Cubaris Isopods (54)

I have comprehensive information. Here's the rewritten product description: White Shark Isopods (Cubaris sp. 'White Shark') are a delightful dwarf Cubaris species that pack incredible visual appeal into a tiny package. Originating from Thailand, these miniature isopods display a striking tricolour pattern - orange, white, and dark blue-black sections arranged in sequential bands that make them genuinely eye-catching despite their diminutive size. Don't let the intimidating name fool you - at just 8mm fully grown, these are among the smallest Cubaris species available. What they lack in size, they more than make up for in personality, colouration, and breeding potential. Once established, White Sharks are surprisingly prolific and make an excellent gateway species for keepers wanting to move from beginner isopods into the world of Cubaris. Their distinctive appearance has earned them cult status in the hobby. The combination of a bright orange "face," white midsection, and dark rear creates a pattern unlike almost any other isopod. Some individuals show variations where the black appears more navy blue, or the orange leans towards red - genetic variation that adds interest to any colony. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'White Shark' Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium Size: Up to 8mm (dwarf species) Temperature: 24-28°C Humidity: 60-80% Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview White Shark Isopods belong to the Cubaris genus - a group renowned for attractive colouration, the characteristic "duck face" appearance, and the ability to roll into a perfect ball when threatened. While many Cubaris species carry reputations for being difficult and expensive, White Sharks are refreshingly accessible. They're one of the few Cubaris that combine stunning looks with genuinely beginner-friendly care. Their small size is the first thing keepers notice. Fully grown adults reach approximately 8mm (around 1/4 inch), making them true dwarf isopods. This compact size makes them perfect for smaller terrariums where larger species would overwhelm the space. Despite being tiny, established colonies are surprisingly visible - particularly at feeding time when they'll swarm a piece of carrot or vegetable. White Sharks originate from tropical Thailand, where they inhabit humid environments rich in decomposing organic matter. They've adapted to life in consistently moist conditions with high lime content in the soil - important considerations when setting up their enclosure. One of their best qualities is their breeding potential. Unlike some Cubaris species that are notoriously slow or difficult to breed, White Sharks reproduce readily once established and comfortable. A small starter colony can multiply significantly within 2-3 months under proper care. Basic Care White Shark Isopods require typical Cubaris care: warm temperatures, high humidity, and attention to environmental stability. They're more forgiving than premium Cubaris species like Rubber Duckies but still need proper conditions to thrive. Temperature should be maintained between 24-28°C (75-80°F). Consistent warmth encourages activity and breeding. Avoid temperature fluctuations where possible. Humidity is crucial - aim for 60-80%. The enclosure should be kept predominantly moist (approximately 80% damp, 20% drier), but never waterlogged. Too much dampness causes moulting issues and sudden die-offs, a common problem with Cubaris species. The key is maintaining humidity without creating soggy conditions. Unlike some Cubaris that prefer very low ventilation, White Sharks benefit from moderate airflow. Small ventilation holes help prevent stagnation and mould while maintaining necessary humidity levels. Too little ventilation causes problems; too much drops humidity too quickly. Finding the balance is important. Provide a deep substrate (7-10cm / 3-4 inches) to allow for their natural burrowing behaviour. White Sharks are enthusiastic burrowers and spend much of their time beneath the surface, particularly when preparing to moult or breed. A smaller enclosure is actually preferable when starting with a new colony. Being dwarf isopods, if they're too spread out in a large space, they'll struggle to find each other for breeding. A 6-8 quart container is ideal for a starter culture of 10-20 individuals. Feeding White Shark Isopods are detritivores with hearty appetites relative to their tiny size. They require a high-nutrition diet to support their active metabolism and breeding. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak is excellent) Rotting white wood pieces Sphagnum moss Lichens and forest moss Supplementary foods (offered regularly, at least twice weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, cucumber, squash Fish food/flakes Dried shrimp, minnows, or insects (protein source) Commercial isopod foods Calcium and protein supplementation is particularly important for this species. White Sharks are notably protein-hungry compared to some isopods. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Limestone powder or pieces Crushed oyster shell Eggshells Adding limestone to the enclosure mimics their natural Thai habitat, where they live in high lime-content soils. A useful observation tip: placing a small piece of carrot in the enclosure will quickly become "caked" with White Sharks feeding - adults and babies alike. This is an excellent way to observe your colony without disturbing them by digging through the substrate. Feed protein sources on the drier side of the enclosure, as they spoil quickly in humid conditions and can attract pests. Appearance and Behaviour White Shark Isopods are instantly recognisable for their striking tricolour pattern. From front to back, they display sequential bands of colour: a bright orange "face" and head region, a white midsection, and a dark blue-black rear section. This creates a visually striking contrast that's genuinely impressive despite their tiny size. Colour intensity and exact patterning varies between individuals due to natural genetic variation. Some specimens show more navy blue than black, others lean towards red-orange rather than pure orange. This variation adds visual interest to colonies. Adults reach approximately 8mm in length - true dwarf status among isopods. Their bodies show the characteristic rounded, segmented shape of Cubaris species with the adorable "duck face" that makes the genus so popular. Behaviourally, White Sharks are shy and reclusive, spending much of their time burrowed in the substrate. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most of their foraging at night, though established colonies will venture out during the day - particularly when food is available. Like all Cubaris, they can roll into a tight, complete ball (conglobation) when threatened. When disturbed, they tend to scatter quickly and seek hiding spots rather than curling up immediately. They're social creatures that do well in groups. High-density colonies are actually more active and visible than sparse ones, as the isopods feel more secure with others around. Habitat White Shark Isopods originate from tropical Thailand and require conditions that replicate their humid, warm native environment. For housing, use a plastic container with ventilation or a glass terrarium. Smaller containers (6-8 quart) are actually preferable for starter cultures - dwarf isopods in large spaces take longer to find each other and begin breeding. Temperature: Maintain 24-28°C consistently. Warmth encourages activity and reproduction. Humidity: Aim for 60-80%, with approximately 80% of the enclosure kept moist and 20% drier. High humidity is essential, but avoid waterlogged conditions. Ventilation: Moderate. Small ventilation holes help prevent stagnation and mould while maintaining humidity. A secure lid with mesh-covered vents works well. Substrate depth: Provide 7-10cm (3-4 inches) minimum to allow comfortable burrowing. White Sharks are enthusiastic burrowers and spend considerable time beneath the surface. Hiding spots: Unlike some Cubaris that congregate under cork bark, White Sharks typically prefer burrowing in the substrate itself. Piles of leaf litter and decaying wood provide cover without requiring cork bark (though it can be included if desired). Avoid direct sunlight and extreme temperature fluctuations. Substrate Mix Creating the right substrate is essential for White Shark success. The mix provides food, maintains humidity, allows burrowing, and should include calcium-rich elements to mimic their natural habitat. Option 1 - ABG Mix Base: ABG (Atlanta Botanical Garden) mix provides an excellent foundation with good drainage, water retention, nutrient retention, and compaction resistance. Standard ABG mix components: Sphagnum moss - 1 part Tree fern fibre - 2 parts Orchid bark - 2 parts Peat moss - 1 part Charcoal - 1 part Layer on top: oak leaf litter, cottonwood bark, live moss Option 2 - Alternative Mix: Coconut humus/coir Mixed soil Wooden bark pieces Orchid moss Sphagnum moss Essential additions to either mix: Limestone powder (mimics their high-lime Thai habitat) Cuttlefish bone pieces Rotting white wood Generous leaf litter covering Create a thick substrate base (7-10cm minimum) to support their burrowing behaviour. The substrate should feel damp when squeezed but not dripping wet. Adding decaying wood pieces, cork bark, and piles of leaf litter helps with excess moisture control and provides food sources. Breeding White Shark Isopods are among the more prolific Cubaris species once established. They breed readily under proper conditions, making them an excellent choice for keepers wanting to build a colony. New colonies typically need about a month to acclimate to their environment before breeding begins. During this settling-in period, focus on maintaining stable conditions and don't expect immediate reproduction. Once established, White Sharks can multiply quickly. A starter colony of 10-12 individuals can grow significantly within 2-3 months under optimal care. They're described as "fairly prolific on a regular basis" once conditions are right. For optimal breeding success, maintain temperatures at the higher end of their range (26-28°C), keep humidity at 60-80%, provide deep substrate for burrowing, ensure constant calcium availability, and offer regular protein supplementation. Females carry fertilised eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) until they hatch. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without separation, though some keepers prefer to move juveniles to prevent any risk of predation in crowded conditions. Monitor colony size as breeding progresses. White Sharks reproduce well, and populations can grow quickly. Be prepared to upgrade enclosure size or split colonies as numbers increase. White Shark Isopods as Bioactive Cleanup Crew White Shark Isopods make excellent additions to bioactive terrariums, efficiently processing organic waste despite their small size. Their diminutive stature actually makes them well-suited to smaller terrariums where larger isopod species would be overwhelming. As detritivores, they eagerly consume leaf litter, decaying wood, leftover food, faecal matter, and decomposing plant material. This natural cleanup behaviour helps maintain enclosure hygiene and reduces mould risk. Their high breeding rate means colonies can sustain themselves as a cleanup crew while potentially providing a calcium-rich food source for small terrarium inhabitants that can safely consume them. For bioactive use, ensure the enclosure provides appropriate humidity and temperature for White Sharks while meeting the needs of other inhabitants. Their preference for burrowing means they'll spend much time in the substrate, aerating it while processing organic matter.

This is Cubaris sp. "Panda King" - one of the most popular Cubaris species with their distinctive black and white colouration. The current description mentions coco coir in the substrate section which I'll remove. At 60% off with prices starting at £10 for 10, these are exceptionally good value for a Cubaris species. I'll write a comprehensive description in your format. Cubaris sp. "Panda King" is one of the most recognisable and popular Cubaris species in the hobby, named for their striking black and white colouration reminiscent of giant pandas. Originating from limestone caves in Vietnam, they've become a gateway species for many keepers entering the world of Cubaris isopods. Their attractive appearance, reasonable care requirements, and—at current pricing—exceptional value make them an obvious choice for anyone wanting to keep Cubaris without the steep costs and demanding husbandry of rarer species. Once established, they breed prolifically, making colony-building genuinely achievable. A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam (limestone caves, central and northern regions) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Panda King" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1-1.5 cm Rarity: Low to Medium (widely available) Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-27°C (70-80°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying vegetation, vegetables, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells Cubaris sp. Panda King: Introduction Panda King isopods originate from limestone caves and karst formations in central and northern Vietnam. These environments are characterised by high humidity, darkness, consistent temperatures, and calcium-rich substrates—conditions that directly inform their captive care requirements. The "Panda" name is apt. Their black and white patterning genuinely evokes the appearance of giant pandas, making them immediately recognisable even to people unfamiliar with isopods. This visual appeal, combined with relatively straightforward care compared to more demanding Cubaris species, has made them one of the most popular introductions to the genus. What distinguishes Panda Kings from many premium Cubaris is their willingness to breed once established. While some Cubaris species are notoriously slow and difficult to breed, Panda Kings produce offspring reliably under appropriate conditions. This means colonies actually grow rather than stagnating or declining—a genuine advantage for keepers wanting to build populations rather than simply maintain small groups indefinitely. At current sale pricing (60% off), they represent exceptional value. The opportunity to acquire Cubaris with genuine visual appeal at these prices makes them accessible to keepers who might otherwise be priced out of the genus entirely. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1-1.5 cm Distinctive black and white patterned exoskeleton The patterning genuinely resembles panda colouration—not a stretch Relatively soft exoskeleton compared to some species Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Compact, rounded body shape typical of Cubaris Pattern varies slightly between individuals but maintains the panda aesthetic Their size is modest—they're not large isopods—but their colouration makes them visually striking despite their compact dimensions. Behaviour Panda King isopods display typical Cubaris behaviours with characteristics that make them rewarding to keep. Activity patterns: Nocturnal. They're most active in darkness and prefer dim conditions. During the day, expect them to remain hidden in substrate or under cover. Evening and night hours bring increased activity. Temperament: Shy initially but become bolder once established. New colonies may hide extensively; settled colonies venture out more confidently. Patience during the establishment phase pays off. Conglobation: They roll into defensive balls when disturbed—classic isopod behaviour. This response is reliable. Burrowing: Active burrowers that dig into substrate seeking moisture and security. Deep substrate accommodates this natural behaviour and reduces stress. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They cluster together comfortably, forming loose colonies. Offspring stay near mothers initially, creating family groupings within the colony. Colony dynamics: Once established and comfortable, they breed actively. Colonies can grow substantially over time—a significant advantage over slow-breeding Cubaris species. Diet Panda King isopods are not fussy eaters and accept a wide variety of foods. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying plant matter Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato, squash Occasional fruits Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Commercial isopod foods Calcium requirements: Higher than many species—their limestone cave origins mean they're adapted to calcium-rich environments. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, crushed eggshells, or calcium powder generously. Inadequate calcium causes moulting problems and poor colony health. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports growth and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, or earthworm castings provide appropriate protein sources. Feeding approach: Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood as baseline food. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources regularly. They're good eaters but avoid overfeeding fresh foods—excess can attract pests. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Breeding Panda Kings are among the more reliable Cubaris breeders—a significant advantage. Breeding rate: Good once established. They're described as breeding "rapidly" once acclimated, which is accurate compared to many Cubaris species. Don't expect immediate results with new colonies, but established groups produce offspring consistently. Breeding behaviour: Males transfer sperm to females during mating. Females carry developing eggs, and juveniles emerge after approximately six weeks. Young stay close to mothers initially, forming family clusters within the colony. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-80%) Stable warm temperatures (22-26°C ideal) Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance during establishment Colony establishment: New colonies need time to acclimate before breeding begins. Keep them in appropriate conditions, minimise disturbance, and allow them to settle. Once comfortable, breeding follows naturally. Tips for success: Patience during establishment is essential. Resist the urge to constantly check on them or disturb the enclosure. Stable, undisturbed conditions encourage faster acclimation and breeding onset. Starting with larger groups (20+) provides better genetic diversity and faster colony establishment. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid limestone cave environment. Enclosure: A container with limited ventilation to maintain humidity. Plastic containers with minimal ventilation holes work well for culturing; glass enclosures allow viewing but require careful humidity management. Start with a smaller container during acclimation, then transfer to larger enclosures as colonies grow. Secure lids prevent escapes and maintain humidity levels. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—aim for 10cm (4 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout Crushed limestone generously incorporated (essential given their limestone cave origins) Hardwood leaf litter layered on top (magnolia leaves are excellent) Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for moisture retention The limestone/calcium content is particularly important. Their natural habitat is calcium-rich; replicate this in the substrate. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-80%: Maintain consistently moist substrate Provide moisture gradient (some areas slightly drier, some damper) Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches retain moisture between misting Limited ventilation preserves humidity Avoid waterlogging—moist, not wet. Excess standing water causes problems. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Restrict airflow to maintain humidity. Small ventilation holes rather than mesh lids. Their cave origins mean they're adapted to still, humid air—excessive ventilation drops humidity to harmful levels. Lighting: They strongly prefer darkness. Keep enclosures in dark or dimly lit locations. Bright light causes stress and inhibits natural behaviour. If displaying them, position enclosures away from direct light. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark sections Dried oak leaves Magnolia leaves (excellent for moisture retention and shelter) Sphagnum moss patches Limestone pieces (functional and aesthetic) Multiple hiding options throughout the enclosure reduce stress and encourage natural behaviour. Temperature: 21-27°C (70-80°F). Room temperature in heated UK homes typically works. Avoid cold locations and temperature extremes. Consistent warmth supports activity and breeding. Springtails: Highly recommended. High-humidity environments can develop mould; springtails consume mould and maintain enclosure hygiene. They coexist peacefully with Panda Kings and benefit overall enclosure health. Bioactive Use Panda King isopods can function in bioactive setups meeting their requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko enclosures Snail terrariums (compatible humidity requirements) Advantages: Attractive appearance adds visual interest Reliable breeding means populations recover and grow Effective decomposers Soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional feeders for small animals Peaceful coexistence with other cleanup crew Considerations: Require consistently high humidity Soft exoskeletons mean some animals may eat them (advantage or disadvantage depending on intent) Not suitable for arid setups Need establishment time before thriving As feeders: Their relatively soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional feeders for poison dart frogs and other small insectivores. However, at their price point (even discounted), dedicated feeder colonies of cheaper species may be more economical for regular feeding purposes. Tank Mates Panda Kings coexist well with appropriate tank mates. Compatible: Springtails (highly recommended—mutual benefits) Snails (similar humidity requirements) Other humidity-loving isopods (in large enclosures with distinct microhabitats) Dart frogs (though predation will occur) Small tropical geckos Considerations: Tank mates should share humidity requirements Predatory animals will eat them—factor this into stocking decisions Mixing isopod species requires adequate space and resources to prevent competition Suitability Panda King isopods suit a wide range of keepers. Excellent choice for: First-time Cubaris keepers Those wanting attractive isopods at accessible prices Keepers building breeding colonies Humid bioactive setups Anyone wanting Cubaris without premium pricing Beginners with some basic isopod experience Not ideal for: Complete beginners with zero isopod experience (start with P. scaber) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers unable to maintain consistent humidity Those wanting immediate results (establishment takes time) Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're considered beginner-friendly within the Cubaris genus—not as forgiving as hardy Porcellio species, but significantly more accessible than demanding premium Cubaris. Keepers who can maintain stable humidity and resist over-handling will succeed. Value assessment: At current sale pricing (60% off, starting at £10 for 10), they represent outstanding value. This pricing makes Cubaris keeping accessible to hobbyists who might otherwise never try the genus. The combination of attractive appearance, reasonable care requirements, and reliable breeding makes them genuinely recommendable rather than just "cheap." Expectations: Expect shy behaviour initially that improves as colonies establish. Expect attractive isopods that reward patient, hands-off husbandry with steady population growth. Don't expect instant breeding or tolerance of poor conditions. With appropriate care, Panda Kings deliver on their reputation as an excellent introduction to Cubaris keeping.

Rubber Ducky Isopods (Cubaris sp. 'Rubber Ducky') are the most iconic and sought-after isopods in the hobby. Discovered in 2017 in the limestone caves of Thailand, these charming creatures took the isopod world by storm and essentially created the "designer isopod" category. Their adorable yellow faces genuinely resemble tiny rubber ducks - a resemblance that sparked global fascination and transformed isopod keeping from a niche interest into a mainstream hobby. Native to dark, humid cave environments rich in calcium, Rubber Duckies have specific care requirements that set them apart from common isopod species. They reward patient, consistent care rather than constant tinkering, and while they're more challenging than beginner species, they're entirely manageable for dedicated keepers willing to meet their needs. These are the isopods that started it all. While many beautiful Cubaris species have since been discovered - Panda Kings, Amber Duckies, Lemon Blues - the original Rubber Ducky remains the gold standard and continues to captivate keepers worldwide. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (limestone caves) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Rubber Ducky' Difficulty Level: Medium to Advanced Size: Up to 1.5-2cm Lifespan: 3-5 years Temperature: 22-28°C (24-27°C optimal) Humidity: 70-85% Rarity: High (still sought-after despite increased availability) An Overview The Rubber Ducky Isopod's discovery in Thailand's limestone caves in 2017 marked a turning point for the isopod hobby. Before then, isopod keeping was largely focused on common species used as bioactive cleanup crews. The Rubber Ducky changed everything - here was an isopod so visually appealing, with such obvious personality, that people wanted to keep them purely as pets. Their name comes from their unmistakable appearance. When viewed from the front, their faces feature a bright yellow "beak" that genuinely resembles a rubber duck toy. Their bodies display attractive yellow and brown colouration with distinct painted tail sections. Each isopod varies slightly in pattern intensity and colour distribution. Taxonomically, Rubber Duckies remain formally undescribed - they're known only by their trade name and designated as Cubaris sp. (species undetermined). This is common in the hobby, where many stunning isopods from Southeast Asia await scientific description. Understanding their natural habitat is key to successful care. They originate from dark limestone caves with extremely high humidity, stable warm temperatures, and calcium-rich substrates. Replicating these conditions - particularly the high calcium availability and consistent moisture - is essential for their health and breeding success. While challenging compared to beginner species, Rubber Duckies are manageable for keepers who research their needs and maintain consistent conditions. They're slower-growing and slower-breeding than many species, requiring patience, but established colonies can breed year-round and produce 2-10 offspring per brood (with advanced keepers reporting broods of 10-20+). Colour Variants Several colour variants and related morphs exist within the Rubber Ducky lineage: Original/OG Rubber Ducky - The classic yellow-faced variety with brown body colouration. Blonde Rubber Ducky - Features lighter, more blonde-yellow face colouration that holds true through breeding. Pak Chong - A related variety with bold pink face colouration instead of yellow. Red Pak Chong - Displays red face colouration with slight red tones throughout the exoskeleton. If maintaining pure lineages matters to you, keep different varieties separate to avoid mixing genetics. Basic Care Rubber Ducky Isopods require more attention to environmental conditions than common species, but their needs are straightforward once understood. The key is consistency - they thrive with stable conditions rather than frequent adjustments. Temperature should be maintained between 22-28°C, with 24-27°C (75-80°F) being optimal. Consistent warmth encourages activity and breeding. Avoid temperature fluctuations. Humidity is critical - aim for 70-85%. Their native limestone caves are extremely humid, and they cannot tolerate dry conditions. However, the enclosure should be moist, not waterlogged. Create a humidity gradient with approximately two-thirds kept damp and one-third drier, allowing them to self-regulate. Ventilation is important despite the high humidity requirement. Stagnant air promotes mould and fungal issues. Provide moderate ventilation - enough for air exchange without rapidly dropping humidity. Small ventilation holes with some covered (to retain moisture) work well. Substrate depth should be generous - at least 15cm (6 inches) is recommended. Rubber Duckies are enthusiastic burrowers and spend significant time deep in the substrate, particularly before and after moulting. Deep substrate also helps maintain stable humidity and temperature. pH sensitivity - Rubber Duckies are reportedly sensitive to high acidity. Incorporating limestone into your substrate helps buffer pH and mimics their native cave environment. They're shy and secretive by nature. Once disturbed, they often conglobate (roll into a ball) and may remain that way for extended periods. Minimise disturbance - they do better when left largely alone to establish their own routines. Feeding Rubber Ducky Isopods are detritivores requiring a varied, nutrient-rich diet with particular emphasis on calcium and protein. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak, magnolia - pesticide-free is essential) Rotting white wood pieces Sphagnum moss and forest moss Lichens Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - cucumbers, sweet potatoes, carrots, courgette Protein sources - dried shrimp, fish flakes, dried minnows, crickets Commercial isopod foods Calcium supplementation is absolutely essential for this species. Their native limestone caves provided abundant calcium carbonate, which they use to build their exoskeletons. Colonies thrive when calcium is readily available. Provide multiple calcium sources: Limestone pieces or powder (mimics natural habitat - highly recommended) Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Crushed oyster shell Crushed coral Some keepers report that while colonies survive with just cuttlebone, they truly thrive when limestone is the primary calcium source. Protein is important for breeding success. Offer protein sources twice weekly - dried shrimp, fish flakes, or small dried insects work well. Feed small portions and remove uneaten fresh food promptly to prevent mould. These isopods eat less than larger species, so adjust quantities accordingly. Appearance and Behaviour The Rubber Ducky's appearance is what made them famous. Their faces feature a distinctive bright yellow "beak" and facial structure that genuinely resembles a miniature rubber duck toy. When viewed front-on, the resemblance is uncanny and utterly charming. Their bodies display yellow and brown colouration arranged in attractive patterns. The yellow upper body contrasts with darker brown patches, and their tails show distinct painted markings. Colouration varies between individuals, with some showing more intense yellow and others displaying deeper brown tones. Adults reach approximately 1.5-2cm in length. Their bodies are divided into seven segments, each with a pair of legs. Two legs are specialised for burrowing, allowing them to dig deep into substrate - up to six inches. Like all Cubaris, they have a hard exoskeleton that provides protection and requires regular moulting for growth. Calcium availability is crucial for healthy exoskeleton development. Two antennae on their heads serve as primary sensory organs, helping with navigation, chemical detection, and communication. Small projections called cerci on the antennae function as additional sensory organs. Behaviourally, Rubber Duckies are shy and secretive. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most foraging at night, though established colonies may venture out during the day. When disturbed, they readily conglobate into a tight ball and may remain rolled up for extended periods. They're non-aggressive and have calm temperaments. While initially wary, comfortable isopods can become surprisingly interactive - some keepers report their Rubber Duckies will sit in their hands for several minutes once trust is established. They don't typically attempt to escape when housed appropriately with sufficient food and humidity. Habitat Creating the right habitat is essential for Rubber Ducky success. Their natural limestone cave environment provides the template. Enclosure options: Plastic containers with ventilation - ideal for breeding colonies due to easy humidity control Glass terrariums - attractive for display but require careful ventilation management Minimum 10 gallons for 10-15 isopods, though they don't require large spaces Temperature: Maintain 22-28°C consistently. Warmth encourages activity and breeding. Humidity: 70-85%, with a gradient (approximately two-thirds damp, one-third drier). Mist with dechlorinated water as needed. Ventilation: Moderate - enough for air exchange without excessive humidity loss. Substrate depth: At least 15cm (6 inches) to allow deep burrowing. This is important for their moulting process and overall comfort. Lighting: Low or indirect. As cave-dwellers, they don't require bright light. Terrarium lighting can be used but shouldn't shine directly on the isopods. Water parameters: If maintaining standing water (e.g., for misting), pH should be 8.0-8.5 and hardness 10-15° DH. Hiding spots: Provide bark, cork, leaf litter, and moss. These shy isopods need secure retreats. Consider bioactive setups with live plants and springtails to create self-sustaining ecosystems. Springtails help control mould and maintain substrate health. Substrate Mix The substrate is crucial for Rubber Ducky Isopods - it provides food, maintains humidity, allows burrowing, and must supply adequate calcium to mimic their limestone cave habitat. Essential components: Decomposing wood mulch Sphagnum peat moss Coconut coir (for moisture retention) Limestone pieces or garden lime (calcium carbonate - essential) Rotting cork bark Natural leaf litter (pesticide-free oak, magnolia) Charcoal (helps with drainage and pH) Recommended ABG-style mix: Sphagnum moss - 1 part Tree fern fibre - 2 parts Orchid bark - 2 parts Peat moss - 1 part Charcoal - 1 part Add to the mix: Limestone powder/pieces throughout Crushed eggshells or cuttlebone Rotting white wood Generous leaf litter layer on top The limestone is particularly important. Rubber Duckies originate from calcium-rich limestone caves, and incorporating this mineral into the substrate has proven highly successful for many keepers. Garden lime (calcium carbonate) is an affordable, readily available option. Create depth of at least 15cm. Layer sphagnum moss over approximately one-third of the surface to create a humidity gradient. Some advanced keepers add red wiggler composting worms to increase microbial diversity in the substrate, with reported improvements in colony health and breeding success. Breeding Rubber Ducky Isopods are slower breeders than many species, but they reproduce reliably once established and comfortable. Acclimation period: New colonies typically need several months to fully acclimate before breeding begins. This can be a "painfully slow process" - patience is essential. Some keepers report waiting 6-7 months before seeing their first babies. Breeding age: Female Rubber Duckies can begin breeding at approximately three months old. Breeding frequency: Once established, they breed year-round with consistent conditions. Brood size: Typically 2-10 offspring per brood. Advanced keepers with optimised conditions report larger broods of 10-20+. Lifespan: 3-5 years with proper care, providing multiple breeding opportunities. For breeding success, maintain stable conditions with high humidity (70-85%), temperatures at 24-27°C, deep substrate for burrowing, abundant limestone/calcium, regular protein supplementation, and minimal disturbance. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) until hatching. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults. Rubber Duckies spend significant time fully submerged in the substrate before and after moulting. This burrowing behaviour is connected to breeding - deep substrate allows them to create secure chambers for reproduction. Don't be discouraged by slow initial progress. Once conditions are optimised and the colony establishes, breeding becomes more consistent.

Unlike most popular isopods of European origin, the Red Panda isopods originate in the Asian continent. These relatively smaller-sized isopods are gaining high popularity as pets; thus, quality red panda king isopods are in high demand these days. Red Panda Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Level: Medium Size: Up to 1.2 centimeters Rarity: Low/ Medium Temperature: 70℉ to 80℉ Humidity: 70% to 80% Favourite Foods: Mango, Carrot An Overview Red Panda king isopods are pretty rare when compared to their counterparts. These Asian native isopods are characterized by their impressive colour combinations. They are available in multiple colour options and are ideal for kids-friendly starting pets. Being from the humid regions of Asia, they have to have a relatively high-humid enclosure. The highlight of these isopods is their fast breeding capabilities. They are ideal to be grown in both glass and plastic enclosures. Feeding a Red Panda isopod is extremely easy as they eat anything from dried leaves to decaying softwood matter and carrots to mangoes. A moderately humid atmosphere is the best for them, and avoiding exposure to extreme weather conditions is always ideal. Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the Red Panda isopods. Use a glass vivarium or plastic containers to house Red Panda isopods.   Keep the temperature of the container within 65 to 85 degrees.   It is crucial to maintain high humidity inside the enclosure.   You can keep the ventilation holes to a minimum to avoid humidity loss.   Avoid keeping the enclosure under direct light.   Place moss on a part of the enclosure and ensure it always has enough moisture.   Use dried leaves and softwood parts to feed the isopods.   Supply suitable calcium sources such as a clacium powder or cuttlebone.   You can also provide them with protein supplements or sprinkle eggshell powder above the isopod colony. Red Panda Isopods: Feeding The Red Panda isopods are primarily detritivores. That is, they like to consume dead and decaying matter. They also consume a wide variety of food items like leaf litter, rotting wood, etc.  They usually eat pretty voraciously. Being an active group, providing them with enough healthy supplements to maintain the best health is essential. You can use supplements of vegetables, protein, calcium, etc. One of the common mistakes that Red Panda isopod owners commit is overfeeding them. Overfeeding would be a mistake because of the highly humid conditions inside the enclosure.  Any food left in high humid conditions will quickly rot and cause mold to grow. This could spoil the balance inside the enclosure and lead to many consequences. So, feeding only enough food that the isopods can finish in a single sitting is always advisable. Red Panda isopods usually crave calcium food sources. You can use crushed limestone or eggshells to satisfy their calcium needs. Red Panda Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Red Panda isopods generally grow up to 1.2 cm in length.   They come in bold colour combinations that create much visual contrast.   The patterns are generally found in strips. There are other patterns also.   As vibrant colours are usually not found among them, they cost much less than brighter-coloured isopods like the Rubber Ducky isopod.   They exhibit a beautiful glow on their body when they are young. As they premature, this glow disappears gradually.   As they don’t grow into giant worms, they are ideal for terrariums and as small pets.   They also make great entry-level pets for children with their easy-to-care nature and small physique. Red Panda Isopods: Habitat Red Panda isopods prefer an overly humid habitat. So, it would be ideal if you could provide them with a humid atmosphere where little to no moisture loss happens. You can use a quality plastic container the size of a shoe box to keep the Red Panda isopod for the time being. Once the isopod becomes familiar with the atmospheric conditions, you can shift it to a dedicated enclosure. But when in the container and the enclosure, ensure that the number of air ventilation holes is minimal. Many air holes might lead to a drop in the inside humidity and cause issues for the isopod. Also, providing a good amount of options for them to burrow deep is preferable. They are observed to be good burrowers. They try to retain their body moisture by burrowing and taking cover deep. So, while creating an ideal habitat for them, provide enough ground cover for them to burrow deep. An important thing to remember is that the high humidity inside the enclosure would often invite pests. So, adding some springtails into the enclosure is advisable to prevent pests. Springtails are also great at avoiding mold.  The Red Panda isopods exhibit excellent health and breed pretty quickly if you maintain a moderate temperature between 70 to 80 Fahrenheit. Red Panda Isopods: Substrate Mix Choosing the right substrate mix is essential to maintain a proper habitat for the Red Panda isopods. Being humidity-loving creatures, the substrate mix needs to be supportive of that.  A substrate mix with good water retention capabilities would be ideal for maintaining high humidity inside a Red Panda enclosure. As detritivores, they would find it helpful to have some leaf litter and softwood barks in the substrate mix. While arranging the substrate mix inside the enclosure, add it in enough depth. As mentioned before, Red Panda isopods prefer to dig extremely deep for moisture control. So, the enclosure should have enough substrate mix to support that.  Red Panda isopods also like to have as many hiding spots as possible. So, you can add items like coconut halves, cork bark, lotus pods, etc., in the substrate mix for hiding. Earthworm castings are another addition that you can consider for the substrate mix for extra nutritional qualities.  Experts recommend providing a coco coir layer at the very bottom before laying the substrate mix. At the top of the substrate, you can add a thick layer of leaf litter and softwood barks at the top of the substrate. It is generally observed that the deep burrowing of Red Panda isopods replenishes the substrate mix with all the essential nutrients.

Cubaris White Side or Penguin isopods belong to the Cubaris sp. These isopods are named after their dark colour with white markings along the side, like a Penguin, thus making them unique and visually appealing. Due to this striking feature, they are sought after by enthusiasts and hobbyists worldwide. They make a great addition to the terrarium and vivarium. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Synopsis Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris Sp. Maintenance level: Moderate. Size: 0.8 cm Rarity: Low Breeding: Medium (slow to get established but then breed very quickly) Temperature: 70°F to 80°F Humidity: 70% to 80% Supplements: Cuttlebone Favourite Food: Vegetables, meat scraps, fish food White Side/Penguin Isopods: Origin The first class of isopods to be found in Vietnam were the White Side isopods. In 2017, they were discovered within the limestone caverns. The White Side Isopod was later renamed as Cubaris White Isopod. Numerous species have not been fully characterized under the ambiguous genus Cubaris. Since its discovery, this species has become popular, and its population has boomed due to increased demand.Due to their striking features and colour, these creatures look adorable and are loved among exotic pet lovers.  White Side/Penguin Isopods: Characteristics and Behavioral Insights They can grow up to 0.8 cm long. These isopods have dark bodies with white markings on the edges resembling “penguins.” They are social in behaviour. They exhibit behaviours like foraging and grooming. They roll into a ball when they feel threatened or face any danger. Although they can withstand any temperature, the optimal range for breeding temperatures is around 70°F to 80°F An arid environment is lethal for White Side Penguin isopods. Difficult to breed. Once these isopods are established in a healthy environment, they produce offspring. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Feeding Habits Like all isopods, they are detritivores in nature. They eat rotten plants and other organic matter for nourishment. In their artificial habitat, their diet should include varieties of vegetables, fish pellets, leaf litter, commercial bug food and supplements rich in calcium like Cuttlebone. This helps maintain a healthy exoskeleton and produce healthy offspring. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Breeding White Side ‘Penguin’ Isopods are slow to breed in the beginning. They have to first establish a healthy environment before they start generating. Once they set in their bioactive, they start producing their offspring. The ideal temperature for these species should be around 25°C, and the humidity gradient should be higher. Breeding activity can be monitored by observing their behaviour during the mating process. Regular monitoring of their offspring is required for the young isopods to sustain. In addition, feeding them with decaying wood and leaves will improve their health, thus giving them healthy offspring. Genetically different isopods can be introduced to their environment to prevent inbreeding. Moreover, constant monitoring and attention are required to maintain the population of isopods. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Natural Dwelling Cubaris sp. Penguin isopods in nature thrive in humid and thick forest grooves. The Southeast Asian climate was a suitable living ground for these critters. They contribute to the environment by participating in decomposition by feeding on dead and decayed matter. It is crucial to understand the environment so that they can thrive in artificial environments. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Artificial Setting and Care To house a Cubaris sp. Penguin isotopes, creating an artificial setting, involve more than just the substrate mix. It includes factors like enclosure type, humidity control, textured terrains to climb and hide, substrate depth, etc. They are as follows: Providing ventilated enclosures to accommodate the need for White Side Penguin isopods. Maintaining the humidity of the environment is essential. Use mist when needed and ensure proper ventilation to avoid moisture buildup. Keep the temperature of the enclosure within 21°C to 27°C. Avoid fluctuating temperatures as it may cause stress to the creatures. Provide a thick substrate mix as they like to dig in deep to lock in the moisture inside their body. A 6-inch deep substrate will be ideal for burrowing. Providing hiding and climbing spots for these critters. Leaves, Cork bark, and hardwood provide plenty of hiding spots for them to hide. Distributing dried leaves can mimic their natural habitat. This encourages them to bring out their natural behaviour, like foraging and exploring. Isopods don’t like bright lights; therefore, keeping them in dark and quiet corners will be great. To maintain a clean environment, prevent unwanted pests, and remove uneaten food, scraps, and molten exoskeleton. White Side/ Penguin Isopod: Disease and its Cause Like other living organisms, penguin isopods are also prone to various diseases. Their health can be affected due to infections from parasites or bacteria. In addition, environmental stresses jeopardize their health. They also face challenges with moulting and deformities of their shell. Lack of moisture and nutrition leads to the death of the critters during moulting. Continuous monitoring and providing a suitable environment, ensuring hygienic conditions, will help prevent health issues. Moreover, respiratory problems and complications during reproduction are also observed in the species.  White Side/Penguin Isopods: Substrate Mix The Penguin isopod substrate mix is similar to other isopod substrates. The substrate mix helps in mimicking the environment, bringing out their natural behaviour. The substrate should also have a balanced nutrient for the creatures and their offspring to stay healthy. The substrate mix includes: Coconut coir/Coco peat: This provides a solid substrate base. They help in water retention and replicate the natural environment for them to burrow. Rotting leaves: decaying oak leaves and magnolia provide food and nutrition for the creatures. As they are detritivores, they get nourishment from consuming decaying matter. These leaves also offer hiding places for the critters.   Wood: Decayedhardwood and cork bark serve as a nutritional source and a significant aesthetic element for the enclosure. They also provide space for isopods to crawl and hide. Moss: Sphagnum moss is included in the enclosure to enhance moisture retention. They also serve as excellent hiding places for the isopods.   Sand or Gravel: A small amount of sand or gravel can be added to improve the drainage This carefully curated mix can help create a captivating and optimum breeding environment for the White Side ‘Penguin’ isopods. This method supports their needs and allows caregivers to appreciate the natural behaviour of isopods in an enclosure.

The Pink Panda King Isopods are an eye-catching species, known for their vibrant pink and white coloration. A rare and unique addition to any collection, these isopods are popular among hobbyists for their distinctive appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Ideal for bioactive enclosures, they thrive in humid environments and play an important role in maintaining the ecosystem by breaking down organic matter. Their captivating look and low maintenance make them a perfect choice for both beginners and experienced isopod enthusiasts. Insight Place of Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Panda King' Maintenance Effort:Easy Ideal Temperature Range: 70℉ - 80℉ General Size:  ~ 15mm Rareness: Low to Medium Humidity Range: 70% - 80% Preferred Diet: Fruit, vegetables, fish food  Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, eggshells Panda King Isopods: Introduction These isopods are generally observed in limestone caves and belong to central and northern parts of Vietnam. These species prefer to be in an environment which is humid. Isopods of length approximately 1.5 cm are seen generally. They play a major role in the ecosystem balancing, by feeding on the decaying plants and rotting wood. They supply nutrients to the soil by consuming the decaying matter, maintaining the balance of required nutrients in soil. Characteristics of Panda King Isopods These critters have black and white colour exoskeletons. They grow up to 1.5 cm in length.  Their striking and adorable features make them one of the most sought-after isopods. They are easy to care for and require minimum maintenance. They are beginner-friendly. They are nocturnal in nature. They breed rapidly once established in their habitat. They are detritivores in nature. It has a soft exoskeleton and is used to feed poison dart frogs and other small animals. Vegetables, greens, and fish food are good for maintaining nutrition. The consumption of calcium for these isopods is a bit higher than other isopod species. Feeding These isopods feed on almost all types of food. They are essentially scavengers and feed on organic waste. However, during confinement in a cage, it is imperative to offer optimal nutrition. They can be supplemented with vegetables, greens, rotten leaves, or even wood. For calcium and protein, dried shrimp, fish food, cuttlebone, and egg shells are great for these species growth and development. Calcium powder is also good to give as a substitute.  Most isopod owners make the mistake of overfeeding the isopods. Overfeeding attracts pests into their enclosure. Therefore, it is important to feed the necessary quantity of food.  Natural Habitat Panda King isopods live in limestone caves and taverns. These species are commonly found in the central and northern parts of Thailand. In this region, caves are abundant. The caves are dark and humid; therefore, they are suitable for the isopods.  Panda King isopods are scavengers. They are also found among rotting leaves, fruits and vegetables. These species like to live in dark areas. They are shy in nature and like to burrow and hide. It is necessary to understand their natural habitat to build an artificial habitat for these isopods. Panda King Isopods: Breeding Panda King isopods are active species ready to reproduce unless acclimated to their surroundings.  Once they adapt to their surroundings, they start producing many offspring.  These isopods have a distinct mating ritual where the male isopods transfer sperm into the female's pleopods. The offspring hatch after six weeks after the eggs are attached to a firm surface. These offspring stay close to their mother, thus forming a small colony. Artificial Habitat of Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods thrive in humid environments. They are native to the tropical climates of Asia and need moisture to stay hydrated. Keep them in a small box to help them acclimate to a new environment. Once they're comfortable, transfer them to a plastic box with ventilation. Use deep bedding, including materials like old wood, dried leaves, and moss, for a cosy habitat.  It is necessary to prevent excess moisture as they may attract pests like mold and fruit flies. To combat this, adding springtails will help keep the environment clean and free of unwanted guests. It's important to keep the humidity right for the well-being of these isopods so they have a comfortable and healthy place to live. So, with proper care and attention to their habitat, you can enjoy the delightful presence of Panda King isopods in your home. Tank Mates for Pink Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods like to live in a highly humid environment. Therefore, pairing them with similar invertebrates that appreciate humidity is best.  It is necessary that tankmates for the isopods should be from the same region as the Panda King. Therefore, invertebrates like snails are the best tank mates in terrarium and vivarium settings. Another species that is suitable to be paired with is springtails. These creatures, when together, will prevent any kinds of pests and will keep the bioactive clean. Preferred Substrate Mixture for Pink Panda King Isopods A perfect substrate blend for Panda King Isopods is one that is deep, and also holds a lot of moisture. Use a small batch of coco coir, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark for the isopods, with the substrate depth reaching approximately 4 inches for burrowing.  Magnolia leaves enhance the habitat further, contributing to moisture retention and serving as excellent shelters for Panda King Isopods and their offspring. To mimic their natural surroundings, incorporate cork bark, dried oak leaves, and other elements into the enclosure. Wooden bark pieces are added to provide hiding spots, and dried leaves are added as food and for aesthetics. Sphagnum moss helps with moisture retention, which is a crucial factor for Panda King Isopods thriving in the environment. Although ventilation is necessary, it should be minimal to maintain the desired humidity gradient within the substrate. It should have both damp and dry areas. For nutrition, add earthworm castings and limestone powder to replicate their native habitat. This all-rounder substrate mix establishes a solid foundation, offering both sustenance and hydration to the isopods. Striking a balance between the various elements encourages natural behaviours and supports the physical health of Panda King Isopods in captivity. It allows them to thrive in an artificial environment that mimics the conditions of their natural habitat.

Jupiter Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a captivating addition to any terrarium, known for their unique black and yellow exoskeleton that resembles the planet Jupiter. Native to the limestone caves of Southeast Asia, these small, low-maintenance isopods thrive in humid environments and are ideal for beginners. With their calm nature and slow breeding habits, they make a striking and manageable choice for isopod enthusiasts, perfect for both display and care. A Glimpse ●      Origin: Thailand ●      Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Jupiter Isopods" ●      Maintenance required: low ●      Average Size: 2 cm ●      Rarity: medium ●      Lifespan: 2-3 years ●      Temperature: 64℉-79℉ ●      Ventilation: Low ●      Humidity: 60-80% ●      Favorite food: Carrots, butternut squash, sweet potatoes ●      Supplements: Crushed limestone, Cuttlefish bone Jupiter Isopods: Introduction These roly polys, like other cubaris isopods, are found in limestone caves of Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries. These have a very calm temperament and is a great beginner-friendly isopods. They are active during early morning and nighttime, so you can watch these critters move around exploring the terrarium during that time. They may be similar to the lemon blue isopods, but these species have a black color on the exoskeleton and not blue. Jupiter Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics ●      These small roly polys are one of the morphs of Cubaris sp. isopods. Their color resembles the planet Jupiter, hence the name. ●      Have small oval bodies that are segmented and have antennae. They have colorful legs in the front area, which makes them unique. ●      They have yellow outlines with black segmented exoskeletons. The colours of these species are due to the acidic nature of the soil in their native land. ●      The wax layer on their exoskeleton helps with hydration, and they molt when the isopods mature and grow. ●      Absolutely delightful and low-maintenance pets which are easy to take care of. ●      These species are egg-breeding type isopods and are slow breeders. ●      These pets are kid-friendly and beginner-friendly. ●      These species are striking and visually appealing, thus making a great addition to your terrarium and vivarium. Diet Like many isopods, these species' primary food sources are rotten leaves, plants, algae, and wooden bark. When culturing them in a terrarium or vivarium, make sure to provide a balanced diet of vegetables, meat, and calcium sources. If not, these creatures are prone to soft shell disease, which may affect molting and eventually perish. Therefore, make sure to provide various types of vegetables like sweet potatoes, carrots and even vegetable scraps. These species are not picky eaters and will eat almost everything that is given to them. For protein you can include earthworm castings, fish scrap, meat scrap into their diet. Adding crushed limestone, eggshells or cuttlebone in their enclosure can improve their calcium intake and will strengthen their exoskeleton. Adin commercial isopod food mix can also help achieve the necessary nutrition for these tiny critters. Make sure to provide portions that can be completed in a single session. Observe and provide food according to the size of the culture. Jupiter Isopods: Personality These species in general have a mild and non-aggressive nature. But when there are other creatures present, then they tend to be a little skittish. They tend to hide when they sense other creatures are present. They don't like to be picked up or touched unless necessary and they roll up and freeze when they feel threatened. Though these creatures love to explore the environment and continue with their natural behaviors like foraging. They are not the best tankmates with other isopods or any other species and tend to attack if kept in a small enclosure. Therefore, it is crucial that there is space in the enclosure. These species take their time to be friendly with their human parents. With trust and patience and also by feeding them their favorite food, these species can become friendly with humans. Jupiter Isopods: Breeding ●      Jupiter isopods can lay eggs without any male isopods, i.e., they are parthenogenetic in nature. This phenomenon is quite common among the isopods. ●      They are seasonal breeders and have a slow reproduction rate compared to other species. ●      The procedure begins when the female produces an egg capsule. After that, she would usually lay the egg capsule in a damp, moist place. ●      The number of eggs in each capsule can range from one to twenty-one, depending on the species. It takes the baby isopods 6-7 weeks after hatching to mature into adults. ●      Once they hatch, they become independent and explore and forage food on their own. ●      The nymphs will molt around four times in their early lives. The Jupiter Isopods enter the reproductive cycle after reaching adulthood, and they can begin to procreate in around three weeks. Jupiter Isopods: Tips to Make an Artificial Habitat The Jupiter isopods prefer tropical climates with rich soil substrate and humidity. Providing a rich substrate mix that contains organic matter will help provide them with a more natural atmosphere for the enclosure. When choosing the enclosure, make sure that there is enough size for these species to breed and produce offspring. Therefore, it is crucial to get a 19-litre capacity plastic container as a starter for the enclosure. You can also opt for a bigger plastic enclosure of 38 litres. Drill small ventilation outlets on the container and make sure that they are small. These species thrive in a humid environment thus small outlets help prevent excess humidity. Temperature within the enclosure should be maintained the same as specified in the description as constant change in temperature may cause stress to these species. Add the substrate mix into the enclosure to make sure that there is enough thickness. A thickness of 2.5 inches is ideal for these species to dig and hide. Add sphagnum moss on one side of the enclosure. Make sure that they cover ⅓ of the container and mist the area with water. Leave the rest of the substrate dry, giving them the option to choose their environment. When adding the substrate mix, make sure to mix dried leaves into it. Sprinkle some more on top of the substrate as well. Adding egg crates and rotten bark or coconut shells can act as hiding spots for the isopod colonies. Adding these hiding spots helps to differentiate each brood and colony and it reduces competition and dominance among other colonies.

Cubaris sp. "Pak Chong" is a Thai cave isopod originating from the Pak Chong district in northeastern Thailand. Named after their collection locality, they're known for their attractive tricoloured appearance—blue-grey body, white frilled edges, and distinctive orange rear sections. Often compared to Bernese mountain dogs for their colour pattern, they combine genuine visual appeal with relatively accessible care requirements. Among Thai Cubaris, they're considered one of the easier species, breeding faster than many cave-dwelling relatives while tolerating more humidity variation than notoriously fussy species like Rubber Duckies. For keepers wanting attractive Thai Cubaris without extreme difficulty, Pak Chong are a sensible choice. Brief Intro To Pak Chongs Origin: Pak Chong district, Northeast Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Pak Chong" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.5-1.8 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-32°C (70-90°F) Ventilation: Medium (good ventilation important—cave species) Humidity: 60-75% (moderate, tolerates more variation than sensitive Cubaris) Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Introduction Pak Chong is a district in Nakhon Ratchasima Province, northeastern Thailand, known for its limestone caves and karst formations. The isopods collected from this area have adapted to cave environments—characterised by moderate humidity, good airflow, and calcium-rich substrates. What distinguishes Pak Chong from some demanding Thai cave Cubaris is their relative tolerance. While species like Rubber Ducky or White Tiger can be notoriously sensitive to conditions, Pak Chong handle humidity variation better and breed more readily. They're not bulletproof—they're still Cubaris requiring appropriate care—but they're among the more forgiving Thai species. Their colouration is genuinely attractive. The combination of blue-grey body tones, white frilled edges along each segment, and distinctive orange-red colouration on the rear (and sometimes face) creates a striking tricoloured appearance. The comparison to Bernese mountain dogs, while unusual, captures their colour distribution reasonably well. For keepers wanting to experience Thai Cubaris without immediately tackling the most demanding species, Pak Chong offer an accessible entry point. They're visually rewarding, breed reasonably well once established, and don't punish minor husbandry variations as severely as their more sensitive relatives. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5-1.8 cm Blue to grey body colouration White frilled edges along segment margins Distinctive orange to red colouration on rear segments (uropods/pleon) Some individuals show orange on the face as well Capable of conglobation (rolling into tight defensive balls) Compact, rounded body typical of Cubaris Pattern is consistent across individuals though intensity varies The tricoloured appearance makes them immediately recognisable and genuinely attractive. Well-maintained specimens display vibrant contrast between the three colour zones. Behaviour Pak Chong display interesting behavioural traits worth noting. Social behaviour: Complex social interactions. They can often be seen nudging each other, accompanied by intense antenna flickering—apparent communication behaviour. They show moisture-sharing behaviour, helping colony members maintain hydration. Defensive response: When threatened, they roll into tight defensive balls and may squeeze together in groups. This conglobation behaviour is reliable and complete. Temperature response: Interesting behavioural adaptation to temperature. When enclosure temperatures rise, they slow their movement to conserve energy for relocating to secure areas. In cooler conditions, they become more active, moving quickly across longer distances seeking food and shelter. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will emerge during the day in established colonies. Cave origins mean they prefer dim conditions. Climbing behaviour: They're climbers. In enclosures without secure lids, they may find ways to escape. Ensure enclosures are properly sealed. Burrowing: They burrow into substrate for security and humidity regulation, typical of cave-dwelling Cubaris. Diet Pak Chong are detritivores with straightforward but important dietary needs. Primary foods: Leaf litter in abundance (their main dietary staple) Decaying hardwood Rotting wood Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: potato, carrot, squash, courgette Fresh moss (they enjoy this) Mushrooms Fish flakes for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Bat guano (excellent protein source) Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting. Their cave origins mean they're adapted to calcium-rich environments. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells, or oyster shell as constant supplements. Incorporate calcium sources into the substrate as well as offering them separately. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports colony health and breeding. Shrimp meal, fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp, and bat guano all work well. Feeding approach: Their main food source should be abundant leaf litter—this forms the foundation of their diet. Supplement with protein and fresh vegetables regularly. Provide food in multiple locations to ensure all colony members can access nutrition. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Breeding Pak Chong breed reasonably well for a Thai cave Cubaris—better than many relatives. Breeding rate: Moderate. They don't breed as explosively as species like Cubaris murina, but they're among the faster-breeding Thai cave Cubaris. Once established, they reproduce frequently and reliably. Breeding characteristics: Not as slow as Rubber Ducky or similar demanding species Colonies grow at a reasonable pace with proper care Described by keepers as "great breeders" once settled Breeding requirements: Moderate humidity (60-75%) Stable warm temperatures Adequate calcium availability Sufficient protein in diet Good ventilation (cave species need airflow) Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance during establishment Colony establishment: Allow time for new colonies to settle before expecting breeding activity. Starting with larger groups (10+) provides better genetic diversity and faster establishment. Tips for success: Cave species require good ventilation—stagnant, overly humid conditions can inhibit breeding and colony health. Maintain the balance between adequate moisture and airflow. Once conditions are right, breeding follows naturally. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means understanding their cave-dwelling origins. Enclosure: A terrarium or container with good ventilation. Unlike some humidity-dependent Cubaris, Pak Chong need airflow as cave species. Enclosed containers with adequate ventilation holes work well. Secure lids are essential—they climb and will escape given opportunity. Living soil terrariums or vivariums suit them well. Size should accommodate colony growth; upsize as populations increase. Substrate: Provide nutritious substrate at least 8cm (3 inches) deep: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for structure Crushed limestone generously incorporated (essential for cave species) Leaf litter layered abundantly on top Decaying hardwood pieces Rotting wood Calcium sources mixed throughout (eggshells, limestone) Optional additions: bat guano, shrimp meal for nutrition. Humidity: Moderate humidity—60-75%. They tolerate more humidity variation than sensitive Thai cave species: Maintain moisture gradient (one side damper, one side drier) Don't let the enclosure become uniformly wet Moss on the moist side helps maintain humidity Don't let moss dry out completely Balance moisture with ventilation to prevent mould They can handle more humidity than species like White Tiger or Rubber Ducky, but avoid waterlogged conditions. Ventilation: Medium—good ventilation is important. As cave species, they need adequate airflow. Provide approximately 5cm of space above substrate for air circulation. Ventilation prevents mould growth and maintains appropriate conditions. This is a key difference from humidity-dependent tropical Cubaris that need restricted airflow. Lighting: Prefer dim conditions reflecting their cave origins. Keep enclosures away from direct sunlight and bright light sources. Position in darker areas of rooms. Temperature: 21-32°C (70-90°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in UK homes typically works. Extreme heat or cold can be harmful—maintain moderate, stable temperatures. Décor and hides: Abundant leaf litter (essential—they love it) Ample moss for hiding and exploration Cork bark pieces Flat stones or limestone pieces Multiple hiding options throughout Their climbing nature means they'll utilise vertical space if provided. Bioactive Use Pak Chong can function in bioactive setups suited to their requirements. Best suited for: Tropical vivariums with moderate humidity Terrariums with good ventilation Setups where attractive cleanup crew adds visual interest Enclosures maintaining 60-75% humidity range Advantages: Attractive tricoloured appearance More tolerant than demanding Thai Cubaris Reasonable breeding supports population maintenance Interesting social behaviour adds observational interest Considerations: Need good ventilation unlike some Cubaris Climbing behaviour requires secure enclosures Mid-range pricing means they're more investment than basic cleanup crew Not suitable for very high or very low humidity setups Less ideal for: Arid setups (too dry) Extremely humid tropical setups with poor ventilation (need airflow) Open-top enclosures (they escape) Suitability Pak Chong suit keepers wanting attractive Thai Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with basic Cubaris experience ready for Thai species Those wanting visually striking isopods at moderate prices Collectors seeking Thai cave Cubaris without demanding care Bioactive setups needing attractive cleanup crew Beginners to Cubaris who've done their research Not ideal for: Complete beginners with no isopod experience Keepers wanting either very dry or very humid conditions Those unable to provide good ventilation Open enclosures (they climb and escape) Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're among the more forgiving Thai cave Cubaris—easier than species like Rubber Ducky, White Tiger, or demanding cave locales. Their tolerance for humidity variation and reasonable breeding rate makes them accessible. However, they're still Cubaris requiring appropriate care—not as bulletproof as hardy Porcellio species. Compared to other Thai Cubaris: More forgiving than Rubber Ducky or White Tiger. Similar care to Panda King but different appearance. Breed faster than many Thai cave species. Good middle-ground option for keepers wanting Thai Cubaris aesthetics without the most demanding husbandry. Value assessment: At £35 for 5 (currently discounted), they offer good value for attractive Thai Cubaris. The tricoloured appearance is genuinely appealing, and their reasonable care requirements mean colonies are achievable rather than frustrating. Customer reviews consistently mention them as good breeders once established. Expectations: Expect attractive isopods with interesting social behaviour that reward appropriate care with steady breeding. Expect some initial establishment time before breeding begins. Don't expect the explosive breeding of hardy Porcellio or the extreme sensitivity of demanding cave species. Expect a manageable stepping stone into Thai Cubaris keeping, or simply enjoyable isopods in their own right.

Cubaris murina (Little Sea Isopods) is widely considered the entry-level Cubaris species—offering the rounded body shape and humidity requirements characteristic of the genus without the demanding care or premium pricing of rarer Cubaris. Originally from the Indo-Pacific region and now established across tropical and subtropical areas worldwide, they're adaptable, reasonably prolific, and genuinely useful as bioactive cleanup crew. Their muted grey-purple colouration with subtle peach or orange markings won't win beauty contests, but their forgiving nature and reliable breeding make them an excellent stepping stone into Cubaris keeping. A Glimpse Origin: Indo-Pacific region (now widespread globally) Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1-1.2 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 1-4 years Temperature: 17-28°C (62-83°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying organic matter, fungi, leaf litter Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, calcium powder, bat guano Cubaris murina: Introduction Cubaris murina has spread far beyond its Indo-Pacific origins, establishing populations across the Caribbean, North America, and other tropical regions. This adaptability hints at their hardiness—they're survivors that tolerate conditions many Cubaris species wouldn't accept. The common name "Little Sea Isopods" reflects their smooth, compact appearance that apparently reminded someone of marine creatures. They're entirely terrestrial, of course, but the name has stuck. The scientific name derives from Latin: "murina" meaning mouse-coloured, which accurately describes their muted grey-purple tones. What makes murina valuable for keepers is their position as a gateway Cubaris. They require the high humidity typical of the genus but forgive mistakes that would devastate sensitive species like Rubber Duckies or Panda Kings. Keepers who successfully maintain murina colonies develop the husbandry skills transferable to more demanding Cubaris without risking expensive animals in the learning process. They're not the most visually striking isopods—their muted colouration is functional rather than flashy. However, several morphs have been identified (Papaya, Glacier, Anemone, Florida Orange) that offer more visual interest while retaining the species' forgiving nature. Cubaris murina: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1-1.2 cm (small species) Muted grey or purple-grey body colouration Subtle peach or orange spots typically visible at the rear Smooth, rounded body typical of Cubaris Compact appearance—sometimes mistaken for small marine creatures Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Small size belies their robust appetite Their understated appearance is part of their charm for some keepers—they're functional animals that do their job without demanding attention. Cubaris murina: Morphs Several colour morphs have been identified, either from wild populations or captive breeding: Papaya: Dull pink colouration, believed to be an albino or reduced-pigment form. Popular among enthusiasts wanting more colour without increased difficulty. Glacier: Nearly completely white variety with white eyes, legs, and antennae. Striking appearance while retaining standard murina hardiness. Anemone: Speckled pattern combining orange and grey markings. More visually complex than the standard form. Florida Orange: Orange variety discovered in wild Florida populations. Natural colour variation maintaining the species' adaptability. These morphs typically command slightly higher prices than standard murina but remain accessible compared to premium Cubaris species. Behaviour Cubaris murina display typical Cubaris behaviours with notable adaptability. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will emerge during the day if conditions suit them—particularly in darker enclosures. They're opportunistic, coming out whenever environmental conditions feel safe. Burrowing: They burrow effectively, retreating into substrate to regulate their temperature and humidity exposure. This ability contributes to their survival across diverse habitats—they create their own microclimate when surface conditions aren't ideal. Feeding behaviour: Despite their small size, they have substantial appetites. They're active foragers that will hunt for food throughout the day when hungry. Reliable, enthusiastic eaters that process waste efficiently. Conglobation: Capable of rolling into defensive balls when threatened, though they don't do so as readily as some Cubaris species. Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with springtails and other cleanup crew species without conflict. Adaptability: Their key behavioural trait is flexibility. They adjust to varying conditions better than many Cubaris species, making them forgiving of minor husbandry errors. Diet Cubaris murina are enthusiastic, unfussy eaters. Primary foods: Decaying organic matter Fungi and bacteria (natural diet component) Leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Algae Rotting hardwood General detritus Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Commercial isopod foods Mushrooms Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports reproduction and colony health. Bat guano is specifically mentioned as beneficial; fish flakes and dried shrimp also work well. Feeding approach: Their appetite exceeds what their small size suggests. Ensure adequate food supply, particularly in growing colonies. Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources several times weekly. Remove uneaten fresh food to prevent pest attraction. Providing well-balanced nutrition—not just random decaying material—supports healthy reproduction and offspring development. Cubaris murina: Breeding Murina breed reliably under appropriate conditions—a key advantage for colony building. Breeding rate: Moderate. Research indicates they produce decent-sized broods at reasonable intervals. Not explosive breeders like some Porcellio species, but steady and reliable. Population density effect: Interestingly, studies suggest they proliferate better in lower-density cultures than high-density ones. Overcrowding may inhibit reproduction—something to consider if breeding slows in established colonies. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-80%) Stable temperatures within preferred range Adequate nutrition with good protein and calcium Appropriate substrate depth for security Moderate space (avoid severe overcrowding) Colony establishment: They don't reproduce as rapidly as hardy Porcellio species, so the same enclosure can be used for longer periods before upsizing becomes necessary. Patient colony building is rewarded with stable, self-sustaining populations. Tips for success: Maintain consistent conditions rather than perfect conditions. Their forgiving nature means minor fluctuations won't devastate breeding efforts, but stability still helps. Ensure nutrition is genuinely balanced rather than haphazard. Cubaris murina: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions balances humidity retention with their adaptable nature. Enclosure: A plastic container with ventilation works well. Shoebox-size containers suit starter colonies adequately given their slower reproduction rate. Ensure ventilation is present but not excessive—they need humidity retention. Substrate: Use moisture-retaining substrate that supports burrowing: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout for moisture retention Orchid bark pieces for structure and moisture locking Crushed limestone or calcium powder incorporated Leaf litter layered on top Sphagnum moss patches for additional moisture retention Earthworm castings mixed in for nutrition Provide adequate depth (8-10cm) to allow burrowing—their primary method of regulating personal microclimate. Humidity: 70-80%—high humidity is important but they're more tolerant than sensitive Cubaris: Maintain moist substrate throughout Provide moisture gradient where possible Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss and appropriate substrate help lock in moisture Ventilation should be present but limited to preserve humidity Ventilation: Low to medium. They need some airflow to prevent stagnation, but humidity retention takes priority. Mesh-covered ventilation holes prevent escapes while allowing air exchange. Lighting: Prefer darkness. Keep enclosures away from direct sunlight and in darker locations. They're more active and comfortable in dim conditions. Temperature: 17-28°C (62-83°F)—tolerant of a reasonable range. Room temperature in UK homes typically works, though they prefer the warmer end of their range for optimal activity and breeding. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Decaying wood pieces Multiple hiding options Their burrowing nature means much activity occurs below the surface, but surface hides encourage visible activity. Bioactive Use Cubaris murina excel as bioactive cleanup crew in humid setups. Ideal applications: Tropical bioactive enclosures Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko setups Humid planted terrariums Any high-humidity vivarium Advantages: Hardy Cubaris option for humid setups Reliable breeding maintains populations Enthusiastic feeders that process waste effectively Affordable pricing allows substantial starter populations Forgiving nature suits varied conditions Small size suits enclosures where large isopods would be problematic Considerations: Require high humidity—not suitable for arid setups Small size means they're easily eaten by some predators Less visually striking than premium species Need humidity retention that may not suit all enclosure designs Compared to other cleanup crew: More humidity-dependent than hardy Porcellio species but more forgiving than premium Cubaris. Fill the niche for keepers wanting Cubaris-style isopods in humid setups without the demanding care of sensitive species. Suitability Cubaris murina suit keepers wanting reliable, forgiving Cubaris. Excellent choice for: First-time Cubaris keepers learning genus requirements Humid bioactive setups needing reliable cleanup crew Keepers developing skills before investing in premium Cubaris Anyone wanting functional Cubaris at accessible prices Tropical vivarium projects Those who prefer subtle, functional species over flashy ones Not ideal for: Arid or low-humidity setups (choose dry-tolerant Porcellio instead) Keepers wanting visually striking display species Situations requiring rapid population explosions Those seeking rare collector's species Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're the most forgiving Cubaris commonly available—the "training wheels" of the genus. Mistakes that would kill sensitive Cubaris species are often survivable for murina colonies. This makes them ideal for developing Cubaris husbandry skills. Value assessment: At £8 for 10 (with bulk pricing to £65 for 100), they offer genuine value. Not the cheapest isopods available, but affordable access to Cubaris keeping. The skills learned maintaining murina transfer directly to more demanding species, making them an investment in future Cubaris success. Progression path: Many keepers use murina as their first Cubaris, then progress to species like Panda King, Rubber Ducky, or other premium Cubaris once they've mastered the humidity and care requirements. Success with murina builds confidence for more challenging species. Expectations: Expect reliable, adaptable isopods that reward consistent care with steady colony growth. Expect subtle colouration that won't impress visitors but indicates healthy, functional animals. Don't expect the visual impact of premium Cubaris or the explosive breeding of hardy Porcellio. Do expect an excellent foundation for Cubaris keeping that prepares you for more demanding species if that's your direction.

Unlike most other European isopods, the Cubaris Cappuccino isopods originate in Southeast Asia. These fascinating isopods are becoming very popular for their unique coloration; thus, quality Cappuccino isopods are some of the most in-demand Cubaris species right now. Cappuccino isopods make great pets and cleaners. They live in high-humidity environments. Theymake low-maintenance pets. Theyhave a whole world of behaviors and interactions. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand   Scientific Name: Cubaris   Difficulty Level: Medium   Size: Up to 2.5 Centimeters   Rarity: High   Temperature: 75 degrees Fahrenheit to 85 degrees Fahrenheit   Humidity: 70 Percent to 80 Percent   Favorite Foods: Leaf Litter, Wood   An Overview Cubaris Cappuccino isopods are rare isopods when compared to others. These Southeast Asian isopods have characterized by their unique colors and rounded bodies.They have light brown to tan bodies. They are kid-friendly and low-maintenance pets. As Cappuccino isopods come from the humid region of Southeast Asia, they will thrive in a high-humidity enclosure. The best thing about these isopods is that they possess great cleaning abilities. They can be a perfect addition to any vivarium. They are closely related to the pill bug. This comparatively small isopod has a unique coloration pattern that will remind you of a cup of cappuccino. They are unique and fascinating invertebrate species.  Cappuccino isopods are easy to keep. They make the best clean-up crew member in any enclosure. They do not need any kind of special care.  These isopods are quite resilient to changes in humidity and temperature. They are generally found in moist environments. They were first accidentally introduced to the pet trade by Thai farmers. They are gentle. Cappuccino isopods are docile creatures. You don’t have to be frightened by them. These isopods help in nutrient recycling within an enclosure. They are nocturnal. They feed at night. They love feeding on decomposing matter and leaf litter.  Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the Cappuccino isopods. Use peat moss or coconut fiber as substrate materials for your cappuccino isopod.   Keep the temperature of the container within 68°F and 77°F.   Maintain the humidity levels between 70% to 80%.    Avoid keeping the enclosure under direct light. Feeding Cappuccino isopods are primarily detritivores. These isopods love to consume fish flakes, leaf litter, wood chips, etc. Cappuccino isopods can feed on both decaying animals and plants. They are fond of rotten logs. They also consume animal droppings of insects.  These isopods consume decomposing foods and vegetables.They feed on live mosses and cuttlebone as well. Cuttlebone is rich in calcium and minerals. It makes a budget-friendly alternative of calcium carbonate. It is about 85 percent calcium. It is an ideal way of increasing your isopod’s calcium levels. Cappuccino isopods need proper nutrition. Good nutrition will help these isopods thrive in varied environments and settings. It will help them self-regulate and reproduce well. It helps them breed faster and promote a healthy population. It is really worthy supplementing their diets with nutritious food whenever possible. Owners can supplement Cappuccino isopods’ diet with dog food and fish flakes. Their diet should also include as many fruits, vegetables, and protein-rich food as possible. You can feed them food whenever their food source runs out. However, avoid overfeeding them in any case. Also, make sure the food items do not have any remaining pesticide residue. Cappuccino isopods need calcium to ensure proper development. You can use calcium supplements like calcium carbonate powder to their substrate. You can even use decaying organic matter such as wood debris, leaf litter, etc.  Cappuccino Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Cappuccino isopods create burrows to feel secure.This is why their substrate mix should be deep enough to promote this behavior.   These isopods mainly grow in humid conditions. Keep a temperature between 20-25°C to help them thrive.   These isopods are active creatures during night. You need tokeep them safely in terrarium that is designed specifically for this behavior.    These isopods are very low-maintenance. You won’t have to spend a lot of time taking care of them.   Cappuccino Isopods: Habitat Cappuccino isopods prefer humid environments with plenty of hiding places. You can use a quality plastic container to store the  Cubaris Cappuccino isopods. Make sure there are not many air holes as it can drop the humidity levels inside the enclosure. It is observed that cappuccino isopods are good burrowers. The natural habitat of Cappuccino isopods is composed of leaf litter and damp soil.  These isopods tend to enjoy living in moist areas. They prefer environments that are the perfect choice for their scavenging activities. Cappuccino isopods like a highly humid enclosure with fair ventilation and a moderate temperature. A vivarium or terrarium setup with many inlets and outlets makes the right breeding choice for these isopods. Their enclosure should be partly dry and partly wet. This will allow them to self-regulate. The enclosure should also have a sufficient amount of limestones as it makes a rich source of calcium. Calcium is very beneficial for these beautiful creatures. Cappuccino Isopods: Substrate Mix The substrate for Cubaris Cappuccino isopods should be a dynamic mix of milled sphagnum peat moss, long-fiber sphagnum moss, fine tree fern fiber, willow oak leaf litter, and orchid bark. The mix should be well-moistened. Don’t make it excessively wet. This might drown the isopods. You can also use a spray bottle to mist the substrate every few days to retain moisture within the enclosure.   Cubaris Cappuccino Isopods require moist substrate to survive and reproduce. Make sure you add a layer of sphagnum moss to help them maintain healthy isopod colonies.  Choosing the best substrate mix is important to maintain proper habitat of Cappuccino isopods. The humidity-loving creatures need a substrate mix with good water retention capabilities. As detritivores, they need leaf litter and live moss in order to thrive.  While arranging the substrate mix, make sure you add a good level of depth. This is an important step as Cappuccino isopods like to dig extremely deep for moisture control.

Murina Glacier Isopods, also known as Cubaris murina, are considered an excellent entry-level species within the Cubaris genus. Though they lack the vibrant colors or distinctive markings of other species, they are highly valued for their efficiency as bioactive custodians. These isopods are particularly well-suited for terrariums and vivariums, helping maintain a clean and balanced environment. Their adaptability and ease of care make them a popular choice for those new to the hobby. Cubaris Murina Glacier: Synopsis Place of Origin: Indo-Pacific region, North America Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Lifespan: 1-4 years Difficulty level:  Medium Temperature Range: 62℉-83℉ Size: 1 cm Rareness: Medium Humidity Range: 70% -80% Preferred Diet: fungi, bacteria, algae and other detritus Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, bat guano, calcium powder Cubaris Murina: Abstract Murina Glacier Isopods are highly adaptable to a variety of environments. These isopods are primarily found in the Pacific, the Caribbean, and North America. Their scientific name, Cubaris murina, is derived from the Latin words "cube," meaning "to lie," and "marina," which relates to sea creatures. This name reflects their smooth, small bodies, which have often led to them being mistaken for tiny sea organisms. Their ability to thrive in diverse habitats makes them a popular choice for bioactive setups. Characteristics These creatures are muted grey or purple in color with peach or orange spots at the rear end. It has a smooth and small body and is often mistaken as a sea creature due to its appearance. These species are great clean-up crews in terrariums and vivariums. They have a moderate reproduction rate. These isopods are easy to care for and are great for beginners. They are found in multiple types of habitats. Due to this, they are widely sought after. They are the best entry-level species with a forgiving nature. Murina Glacier Isopods: Morphs These species, which have either been cultured or found in the wild, are found in different patterns and colors.  Papaya: They are dull pink and are believed to be an albino version. These isopods are popular among enthusiasts. Glacier: It is an almost completely white variety. They have white eyes, legs, and antennae. Anemone: This isopod is a variety of speckled patterns of orange and grey. Florida Orange: The orange variety of the isopod discovered in the wild in Florida, hence the name. Murina Glacier Isopods: Food  Even Though the isopods are very small in size, their appetite is not very small. Feeding is essential to continue their life cycle. There are better methods than feeding them with random decaying material. The food supplied should be the perfect blend of various materials, ensuring that the isopods get all the required nutrients. The decaying organic matter should be placed in the corner of the container, forming the basis for their feeding. In addition to the organic matter, litters of leaf and decaying wood will help them maintain a healthy condition. Other than the naturally available materials, special supplements are designed to provide the perfect mix of required nutrients for the isopod. Supplying them with these designed foods can help them make healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Glacier: Breeding The two main components for them to breed in abundance are the perfect food with the right amount of nutrients and a comfortable environment. Both can be achieved by using naturally available materials and man-made settings. Reproducing healthy offspring relates to the size and the regular structure.  A study was conducted in 2009 on these species, and it was discovered that they can produce decent-sized broods quickly. This makes them a reliable species for different kinds of terrariums. These species can proliferate in a culture where there is low density compared to a high-density culture. Cubaris Murina: Natural Environment The environment provided by Mother Nature to the isopods is humid in nature. To adjust to the temperature and humidity, they have the ability to burrow themselves inside their living area, which helps them maintain their preferred living conditions. Due to this ability, they are seen in many parts of the world where there is a perfect blend of moist and humid environments. These isopods come out of their burrow whenever they feel the environmental conditions are safe for them. With a large appetite, they will hunt for their food any time of the day. Cubaris Murina Glacier Isopods: Artificial Enclosure Setting It is always difficult to set up an artificially made environment that is 100% comfortable for the isopods. But with the advancements in technology, an environment that can mimic the natural environment can be set up, which can ensure a near-to-comfortable climate for the isopods. These artificial settings are achieved by using humidity controllers and temperature regulators. Based on the sensor feedback, the system adjusts the conditions itself, providing the isopods with a misty environment, almost matching their natural environment. Proper care of the system has to be ensured as a wrong sensor feedback may create a difference in temperature or humidity, resulting in an uncomfortable environment. This will affect the lifespan as well as the ability to reproduce. For an artificial setting, start with a shoebox-size plastic container.  They do not reproduce in a short period of time. Therefore, the same box can be used for a longer period of time. It is to be ensured that sufficient ventilation is provided in the artificially designed environment.  Habitat and Substrate Mix They generally adapt to all kinds of environments. However, their preferred environment is a moist one.  While setting up the artificial environment, it is best to provide a moisture-retaining element for the isopods to have comfortable living conditions.  Placing coconut coir inside their habitat can help mimic their natural environment, as it helps them to burrow inside. In addition, the bark of orchid trees and sphagnum moss are very good elements for locking the moisture inside the enclosure.  Earthworm casting is one of the main sources of nutrients, which will help them to produce healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina: Basic Care Proper care must be provided to culture and maintain these isopods. It is crucial to clean the enclosure regularly. Not maintaining hygiene may attract unwanted pests and affect the isopod's health. While making provision for ventilation, it is to be ensured that mesh is provided to prevent these critters from escaping. Monitor the enclosure and make sure that the humidity and temperature are maintained. Provide supplements to meet their overall nutritional needs. Also, while placing the enclosure, keeping them in a dark place away from sunlight is essential.

This is Cubaris sp. "Lemon Blue" - a premium Thai Cubaris with striking yellow and blue colouration. The current description mentions coconut fibre in the substrate section which I'll remove. At £175 for 10, this is a premium species. I'll write a comprehensive description with your realistic tone. Cubaris sp. "Lemon Blue" is a premium Thai Cubaris renowned for its striking bicoloured appearance—bright lemon yellow body with blue-tinged inner segments that flash in the light. Native to Thailand and parts of China, they're among the more visually impressive Cubaris species available, though their colouration requires dietary attention to maintain. They're not a beginner species despite some claims—their slower breeding, colour maintenance requirements, and sensitivity to conditions make them better suited to keepers with Cubaris experience. For those ready for the commitment, few isopods match their visual impact when properly cared for. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand, China Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Lemon Blue" Maintenance required: Medium to High Average Size: 1.5-2 cm Rarity: High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, carrot, sweet potato, butternut squash Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, calcium powder, bee pollen Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Introduction Lemon Blue isopods originate from tropical and temperate regions of Thailand and China. Their natural habitat provides the warm, humid conditions they require, though they're somewhat more tolerant of humidity variation than some cave-dwelling Cubaris species. The "Lemon Blue" name accurately describes their appearance: a bright lemon-yellow body with blue colouration visible on the inner pereon segments. When light catches them at the right angle, the blue tones flash attractively against the yellow background. The overall effect is genuinely eye-catching—they're described as looking like "candy" and the comparison isn't unreasonable. However, there's an important caveat: their vibrant colouration isn't guaranteed. Lemon Blues can fade or lose colour intensity without appropriate diet. Maintaining their striking appearance requires consistent feeding of carotenoid-rich foods. This isn't a species you can neglect and expect to remain visually impressive. They're also slower breeders than many Cubaris species. Colony establishment takes time—expect 3-4 months minimum before seeing stable breeding. This combination of colour maintenance needs and slower reproduction means they require more ongoing attention than hardier species. The seller's own notes are honest: "We find these not as forgiving as some other isopods so not something for a beginner as they also require a little more maintenance." This is accurate. They're a species for keepers who've successfully maintained other Cubaris and are ready for something more demanding. Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5-2 cm Bright lemon-yellow body colouration (when properly maintained) Blue-tinged inner pereon segments visible through the exoskeleton The blue colour "flashes" when light hits at certain angles Hard exoskeleton (not suitable as feeder isopods) Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Colouration deepens and improves with age in well-maintained specimens Colour can fade with inadequate diet or poor conditions The visual impact depends significantly on care quality. Well-maintained Lemon Blues are genuinely stunning; neglected ones can look disappointingly muted. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue display some distinctive behavioural traits. Social behaviour: Semi-social. Unlike strongly social isopods that cluster tightly, Lemon Blues are more tolerant of individual space. They can live alone without obvious distress, though they do fine in groups. As populations grow, they become more active and visible within their enclosure. Activity patterns: Active species once established. They move around their enclosure more than some shy Cubaris species. However, they may hide around other creatures or when disturbed. Temperament: Bold but non-aggressive. They're described as confident pets that don't display aggression toward each other or tank mates. Response to disturbance: May hide initially but generally less skittish than some Cubaris species once established. Conglobation: Capable of rolling into a defensive ball when threatened, though they don't do so as readily as some species. Diet Diet is particularly important for Lemon Blues—their signature colouration depends on it. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying organic matter Cork bark Colour-enhancing foods (essential): Carrot (excellent source of carotenoids) Sweet potato Butternut squash Cucumber Foods containing astaxanthin Foods containing carotene Supplementary foods: Fish flakes and fish food Dried shrimp (gammarus) Spirulina Fresh fruits (banana, mango) Dried fruit pieces Bee pollen Insect jelly Lichen Calcium: Essential for healthy moulting. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, oyster shell, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Protein: Regular protein supplementation through fish flakes, dried shrimp, or bat guano supports healthy growth and breeding. Colour maintenance: This cannot be overstated: inconsistent feeding causes colour loss. Regular offerings of carrot, sweet potato, and butternut squash maintain and deepen their lemon-yellow colouration. The blue tones seem less diet-dependent but overall vibrancy requires nutritional attention. Well-fed specimens develop richer, deeper colours as they age; neglected ones fade. Feeding approach: More frequent feeding than some species may be needed to maintain colouration. Ensure colour-enhancing foods are offered several times weekly, not just occasionally. Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Breeding Lemon Blues are slower breeders than many Cubaris species—set expectations accordingly. Breeding rate: Slow compared to other Cubaris. The seller notes they breed slower than similar species like Ambers even under identical conditions. Don't expect rapid population growth. Colony establishment: Expect 3-4 months minimum before seeing stable breeding activity. This is slower than many popular Cubaris species. Breeding requirements: Appropriate humidity (60-80%) Stable warm temperatures (22-27°C ideal) Consistent, colour-maintaining diet Adequate calcium Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Brood characteristics: Moderate brood sizes when breeding does occur. Population growth is gradual rather than explosive. Tips for success: Patience is essential. Provide optimal conditions consistently rather than expecting quick results. Starting with larger groups (10+) provides better breeding potential. Maintain excellent nutrition—healthy, well-fed isopods breed more reliably than stressed or malnourished ones. Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions balances humidity with adequate ventilation. Enclosure: A container or terrarium with controlled ventilation. They need humidity retention but tolerate slightly more airflow than some cave-dwelling Cubaris. Plastic containers with limited ventilation holes or glass terrariums work well. Size should accommodate their active nature—they appreciate space to move. Substrate: Deep substrate supporting humidity and their natural behaviours: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout for moisture retention Crushed limestone or calcium powder incorporated generously Hardwood leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for additional moisture retention Depth of 8-10cm allows burrowing and maintains stable humidity. Humidity: 60-80%—they handle a broader range than some Cubaris but still need consistent moisture: Maintain moist substrate throughout Provide moisture gradient (drier and damper areas) Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches help retain moisture Monitor conditions—they're less forgiving of extremes than hardy species Ventilation: Low to medium. They tolerate slightly more airflow than strict cave-dwelling species but still need humidity retention prioritised. Small ventilation holes rather than fully open mesh. Lighting: Avoid direct light. Keep enclosures in shaded or dimly lit locations. They're not as strictly photophobic as some species but prefer subdued lighting. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes (essential hiding spots) Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Decaying wood pieces Multiple hiding options throughout Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in heated UK homes typically works, with attention during cold spells. Bioactive Use Lemon Blues can function in bioactive setups but considerations apply. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Display vivariums where visual impact matters Humid setups with moderate conditions Advantages: Striking visual appeal adds genuine interest Active behaviour makes them more visible than shy species Hard exoskeletons mean they're not easily predated Considerations: Premium pricing makes them expensive as purely functional cleanup crew Slower breeding limits population recovery Colour maintenance needs mean they're not "set and forget" Hard exoskeletons make them unsuitable as feeders Not suitable as feeders: Their hard exoskeletons make them a poor choice for feeding to other animals. If you need feeder isopods, choose softer species bred for that purpose. Suitability Cubaris sp. Lemon Blue suit experienced keepers wanting visually impressive isopods. Good choice for: Keepers with successful Cubaris experience wanting something special Collectors seeking premium, visually striking species Those willing to commit to colour-maintaining feeding regimes Display setups where appearance matters Patient keepers not expecting rapid colony growth Not ideal for: Beginners (gain experience with hardier Cubaris first) Keepers wanting low-maintenance species Those expecting rapid breeding Budget-focused bioactive cleanup Anyone unwilling to maintain consistent feeding schedules Care level: Medium to high difficulty. They're described as "not as forgiving" as other isopods, and this is accurate. Their needs aren't extreme, but they require more consistent attention than hardy species. The colour maintenance aspect adds ongoing work that simpler species don't demand. Realistic expectations: Don't expect the vibrant colours shown in photos to maintain themselves automatically. Expect to actively work at keeping them looking their best through regular carotenoid-rich feeding. Expect slow breeding and patient colony development. Expect a rewarding species if you put in the effort—and a disappointing one if you don't. Value assessment: At £175 for 10, they're a significant investment. The value lies in their genuine visual appeal when properly maintained—few isopods look as striking as healthy, well-fed Lemon Blues. However, that visual impact requires ongoing commitment. They're worth the price for keepers who'll provide that care; they're an expensive disappointment for those who won't. The seller's honest observation: "When we first got them we were not too excited when we saw them but after settling in the colours really changed and seem to also improve with age." This is realistic—newly arrived specimens often look underwhelming. Given time, proper conditions, and appropriate diet, they develop into the stunning animals their reputation suggests. Patience and care are rewarded.

Murina Papaya Isopods also known as cubaris Murina is often referred to as entry-level cubaris species. These species don't have any distinct colour or markings, but they are the best bioactive custodians of their genus. They are a natural fit for the terrariums and vivariums.   Cubaris Murina: Synopsis Place of Origin: Indo-Pacific region, North America Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Lifespan: 1-4 years Difficulty level:  Medium Temperature Range: 62℉-83℉ Size: 1 cm Rareness: Medium Humidity Range: 70% -80% Preferred Diet: fungi, bacteria, algae and other detritus Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, bat guano, calcium powder Cubaris Murina: Abstract These isopods adapt to various environments. These isopods are mainly found in the Pacific region, the Caribbean area, and North America. The scientific name "Cubaris murina" is derived from the Latin name "cube," which means "to lie," and "marina," representing a group of mollusks. This name is due to the fact that they are mistaken as little sea creatures and also because of their smooth, small bodies.  Characteristics Papaya isopods have a smooth and small body and is often mistaken as a sea creature due to its appearance. These species are great clean-up crews in terrariums and vivariums. They have a moderate reproduction rate. These isopods are easy to care for and are great for beginners. They are found in multiple types of habitats. Due to this, they are widely sought after. They are the best entry-level species with a forgiving nature.  Little Sea Isopods: Morphs These species, which have either been cultured or found in the wild, are found in different patterns and colors.  Papaya: They are dull pink and are believed to be an albino version. These isopods are popular among enthusiasts. Glacier: It is an almost completely white variety. They have white eyes, legs, and antennae. Anemone: This isopod is a variety of speckled patterns of orange and grey. Florida Orange: The orange variety of the isopod discovered in the wild in Florida, hence the name. Murina Papaya Isopods: Food  Even Though the isopods are very small in size, their appetite is not very small. Feeding is essential to continue their life cycle. There are better methods than feeding them with random decaying material. The food supplied should be the perfect blend of various materials, ensuring that the isopods get all the required nutrients. The decaying organic matter should be placed in the corner of the container, forming the basis for their feeding. In addition to the organic matter, litters of leaf and decaying wood will help them maintain a healthy condition. Other than the naturally available materials, special supplements are designed to provide the perfect mix of required nutrients for the isopod. Supplying them with these designed foods can help them make healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Breeding The two main components for them to breed in abundance are the perfect food with the right amount of nutrients and a comfortable environment. Both can be achieved by using naturally available materials and man-made settings. Reproducing healthy offspring relates to the size and the regular structure.  A study was conducted in 2009 on these species, and it was discovered that they can produce decent-sized broods quickly.  This makes them a reliable species for different kinds of terrariums. These species can proliferate in a culture where there is low density compared to a high-density culture. Cubaris Murina: Natural Environment The environment provided by Mother Nature to the isopods is humid in nature. To adjust to the temperature and humidity, they have the ability to burrow themselves inside their living area, which helps them maintain their preferred living conditions. Due to this ability, they are seen in many parts of the world where there is a perfect blend of moist and humid environments. These isopods come out of their burrow whenever they feel the environmental conditions are safe for them. With a large appetite, they will hunt for their food any time of the day. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Artificial Enclosure Setting It is always difficult to set up an artificially made environment that is 100% comfortable for the isopods. But with the advancements in technology, an environment that can mimic the natural environment can be set up, which can ensure a near-to-comfortable climate for the papaya isopods. These artificial settings are achieved by using humidity controllers and temperature regulators. Based on the sensor feedback, the system adjusts the conditions itself, providing the isopods with a misty environment, almost matching their natural environment. Proper care of the system has to be ensured as a wrong sensor feedback may create a difference in temperature or humidity, resulting in an uncomfortable environment. This will affect the lifespan as well as the ability to reproduce. For an artificial setting, start with a shoebox-size plastic container.  They do not reproduce in a short period of time. Therefore, the same box can be used for a longer period of time. It is to be ensured that sufficient ventilation is provided in the artificially designed environment.   Habitat and Substrate Mix They generally adapt to all kinds of environments. However, their preferred environment is a moist one.  While setting up the artificial environment, it is best to provide a moisture-retaining element for the isopods to have comfortable living conditions.  Placing coconut coir inside their habitat can help mimic their natural environment, as it helps them to burrow inside. In addition, the bark of orchid trees and sphagnum moss are very good elements for locking the moisture inside the enclosure.  Earthworm casting is one of the main sources of nutrients, which will help them to produce healthy offspring. Cubaris Murina Papaya Isopods: Basic Care Proper care must be provided to culture and maintain these isopods. It is crucial to clean the enclosure regularly. Not maintaining hygiene may attract unwanted pests and affect the isopod's health. While making provision for ventilation, it is to be ensured that mesh is provided to prevent these critters from escaping. Monitor the enclosure and make sure that the humidity and temperature are maintained. Provide supplements to meet their overall nutritional needs. Also, while placing the enclosure, keeping them in a dark place away from sunlight is essential.  

Thai Blue Angels are a particular isopod species native to Thailand. It is primarily found in the country’s lush environments and thrives in humid habitats. Whether you are a seasoned isopod keeper or a curious newcomer, it is important to understand the care requirements of these creatures before they arrive at your home. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Level: Moderate/Easy Size: 12-20 mm Rarity: Moderately rare Temperature: 24°C to 28°C Humidity: 55-70% Favourite Foods: Fish food, fruits, greens, veggies, greens, rotting white wood, green moss, kinshi, lichen, decaying leaves, and moulting of reptiles and invertebrates Thai Blue Angel Isopods: An Overview Scientifically known as Cubaris sp, Thai Blue Angel isopods have become popular exotic pets because they are an uncommon species of terrestrial crustaceans. Belonging to the genus family, this species is often regarded as attractive for its portable size, striking appearance, and behaviour. As many might not know, this isopod species is native to the rainforests of Thailand. They live in high-humidity environments and need to be kept in bioactive vivariums and terrariums. The unique colour combination of blue and white sets them apart from other isopods. Their roly-poly behaviour, when disturbed, makes them a favourite among collectors and hobbyists. Unlike other isopods, Thai Blue Angel requires little care, making it ideal for beginners. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Basic Care To take care of Thai Blue Angels, creating a similar environment to their natural habitat is important. Since they come from tropical regions, it is essential to maintain the right temperature and humidity levels. This way, you can keep your isopods happy and healthy. Here’s what you need to do: You can use a plastic container or glass terrarium as an enclosure. However, make sure that it has proper ventilation and moisture. It is important to maintain the temperature between 24°C and 28°C. As for the humidity level, anything between 55% and 70% is fine. You can mist the enclosure regularly to maintain these conditions. Since isopods love hiding spots, you should add plenty of leaf litter, bark, and small caves to their enclosure. Preparing a moist substrate for Thai Blue Angel is important. In this case, coconut fibre mixed with organic soil works best. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Feeding The good thing about Thai Blue Angel isopods is that they are not fussy eaters. However, providing them with a balanced diet is important to keep them healthy. In their natural habitat, they consume a lot of decaying organic material. This makes it easier to supplement their diet with various food sources when captivity. One of the most essential components of their diet is leaf litter because it mimics their natural food source. It is recommended that they be given oak and maple leaves, as they are their favourites. You should also provide small amounts of vegetables like carrots, cucumbers, and squash, which are great sources of hydration and nutrients. For fibre, you can provide soft, decayed wood from non-toxic trees. You can give them a small piece of cuttlebone to meet their calcium requirements. This is essential to maintain their exoskeleton. Lastly, you can feed them protein-rich foods like fish flakes or dried shrimp for protein. Providing these food items can help your isopods maintain a balanced diet. Just make sure to feed them in small amounts. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Thai Blue Angel isopods are visually striking creatures, mainly because of their blue and white colour combination. They also have white or cream-coloured bands across their bodies. Their segmented exoskeleton allows them to curl into a tight ball when threatened, a behaviour known as conglobation. The size of an adult Thai Blue Angel ranges between 12 and 20 mm, which make them relatively smaller than other Cubaris species. These isopods are generally shy and prefer to stay hidden during the day. They come during the evening or at night to feed and explore. They are non-aggressive and move slowly, making it easier to care for them. Thai Blue Angel isopods are known for their social behaviour. They often huddle together in groups, especially when hiding under leaf litter or bark. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Habitat If you plan to keep Thai Blue Angel isopods as pets, it is important to create a suitable habitat for them. To do this, you need to replicate their natural habitat. Since these isopods come from Thailand’s humid rainforests, it is important to maintain the humidity level between 55% and 70%. You can achieve this by regularly misting their enclosure. The temperature should be between 24°C and 28°C. In winter, a heat source, like a heat mat, can be added if necessary. As mentioned before, you must create hiding spots for your isopods. You can include pieces of bark, rocks, and small shelters for this. This will make your isopods more secure as they will have plenty of hiding places. Last, it would help if you scattered leaf litter and moss around the enclosure to create a natural, forest-like floor. This provides additional food and moisture. Thai Blue Angel Isopods: Substrate Mix The substrate is one of the most critical elements of an isopod habitat. It is the foundation for them to burrow, feed, and reproduce. You should prepare a moist and nutrient-rich substrate for Thai Blue Angel isopods. You can use coconut fibre or coir as the base. These materials better retain moisture and are soft enough for isopods to burrow into. You will also need organic and pesticide-free soil to add essential nutrients to the substrate. Small pieces of decayed wood should be added as an additional food source. Adding a layer of leaf litter can also provide food and create a more natural environment for the isopods.

Soil isopods were thought to belong to the cubaris family however more recently were reclassified as Troglodillo sp. They are larger species compared to other isopods. These species have a very dark colour and white antennae. Exotic pets communities love and admire their unique appearance and striking features.   Soil Isopods: Summary Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris/Troglodillo sp Maintenance: Low Size: 1.5 cm to 2 cm Rarity: High Temperature: 75F to 80F Humidity: 60% to 80% Supplements: Cuttlebone, calcium powder   Soil Isopods: Introduction Soil Isopods are native to Southeast Asia. Their exoskeleton is dark black-purple in colour. Due to this rare colour combination, they have got the nicknames “Gothic Isopod” and “The Black Evil”.    These critters, unlike other isopods, like to live on flat rock surfaces. Their range of activity is very small. They prefer wet and humid climates like their original habitat.    Soil Isopods: Characteristics and Behaviour Their origin is in the tropical climates of Vietnam. They are one of the largest in Cubaris sp. They grow up to 2 cm. These species are similar to Purple Giant isopods of Cubaris sp. They like wet habitats with high humidity and in shaded areas. During summers or dry days, they like to live in caves with water resources and moisture.  They are detritivores. They are less active during the summer. During rainy seasons, they spread everywhere and are highly proactive. They have a hard carapace with a dark colour and white antennae. Unlike their name, “Gothic Isopods” and “The Black Evil”, these creatures look adorable with their rubber duck faces. They are big compared to other Cubaris sp.   Soil Isopods: Feeding Soil Isopods are omnivorous. For Soil Isopods to thrive and breed, healthy community nutrition is crucial. A balanced meal of plant matter, vegetables, rotten wood, and greens will help keep the isopods healthy.   They also need protein in their diet. Therefore, meat scraps, mushrooms and other complex protein foods can help maintain their exoskeleton.    Alternate food supplements can be given once or twice a month. Calcium powder and cuttlefish bone are some of the substitutes for Soil Isopods.   Soil Isopods: Natural Habitat Soil isopods live in wet and humid conditions. These creatures are found more in shaded and humid habitats. During the summer season, their activity becomes low, and they tend to live in places where there is water source and moisture. When the season changes and it starts raining, these creatures become more active, and they spread everywhere. Therefore, it is observed that these isopods love wet and moist environments.  Soil Isopods: Care and Breeding Soil Isopods of Cubaris sp. are rare species of isopods. Breeding of isopods is a bit difficult from other isopod species. The care and maintenance tips are as follows:   An enclosure made of plastic or glass will be suitable for Soil Isopods. It is necessary to maintain the temperature of the enclosure around 75°F These creatures love humid and wet habitats. Therefore, humidity has to be on the higher end. Make sure there is no stagnation of water inside the enclosure. Soil isopods appreciate wet and humid enclosures, not waterlogged enclosures. Provide an enclosure with small ventilation to allow airflow. These isopods prefer to live in shade. Therefore, keep them in a dark, shaded area. Provide deep substrate to the enclosure. Thicker substrate helps maintain a consistent environment. Add sphagnum moss as it helps in retaining and providing moisture to the enclosed environment. Supply suitable calcium supplements once or twice a week. Add limestone to the substrate as a supplement and also to mimic the environment.   Soil Isopod: Setting of Artificial Environment To rear a Soil Isopod, it is important to mimic its natural habit. By understanding their natural habitat, we can provide that in any artificial setting.   Soil isopods are from a tropical climate with a wet and humid environment. They're found among dead and decaying organic matter. These nourish their body by consuming decaying matter.    Therefore, the enclosure for the vivarium or terrarium should mimic the atmosphere of their original habitat. Maintaining a wet and humid substrate with high temperature is crucial.    Before adding your isopods into any artificial setting, make sure they're of the same species. Mixing various species of isopods can cause clashes as it is their inherent trait to dominate other species. Therefore, it is crucial to keep them in their colonies. The Soil Isopods can tolerate extreme temperatures. But for them to breed, it is necessary to provide the optimum temperature; for the Soil Isopods to breed, temperature should be maintained around 70°F to 80°F. Make sure that this temperature is maintained, as sudden changes in temperature can affect these creatures.   Almost all isopods require warm and moist surroundings. Soil isopods like their surroundings wet and humid, i.e., they prefer high humidity. Therefore, it is necessary to keep a humidity gradient of around 75% to maintain an optimal environment. Also, add some moss to maintain the humidity in the enclosure.   Ventilation is crucial as it prevents unwanted pests from entering the enclosure. High humidity attracts mould, fruit flies, mites and gnats. Therefore, cross ventilation should be provided to prevent excess moisture accumulation.   Soil Isopod: Substrate A suitable substrate mix is necessary for the moisture-loving isopods. For Soil Isopods, the substrate has to be such that it holds moisture and water, provides a suitable base to hold moisture and digging, and is compact and resistant, unlike soil, drainage and long-lasting.  The ABG substrate mixture is ideal for Soil Isopods. The ABG substrate mix helps keep the balance of the artificial ecosystem and maintains the nutrition for the isopods. ABG substrate contains the mixture of the following:     Orchid Bark Charcoal Tree Fern Fibre Peat Moss   This substrate mix is suitable for the Soil isopods. This mix helps them to mimic their natural environment.    Additionally, to make their environment more realistic to their natural settings, provide dried leaves and rotting wood into their enclosure. Also, add powdered limestone to the substrate. These provide food for the isopods and also a place for them to bring out their natural character of gathering and hiding.   In conclusion, a well-balanced substrate mix helps them to thrive and breed. The Soil Isopods are extremely rare and are hard to breed. But they need to be kept under observation. Adding water to the substrate when needed and keeping in check with their diet and nutrition should keep them healthy and happy.