Cubaris Isopods (54)

White Shark Isopods (Cubaris sp. 'White Shark') are a delightful dwarf Cubaris species that pack incredible visual appeal into a tiny package. Originating from Thailand, these miniature isopods display a striking tricolour pattern - orange, white, and dark blue-black sections arranged in sequential bands that make them genuinely eye-catching despite their diminutive size. Don't let the intimidating name fool you - at just 8mm fully grown, these are among the smallest Cubaris species available. What they lack in size, they more than make up for in personality, colouration, and breeding potential. Once established, White Sharks are surprisingly prolific and make an excellent gateway species for keepers wanting to move from beginner isopods into the world of Cubaris. Their distinctive appearance has earned them cult status in the hobby. The combination of a bright orange "face," white midsection, and dark rear creates a pattern unlike almost any other isopod. Some individuals show variations where the black appears more navy blue, or the orange leans towards red - genetic variation that adds interest to any colony. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'White Shark' Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium Size: Up to 8mm (dwarf species) Temperature: 24-28°C Humidity: 60-80% Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview White Shark Isopods belong to the Cubaris genus - a group renowned for attractive colouration, the characteristic "duck face" appearance, and the ability to roll into a perfect ball when threatened. While many Cubaris species carry reputations for being difficult and expensive, White Sharks are refreshingly accessible. They're one of the few Cubaris that combine stunning looks with genuinely beginner-friendly care. Their small size is the first thing keepers notice. Fully grown adults reach approximately 8mm (around 1/4 inch), making them true dwarf isopods. This compact size makes them perfect for smaller terrariums where larger species would overwhelm the space. Despite being tiny, established colonies are surprisingly visible - particularly at feeding time when they'll swarm a piece of carrot or vegetable. White Sharks originate from tropical Thailand, where they inhabit humid environments rich in decomposing organic matter. They've adapted to life in consistently moist conditions with high lime content in the soil - important considerations when setting up their enclosure. One of their best qualities is their breeding potential. Unlike some Cubaris species that are notoriously slow or difficult to breed, White Sharks reproduce readily once established and comfortable. A small starter colony can multiply significantly within 2-3 months under proper care. Basic Care White Shark Isopods require typical Cubaris care: warm temperatures, high humidity, and attention to environmental stability. They're more forgiving than premium Cubaris species like Rubber Duckies but still need proper conditions to thrive. Temperature should be maintained between 24-28°C (75-80°F). Consistent warmth encourages activity and breeding. Avoid temperature fluctuations where possible. Humidity is crucial - aim for 60-80%. The enclosure should be kept predominantly moist (approximately 80% damp, 20% drier), but never waterlogged. Too much dampness causes moulting issues and sudden die-offs, a common problem with Cubaris species. The key is maintaining humidity without creating soggy conditions. Unlike some Cubaris that prefer very low ventilation, White Sharks benefit from moderate airflow. Small ventilation holes help prevent stagnation and mould while maintaining necessary humidity levels. Too little ventilation causes problems; too much drops humidity too quickly. Finding the balance is important. Provide a deep substrate (7-10cm / 3-4 inches) to allow for their natural burrowing behaviour. White Sharks are enthusiastic burrowers and spend much of their time beneath the surface, particularly when preparing to moult or breed. A smaller enclosure is actually preferable when starting with a new colony. Being dwarf isopods, if they're too spread out in a large space, they'll struggle to find each other for breeding. A 6-8 quart container is ideal for a starter culture of 10-20 individuals. Feeding White Shark Isopods are detritivores with hearty appetites relative to their tiny size. They require a high-nutrition diet to support their active metabolism and breeding. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak is excellent) Rotting white wood pieces Sphagnum moss Lichens and forest moss Supplementary foods (offered regularly, at least twice weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, cucumber, squash Fish food/flakes Dried shrimp, minnows, or insects (protein source) Commercial isopod foods Calcium and protein supplementation is particularly important for this species. White Sharks are notably protein-hungry compared to some isopods. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Limestone powder or pieces Crushed oyster shell Eggshells Adding limestone to the enclosure mimics their natural Thai habitat, where they live in high lime-content soils. A useful observation tip: placing a small piece of carrot in the enclosure will quickly become "caked" with White Sharks feeding - adults and babies alike. This is an excellent way to observe your colony without disturbing them by digging through the substrate. Feed protein sources on the drier side of the enclosure, as they spoil quickly in humid conditions and can attract pests. Appearance and Behaviour White Shark Isopods are instantly recognisable for their striking tricolour pattern. From front to back, they display sequential bands of colour: a bright orange "face" and head region, a white midsection, and a dark blue-black rear section. This creates a visually striking contrast that's genuinely impressive despite their tiny size. Colour intensity and exact patterning varies between individuals due to natural genetic variation. Some specimens show more navy blue than black, others lean towards red-orange rather than pure orange. This variation adds visual interest to colonies. Adults reach approximately 8mm in length - true dwarf status among isopods. Their bodies show the characteristic rounded, segmented shape of Cubaris species with the adorable "duck face" that makes the genus so popular. Behaviourally, White Sharks are shy and reclusive, spending much of their time burrowed in the substrate. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most of their foraging at night, though established colonies will venture out during the day - particularly when food is available. Like all Cubaris, they can roll into a tight, complete ball (conglobation) when threatened. When disturbed, they tend to scatter quickly and seek hiding spots rather than curling up immediately. They're social creatures that do well in groups. High-density colonies are actually more active and visible than sparse ones, as the isopods feel more secure with others around. Habitat White Shark Isopods originate from tropical Thailand and require conditions that replicate their humid, warm native environment. For housing, use a plastic container with ventilation or a glass terrarium. Smaller containers (6-8 quart) are actually preferable for starter cultures - dwarf isopods in large spaces take longer to find each other and begin breeding. Temperature: Maintain 24-28°C consistently. Warmth encourages activity and reproduction. Humidity: Aim for 60-80%, with approximately 80% of the enclosure kept moist and 20% drier. High humidity is essential, but avoid waterlogged conditions. Ventilation: Moderate. Small ventilation holes help prevent stagnation and mould while maintaining humidity. A secure lid with mesh-covered vents works well. Substrate depth: Provide 7-10cm (3-4 inches) minimum to allow comfortable burrowing. White Sharks are enthusiastic burrowers and spend considerable time beneath the surface. Hiding spots: Unlike some Cubaris that congregate under cork bark, White Sharks typically prefer burrowing in the substrate itself. Piles of leaf litter and decaying wood provide cover without requiring cork bark (though it can be included if desired). Avoid direct sunlight and extreme temperature fluctuations. Substrate Mix Creating the right substrate is essential for White Shark success. The mix provides food, maintains humidity, allows burrowing, and should include calcium-rich elements to mimic their natural habitat. Option 1 - ABG Mix Base: ABG (Atlanta Botanical Garden) mix provides an excellent foundation with good drainage, water retention, nutrient retention, and compaction resistance. Standard ABG mix components: Sphagnum moss - 1 part Tree fern fibre - 2 parts Orchid bark - 2 parts Peat moss - 1 part Charcoal - 1 part Layer on top: oak leaf litter, cottonwood bark, live moss Option 2 - Alternative Mix: Coconut humus/coir Mixed soil Wooden bark pieces Orchid moss Sphagnum moss Essential additions to either mix: Limestone powder (mimics their high-lime Thai habitat) Cuttlefish bone pieces Rotting white wood Generous leaf litter covering Create a thick substrate base (7-10cm minimum) to support their burrowing behaviour. The substrate should feel damp when squeezed but not dripping wet. Adding decaying wood pieces, cork bark, and piles of leaf litter helps with excess moisture control and provides food sources. Breeding White Shark Isopods are among the more prolific Cubaris species once established. They breed readily under proper conditions, making them an excellent choice for keepers wanting to build a colony. New colonies typically need about a month to acclimate to their environment before breeding begins. During this settling-in period, focus on maintaining stable conditions and don't expect immediate reproduction. Once established, White Sharks can multiply quickly. A starter colony of 10-12 individuals can grow significantly within 2-3 months under optimal care. They're described as "fairly prolific on a regular basis" once conditions are right. For optimal breeding success, maintain temperatures at the higher end of their range (26-28°C), keep humidity at 60-80%, provide deep substrate for burrowing, ensure constant calcium availability, and offer regular protein supplementation. Females carry fertilised eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) until they hatch. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without separation, though some keepers prefer to move juveniles to prevent any risk of predation in crowded conditions. Monitor colony size as breeding progresses. White Sharks reproduce well, and populations can grow quickly. Be prepared to upgrade enclosure size or split colonies as numbers increase. White Shark Isopods as Bioactive Cleanup Crew White Shark Isopods make excellent additions to bioactive terrariums, efficiently processing organic waste despite their small size. Their diminutive stature actually makes them well-suited to smaller terrariums where larger isopod species would be overwhelming. As detritivores, they eagerly consume leaf litter, decaying wood, leftover food, faecal matter, and decomposing plant material. This natural cleanup behaviour helps maintain enclosure hygiene and reduces mould risk. Their high breeding rate means colonies can sustain themselves as a cleanup crew while potentially providing a calcium-rich food source for small terrarium inhabitants that can safely consume them. For bioactive use, ensure the enclosure provides appropriate humidity and temperature for White Sharks while meeting the needs of other inhabitants. Their preference for burrowing means they'll spend much time in the substrate, aerating it while processing organic matter.

Cubaris sp. "Panda King" is one of the most recognisable and popular Cubaris species in the hobby, named for their striking black and white colouration reminiscent of giant pandas. Originating from limestone caves in Vietnam, they've become a gateway species for many keepers entering the world of Cubaris isopods. Their attractive appearance, reasonable care requirements, and—at current pricing—exceptional value make them an obvious choice for anyone wanting to keep Cubaris without the steep costs and demanding husbandry of rarer species. Once established, they breed prolifically, making colony-building genuinely achievable. A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam (limestone caves, central and northern regions) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Panda King" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1-1.5 cm Rarity: Low to Medium (widely available) Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-27°C (70-80°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying vegetation, vegetables, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells Cubaris sp. Panda King: Introduction Panda King isopods originate from limestone caves and karst formations in central and northern Vietnam. These environments are characterised by high humidity, darkness, consistent temperatures, and calcium-rich substrates—conditions that directly inform their captive care requirements. The "Panda" name is apt. Their black and white patterning genuinely evokes the appearance of giant pandas, making them immediately recognisable even to people unfamiliar with isopods. This visual appeal, combined with relatively straightforward care compared to more demanding Cubaris species, has made them one of the most popular introductions to the genus. What distinguishes Panda Kings from many premium Cubaris is their willingness to breed once established. While some Cubaris species are notoriously slow and difficult to breed, Panda Kings produce offspring reliably under appropriate conditions. This means colonies actually grow rather than stagnating or declining—a genuine advantage for keepers wanting to build populations rather than simply maintain small groups indefinitely. At current sale pricing (60% off), they represent exceptional value. The opportunity to acquire Cubaris with genuine visual appeal at these prices makes them accessible to keepers who might otherwise be priced out of the genus entirely. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1-1.5 cm Distinctive black and white patterned exoskeleton The patterning genuinely resembles panda colouration—not a stretch Relatively soft exoskeleton compared to some species Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Compact, rounded body shape typical of Cubaris Pattern varies slightly between individuals but maintains the panda aesthetic Their size is modest—they're not large isopods—but their colouration makes them visually striking despite their compact dimensions. Behaviour Panda King isopods display typical Cubaris behaviours with characteristics that make them rewarding to keep. Activity patterns: Nocturnal. They're most active in darkness and prefer dim conditions. During the day, expect them to remain hidden in substrate or under cover. Evening and night hours bring increased activity. Temperament: Shy initially but become bolder once established. New colonies may hide extensively; settled colonies venture out more confidently. Patience during the establishment phase pays off. Conglobation: They roll into defensive balls when disturbed—classic isopod behaviour. This response is reliable. Burrowing: Active burrowers that dig into substrate seeking moisture and security. Deep substrate accommodates this natural behaviour and reduces stress. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They cluster together comfortably, forming loose colonies. Offspring stay near mothers initially, creating family groupings within the colony. Colony dynamics: Once established and comfortable, they breed actively. Colonies can grow substantially over time—a significant advantage over slow-breeding Cubaris species. Diet Panda King isopods are not fussy eaters and accept a wide variety of foods. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying plant matter Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato, squash Occasional fruits Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Commercial isopod foods Calcium requirements: Higher than many species—their limestone cave origins mean they're adapted to calcium-rich environments. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, crushed eggshells, or calcium powder generously. Inadequate calcium causes moulting problems and poor colony health. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports growth and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, or earthworm castings provide appropriate protein sources. Feeding approach: Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood as baseline food. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources regularly. They're good eaters but avoid overfeeding fresh foods—excess can attract pests. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Breeding Panda Kings are among the more reliable Cubaris breeders—a significant advantage. Breeding rate: Good once established. They're described as breeding "rapidly" once acclimated, which is accurate compared to many Cubaris species. Don't expect immediate results with new colonies, but established groups produce offspring consistently. Breeding behaviour: Males transfer sperm to females during mating. Females carry developing eggs, and juveniles emerge after approximately six weeks. Young stay close to mothers initially, forming family clusters within the colony. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-80%) Stable warm temperatures (22-26°C ideal) Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance during establishment Colony establishment: New colonies need time to acclimate before breeding begins. Keep them in appropriate conditions, minimise disturbance, and allow them to settle. Once comfortable, breeding follows naturally. Tips for success: Patience during establishment is essential. Resist the urge to constantly check on them or disturb the enclosure. Stable, undisturbed conditions encourage faster acclimation and breeding onset. Starting with larger groups (20+) provides better genetic diversity and faster colony establishment. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid limestone cave environment. Enclosure: A container with limited ventilation to maintain humidity. Plastic containers with minimal ventilation holes work well for culturing; glass enclosures allow viewing but require careful humidity management. Start with a smaller container during acclimation, then transfer to larger enclosures as colonies grow. Secure lids prevent escapes and maintain humidity levels. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—aim for 10cm (4 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout Crushed limestone generously incorporated (essential given their limestone cave origins) Hardwood leaf litter layered on top (magnolia leaves are excellent) Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for moisture retention The limestone/calcium content is particularly important. Their natural habitat is calcium-rich; replicate this in the substrate. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-80%: Maintain consistently moist substrate Provide moisture gradient (some areas slightly drier, some damper) Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches retain moisture between misting Limited ventilation preserves humidity Avoid waterlogging—moist, not wet. Excess standing water causes problems. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Restrict airflow to maintain humidity. Small ventilation holes rather than mesh lids. Their cave origins mean they're adapted to still, humid air—excessive ventilation drops humidity to harmful levels. Lighting: They strongly prefer darkness. Keep enclosures in dark or dimly lit locations. Bright light causes stress and inhibits natural behaviour. If displaying them, position enclosures away from direct light. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark sections Dried oak leaves Magnolia leaves (excellent for moisture retention and shelter) Sphagnum moss patches Limestone pieces (functional and aesthetic) Multiple hiding options throughout the enclosure reduce stress and encourage natural behaviour. Temperature: 21-27°C (70-80°F). Room temperature in heated UK homes typically works. Avoid cold locations and temperature extremes. Consistent warmth supports activity and breeding. Springtails: Highly recommended. High-humidity environments can develop mould; springtails consume mould and maintain enclosure hygiene. They coexist peacefully with Panda Kings and benefit overall enclosure health. Bioactive Use Panda King isopods can function in bioactive setups meeting their requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko enclosures Snail terrariums (compatible humidity requirements) Advantages: Attractive appearance adds visual interest Reliable breeding means populations recover and grow Effective decomposers Soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional feeders for small animals Peaceful coexistence with other cleanup crew Considerations: Require consistently high humidity Soft exoskeletons mean some animals may eat them (advantage or disadvantage depending on intent) Not suitable for arid setups Need establishment time before thriving As feeders: Their relatively soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional feeders for poison dart frogs and other small insectivores. However, at their price point (even discounted), dedicated feeder colonies of cheaper species may be more economical for regular feeding purposes. Tank Mates Panda Kings coexist well with appropriate tank mates. Compatible: Springtails (highly recommended—mutual benefits) Snails (similar humidity requirements) Dart frogs (though predation will occur) Small tropical geckos Considerations: Tank mates should share humidity requirements Predatory animals will eat them—factor this into stocking decisions Mixing isopod species requires adequate space and resources to prevent competition Suitability Panda King isopods suit a wide range of keepers. Excellent choice for: First-time Cubaris keepers Those wanting attractive isopods at accessible prices Keepers building breeding colonies Humid bioactive setups Anyone wanting Cubaris without premium pricing Beginners with some basic isopod experience Not ideal for: Complete beginners with zero isopod experience (start with P. scaber) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers unable to maintain consistent humidity Those wanting immediate results (establishment takes time) Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're considered beginner-friendly within the Cubaris genus—not as forgiving as hardy Porcellio species, but significantly more accessible than demanding premium Cubaris. Keepers who can maintain stable humidity and resist over-handling will succeed. Expectations: Expect shy behaviour initially that improves as colonies establish. Expect attractive isopods that reward patient, hands-off husbandry with steady population growth. Don't expect instant breeding or tolerance of poor conditions. With appropriate care, Panda Kings deliver on their reputation as an excellent introduction to Cubaris keeping.

Cubaris sp. "Rubber Ducky" is the isopod that changed everything. Discovered in 2017 in the limestone caves of Thailand, these distinctive little crustaceans—with their yellow faces resembling rubber duck toys—sparked the entire "designer isopod" phenomenon. They remain among the most sought-after species in the hobby, commanding premium prices and significant attention. They're not beginner isopods, requiring specific humidity, calcium, and patience, but for keepers ready for the challenge, they're genuinely rewarding animals to maintain. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (limestone caves) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Rubber Ducky" Common Names: Rubber Ducky, Rubber Ducky Isopod, Ducky Family: Armadillidae Maintenance required: Medium to Challenging Average Size: Up to 18mm (approximately 1.5-2cm) Rarity: High (still relatively rare despite popularity) Temperature: 22-28°C (72-82°F) Ventilation: Medium (good airflow despite high humidity) Humidity: 70-90% (high) Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Calcium (limestone essential), protein twice weekly Rubber Ducky Isopods: Introduction The discovery of Rubber Ducky isopods in Thai limestone caves in 2017 transformed the isopod hobby. Before them, isopods were largely seen as utilitarian cleanup crews or curiosities. After them, terms like "designer isopod" entered the vocabulary, prices climbed into triple digits, and an entire collecting culture emerged around Cubaris species. Their appeal is immediately obvious. The yellow colouration on their heads, combined with their facial structure, genuinely resembles a tiny rubber duck toy. It's not marketing exaggeration—they really do look like miniature bath toys. This distinctive appearance, combined with their rarity and the challenges of breeding them, has kept demand (and prices) high years after their discovery. Rubber Ducky isopods originate from limestone caves in Thailand, where they inhabit dark, humid environments rich in calcium. This cave-dwelling origin shapes their care requirements: they need high humidity, abundant calcium sources, deep substrate for burrowing, and minimal disturbance. They're not the most difficult isopods to keep, but they're less forgiving than hardy beginner species like Porcellio or Armadillidium. The species remains taxonomically undescribed—"Cubaris sp." indicates it hasn't been formally named scientifically. This is common with recently discovered isopods, and "Rubber Ducky" functions as the trade name that identifies this specific form. Rubber Ducky Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 15-18mm in length Distinctive yellow colouration on face/head region Body colour ranges from brown to grey with darker patches "Duck face" appearance—the yellow head genuinely resembles a rubber duck's bill Some individuals show painted/patterned tails Body divided into seven segments, each with a pair of legs Two specialised legs adapted for burrowing Two antennae with small sensory projections (cerci) for navigation Hard exoskeleton requiring calcium for proper development Can roll into a tight defensive ball (conglobation) The yellow "duck face" is the defining feature. When viewed from the front, their tiny heads genuinely evoke a duckling's face, complete with what looks like a yellow bill. This isn't subtle—it's immediately apparent why they earned their name. Behaviour Rubber Ducky isopods display typical cave-dwelling Cubaris behaviours, characterised by shyness and burrowing. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal. They spend most daylight hours hidden in substrate or under cover, emerging mainly at night to feed. You'll see them more often as colony numbers increase, but expect limited daytime visibility. Temperament: Calm and non-aggressive. They don't mind the presence of compatible tankmates and generally ignore other inhabitants. Their placid nature contributes to their appeal as display animals. Defensive behaviour: When threatened or disturbed, they roll into a tight ball and may remain conglobated for extended periods. This is normal—give them time and they'll eventually uncurl. Burrowing: Strong burrowing instinct. They dig deep into substrate, sometimes spending significant time fully submerged before and after moulting. This behaviour is essential for their wellbeing—provide adequate substrate depth (15cm minimum) to accommodate it. Shyness: Notably shy and secretive, even by Cubaris standards. They do better when not disturbed frequently. Resist the temptation to dig through substrate looking for them—let them settle and they'll eventually become more visible. Human interaction: Given time, they can become surprisingly tolerant of handling. Established animals may allow keepers to pick them up and will spend time resting on hands. This takes patience—new colonies need months to settle before they're comfortable with interaction. Diet Rubber Ducky isopods are detritivores with specific nutritional requirements, particularly regarding calcium. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple—always available, pesticide-free) Decaying white-rotted wood (always available) Forest moss Lichen Supplementary foods: Vegetables: cucumber, sweet potato, courgette, carrots, pumpkin Fruits: in moderation (banana, apple, mango, watermelon) Fish flakes Commercial isopod foods Protein (essential—provide twice weekly): Dried shrimp/shrimp shells Fish flakes or pellets Freeze-dried minnows Dried insects (crickets) Protein variety keeps slower-growing Cubaris species breeding consistently. Rotate protein sources rather than relying on a single type. Calcium (critical): As limestone cave dwellers, Rubber Ducky isopods have high calcium requirements. Calcium carbonate is essential for building and maintaining their exoskeletons. Provide multiple calcium sources: Limestone chunks (preferred—mimics natural habitat) Cuttlebone Crushed eggshells Crushed coral Sea coral Garden lime (calcium carbonate powder) Colonies "come alive" with limestone as their primary calcium source. If you notice thin growth, soft bodies, or poor moults, increase calcium availability immediately. Feeding notes: Small portions once or twice weekly for supplements Remove uneaten food promptly to prevent mould Avoid sweet insect jelly cups—not needed and can unbalance diet If food goes untouched, check temperature and moisture before trying different foods Rubber Ducky Isopods: Breeding Breeding Rubber Ducky isopods requires patience. They're slow reproducers compared to many isopod species, and establishing breeding colonies takes time. Breeding characteristics: Slow to establish—may take months before breeding begins Once acclimated, they breed year-round Typical brood sizes: 2-10 offspring Advanced keepers report larger broods of 10-20+ Females reach sexual maturity at approximately 3 months Full maturity takes 8-12 months Eggs hatch within approximately two weeks of laying Lifespan: several years with proper care Acclimation period: The establishment phase can feel painfully slow. New colonies need time to settle into their environment before breeding begins. This is normal for Cubaris—don't assume something is wrong if you don't see babies for several months. Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (25-28°C optimal for breeding) Consistent high humidity (75-90%) Abundant calcium (limestone essential) Deep substrate for burrowing during breeding and moulting Minimal disturbance—let them settle Aged leaf litter Varied protein sources Why they're expensive: The combination of slow breeding, challenging establishment, and high demand keeps prices elevated. They're also slow-growing, taking months to reach sellable size. This limits supply even as demand remains strong. Rubber Ducky Isopods: Habitat Setup Replicating their limestone cave environment is key to success with Rubber Ducky isopods. Enclosure options: Lidded plastic tubs (easier humidity control—recommended for breeding colonies) Glass terrariums (better display but require careful ventilation management) Minimum size: 6 quart/litre for starter colonies Ventilation: Medium. Despite high humidity requirements, good airflow is critical. Stagnant air promotes mould and can cause problems. Create ventilation holes on alternating sides of plastic containers. Glass terrariums need careful balance—enough airflow to keep air fresh without excessive drying. Substrate: Deep, moisture-retaining substrate is essential for their burrowing behaviour. Recommended mix: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss Forest humus Decaying hardwood/wood mulch Limestone chunks or calcium carbonate mixed throughout Aged leaf litter (top layer and mixed in) Depth: Minimum 15cm (6 inches). They burrow deep, especially during moulting and breeding. Deeper substrate also retains moisture more consistently. Moisture gradient: Keep approximately one-third of the enclosure moist (not wet), with the remainder slightly drier. This allows self-regulation. Some keepers maintain "moist side and slightly less moist side" rather than dramatic wet/dry contrast. Humidity: 70-90%—high humidity is essential: Use a hygrometer to monitor levels Mist with dechlorinated water as needed Sphagnum moss helps retain moisture Their respiratory system relies on moisture (cutaneous gas exchange through pleopodal lungs) Temperature: 22-28°C (72-82°F): 25-28°C optimal for breeding Avoid temperature fluctuations Stable conditions more important than hitting exact numbers Room temperature in heated UK homes often sufficient Water chemistry (if misting heavily): pH: 8.0-8.5 (slightly alkaline, mimicking limestone environment) They're sensitive to high acidity—limestone in substrate helps buffer pH Lighting: They don't require special lighting. As cave dwellers, they prefer darker conditions. If using terrarium lights for display, ensure light doesn't shine directly on isopods and provide plenty of shaded hiding spots. Décor: Cork bark (essential hiding spots) Leaf litter layers (food and cover) Rotting wood pieces Moss patches Limestone chunks (calcium source and habitat enrichment) Multiple hiding spots throughout enclosure Bioactive Use Rubber Ducky isopods can function in bioactive setups but are typically kept as display animals rather than utilitarian cleanup crews. Strengths: Contribute to nutrient cycling and decomposition Attractive display animals Calm temperament suits community setups Break down decaying organic matter Limitations: Slow breeding means population recovery takes time if predation occurs High value makes them expensive to use as cleanup crews Shy nature means limited daytime visibility Specific humidity requirements may not match all bioactive setups Better suited as display specimens than working cleanup crews Bioactive considerations: Can coexist with springtails (which help with mould control) Avoid housing with predatory inhabitants that might eat them Their value makes them better suited to dedicated isopod enclosures than mixed vivariums Adding composting worms can increase microbial diversity in substrate Best use: Rubber Ducky isopods are primarily display and breeding animals. Their price point and care requirements make them better suited to dedicated setups where you can observe and appreciate them rather than as anonymous cleanup crews in larger vivariums. Suitability Rubber Ducky isopods suit intermediate to advanced keepers ready for Cubaris care requirements. Good choice for: Keepers with isopod experience wanting iconic Cubaris species Those who can maintain consistent high humidity Patient keepers willing to wait for slow establishment Hobbyists attracted to the distinctive "duck face" appearance Collectors wanting premium display animals Those prepared for the financial investment Less suited for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Those wanting fast-breeding cleanup crews Keepers unable to maintain stable humidity and temperature Anyone expecting immediate breeding results Budget-conscious buyers (premium pricing) Care level: Medium to Challenging. Sources vary—some describe them as "relatively easy to look after" once acclimated, others rate them as "challenging" with "slow" reproduction. The truth lies in between. They're not the most difficult isopods, but they're less forgiving than beginner species. Key challenges include: maintaining specific humidity without causing mould, providing adequate calcium, patience during slow establishment, and resisting the urge to disturb them frequently. Value: At £47.50 for 5, £90 for 10, or £170 for 20, Rubber Ducky isopods remain premium-priced. This reflects their continued rarity, slow breeding, and strong demand. Prices have decreased from the early days when they commanded even higher figures, but they're still among the more expensive isopods available. For the iconic species that launched the designer isopod phenomenon, many keepers consider the investment worthwhile. What to expect: Expect distinctive isopods with genuinely duck-like yellow faces that justify their name. Expect shy, nocturnal behaviour—they'll spend considerable time burrowed, especially initially. Expect a slow establishment period of several months before breeding begins. Expect to maintain careful humidity and provide abundant calcium. Expect to resist the urge to dig through substrate looking for them. Expect, eventually, the satisfaction of seeing babies appear and knowing your colony is thriving. Rubber Ducky isopods earned their reputation for good reason. They're attractive, distinctive, and genuinely charming animals. They're also demanding enough to feel like an accomplishment when you succeed with them. For keepers ready to move beyond beginner species into the world of designer Cubaris, they remain the definitive starting point—the species that started it all.

Unlike most popular isopods of European origin, the Red Panda isopods originate in the Asian continent. These relatively smaller-sized isopods are gaining high popularity as pets; thus, quality red panda king isopods are in high demand these days. Red Panda Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 1.2 centimeters Rarity: Low/ Medium Temperature: 70℉ to 80℉ Humidity: 70% to 80% Favourite Foods: Mango, Carrot An Overview Red Panda king isopods are pretty rare when compared to their counterparts. These Asian native isopods are characterized by their impressive colour combinations. They are available in multiple colour options and are ideal for kids-friendly starting pets. Being from the humid regions of Asia, they have to have a relatively high-humid enclosure. The highlight of these isopods is their fast breeding capabilities. They are ideal to be grown in both glass and plastic enclosures. Feeding a Red Panda isopod is extremely easy as they eat anything from dried leaves to decaying softwood matter and carrots to mangoes. A moderately humid atmosphere is the best for them, and avoiding exposure to extreme weather conditions is always ideal. Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the Red Panda isopods. Use a glass vivarium or plastic containers to house Red Panda isopods.   Keep the temperature of the container within 65 to 85 degrees.   It is crucial to maintain high humidity inside the enclosure.   You can keep the ventilation holes to a minimum to avoid humidity loss.   Avoid keeping the enclosure under direct light.   Place moss on a part of the enclosure and ensure it always has enough moisture.   Use dried leaves and softwood parts to feed the isopods.   Supply suitable calcium sources such as a clacium powder or cuttlebone.   You can also provide them with protein supplements or sprinkle eggshell powder above the isopod colony. Red Panda Isopods: Feeding The Red Panda isopods are primarily detritivores. That is, they like to consume dead and decaying matter. They also consume a wide variety of food items like leaf litter, rotting wood, etc.  They usually eat pretty voraciously. Being an active group, providing them with enough healthy supplements to maintain the best health is essential. You can use supplements of vegetables, protein, calcium, etc. One of the common mistakes that Red Panda isopod owners commit is overfeeding them. Overfeeding would be a mistake because of the highly humid conditions inside the enclosure.  Any food left in high humid conditions will quickly rot and cause mold to grow. This could spoil the balance inside the enclosure and lead to many consequences. So, feeding only enough food that the isopods can finish in a single sitting is always advisable. Red Panda isopods usually crave calcium food sources. You can use crushed limestone or eggshells to satisfy their calcium needs. Red Panda Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Red Panda isopods generally grow up to 1.2 cm in length.   They come in bold colour combinations that create much visual contrast.   The patterns are generally found in strips. There are other patterns also.   As vibrant colours are usually not found among them, they cost much less than brighter-coloured isopods like the Rubber Ducky isopod.   They exhibit a beautiful glow on their body when they are young. As they premature, this glow disappears gradually.   As they don’t grow into giant worms, they are ideal for terrariums and as small pets.   They also make great entry-level pets for children with their easy-to-care nature and small physique. Red Panda Isopods: Habitat Red Panda isopods prefer an overly humid habitat. So, it would be ideal if you could provide them with a humid atmosphere where little to no moisture loss happens. You can use a quality plastic container the size of a shoe box to keep the Red Panda isopod for the time being. Once the isopod becomes familiar with the atmospheric conditions, you can shift it to a dedicated enclosure. But when in the container and the enclosure, ensure that the number of air ventilation holes is minimal. Many air holes might lead to a drop in the inside humidity and cause issues for the isopod. Also, providing a good amount of options for them to burrow deep is preferable. They are observed to be good burrowers. They try to retain their body moisture by burrowing and taking cover deep. So, while creating an ideal habitat for them, provide enough ground cover for them to burrow deep. An important thing to remember is that the high humidity inside the enclosure would often invite pests. So, adding some springtails into the enclosure is advisable to prevent pests. Springtails are also great at avoiding mold.  The Red Panda isopods exhibit excellent health and breed pretty quickly if you maintain a moderate temperature between 70 to 80 Fahrenheit. Red Panda Isopods: Substrate Mix Choosing the right substrate mix is essential to maintain a proper habitat for the Red Panda isopods. Being humidity-loving creatures, the substrate mix needs to be supportive of that.  A substrate mix with good water retention capabilities would be ideal for maintaining high humidity inside a Red Panda enclosure. As detritivores, they would find it helpful to have some leaf litter and softwood barks in the substrate mix. While arranging the substrate mix inside the enclosure, add it in enough depth. As mentioned before, Red Panda isopods prefer to dig extremely deep for moisture control. So, the enclosure should have enough substrate mix to support that.  Red Panda isopods also like to have as many hiding spots as possible. So, you can add items like coconut halves, cork bark, lotus pods, etc., in the substrate mix for hiding. Earthworm castings are another addition that you can consider for the substrate mix for extra nutritional qualities.  Experts recommend providing a coco coir layer at the very bottom before laying the substrate mix. At the top of the substrate, you can add a thick layer of leaf litter and softwood barks at the top of the substrate. It is generally observed that the deep burrowing of Red Panda isopods replenishes the substrate mix with all the essential nutrients.

Jupiter Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a captivating addition to any terrarium, known for their unique black and yellow exoskeleton that resembles the planet Jupiter. Native to the limestone caves of Southeast Asia, these small, low-maintenance isopods thrive in humid environments and are ideal for beginners. With their calm nature and slow breeding habits, they make a striking and manageable choice for isopod enthusiasts, perfect for both display and care. A Glimpse ●      Origin: Thailand ●      Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Jupiter Isopods" ●      Maintenance required: low ●      Average Size: 2 cm ●      Rarity: medium ●      Lifespan: 2-3 years ●      Temperature: 64℉-79℉ ●      Ventilation: Low ●      Humidity: 60-80% ●      Favorite food: Carrots, butternut squash, sweet potatoes ●      Supplements: Crushed limestone, Cuttlefish bone Jupiter Isopods: Introduction These roly polys, like other cubaris isopods, are found in limestone caves of Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries. These have a very calm temperament and is a great beginner-friendly isopods. They are active during early morning and nighttime, so you can watch these critters move around exploring the terrarium during that time. They may be similar to the lemon blue isopods, but these species have a black color on the exoskeleton and not blue. Jupiter Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics ●      These small roly polys are one of the morphs of Cubaris sp. isopods. Their color resembles the planet Jupiter, hence the name. ●      Have small oval bodies that are segmented and have antennae. They have colorful legs in the front area, which makes them unique. ●      They have yellow outlines with black segmented exoskeletons. The colours of these species are due to the acidic nature of the soil in their native land. ●      The wax layer on their exoskeleton helps with hydration, and they molt when the isopods mature and grow. ●      Absolutely delightful and low-maintenance pets which are easy to take care of. ●      These species are egg-breeding type isopods and are slow breeders. ●      These pets are kid-friendly and beginner-friendly. ●      These species are striking and visually appealing, thus making a great addition to your terrarium and vivarium. Diet Like many isopods, these species' primary food sources are rotten leaves, plants, algae, and wooden bark. When culturing them in a terrarium or vivarium, make sure to provide a balanced diet of vegetables, meat, and calcium sources. If not, these creatures are prone to soft shell disease, which may affect molting and eventually perish. Therefore, make sure to provide various types of vegetables like sweet potatoes, carrots and even vegetable scraps. These species are not picky eaters and will eat almost everything that is given to them. For protein you can include earthworm castings, fish scrap, meat scrap into their diet. Adding crushed limestone, eggshells or cuttlebone in their enclosure can improve their calcium intake and will strengthen their exoskeleton. Adin commercial isopod food mix can also help achieve the necessary nutrition for these tiny critters. Make sure to provide portions that can be completed in a single session. Observe and provide food according to the size of the culture. Jupiter Isopods: Personality These species in general have a mild and non-aggressive nature. But when there are other creatures present, then they tend to be a little skittish. They tend to hide when they sense other creatures are present. They don't like to be picked up or touched unless necessary and they roll up and freeze when they feel threatened. Though these creatures love to explore the environment and continue with their natural behaviors like foraging. They are not the best tankmates with other isopods or any other species and tend to attack if kept in a small enclosure. Therefore, it is crucial that there is space in the enclosure. These species take their time to be friendly with their human parents. With trust and patience and also by feeding them their favorite food, these species can become friendly with humans. Jupiter Isopods: Breeding ●      Jupiter isopods can lay eggs without any male isopods, i.e., they are parthenogenetic in nature. This phenomenon is quite common among the isopods. ●      They are seasonal breeders and have a slow reproduction rate compared to other species. ●      The procedure begins when the female produces an egg capsule. After that, she would usually lay the egg capsule in a damp, moist place. ●      The number of eggs in each capsule can range from one to twenty-one, depending on the species. It takes the baby isopods 6-7 weeks after hatching to mature into adults. ●      Once they hatch, they become independent and explore and forage food on their own. ●      The nymphs will molt around four times in their early lives. The Jupiter Isopods enter the reproductive cycle after reaching adulthood, and they can begin to procreate in around three weeks. Jupiter Isopods: Tips to Make an Artificial Habitat The Jupiter isopods prefer tropical climates with rich soil substrate and humidity. Providing a rich substrate mix that contains organic matter will help provide them with a more natural atmosphere for the enclosure. When choosing the enclosure, make sure that there is enough size for these species to breed and produce offspring. Therefore, it is crucial to get a 19-litre capacity plastic container as a starter for the enclosure. You can also opt for a bigger plastic enclosure of 38 litres. Drill small ventilation outlets on the container and make sure that they are small. These species thrive in a humid environment thus small outlets help prevent excess humidity. Temperature within the enclosure should be maintained the same as specified in the description as constant change in temperature may cause stress to these species. Add the substrate mix into the enclosure to make sure that there is enough thickness. A thickness of 2.5 inches is ideal for these species to dig and hide. Add sphagnum moss on one side of the enclosure. Make sure that they cover ⅓ of the container and mist the area with water. Leave the rest of the substrate dry, giving them the option to choose their environment. When adding the substrate mix, make sure to mix dried leaves into it. Sprinkle some more on top of the substrate as well. Adding egg crates and rotten bark or coconut shells can act as hiding spots for the isopod colonies. Adding these hiding spots helps to differentiate each brood and colony and it reduces competition and dominance among other colonies.

Cubaris sp. "White Side" (also sold as "Penguin") is a small Thai/Cambodian Cubaris with striking black and white colouration. The dark body with white margins creates a penguin-like appearance that gives this species its common name. Among Cubaris species, White Side is considered one of the easier options—hardy, adaptable, and reasonably priced—making it a sensible entry point for keepers wanting to try Cubaris without the expense or difficulty of rarer species. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand/Cambodia, Southeast Asia (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "White Side" Common Names: White Side, Penguin, Pinguin, Orca Maintenance required: Easy to Moderate Average Size: 8-15mm (approximately 1cm) Rarity: Low (common in the hobby) Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 55-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Calcium (cuttlebone, limestone), protein twice weekly White Side/Penguin Isopods: Introduction White Side isopods hold a notable place in Cubaris history. They were among the very first Cubaris species discovered in the limestone caves of Southeast Asia, predating the Rubber Ducky explosion of 2017. Their discovery helped open the door to the many Thai and Vietnamese Cubaris species now available in the hobby. The origin is sometimes listed as Thailand, sometimes Vietnam, and sometimes Cambodia—sources vary. This confusion is common with Southeast Asian Cubaris, where collection localities aren't always precisely documented. Regardless of exact origin, they're tropical cave-dwellers adapted to humid conditions. Since their discovery, White Side isopods have become widely available and relatively affordable. They lack the premium pricing of rarer Cubaris but offer the same appealing rounded body shape and conglobating ability. For keepers curious about Cubaris but hesitant about the cost and difficulty of species like Rubber Ducky, White Side provides a lower-stakes introduction. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 8-15mm (sources vary, typically around 10mm) Smaller than many popular Cubaris species Dark grey to black body colouration Distinctive white margins along the edges ("skirt") White markings on head, rear, and underside Pale/white bodies contrast with darker central areas Rounded body shape typical of Cubaris Can roll into a defensive ball (conglobation) Small size means they're less visible than larger species The penguin comparison is apt—the dark body with white edges genuinely resembles penguin colouration. Some sellers also use "Orca" as a trade name, referencing the same black-and-white pattern. Whatever you call them, the contrast is attractive and makes them visually distinct from plain-coloured species. Behaviour White Side isopods display typical Cubaris behaviours with some characteristics worth noting. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal. Most active at night when they emerge to forage. Daytime sightings increase as colony numbers grow, but expect them to spend daylight hours hidden. Temperament: Social creatures that engage in grooming and foraging behaviours. They're shy and secretive, particularly when newly introduced or in small numbers. Defensive behaviour: Roll into a tight ball when threatened—the conglobation response shared with Armadillidium and other Cubaris species. Burrowing: They burrow to regulate moisture and feel secure. Deep substrate accommodates this behaviour and supports colony health. Social structure: Gregarious. They thrive in groups and benefit from colony living. Purchase adequate numbers for best establishment success. Adaptability: Described as "hardy" and "adaptable" compared to more demanding Cubaris species. They tolerate a wider range of conditions than many tropical Cubaris, though they still need appropriate humidity. Diet Standard Cubaris dietary requirements. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple—always available) Decaying white-rotted wood (always available) Forest moss Lichen Supplementary foods: Vegetables: various organic vegetables Fruits: in moderation Fish flakes/pellets Commercial isopod foods Protein: Provide protein at least twice weekly: Fish food Dried shrimp Meat scraps (sparingly) They reportedly prefer slightly decayed leaves over fresh ones. Calcium: Essential for healthy exoskeletons and breeding: Cuttlebone Limestone chunks Oyster shell Crushed eggshells As cave-dwelling Cubaris, they benefit from limestone in the enclosure, mimicking their natural habitat. Feeding notes: Remove uneaten fresh foods before spoiling Varied diet supports healthy breeding Good nutrition produces healthier offspring White Side/Penguin Isopods: Breeding White Side isopods follow a common Cubaris pattern: slow to establish, then productive. Breeding characteristics: Slow initial breeding while colony establishes Once settled, reproduction rates increase significantly Described as "moderately prolific" when established Comparable to other entry-level Cubaris like Papaya or Panda King once going Females carry eggs in brood pouch (marsupium) Establishment period: Expect patience during the first few months. The colony needs time to settle into the new environment before breeding activity picks up. This is normal for Cubaris—don't assume something is wrong if you don't see babies immediately. Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (20-28°C, around 25°C optimal) Consistent humidity (higher end of range preferred for breeding) Adequate calcium supply Deep substrate for burrowing Abundant food (leaf litter, decaying wood) Minimal disturbance during establishment Genetic diversity (avoid inbreeding in small colonies) Monitoring: Once established, breeding becomes self-sustaining. Regular observation helps track colony health. Healthy adults with adequate resources will produce offspring reliably. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Habitat Setup White Side isopods are relatively forgiving for Cubaris but still need appropriate tropical conditions. Enclosure: Plastic containers or terrariums work well Ventilated but not excessively airy Dark, quiet location preferred (they dislike bright light) Size appropriate to colony—start with standard culture container Ventilation: Medium. They need some airflow to prevent stagnation but not so much that humidity drops. Balance ventilation with humidity retention. Substrate: Deep substrate supports their burrowing behaviour. Recommended mix: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss Forest humus Decaying hardwood Leaf litter (oak, magnolia, beech) Depth: Minimum 15cm (6 inches) recommended. Deep substrate retains moisture longer and allows proper burrowing behaviour. They like to dig deep to lock in body moisture. Moisture gradient: Approximately 70% moist/damp side, 30% drier side. This allows them to self-regulate by moving between zones as needed. Humidity: 55-80%—they're adaptable within this range: Keep substrate moist but not waterlogged Mist as needed to maintain humidity Ensure proper ventilation to prevent excessive moisture buildup Too dry is dangerous—they'll struggle to moult Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F)—standard tropical room temperature: Around 25°C is optimal for breeding Avoid temperature fluctuations (causes stress) Room temperature in heated UK homes generally sufficient Stable conditions more important than hitting exact numbers Décor: Cork bark (hiding spots) Hardwood pieces Leaf litter layers Moss patches Limestone (calcium source and habitat enrichment) Climbing and hiding opportunities Environment notes: They dislike bright light—position the enclosure in a darker, quieter area. Distributing dried leaves across the surface mimics natural habitat and encourages foraging behaviour. Bioactive Use White Side isopods can contribute to bioactive setups. Strengths: Help process organic waste Contribute to nutrient cycling Attractive appearance adds visual interest Hardy enough for bioactive conditions Social behaviour interesting to observe Considerations: Small size means less visible than larger species Nocturnal—won't see them working during the day Need appropriate humidity levels maintained Slow initial establishment before population grows Suitable applications: Tropical terrariums with high humidity Vivariums with compatible inhabitants Display colonies for observation Bioactive setups where conditions match their needs Their hardiness compared to more demanding Cubaris makes them reasonable bioactive candidates, provided humidity requirements are met. Suitability White Side isopods suit keepers wanting accessible Cubaris at reasonable prices. Good choice for: Keepers wanting to try Cubaris without high cost/difficulty Those graduating from beginner species (Porcellio, Armadillidium) Hobbyists attracted to the penguin-like colouration Keepers who can maintain tropical humidity levels Those wanting smaller, subtle display animals Less suited for: Complete beginners (start with Dairy Cow or similar first) Those wanting large, highly visible isopods Keepers unable to maintain consistent humidity Those expecting immediate breeding results Care level: Easy to Moderate for Cubaris. They're described as "one of the easiest Cubaris species for a beginner" and "relatively hardy." The main requirements are maintaining appropriate humidity (too dry causes moulting problems) and patience during the establishment period. Compared to demanding species like Rubber Ducky, they're forgiving. What to expect: Expect small (around 10mm) isopods with attractive black-and-white penguin colouration. Expect primarily nocturnal activity—you'll see them most after lights go out, with visibility increasing as colony numbers grow. Expect shy behaviour initially, with animals spending considerable time burrowed or hidden. Expect slow breeding at first, accelerating once the colony establishes (this may take months). Expect to maintain consistent humidity—they're more tolerant than some Cubaris but still need tropical conditions. Expect hardy, adaptable animals that forgive minor mistakes better than demanding species. For keepers curious about Cubaris but put off by the price and difficulty of premium species, White Side/Penguin isopods offer a practical starting point. They're not the flashiest or largest Cubaris, but they're genuinely attractive, reasonably hardy, and affordable enough that experimentation doesn't mean significant financial risk. Success with White Side builds confidence and skills for tackling more demanding Cubaris later.

The Pink Panda King Isopods are an eye-catching species, known for their vibrant pink and white coloration. A rare and unique addition to any collection, these isopods are popular among hobbyists for their distinctive appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Ideal for bioactive enclosures, they thrive in humid environments and play an important role in maintaining the ecosystem by breaking down organic matter. Their captivating look and low maintenance make them a perfect choice for both beginners and experienced isopod enthusiasts. Insight Place of Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Panda King' Maintenance Effort:Easy Ideal Temperature Range: 70℉ - 80℉ General Size:  ~ 15mm Rareness: Low to Medium Humidity Range: 70% - 80% Preferred Diet: Fruit, vegetables, fish food  Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, eggshells Panda King Isopods: Introduction These isopods are generally observed in limestone caves and belong to central and northern parts of Vietnam. These species prefer to be in an environment which is humid. Isopods of length approximately 1.5 cm are seen generally. They play a major role in the ecosystem balancing, by feeding on the decaying plants and rotting wood. They supply nutrients to the soil by consuming the decaying matter, maintaining the balance of required nutrients in soil. Characteristics of Panda King Isopods These critters have black and white colour exoskeletons. They grow up to 1.5 cm in length.  Their striking and adorable features make them one of the most sought-after isopods. They are easy to care for and require minimum maintenance. They are beginner-friendly. They are nocturnal in nature. They breed rapidly once established in their habitat. They are detritivores in nature. It has a soft exoskeleton and is used to feed poison dart frogs and other small animals. Vegetables, greens, and fish food are good for maintaining nutrition. The consumption of calcium for these isopods is a bit higher than other isopod species. Feeding These isopods feed on almost all types of food. They are essentially scavengers and feed on organic waste. However, during confinement in a cage, it is imperative to offer optimal nutrition. They can be supplemented with vegetables, greens, rotten leaves, or even wood. For calcium and protein, dried shrimp, fish food, cuttlebone, and egg shells are great for these species growth and development. Calcium powder is also good to give as a substitute.  Most isopod owners make the mistake of overfeeding the isopods. Overfeeding attracts pests into their enclosure. Therefore, it is important to feed the necessary quantity of food.  Natural Habitat Panda King isopods live in limestone caves and taverns. These species are commonly found in the central and northern parts of Thailand. In this region, caves are abundant. The caves are dark and humid; therefore, they are suitable for the isopods.  Panda King isopods are scavengers. They are also found among rotting leaves, fruits and vegetables. These species like to live in dark areas. They are shy in nature and like to burrow and hide. It is necessary to understand their natural habitat to build an artificial habitat for these isopods. Panda King Isopods: Breeding Panda King isopods are active species ready to reproduce unless acclimated to their surroundings.  Once they adapt to their surroundings, they start producing many offspring.  These isopods have a distinct mating ritual where the male isopods transfer sperm into the female's pleopods. The offspring hatch after six weeks after the eggs are attached to a firm surface. These offspring stay close to their mother, thus forming a small colony. Artificial Habitat of Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods thrive in humid environments. They are native to the tropical climates of Asia and need moisture to stay hydrated. Keep them in a small box to help them acclimate to a new environment. Once they're comfortable, transfer them to a plastic box with ventilation. Use deep bedding, including materials like old wood, dried leaves, and moss, for a cosy habitat.  It is necessary to prevent excess moisture as they may attract pests like mold and fruit flies. To combat this, adding springtails will help keep the environment clean and free of unwanted guests. It's important to keep the humidity right for the well-being of these isopods so they have a comfortable and healthy place to live. So, with proper care and attention to their habitat, you can enjoy the delightful presence of Panda King isopods in your home. Tank Mates for Pink Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods like to live in a highly humid environment. Therefore, pairing them with similar invertebrates that appreciate humidity is best.  It is necessary that tankmates for the isopods should be from the same region as the Panda King. Therefore, invertebrates like snails are the best tank mates in terrarium and vivarium settings. Another species that is suitable to be paired with is springtails. These creatures, when together, will prevent any kinds of pests and will keep the bioactive clean. Preferred Substrate Mixture for Pink Panda King Isopods A perfect substrate blend for Panda King Isopods is one that is deep, and also holds a lot of moisture. Use a small batch of coco coir, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark for the isopods, with the substrate depth reaching approximately 4 inches for burrowing.  Magnolia leaves enhance the habitat further, contributing to moisture retention and serving as excellent shelters for Panda King Isopods and their offspring. To mimic their natural surroundings, incorporate cork bark, dried oak leaves, and other elements into the enclosure. Wooden bark pieces are added to provide hiding spots, and dried leaves are added as food and for aesthetics. Sphagnum moss helps with moisture retention, which is a crucial factor for Panda King Isopods thriving in the environment. Although ventilation is necessary, it should be minimal to maintain the desired humidity gradient within the substrate. It should have both damp and dry areas. For nutrition, add earthworm castings and limestone powder to replicate their native habitat. This all-rounder substrate mix establishes a solid foundation, offering both sustenance and hydration to the isopods. Striking a balance between the various elements encourages natural behaviours and supports the physical health of Panda King Isopods in captivity. It allows them to thrive in an artificial environment that mimics the conditions of their natural habitat.

Cubaris sp. "Pak Chong" is a Thai cave isopod originating from the Pak Chong district in northeastern Thailand. Named after their collection locality, they're known for their attractive tricoloured appearance—blue-grey body, white frilled edges, and distinctive orange rear sections. Often compared to Bernese mountain dogs for their colour pattern, they combine genuine visual appeal with relatively accessible care requirements. Among Thai Cubaris, they're considered one of the easier species, breeding faster than many cave-dwelling relatives while tolerating more humidity variation than notoriously fussy species like Rubber Duckies. For keepers wanting attractive Thai Cubaris without extreme difficulty, Pak Chong are a sensible choice. Brief Intro To Pak Chongs Origin: Pak Chong district, Northeast Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Pak Chong" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.5-1.8 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-32°C (70-90°F) Ventilation: Medium (good ventilation important—cave species) Humidity: 60-75% (moderate, tolerates more variation than sensitive Cubaris) Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Introduction Pak Chong is a district in Nakhon Ratchasima Province, northeastern Thailand, known for its limestone caves and karst formations. The isopods collected from this area have adapted to cave environments—characterised by moderate humidity, good airflow, and calcium-rich substrates. What distinguishes Pak Chong from some demanding Thai cave Cubaris is their relative tolerance. While species like Rubber Ducky or White Tiger can be notoriously sensitive to conditions, Pak Chong handle humidity variation better and breed more readily. They're not bulletproof—they're still Cubaris requiring appropriate care—but they're among the more forgiving Thai species. Their colouration is genuinely attractive. The combination of blue-grey body tones, white frilled edges along each segment, and distinctive orange-red colouration on the rear (and sometimes face) creates a striking tricoloured appearance. The comparison to Bernese mountain dogs, while unusual, captures their colour distribution reasonably well. For keepers wanting to experience Thai Cubaris without immediately tackling the most demanding species, Pak Chong offer an accessible entry point. They're visually rewarding, breed reasonably well once established, and don't punish minor husbandry variations as severely as their more sensitive relatives. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5-1.8 cm Blue to grey body colouration White frilled edges along segment margins Distinctive orange to red colouration on rear segments (uropods/pleon) Some individuals show orange on the face as well Capable of conglobation (rolling into tight defensive balls) Compact, rounded body typical of Cubaris Pattern is consistent across individuals though intensity varies The tricoloured appearance makes them immediately recognisable and genuinely attractive. Well-maintained specimens display vibrant contrast between the three colour zones. Behaviour Pak Chong display interesting behavioural traits worth noting. Social behaviour: Complex social interactions. They can often be seen nudging each other, accompanied by intense antenna flickering—apparent communication behaviour. They show moisture-sharing behaviour, helping colony members maintain hydration. Defensive response: When threatened, they roll into tight defensive balls and may squeeze together in groups. This conglobation behaviour is reliable and complete. Temperature response: Interesting behavioural adaptation to temperature. When enclosure temperatures rise, they slow their movement to conserve energy for relocating to secure areas. In cooler conditions, they become more active, moving quickly across longer distances seeking food and shelter. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will emerge during the day in established colonies. Cave origins mean they prefer dim conditions. Climbing behaviour: They're climbers. In enclosures without secure lids, they may find ways to escape. Ensure enclosures are properly sealed. Burrowing: They burrow into substrate for security and humidity regulation, typical of cave-dwelling Cubaris. Diet Pak Chong are detritivores with straightforward but important dietary needs. Primary foods: Leaf litter in abundance (their main dietary staple) Decaying hardwood Rotting wood Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: potato, carrot, squash, courgette Fresh moss (they enjoy this) Mushrooms Fish flakes for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Bat guano (excellent protein source) Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting. Their cave origins mean they're adapted to calcium-rich environments. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells, or oyster shell as constant supplements. Incorporate calcium sources into the substrate as well as offering them separately. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports colony health and breeding. Shrimp meal, fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp, and bat guano all work well. Feeding approach: Their main food source should be abundant leaf litter—this forms the foundation of their diet. Supplement with protein and fresh vegetables regularly. Provide food in multiple locations to ensure all colony members can access nutrition. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Breeding Pak Chong breed reasonably well for a Thai cave Cubaris—better than many relatives. Breeding rate: Moderate. They don't breed as explosively as species like Cubaris murina, but they're among the faster-breeding Thai cave Cubaris. Once established, they reproduce frequently and reliably. Breeding characteristics: Not as slow as Rubber Ducky or similar demanding species Colonies grow at a reasonable pace with proper care Described by keepers as "great breeders" once settled Breeding requirements: Moderate humidity (60-75%) Stable warm temperatures Adequate calcium availability Sufficient protein in diet Good ventilation (cave species need airflow) Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance during establishment Colony establishment: Allow time for new colonies to settle before expecting breeding activity. Starting with larger groups (10+) provides better genetic diversity and faster establishment. Tips for success: Cave species require good ventilation—stagnant, overly humid conditions can inhibit breeding and colony health. Maintain the balance between adequate moisture and airflow. Once conditions are right, breeding follows naturally. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means understanding their cave-dwelling origins. Enclosure: A terrarium or container with good ventilation. Unlike some humidity-dependent Cubaris, Pak Chong need airflow as cave species. Enclosed containers with adequate ventilation holes work well. Secure lids are essential—they climb and will escape given opportunity. Living soil terrariums or vivariums suit them well. Size should accommodate colony growth; upsize as populations increase. Substrate: Provide nutritious substrate at least 8cm (3 inches) deep: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for structure Crushed limestone generously incorporated (essential for cave species) Leaf litter layered abundantly on top Decaying hardwood pieces Rotting wood Calcium sources mixed throughout (eggshells, limestone) Optional additions: bat guano, shrimp meal for nutrition. Humidity: Moderate humidity—60-75%. They tolerate more humidity variation than sensitive Thai cave species: Maintain moisture gradient (one side damper, one side drier) Don't let the enclosure become uniformly wet Moss on the moist side helps maintain humidity Don't let moss dry out completely Balance moisture with ventilation to prevent mould They can handle more humidity than species like White Tiger or Rubber Ducky, but avoid waterlogged conditions. Ventilation: Medium—good ventilation is important. As cave species, they need adequate airflow. Provide approximately 5cm of space above substrate for air circulation. Ventilation prevents mould growth and maintains appropriate conditions. This is a key difference from humidity-dependent tropical Cubaris that need restricted airflow. Lighting: Prefer dim conditions reflecting their cave origins. Keep enclosures away from direct sunlight and bright light sources. Position in darker areas of rooms. Temperature: 21-32°C (70-90°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in UK homes typically works. Extreme heat or cold can be harmful—maintain moderate, stable temperatures. Décor and hides: Abundant leaf litter (essential—they love it) Ample moss for hiding and exploration Cork bark pieces Flat stones or limestone pieces Multiple hiding options throughout Their climbing nature means they'll utilise vertical space if provided. Bioactive Use Pak Chong can function in bioactive setups suited to their requirements. Best suited for: Tropical vivariums with moderate humidity Terrariums with good ventilation Setups where attractive cleanup crew adds visual interest Enclosures maintaining 60-75% humidity range Advantages: Attractive tricoloured appearance More tolerant than demanding Thai Cubaris Reasonable breeding supports population maintenance Interesting social behaviour adds observational interest Considerations: Need good ventilation unlike some Cubaris Climbing behaviour requires secure enclosures Mid-range pricing means they're more investment than basic cleanup crew Not suitable for very high or very low humidity setups Less ideal for: Arid setups (too dry) Extremely humid tropical setups with poor ventilation (need airflow) Open-top enclosures (they escape) Suitability Pak Chong suit keepers wanting attractive Thai Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with basic Cubaris experience ready for Thai species Those wanting visually striking isopods at moderate prices Collectors seeking Thai cave Cubaris without demanding care Bioactive setups needing attractive cleanup crew Beginners to Cubaris who've done their research Not ideal for: Complete beginners with no isopod experience Keepers wanting either very dry or very humid conditions Those unable to provide good ventilation Open enclosures (they climb and escape) Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're among the more forgiving Thai cave Cubaris—easier than species like Rubber Ducky, White Tiger, or demanding cave locales. Their tolerance for humidity variation and reasonable breeding rate makes them accessible. However, they're still Cubaris requiring appropriate care—not as bulletproof as hardy Porcellio species. Compared to other Thai Cubaris: More forgiving than Rubber Ducky or White Tiger. Similar care to Panda King but different appearance. Breed faster than many Thai cave species. Good middle-ground option for keepers wanting Thai Cubaris aesthetics without the most demanding husbandry. Value assessment: At £35 for 5 (currently discounted), they offer good value for attractive Thai Cubaris. The tricoloured appearance is genuinely appealing, and their reasonable care requirements mean colonies are achievable rather than frustrating. Customer reviews consistently mention them as good breeders once established. Expectations: Expect attractive isopods with interesting social behaviour that reward appropriate care with steady breeding. Expect some initial establishment time before breeding begins. Don't expect the explosive breeding of hardy Porcellio or the extreme sensitivity of demanding cave species. Expect a manageable stepping stone into Thai Cubaris keeping, or simply enjoyable isopods in their own right.

Murina Glacier Isopods, also known as Cubaris murina, are considered an excellent entry-level species within the Cubaris genus. Though they lack the vibrant colors or distinctive markings of other species, they are highly valued for their efficiency as bioactive custodians. These isopods are particularly well-suited for terrariums and vivariums, helping maintain a clean and balanced environment. Their adaptability and ease of care make them a popular choice for those new to the hobby. Cubaris Murina Glacier: Synopsis Place of Origin: Indo-Pacific region, North America Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Lifespan: 1-4 years Difficulty level:  Medium Temperature Range: 62℉-83℉ Size: 1 cm Rareness: Medium Humidity Range: 70% -80% Preferred Diet: fungi, bacteria, algae and other detritus Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, bat guano, calcium powder Cubaris Murina: Abstract Murina Glacier Isopods are highly adaptable to a variety of environments. These isopods are primarily found in the Pacific, the Caribbean, and North America. Their scientific name, Cubaris murina, is derived from the Latin words "cube," meaning "to lie," and "marina," which relates to sea creatures. This name reflects their smooth, small bodies, which have often led to them being mistaken for tiny sea organisms. Their ability to thrive in diverse habitats makes them a popular choice for bioactive setups. Characteristics These creatures are muted grey or purple in color with peach or orange spots at the rear end. It has a smooth and small body and is often mistaken as a sea creature due to its appearance. These species are great clean-up crews in terrariums and vivariums. They have a moderate reproduction rate. These isopods are easy to care for and are great for beginners. They are found in multiple types of habitats. Due to this, they are widely sought after. They are the best entry-level species with a forgiving nature. Murina Glacier Isopods: Morphs These species, which have either been cultured or found in the wild, are found in different patterns and colors.  Papaya: They are dull pink and are believed to be an albino version. These isopods are popular among enthusiasts. Glacier: It is an almost completely white variety. They have white eyes, legs, and antennae. Anemone: This isopod is a variety of speckled patterns of orange and grey. Florida Orange: The orange variety of the isopod discovered in the wild in Florida, hence the name. Murina Glacier Isopods: Food  Even Though the isopods are very small in size, their appetite is not very small. Feeding is essential to continue their life cycle. There are better methods than feeding them with random decaying material. The food supplied should be the perfect blend of various materials, ensuring that the isopods get all the required nutrients. The decaying organic matter should be placed in the corner of the container, forming the basis for their feeding. In addition to the organic matter, litters of leaf and decaying wood will help them maintain a healthy condition. Other than the naturally available materials, special supplements are designed to provide the perfect mix of required nutrients for the isopod. Supplying them with these designed foods can help them make healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Glacier: Breeding The two main components for them to breed in abundance are the perfect food with the right amount of nutrients and a comfortable environment. Both can be achieved by using naturally available materials and man-made settings. Reproducing healthy offspring relates to the size and the regular structure.  A study was conducted in 2009 on these species, and it was discovered that they can produce decent-sized broods quickly. This makes them a reliable species for different kinds of terrariums. These species can proliferate in a culture where there is low density compared to a high-density culture. Cubaris Murina: Natural Environment The environment provided by Mother Nature to the isopods is humid in nature. To adjust to the temperature and humidity, they have the ability to burrow themselves inside their living area, which helps them maintain their preferred living conditions. Due to this ability, they are seen in many parts of the world where there is a perfect blend of moist and humid environments. These isopods come out of their burrow whenever they feel the environmental conditions are safe for them. With a large appetite, they will hunt for their food any time of the day. Cubaris Murina Glacier Isopods: Artificial Enclosure Setting It is always difficult to set up an artificially made environment that is 100% comfortable for the isopods. But with the advancements in technology, an environment that can mimic the natural environment can be set up, which can ensure a near-to-comfortable climate for the isopods. These artificial settings are achieved by using humidity controllers and temperature regulators. Based on the sensor feedback, the system adjusts the conditions itself, providing the isopods with a misty environment, almost matching their natural environment. Proper care of the system has to be ensured as a wrong sensor feedback may create a difference in temperature or humidity, resulting in an uncomfortable environment. This will affect the lifespan as well as the ability to reproduce. For an artificial setting, start with a shoebox-size plastic container.  They do not reproduce in a short period of time. Therefore, the same box can be used for a longer period of time. It is to be ensured that sufficient ventilation is provided in the artificially designed environment.  Habitat and Substrate Mix They generally adapt to all kinds of environments. However, their preferred environment is a moist one.  While setting up the artificial environment, it is best to provide a moisture-retaining element for the isopods to have comfortable living conditions.  Placing coconut coir inside their habitat can help mimic their natural environment, as it helps them to burrow inside. In addition, the bark of orchid trees and sphagnum moss are very good elements for locking the moisture inside the enclosure.  Earthworm casting is one of the main sources of nutrients, which will help them to produce healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina: Basic Care Proper care must be provided to culture and maintain these isopods. It is crucial to clean the enclosure regularly. Not maintaining hygiene may attract unwanted pests and affect the isopod's health. While making provision for ventilation, it is to be ensured that mesh is provided to prevent these critters from escaping. Monitor the enclosure and make sure that the humidity and temperature are maintained. Provide supplements to meet their overall nutritional needs. Also, while placing the enclosure, keeping them in a dark place away from sunlight is essential.

Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" is a Thai Cubaris species named for its coffee-toned colouration. The exact shade varies between populations and individuals—some display light brown and cream tones like milky coffee, while others show brighter orange with dark purple, more reminiscent of espresso. Either way, the colour palette is distinctive and attractive. They're larger than many Cubaris species, somewhat hardier than their more demanding relatives, and make engaging display pets for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand, Southeast Asia (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" Common Names: Cappuccino Isopod Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: Up to 22mm (approximately 2cm) Rarity: High Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Calcium (limestone preferred), protein twice weekly Cappuccino Isopods: Introduction Cappuccino isopods emerged from the Thai Cubaris explosion that followed the discovery of Rubber Ducky isopods in limestone caves around 2017. Since then, numerous Cubaris species and morphs have entered the hobby, with Cappuccinos becoming one of the more sought-after varieties. Their name derives from their colouration, which evokes coffee drinks—though descriptions vary. Some sources describe light brown and cream tones (latte-like), while others emphasise bright orange with deep purple (more like a darker roast). This variation may reflect different breeding lines or simply the range of natural variation within the species. Either interpretation produces attractive isopods. Compared to some finicky Cubaris species, Cappuccinos are described as "hardier" and more "resilient to changes in humidity and temperature." They're not beginner isopods—they still require consistent conditions and more attention than Armadillidium or Porcellio—but they're a reasonable step up for keepers with some experience who want to try Cubaris without jumping straight to the most demanding species. Cappuccino Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 22mm—larger than many Cubaris species Rounded body shape with characteristic Cubaris "duck face" Colouration varies: light brown/tan/cream OR bright orange with dark purple White "skirt" around darker body in some descriptions Some individuals display white "ducky face" with coloured "lips" Small eyes on top of head Short legs, four sets of spiracles for respiration Can roll into defensive ball (conglobation) Can make clicking sounds when threatened The size is notable—at up to 22mm, they're on the larger end for Cubaris, making them easier to observe than smaller species. The colour pattern, whatever variation you receive, is distinctive and makes them visually appealing display animals. Behaviour Cappuccino isopods display typical Cubaris behaviour patterns with some distinctions. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal—most active at night when they emerge to feed. You'll see occasional daytime sightings, especially as colony numbers increase, but expect them to be most visible after lights go out. Temperament: Described as "fairly passive" and less easily spooked than some Cubaris species. They're "gentle" and "docile"—good characteristics for observation and handling. Burrowing: They burrow for moisture control and security. This differs from some surface-dwelling species—provide adequate substrate depth (10-15cm minimum) to accommodate this behaviour. Social: Gregarious. They do well in groups and benefit from colony living. Purchase in groups for best establishment success. Shyness: Like many Cubaris, they're shy and reclusive, particularly when newly introduced. As one source notes: "Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much." Higher numbers in the colony lead to more visible activity. Diet Standard Cubaris dietary requirements with emphasis on calcium. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple—always available in abundance) Decaying white-rotted wood (always available) Forest moss Lichen Supplementary foods: Vegetables: squash, radishes, carrots, other organic vegetables Fruits: various (feed in moderation) Commercial isopod foods (Repashy, powdered diets) Fish flakes Dog food (occasionally) Protein: Provide protein twice weekly: Freeze-dried minnows Dried shrimp Fish pellets Dried insects Feed protein on the drier side of the enclosure as it can spoil quickly in humid conditions and attract pests. Calcium (particularly important): Cappuccinos, like many Thai Cubaris, originate from limestone cave environments and are particularly fond of calcium sources: Cuttlebone (quickly devoured when offered) Limestone chunks "Texas Holy Rock" (reported favourite) Crushed eggshells Calcium carbonate powder in substrate Providing limestone mimics their natural cave habitat and supports healthy exoskeleton development. Feeding notes: Avoid overfeeding Remove uneaten fresh foods before spoiling Ensure no pesticide residue on vegetables Good nutrition promotes faster breeding and healthier populations Cappuccino Isopods: Breeding Cappuccinos breed reliably once established, though they're not the fastest reproducers. Breeding characteristics: Slow to establish—may take several months before young appear Once established, breed "prolifically" and reliably Moderate reproduction rate overall Females carry eggs in brood pouch (marsupium) Reality check: One experienced source states breeding difficulty as "Advanced," while others say "Medium" or "Moderate." The consensus is that they're slower to establish than many species but become reliable producers once the colony matures. Patience is required—don't expect rapid population growth initially. Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (high 70s to low 80s°F / 24-28°C) Consistent high humidity (60-80%) Adequate calcium supply Deep substrate for burrowing Abundant food (leaf litter, decaying wood) Minimal disturbance during establishment Avoid large environmental swings Cappuccino Isopods: Habitat Setup Cappuccinos require more attention to setup than beginner species but are manageable for intermediate keepers. Enclosure: Plastic containers or terrariums work well Minimal air holes (to maintain humidity) Shoebox-sized container (approximately 6 quart / 3 gallon minimum) suitable for starter colonies Fair ventilation required—not sealed, but limited holes Ventilation: Medium. They need some airflow but not so much that humidity drops. Balance is key—too much ventilation dries them out, too little causes stagnation. Substrate: Deep substrate is important for their burrowing behaviour: Recommended mix: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss (milled and long-fibre) Forest humus Fine tree fern fibre Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, willow) Orchid bark Depth: Minimum 10-15cm (4-6 inches). Deeper substrates retain moisture longer and support burrowing behaviour. Humidity: 60-80%—high but not excessive: Keep substrate mostly moist but not soggy Some sources recommend "moist side and slightly less moist side" rather than dramatic wet/dry gradient Never let substrate get anywhere close to dry Mist every few days with dechlorinated water Cork bark pieces help retain humidity Critical note: Too much humidity and dampness can cause moulting issues and sudden die-offs. Moist, not wet, is the goal. Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F)—comfortable room temperature to slightly warm: High 70s to low 80s°F is the comfort zone Avoid large temperature swings (can be fatal) Room temperature in heated UK homes generally works Stable conditions more important than hitting exact numbers Décor: Cork bark pieces (they may prefer lotus pods as hideouts) Leaf litter (food and cover) Decaying wood pieces Moss patches Limestone chunks (calcium source and habitat enrichment) Setup philosophy: Aim for half soil, half decaying wood components. Provide plenty of hiding spots and natural botanical items that simulate their wild habitat—this promotes natural behaviours like eating and breeding. Bioactive Use Cappuccinos can work in bioactive setups but have limitations. Strengths: Help reduce organic waste buildup Aid in nutrient recycling Add visual interest (nocturnal activity) Larger size makes them visible when active Limitations: Not the best bioactive cleaners—better species exist for that purpose Shy and nocturnal—you won't see them working during the day Require specific conditions that may not match all bioactive setups Slow breeding means population recovery takes time if predation occurs Best use: Cappuccinos are better suited as display pets than utilitarian cleanup crews. If you want efficient bioactive processing, consider Porcellio or faster-breeding species. Keep Cappuccinos because you enjoy observing them, not primarily for their cleanup utility. Suitable applications: Tropical terrariums where conditions match their needs Display colonies where aesthetics matter Vivariums with compatible inhabitants Suitability Cappuccinos suit intermediate keepers wanting attractive Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with some isopod experience ready to try Cubaris Those wanting larger, more observable Cubaris Display colony enthusiasts Keepers who can maintain consistent conditions Those attracted to coffee-toned colouration Less suited for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Those wanting fast-breeding cleanup crews Keepers unable to maintain stable humidity/temperature Those expecting highly visible daytime activity Care level: They're described as "hardier" and more "resilient" than some Cubaris, but still require consistent conditions without large environmental swings. One source warns: "If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry." The key challenges are: maintaining stable conditions (temperature/humidity swings can be fatal), patience during slow establishment period, and accepting their nocturnal/shy nature. Value: At £55 for 5, £105 for 10, or £200 for 20, Cappuccinos are moderately priced for Cubaris—less expensive than ultra-rare species but more than beginner isopods. The price reflects their desirability, attractive appearance, and the care required to maintain breeding colonies. For keepers wanting an accessible entry point into "designer" Cubaris, they represent reasonable value. What to expect: Expect attractive isopods with coffee-toned colouration that varies between cream/brown and orange/purple depending on the line. Expect them to be primarily nocturnal—you'll see them most after lights go out, with occasional daytime sightings increasing as colony numbers grow. Expect shy behaviour initially, becoming bolder as the colony establishes. Expect slow breeding at first, accelerating once the colony matures (this may take months). Expect to maintain consistent humidity and temperature without major swings. Expect larger Cubaris (up to 22mm) that are easier to observe than smaller species. For keepers who enjoyed success with beginner species and want to explore the diverse world of Thai Cubaris, Cappuccinos offer an appealing combination: attractive appearance, reasonable (not extreme) care requirements, and the engaging behaviours that make Cubaris popular. They're not the easiest isopods, but they reward patient keepers who provide appropriate conditions with reliably breeding colonies of genuinely attractive animals.

Cubaris murina (Little Sea Isopods) is widely considered the entry-level Cubaris species—offering the rounded body shape and humidity requirements characteristic of the genus without the demanding care or premium pricing of rarer Cubaris. Originally from the Indo-Pacific region and now established across tropical and subtropical areas worldwide, they're adaptable, reasonably prolific, and genuinely useful as bioactive cleanup crew. Their muted grey-purple colouration with subtle peach or orange markings won't win beauty contests, but their forgiving nature and reliable breeding make them an excellent stepping stone into Cubaris keeping. A Glimpse Origin: Indo-Pacific region (now widespread globally) Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1-1.2 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 1-4 years Temperature: 17-28°C (62-83°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying organic matter, fungi, leaf litter Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, calcium powder, bat guano Cubaris murina: Introduction Cubaris murina has spread far beyond its Indo-Pacific origins, establishing populations across the Caribbean, North America, and other tropical regions. This adaptability hints at their hardiness—they're survivors that tolerate conditions many Cubaris species wouldn't accept. The common name "Little Sea Isopods" reflects their smooth, compact appearance that apparently reminded someone of marine creatures. They're entirely terrestrial, of course, but the name has stuck. The scientific name derives from Latin: "murina" meaning mouse-coloured, which accurately describes their muted grey-purple tones. What makes murina valuable for keepers is their position as a gateway Cubaris. They require the high humidity typical of the genus but forgive mistakes that would devastate sensitive species like Rubber Duckies or Panda Kings. Keepers who successfully maintain murina colonies develop the husbandry skills transferable to more demanding Cubaris without risking expensive animals in the learning process. They're not the most visually striking isopods—their muted colouration is functional rather than flashy. However, several morphs have been identified (Papaya, Glacier, Anemone, Florida Orange) that offer more visual interest while retaining the species' forgiving nature. Cubaris murina: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1-1.2 cm (small species) Muted grey or purple-grey body colouration Subtle peach or orange spots typically visible at the rear Smooth, rounded body typical of Cubaris Compact appearance—sometimes mistaken for small marine creatures Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Small size belies their robust appetite Their understated appearance is part of their charm for some keepers—they're functional animals that do their job without demanding attention. Cubaris murina: Morphs Several colour morphs have been identified, either from wild populations or captive breeding: Papaya: Dull pink colouration, believed to be an albino or reduced-pigment form. Popular among enthusiasts wanting more colour without increased difficulty. Glacier: Nearly completely white variety with white eyes, legs, and antennae. Striking appearance while retaining standard murina hardiness. Anemone: Speckled pattern combining orange and grey markings. More visually complex than the standard form. Florida Orange: Orange variety discovered in wild Florida populations. Natural colour variation maintaining the species' adaptability. These morphs typically command slightly higher prices than standard murina but remain accessible compared to premium Cubaris species. Behaviour Cubaris murina display typical Cubaris behaviours with notable adaptability. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will emerge during the day if conditions suit them—particularly in darker enclosures. They're opportunistic, coming out whenever environmental conditions feel safe. Burrowing: They burrow effectively, retreating into substrate to regulate their temperature and humidity exposure. This ability contributes to their survival across diverse habitats—they create their own microclimate when surface conditions aren't ideal. Feeding behaviour: Despite their small size, they have substantial appetites. They're active foragers that will hunt for food throughout the day when hungry. Reliable, enthusiastic eaters that process waste efficiently. Conglobation: Capable of rolling into defensive balls when threatened, though they don't do so as readily as some Cubaris species. Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with springtails and other cleanup crew species without conflict. Adaptability: Their key behavioural trait is flexibility. They adjust to varying conditions better than many Cubaris species, making them forgiving of minor husbandry errors. Diet Cubaris murina are enthusiastic, unfussy eaters. Primary foods: Decaying organic matter Fungi and bacteria (natural diet component) Leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Algae Rotting hardwood General detritus Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Commercial isopod foods Mushrooms Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports reproduction and colony health. Bat guano is specifically mentioned as beneficial; fish flakes and dried shrimp also work well. Feeding approach: Their appetite exceeds what their small size suggests. Ensure adequate food supply, particularly in growing colonies. Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources several times weekly. Remove uneaten fresh food to prevent pest attraction. Providing well-balanced nutrition—not just random decaying material—supports healthy reproduction and offspring development. Cubaris murina: Breeding Murina breed reliably under appropriate conditions—a key advantage for colony building. Breeding rate: Moderate. Research indicates they produce decent-sized broods at reasonable intervals. Not explosive breeders like some Porcellio species, but steady and reliable. Population density effect: Interestingly, studies suggest they proliferate better in lower-density cultures than high-density ones. Overcrowding may inhibit reproduction—something to consider if breeding slows in established colonies. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-80%) Stable temperatures within preferred range Adequate nutrition with good protein and calcium Appropriate substrate depth for security Moderate space (avoid severe overcrowding) Colony establishment: They don't reproduce as rapidly as hardy Porcellio species, so the same enclosure can be used for longer periods before upsizing becomes necessary. Patient colony building is rewarded with stable, self-sustaining populations. Tips for success: Maintain consistent conditions rather than perfect conditions. Their forgiving nature means minor fluctuations won't devastate breeding efforts, but stability still helps. Ensure nutrition is genuinely balanced rather than haphazard. Cubaris murina: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions balances humidity retention with their adaptable nature. Enclosure: A plastic container with ventilation works well. Shoebox-size containers suit starter colonies adequately given their slower reproduction rate. Ensure ventilation is present but not excessive—they need humidity retention. Substrate: Use moisture-retaining substrate that supports burrowing: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout for moisture retention Orchid bark pieces for structure and moisture locking Crushed limestone or calcium powder incorporated Leaf litter layered on top Sphagnum moss patches for additional moisture retention Earthworm castings mixed in for nutrition Provide adequate depth (8-10cm) to allow burrowing—their primary method of regulating personal microclimate. Humidity: 70-80%—high humidity is important but they're more tolerant than sensitive Cubaris: Maintain moist substrate throughout Provide moisture gradient where possible Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss and appropriate substrate help lock in moisture Ventilation should be present but limited to preserve humidity Ventilation: Low to medium. They need some airflow to prevent stagnation, but humidity retention takes priority. Mesh-covered ventilation holes prevent escapes while allowing air exchange. Lighting: Prefer darkness. Keep enclosures away from direct sunlight and in darker locations. They're more active and comfortable in dim conditions. Temperature: 17-28°C (62-83°F)—tolerant of a reasonable range. Room temperature in UK homes typically works, though they prefer the warmer end of their range for optimal activity and breeding. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Decaying wood pieces Multiple hiding options Their burrowing nature means much activity occurs below the surface, but surface hides encourage visible activity. Bioactive Use Cubaris murina excel as bioactive cleanup crew in humid setups. Ideal applications: Tropical bioactive enclosures Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko setups Humid planted terrariums Any high-humidity vivarium Advantages: Hardy Cubaris option for humid setups Reliable breeding maintains populations Enthusiastic feeders that process waste effectively Affordable pricing allows substantial starter populations Forgiving nature suits varied conditions Small size suits enclosures where large isopods would be problematic Considerations: Require high humidity—not suitable for arid setups Small size means they're easily eaten by some predators Less visually striking than premium species Need humidity retention that may not suit all enclosure designs Compared to other cleanup crew: More humidity-dependent than hardy Porcellio species but more forgiving than premium Cubaris. Fill the niche for keepers wanting Cubaris-style isopods in humid setups without the demanding care of sensitive species. Suitability Cubaris murina suit keepers wanting reliable, forgiving Cubaris. Excellent choice for: First-time Cubaris keepers learning genus requirements Humid bioactive setups needing reliable cleanup crew Keepers developing skills before investing in premium Cubaris Anyone wanting functional Cubaris at accessible prices Tropical vivarium projects Those who prefer subtle, functional species over flashy ones Not ideal for: Arid or low-humidity setups (choose dry-tolerant Porcellio instead) Keepers wanting visually striking display species Situations requiring rapid population explosions Those seeking rare collector's species Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're the most forgiving Cubaris commonly available—the "training wheels" of the genus. Mistakes that would kill sensitive Cubaris species are often survivable for murina colonies. This makes them ideal for developing Cubaris husbandry skills. Progression path: Many keepers use murina as their first Cubaris, then progress to species like Panda King, Rubber Ducky, or other premium Cubaris once they've mastered the humidity and care requirements. Success with murina builds confidence for more challenging species. Expectations: Expect reliable, adaptable isopods that reward consistent care with steady colony growth. Expect subtle colouration that won't impress visitors but indicates healthy, functional animals. Don't expect the visual impact of premium Cubaris or the explosive breeding of hardy Porcellio. Do expect an excellent foundation for Cubaris keeping that prepares you for more demanding species if that's your direction.

Thai Blue Angels are a particular isopod species native to Thailand. It is primarily found in the country’s lush environments and thrives in humid habitats. Whether you are a seasoned isopod keeper or a curious newcomer, it is important to understand the care requirements of these creatures before they arrive at your home. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Level: Moderate/Easy Size: 12-20 mm Rarity: Moderately rare Temperature: 24°C to 28°C Humidity: 55-70% Favourite Foods: Fish food, fruits, greens, veggies, greens, rotting white wood, green moss, kinshi, lichen, decaying leaves, and moulting of reptiles and invertebrates Thai Blue Angel Isopods: An Overview Scientifically known as Cubaris sp, Thai Blue Angel isopods have become popular exotic pets because they are an uncommon species of terrestrial crustaceans. Belonging to the genus family, this species is often regarded as attractive for its portable size, striking appearance, and behaviour. As many might not know, this isopod species is native to the rainforests of Thailand. They live in high-humidity environments and need to be kept in bioactive vivariums and terrariums. The unique colour combination of blue and white sets them apart from other isopods. Their roly-poly behaviour, when disturbed, makes them a favourite among collectors and hobbyists. Unlike other isopods, Thai Blue Angel requires little care, making it ideal for beginners. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Basic Care To take care of Thai Blue Angels, creating a similar environment to their natural habitat is important. Since they come from tropical regions, it is essential to maintain the right temperature and humidity levels. This way, you can keep your isopods happy and healthy. Here’s what you need to do: You can use a plastic container or glass terrarium as an enclosure. However, make sure that it has proper ventilation and moisture. It is important to maintain the temperature between 24°C and 28°C. As for the humidity level, anything between 55% and 70% is fine. You can mist the enclosure regularly to maintain these conditions. Since isopods love hiding spots, you should add plenty of leaf litter, bark, and small caves to their enclosure. Preparing a moist substrate for Thai Blue Angel is important. In this case, coconut fibre mixed with organic soil works best. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Feeding The good thing about Thai Blue Angel isopods is that they are not fussy eaters. However, providing them with a balanced diet is important to keep them healthy. In their natural habitat, they consume a lot of decaying organic material. This makes it easier to supplement their diet with various food sources when captivity. One of the most essential components of their diet is leaf litter because it mimics their natural food source. It is recommended that they be given oak and maple leaves, as they are their favourites. You should also provide small amounts of vegetables like carrots, cucumbers, and squash, which are great sources of hydration and nutrients. For fibre, you can provide soft, decayed wood from non-toxic trees. You can give them a small piece of cuttlebone to meet their calcium requirements. This is essential to maintain their exoskeleton. Lastly, you can feed them protein-rich foods like fish flakes or dried shrimp for protein. Providing these food items can help your isopods maintain a balanced diet. Just make sure to feed them in small amounts. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Thai Blue Angel isopods are visually striking creatures, mainly because of their blue and white colour combination. They also have white or cream-coloured bands across their bodies. Their segmented exoskeleton allows them to curl into a tight ball when threatened, a behaviour known as conglobation. The size of an adult Thai Blue Angel ranges between 12 and 20 mm, which make them relatively smaller than other Cubaris species. These isopods are generally shy and prefer to stay hidden during the day. They come during the evening or at night to feed and explore. They are non-aggressive and move slowly, making it easier to care for them. Thai Blue Angel isopods are known for their social behaviour. They often huddle together in groups, especially when hiding under leaf litter or bark. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Habitat If you plan to keep Thai Blue Angel isopods as pets, it is important to create a suitable habitat for them. To do this, you need to replicate their natural habitat. Since these isopods come from Thailand’s humid rainforests, it is important to maintain the humidity level between 55% and 70%. You can achieve this by regularly misting their enclosure. The temperature should be between 24°C and 28°C. In winter, a heat source, like a heat mat, can be added if necessary. As mentioned before, you must create hiding spots for your isopods. You can include pieces of bark, rocks, and small shelters for this. This will make your isopods more secure as they will have plenty of hiding places. Last, it would help if you scattered leaf litter and moss around the enclosure to create a natural, forest-like floor. This provides additional food and moisture. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Substrate Mix The substrate is one of the most critical elements of an isopod habitat. It is the foundation for them to burrow, feed, and reproduce. You should prepare a moist and nutrient-rich substrate for Thai Blue Angel isopods. You can use coconut fibre or coir as the base. These materials better retain moisture and are soft enough for isopods to burrow into. You will also need organic and pesticide-free soil to add essential nutrients to the substrate. Small pieces of decayed wood should be added as an additional food source. Adding a layer of leaf litter can also provide food and create a more natural environment for the isopods.

Cubaris sp. "Lemon Blue" is a premium Thai Cubaris renowned for its striking bicoloured appearance—bright lemon yellow body with blue-tinged inner segments that flash in the light. Native to Thailand and parts of China, they're among the more visually impressive Cubaris species available, though their colouration requires dietary attention to maintain. They're not a beginner species despite some claims—their slower breeding, colour maintenance requirements, and sensitivity to conditions make them better suited to keepers with Cubaris experience. For those ready for the commitment, few isopods match their visual impact when properly cared for. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand, China Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Lemon Blue" Maintenance required: Medium to High Average Size: 1.5-2 cm Rarity: High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, carrot, sweet potato, butternut squash Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, calcium powder, bee pollen Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Introduction Lemon Blue isopods originate from tropical and temperate regions of Thailand and China. Their natural habitat provides the warm, humid conditions they require, though they're somewhat more tolerant of humidity variation than some cave-dwelling Cubaris species. The "Lemon Blue" name accurately describes their appearance: a bright lemon-yellow body with blue colouration visible on the inner pereon segments. When light catches them at the right angle, the blue tones flash attractively against the yellow background. The overall effect is genuinely eye-catching—they're described as looking like "candy" and the comparison isn't unreasonable. However, there's an important caveat: their vibrant colouration isn't guaranteed. Lemon Blues can fade or lose colour intensity without appropriate diet. Maintaining their striking appearance requires consistent feeding of carotenoid-rich foods. This isn't a species you can neglect and expect to remain visually impressive. They're also slower breeders than many Cubaris species. Colony establishment takes time—expect 3-4 months minimum before seeing stable breeding. This combination of colour maintenance needs and slower reproduction means they require more ongoing attention than hardier species. The seller's own notes are honest: "We find these not as forgiving as some other isopods so not something for a beginner as they also require a little more maintenance." This is accurate. They're a species for keepers who've successfully maintained other Cubaris and are ready for something more demanding. Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5-2 cm Bright lemon-yellow body colouration (when properly maintained) Blue-tinged inner pereon segments visible through the exoskeleton The blue colour "flashes" when light hits at certain angles Hard exoskeleton (not suitable as feeder isopods) Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Colouration deepens and improves with age in well-maintained specimens Colour can fade with inadequate diet or poor conditions The visual impact depends significantly on care quality. Well-maintained Lemon Blues are genuinely stunning; neglected ones can look disappointingly muted. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue display some distinctive behavioural traits. Social behaviour: Semi-social. Unlike strongly social isopods that cluster tightly, Lemon Blues are more tolerant of individual space. They can live alone without obvious distress, though they do fine in groups. As populations grow, they become more active and visible within their enclosure. Activity patterns: Active species once established. They move around their enclosure more than some shy Cubaris species. However, they may hide around other creatures or when disturbed. Temperament: Bold but non-aggressive. They're described as confident pets that don't display aggression toward each other or tank mates. Response to disturbance: May hide initially but generally less skittish than some Cubaris species once established. Conglobation: Capable of rolling into a defensive ball when threatened, though they don't do so as readily as some species. Diet Diet is particularly important for Lemon Blues—their signature colouration depends on it. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying organic matter Cork bark Colour-enhancing foods (essential): Carrot (excellent source of carotenoids) Sweet potato Butternut squash Cucumber Foods containing astaxanthin Foods containing carotene Supplementary foods: Fish flakes and fish food Dried shrimp (gammarus) Spirulina Fresh fruits (banana, mango) Dried fruit pieces Bee pollen Insect jelly Lichen Calcium: Essential for healthy moulting. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, oyster shell, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Protein: Regular protein supplementation through fish flakes, dried shrimp, or bat guano supports healthy growth and breeding. Colour maintenance: This cannot be overstated: inconsistent feeding causes colour loss. Regular offerings of carrot, sweet potato, and butternut squash maintain and deepen their lemon-yellow colouration. The blue tones seem less diet-dependent but overall vibrancy requires nutritional attention. Well-fed specimens develop richer, deeper colours as they age; neglected ones fade. Feeding approach: More frequent feeding than some species may be needed to maintain colouration. Ensure colour-enhancing foods are offered several times weekly, not just occasionally. Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Breeding Lemon Blues are slower breeders than many Cubaris species—set expectations accordingly. Breeding rate: Slow compared to other Cubaris. The seller notes they breed slower than similar species like Ambers even under identical conditions. Don't expect rapid population growth. Colony establishment: Expect 3-4 months minimum before seeing stable breeding activity. This is slower than many popular Cubaris species. Breeding requirements: Appropriate humidity (60-80%) Stable warm temperatures (22-27°C ideal) Consistent, colour-maintaining diet Adequate calcium Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Brood characteristics: Moderate brood sizes when breeding does occur. Population growth is gradual rather than explosive. Tips for success: Patience is essential. Provide optimal conditions consistently rather than expecting quick results. Starting with larger groups (10+) provides better breeding potential. Maintain excellent nutrition—healthy, well-fed isopods breed more reliably than stressed or malnourished ones. Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions balances humidity with adequate ventilation. Enclosure: A container or terrarium with controlled ventilation. They need humidity retention but tolerate slightly more airflow than some cave-dwelling Cubaris. Plastic containers with limited ventilation holes or glass terrariums work well. Size should accommodate their active nature—they appreciate space to move. Substrate: Deep substrate supporting humidity and their natural behaviours: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout for moisture retention Crushed limestone or calcium powder incorporated generously Hardwood leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for additional moisture retention Depth of 8-10cm allows burrowing and maintains stable humidity. Humidity: 60-80%—they handle a broader range than some Cubaris but still need consistent moisture: Maintain moist substrate throughout Provide moisture gradient (drier and damper areas) Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches help retain moisture Monitor conditions—they're less forgiving of extremes than hardy species Ventilation: Low to medium. They tolerate slightly more airflow than strict cave-dwelling species but still need humidity retention prioritised. Small ventilation holes rather than fully open mesh. Lighting: Avoid direct light. Keep enclosures in shaded or dimly lit locations. They're not as strictly photophobic as some species but prefer subdued lighting. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes (essential hiding spots) Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Decaying wood pieces Multiple hiding options throughout Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in heated UK homes typically works, with attention during cold spells. Bioactive Use Lemon Blues can function in bioactive setups but considerations apply. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Display vivariums where visual impact matters Humid setups with moderate conditions Advantages: Striking visual appeal adds genuine interest Active behaviour makes them more visible than shy species Hard exoskeletons mean they're not easily predated Considerations: Premium pricing makes them expensive as purely functional cleanup crew Slower breeding limits population recovery Colour maintenance needs mean they're not "set and forget" Hard exoskeletons make them unsuitable as feeders Not suitable as feeders: Their hard exoskeletons make them a poor choice for feeding to other animals. If you need feeder isopods, choose softer species bred for that purpose. Suitability Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue suit experienced keepers wanting visually impressive isopods. Good choice for: Keepers with successful Cubaris experience wanting something special Collectors seeking premium, visually striking species Those willing to commit to colour-maintaining feeding regimes Display setups where appearance matters Patient keepers not expecting rapid colony growth Not ideal for: Beginners (gain experience with hardier Cubaris first) Keepers wanting low-maintenance species Those expecting rapid breeding Budget-focused bioactive cleanup Anyone unwilling to maintain consistent feeding schedules Care level: Medium to high difficulty. They're described as "not as forgiving" as other isopods, and this is accurate. Their needs aren't extreme, but they require more consistent attention than hardy species. The colour maintenance aspect adds ongoing work that simpler species don't demand. Realistic expectations: Don't expect the vibrant colours shown in photos to maintain themselves automatically. Expect to actively work at keeping them looking their best through regular carotenoid-rich feeding. Expect slow breeding and patient colony development. Expect a rewarding species if you put in the effort—and a disappointing one if you don't. The seller's honest observation: "When we first got them we were not too excited when we saw them but after settling in the colours really changed and seem to also improve with age." This is realistic—newly arrived specimens often look underwhelming. Given time, proper conditions, and appropriate diet, they develop into the stunning animals their reputation suggests. Patience and care are rewarded.

Soil isopods were thought to belong to the cubaris family however more recently were reclassified as Troglodillo sp. They are larger species compared to other isopods. These species have a very dark colour and white antennae. Exotic pets communities love and admire their unique appearance and striking features.   Soil Isopods: Summary Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris/Troglodillo sp Maintenance: Low Size: 1.5 cm to 2 cm Rarity: High Temperature: 75F to 80F Humidity: 60% to 80% Supplements: Cuttlebone, calcium powder   Soil Isopods: Introduction Soil Isopods are native to Southeast Asia. Their exoskeleton is dark black-purple in colour. Due to this rare colour combination, they have got the nicknames “Gothic Isopod” and “The Black Evil”.    These critters, unlike other isopods, like to live on flat rock surfaces. Their range of activity is very small. They prefer wet and humid climates like their original habitat.    Soil Isopods: Characteristics and Behaviour Their origin is in the tropical climates of Vietnam. They are one of the largest in Cubaris sp. They grow up to 2 cm. These species are similar to Purple Giant isopods of Cubaris sp. They like wet habitats with high humidity and in shaded areas. During summers or dry days, they like to live in caves with water resources and moisture.  They are detritivores. They are less active during the summer. During rainy seasons, they spread everywhere and are highly proactive. They have a hard carapace with a dark colour and white antennae. Unlike their name, “Gothic Isopods” and “The Black Evil”, these creatures look adorable with their rubber duck faces. They are big compared to other Cubaris sp.   Soil Isopods: Feeding Soil Isopods are omnivorous. For Soil Isopods to thrive and breed, healthy community nutrition is crucial. A balanced meal of plant matter, vegetables, rotten wood, and greens will help keep the isopods healthy.   They also need protein in their diet. Therefore, meat scraps, mushrooms and other complex protein foods can help maintain their exoskeleton.    Alternate food supplements can be given once or twice a month. Calcium powder and cuttlefish bone are some of the substitutes for Soil Isopods.   Soil Isopods: Natural Habitat Soil isopods live in wet and humid conditions. These creatures are found more in shaded and humid habitats. During the summer season, their activity becomes low, and they tend to live in places where there is water source and moisture. When the season changes and it starts raining, these creatures become more active, and they spread everywhere. Therefore, it is observed that these isopods love wet and moist environments.  Soil Isopods: Care and Breeding Soil Isopods of Cubaris sp. are rare species of isopods. Breeding of isopods is a bit difficult from other isopod species. The care and maintenance tips are as follows:   An enclosure made of plastic or glass will be suitable for Soil Isopods. It is necessary to maintain the temperature of the enclosure around 75°F These creatures love humid and wet habitats. Therefore, humidity has to be on the higher end. Make sure there is no stagnation of water inside the enclosure. Soil isopods appreciate wet and humid enclosures, not waterlogged enclosures. Provide an enclosure with small ventilation to allow airflow. These isopods prefer to live in shade. Therefore, keep them in a dark, shaded area. Provide deep substrate to the enclosure. Thicker substrate helps maintain a consistent environment. Add sphagnum moss as it helps in retaining and providing moisture to the enclosed environment. Supply suitable calcium supplements once or twice a week. Add limestone to the substrate as a supplement and also to mimic the environment.   Soil Isopod: Setting of Artificial Environment To rear a Soil Isopod, it is important to mimic its natural habit. By understanding their natural habitat, we can provide that in any artificial setting.   Soil isopods are from a tropical climate with a wet and humid environment. They're found among dead and decaying organic matter. These nourish their body by consuming decaying matter.    Therefore, the enclosure for the vivarium or terrarium should mimic the atmosphere of their original habitat. Maintaining a wet and humid substrate with high temperature is crucial.    Before adding your isopods into any artificial setting, make sure they're of the same species. Mixing various species of isopods can cause clashes as it is their inherent trait to dominate other species. Therefore, it is crucial to keep them in their colonies. The Soil Isopods can tolerate extreme temperatures. But for them to breed, it is necessary to provide the optimum temperature; for the Soil Isopods to breed, temperature should be maintained around 70°F to 80°F. Make sure that this temperature is maintained, as sudden changes in temperature can affect these creatures.   Almost all isopods require warm and moist surroundings. Soil isopods like their surroundings wet and humid, i.e., they prefer high humidity. Therefore, it is necessary to keep a humidity gradient of around 75% to maintain an optimal environment. Also, add some moss to maintain the humidity in the enclosure.   Ventilation is crucial as it prevents unwanted pests from entering the enclosure. High humidity attracts mould, fruit flies, mites and gnats. Therefore, cross ventilation should be provided to prevent excess moisture accumulation.   Soil Isopod: Substrate A suitable substrate mix is necessary for the moisture-loving isopods. For Soil Isopods, the substrate has to be such that it holds moisture and water, provides a suitable base to hold moisture and digging, and is compact and resistant, unlike soil, drainage and long-lasting.  The ABG substrate mixture is ideal for Soil Isopods. The ABG substrate mix helps keep the balance of the artificial ecosystem and maintains the nutrition for the isopods. ABG substrate contains the mixture of the following:     Orchid Bark Charcoal Tree Fern Fibre Peat Moss   This substrate mix is suitable for the Soil isopods. This mix helps them to mimic their natural environment.    Additionally, to make their environment more realistic to their natural settings, provide dried leaves and rotting wood into their enclosure. Also, add powdered limestone to the substrate. These provide food for the isopods and also a place for them to bring out their natural character of gathering and hiding.   In conclusion, a well-balanced substrate mix helps them to thrive and breed. The Soil Isopods are extremely rare and are hard to breed. But they need to be kept under observation. Adding water to the substrate when needed and keeping in check with their diet and nutrition should keep them healthy and happy.

Murina Papaya Isopods also known as cubaris Murina is often referred to as entry-level cubaris species. These species don't have any distinct colour or markings, but they are the best bioactive custodians of their genus. They are a natural fit for the terrariums and vivariums.   Cubaris Murina: Synopsis Place of Origin: Indo-Pacific region, North America Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Lifespan: 1-4 years Difficulty level:  Medium Temperature Range: 62℉-83℉ Size: 1 cm Rareness: Medium Humidity Range: 70% -80% Preferred Diet: fungi, bacteria, algae and other detritus Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, bat guano, calcium powder Cubaris Murina: Abstract These isopods adapt to various environments. These isopods are mainly found in the Pacific region, the Caribbean area, and North America. The scientific name "Cubaris murina" is derived from the Latin name "cube," which means "to lie," and "marina," representing a group of mollusks. This name is due to the fact that they are mistaken as little sea creatures and also because of their smooth, small bodies.  Characteristics Papaya isopods have a smooth and small body and is often mistaken as a sea creature due to its appearance. These species are great clean-up crews in terrariums and vivariums. They have a moderate reproduction rate. These isopods are easy to care for and are great for beginners. They are found in multiple types of habitats. Due to this, they are widely sought after. They are the best entry-level species with a forgiving nature.  Little Sea Isopods: Morphs These species, which have either been cultured or found in the wild, are found in different patterns and colors.  Papaya: They are dull pink and are believed to be an albino version. These isopods are popular among enthusiasts. Glacier: It is an almost completely white variety. They have white eyes, legs, and antennae. Anemone: This isopod is a variety of speckled patterns of orange and grey. Florida Orange: The orange variety of the isopod discovered in the wild in Florida, hence the name. Murina Papaya Isopods: Food  Even Though the isopods are very small in size, their appetite is not very small. Feeding is essential to continue their life cycle. There are better methods than feeding them with random decaying material. The food supplied should be the perfect blend of various materials, ensuring that the isopods get all the required nutrients. The decaying organic matter should be placed in the corner of the container, forming the basis for their feeding. In addition to the organic matter, litters of leaf and decaying wood will help them maintain a healthy condition. Other than the naturally available materials, special supplements are designed to provide the perfect mix of required nutrients for the isopod. Supplying them with these designed foods can help them make healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Breeding The two main components for them to breed in abundance are the perfect food with the right amount of nutrients and a comfortable environment. Both can be achieved by using naturally available materials and man-made settings. Reproducing healthy offspring relates to the size and the regular structure.  A study was conducted in 2009 on these species, and it was discovered that they can produce decent-sized broods quickly.  This makes them a reliable species for different kinds of terrariums. These species can proliferate in a culture where there is low density compared to a high-density culture. Cubaris Murina: Natural Environment The environment provided by Mother Nature to the isopods is humid in nature. To adjust to the temperature and humidity, they have the ability to burrow themselves inside their living area, which helps them maintain their preferred living conditions. Due to this ability, they are seen in many parts of the world where there is a perfect blend of moist and humid environments. These isopods come out of their burrow whenever they feel the environmental conditions are safe for them. With a large appetite, they will hunt for their food any time of the day. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Artificial Enclosure Setting It is always difficult to set up an artificially made environment that is 100% comfortable for the isopods. But with the advancements in technology, an environment that can mimic the natural environment can be set up, which can ensure a near-to-comfortable climate for the papaya isopods. These artificial settings are achieved by using humidity controllers and temperature regulators. Based on the sensor feedback, the system adjusts the conditions itself, providing the isopods with a misty environment, almost matching their natural environment. Proper care of the system has to be ensured as a wrong sensor feedback may create a difference in temperature or humidity, resulting in an uncomfortable environment. This will affect the lifespan as well as the ability to reproduce. For an artificial setting, start with a shoebox-size plastic container.  They do not reproduce in a short period of time. Therefore, the same box can be used for a longer period of time. It is to be ensured that sufficient ventilation is provided in the artificially designed environment.   Habitat and Substrate Mix They generally adapt to all kinds of environments. However, their preferred environment is a moist one.  While setting up the artificial environment, it is best to provide a moisture-retaining element for the isopods to have comfortable living conditions.  Placing coconut coir inside their habitat can help mimic their natural environment, as it helps them to burrow inside. In addition, the bark of orchid trees and sphagnum moss are very good elements for locking the moisture inside the enclosure.  Earthworm casting is one of the main sources of nutrients, which will help them to produce healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Basic Care Proper care must be provided to culture and maintain these isopods. It is crucial to clean the enclosure regularly. Not maintaining hygiene may attract unwanted pests and affect the isopod's health. While making provision for ventilation, it is to be ensured that mesh is provided to prevent these critters from escaping. Monitor the enclosure and make sure that the humidity and temperature are maintained. Provide supplements to meet their overall nutritional needs. Also, while placing the enclosure, keeping them in a dark place away from sunlight is essential.