymphs in a compact enclosure makes monitoring easier and helps you track oothecae (egg cases). Feeding Flower roaches have a varied diet, and their wild pollen-feeding behaviour means they appreciate fresh fruits more than many other roach species. Good food options include: Fresh fruits (especially important for adults) - apple, banana, melon, berries Vegetables - cucumber, courgette, carrot, leafy greens Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech) - important dietary component Fish flakes or similar protein supplement - once weekly Pollen granules (if you can source them) - excellent for adults Dog/cat biscuits (small amounts for protein) Remove uneaten fresh food within 24-48 hours to prevent mould growth - this species is particularly susceptible to issues from mould. Leaf litter isn't just decoration for flower roaches - it forms a significant part of their diet. A thick layer of decaying hardwood leaves on top of the substrate is essential. Appearance and Behaviour The transformation from nymph to adult in this species is genuinely remarkable. Nymphs are small, brownish, and rather unremarkable - they've been nicknamed the "ugly ducklings" of the roach world. They spend most of their time burrowed in substrate, only emerging occasionally. Adults are a different story entirely. After the final moult, they develop stunning metallic blue-green iridescence that makes them one of the most visually striking roach species available. The colouration can vary somewhat between individuals. Size-wise, Eucorydia dasytoides is the giant of the flower roach group at 15-20mm - still a relatively small roach overall, but nearly twice the size of the common Sapphire Flower Roach. Males are more active and will explore the enclosure, while females remain more secretive and prefer hiding under bark or burrowing. Males can fly when disturbed, so be prepared for this when opening the enclosure. Breeding behaviour is straightforward - males chase females briefly before initiating tail-to-tail copulation that lasts several hours. Females produce small oothecae (egg cases) once or twice weekly, each containing 5-10 eggs. Oothecae take approximately two months to hatch. Habitat For small starter colonies (up to 10 nymphs), a compact enclosure around 8x8x8cm works well and makes monitoring easier. For established colonies, a larger enclosure such as a small kritter keeper or similar (around 15x10x12cm) is suitable. Adults can climb and males can fly - ensure lids are secure with no gaps. Excellent ventilation is essential. Multiple ventilation holes or mesh sections are recommended. This species does poorly in stuffy, humid conditions. Temperature should be kept between 20-27°C for normal activity. A winter cooling period at 15-18°C for a few months helps synchronise breeding. Humidity should be moderate - around 50-70%. Keep the enclosure on the drier side with occasional light misting to one corner. Do not keep this species wet. No additional hides are strictly necessary as they'll burrow, but a piece of cork bark is appreciated and makes it easier to check on them. Substrate Mix Substrate requirements for flower roaches are straightforward but important. A suitable substrate consists of: Coconut fibre (coco coir) Organic potting soil Peat moss Or a combination of the above Substrate depth should be around 2.5-5cm (1-2 inches) to allow for burrowing. On top of the substrate, add a thick layer (2.5-5cm) of decaying hardwood leaf litter. This is important - leaf litter serves as both food and habitat enrichment. Oak and beech leaves work well. A small piece of cork bark provides a focal point and makes it easier to check on the colony without disturbing the substrate too much. Designate one corner as a "hydration corner" - lightly mist this area when needed rather than wetting the entire enclosure. The substrate should be mostly dry with this one area kept slightly damp. Replace substrate every 6-8 months to prevent frass buildup affecting the enclosure conditions.

Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus) - also known as the Florida Ivory Millipede - is one of North America's most attractive native millipede species. Named for the distinctive ivory-white colouration along their sides, these millipedes are a brilliant entry point for anyone looking to keep their first millipede, or a solid addition for more experienced keepers wanting a hardy, active species. Ivory Millipedes are detritivores that spend most of their time burrowing through substrate, breaking down organic matter and generally being fascinating to observe. They're one of the larger North American millipede species, reaching around 8-10cm when fully grown, and have a reputation for being docile, easy to handle, and genuinely forgiving of keeper mistakes. A Glimpse Origin: Southeastern USA (Florida, Georgia, South Carolina) Scientific Name: Chicobolus spinigerus Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 10cm (22-25mm currently) Temperature: 20 to 27°C Humidity: 65 to 75% Favourite Foods: Decaying leaves, rotting wood, vegetables, fruits An Overview Chicobolus spinigerus originates from the humid forests, wetlands and coastal areas of the southeastern United States, from Florida through to South Carolina. In the wild, they live beneath rotting logs and within the top layers of leaf litter, where humidity remains consistently high and food is plentiful. These millipedes get their common name from the ivory-white colouration that runs along their lateral edges, contrasting with their darker brown or grey body. There's also a purple colour morph that matures into a striking black and white pattern. Ivory Millipedes are considered a fast-growing species by millipede standards, reaching maturity at around 18 months compared to the 2-5 years typical of many other species. They're prolific breeders once established and can live anywhere from 5 to 10 years with proper care. They make excellent bioactive tank inhabitants and work brilliantly alongside isopods and springtails, helping to break down organic waste and aerate the substrate. Basic Care Ivory Millipedes are docile creatures that rarely show any defensive behaviour beyond curling into a tight spiral when disturbed. They may secrete a mild defensive fluid if handled roughly, so wash your hands after handling. This secretion isn't dangerous but can irritate sensitive skin. These millipedes are primarily nocturnal, so don't be surprised if you see more activity in the evenings. They're social creatures and do well in groups. No aggression between individuals means you can house multiple millipedes together without issue. Substrate depth is crucial - aim for at least 10-15cm to allow for proper burrowing and moulting behaviour. Good ventilation is important to prevent mould build-up, but balance this with maintaining humidity levels. When they moult, they may disappear into the substrate for up to a week. This is completely normal. Feeding Millipedes are unique in that their substrate is their primary food source. This makes getting the substrate right absolutely essential - they'll spend most of their time eating decaying wood and leaves. Beyond the substrate, you can supplement their diet with: Fresh vegetables (cucumber, courgette, carrot, lettuce, squash) Fresh fruits (banana, melon, orange) - sparingly, as high sugar content can cause issues Decaying hardwood leaves (oak, beech) Rotting white wood Fish flakes or pellets (for protein, once a week) Dried shrimp or minnows Calcium is essential for healthy exoskeleton development and successful moulting. Good calcium sources include: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Limestone powder Oyster shell Remove uneaten fresh food before it goes mouldy - usually within 24-48 hours. Appearance and Behaviour Ivory Millipedes have a cylindrical body made up of numerous segments, each bearing two pairs of legs. Adults typically reach 8-10cm in length, though some individuals may grow slightly larger. Their colouration consists of a dark brown or grey body with distinctive ivory-white edges running the length of the animal. This white "skirt" is what gives them their common name. Juveniles may show slightly different colouration that develops as they mature. Males can be identified by examining the 7th body segment - instead of normal legs, males have modified gonopods (reproductive organs) which appear shorter or different from the surrounding legs. Behaviourally, these are calm, slow-moving creatures. They spend most of their time burrowing through substrate and feeding. They're comfortable being handled and will slowly crawl over your hands and arms when given the opportunity. When threatened, they curl into a tight spiral to protect their vulnerable underside. Habitat A minimum enclosure size of 20cm x 20cm x 20cm works for a small group, though bigger is always better. Substrate depth should be at least 10-15cm - deep enough for the millipede to completely burrow beneath the surface when moulting. Maintain good cross-ventilation to prevent mould while keeping humidity adequate. Temperature should be kept between 20-27°C. Room temperature works fine for most UK homes. Avoid using heat mats directly under the substrate. Humidity should stay around 65-75%. Mist lightly every 2-3 days and ensure the lower substrate layers remain moist. Add a thick layer of leaf litter on top of the substrate for shelter and additional food. Cork bark, branches and other climbing surfaces aren't essential but provide enrichment. Substrate Mix The substrate is arguably the most important aspect of millipede husbandry - they eat it, live in it, and moult within it. A good substrate mix should contain: 50% deciduous leaf litter humus (broken-down leaves from oak, beech or similar) 20% partially decomposed leaves 20% crumbled rotting hardwood 5% play sand or bird grit 5% ground cuttlefish bone or limestone powder Important: Avoid any substrates from pine or other coniferous trees. Some keepers recommend avoiding coconut coir as the primary component, as it offers little nutritional value to millipedes. If you do use coir, ensure it's mixed with plenty of decaying organic matter. Keep the substrate moist at the bottom and allow the top layer to dry slightly. This creates a humidity gradient that allows the millipedes to self-regulate.

The original "green banana roach," Panchlora nivea stands out as one of the most successful and adaptable species in the exotic roach hobby. Their soft, pale green coloration and excellent breeding productivity have made them a staple for both display colonies and as nutritious feeders for larger reptiles and amphibians. While perhaps not as brilliantly colored as their cousin P. magnifica, these hardy roaches offer beginners an accessible entry into keeping green roaches with their forgiving care requirements and reliable reproduction. A Glimpse Origin: Cuba, Caribbean, and now pantropical Scientific Name: Panchlora nivea Difficulty Level: Low Adult Size: 22-25mm (0.9-1 inch) Rarity: Common in hobby Temperature: 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C) Humidity: 65% to 75% Favorite Foods: Fruits, vegetables, grains Supplements: Fish flakes, bee pollen, oats Overview Cuban Cockroaches have a fascinating history, having spread from their Caribbean origins to tropical regions worldwide through human commerce - particularly the banana trade, hence their nickname. Adults display a pleasant lime to pale green color that's less metallic than other Panchlora species but still attractive. Nymphs start brown and gradually develop their green coloration through successive molts, with the transformation beginning around the third or fourth instar. Despite being excellent climbers and capable fliers, they're surprisingly manageable in captivity with proper precautions. They're primarily nocturnal but less skittish than many roach species, often remaining visible during daylight hours in established colonies. Adults emit a distinctive but mild odor when disturbed - some describe it as musty or cucumber-like - but proper ventilation keeps this minimal. Basic Care Enclosure Setup: Minimum 15-litre container for starter colonies (10-15 individuals) Secure, fine-mesh ventilation essential - adults can fly 3-4 inch substrate layer for nymphs Mix of horizontal and vertical hides Egg cartons, cork bark, or cardboard tubes work well Apply petroleum jelly barrier below lid as escape prevention Substrate Mix: 40% coconut fiber 30% peat moss or compost 20% crushed dried leaves 10% sand or perlite Environmental Conditions: Cuban Cockroaches are notably tolerant of varying conditions, part of what makes them excellent for beginners. They thrive at normal room temperatures (22-26°C) but breed faster with slight warming. Humidity should be moderate - they're more forgiving of occasional dry periods than many tropical species. Mist every 2-3 days, or provide a moisture gradient with one damp corner. Good ventilation is crucial to prevent fungal issues and minimize any odor. Feeding: Feed 2-3 times weekly with a varied diet. They're unfussy eaters with robust appetites. Dry foods like fish flakes, dog kibble, and rolled oats should always be available. Fresh fruits and vegetables are eagerly consumed - apple, orange, carrot, and potato are favorites. They have a particular fondness for sweet foods and will swarm over banana or melon. Grains and cereals are excellent for boosting reproduction. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 48 hours. Breeding Notes P. nivea are prolific breeders under proper conditions. Females produce oothecae containing 20-30 eggs, which they carry briefly before depositing in substrate or hidden crevices. Incubation takes 40-50 days at optimal temperatures. Nymphs grow quickly, reaching maturity in 3-4 months with good nutrition. Adults live 12-20 months, with females capable of producing multiple oothecae throughout their lives. Colonies can grow rapidly - be prepared for population management or have a plan for excess roaches. Special Considerations Their climbing and flying abilities require secure enclosures - double-check all ventilation and apply barriers. While they cannot establish in UK homes due to temperature requirements, they're hardy enough to survive temporary escapes, so vigilance is important. They're excellent as feeders due to their soft bodies and high protein content, making them popular for poison dart frogs and small chameleons. This species cohabits well with other roaches and clean-up crew invertebrates. They're particularly good in bioactive setups where their active foraging helps prevent food waste accumulation. While generally healthy, overcrowding can lead to stress and reduced breeding - maintain appropriate colony sizes or split regularly. The mild odor they produce is completely harmless but can be minimized through good ventilation and regular cleaning. Some keepers report that adding activated carbon to the substrate helps absorb any smells. Their relatively small size and green color make them less intimidating than larger roach species, potentially helping nervous keepers overcome their hesitations about keeping roaches.