All Isopods (185)

Originally from North Africa, Dairy Cow isopods are increasingly gaining widespread attention as a beginner-friendly pet. The name of these isopods itself generates curiosity among the public. Their black and white combination color and the bioactive potential are the two unique selling points of these great pods. A Glimpse Origin: North Africa Scientific Name: Porcellio Laevis Difficulty Level: Low Size: Up to 2.3 centimeters Rarity:  Low Temperature: 70F to 85F Humidity:    50% to 70% Favorite Foods: Anything except cucumbers and butternut squash Dairy Cow Isopods: An Overview Dairy cows are also are famously known by their scientific name, Porcellio Laevis. This easy-to-care isopod community is suitable for beginners and experienced pet lovers alike.  They are widely known for their cleaning capabilities. They are among the best clean-up crews on vivariums and terrariums. They can quickly and effectively break down organic matter and nourish the soil well. The ability to break down organic matter makes these isopods the perfect companion pets for many other organisms. These isopods can develop a symbiotic relationship between almost all other forms of living things. Dairy Cow Isopods: Basic Care Beginners in isopod care can use the following pointers to provide adequate primary care for Dairy Cow isopods. Dairy Cows are relatively active isopods. So, they need to have a reasonably spacious enclosure to live. They are relatively large. Despite the size, it is straightforward to be taken care of, even by the beginners The enclosure of Dairy Cow isopods has to have high humidity. But it is essential not to make the enclosure extremely wet. The Dairy Cow isopod enclosure should always have a dry side. This enables the isopods to manage their heat requirement properly. Dairy Cow isopods are prolific breeders. So, whenever they hit the breeding phase, sufficient food and other requirements have to be provided by the caregiver. If the owner plans to develop the isopod collection into a community, they must introduce male and female Dairy Cow isopods in the enclosure. During the breeding phase, protein is essential for Dairy Cows. The larvae can die off quickly if not supplemented with enough protein. So, enough protein supplements should be kept handy always by the owner. Feeding Being highly active and aggressive, the feeding habits and diet of these pods have to be given immense attention. They have a high appetite. Due to their high appetite, experts suggest not putting them in enclosures with smaller species.  The most common foods that Dairy Cows prefer to eat are decaying wood, leaf litter, etc. They also have a particular affinity towards vegetables like sweet potatoes. Some other vegetables that these isopods prefer to eat are as follows. Mushrooms Green beans Peas Hemp stalks Carrots Potatoes  Protein Protein is extremely crucial for the overall health and reproductive capabilities of Dairy Cows. The best protein sources for these isopods are as follows. Shrimp pellets Shrimp shells Shrimp meal Dried crickets Dried minnows, etc. Calcium Calcium is another essential element that must be added to the Dairy Cow diet. Calcium helps with the reproductive health, growth rate, and general well-being of the isopods. Some of the suitable calcium sources are as follows. Powdered eggshells   Cuttlebone   Organic kefir   Sea coral  Leaf Litter Leaf litter should be available in abundance in a daiy cow enclosure. The owner must pay special attention to providing pesticide-free leaves to the isopods. The best leaves for the Dairy Cow isopod diet are as follows. Oak leaves   Magnolia leaves   Cannabis leaves   Hemp leaves, etc. Dairy Cow Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour An adult Dairy Cow achieves a total body length of 2.3 centimeters. Despite the bigger size, they are highly active and fast. The body of the Dairy Cow isopods features a combination of black and white color. The pattern from black and white reminds the spectators of cows, which is why these isopods got their famous name. Like any other isopod, these isopods also have a segmented body. As mentioned before, they are fast-moving and, thus, require a good deal of space inside the enclosure to move around. Regarding behavior, Dairy Cows maintain an active and somewhat aggressive temperament. As they have a relatively bigger size in the isopod world, they physically push away other smaller isopods.  Experts also report that these isopods tend to push around even their juveniles. The bullying nature is mainly for getting more nutrients from others. Due to this bullying nature, Dairy Cow isopods are not considered great companion pets. Dairy Cow Isopods: Habitat Dairy Cows are much bigger than most other isopods. They are also highly mobile. Due to these reasons, they should have a reasonably big enclosure to inhabit.   Pet owners can use a reasonable-sized Tupperware container to accommodate the Dairy Cow isopods. Particular attention should be given to punch holes in the sides of the container for proper airflow.   While punching ventilation holes for the isopod enclosure, it is essential to ensure they are at unreachable heights for the isopods. Being highly active, Dairy Cow isopods can go out through the vent holes at accessible heights.   A good terrarium setup would be the right choice for culturing Dairy Cow isopods. Such setups have nutritious substrate surfaces, lots of leaf litter for consumption, and ample space to move around. Dairy Cow Isopods: Substrate Mix The substrate mix inside a Dairy Cow enclosure should have qualities like high moisture retention capacity, good aeration, and proper drainage. A substrate mix of orchid bark and sphagnum moss will suit the pods. These elements can keep the humidity inside the enclosure high always. Earthworm castings are a great addition to the substrate mix for growing Dairy Cow isopods. The critical thing to address while laying the substrate mix is that a part of the enclosure should always be dry. So, after laying the substrate mix, it is advisable to layer the designated dry area with soft bedding like peat moss or regular soil. It is also recommended to add several wood barks in the dry area for the isopods to hide. The damp area of the enclosure should only need a small layer of leaf litter above the substrate mix. While using leaf litter, boil the leaves to get them adequately sterilized.

I have comprehensive information. Here's the rewritten product description: White Shark Isopods (Cubaris sp. 'White Shark') are a delightful dwarf Cubaris species that pack incredible visual appeal into a tiny package. Originating from Thailand, these miniature isopods display a striking tricolour pattern - orange, white, and dark blue-black sections arranged in sequential bands that make them genuinely eye-catching despite their diminutive size. Don't let the intimidating name fool you - at just 8mm fully grown, these are among the smallest Cubaris species available. What they lack in size, they more than make up for in personality, colouration, and breeding potential. Once established, White Sharks are surprisingly prolific and make an excellent gateway species for keepers wanting to move from beginner isopods into the world of Cubaris. Their distinctive appearance has earned them cult status in the hobby. The combination of a bright orange "face," white midsection, and dark rear creates a pattern unlike almost any other isopod. Some individuals show variations where the black appears more navy blue, or the orange leans towards red - genetic variation that adds interest to any colony. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'White Shark' Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium Size: Up to 8mm (dwarf species) Temperature: 24-28°C Humidity: 60-80% Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview White Shark Isopods belong to the Cubaris genus - a group renowned for attractive colouration, the characteristic "duck face" appearance, and the ability to roll into a perfect ball when threatened. While many Cubaris species carry reputations for being difficult and expensive, White Sharks are refreshingly accessible. They're one of the few Cubaris that combine stunning looks with genuinely beginner-friendly care. Their small size is the first thing keepers notice. Fully grown adults reach approximately 8mm (around 1/4 inch), making them true dwarf isopods. This compact size makes them perfect for smaller terrariums where larger species would overwhelm the space. Despite being tiny, established colonies are surprisingly visible - particularly at feeding time when they'll swarm a piece of carrot or vegetable. White Sharks originate from tropical Thailand, where they inhabit humid environments rich in decomposing organic matter. They've adapted to life in consistently moist conditions with high lime content in the soil - important considerations when setting up their enclosure. One of their best qualities is their breeding potential. Unlike some Cubaris species that are notoriously slow or difficult to breed, White Sharks reproduce readily once established and comfortable. A small starter colony can multiply significantly within 2-3 months under proper care. Basic Care White Shark Isopods require typical Cubaris care: warm temperatures, high humidity, and attention to environmental stability. They're more forgiving than premium Cubaris species like Rubber Duckies but still need proper conditions to thrive. Temperature should be maintained between 24-28°C (75-80°F). Consistent warmth encourages activity and breeding. Avoid temperature fluctuations where possible. Humidity is crucial - aim for 60-80%. The enclosure should be kept predominantly moist (approximately 80% damp, 20% drier), but never waterlogged. Too much dampness causes moulting issues and sudden die-offs, a common problem with Cubaris species. The key is maintaining humidity without creating soggy conditions. Unlike some Cubaris that prefer very low ventilation, White Sharks benefit from moderate airflow. Small ventilation holes help prevent stagnation and mould while maintaining necessary humidity levels. Too little ventilation causes problems; too much drops humidity too quickly. Finding the balance is important. Provide a deep substrate (7-10cm / 3-4 inches) to allow for their natural burrowing behaviour. White Sharks are enthusiastic burrowers and spend much of their time beneath the surface, particularly when preparing to moult or breed. A smaller enclosure is actually preferable when starting with a new colony. Being dwarf isopods, if they're too spread out in a large space, they'll struggle to find each other for breeding. A 6-8 quart container is ideal for a starter culture of 10-20 individuals. Feeding White Shark Isopods are detritivores with hearty appetites relative to their tiny size. They require a high-nutrition diet to support their active metabolism and breeding. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak is excellent) Rotting white wood pieces Sphagnum moss Lichens and forest moss Supplementary foods (offered regularly, at least twice weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, cucumber, squash Fish food/flakes Dried shrimp, minnows, or insects (protein source) Commercial isopod foods Calcium and protein supplementation is particularly important for this species. White Sharks are notably protein-hungry compared to some isopods. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Limestone powder or pieces Crushed oyster shell Eggshells Adding limestone to the enclosure mimics their natural Thai habitat, where they live in high lime-content soils. A useful observation tip: placing a small piece of carrot in the enclosure will quickly become "caked" with White Sharks feeding - adults and babies alike. This is an excellent way to observe your colony without disturbing them by digging through the substrate. Feed protein sources on the drier side of the enclosure, as they spoil quickly in humid conditions and can attract pests. Appearance and Behaviour White Shark Isopods are instantly recognisable for their striking tricolour pattern. From front to back, they display sequential bands of colour: a bright orange "face" and head region, a white midsection, and a dark blue-black rear section. This creates a visually striking contrast that's genuinely impressive despite their tiny size. Colour intensity and exact patterning varies between individuals due to natural genetic variation. Some specimens show more navy blue than black, others lean towards red-orange rather than pure orange. This variation adds visual interest to colonies. Adults reach approximately 8mm in length - true dwarf status among isopods. Their bodies show the characteristic rounded, segmented shape of Cubaris species with the adorable "duck face" that makes the genus so popular. Behaviourally, White Sharks are shy and reclusive, spending much of their time burrowed in the substrate. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most of their foraging at night, though established colonies will venture out during the day - particularly when food is available. Like all Cubaris, they can roll into a tight, complete ball (conglobation) when threatened. When disturbed, they tend to scatter quickly and seek hiding spots rather than curling up immediately. They're social creatures that do well in groups. High-density colonies are actually more active and visible than sparse ones, as the isopods feel more secure with others around. Habitat White Shark Isopods originate from tropical Thailand and require conditions that replicate their humid, warm native environment. For housing, use a plastic container with ventilation or a glass terrarium. Smaller containers (6-8 quart) are actually preferable for starter cultures - dwarf isopods in large spaces take longer to find each other and begin breeding. Temperature: Maintain 24-28°C consistently. Warmth encourages activity and reproduction. Humidity: Aim for 60-80%, with approximately 80% of the enclosure kept moist and 20% drier. High humidity is essential, but avoid waterlogged conditions. Ventilation: Moderate. Small ventilation holes help prevent stagnation and mould while maintaining humidity. A secure lid with mesh-covered vents works well. Substrate depth: Provide 7-10cm (3-4 inches) minimum to allow comfortable burrowing. White Sharks are enthusiastic burrowers and spend considerable time beneath the surface. Hiding spots: Unlike some Cubaris that congregate under cork bark, White Sharks typically prefer burrowing in the substrate itself. Piles of leaf litter and decaying wood provide cover without requiring cork bark (though it can be included if desired). Avoid direct sunlight and extreme temperature fluctuations. Substrate Mix Creating the right substrate is essential for White Shark success. The mix provides food, maintains humidity, allows burrowing, and should include calcium-rich elements to mimic their natural habitat. Option 1 - ABG Mix Base: ABG (Atlanta Botanical Garden) mix provides an excellent foundation with good drainage, water retention, nutrient retention, and compaction resistance. Standard ABG mix components: Sphagnum moss - 1 part Tree fern fibre - 2 parts Orchid bark - 2 parts Peat moss - 1 part Charcoal - 1 part Layer on top: oak leaf litter, cottonwood bark, live moss Option 2 - Alternative Mix: Coconut humus/coir Mixed soil Wooden bark pieces Orchid moss Sphagnum moss Essential additions to either mix: Limestone powder (mimics their high-lime Thai habitat) Cuttlefish bone pieces Rotting white wood Generous leaf litter covering Create a thick substrate base (7-10cm minimum) to support their burrowing behaviour. The substrate should feel damp when squeezed but not dripping wet. Adding decaying wood pieces, cork bark, and piles of leaf litter helps with excess moisture control and provides food sources. Breeding White Shark Isopods are among the more prolific Cubaris species once established. They breed readily under proper conditions, making them an excellent choice for keepers wanting to build a colony. New colonies typically need about a month to acclimate to their environment before breeding begins. During this settling-in period, focus on maintaining stable conditions and don't expect immediate reproduction. Once established, White Sharks can multiply quickly. A starter colony of 10-12 individuals can grow significantly within 2-3 months under optimal care. They're described as "fairly prolific on a regular basis" once conditions are right. For optimal breeding success, maintain temperatures at the higher end of their range (26-28°C), keep humidity at 60-80%, provide deep substrate for burrowing, ensure constant calcium availability, and offer regular protein supplementation. Females carry fertilised eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) until they hatch. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without separation, though some keepers prefer to move juveniles to prevent any risk of predation in crowded conditions. Monitor colony size as breeding progresses. White Sharks reproduce well, and populations can grow quickly. Be prepared to upgrade enclosure size or split colonies as numbers increase. White Shark Isopods as Bioactive Cleanup Crew White Shark Isopods make excellent additions to bioactive terrariums, efficiently processing organic waste despite their small size. Their diminutive stature actually makes them well-suited to smaller terrariums where larger isopod species would be overwhelming. As detritivores, they eagerly consume leaf litter, decaying wood, leftover food, faecal matter, and decomposing plant material. This natural cleanup behaviour helps maintain enclosure hygiene and reduces mould risk. Their high breeding rate means colonies can sustain themselves as a cleanup crew while potentially providing a calcium-rich food source for small terrarium inhabitants that can safely consume them. For bioactive use, ensure the enclosure provides appropriate humidity and temperature for White Sharks while meeting the needs of other inhabitants. Their preference for burrowing means they'll spend much time in the substrate, aerating it while processing organic matter.

This is Cubaris sp. "Panda King" - one of the most popular Cubaris species with their distinctive black and white colouration. The current description mentions coco coir in the substrate section which I'll remove. At 60% off with prices starting at £10 for 10, these are exceptionally good value for a Cubaris species. I'll write a comprehensive description in your format. Cubaris sp. "Panda King" is one of the most recognisable and popular Cubaris species in the hobby, named for their striking black and white colouration reminiscent of giant pandas. Originating from limestone caves in Vietnam, they've become a gateway species for many keepers entering the world of Cubaris isopods. Their attractive appearance, reasonable care requirements, and—at current pricing—exceptional value make them an obvious choice for anyone wanting to keep Cubaris without the steep costs and demanding husbandry of rarer species. Once established, they breed prolifically, making colony-building genuinely achievable. A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam (limestone caves, central and northern regions) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Panda King" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1-1.5 cm Rarity: Low to Medium (widely available) Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-27°C (70-80°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying vegetation, vegetables, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells Cubaris sp. Panda King: Introduction Panda King isopods originate from limestone caves and karst formations in central and northern Vietnam. These environments are characterised by high humidity, darkness, consistent temperatures, and calcium-rich substrates—conditions that directly inform their captive care requirements. The "Panda" name is apt. Their black and white patterning genuinely evokes the appearance of giant pandas, making them immediately recognisable even to people unfamiliar with isopods. This visual appeal, combined with relatively straightforward care compared to more demanding Cubaris species, has made them one of the most popular introductions to the genus. What distinguishes Panda Kings from many premium Cubaris is their willingness to breed once established. While some Cubaris species are notoriously slow and difficult to breed, Panda Kings produce offspring reliably under appropriate conditions. This means colonies actually grow rather than stagnating or declining—a genuine advantage for keepers wanting to build populations rather than simply maintain small groups indefinitely. At current sale pricing (60% off), they represent exceptional value. The opportunity to acquire Cubaris with genuine visual appeal at these prices makes them accessible to keepers who might otherwise be priced out of the genus entirely. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1-1.5 cm Distinctive black and white patterned exoskeleton The patterning genuinely resembles panda colouration—not a stretch Relatively soft exoskeleton compared to some species Capable of conglobation (rolling into a defensive ball) Compact, rounded body shape typical of Cubaris Pattern varies slightly between individuals but maintains the panda aesthetic Their size is modest—they're not large isopods—but their colouration makes them visually striking despite their compact dimensions. Behaviour Panda King isopods display typical Cubaris behaviours with characteristics that make them rewarding to keep. Activity patterns: Nocturnal. They're most active in darkness and prefer dim conditions. During the day, expect them to remain hidden in substrate or under cover. Evening and night hours bring increased activity. Temperament: Shy initially but become bolder once established. New colonies may hide extensively; settled colonies venture out more confidently. Patience during the establishment phase pays off. Conglobation: They roll into defensive balls when disturbed—classic isopod behaviour. This response is reliable. Burrowing: Active burrowers that dig into substrate seeking moisture and security. Deep substrate accommodates this natural behaviour and reduces stress. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They cluster together comfortably, forming loose colonies. Offspring stay near mothers initially, creating family groupings within the colony. Colony dynamics: Once established and comfortable, they breed actively. Colonies can grow substantially over time—a significant advantage over slow-breeding Cubaris species. Diet Panda King isopods are not fussy eaters and accept a wide variety of foods. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying plant matter Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato, squash Occasional fruits Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Commercial isopod foods Calcium requirements: Higher than many species—their limestone cave origins mean they're adapted to calcium-rich environments. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, crushed eggshells, or calcium powder generously. Inadequate calcium causes moulting problems and poor colony health. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports growth and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, or earthworm castings provide appropriate protein sources. Feeding approach: Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood as baseline food. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources regularly. They're good eaters but avoid overfeeding fresh foods—excess can attract pests. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Breeding Panda Kings are among the more reliable Cubaris breeders—a significant advantage. Breeding rate: Good once established. They're described as breeding "rapidly" once acclimated, which is accurate compared to many Cubaris species. Don't expect immediate results with new colonies, but established groups produce offspring consistently. Breeding behaviour: Males transfer sperm to females during mating. Females carry developing eggs, and juveniles emerge after approximately six weeks. Young stay close to mothers initially, forming family clusters within the colony. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-80%) Stable warm temperatures (22-26°C ideal) Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance during establishment Colony establishment: New colonies need time to acclimate before breeding begins. Keep them in appropriate conditions, minimise disturbance, and allow them to settle. Once comfortable, breeding follows naturally. Tips for success: Patience during establishment is essential. Resist the urge to constantly check on them or disturb the enclosure. Stable, undisturbed conditions encourage faster acclimation and breeding onset. Starting with larger groups (20+) provides better genetic diversity and faster colony establishment. Cubaris sp. Panda King: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid limestone cave environment. Enclosure: A container with limited ventilation to maintain humidity. Plastic containers with minimal ventilation holes work well for culturing; glass enclosures allow viewing but require careful humidity management. Start with a smaller container during acclimation, then transfer to larger enclosures as colonies grow. Secure lids prevent escapes and maintain humidity levels. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—aim for 10cm (4 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout Crushed limestone generously incorporated (essential given their limestone cave origins) Hardwood leaf litter layered on top (magnolia leaves are excellent) Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for moisture retention The limestone/calcium content is particularly important. Their natural habitat is calcium-rich; replicate this in the substrate. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-80%: Maintain consistently moist substrate Provide moisture gradient (some areas slightly drier, some damper) Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches retain moisture between misting Limited ventilation preserves humidity Avoid waterlogging—moist, not wet. Excess standing water causes problems. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Restrict airflow to maintain humidity. Small ventilation holes rather than mesh lids. Their cave origins mean they're adapted to still, humid air—excessive ventilation drops humidity to harmful levels. Lighting: They strongly prefer darkness. Keep enclosures in dark or dimly lit locations. Bright light causes stress and inhibits natural behaviour. If displaying them, position enclosures away from direct light. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark sections Dried oak leaves Magnolia leaves (excellent for moisture retention and shelter) Sphagnum moss patches Limestone pieces (functional and aesthetic) Multiple hiding options throughout the enclosure reduce stress and encourage natural behaviour. Temperature: 21-27°C (70-80°F). Room temperature in heated UK homes typically works. Avoid cold locations and temperature extremes. Consistent warmth supports activity and breeding. Springtails: Highly recommended. High-humidity environments can develop mould; springtails consume mould and maintain enclosure hygiene. They coexist peacefully with Panda Kings and benefit overall enclosure health. Bioactive Use Panda King isopods can function in bioactive setups meeting their requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko enclosures Snail terrariums (compatible humidity requirements) Advantages: Attractive appearance adds visual interest Reliable breeding means populations recover and grow Effective decomposers Soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional feeders for small animals Peaceful coexistence with other cleanup crew Considerations: Require consistently high humidity Soft exoskeletons mean some animals may eat them (advantage or disadvantage depending on intent) Not suitable for arid setups Need establishment time before thriving As feeders: Their relatively soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional feeders for poison dart frogs and other small insectivores. However, at their price point (even discounted), dedicated feeder colonies of cheaper species may be more economical for regular feeding purposes. Tank Mates Panda Kings coexist well with appropriate tank mates. Compatible: Springtails (highly recommended—mutual benefits) Snails (similar humidity requirements) Other humidity-loving isopods (in large enclosures with distinct microhabitats) Dart frogs (though predation will occur) Small tropical geckos Considerations: Tank mates should share humidity requirements Predatory animals will eat them—factor this into stocking decisions Mixing isopod species requires adequate space and resources to prevent competition Suitability Panda King isopods suit a wide range of keepers. Excellent choice for: First-time Cubaris keepers Those wanting attractive isopods at accessible prices Keepers building breeding colonies Humid bioactive setups Anyone wanting Cubaris without premium pricing Beginners with some basic isopod experience Not ideal for: Complete beginners with zero isopod experience (start with P. scaber) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers unable to maintain consistent humidity Those wanting immediate results (establishment takes time) Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're considered beginner-friendly within the Cubaris genus—not as forgiving as hardy Porcellio species, but significantly more accessible than demanding premium Cubaris. Keepers who can maintain stable humidity and resist over-handling will succeed. Value assessment: At current sale pricing (60% off, starting at £10 for 10), they represent outstanding value. This pricing makes Cubaris keeping accessible to hobbyists who might otherwise never try the genus. The combination of attractive appearance, reasonable care requirements, and reliable breeding makes them genuinely recommendable rather than just "cheap." Expectations: Expect shy behaviour initially that improves as colonies establish. Expect attractive isopods that reward patient, hands-off husbandry with steady population growth. Don't expect instant breeding or tolerance of poor conditions. With appropriate care, Panda Kings deliver on their reputation as an excellent introduction to Cubaris keeping.

Isopod Mystery Box: Curated Surprises for Every Hobbyist Beautiful healthy isopods delivered to your door — with the excitement of not knowing exactly which species you’ll discover until you open the box. PostPods mystery boxes contain carefully selected isopods from different species, chosen by experienced breeders to give you fantastic value while introducing you to these fascinating invertebrates. Whether you’re building your first bioactive terrarium or expanding an established collection, our mystery boxes deliver more pods for your money than buying individual species. What Makes Our Mystery Boxes Special Guaranteed fantastic value — retail worth exceeds what you spend Beautiful healthy pods from 3-8 different species per box Carefully wrapped with specialized packaging for live arrival Mix of common and interesting isopods you might not find elsewhere Fast delivery with live arrival guarantee Perfect for Every Experience Level New to isopods? Our boxes include beginner friendly pets that adapt to almost all terrains and accommodate basic care requirements. These low maintenance pets are excellent for those just starting their invertebrate journey. Experienced collector? Request more challenging species in your order note. We stock rare morphs and interesting isopods that recently gained popularity among dedicated hobbyists. What You Might Discover Isopods present worldwide with wide distribution geographically — from deserts to mountains, these small creatures have adapted to even the harshest conditions. Your mystery box could include: Dairy cow white pods with distinctive black and white patterns Colorful morphs that add visual interest to any setup Fast breeding species that establish colonies quickly Unique varieties from distinctive places around the world Size varies significantly between species — some remain relatively smaller while others can reach half a meter in specialized conditions. All our pods are generally small creatures perfect for terrarium life. How Our Mystery Boxes Work Each box contains one batch of carefully selected isopods, packed to survive the journey to your door. We accommodate special requests when possible — just leave a note about your preferences, existing collection, or intended use. Delivery takes approximately two weeks depending on your location and our current stock levels. Every shipment includes care guidance to help your tiny animals thrive in their new environment. Value That Makes Sense Mystery boxes offer a great value way to build your collection without the significant amount you’d spend buying individual species. Instead of researching each variety separately, let our breeders surprise you with a mix that represents fantastic value. Many hobbyists prefer mystery boxes because they: Discover species they wouldn’t normally choose Get more animals for less money Experience the excitement of unboxing surprises Build diverse colonies for breeding projects The PostPods Difference We understand that these are living animals, not just products. Each isopod is selected for health and vitality, ensuring you receive beautiful healthy isopods that will thrive and potentially breed in your care. Our breeders have spent ages perfecting packaging methods that accommodate the needs of different species during transport. From moisture control to temperature management, every detail helps your pods arrive ready to explore their new habitat. Ready to Start Your Collection? Whether you’re setting up your first terrarium or adding to an established collection, PostPods mystery boxes deliver the excitement of discovery with the confidence of quality. These fantastic invertebrates will interact with their environment, help process organic matter, and potentially provide you with breeding stock for future projects. Browse our mystery box selection and experience the surprise of not knowing which beautiful species will arrive at your door.

Rubber Ducky Isopods (Cubaris sp. 'Rubber Ducky') are the most iconic and sought-after isopods in the hobby. Discovered in 2017 in the limestone caves of Thailand, these charming creatures took the isopod world by storm and essentially created the "designer isopod" category. Their adorable yellow faces genuinely resemble tiny rubber ducks - a resemblance that sparked global fascination and transformed isopod keeping from a niche interest into a mainstream hobby. Native to dark, humid cave environments rich in calcium, Rubber Duckies have specific care requirements that set them apart from common isopod species. They reward patient, consistent care rather than constant tinkering, and while they're more challenging than beginner species, they're entirely manageable for dedicated keepers willing to meet their needs. These are the isopods that started it all. While many beautiful Cubaris species have since been discovered - Panda Kings, Amber Duckies, Lemon Blues - the original Rubber Ducky remains the gold standard and continues to captivate keepers worldwide. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (limestone caves) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Rubber Ducky' Difficulty Level: Medium to Advanced Size: Up to 1.5-2cm Lifespan: 3-5 years Temperature: 22-28°C (24-27°C optimal) Humidity: 70-85% Rarity: High (still sought-after despite increased availability) An Overview The Rubber Ducky Isopod's discovery in Thailand's limestone caves in 2017 marked a turning point for the isopod hobby. Before then, isopod keeping was largely focused on common species used as bioactive cleanup crews. The Rubber Ducky changed everything - here was an isopod so visually appealing, with such obvious personality, that people wanted to keep them purely as pets. Their name comes from their unmistakable appearance. When viewed from the front, their faces feature a bright yellow "beak" that genuinely resembles a rubber duck toy. Their bodies display attractive yellow and brown colouration with distinct painted tail sections. Each isopod varies slightly in pattern intensity and colour distribution. Taxonomically, Rubber Duckies remain formally undescribed - they're known only by their trade name and designated as Cubaris sp. (species undetermined). This is common in the hobby, where many stunning isopods from Southeast Asia await scientific description. Understanding their natural habitat is key to successful care. They originate from dark limestone caves with extremely high humidity, stable warm temperatures, and calcium-rich substrates. Replicating these conditions - particularly the high calcium availability and consistent moisture - is essential for their health and breeding success. While challenging compared to beginner species, Rubber Duckies are manageable for keepers who research their needs and maintain consistent conditions. They're slower-growing and slower-breeding than many species, requiring patience, but established colonies can breed year-round and produce 2-10 offspring per brood (with advanced keepers reporting broods of 10-20+). Colour Variants Several colour variants and related morphs exist within the Rubber Ducky lineage: Original/OG Rubber Ducky - The classic yellow-faced variety with brown body colouration. Blonde Rubber Ducky - Features lighter, more blonde-yellow face colouration that holds true through breeding. Pak Chong - A related variety with bold pink face colouration instead of yellow. Red Pak Chong - Displays red face colouration with slight red tones throughout the exoskeleton. If maintaining pure lineages matters to you, keep different varieties separate to avoid mixing genetics. Basic Care Rubber Ducky Isopods require more attention to environmental conditions than common species, but their needs are straightforward once understood. The key is consistency - they thrive with stable conditions rather than frequent adjustments. Temperature should be maintained between 22-28°C, with 24-27°C (75-80°F) being optimal. Consistent warmth encourages activity and breeding. Avoid temperature fluctuations. Humidity is critical - aim for 70-85%. Their native limestone caves are extremely humid, and they cannot tolerate dry conditions. However, the enclosure should be moist, not waterlogged. Create a humidity gradient with approximately two-thirds kept damp and one-third drier, allowing them to self-regulate. Ventilation is important despite the high humidity requirement. Stagnant air promotes mould and fungal issues. Provide moderate ventilation - enough for air exchange without rapidly dropping humidity. Small ventilation holes with some covered (to retain moisture) work well. Substrate depth should be generous - at least 15cm (6 inches) is recommended. Rubber Duckies are enthusiastic burrowers and spend significant time deep in the substrate, particularly before and after moulting. Deep substrate also helps maintain stable humidity and temperature. pH sensitivity - Rubber Duckies are reportedly sensitive to high acidity. Incorporating limestone into your substrate helps buffer pH and mimics their native cave environment. They're shy and secretive by nature. Once disturbed, they often conglobate (roll into a ball) and may remain that way for extended periods. Minimise disturbance - they do better when left largely alone to establish their own routines. Feeding Rubber Ducky Isopods are detritivores requiring a varied, nutrient-rich diet with particular emphasis on calcium and protein. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak, magnolia - pesticide-free is essential) Rotting white wood pieces Sphagnum moss and forest moss Lichens Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - cucumbers, sweet potatoes, carrots, courgette Protein sources - dried shrimp, fish flakes, dried minnows, crickets Commercial isopod foods Calcium supplementation is absolutely essential for this species. Their native limestone caves provided abundant calcium carbonate, which they use to build their exoskeletons. Colonies thrive when calcium is readily available. Provide multiple calcium sources: Limestone pieces or powder (mimics natural habitat - highly recommended) Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Crushed oyster shell Crushed coral Some keepers report that while colonies survive with just cuttlebone, they truly thrive when limestone is the primary calcium source. Protein is important for breeding success. Offer protein sources twice weekly - dried shrimp, fish flakes, or small dried insects work well. Feed small portions and remove uneaten fresh food promptly to prevent mould. These isopods eat less than larger species, so adjust quantities accordingly. Appearance and Behaviour The Rubber Ducky's appearance is what made them famous. Their faces feature a distinctive bright yellow "beak" and facial structure that genuinely resembles a miniature rubber duck toy. When viewed front-on, the resemblance is uncanny and utterly charming. Their bodies display yellow and brown colouration arranged in attractive patterns. The yellow upper body contrasts with darker brown patches, and their tails show distinct painted markings. Colouration varies between individuals, with some showing more intense yellow and others displaying deeper brown tones. Adults reach approximately 1.5-2cm in length. Their bodies are divided into seven segments, each with a pair of legs. Two legs are specialised for burrowing, allowing them to dig deep into substrate - up to six inches. Like all Cubaris, they have a hard exoskeleton that provides protection and requires regular moulting for growth. Calcium availability is crucial for healthy exoskeleton development. Two antennae on their heads serve as primary sensory organs, helping with navigation, chemical detection, and communication. Small projections called cerci on the antennae function as additional sensory organs. Behaviourally, Rubber Duckies are shy and secretive. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most foraging at night, though established colonies may venture out during the day. When disturbed, they readily conglobate into a tight ball and may remain rolled up for extended periods. They're non-aggressive and have calm temperaments. While initially wary, comfortable isopods can become surprisingly interactive - some keepers report their Rubber Duckies will sit in their hands for several minutes once trust is established. They don't typically attempt to escape when housed appropriately with sufficient food and humidity. Habitat Creating the right habitat is essential for Rubber Ducky success. Their natural limestone cave environment provides the template. Enclosure options: Plastic containers with ventilation - ideal for breeding colonies due to easy humidity control Glass terrariums - attractive for display but require careful ventilation management Minimum 10 gallons for 10-15 isopods, though they don't require large spaces Temperature: Maintain 22-28°C consistently. Warmth encourages activity and breeding. Humidity: 70-85%, with a gradient (approximately two-thirds damp, one-third drier). Mist with dechlorinated water as needed. Ventilation: Moderate - enough for air exchange without excessive humidity loss. Substrate depth: At least 15cm (6 inches) to allow deep burrowing. This is important for their moulting process and overall comfort. Lighting: Low or indirect. As cave-dwellers, they don't require bright light. Terrarium lighting can be used but shouldn't shine directly on the isopods. Water parameters: If maintaining standing water (e.g., for misting), pH should be 8.0-8.5 and hardness 10-15° DH. Hiding spots: Provide bark, cork, leaf litter, and moss. These shy isopods need secure retreats. Consider bioactive setups with live plants and springtails to create self-sustaining ecosystems. Springtails help control mould and maintain substrate health. Substrate Mix The substrate is crucial for Rubber Ducky Isopods - it provides food, maintains humidity, allows burrowing, and must supply adequate calcium to mimic their limestone cave habitat. Essential components: Decomposing wood mulch Sphagnum peat moss Coconut coir (for moisture retention) Limestone pieces or garden lime (calcium carbonate - essential) Rotting cork bark Natural leaf litter (pesticide-free oak, magnolia) Charcoal (helps with drainage and pH) Recommended ABG-style mix: Sphagnum moss - 1 part Tree fern fibre - 2 parts Orchid bark - 2 parts Peat moss - 1 part Charcoal - 1 part Add to the mix: Limestone powder/pieces throughout Crushed eggshells or cuttlebone Rotting white wood Generous leaf litter layer on top The limestone is particularly important. Rubber Duckies originate from calcium-rich limestone caves, and incorporating this mineral into the substrate has proven highly successful for many keepers. Garden lime (calcium carbonate) is an affordable, readily available option. Create depth of at least 15cm. Layer sphagnum moss over approximately one-third of the surface to create a humidity gradient. Some advanced keepers add red wiggler composting worms to increase microbial diversity in the substrate, with reported improvements in colony health and breeding success. Breeding Rubber Ducky Isopods are slower breeders than many species, but they reproduce reliably once established and comfortable. Acclimation period: New colonies typically need several months to fully acclimate before breeding begins. This can be a "painfully slow process" - patience is essential. Some keepers report waiting 6-7 months before seeing their first babies. Breeding age: Female Rubber Duckies can begin breeding at approximately three months old. Breeding frequency: Once established, they breed year-round with consistent conditions. Brood size: Typically 2-10 offspring per brood. Advanced keepers with optimised conditions report larger broods of 10-20+. Lifespan: 3-5 years with proper care, providing multiple breeding opportunities. For breeding success, maintain stable conditions with high humidity (70-85%), temperatures at 24-27°C, deep substrate for burrowing, abundant limestone/calcium, regular protein supplementation, and minimal disturbance. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) until hatching. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults. Rubber Duckies spend significant time fully submerged in the substrate before and after moulting. This burrowing behaviour is connected to breeding - deep substrate allows them to create secure chambers for reproduction. Don't be discouraged by slow initial progress. Once conditions are optimised and the colony establishes, breeding becomes more consistent.

The vibrant orange morph of the classic Powder isopod—hardy, prolific, and one of the most popular beginner species in the hobby. Powder Orange Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean, Southern Europe Scientific Name: Porcellionides pruinosus Difficulty Level: Very Easy Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Low Temperature: 18°C to 29°C Humidity: 50% to 70% (moderate) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells Powder Orange Isopods: An Overview The Powder Orange is one of the most recognisable and widely kept isopod morphs in the hobby. Derived from selective breeding of Porcellionides pruinosus, this colour morph displays warm orange tones that contrast beautifully against dark substrate and create an eye-catching display in any enclosure. P. pruinosus originates from the Mediterranean region but has become cosmopolitan through human activity. The scientific name translates roughly to "little pig covered in frost"—a reference to both the rounded body shape and the distinctive powdery texture of their exoskeleton. The Powder Orange morph was developed from the original Powder Blue through selective breeding for orange colouration. These are genuinely one of the easiest isopod species to keep. Their tolerance for a wide range of conditions, prolific breeding, and voracious appetites make them ideal for beginners while remaining useful for experienced keepers building bioactive setups. The combination of striking colour and bulletproof hardiness explains their enduring popularity. Currently on sale at £6 for 10 (down from £10), these represent exceptional value for such a vibrant, easy-to-keep species. Powder Orange Isopods: Appearance The defining feature is obviously the colour—warm orange tones ranging from pale peachy-tangerine to deeper, richer rust-orange depending on the individual and breeding line. The intensity can vary, with some specimens displaying vivid, almost glowing orange while others show softer, more muted tones. Like all P. pruinosus, they have the characteristic powdery or velvety texture to their exoskeleton that gives the "Powder" isopods their name. This matte, frosted appearance comes from microscopic texturing on the carapace. The powder actually serves a functional purpose, increasing hydrophobicity and helping with moisture management. Adults reach approximately 1-1.5cm in length, making them a small to medium-sized isopod. They have soft bodies compared to harder-shelled species like Armadillidium—they cannot roll into a ball when threatened and instead rely on their considerable speed to escape danger. Juveniles may appear slightly paler initially, with colour deepening as they mature through successive moults. Just before moulting, specimens often display a particularly pronounced powdery appearance. Powder Orange Isopods: Basic Care These are about as close to "bulletproof" as isopods get. Their adaptability to various conditions makes them extremely forgiving of beginner mistakes. Temperature: Room temperature works perfectly. They're comfortable anywhere from 18°C to 29°C, with around 21-25°C being ideal. They can tolerate temperature fluctuations that would stress more sensitive species. Humidity: Moderate humidity (50-70%) suits them well. They're more tolerant of drier conditions than many isopod species, provided they have access to a moist area. Create a humidity gradient with one corner kept damper than the rest, allowing isopods to self-regulate their moisture exposure. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation through small holes prevents stagnant conditions while maintaining humidity. They don't need aggressive airflow, but some air exchange helps prevent mould. Lighting: Low light preferred, though they're notably more diurnal (daytime active) than many isopod species. You'll see them active during daylight hours as well as at night. Powder Orange Isopods: Feeding P. pruinosus have appetites that seem disproportionate to their small size. This voracious feeding behaviour is exactly what makes them such effective bioactive cleaners. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel—pesticide-free) Decaying softwood Rotting bark Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, sweet potato, cucumber, spinach) Occasional fruit Fish flakes or pellets for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Meat scraps (sparingly) Commercial isopod diets Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton maintenance: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chips Crushed eggshells Calcium powder Feeding Caution: While they need plenty of food to support their fast metabolism and breeding, avoid overfeeding with fresh foods. Uneaten vegetables attract pests like fungus gnats and mites. Provide only what can be consumed within 24-48 hours and remove any uneaten fresh items promptly. Powder Orange Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive substrate with good structure works well. They're adaptable and not fussy about exact composition. A suitable mix might include: Coconut coir or peat moss as a moisture-retentive base Organic topsoil mixed through Sphagnum moss (especially in the moist area) Decaying softwood pieces Generous leaf litter as a top layer Optional: earthworm castings for additional nutrition Substrate depth of around 5-7cm is adequate. While P. pruinosus are primarily surface-active and don't burrow extensively, some depth allows for shelter and moisture regulation. Powder Orange Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup suits this adaptable species. Nothing elaborate is required to keep them thriving. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container works well for a starter colony of 10. Larger purchases (50-100) will need bigger enclosures or can be divided across multiple containers. Moisture Gradient: Create distinct moisture zones. Keep one area with damp sphagnum moss while the remainder stays drier. This is important—they need access to moisture but shouldn't be kept uniformly wet. Hides: Cork bark pieces, wood, and leaf litter provide shelter. While Powder Oranges are more visible than many species, they still appreciate hiding spots. Ventilation: Small holes on alternating sides of the container provide adequate airflow without excessive drying. Security: These are fast isopods. Ensure lids are secure with no gaps—they will find and exploit escape routes that slower species would ignore. Cohabitation: Powder Oranges live well alongside springtails, which help control mould and process fine debris. Some keepers also house them with terrestrial snails in larger, humid setups. Powder Orange Isopods: Breeding P. pruinosus are famous for prolific breeding. Provide basic care and they'll multiply without any special encouragement. Breeding Process: Males transfer a spermatophore to females during mating Females store sperm and fertilise eggs internally Eggs develop in the female's marsupium (brood pouch)—visible as a whitish area between the legs Fully-formed juveniles emerge from the marsupium Juveniles moult through several stages before reaching adulthood What to Expect: Rapid reproduction once established Large brood sizes Sub-adults beginning to breed before reaching full size Potentially explosive population growth in good conditions Lifespan of 1-2 years, though captive specimens may live longer with consistent care Colony growth can be remarkably fast. A starter culture of 10 can multiply many times over within months under good conditions. This prolific nature is one reason they're so popular as cleanup crews—they quickly establish self-sustaining populations that maintain themselves indefinitely. Powder Orange Isopods: Behaviour These are notably active, energetic isopods with distinctive behavioural traits. Typical Behaviours: Extremely fast—among the quickest isopods commonly kept More diurnal than many species, active during daylight as well as at night Surface-dwelling, spending most time in upper substrate layers Voracious feeding, often descending on food in groups Cannot roll into a ball—flee rapidly when disturbed Social creatures that thrive in groups Non-aggressive toward each other and enclosure inhabitants Their combination of daytime activity and surface-dwelling habits means you'll see plenty of them. Watching a group of bright orange isopods moving across dark substrate is genuinely engaging—they're more entertaining to observe than many "fancier" species that spend most of their time hidden. Handling Note: While non-aggressive and harmless, their soft bodies and speed make them unsuitable for regular handling. They're best observed rather than picked up. Young children should be supervised, as the isopods can be accidentally injured. Powder Orange Isopods: Bioactive Use Powder Oranges are among the most popular and effective bioactive cleanup crew isopods available. Excellent for: Tropical and humid bioactive setups Temperate enclosures with moderate humidity Reptile and amphibian vivariums Display terrariums Any setup where rapid waste processing is desired Why they excel as cleanup crews: Voracious appetites efficiently process waste, decaying matter, mould, and uneaten food Prolific breeding maintains population without intervention Surface-active nature means they encounter and process waste quickly Bright colour adds visual interest to the enclosure Soft bodies are palatable if pets occasionally snack on them Adaptable to various enclosure conditions Their soft exoskeletons make them suitable as occasional snacks for insectivorous pets like frogs and small lizards. The rapid reproduction compensates for any predation, and in smaller enclosures, some predation actually helps control population numbers. Powder Orange Isopods: Comparing Powder Morphs The Powder Orange is one of numerous colour morphs within the P. pruinosus species. All share identical care requirements. Other P. pruinosus morphs we stock: Oreo Crumble – striking black and white piebald pattern Rainbow Mix – multiple colour morphs combined All P. pruinosus morphs can interbreed. If you want to maintain pure orange colouration, keep them separate from other morphs. If you don't mind colour mixing, they can be combined for a more varied display. Who Are These Isopods For? Powder Orange Isopods suit: Complete beginners wanting a forgiving first species Keepers seeking effective bioactive cleanup crews Anyone wanting fast population growth Those who appreciate visible, colourful isopods Bioactive enthusiasts on a budget Children interested in keeping isopods (with handling supervision) They might not suit: Those wanting large, impressive display specimens Keepers preferring calm, slow-moving species Anyone seeking rare or unusual species The combination of vibrant colour, easy care, and prolific breeding makes Powder Oranges an excellent choice for almost any keeper. There's a reason they remain one of the most popular isopods in the hobby despite all the fancier options available. What's Included Each order contains healthy Powder Orange specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony immediate breeding potential. Bulk options (50, 100) are available for those establishing larger bioactive setups or wanting rapid population establishment.

I now have comprehensive information. Here's the rewritten product description: Magic Potion Isopods (Armadillidium vulgare 'Magic Potion') are one of the most visually enchanting morphs in the hobby. Their pale, almost translucent bodies are speckled with vibrant yellow and black spots, creating a pattern reminiscent of something brewed in a cauldron - hence the name. What makes this morph particularly interesting is its origin. Magic Potion isopods are the result of the "dalmatian gene" being expressed in Armadillidium vulgare - the common pill bug or roly-poly that many people grew up finding in their gardens. The dalmatian gene affects dark pigment distribution, breaking it into scattered spots, while the species' natural yellow markings remain unaffected. The result is a striking combination of white, yellow, and black that looks nothing like their humble wild-type cousins. Armadillidium vulgare is one of the hardiest and most adaptable isopod species available, and this extends to the Magic Potion morph. They're genuinely beginner-friendly, tolerant of a wide range of conditions, and - once established - prolific breeders. A Glimpse Origin: Captive bred morph (Japanese and American lines available) Scientific Name: Armadillidium vulgare 'Magic Potion' Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 18-21mm Temperature: 15-27°C (21-24°C optimal) Humidity: 50-70% Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview Magic Potion isopods have become a staple in the hobby for good reason. They combine the bulletproof hardiness of the common pill bug with genuinely impressive aesthetics. No two individuals look exactly alike - the spotting pattern varies, with some showing more yellow, others more black, and the distribution always unique. There are two main lines available: Japanese and American. The Japanese line is known for breeding readily and producing large broods, making them excellent for keepers who want to build numbers quickly. The American line tends to produce slightly larger adults with more pronounced spotting, but can be slower to establish and breed. Both lines are beautiful; the choice comes down to whether you prioritise breeding speed or maximum size. These isopods are noticeably bold and active compared to many species. Once comfortable in their environment, they'll be out exploring rather than hiding constantly. This makes them excellent display animals and highly visible members of any bioactive setup. As true pill bugs, Magic Potions can roll into a complete, gapless ball when threatened - a satisfying defensive behaviour that never gets old to watch. Basic Care Magic Potion isopods are among the easiest species to keep, inheriting the adaptability of their common pill bug ancestors. They're forgiving of beginner mistakes and tolerant of a wide range of conditions. Unlike some tropical Cubaris species that demand precise humidity, Magic Potions can handle anything from semi-arid to moderately humid setups. A moisture gradient is ideal - roughly one-quarter to one-third of the enclosure kept damp (using sphagnum moss) while the rest stays drier. They actually prefer slightly drier conditions than many tropical species. Good ventilation is important for this species. Add ventilation holes to your enclosure to keep air moving and prevent stagnant, overly humid conditions that can lead to moulting problems. Temperature-wise, they're remarkably adaptable. They'll tolerate anything from 15-27°C, though 21-24°C is optimal for activity and breeding. At cooler temperatures they may become less active or enter a dormant period, but this won't harm them. A shoebox-sized container works well for a starter culture. Provide cork bark for hiding spots - they love clustering underneath it and will also snack on it over time. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight, which can cause temperature spikes. Feeding Magic Potion isopods are detritivores with a broad, unfussy diet. They'll consume decaying organic matter, leaf litter, rotting wood, and supplementary foods without complaint. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech) - the foundation of their diet Rotting wood and cork bark Sphagnum moss Lichens (if available - they particularly enjoy these) Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, sweet potato, pumpkin Fruits - apple, banana (sparingly) Protein sources - fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp Root vegetables like yams are reportedly a favourite Calcium supplementation is essential. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Crushed oyster shell Magic Potion isopods are notably bold feeders and will actively seek out food rather than waiting for it to come to them. Be mindful not to overfeed. In humid conditions, uneaten food can spoil and encourage mould growth, disrupting the enclosure balance. Offer only what can be consumed within 24 hours and remove leftovers promptly. Interestingly, like many isopods, they consume their own moults - this is normal behaviour and helps them recycle calcium. Appearance and Behaviour The defining feature of Magic Potion isopods is their extraordinary colouration. A pale, milky white to translucent base is scattered with yellow and black spots and patches. The pattern is unique to each individual, ranging from heavily spotted to more lightly marked specimens. Juveniles start almost pure white. As they mature through their moults, the characteristic yellow and black spotting develops and becomes more pronounced. Adult colouration can vary - some individuals show more yellow, others more black, and the intensity of markings differs between specimens. Adults reach approximately 18-21mm in length (the American line tends to be slightly larger than Japanese). They have the characteristic rounded, pill-shaped body of Armadillidium with a smooth, calcified exoskeleton. Behaviourally, these are active, bold isopods. Unlike shy species that hide constantly, established Magic Potions will be out exploring during the day and readily visible on the surface. They're social animals that enjoy clustering together, particularly under cork bark and in favourite hiding spots. Their conglobation (rolling into a ball) is particularly complete - unlike some Armadillidium species that leave gaps, Magic Potions roll into a perfectly sealed sphere with no openings. They're peaceful and social, forming loose social structures with other isopods and never showing aggression toward tank mates. Habitat A plastic storage container (6-8 quart) or glass terrarium (5-10 gallons) works well for a starter colony. These adaptable isopods don't have demanding habitat requirements. Ventilation is important - Magic Potions prefer good airflow and don't do well in stagnant, overly humid enclosures. Add ventilation holes on the sides of containers to keep air moving. This also helps prevent mould issues. Temperature can range from 15-27°C, with 21-24°C being optimal. They're tolerant of household temperature fluctuations and don't require supplemental heating in most situations. At cooler temperatures (below 15°C) they may enter dormancy but will resume normal activity when warmed. Humidity should be moderate, around 50-70%. Maintain a moisture gradient with one section kept damp (sphagnum moss works well) while the rest stays drier. Avoid uniformly wet conditions - these isopods prefer it on the drier side compared to tropical species. Hiding spots are essential. Cork bark is ideal - they love clustering underneath it, and it doubles as a long-term food source. Leaf litter scattered across the surface provides additional cover. Avoid direct sunlight, which can cause rapid temperature and humidity fluctuations. Substrate Mix A good substrate provides food, maintains appropriate moisture levels, and supports the decomposition processes these detritivores rely on. Base substrate options: Coconut coir Peat moss Pesticide-free topsoil ABG mix or similar bioactive substrate Mix in: Rotting wood pieces Decaying hardwood leaves Earthworm castings Orchid bark Charcoal (aids drainage) Layer on top: Generous covering of leaf litter (essential food source) Patches of sphagnum moss (on the moist side only) Cork bark pieces for hides Lichens (if available) Substrate depth should be 5-7cm to allow for burrowing behaviour. These isopods enjoy digging and will burrow into the substrate, helping to aerate it. Maintain a moisture gradient within the substrate - the area under sphagnum moss should stay damp while other areas remain drier. The substrate should never be waterlogged. Breeding Magic Potion isopods breed readily once established, though breeding characteristics differ between the Japanese and American lines. Japanese line: Known for breeding prolifically with large broods. Colonies grow quickly and recover well when individuals are removed. This is the better choice if you want to build numbers rapidly. American line: Tends to be slower to establish and breed, with some sources noting they can take considerably longer to reach maturity. However, they typically produce larger adults with more pronounced spotting. This line also appears to produce a higher ratio of males, which may contribute to slower colony growth. For optimal breeding, provide stable conditions with moderate humidity (50-70%), temperatures around 21-24°C, abundant food, and plenty of hiding spots. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch and give birth to live young. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without separation. Juveniles go through seven instar stages before reaching adulthood. Once established and breeding, Magic Potion colonies can become quite prolific - particularly the Japanese line. Be prepared to potentially split colonies or upgrade enclosures as numbers grow. Average lifespan is 2-3 years under good conditions.

Zebra Isopods (Armadillidium maculatum) are one of the most popular and recognisable isopods in the hobby. With their striking black and white striped pattern - resembling their namesake - they've become a gateway species for countless keepers and remain a firm favourite even among experienced collectors. Native to the Mediterranean region and Southern France, Zebra Isopods combine visual appeal with genuinely easy husbandry. They're hardy, forgiving of beginner mistakes, reasonably priced, and breed readily once established. If you're looking for your first "fancy" isopod beyond the standard grey woodlice, Zebras are the obvious choice. Armadillidium maculatum are true pill bugs, meaning they can roll into a tight protective ball when threatened. They're more active and visible than many species, making them rewarding to observe - especially once your colony builds up numbers. A Glimpse Origin: Southern France, Mediterranean Scientific Name: Armadillidium maculatum Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 18mm Temperature: 21-27°C (24-28°C optimal for breeding) Humidity: 60-80% (with moisture gradient) Rarity: Common An Overview Armadillidium maculatum has been in the isopod hobby for years and remains one of the most commonly kept species for good reason. The bold black and white striping is eye-catching and instantly recognisable, and individual variation means no two isopods look exactly alike. They originate from the deciduous forests and semi-arid regions of the Mediterranean and Southern France, which gives us a good indication of their care requirements: moderate humidity with good ventilation, slightly warmer temperatures, and a preference for a moisture gradient rather than uniformly damp conditions. Zebras are one of the more active Armadillidium species. Once established and confident in their environment, they'll be out exploring during the day rather than hiding away constantly. This makes them excellent display isopods for keepers who actually want to see their animals. A healthy colony can produce a new generation within 6 months under optimal conditions, and they're considered prolific breeders. Be prepared - you may need to upgrade your enclosure or split colonies as numbers grow. Morphs Zebra Isopods have been selectively bred to produce several colour morphs: Yellow Zebra - Yellow and black stripes replacing the typical white and black pattern. Chocolate Zebra - White stripes on a rich dark brown base colour. Dalmatian Zebra - Also called "High White." Predominantly white with scattered black spots rather than stripes. Spotted Zebra - White spots instead of the classic striped pattern. Standard Zebras can also be line-bred to enhance stripe definition and contrast. Basic Care Zebra Isopods are forgiving and adaptable, making them excellent for beginners. That said, meeting their preferences will result in a healthier, more active, faster-breeding colony. They require moderate humidity but not constantly wet conditions. Unlike some tropical Cubaris species, Zebras prefer a moisture gradient - one section of the enclosure kept damp while the rest stays drier. This mimics their natural Mediterranean habitat. Good ventilation is important for this species. They do better with airflow than in sealed, stagnant enclosures. Multiple ventilation holes (covered with fine mesh to prevent escapes) are recommended. Temperature should be kept between 21-27°C. For faster breeding, aim for the higher end of this range (24-28°C). They'll tolerate cooler temperatures but will breed more slowly. These are active isopods that appreciate space. While a small colony can start in a 6-quart container, be prepared to upgrade as numbers grow - they're prolific once established. Provide plenty of hiding spots using cork bark, leaf litter, and wood pieces. They'll use these for shelter, moulting, and breeding. Note: Armadillidium species have a reputation for nibbling on live plants, including moss. If you're using them in a planted bioactive setup, monitor for plant damage. Feeding Zebra Isopods are detritivores - their primary diet consists of decaying organic matter, particularly leaf litter and rotting wood. This should form the foundation of their nutrition. Primary foods: Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech) - essential and should always be available Rotting white wood - highly beneficial Sphagnum moss Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrot slices, courgette, butternut squash, peas Fruits - apple slices (sparingly) Protein - fish flakes, dried shrimp, dried mealworms Interestingly, Zebras tend to prefer leaf litter and wood over vegetables and fruits compared to some other species. Don't worry if they seem uninterested in fresh food - they're likely getting what they need from the substrate. Calcium supplementation is important for healthy moulting. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Crushed oyster shell Remove uneaten fresh food within 24 hours, especially protein sources which can spoil quickly and spike ammonia levels. Place protein foods on the drier side of the enclosure where they're less likely to go mouldy. Appearance and Behaviour The defining feature of Zebra Isopods is their striking pattern - bold black and white stripes running across their exoskeleton. The exact pattern varies between individuals, with some showing cleaner lines and others more broken or spotted markings. Adults reach approximately 18mm in length. They have a smooth, domed shell and relatively short antennae compared to some other species. Like all Armadillidium, they can roll into a complete ball (conglobate) when threatened. Behaviourally, Zebras are more active and confident than many isopod species. Once your colony is established and the isopods feel secure, you'll regularly see them wandering about during the day. They're particularly active at higher stocking densities - a sparse colony in a large enclosure may hide more. They're social creatures that do well in groups with no aggression between individuals. They'll often cluster together under favourite hiding spots. Zebras can tolerate drier conditions better than most isopods, but they still breathe through gills and require access to moisture. Without a damp area to rehydrate, they'll eventually suffocate. Habitat A 6-8 quart storage container or small glass tank (5-10 gallons) is suitable for a starter colony of 10-20 isopods. As colonies grow, upgrade to larger enclosures to prevent overcrowding. Ventilation is important for this species. Provide multiple air holes covered with fine mesh. They're not exceptional climbers, but mesh prevents any escapes. Temperature should be maintained at 21-27°C. For optimal breeding, keep towards the higher end (24-28°C). During winter in cooler homes, a heat mat may help maintain temperatures. Humidity should follow a gradient approach. Keep roughly one-third to one-half of the enclosure moist (with damp moss and substrate), while the rest stays drier. Avoid uniformly wet conditions. Provide hiding spots on both the damp and dry sides of the enclosure. Cork bark is ideal and doubles as a long-term food source. Leaf litter scattered across the surface provides additional cover. Substrate depth should be at least 5-7cm to allow for burrowing behaviour. Substrate Mix A good substrate provides food, maintains humidity, supports beneficial bacteria, and allows for natural burrowing behaviour. Base substrate options: Pesticide-free topsoil (to add bulk) Coconut coir Peat moss ABG mix or similar tropical terrarium substrate Mix in: Rotting white wood pieces Decaying hardwood leaves Earthworm castings (excellent nutrition source) Layer on top: Generous covering of leaf litter (essential food source) Patches of sphagnum moss (on the moist side) Cork bark pieces for hides Maintain a moisture gradient within the substrate - the area under moss patches should stay consistently damp, while other areas can be drier. The substrate should never be allowed to completely dry out, but equally should never be waterlogged. Depth should be sufficient for burrowing - at least 5-7cm. Breeding Zebra Isopods breed readily once established and their needs are met. They're considered one of the easier species to culture. Provide slightly elevated temperatures (24-28°C) to encourage faster breeding. Ensure the colony has access to both moist and dry areas, plenty of leaf litter, and adequate calcium for healthy moulting and reproduction. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) and give birth to live young called mancae. These tiny juveniles look like miniature versions of adults and can be raised alongside the parent colony without issue. Under optimal conditions, expect a new generation approximately every 6 months. The species is considered prolific - a healthy colony will grow quickly, so plan for eventual enclosure upgrades or colony splitting. Juveniles reach breeding age at around 6-10 months, before reaching full adult size.

Crystal Pineapple Isopods, also known as Cristarmadillidium muricatum 'Crystal Pineapple', are one of the rarest and most unique small species of isopods. Native to Spain, these crystal pineapple isopods are known for their distinctive, spiky, yellow to orange appearance that resembles a pineapple. Their unique look and manageable care requirements have made them highly sought after by exotic pet enthusiasts. Scientific Name: Cristarmadillidium muricatum 'Crystal Pineapple' Other Common Name: European Spiny Isopod, Crystal Pineapple Isopod Origin: Spain Size: Adults reach 6-8mm; a variety of sizes may be included in each order Difficulty level: Medium Breeding rate: Normal Temperature: 64℉ to 75℉ Rarity: High Humidity: 50% to 70% (Dry arid environment) Favorite food: decaying leaves, rotting white wood, molting of invertebrates and reptiles Supplements: cuttlefish bone, limestone Stock: Our captive-bred stock is available in limited quantities, with a variety of sizes and ages to suit breeders and hobbyists. Receive: You will receive a mix of sizes and ages, including adults and juveniles, to help establish a healthy breeding colony. Orders: Orders are processed and grouped for dispatch once a week; please note the cut-off time for timely delivery. Cristarmadillidium muricatum crystal pineapple: Introduction The Crystal Pineapple Isopods, often referred to as "crystal pineapples," are a visually distinctive species known for their pale coloration and unique appearance. Native to the Mediterranean region of Spain, these isopods are quite shy and prefer to hide under leaves and cork bark, becoming active during nighttime and early mornings. Compared to other isopods, crystal pineapples stand out due to their rarity, smaller size, and specific care requirements. While many other isopods thrive in higher humidity, this species prefers a dry, well-ventilated environment to ensure proper moulting and overall health. Their preference for a less moist environment compared to other isopods makes ample airflow and lower humidity levels essential for their care. Their striking features and colour are what make them unique from other species. They are rare and are a tad bit difficult to take care of. Due to its tiny appearance, it needs to be handled with care. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Characteristics and Traits Has a spiky exoskeleton that resembles a pineapple. Adults of this small species reach 6-7mm in length, making them one of the smallest isopods. Adults play a key role in breeding colonies, contributing to the growth and sustainability of the population. They are nocturnal; therefore, they are active during the night and early mornings. The isopods roll into a ball when they sense danger. They have a light yellow to washed-out orange color, which is different from other bright-colored isopods. They are hardy and easy to breed on decayed leaves and rotting wood. Like other Spanish species, these prefer a less moist environment with plenty of airflow, thriving in dry and arid conditions. When maintained at the desired temperature and humidity, it enables breeding and producing large broods. These species require plenty of air circulation in their enclosure to mimic the environment. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Diet As detritivores, these roly polys consume pretty much everything. But in captivity, providing various types of food is important. Leaf litter is an essential part of their diet, providing both nutrition and habitat. Suitable foods include leaves, rotten wooden bark of oak, and white wood, which will help provide nutrition as well as a habitat for the creatures. Ensure a balanced diet with a variety of foods to promote optimal health. Vegetable scraps and vegetables like carrots and cucumbers help to provide necessary nutrition. It is crucial to add protein twice a week in their diet, therefore fish food, molting of other reptiles and invertebrates and dried shrimp is added for protein. Substitutes like cuttlebone and limestone provide a rich source of calcium which is necessary for this species. It is crucial to avoid feeding food that has no salt in it and wooden bark and leaves have no pesticide. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Basic Care and Maintenance To maintain the thriving population, it is crucial to provide basic care for the isopods. People who are pets to these creatures require timely care and attention. Check and make sure the temperature of the enclosure is maintained regularly. It is important to make sure that the temperature falls within their ideal range. Though these creatures prefer a dry atmosphere, it doesn't mean a desert-like atmosphere. Providing moisture on parts that have sphagnum moss helps to retain and provide necessary hydration. For additional information about how live plants can benefit isopod enclosures, see Keeping live plants with your isopods. Make sure to maintain the humidity at the ideal humidity level for the isopods to thrive. To maintain a healthy environment, it is important to clean the enclosure and remove any remaining food bits within the substrate. Make sure to occasionally add supplements like oyster shells and cuttlebone for better nutrition. Monitor the size of the brood and make sure to provide another enclosure if the species are overpopulated. This helps to prevent overcrowding and competition among species for food and other resources. Maintain the enclosure free of fruit flies, molds, gnats, and other harmful parasites that may affect the population. Providing timely supplements into the enclosure for the species to have a healthy exoskeleton. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Natural Habitat and Moist Environment Compared These crustaceans are native to the Mediterranean region of Spain. Their natural habitat is dry and arid, with less moisture and plenty of ventilation. These critters do require water but in very small quantities. Though these isopods are quite versatile, it is important to mimic their natural habitat. This helps to provide an optimal environment for the breeding and health of the isopods. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Artificial Setting Creating a suitable environment in an artificial setting is important. It helps to maintain optimal health and bring out their natural character for hobbyists to admire and observe.  The isopods have to be kept in a shoebox-size enclosure. The temperature must be maintained around 18℃ to 24℃, which is ideal for the critters to breed and for optimal health. Since they are from an arid region, the setting should mirror their natural habitat. Even though these isopods prefer arid, they still need hydration. Therefore, adding sphagnum moss helps retain moisture in the artificial setting.  These species prefer plenty of airflow in the enclosure. When setting up an artificial setting, it is important to invest in an enclosure with ventilation. The ventilation needs to be small or covered with mesh to prevent these creatures from escaping. If opting for a DIY method, make sure to drill small holes around the enclosure above the substrate to maintain the microclimate of the artificial setting.  Premium substrate mixes for isopods are available in stores, which helps provide a perfect mix of elements. If you're interested in taking your isopod care further and potentially breeding your isopods for profit, proper substrate is a great starting point. These elements include: Flake soil Organic potting soil Oyster seashell   Adding the substrate mix provides a perfect base for the artificial setting. Make sure to provide a thick bed of around 3 inches to provide ample space for the creatures to hide and dig. When adding the substrate, opt for an isopod substrate mix, which provides a complete base for the enclosure. Add leaves on the substrate along with limestone rocks to the substrate. For hydration, add sphagnum moss to the side of the box instead of covering the whole enclosure. Make sure to provide wooden bark as well to provide hiding space and mimic the natural environment. Since these species are shy in nature, therefore cork bark flat helps to provide hiding space for the isopod brood. Adding dried leaves and limestone also acts as a hiding space as well as provide necessary nourishment for the isopods. By taking these steps, one can create a perfect environment for the Crystal Pineapple Isopods to reproduce and thrive well.

Snow White isopods or Porcellio laevis are species of terrestrial crustaceans of the Isopoda order. They are known for their striking white light grey colour, which resembles the snow, hence the name 'snow-white'. Their unique and attractive aesthetics stand in contrast to their environment. Due to their striking features and aesthetics, they are more prevalent in the exotic pet and bioactive vivarium communities.  Snow White Isopods: Outline Origin: Central and South America Scientific Name: Porcellio laevis Maintenance: Low Size: 2cm to 3cm Rarity: Low Temperature:60℉ to80℉ Humidity: 55% to 75% Favourite Foods: Fruit, vegetables, fish food  Supplements: Cuttlebone (or calcium powder) Snow White Isopods: Introduction Snow White Isopods of the Crustaceans order are native to various regions, particularly Central and South America. These little creatures are diurnal. They are highly active during the daytime and are best for those studying nature and activities.  These speciesare also called clean-up crews. They keep the environment clean by feeding on decaying. Breaking down detritus and maintaining the ecosystem is one of the crucial role played by them. Like most isopod species, Snow white isopods have an insatiable appetite; thus, they consume anything. Enthusiasts appreciate this as they consume decaying plant matter, fungi, and other organic debris, thus contributing to a healthy environment. When paired with springtails, they keep the bioactive clean. Snow White Isopods: Characteristics Snow white isopod adults can be 2-3 cm long. They come in transparent white or light grey combinations resembling the colour of snow, hence the name. Their white body makes them visually appealing. Flat body with a smooth white exoskeleton. They are primarily detritivores, i.e. they get nutrition by consuming rotten plants and animals. They have a voracious appetite and eat almost everything. While consuming food, they take their food into their burrows to eat peacefully. These species are diurnal; watching them during the daytime is pretty enjoyable. They are one of the larger isopod species. Due to their large body, they try to dominate over smaller species. They must be paired with other large isopod species as they may consume tiny ones. They are easy to care for and are highly adaptable to the environment they are in. Easy to breed if kept at an optimal temperature. They can be fed anything like fruits, small fish, etc. Easy to maintain and is beginner and child-friendly. Snow White Isopods: Food and Diet Snow white isopods are detritivores in nature. People underestimate their appetite, thinking they eat little, but these creatures have a voracious appetite. Another joint mistake owners also make is overfeeding them. Overfeeding attracts fungus, gnats, mites and fruit flies. Therefore, feeding only enough food that these isopods can finish a single session is crucial. Snow White isopods are very active; therefore, they require protein and calcium at least two times a week. Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, and eggshells are fed to keep them healthy. Large-sized food like fish and pink mice is given in large colonies. Protein, calcium and vegetables- this rich diet is essential for their health. Snow White Isopods: Breeding Highly prolific in large colonies Reproduction age starts early. i.e. don't have to grow to its adult stage to reproduce Offsprings develop quickly within 7-8 months. The process involves a mechanism called 'Pouching.' Females carry their eggs in a specialised pouch until they hatch into offspring. They can produce offspring in both natural and captive environments. Snow White Isopods: Environment Care Snow white isopods share similarities with other species regarding habitat and care. They thrive in moderate to highly humid environments with proper ventilation systems. Maintaining the substrate with a humidity gradient of wet and dry areas allows them to regulate their hydration level.  Initially, for these species to get familiar with the enclosure, it is better to keep the Snow White isopods in a small container box. Once they get acquainted with the atmospheric conditions, shift them into a well-ventilated acrylic or glass container. It is essential to have cross ventilations in the enclosure to maintain the ideal temperature for the species to breed. Additionally, provide various options and substrates for them to burrow deep. Providing wide varieties of decaying organic matter like rotten whitewood, dried leaves, wood bark, sphagnum moss, etc.  High humidity inside the enclosure often invites unwanted guests like gnats, mites, fruit flies, etc. To prevent unwanted pests and fungus, pairing the species with springtails will keep the environment clean. Snow White Isopods exhibit excellent health and breeding if kept at an optimal temperature of 60° F to 80° F. Snow White Isopods: Substrate Creating an ideal substrate mix for Snow White isopods is crucial. It ensures their well-being, reproduction and overall environmental health. Their habitat has to mimic the natural environment, which includes providing a balance of moisture, organic matter and proper ventilation. The primary substrate for Snow White isopods consists of a mixture of coco peat, peat moss and organic leaf litter. The coco peat keeps the moisture in the enclosure, maintaining a humid environment, while peat moss contributes to the overall structure of the substrate. They aid in maintaining appropriate moisture levels. These two components provide a suitable habitat for the Snow White Isopods to burrow and explore.  Organic leaf litter provides food for these species and creates a natural environment. The Bark of the Oak tree and whitewood bark are commonly used as they break down slowly, providing a continuous source of nutrition. This bark also provides the isopods to hide, adding to the terrarium's aesthetics.  In addition to these primary components, adding a layer of sphagnum moss can enhance moisture retention and create a microclimate within the substrate enclosure. This is crucial for the Snow White isopods, who prefer humid environments.  Ventilation is necessary to maintain a proper balance in moisture. Regular misting helps to keep the substrate moist. Holes for ventilation are provided to prevent the enclosure from excess humidity. The substrate humidity gradient has to be in a way that it is both damp and dry.  Protein supplements are necessary for these creatures; therefore, earthworm bits are limestone mixed or calcium supplements mixed with the substrate to ensure their health. In conclusion, a well-balanced substrate mix constitutes all the above elements that support their physical health and mimic nature, thus encouraging their natural behaviour. This captive environment makes the Snow White isopods thrive in the artificial environment.

This is Porcellio laevis "Orange" - a classic hardy species and one of the best beginner isopods available. The current description mentions coconut coir in the substrate section which I'll remove. At £3.50 for 10, this is excellent value for a genuinely useful, attractive species. Porcellio laevis "Orange" (Giant Orange Isopods) is one of the hobby's most reliable and versatile species. This vibrant orange morph of the smooth-bodied laevis offers everything a keeper could want: hardiness, prolific breeding, attractive colouration, and genuine functionality as bioactive cleanup crew. Originally from Europe (possibly North Africa), they've become a worldwide staple in the isopod hobby for good reason. At £3.50 for 10, they represent outstanding value—particularly for keepers needing large populations for bioactive setups or as feeder colonies. A Glimpse Origin: Europe (possibly North Africa originally) Scientific Name: Porcellio laevis "Orange" Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.8-2.3 cm Rarity: Low (widely available) Lifespan: Up to 2 years Temperature: 16-32°C (60-90°F) Ventilation: Medium to High Humidity: 55-75% Favorite food: Vegetables, decaying organic matter, leaf litter Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, oyster shell Porcellio laevis Orange: Introduction Porcellio laevis is one of the most established species in the isopod hobby, and the Orange morph combines that proven reliability with genuinely attractive colouration. The bright orange carapace with subtle white highlights makes them visually appealing while retaining all the hardiness that makes standard laevis so popular. Their common name "Giant Orange" is slightly misleading—they're not giant compared to species like P. expansus or P. hoffmannseggii. At 1.8-2.3cm, they're moderate-sized. However, they're larger than many commonly kept isopods, and their robust, active nature makes them feel substantial. What distinguishes laevis from many species is their combination of traits: they're hardy across a wide temperature range, breed prolifically, have large appetites that make them excellent cleanup crew, and their calcium-rich exoskeletons make them valuable as feeders for reptiles and amphibians. The Orange morph adds visual appeal without sacrificing any of these practical advantages. They're sometimes described as "aggressive," which deserves clarification. They're not aggressive toward keepers or in a dangerous sense—they're simply bold, active isopods that compete effectively for food. Adult laevis will outcompete smaller or more timid species at feeding time. This assertiveness is actually advantageous in bioactive setups where you want effective waste processing. Porcellio laevis Orange: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach 1.8-2.3 cm Distinctive bright orange colouration with subtle white highlights Smooth, glossy exoskeleton (the "laevis" name means "smooth") Flat, rounded body shape Cannot fully conglobate—body shape prevents complete rolling Calcium-rich exoskeleton (important for feeder use) Fast-moving and active compared to many species Sexual dimorphism present: males more slender, females broader with visible brood pouch when mature The smooth, flat body and bright orange colour make them immediately recognisable. Under good lighting, their glossy carapace is genuinely attractive. Behaviour Porcellio laevis Orange are notably active, bold isopods. Activity patterns: Diurnal—unusually for isopods, they're active during the day rather than strictly nocturnal. This makes them more visible and enjoyable to observe than many species that hide constantly. Temperament: Bold and confident. They don't hide as much as shy species and will actively explore their enclosure. They're assertive at feeding time—adults will push past smaller or more timid isopods to access food. Feeding behaviour: Large appetites. They're enthusiastic eaters that process waste efficiently, making them excellent bioactive cleanup crew. Their willingness to eat makes them reliable—they won't ignore waste the way pickier species might. Competition: Their bold, assertive nature means they can outcompete more timid species. In mixed-species setups, consider whether tank mates can hold their own at feeding time. Speed: Fast-moving compared to many isopods. They're not sluggish—expect quick movements when disturbed or when food is offered. Social behaviour: Social and tolerant of crowding. Large colonies function well together, though ensure adequate food supply for growing populations. Diet Porcellio laevis Orange have large, unfussy appetites. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood and white-rotted wood Decaying organic matter Shed skins from reptiles and invertebrates Supplementary foods: Vegetables: sweet potato, carrot, courgette, squash Mushrooms Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Greens and vegetable scraps Calcium requirements: Higher than many species due to their calcium-rich exoskeletons. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, oyster shell, or calcium powder generously. Adequate calcium is particularly important if breeding colonies for feeder use. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports growth and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, or fish meal work well. Offer protein-rich foods at least twice weekly given their active metabolism. Feeding approach: They eat enthusiastically and can consume significant amounts. Ensure adequate food supply, particularly in large or growing colonies. Adults may outcompete juveniles for food—distribute food in multiple locations to ensure all individuals can feed. Remove uneaten fresh food to prevent pest attraction. Porcellio laevis Orange: Breeding Laevis are prolific breeders—one of their key advantages. Breeding rate: Fast. Once established, colonies grow rapidly. They begin reproducing before reaching full adult size, accelerating population growth. Sexing: Males are more slender than females. Mature females display a visible white marsupium (brood pouch) between their legs. Males have enlarged reproductive organs visible on close inspection. Breeding behaviour: Males engage in courtship behaviour before transferring sperm packets to females. Females carry fertilised eggs in their abdominal pouch, where embryonic development occurs. Fully developed juveniles emerge ready to explore independently. Colony growth: Expect rapid population increase under good conditions. This makes them excellent for establishing large cleanup crews or feeder colonies quickly. Tips for success: Maintain adequate food supply—growing colonies can outpace food availability. Ensure sufficient calcium for breeding females and developing juveniles. Their hardy nature means breeding success is reliable with basic care. Porcellio laevis Orange: Habitat Setup Their adaptability makes habitat setup straightforward. Enclosure: Plastic containers with ventilated lids work well for culturing. Start with smaller containers for new colonies and upsize as populations grow. Good ventilation is important—they prefer airflow more than humidity-dependent species. Substrate: Use a moisture-retaining substrate that supports their burrowing behaviour: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout Leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Substrate depth of 8-10cm (3-4 inches) allows burrowing. They enjoy digging, so provide adequate depth. Humidity: 55-75%—they prefer damp conditions but tolerate more variation than sensitive species: Maintain a moisture gradient (one side damp, one side drier) Mist one side of the enclosure to create the gradient Allow isopods to move between wet and dry areas as needed Good ventilation prevents stagnation while maintaining appropriate moisture They need moisture for hydration but aren't as humidity-dependent as tropical Cubaris species. Ventilation: Medium to high ventilation. They appreciate airflow. Small holes around container walls (above substrate level to prevent escapes) provide adequate ventilation while maintaining humidity. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces Coconut shell halves Egg carton sections Moss patches (serves as hiding spot and food) Multiple hides distributed throughout Provide hiding options for both juveniles and adults. Multiple locations reduce competition for shelter. Temperature: 16-32°C (60-90°F)—remarkably tolerant of temperature variation. They handle both cooler and warmer conditions than many species. Room temperature in UK homes works year-round without supplemental heating in most cases. Springtails: Recommended companions. Springtails consume mould that can develop in humid areas, helping maintain enclosure hygiene. They coexist peacefully with laevis. Bioactive Use Porcellio laevis Orange excel as bioactive cleanup crew. Ideal applications: Reptile bioactive enclosures (bearded dragons, leopard geckos, skinks, etc.) Amphibian setups Invertebrate enclosures Planted vivariums Any bioactive system needing efficient waste processing Advantages: Large appetites mean effective waste processing Hardy across wide temperature and humidity ranges Prolific breeding maintains populations Active daytime behaviour increases visibility Attractive orange colouration Affordable pricing allows large starter populations As feeders: Their calcium-rich exoskeletons make them excellent feeders for reptiles and amphibians. Prolific breeding supports sustainable feeder colonies. Their moderate size suits many predator species. Considerations: Their assertive nature means they may outcompete timid species Fast movement may startle some animals initially Ensure adequate food supply to prevent them seeking alternative food sources Suitability Porcellio laevis Orange suit virtually any keeper. Excellent choice for: Complete beginners (ideal first species) Bioactive setup cleanup crews Feeder colony establishment Keepers wanting low-maintenance species Anyone wanting attractive, affordable isopods Large-scale bioactive projects needing bulk populations Children's first isopod experience Potential considerations: May outcompete timid species in mixed setups Bold, fast nature might not suit keepers wanting shy, slow species Not suitable if you want rare or challenging species Care level: Very low difficulty. They're genuinely hardy and forgiving of mistakes. Temperature fluctuations, minor humidity variations, and occasional neglect won't devastate colonies the way sensitive species would suffer. Perfect for beginners learning isopod husbandry. Value assessment: At £3.50 for 10 (with bulk pricing available), they're exceptional value. The combination of attractive appearance, practical utility, and prolific breeding makes them genuinely useful rather than just cheap. Keepers establishing bioactive setups can purchase larger quantities without significant expense, ensuring populations establish quickly. Compared to other beginner species: Similar care requirements to P. scaber but with more striking appearance. More active and visible than many species. Larger than Dairy Cows (P. scaber "Dalmatian") but similar hardiness. An excellent alternative or complement to other beginner-friendly Porcellio. Expectations: Expect hardy, active isopods that breed reliably and eat enthusiastically. Expect attractive orange colouration that adds visual interest to enclosures. Expect minimal problems—these are genuinely easy isopods that reward basic care with thriving, growing colonies. Don't expect them to hide constantly or be shy—their bold, diurnal nature is part of their appeal.

Clown Isopods (Armadillidium klugii 'Montenegro') are among the most visually striking species in the hobby. Their dramatic colouration - dark bodies edged with red "skirts" and scattered with yellow or cream spots - is genuinely eye-catching and unlike anything else in most collections. The name "Clown" comes from their spotted, colourful appearance, though their behaviour is anything but clownish. These are actually rather shy, retiring isopods that prefer to stay hidden, particularly when first introduced to a new environment. The "Montenegro" designation refers to their geographic origin along the Adriatic coast. What makes their appearance particularly fascinating is that it's thought to be a form of mimicry. The colour pattern closely resembles the Mediterranean black widow spider (Latrodectus tredecimguttatus), potentially deterring predators who mistake these harmless isopods for something far more dangerous. Armadillidium klugii are well-suited to drier setups than many isopod species, making them excellent choices for semi-arid bioactive enclosures where tropical species would struggle. A Glimpse Origin: Montenegro, Adriatic coast (Balkan region of Europe) Scientific Name: Armadillidium klugii 'Montenegro' Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium Size: Up to 18mm Temperature: 21-27°C (23-26°C optimal for breeding) Humidity: 30-50% (with moisture gradient) Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview Armadillidium klugii originates from the coastlines of the Adriatic Sea, ranging from Croatia through Montenegro and into Albania and western Greece. The "Montenegro" variety is one of several regional forms available, each with slightly different colouration. Montenegro Clowns typically display dark grey to black bodies with distinctive red edging (the "skirt") around their segments, decorated with yellow, cream, or white spots. The exact colouration varies between individuals, and some specimens show more vibrant markings than others. Their cousin, the "Dubrovnik" variety from Croatia, tends to have simpler white spots without the same red colouration. These isopods have a reputation for being slow starters. New cultures often take time to settle in, and it's not unusual to lose a few individuals during the initial adjustment period. Don't be discouraged - this is normal for the species. Once established, they become reliable breeders, particularly during warmer months. Behaviourally, Clown Isopods are notably shy compared to more confident species like Zebras or Magic Potions. They prefer to stay hidden and are most active at night. You may not see them as often as other species, but their striking appearance makes every sighting worthwhile. Varieties Several regional varieties of Armadillidium klugii are available in the hobby: Montenegro - Dark bodies with red skirts and yellow/cream coloured spots. The classic "Clown" look. Dubrovnik - From Croatia, typically showing brighter red coloration with white spots rather than coloured ones. Montenegro Orange - A selectively bred morph with vibrant orange base colouration instead of dark grey/black. Highly sought after by collectors. All varieties share similar care requirements. Basic Care Clown Isopods require slightly different care than many tropical species. They're adapted to drier, Mediterranean-type conditions and won't thrive in constantly humid enclosures. The key to success with A. klugii is providing a proper moisture gradient. Unlike species that prefer uniformly humid conditions, Clowns need a sharp divide between wet and dry areas. Roughly one-third of the enclosure should be kept damp (using sphagnum moss), while the remaining two-thirds stays dry to bone-dry. They absolutely must have access to a moist area for rehydration, but the majority of their environment should be arid. Good ventilation is essential - more so than for tropical species. Stagnant, humid air quickly leads to mould problems and can cause colony crashes. Add plenty of ventilation holes to your enclosure and ensure air can circulate freely. Temperature should be maintained at 21-27°C, with the higher end of this range (23-26°C) encouraging faster breeding. They'll tolerate typical room temperatures without issue. A shoebox-sized container (6-8 quart) works well for a starter colony. These isopods are slow to establish, so patience is required - expect 3-4 months before you start seeing offspring. One important note: Clown Isopod cultures can crash relatively quickly if their specific needs (moisture gradient, ventilation, protein) aren't consistently met. They're not difficult to keep, but they do require attention to these details. Feeding Clown Isopods are detritivores with a preference for leaf litter and softwood over fresh vegetables. Their diet in the wild consists primarily of decomposing organic matter. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak is excellent, magnolia leaves are reportedly a particular favourite) Soft, rotting wood Sphagnum moss (they'll graze on this) Bark pieces Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, cucumber, squash Soft plants (they enjoy nibbling on moss and soft-leaved plants) Protein sources - fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp, dried mealworms Commercial isopod foods Calcium supplementation is particularly important for this species. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Calcium powder Maintaining calcium availability is crucial for breeding success - don't let supplements run out. Clown Isopods have hard exoskeletons that require plenty of calcium and protein for healthy moulting and reproduction. The freeze-dried shrimp/fish provides both and is an excellent supplement. Feed only what can be consumed within 2-3 days and remove uneaten fresh food promptly. In the drier conditions these isopods prefer, food spoilage is less rapid than in humid setups, but overfeeding can still attract pests like fungus gnats and mites. Appearance and Behaviour The Montenegro variety displays a dark grey to black base colour with distinctive red edging ("skirts") along the margins of each body segment. Scattered across the body are yellow, cream, or white spots in varying patterns - no two individuals look exactly alike. Adults reach approximately 18mm in length. They have the characteristic rounded, pill-shaped body of Armadillidium species and can roll into a complete, gapless ball when threatened. The striking colouration is believed to be Batesian mimicry of the Mediterranean black widow spider. By resembling a dangerous species, these harmless isopods may gain protection from predators who avoid them out of caution. Behaviourally, Clown Isopods are notably shy and secretive. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most of their foraging at night. During the day, expect them to stay hidden under bark, in leaf litter, or burrowed into the substrate. They won't be as visible as more confident species, but this secretive nature is entirely normal. They're social animals that live in clusters, using group behaviour to regulate their microenvironment and provide collective protection. Despite their shyness, they're peaceful and show no aggression toward tank mates. Once established and comfortable, colonies become more active and visible, particularly at higher population densities. The initial adjustment period just requires patience. Habitat A plastic storage container (6-8 quart) or glass terrarium (5-10 gallons) works well for a starter colony. Ventilated enclosures are essential - if using a plastic tub, drill plenty of holes and cover them with fine mesh to prevent escapes. Ventilation is critical for this species. More airflow than you'd provide for tropical isopods. Without adequate ventilation, enclosures become stagnant, encouraging mould growth and potentially causing colony crashes. Temperature should be maintained at 21-27°C. For breeding, aim for the higher end (23-26°C). They tolerate typical household temperatures well. Humidity should follow a strict gradient. Approximately one-third damp (30-40% in that area), two-thirds dry to bone-dry. This is different from most isopod setups and is essential for Clown Isopod health. They cannot tolerate uniformly humid conditions. Hiding spots are essential for these shy isopods. Provide cork bark, wood pieces, and generous leaf litter on both the wet and dry sides. They'll spend most of their time hidden, so plenty of cover helps them feel secure. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight, and don't use misting systems that would create uniformly high humidity. Substrate Mix The substrate setup for Clown Isopods differs from typical tropical isopod enclosures due to their need for a sharp moisture gradient. For the dry section (approximately 2/3 of enclosure): Coconut coir (allowed to dry) Sand mixed in for drainage Dry leaf litter on top Cork bark and wood pieces for hides For the moist section (approximately 1/3 of enclosure): ABG mix or moisture-retentive substrate Sphagnum moss layer Damp leaf litter Throughout: Softwood pieces (rotting preferred) Calcium supplements (cuttlebone pieces) Cork bark for hiding Generous leaf litter coverage Substrate depth should be at least 5cm (2+ inches) to allow for burrowing and hiding. These isopods will dig into the substrate, particularly in the moist area. The key is keeping the wet and dry sections distinctly separate. Water only the moist corner - pouring a small amount along the sides rather than misting the whole enclosure. The dry section should remain genuinely dry, not just "less wet." Breeding Clown Isopods breed readily once established, though they're slower to get started than some species. Patience is essential - most keepers report 3-4 months before offspring begin appearing. For optimal breeding success, provide slightly elevated temperatures (23-26°C), maintain the proper moisture gradient, ensure constant calcium availability, and offer regular protein supplements. Breeding activity tends to peak during warmer months, with colonies becoming more prolific in summer. The American varieties reportedly breed somewhat faster than European ones, but all Klugii take time to establish. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch and give birth to live young. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without issue. As the colony grows, you'll notice increased activity and visibility - established colonies are noticeably more confident than new ones. Once breeding begins in earnest, colonies can become quite prolific. However, cultures can crash if care requirements slip, so maintain consistent attention to ventilation, moisture gradient, and calcium supplementation even after the colony is established. Adding fresh bloodlines and substrate every 6-12 months can help prevent colony crashes and maintain genetic health.

The original "Powder" isopod—the morph that started it all. Hardy, prolific, and arguably the most popular beginner isopod in the hobby. Powder Blue Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean, Southern Europe Scientific Name: Porcellionides pruinosus Difficulty Level: Very Easy Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Low Temperature: 18°C to 29°C Humidity: 50% to 70% (moderate) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells Powder Blue Isopods: An Overview The Powder Blue is where the Porcellionides pruinosus phenomenon began. This is the original morph that captured hobbyists' attention and launched an entire line of colour variants including Powder Orange, Oreo Crumble, and many others. If you've heard of "Powder isopods," this is the one that gave them their name. Native to the Mediterranean region, P. pruinosus has become one of the most successful and widely distributed isopod species worldwide. The scientific name translates roughly to "little pig covered in frost"—a perfect description of their rounded bodies and distinctive dusty, frosted appearance. This powdery texture isn't just aesthetic; it's a microscopic surface feature that aids in moisture management and may help with camouflage. These are genuinely among the easiest isopods to keep. They tolerate a wide range of conditions, breed prolifically, and work efficiently as bioactive cleanup crews. The Powder Blue has earned its reputation as the beginner isopod—forgiving enough for newcomers yet useful enough that experienced keepers still maintain colonies. There's a reason they remain popular despite all the fancier morphs now available. Powder Blue Isopods: Appearance The Powder Blue displays a distinctive blue-grey colouration that ranges from pale silver-blue to deeper slate or steel-blue tones depending on the individual and their stage in the moult cycle. The colour isn't a vibrant, saturated blue—it's more of a dusty, muted tone that gives them their characteristic "powdery" look. The most striking colouration appears just before moulting, when specimens develop a particularly lustrous blue sheen with an almost metallic quality. This pre-moult appearance is what really catches the eye and demonstrates why they earned the "Powder Blue" name. Between moults, the colour may appear somewhat softer or more grey-toned. Juveniles typically appear greyish, sometimes with a purplish undertone, transitioning through various shades as they mature. Watching the colour development through successive moults is part of the appeal of keeping a colony. Like all P. pruinosus, they have soft bodies compared to harder-shelled species and reach approximately 1-1.5cm when fully grown. They cannot roll into a ball—when threatened, they rely on their considerable speed to flee. And they are fast; Powder Blues are among the quickest isopods commonly kept. Powder Blue Isopods: Basic Care This is about as close to foolproof as isopod keeping gets. P. pruinosus are remarkably adaptable and forgiving of imperfect conditions. Temperature: Room temperature works perfectly. They're comfortable anywhere from 18°C to 29°C, with around 21-25°C being ideal for breeding. They tolerate temperature fluctuations that would stress more sensitive species. Humidity: Moderate humidity (50-70%) suits them well. They're notably tolerant of drier conditions compared to many isopod species, making them suitable for a wider range of enclosure types. The key is providing a moisture gradient—one damp area while the rest can be drier—so they can self-regulate. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation through small holes prevents stagnant conditions while maintaining humidity. Good airflow helps prevent mould without excessively drying the enclosure. Lighting: Low light preferred. However, P. pruinosus are more diurnal than many isopod species, so you'll see plenty of activity during daylight hours—they're not purely nocturnal like some species. Powder Blue Isopods: Feeding Powder Blues have appetites that seem disproportionate to their small size. This voracious feeding is exactly what makes them such effective bioactive cleaners—they process organic waste efficiently and quickly. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel, magnolia—pesticide-free) Decaying softwood and bark Cork bark pieces Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, cucumber, sweet potato) Fish flakes or pellets for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Meat scraps (sparingly) Commercial isopod diets Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy moulting and carapace maintenance: Cuttlebone pieces Crusite limestone Crushed eggshells Calcium powder Feeding Caution: A common mistake is overfeeding. While they're hungry, providing too much fresh food attracts pests like fungus gnats, mites, and fruit flies. Offer only what can be consumed within 24-48 hours and remove uneaten fresh food promptly. Stick to vegetables rather than fruit, which is more likely to attract fruit flies. Powder Blue Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive substrate with good structure works well. They're adaptable and not particularly fussy about exact composition. A suitable mix might include: Coconut coir or peat moss as a moisture-retentive base Organic topsoil mixed through Sphagnum moss (especially in the moist area—helps with humidity and moulting) Decaying softwood and cork bark pieces Generous leaf litter as a top layer Optional: earthworm castings for additional nutrition Optional: small amount of activated charcoal for substrate freshness Substrate depth of around 5-7cm is adequate. While P. pruinosus are primarily surface-active, some depth allows for shelter and humidity regulation. Powder Blue Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup suits this adaptable species. Nothing elaborate is required to keep them thriving. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container works well for a starter colony of 10. Larger purchases (50-100) will need bigger enclosures or can be divided across multiple containers. Moisture Gradient: This is the most important element. Keep one area with damp sphagnum moss while the remainder stays drier. Mist the wet side regularly with non-chlorinated water. You'll observe isopods migrating between moist and dry zones as they regulate their hydration. Hides: Cork bark, rotting wood pieces, and leaf litter provide shelter and foraging opportunities. While Powder Blues are more visible than many species, they still appreciate places to retreat. Ventilation: Small holes on alternating sides of the container provide adequate airflow. Avoid large ventilation openings—these fast isopods will find and exploit any escape routes. Temperature Stability: Avoid placing enclosures where they'll experience sudden temperature swings. Consistent conditions promote better breeding. Powder Blue Isopods: Breeding P. pruinosus are famously prolific breeders. Provide basic care and they'll multiply without any special intervention. What to Expect: Rapid reproduction once established Large brood sizes Sub-adults beginning to breed before reaching full size Colony establishment within weeks under good conditions Potentially explosive population growth Optimal breeding occurs around 24-27°C (mid-70s°F), though they'll breed across their entire comfortable temperature range. Well-fed colonies with appropriate humidity will grow quickly—sometimes faster than expected. Population Management: In dedicated culture containers, monitor colony size and consider splitting when populations become dense. In bioactive setups, predation by enclosure inhabitants typically helps control numbers naturally. Powder Blue Isopods: Behaviour Powder Blues display the characteristic energetic behaviour of P. pruinosus—active, fast, and engaging to observe. Typical Behaviours: Extremely fast—among the quickest commonly kept isopods More diurnal than many species, with good daytime activity Surface-dwelling, spending most time in upper substrate layers and under bark Voracious feeding, often converging on food sources in groups Cannot roll into a ball—flee rapidly when disturbed Social creatures that thrive in groups Non-aggressive toward each other and tank inhabitants Their combination of daytime activity and surface-dwelling habits makes them more visible than many isopod species. You'll regularly see them exploring, feeding, and interacting—they're genuinely entertaining to watch. Speed Note: Their speed is no exaggeration. When disturbed, they scatter rapidly in all directions. This makes them challenging to catch or photograph, but it's also part of their charm. Secure enclosures are essential. Powder Blue Isopods: Bioactive Use Powder Blues are arguably the most popular bioactive cleanup crew isopod, and for good reason. Excellent for: Tropical and humid bioactive setups Temperate enclosures Semi-arid setups (they're more drought-tolerant than many species) Reptile and amphibian vivariums Display terrariums Drier setups where other isopods might struggle Why they excel as cleanup crews: Voracious appetites efficiently process waste, decaying matter, mould, and uneaten food Prolific breeding maintains population without intervention Surface-active nature means they encounter and process waste quickly Tolerant of varied conditions—work in setups ranging from humid to semi-arid Soft bodies make them palatable to insectivorous pets Affordable and readily available in bulk Their soft exoskeletons make them excellent occasional snacks for frogs, small lizards, and other insectivores. The rapid reproduction compensates for any predation, creating a self-sustaining food source alongside their cleanup duties. Powder Blue Isopods: The Original Powder Morph The Powder Blue is the foundation from which all other P. pruinosus colour morphs were developed. Understanding this lineage helps appreciate the variety now available. Morphs derived from Powder Blue genetics: Powder Orange – warm orange tones, the first major colour variant Oreo Crumble – black and white piebald pattern Orange Dalmatian/Orange Pied – orange spotting on lighter base Orange Cream – mottled orange and cream White Out – predominantly white specimens Red Koi – red and white patterning All these morphs share identical care requirements and can interbreed. The Powder Blue remains the most affordable and widely available, making it the logical starting point for anyone new to the species. Other P. pruinosus morphs we stock: Powder Orange Oreo Crumble Orange Dalmatian Rainbow Mix (multiple morphs combined) Who Are These Isopods For? Powder Blue Isopods suit: Complete beginners—this is the starter isopod Children learning about invertebrate care (with handling supervision) Bioactive enthusiasts wanting reliable cleanup crews Anyone wanting fast-breeding, self-sustaining colonies Keepers on a budget Those needing bulk quantities for large setups or as feeders Anyone who appreciates the classic that started it all They might not suit: Those wanting large, impressive display specimens Keepers seeking rare or unusual species Anyone preferring calm, slow-moving isopods There's a reason Powder Blues remain the go-to recommendation for beginners despite years of fancier morphs entering the market. They're affordable, bulletproof, and genuinely useful. If you're new to isopods, start here. What's Included Each order contains healthy Powder Blue specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony immediate breeding potential. Bulk options (20, 50, 100) are available for those establishing larger bioactive setups or wanting rapid population growth.

A living rainbow of colour morphs from the beloved Powder isopod line—multiple varieties in one mix for maximum visual impact. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean Region (captive-bred colour morphs) Scientific Name: Porcellionides pruinosus (mixed morphs) Difficulty Level: Very Easy Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Low Temperature: 18°C to 27°C Humidity: 50% to 70% (moderate to high) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells, fish flakes Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: An Overview The Rainbow Mix is exactly what it sounds like—a curated selection of different Porcellionides pruinosus colour morphs combined into one visually striking collection. Rather than choosing a single colour, you get the full spectrum of what selective breeding has achieved with this species. P. pruinosus is native to the Mediterranean but has become one of the most successful isopod species worldwide. The scientific name translates to "little pig covered in frost," referencing their rounded bodies and the distinctive powdery texture of their exoskeletons. Over years of captive breeding, numerous colour morphs have been developed, and this mix brings several of them together. Your Rainbow Mix may include combinations of: Powder Orange – warm, vibrant orange tones ranging from pale tangerine to deep rust Powder Blue – the classic morph with metallic blue-grey colouration White Out – pale, almost ghostly white specimens Oreo Crumble – striking black and white piebald patterns Orange Cream – mottled orange and cream variations The exact composition varies depending on current stock, but the result is always a visually diverse colony that's far more interesting to observe than a single-colour population. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Why Choose a Mix? There are several reasons keepers opt for a Rainbow Mix over single-morph colonies: Visual Interest: A multi-coloured colony is simply more engaging to watch. Different morphs scattered across your enclosure create a dynamic, varied display rather than a uniform appearance. Genetics in Action: Since all P. pruinosus morphs can interbreed, a mixed colony lets you observe colour genetics playing out in real time. Offspring may inherit traits from both parents, creating interesting combinations and variations. Some keepers enjoy the unpredictability of what colours will emerge in subsequent generations. Cost-Effective Variety: Rather than purchasing separate colonies of each morph, the Rainbow Mix lets you experience multiple colour forms at once for a single price point. Excellent Value: At £6 for 10 isopods (with bulk options available), this represents outstanding value for a diverse, visually appealing starter colony. Important Note: If you're interested in maintaining pure colour lines for breeding specific morphs, this mix isn't ideal—the morphs will interbreed freely. For pure lines, purchase single-morph colonies separately. But if you simply want an attractive, thriving colony and enjoy colour variation, the Rainbow Mix delivers. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Appearance All morphs in the Rainbow Mix share the characteristic P. pruinosus body shape and texture—small, oval bodies with that distinctive powdery or velvety surface that gives the "Powder" isopods their name. This frosted appearance comes from microscopic texturing on the exoskeleton, which actually serves a functional purpose in water management. Adults reach approximately 1-1.5cm in length, making them a small to medium-sized isopod. The body is notably soft compared to harder-shelled species like Armadillidium—they cannot roll into a ball and rely on their considerable speed to escape threats. Colour Variations You May See: Blues ranging from pale grey-blue to deeper steel tones Oranges from soft peach to vivid tangerine Whites and creams Piebald patterns mixing dark and light Intermediate colours from crossbreeding Juveniles often display bolder colours that develop a softer, more powdery sheen as they mature and moult. Watching the colour development across generations adds an extra dimension of interest to keeping a mixed colony. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Basic Care Care requirements are identical regardless of colour morph—all P. pruinosus share the same needs. This is one of the most forgiving isopod species available, tolerant of a wide range of conditions. Temperature: Room temperature suits them perfectly. They're comfortable from 18°C to 27°C, with 21-25°C being ideal. Unless your home experiences extreme temperatures, they'll be fine without supplemental heating. Humidity: Moderate to high humidity (50-70%) works well. They appreciate moisture but are more tolerant of drier conditions than many species, provided they have access to a damp area. Create a moisture gradient with one corner kept damper than the rest. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation through small holes prevents stagnant conditions while maintaining humidity. Good airflow helps prevent mould without excessively drying the enclosure. Lighting: Low light preferred, though they're notably more diurnal (daytime active) than many isopod species, giving you better viewing opportunities. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Feeding P. pruinosus have voracious appetites relative to their size. This hunger is what makes them such effective bioactive cleaners—they process organic matter quickly and efficiently. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel—pesticide-free) Decaying softwood Rotting bark Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, spinach, sweet potato, cucumber) Occasional fruit Fish flakes or pellets for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Commercial isopod diets Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy moulting across all colour morphs: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chips Crushed eggshells Calcium powder Feed supplemental foods 2-3 times weekly, providing only what can be consumed within 24-48 hours. Their enthusiasm for food means they'll quickly descend on anything offered, but remove uneaten fresh items to prevent mould and pest attraction. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive substrate with good structure works well. The exact composition is less critical than getting the basics right—P. pruinosus are adaptable. A suitable mix might include: Coconut coir or peat moss as a moisture-retentive base Organic topsoil mixed through Sphagnum moss (especially in the moist area) Decaying softwood pieces Generous leaf litter as a top layer Optional: earthworm castings for additional nutrition Substrate depth of around 5-7cm is adequate. While P. pruinosus are primarily surface-active, some substrate depth allows for shelter and moisture regulation. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup suits this adaptable species. Nothing elaborate is required. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container works well for a starter colony. Bulk purchases (50-100) will need larger enclosures or can be divided across multiple containers. Moisture Gradient: Essential for all isopod keeping. Keep one area with damp sphagnum moss while the remainder stays drier. This allows individual isopods to regulate their moisture exposure. Hides: Cork bark pieces and leaf litter provide shelter. While P. pruinosus are more visible than many species, they still appreciate hiding spots. Ventilation: Small holes on alternating sides of the container provide adequate airflow. Secure lids are important—these are fast isopods and will exploit any escape routes. Security Note: P. pruinosus are remarkably quick. Ensure your enclosure is secure, as they will find and exploit gaps that slower species would ignore. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Breeding All P. pruinosus morphs breed prolifically, and the Rainbow Mix is no exception. Expect rapid population growth once the colony establishes. What to Expect: Fast reproduction across all colour morphs Large brood sizes Sub-adults breeding before reaching full size Potentially explosive population growth in good conditions Colour variation in offspring as morphs interbreed Genetics Note: Because all morphs in the mix are the same species, they will freely interbreed. Over generations, you may see: Pure-coloured offspring matching one parent Intermediate colours blending parental traits Occasional throwbacks to colours not obviously present in the parents Gradual shifts in colony colour composition based on which traits prove dominant This genetic mixing is part of the appeal for many keepers—each generation brings surprises. However, if maintaining pure colour lines matters to you, keep morphs in separate colonies. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Behaviour P. pruinosus are among the most active and energetic isopods commonly kept, regardless of colour morph. Typical Behaviours: Extremely fast—some of the quickest isopods you'll encounter More diurnal than many species, active during daylight hours Surface-dwelling, spending most time in upper substrate layers Voracious feeding, often descending on food in groups Rapid, almost frenetic antenna movements Cannot roll into a ball—flee when disturbed Active both day and night, especially around feeding times Their combination of daytime activity and surface-dwelling habits means you'll see plenty of your Rainbow Mix. The varied colours moving across the substrate create an engaging display that single-colour colonies can't match. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Bioactive Use P. pruinosus are among the most popular and effective bioactive cleanup crew isopods, and the Rainbow Mix adds visual appeal to their functional benefits. Excellent for: Tropical and humid bioactive setups Temperate enclosures with moderate humidity Reptile and amphibian vivariums Display terrariums where visual variety is desired Any setup benefiting from rapid waste processing Why they excel as cleanup crews: Voracious appetites efficiently process waste, decaying matter, and mould Prolific breeding maintains population without intervention Surface-active nature means they encounter and process waste quickly Soft bodies are palatable if pets occasionally snack on them Adaptable to various enclosure conditions The Rainbow Mix has an additional advantage in display setups—the varied colours are more visually interesting than a uniform cleanup crew, adding aesthetic value alongside practical function. Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods: Comparing to Single-Morph Colonies Choose the Rainbow Mix if you: Want visual variety and colour diversity Enjoy watching genetics play out across generations Are building a bioactive setup where appearance matters Want to experience multiple morphs without buying separately Don't mind (or actively enjoy) colour mixing over time Choose single-morph colonies if you: Want to maintain pure breeding lines Prefer uniform appearance Plan to sell or trade specific morphs Want predictable offspring colours We also stock individual morphs including Oreo Crumble if you prefer a specific colour variant. Who Are These Isopods For? Rainbow Mix Powdered Isopods suit: Complete beginners wanting easy, visually appealing isopods Keepers who appreciate colour variety Bioactive enthusiasts wanting attractive cleanup crews Anyone curious about isopod colour genetics Those wanting maximum visual impact for their budget Children interested in keeping isopods (with handling supervision) They might not suit: Breeders wanting to maintain pure colour lines Those preferring uniform colony appearance Keepers who want to know exactly what colours they're getting What's Included Each order contains a selection of healthy P. pruinosus specimens representing multiple colour morphs from our breeding stock. The exact morph composition varies based on current availability, but all orders include genuine colour variety. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony immediate breeding potential. Bulk options (20, 50, 100) are available for those establishing larger setups or wanting rapid population growth.

The Moo Cow isopods are one of the morphs of Porcellio Scaber and are beginner friendly isopods for enthusiasts who are new to the hobby. The white body with black freckled spots on their exoskeleton often gets confused with Porcellio laevis Dairy Cow species. Due to adaptability to various environmental conditions, these species are widely available.  Moo Cow Isopods: A Glimpse ●      Scientific Name: Porcellio Scaber "Moo Cow" ●      Common name: Common Rough Woodlouse ●      Origin: Europe ●      Size: 1.8 cm ●      Temperature: 17℃- 26℃ ●      Rarity: Low ●      Humidity: 50% to 60% ●      Primary Diet: Rotten leaves, rotten hardwood, vegetable scrap ●      Supplements required: Calcium supplement or cuttlebone. Moo Cow Isopods: A Glimpse Moo Cow isopods are hardy and can tolerate extreme drought conditions. These creatures have much bolder white and black patches on their skin. These species, though they're similar to Porcellio laevis "Dairy Cow," these critters are more active and scurry around quickly. These species are native to Western and Central Europe, and they are now available worldwide due to their popularity. These species are conscious of the environment around their activity depending on the surroundings. Moo Cow Isopods: Characteristic Features and Traits ●      These species have an oval body with a hard white carapace with black patches. ●      Has a granular texture to their exoskeleton and compound eyes. ●      Has two large antennas along with a small inner pair that is used to sense their surroundings. ●      They are one of the morphs of Porcellio Scaber isopods. ●      The calcium-to-protein ratio is 12:1, which is high compared to other insects. ●      These species are active and quick breeders. They multiply quickly; therefore, you need a larger enclosure. ●      These species are tolerant to drought, but it is ideal to keep a third of the enclosure dry and the rest of the enclosure mildly wet. ●      Females can produce around 45 to 90 fertilized eggs and are kept in a fluid-filled sac for around 40-50 days. ●      These isopods can reproduce after three months of their birth and have a life expectancy of 2 years. ●      To protect their exoskeleton from extreme dryness, also known as desiccation, they seek moisture in their environment. ●      Detritivores in nature seek nutrition from decaying plants, fungi, and bacteria that aid the decaying process. ●      These species move quickly and slowly depending on the environment, i.e., they tend to move faster in dry environments and slower in humid areas. Moo Cow Isopods: Dietary Requirements These species primarily get nutrition by consuming detritus, i.e., dead, and rotting matter. These species in the wild feed on rotting organic matter, fungus, and bacteria that consume rotten leaves and other matter. In an enclosure, provide a mix of food like veggies, greens, etc. You can also include molting of invertebrates or reptiles, as well as fish and meat scraps for protein. Calcium is crucial for a stronger and healthier carapace; therefore, you can provide eggshells, limestone pieces, and cuttlebone. If not, adding calcium powder can be great as a substitute for the isopods. These species are voracious eaters, but it is important to provide only the necessary amount of food in the enclosure. To prevent fruit flies, molds, and gnats, providing food that they can consume in a single session is ideal. Porcellio Scaber Isopods: Morphs The Porcellio Scaber "Moo Cow" is one of the many morphs that are commonly available worldwide. Other morphs of these species include: ●      Porcellio Scaber "Orange": They have a distinguished orange color on their exoskeleton. ●      Porcellio "Lava" Isopod: These are cool-looking morphs that have orangish red blotches on the black exoskeleton. ●      Porcellio Scaber "Calico": Bright orange, yellow coloring with smaller, barely visible black freckles. ●      Porcellio Ghost Isopods: Deep lilac to light purple colored species. ●      Porcellio Scaber "Dalmatian": Similar to moo cow isopods, except its spots are smaller and less visible. ●      Orange Koi Isopod: Their bright white and orange color combination resembles the fish of a similar name. ●      Piebald Variant: A recessive gene that has a black and white color combination on its exoskeleton. Moo Cow Isopods: Basic Care ●      When providing an enclosure, make sure to set up a box which is larger than a typical shoebox sized enclosure. These species breed quickly once established and so it is ideal to provide a bigger enclosure. ●      If you like to show off your isopod collection with other enthusiasts, providing a glass enclosure with suitable ventilation will provide more visibility. You can admire their natural activities using such transparent enclosures. If not, a normal plastic container will work just fine. ●      These species love both tropical and temperate climate, therefore make sure to mimic that habitat into an artificial enclosure. ●      They prefer a well-ventilated enclosure and don't require a humid enclosure like other isopods. ●      If you are providing a self-made enclosure it is to ensure that you are making provision for cross ventilation by making enough holes in the enclosure. ●      For these clean up critters, provide substrate mix in the enclosure that has rotten leaves in the mix or provide a custom mix of coco peat, leaf litter, small amount of soil and moss to retain moisture. ●      Make sure to provide the substrate bedding for around 1-3 inches within the enclosure. ●      It has to be ensured that the substrate they keep inside the container should be damped up to about one third of the total portion. ●      While carrying out misting, the damp area and the wet area should be maintained separately. The areas should not be exchanged. ●      Moss is to be kept only in the damp areas to maintain the moisture content. These mosses are also a type of food for them thus serving dual purpose. ●      The enclosure should be periodically inspected and must ensure that the leaflets and other food items are present inside the container. ●      If the moisture content is higher, there can be increased mold growth, which is not good for your pets. To avoid this, you can add springtails, which prey on the mold and will help you to keep the area clean. ●      It is important to keep hiding areas inside the enclosure. Towards this you can coconut shell or bark of wood which will act as the perfect hiding space for them. You can also keep crates of eggs which also are equally good hide out areas for your pets.

Everything you like about normal gestoris but over 20% bigger - meet the Jumbo Gestroi Isopods originate from the tropical region of France. Their origins in the warm, humid forests of this region provide them with a natural habitat rich in decaying wood and leaf litter, which is essential for their health and breeding. Compared to other isopod species, such as the popular White Shark or Rubber Ducky isopods, Jumbo Gestroi stand out for their impressive size and vibrant coloration. The neon yellow on them is brighter in appearance compared to the normal gestrois, and some individuals may display pale or white markings that add to their striking look. High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: France Scientific Name: Armadillidium gestroi Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 2 Centimeters Rarity: Low/ Medium Temperature: 68℉ to77℉ Humidity: 70% to 80% Favourite Foods: Fish Carcasses, Shrimp   Jumbo Gestroi Isopods: An Overview High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods are not very commonly found in comparison to other popular isotopes from the same origin. These European natives are renownedfor theirvibrant high yellow exoskeletons that exude a radiant glow. They have a distinctive yellow and cream color, scattered patches, and markings. They are suitable for novice keepers. Being native to regions in the Mediterranean and Southern Europe, High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods have an enclosure with high-humidity. They have a veryimpressive appearance.They make good pets because of their ease of care. You can use plastic and glass enclosures to house them. Feeding Jumbo Gestroi Isopods is very convenient. These isopods can eat mostly anything from decaying plant and animal matter to vegetables and fungi. You will need to ensure a humid atmosphere to conveniently house them. Minimize exposure to severe weather conditions whenever possible. High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopods: Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods. You can use either a glass vivarium or plastic containers for housing for your Jumbo Gestroi Isopods. Maintain the container’s temperature within 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. It is essential to ensure high humidity inside the enclosure. You can minimize ventilation holes to prevent excessive humidity loss. Don’t keep the enclosure in direct light. Position moss on an enclosure partly. Ensure the moss has enough moisture at all times. Make use of decaying plant and animal matter as food for isopods. You could even feed them with vegetables, fungi, decaying food, worms, dead insects, leaf litter, lichens, and algae where this is available.   High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopods: Feeding High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods are detritivores. They mostly consume decaying plant and animal matter only. They also feed on a variety of food items such as leaf litter, algae, etc.  They tend to be voracious eaters. Since they are ahighly active group, it's essential to provide them with adequate and nutritious supplements to ensure their optimal health.These isotope pet owners can use calcium, protein, vitamin E, and vitamin D supplements, etc. One common mistake made by High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopod owners is overfeeding. This can be problematic due to the high humidity levels typically present within the enclosure. In high humidity conditions, any leftover food can rapidly deteriorate. This can encourage mold growth. It can disrupt the balance within the enclosure. It can potentially result in various issues. Therefore, it's recommended to provide only an amount of food that Jumbo Gestroi Isopods can consume in one feeding session. High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods crave fallen leaves, moss, dead wood, and lynches. They are always looking for food rich in calcium. This is why they often prefer eating different kinds of stones, dead insects, and more. However, you can always feed them with decaying plant matter. High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour High Yellow Spotted Giant isopod is one relatively small isopod. It can grow to nearly 1.5 centimeters in length.   The isopod species’ name is inspired by its yellow color, scattered markings, and ability to curl into a ball.   These isopods have unique yellow and cream color. They have many markings and scattered patches along their lengths.   As these isopods exude a radiant glow, they make aesthetically appealing pets.   As they reach maturity, their color gradually darkens and becomes more like a brown hue.   Since they don't grow very large in size like the giant worms, these Isopods are well-suited for small pets.   These isotopesmake essential members of the bioactive food chain of a terrarium. They help in decomposition and disease control.   They are very easy to maintain and handle. They make attractive pets for children of young ages.   Jumbo Gestroi Isopods: Habitat High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods thrive in high humidity. This is why it is ideal to create a humid environment for them, minimizing any moisture loss whenever possible. Utilize a plastic container to store the Jumbo Gestroi Isopods or add them to an enclosure with live terrarium plants. Once these isopod familiarize with the conditions, then you can transfer it to a suitable enclosure. However, it is essential to keep the total of ventilation holes to a minimum. Excessive ventilation holes can lower the internal humidity, potentially causing unprecedented problems for the spotted giant isopods. Elevated humidity in the closure can attract pests. Add springtails inside the enclosure. This will prevent pests from entering the enclosure. Springtails are also effective in managing mold.  Jumbo Gestroi Isopods: Substrate Mix Selecting the appropriate substrate mix is important for maintaining an ideal habitat for High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods. Since they grow in high humidity conditions, the mix should be advantageous for maintaining such an environment. An optimal mix with excellent water retention properties is essential for preserving high humidity levels within a High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopods enclosure. Given their detritivores nature, adding lichens and leaf litter into the substrate mix can be beneficial for them. High Yellow Spotted Giant isopods also enjoy living inside hiding spots as much as possible. Experts highly recommend that you add a thick leaf litter and lichens layer at the top of the mix. You can add things likecoconut coir, charcoal, calcium supplements, etc., in the mix to create a suitable environment for them