Ardentiella Isopods (10)

Ardentiella sp. "Red Diablo" (formerly Merulanella sp. "Red Diablo") is a striking Vietnamese isopod featuring bold red, yellow, and black colouration. They're active, surface-dwelling, and don't burrow—which means you'll actually see them. Combined with their vivid patterns, this makes them excellent display animals. However, they're not beginner isopods: they require stable conditions, lichen in their diet, and escape-proof enclosures as they can climb smooth surfaces. A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Ardentiella sp. "Red Diablo" (formerly Merulanella sp.) Common Names: Red Diablo Isopod, Red Diablo Woodlouse Maintenance required: Medium to high Average Size: 15-20mm Rarity: Very high Temperature: 19-26°C (66-78°F)—prefer cooler end Ventilation: High Humidity: 60-75% Favorite food: Leaf litter, lichen, mango, carrot, decaying wood Supplements: Calcium, protein Ardentiella Red Diablo Isopods: Introduction The genus formerly known as Merulanella has been reclassified as Ardentiella. You'll see both names used interchangeably in the hobby—they're the same animals. Red Diablos are a colour variation of the standard "Diablo" morph, distinguished by their red and white skirting rather than other colour combinations. Ardentiella species originate from tropical regions of Southeast Asia, particularly Vietnam and China. They've become highly sought-after among collectors for their dramatic colouration—few isopods match the visual impact of black bodies with red margins and yellow or white spots. Their surface-dwelling behaviour means this colouration is actually visible rather than hidden under substrate. These are intermediate to advanced isopods. Wild-caught specimens have high mortality rates and require careful stabilisation. Captive-bred animals are significantly easier but still need more precise conditions than beginner species. They require lichen as part of their diet, good ventilation, escape-proof enclosures, and stable temperatures. Success requires attention to detail. Ardentiella Red Diablo Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach 15-20mm (up to 2cm) Predominantly black body/shell Red colouration on body margins ("skirting") Yellow or white spots scattered across body (varies between individuals) Segmented body with rounded shape Pair of antennae on head Each individual has unique spot patterns The colour combination is genuinely striking—the black background makes the red and yellow pop dramatically. This is one of the most visually impressive isopod species available. Juveniles may show less intense colouration, developing their full patterns with maturity. Behaviour Ardentiella display distinctive behaviour that differs from many common isopods. Surface-dwelling: They don't burrow. You'll find them at substrate surface level, under bark and leaf litter, but not dug into the substrate. This makes them more visible than burrowing species. Arboreal tendencies: They prefer climbing and will utilise vertical space. Taller enclosures with climbing materials (branches, cork bark, bark pieces) suit them better than shallow setups. Climbing ability: They can climb smooth vertical surfaces including plastic and glass—like roaches. This is critical: enclosures must be escape-proof with no gaps around lids. Standard ventilated containers may allow escapes, particularly of juveniles and mancae. Activity: Active during both day and night, though most active at night. They're more active and visible than many isopod species—you'll see them moving about. Speed: Fast runners when disturbed—notably quicker than typical isopods. Social behaviour: Found in groups of 2-3 in the wild. They show territorial behaviour and may be aggressive toward other isopod species. Keep them as single-species colonies rather than mixing with other isopods. Temperament: Can be defensive of territory. In initial days after introduction, they'll stay hidden while observing surroundings. Once acclimated, they become more interactive and visible. Diet Ardentiella have specific dietary requirements, particularly regarding lichen. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple) Decaying wood (white-rotted wood preferred) Forest moss Lichen (important—not optional for this genus) Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot (a favourite) Fruits: mango (particularly enjoyed), other soft fruits They prefer slightly decayed vegetables and fruits over fresh Kinshi (fungus-colonised wood substrate) Reptile/invertebrate moults Protein: Gammarus shrimp Fish food/flakes Dried protein sources Calcium: Essential for healthy exoskeletons and moulting: Cuttlebone Crusite limestone Calcium powder Other supplements: Nitrogen: Bat guano provides nitrogen supplementation Note: Exuvium reports they don't eat bee pollen (contrary to some care guides) Critical note on lichen: Ardentiella species require lichen in their diet—this isn't optional. Without lichen access, colonies may decline or die. Include lichen-covered sticks or branches in the enclosure and maintain supply. This is one of the key differences from easier species that thrive on simple leaf litter diets. Ardentiella Red Diablo Isopods: Breeding Captive-bred Red Diablos breed prolifically under correct conditions. Breeding characteristics: Prolific breeders when captive-bred and established Wild-caught specimens are challenging to breed "Pouch brooding"—females carry eggs in ventral brood pouch Young remain in pouch until fully developed Moderate breeding pace—steady rather than explosive Wild-caught vs captive-bred: This distinction matters significantly: Captive-bred: Moderate difficulty, prolific breeding, higher survival rates Wild-caught: Challenging difficulty, low breeding success, high mortality—require extended stabilisation periods When purchasing, confirm whether animals are captive-bred. Wild-caught animals should only be shipped after stabilisation by the seller. Stabilisation: New arrivals need time to acclimate: Recreate natural habitat conditions Provide thick substrate with decaying matter Plenty of leaf litter and bark cover Regular feeding and calcium supplementation Don't introduce other animals until isopods are stabilised Allow 2-4 weeks minimum before expecting normal behaviour Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (19-26°C) Consistent humidity (60-75%) Lichen availability Good ventilation Adequate food supply No disturbance during establishment Ardentiella Red Diablo Isopods: Habitat Setup These require more careful setup than beginner species. Enclosure: Must be escape-proof—they climb smooth surfaces No gaps around lids or doors Taller enclosures preferred (arboreal species) Good ventilation required Terrariums, vivariums, or modified containers with secure mesh ventilation Ventilation: High ventilation is important—more than many tropical isopods. Ensure airflow while maintaining humidity. Cross-ventilation with fine mesh (to prevent escapes) works well. Substrate: They don't burrow, so extreme depth isn't necessary, but provide adequate substrate: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Forest humus Sphagnum peat moss for moisture retention Decaying leaf litter layered on top Pieces of decaying wood Humidity: 60-75%—moist but not wet: Keep substrate damp, not waterlogged Mist periodically to maintain humidity Maintain some drier areas for food placement Some sources suggest keeping them "wetter—like Cubaris" with layered setups Temperature: 19-26°C (66-78°F)—notably cooler than some tropical species: They prefer the cooler end of this range Higher temperatures (above 78°F/26°C) can cause stress and rapid death Avoid temperature fluctuations Room temperature in UK homes often suitable without additional heating Décor (important for this species): Cork bark or tree bark pieces (essential—they congregate underneath) Flat bark pieces for hiding Branches and climbing materials (utilise vertical space) Leaf litter (food and cover) Moss Twigs with lichen attached (provides both climbing and food) Setup approach: Think layered and vertical: Substrate base with moisture-retaining elements Decaying leaves and moss layer Bark pieces, lichen-covered twigs Cork bark or tree bark on top for cover Bioactive Use Red Diablos can work in bioactive setups but have limitations. Considerations: High visibility makes them good display animals Don't burrow, so won't aerate substrate like some species Climbing ability means they need secure enclosures May be aggressive toward other isopod species Require lichen—bioactive setups must provide this Higher care requirements than typical cleanup crew species Suitable applications: Display terrariums where they're the feature Tropical vivariums with appropriate conditions Not recommended as general-purpose cleanup crew for beginners Tank mates: Best kept as single-species colonies Don't mix with other isopod species (territorial behaviour) Can coexist with small, non-aggressive invertebrates Monitor population density to prevent overcrowding Suitability Red Diablos suit intermediate to advanced keepers wanting dramatic display isopods. Good choice for: Experienced isopod keepers wanting visually striking species Display colony enthusiasts Those who can provide stable conditions Keepers who want visible, active isopods Collectors building diverse collections Those prepared to source lichen regularly Less suited for: Complete beginners (start with hardier species) Those wanting low-maintenance cleanup crews Mixed-species isopod setups Keepers unable to provide escape-proof enclosures Those in very warm environments (they prefer cooler temperatures) Lifespan note: The original page mentions "up to three months" lifespan, which seems short. Other sources indicate 1-2 years under optimal conditions. The three-month figure may refer to wild-caught specimens under stress or be an error. Value: At £80 for 5, £150 for 10, or £270 for 20, Red Diablos are premium-priced isopods. This reflects their rarity, visual appeal, and the care required to maintain breeding colonies. For collectors wanting dramatic display species, the cost is justified by their appearance. They're not cost-effective as functional cleanup crews—use cheaper species for that purpose. What to expect: Expect visually stunning isopods with black, red, and yellow colouration that genuinely stands out. Expect them to be visible—they don't burrow and are active on the surface. Expect fast, active animals that use vertical space and will attempt to escape through any gaps. Expect to provide lichen as part of their diet—this isn't negotiable. Expect cooler temperature preferences than some tropical species. Expect territorial behaviour—they're best kept alone rather than with other isopod species. Expect that captive-bred animals are significantly easier than wild-caught. For keepers willing to meet their specific requirements, Red Diablos reward with some of the most dramatic colouration in the isopod hobby. They're not beginner animals, but they're achievable for keepers who research their needs and provide appropriate care.

Thunder Dragon Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Ardentiella (ex Merulanella) Size: Up to 17 mm Difficulty Level: Hard Temperature: 21-28°C Humidity: 70-85% Rarity: Very rare Favorite Foods: Fruits, greens, fish food, vegetables, decaying leaves, rotting wood.  An Overview A Ardentiella genus isopod, Thunder Dragons is native to Thailand. However, they are extremely rare, which is why they cannot be found easily, not even in the pet trade. Known for their bold look and unique charm, they thrive in specific conditions, without which they cannot survive or have molting issues. They prefer high-humidity areas, where temperatures don’t rise above 21-28°C or fluctuate much. Thunder Dragon isopods are not just pets but nature’s magic. They are adorable to look at when they move around in their enclosure in captivity. Because of their strong bodies and calm nature, they are easy to love, but they have care requirements above basic. Thunder Dragon Isopods: Basic Care With some basic care tips, you can easily maintain Thunder Dragon isopods as pets: Their priority is a clean moist environment with good airflow and ventilation to breathe easily and not feel discomfort. Maintain a stable and humid environment and to achieve one, you should create one in captivity and give them a chance to live their best lives without health issues. With using a plastic container, you can create their enclosure, but it should be big and have enough space for them to move around freely without feeling cramped. Keep an eye on the enclosure regularly and ensure it is not too dry or wet, as these conditions can create problems. Thunder Dragon Isopods: Feeding A balanced diet consisting of vegetables, dry leaves, rotting wood, and fruits ensures your isopods are healthy and get the nutrients required. For calcium sources, give cuttlebone because it is good for its exoskeleton and helps it develop better. Thunder Dragon Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour Might be an eye-catching creatures, but they have a hard, armor-like shell protecting them from predators if attacked. Their dark grey shade with a hint of purple or blue on their back enhances their appeal and makes them stand out from other species. Although they move slowly, they are very curious about their surroundings and become active at night, when the world is asleep and there are no threats around. Thunder Dragon Isopods: Habitat Creating the right habitat for Thunder Dragon Isopods is essential because, without it, they cannot survive or be happy, no matter how hard they try. They prefer a moist setup and stable temperature to live comfortably and not face health issues like they do when the specific conditions change drastically. Since they stay in hiding, adding plenty of cork bark, rocks, and leaf litter encourages their natural behavior, so make sure not to mess that up. Thunder Dragon Isopods: Substrate Mix Making a ground material for their terrarium is not that of a difficult task and you can mix dried leaves, organic soil, and coco fiber, but ensure they are free of chemicals, or else they can harm your isopods. Adding a few pieces of rotten wood and crushed eggshells because they provide important minerals and ensure their exoskeleton doesn’t weaken is a good call.

Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Ardentiella sp. "Batman" (formerly Merulanella sp.) Family: Armadillidae Difficulty Level: Hard — captive bred specimens are more forgiving, but this is still not a beginner species Adult Size: 18–20 mm Rarity: Very rare Temperature: 19–26°C — they prefer the cooler end Humidity: 60–75% Ventilation: High — good airflow is critical Diet: Leaf litter, white rotten wood, lichen, moss, vegetables, fruit, protein (gammarus shrimp, fish flakes) Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, oyster shell Batman Isopods: Overview Batman Isopods are one of the many striking morphs in the Ardentiella genus — a group of Vietnamese isopods formerly classified under Merulanella before being reclassified based on newer taxonomic findings. If you've kept or seen other Ardentiella morphs like Pink Lambo, Ember Bee, Volcano, or Tricolor, the care approach here is essentially the same. The genus as a whole shares the same requirements, quirks, and challenges. Ardentiella isopods are popular in the hobby for good reason. They're larger than many isopod species, they're active during the day as well as at night, and they have genuinely vibrant colouration. They're also noticeably bolder than a lot of other genera — you'll actually see these isopods out and about rather than permanently hiding under cork bark. That said, they're rated as hard difficulty for a reason, and we'd rather be honest about that upfront than have you lose a colony because the product page made them sound easy. Why They're Considered Difficult The two things that catch people out with Ardentiella are ventilation and frass buildup. These isopods need high humidity, but they also need excellent airflow. That combination trips up a lot of keepers because the instinct is to restrict ventilation to keep humidity up — but stagnant, humid air will kill Ardentiella faster than almost anything else. You need cross-ventilation in the enclosure, ideally with mesh vents on opposite sides. The air should be moving through the enclosure, not sitting in it. The second issue is frass. All isopods produce it, but Ardentiella are notably sensitive to it building up. Some keepers have reported colonies crashing within a matter of weeks once frass levels get too high, because it raises the acidity of the substrate. You should be replacing the substrate every 6 months at minimum, and keeping an eye on it in between. If it starts looking spent or compacted, don't wait — swap it out. Temperature This is another area where Ardentiella differ from a lot of tropical isopods. They prefer it cooler — 19–26°C is the target range, with the lower end generally being better. They can suffer in the heat of summer, particularly if your house gets above 26°C for prolonged periods. Some dedicated keepers use wine coolers or similar to keep their Ardentiella colonies cool during heatwaves. If your house runs warm, bear this in mind before buying. Enclosure and Substrate The enclosure needs to be escape-proof. This is not optional. Ardentiella — especially mancae and juveniles — can climb vertically on smooth plastic, much like cockroaches. If there's a gap, they will find it and they will get out. Use a secure, tight-fitting lid and check for any openings. For substrate, use a quality organic topsoil or forest humus mixed with decaying leaf litter and crumbled white rotten wood. Keep it moist but not waterlogged — the soil should be damp to the touch but you shouldn't be able to squeeze water out of it. Layer the top with leaf litter, moss, and pieces of lichen-covered twigs. Add cork bark — both flat pieces and some vertical sections — to provide hides and climbing opportunities. Ardentiella are semi-arboreal. They'll spend time under leaf litter on the substrate, but they also climb — on cork bark, on branches, on twigs. Providing some vertical elements gives them space to display natural behaviour and makes the enclosure more interesting to watch. Diet The foundation of their diet is leaf litter and white rotten wood, which should always be available in the enclosure. On top of that, they'll accept a range of supplementary foods: vegetables like courgette, sweet potato, and baby corn tend to go down well. Fruit can be offered occasionally. Lichen and moss are both eaten and appreciated. Protein is important — offer gammarus shrimp, fish flakes, or similar once or twice a week. Calcium should always be available in some form: cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell. One thing worth noting — bee pollen, which is popular with some other isopod species, is reportedly not accepted by Ardentiella. Remove uneaten fresh food promptly. Mould in an Ardentiella enclosure is not something you want to deal with. Breeding Captive bred Ardentiella are significantly easier to work with than wild caught specimens. CB colonies tend to breed at a fair to prolific rate, while WC animals can be very challenging to establish. Growth rate is on the slower side, so don't expect rapid colony expansion — patience is part of keeping this genus. They'll breed without any special triggers as long as conditions are right: good ventilation, appropriate humidity and temperature, clean substrate, and a varied diet. A mixed group of sizes gives you the best chance of having both sexes represented. Being Realistic At £80 for 5, these are not a cheap impulse buy, and they shouldn't be treated as one. If you haven't kept isopods before, start with something more forgiving — Dairy Cows, Powder Blues, or even an easier Cubaris species — and learn the fundamentals of humidity, ventilation, and substrate management first. There's nothing wrong with working up to Ardentiella. Losing a colony of £80 isopods because you're still figuring out the basics is an expensive way to learn. If you have kept other isopods successfully and you're comfortable managing humidity and airflow, Ardentiella are genuinely rewarding. They're active, they're visible, the colours are fantastic, and watching a colony establish itself is satisfying in a way that more prolific species sometimes aren't. Just respect the care requirements and don't cut corners on ventilation or substrate maintenance.

A Glimpse Scientific Name: Ardentiella sp. "Lava" (formerly Merulanella sp.) Common Name: Lava Isopod Family: Armadillidae Origin: Vietnam Adult Size: 18–25 mm (this morph is reported to grow notably larger than other Ardentiella) Difficulty: Hard — captive bred specimens are more manageable, but this is not a beginner species Temperature: 19–26°C — cooler than you'd expect for a tropical species Humidity: 60–75% Ventilation: High — critical for this genus Diet: Leaf litter, white rotten wood, lichen, moss, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell for calcium Please note: We also sell a completely different species called Porcellio scaber "Lava" — a beginner-level European isopod with a similar name but entirely different care requirements and price point. Make sure you're on the right page for the species you're after. Lava Isopods: Overview Lava Isopods are one of the most visually striking morphs in the Ardentiella genus — formerly classified under Merulanella before the genus was revised. The name says it all: deep reds, lava-oranges, and warm yellows contrasting against dark undersides, creating an appearance that genuinely evokes molten rock. Every individual shows slightly different patterning, so a colony has a living, varied look to it rather than each animal being an identical copy. If you already keep other Ardentiella morphs — Batman, Ember Bee, Pink Lambo, Tricolor, or similar — you know exactly what to expect in terms of care. The genus shares the same fundamental requirements across all morphs. What sets the Lava morph apart, beyond its colouration, is size. Lava isopods are reported to grow noticeably larger than other Ardentiella in the hobby — up to around 1.5 times the size of something like an Ember Bee. Combined with the genus's characteristic boldness and activity level, this makes them one of the more impressive display isopods available. Ardentiella as a genus are popular for good reason. They're active during the day as well as at night, they're noticeably bolder than most isopod genera, and they spend a lot of time out in the open rather than permanently hidden. You'll actually see these isopods moving around their enclosure, climbing on cork bark and branches, investigating food, and interacting with each other. For a lot of keepers, that visibility is what makes the genus worth the extra care it demands. Why They're Rated Hard The difficulty rating is honest, and it's worth understanding what it means before committing £80. Two things kill Ardentiella colonies more than anything else: poor ventilation and frass buildup. Ventilation: These isopods need high humidity AND excellent airflow at the same time. That's a combination that trips up a lot of keepers, because the natural instinct is to restrict ventilation to keep humidity up. With Ardentiella, stagnant humid air is lethal. You need cross-ventilation — mesh vents on opposite sides of the enclosure — so air moves through rather than sitting. This is the single most important thing to get right. Frass buildup: Ardentiella are unusually sensitive to their own waste accumulating in the substrate. As frass builds up, it raises the acidity of the substrate, and colonies can crash surprisingly fast once this tips past a threshold. Replace the substrate every 6 months at minimum. If it starts looking dark, compacted, or spent before then, don't wait. There is a significant caveat to the difficulty rating, though. Captive bred Ardentiella are dramatically easier than wild caught. The genus has a reputation for being fragile, but that reputation comes largely from people buying wild-collected animals from bulk importers, which often arrive stressed and fail to establish. CB populations that have been stabilised over several generations breed readily and are much more forgiving. If you're buying from us, you're getting CB stock, and that makes a meaningful difference. Enclosure The enclosure must be escape-proof. This is not a suggestion — it's a requirement. Ardentiella, especially mancae and small juveniles, can climb smooth vertical plastic like cockroaches. If there's a gap in the lid, they will find it and get out. Use a tight-fitting lid and inspect for openings. These are semi-arboreal isopods. They'll use the substrate, but they also climb — on cork bark, branches, twigs, anything with texture. Provide a mix of horizontal hides and vertical climbing surfaces. Cork bark pieces (both flat and angled), lichen-covered twigs, and small branches all work well. The more three-dimensional the enclosure, the more natural behaviour you'll see. Substrate Use organic topsoil or forest humus (pesticide-free, fertiliser-free) mixed with crumbled white rotten hardwood and dried leaf litter. Keep it moist to the touch but not waterlogged — you shouldn't be able to squeeze water out of it. Top with a generous layer of whole leaves, moss, and pieces of soft rotting wood. Substrate depth should be at least 8–10 cm. This gives the isopods a humidity gradient (damper at the bottom, drier at the surface) and space to moult safely. Remember: the substrate is part of the diet. They eat it. Quality matters. Temperature This is one of the more surprising things about Ardentiella for people used to other tropical isopods. They prefer it cool — 19–26°C, with the lower end often being better. They can suffer in heat, and prolonged temperatures above 26°C can stress a colony. During UK summers, if your house gets warm, this is worth planning for. Some dedicated Ardentiella keepers use wine coolers or similar to keep colonies cool during heatwaves. In winter, most UK houses will naturally sit within the ideal range without additional heating. If your room drops below 18°C regularly, a low-wattage heat mat on a thermostat can help — placed on the side of the enclosure, not underneath. Diet The primary diet is leaf litter and white rotten wood, which should always be available. Top up as it's consumed — if you can see substrate rather than a thick leaf litter layer, you need to add more. Supplement with vegetables (courgette, sweet potato, carrot), occasional fruit, and moss and lichen, all of which are eaten and appreciated. Protein is important for this genus — offer gammarus shrimp, fish flakes, or freeze-dried bloodworm once or twice a week. Calcium should always be available: cuttlebone left in the enclosure, or crushed limestone/oyster shell mixed into or placed on the substrate. Ardentiella consume noticeably more calcium than many other isopod genera, possibly related to their size. Remove uneaten fresh food within a day. In a warm, humid enclosure, mould develops quickly and you don't want it establishing. Breeding Captive bred Ardentiella breed at a fair to prolific rate once established, but growth is slow. Don't expect rapid colony expansion — this is a genus where patience pays off. A starting group of 5 gives a reasonable chance of having both sexes represented, and from there it's a matter of maintaining conditions and letting the colony find its own pace. No special triggers are needed for breeding — just consistent, correct husbandry. Good ventilation, clean substrate, varied diet, appropriate temperature. The colony will do the rest. Being Realistic About the Price At £80 for 5, this is the same price bracket as our Ardentiella Batman Isopods, and the same honest advice applies. If you haven't kept isopods before, don't start here. Begin with something forgiving — Dairy Cows, Powder Blues, or even an easier Cubaris species — and learn the fundamentals of humidity, ventilation, and substrate management on species that won't punish small mistakes with colony collapse. If you've kept other isopods successfully and you're comfortable managing the ventilation-humidity balance, Ardentiella Lava are genuinely rewarding. The colours are spectacular, the size is impressive for the genus, and the active, bold behaviour means you get far more visual enjoyment than from species that spend most of their time hidden. Just respect the requirements — especially ventilation and substrate freshness — and they'll do well for you.

A Glimpse Scientific Name: Ardentiella sp. "Pastel" (formerly Merulanella sp.) Common Name: Pastel Isopod Family: Armadillidae Origin: Vietnam Adult Size: 18–20 mm — a large species by isopod standards Difficulty: Hard — captive bred stock is more forgiving, but this is not a beginner species Temperature: 19–26°C — prefer the cooler end Humidity: 60–75% Ventilation: High — essential for this genus Diet: Leaf litter, white rotten wood, lichen, moss, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell for calcium Pastel Isopods: Overview Ardentiella "Pastel" is one of the most sought-after morphs in the Ardentiella genus, and it's not hard to see why. The colouration is genuinely unlike most other isopods — soft, muted tones in the pastel range rather than the bold, saturated colours you see in morphs like Ember Bee or Lava. The exact palette varies between individuals and even between broods, which is one of the more exciting aspects of keeping a colony. Each new generation can produce slightly different colour expressions, giving you an evolving display rather than a static one. Like all Ardentiella (formerly classified under Merulanella before the genus was revised), Pastels are Vietnamese isopods that share the same fundamental care requirements across all morphs. If you already keep Batman, Ember Bee, Lava, Tricolor, or any other Ardentiella, the husbandry will be identical. The only things that change between morphs are appearance and price — and Pastel sits at the top end of both. These are large, active, bold isopods. They're semi-arboreal — they climb, they explore, and they spend time in the open during the day as well as at night. That visibility is a major part of the appeal, especially combined with their colouration. Most isopod species spend the majority of their time hidden. Ardentiella don't. Why They're Rated Hard The same two factors that challenge keepers with every Ardentiella morph apply here: Ventilation vs humidity. Ardentiella need the enclosure to be humid enough for their comfort but airy enough that moisture doesn't become stagnant. The substrate should be able to dry out at the surface without remaining permanently wet throughout. You need cross-ventilation — mesh vents on opposite sides of the enclosure — so that air moves through rather than sitting. Stagnant humid air kills Ardentiella faster than almost anything else. This is the single most important thing to get right. Frass buildup. Ardentiella are notably sensitive to their own waste accumulating in the substrate. As frass builds up, it raises substrate acidity, and colonies can crash quickly once this passes a threshold. Replace the substrate every 6 months at minimum. If it starts looking dark, compacted, or spent before then, swap it out early. The CB advantage. Captive bred Ardentiella are dramatically easier than wild caught. The genus has a reputation for being fragile, but that reputation comes largely from WC animals imported in bulk that often arrive stressed and fail to establish. CB populations that have been stabilised over several generations breed readily and are much more forgiving. If you're buying from us, you're getting CB stock, and that makes a real difference to your chances of success. Enclosure The enclosure must be escape-proof. Ardentiella — especially mancae and small juveniles — can climb smooth vertical plastic like cockroaches. If there's a gap in the lid, they will find it. Use a tight-fitting lid and check for openings. These are semi-arboreal isopods that actively use vertical space. Provide a mix of horizontal hides and vertical climbing surfaces: cork bark pieces (both flat and angled), lichen-covered twigs, and small branches. The more three-dimensional the enclosure, the more natural behaviour you'll observe and the more you'll actually see your isopods. Substrate Use a mix of forest humus (organic topsoil) with cork granules, crumbled white rotten hardwood, and dried leaf litter. The cork granules help with drainage and prevent the substrate from becoming waterlogged — an important detail for Ardentiella, where the substrate needs to be able to dry at the surface while retaining some moisture deeper down. Depth should be at least 8–10 cm. Top generously with whole leaves, moss, and pieces of soft rotting wood. Keep the substrate moist to the touch but not saturated. You should not be able to squeeze water out of it. The surface should be allowed to dry between mistings — it's the substrate depth that holds the humidity gradient, not a permanently wet surface. The substrate is part of the diet. They eat it. Use quality ingredients, and replace it completely every 6 months to prevent frass accumulation. Temperature 19–26°C, with the cooler end generally being better. Ardentiella can suffer in heat — prolonged temperatures above 26°C can stress a colony. During UK summers, if your house gets warm, plan for this. Some Ardentiella keepers use wine coolers or climate-controlled rooms during heatwaves. In winter, most UK houses will naturally sit within the ideal range without additional heating. If your room regularly drops below 18°C, a low-wattage heat mat on a thermostat placed on the side of the enclosure (not underneath) can help. Diet The primary diet is leaf litter and white rotten wood — always keep these well stocked. Supplement with vegetables: courgette, baby corn, and sweet potato are reported favourites for Ardentiella. Occasional fruit can be offered. Moss and lichen are both eaten and appreciated. Protein is important — offer gammarus shrimp, fish flakes, or freeze-dried bloodworm once or twice a week. Calcium should always be available. Cuttlebone left permanently in the enclosure is the simplest approach. Ardentiella consume noticeably more calcium than many other genera, so keep it topped up. Remove uneaten fresh food within a day. Mould in an Ardentiella enclosure is something to actively prevent. Breeding Captive bred Ardentiella breed at a fair to prolific rate once established. Growth is slow, so don't expect rapid colony expansion. A starting group of 5 gives a reasonable chance of both sexes being represented, though the 10-pack option provides a stronger foundation. One of the pleasures of breeding Pastel specifically is the colour variation between broods. The pastel palette can shift and vary across generations, so each new batch of juveniles has the potential to surprise you. This makes colony-watching more engaging than with morphs where every individual looks essentially identical. No special triggers are needed for breeding — consistent, correct husbandry is sufficient. Good ventilation, clean substrate, varied diet, appropriate temperature.

Phoenix Isopods have their origin in Vietnam. Their name is based on their appearance. They exhibit the colour variations of red, black and yellow, which are predominant in the mythical bird phoenix. They are considered a superb display species. They are extremely rare to find. Once they are established in the enclosure, they can easily be bred. Care needs to be taken regarding the enclosure, as these species are more active than most other species of isopods. Key Points Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Merulanells sp. Phoenix Difficulty Level: Hard Size: 2CM Max. Rarity: Rare Temperature: 18-24˚C Humidity Level: Medium Preferred Foods: Leaf litter, decayed wood, cuttlefish bone, limestone, etc. An Overview Phoenix Isopods are a highly colourful species of isopods. The hard exoskeleton provides both protection and aesthetic appeal to these isopods. The colouration of the exoskeleton makes them a significant choice for the enclosures. They are a highly active category of species. They need large spaces within the enclosures to move around. They have a very similar appearance to that of Merulanella tricolor isopods. But they are different in several aspects. The original climate these species are accustomed to is tropical. Hence, they require moisture and plenty of ventilation to survive in an enclosure. They can tolerate humid environments easily. Care should be taken because their temperatures should stay high enough and stay cool. Phoenix isopods are extremely rare to find. Hence, they are a species of isopods in demand by several collectors. Once established in a vivarium, they breed comparatively similar to most other species of isopods. The general pattern followed by merulanella isopods for feeding must also be followed for Phoenix isopods. Hence, decaying wood and leaf litter forms the basic diet for these isopods. Cuttlefish bone, fish food, limestone, etc., can act as supplements to improve their growth. Phoenix Isopods: Basic Care Phoenix Isopods can be taken care of through the following points: The tropical origin of Phoenix isopods allows them to survive in hot environments. They can also withstand some amount of coldness. Isopods coming from tropical environments require moisture to stay close to their origins. Phoenix isopods require a solid enclosure, and they are extremely rare to find. Hence, they are an advanced species for seasoned collectors. Their breeding capability is at par with most other species of isopods. Due to their tropical origins, Phoenix isopods require a great level of ventilation. Burrowing is a popular practice with these isopods. Hence, they prefer to have hiding spots within their enclosure. Preferred diet choices include leaf litter, decaying wood, cuttlefish bone, fish bone, etc. The ideal room temperature for these species ranges between 18-24˚C. Phoenix Isopods: Feeding This particular species of isopods has a variety of food items to choose from. Even though they are considered an advanced species that is extremely rare to find, they are found under tropical conditions. Hence, their staple diets includes both leaf litter and decaying wood. Their dietary patterns are similar to many other species of isopods. A perfect environment should complement the diet these isopods follow in their consumption. Leaf litter and decaying wood are ideal for their consumption. These basic items are helpful for the longer survival of these isopods. The collector can provide additional supplements according to their own choice. The only factor to note is that it should be provided regularly. Vegetable peels, dried vegetables, fish food, etc., can be provided for these isopods regularly. They find moisture levels okay for their survival. But it should not exceed the levels of possible mold growth. Protein and calcium supplements can be provided depending on the collector's requirements. Cuttlefish bone, limestone, and fish food are all excellent supplements that can help these species of isopods grow well. Many of these products can be collected naturally or bought from diverse sources. Phoenix Isopods are considered a very active species of isopods. They require large, spaced enclosures to scourge the area actively. Ventilation is another vital aspect that must be noted before breeding these species. Phoenix Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Like many other isopods, phoenix isopods are also gifted with hard exoskeletons. The exoskeletons are both protective and exotic. They have the maximum growth close to 2 CM. Their exotic appearance is a gift of their diverse coloured patterns. This appearance makes them a species that is in high demand. They require a lot of ventilation in the space that they are kept. This is mainly due to their natural environment being tropical. Moisture retention is also considered a vital aspect of caring for these isopods. They breed at good rates once established. Phoenix Isopods: Habitat Habitats are crucial aspects for the development of any isopods. As these are collected species from natural environments, the enclosures where they are kept should be replicated similarly to their origins. Providing basic habitat is a relatively easy task for any collectors. Phoenix isopods are extremely rare to find, even within their original habitats. But they are a species that can be maintained easily. Ensuring a proper habitat will result in more isopods breeding faster. Humid environments are highly preferred by Phoenix isopods. As their origin is tropical, they can tolerate room temperature easily. A thermometer should be regularly used to assess the room temperature of the habitat. An important factor is that the temperature should not exceed or decrease beyond the expected level of 18-24⁰C. It can adversely affect their metabolism. Maintaining moisture within the enclosure is a practice that should be kept for the ideal survival of these species. Supported by a number of hiding spots can enable the strong breeding of phoenix isopods in large numbers. Phoenix isopods are a heavily active species of isopods. Providing them ample space within the enclosure is crucial for their breeding. Phoenix Isopods: Substrate Mix Just like every other isopod, substrate mixtures are available for Phoenix isopods as well. Both natural substrates and artificial substrates are available for these isopods. Some of the options for a natural substrate mix include- leaf litter, decaying wood, dried vegetables, etc. Artificial substrate mixtures will consist of both protein and calcium supplements that can enhance their growth. The most important factor to consider in utilizing substrates is that it should ensure the survival of all species within the enclosure. Substrates should not hinder the development of any other species. Natural supplements like leaf litter and decaying wood should be completely pesticide-free to ensure that no toxic chemicals are present within the environment. Burrowing is a popular activity within these species. Hence, providing ample hiding spots is important for their breeding. As part of their protein and calcium supplements in substrate, cuttlefish bone, fish food, limestone etc., should be provided. These food items can improve their growth to greater levels. 

Compared to other isopods, Ardentiella tricolour isopods are rarely sighted. They require warmer temperatures and stable environments for their survival. They make a brilliant display species. Tricolour Isopods: A Glimpse ·       Origin: Vietnam ·       Scientific Name: Merulanella sp. ·       Difficulty Level: Medium ·       Size: 13MM to 0.55 IN. ·       Rarity: Low/ Medium ·       Temperature: 20⁰C to 26⁰C ·       Humidity: 60-70% ·       Favourite Foods: Fruits, Vegetables Tricolour Isopods: An Overview Merulanella Tricolour Isopods are a species of terrestrial isopods. They are commonly called pill bugs or woodlice. As the name suggests, they have a very peculiar colouration. They are highly distinct from other species of isopods. They mostly have a tricolour pattern, which includes shades of yellow, black and red. A hard exoskeleton covers their oval-shaped body. They are gifted two pairs of antennae. They have seven pairs of legs. Their natural habitat is found to be around tropical and subtropical regions. Their distribution is thus minimal. They are most likely found in the tropical areas. This limitation in their distribution makes them a less-encountered species of isopods. To feed tricolour isopods, the best options are a mix of vegetables, fruits, and decaying leaves. Fish flakes and commercial isopod food can be provided as supplement feeds. They rely on moist environments for their survival. Tricolour Isopods: Basic Care The following instructions can be helpful in providing the best care for Tricolour isopods. ·       Provide a suitable habitat- Combining organic materials like sphagnum moss, leaf litter and coconut fibre can create a moist substrate ideal for their habitat. ·       Maintaining dampness-Excessive moisture should be avoided as it is harmful for tricolour isopods. ·       Hiding spots- This provides more naturality to the enclosure. They behave more naturally when they feel secure. ·       Temperature- An ideal temperature of 20-26 degree should be maintained. ·       Humidity- Humidity levels should be between 60-70%. ·       Diet- A balanced diet plant matter, invertibrates and fungi should be fed to the isopods to ensure their survival. ·       Specialized diets available in the market can be used to feed them. ·       Monitor the conditions regularly using thermometer and hygrometer. ·       Since they can climb glass and plastic, their enclosures should not have openings near the lids and doors. Tricolour Isopods: Feeding Tricolour isopods are mainly identified as detritivores. They consume organic decaying matter. They can also feed on fruits, vegetables, leaf litter, rotting wood, etc. They are crucial in breaking down dead plant material, contributing to nutrient recycling. To ensure their survival, providing them with an optimal environment is crucial. Leaf litter can be considered an easy source of food. Leaves from different trees can be collected and fed to them in their enclosures. One of the main things to notice while feeding isopods is that the leaves should be pesticide-free. Other organic materials like fruits and vegetables are also considered ideal sources of energy for these isopods. Any food given has to be finely chopped or grated for easy consumption by isopods. Tricolour isopods prefer protein rich foods as well. Crushed dog or cat food, shrimp pellets and fish are highly recommended for the welfare of the isopods. Excess consumption should be avoided in any case. If it happens, it might lead to specific health issues among them. Whatever food the isopods consume, leftovers should be removed immediately. Mold can develop in leftover food, which can cause health issues among the tricolour isopods. Tricolour Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour ·       Tricolour isopods grow up to 0.55 Inches in length. ·       The species' major color combinations are red, yellow and black. ·       They make for a great display. ·       They are found in groups of five to six. ·       They require more warmer temperatures when compared to other isopod species. ·       If kept under optimal conditions, they are adorable as pets. ·       Once a colony is established for them, they live for a considerable period. ·       Tricolour isopods are considered as prolific breeders. A single female produces a large number of females. ·       Monitoring the reproductive patterns of these isopods is vital, as they are considered vulnerable in their reproductive phase. Tricolour Isopods: Habitat Providing an ideal habitat for tricolour isopods is fundamental for their survival. As pets, they make for a great display. An optimal environment has to be maintained in their enclosures to maintain their beautiful features and colour-patterns in their body. Tricolour isopods survive in the ideal temperature of 20-27⁰C (70-78⁰F). Any temperature above or below this temperature can mess with their metabolism. Regular monitoring of temperature is required to maintain the optimal levels of temperature. The use of a thermometer is preferred for this. It is highly advised to use a heat map or heat lamp to regulate the levels. People who make enclosures for tricolour isopods should also consider the required humidity levels. The ideal humidity level for the species is between 70-80%. A humidifier should be used to mist the enclosure daily. At the same time, excess moisture should be avoided. If the enclosure is moisturized excessively, mold growth might occur, which is harmful for the tricolour isopods. Along with a humidifier, a hygrometer should also be used to maintain the optimal humidity range. Tricolour isopods are omnivorous creatures. They feed on a variety of organic matter, including decayed fruits and vegetables, shrimp pellets, fish, etc. They are known for their ability to crawl on both glass and plastic. Hence, the tiny gaps that might appear between doors and glasses should be sealed. Tricolour Isopods: Substrate Mix A substrate is an ideal substance that aids the growth of an organism. It can help provide or maintain the optimal environment for your pet creatures. In the case of tricolour isopods, using the correct substrate mixture is crucial. The mixture should be provided accordingly since these isopods are mainly found in tropical climatic conditions. Tricolour isopods require a substrate that retains moisture. Leaf litter is seen as the most ideal form of substrate for this purpose. Leaves can be easily collected from a variety of trees to provide the ideal shelter for tricolour isopods. However, these leaves should be free of pesticides or chemicals. Additionally, sphagnum moss and coconut fiber can be utilized for their survival. In their ideal condition, hiding spots are also necessary. This substrate mixture of coconut fibre, leaf litter, and sphagnum moss offers natural hiding spots for the isopods. This creates a homely feeling for the isopods, who feel that they are in their natural habitats. Too much dampening of the substrate mix is not advisable in any enclosures. Care should be taken when using substrate mix, as it could cause waterlogging. Such scenarios should be avoided at all costs to ensure the survival of tricolour isopods.