All Isopods (185)

Armadillidium Granulatum orange isopods fast became one of our favourite isopods here at PostPods due to the combination of confidence and striking colour these make for a great option for anyone who wants a colony to be on display almost constantly. Insight Common Name: Spanish Yellow Isopod Origin: Spain Size: 2.5 cm Difficulty level: low Temperature: 64℉ to 82℉ Rarity: Low Humidity: 75% to 80% Favourite Food: Repashy bug burger, leaf litter Supplements: Cuttlefish bone   Introduction Armadillidium Granulatum isopods are one of the largest isopods. They settle into new environments easily and are easy to breed. The yellow spots on the exoskeleton are unique, and they are different for each isopod.    These critters are indigenous to Spain and can be found in, among others, wet environments like fallen leaves, rocks, carks, etc. They are hardy and quite easy to take care of in captivity and are a great addition to terrariums.   Characteristics and Traits They have a textured carapace; therefore, they are also known as Granulated Pill isopods. These roly-polies have soft shells and are used as clean-up crews. Their spots are unique in each isopod. They are semi-aquatic creatures and can be grown in terrariums and paludariums.   They have humps behind their body called "uropods". They help in movement, especially when they feel threatened. It is highly prolific in nature and breeds very early.  Easy to maintain and are child-friendly. They are omnivores, docile and easy to care for. They are from the southwestern part of Europe and are commonly found in gardens, forests, grasslands and urban areas.    Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Diet Armadillidum Granulatum feeds on pretty much all types of food. They are scavengers and feed on detritus, like decaying plants, fungi, roots, and algae. They also feed on dead insects and other invertebrates.    When breeding in a closed enclosure, it is important to provide a balanced diet. Feeding greens, veggies, and fruits helps to maintain its health. Shredded shrimp and oyster shells are provided for calcium and protein. Repashy bug burger is given as an alternative to traditional food, which helps balance all nutrients.     Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Offspring Armadillidium Granulatum orange isopods are highly prolific and produces offspring before reaching adulthood.  It is expected to find small broods along with these isopods who are sub-adults. They produce a large number of litters. The mating of these species is simple. After the mating ritual, the male will deposit spermatozoa into the female's pouch. The female stores them till they are ready to produce offspring. Once the development is complete, the female deposits them in pouches. This later produced up to 40 youngs per brood.  These species can reproduce without their mate. The females that produce offspring without mating will be born as clones.   Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Basic Care Here are the following tips and instructions to provide basic care for Armadillidium Granulatum isopods.  For the isopods, provide a closed terrarium with a moist substrate made of coco peat or peat moss. Mist twice a day, and it is essential to maintain humidity around 75% to 80%. Keep live plants and organic materials in the enclosure. Keep ⅓ of the enclosure moist and leave the rest arid.  Use a glass or a plastic container for breeding the isopods. Provide holes for ventilation to prevent excess humidity. Avoid keeping the isopod box under direct sunlight. Add springtails to prevent and mitigate moulds. Cork bark, lotus pods, coconut halves and egg cartons to create hiding spots for the isopods. Provide calcium and protein-rich food for healthy offspring and moulting. Add various types of moss to serve both as a snack as well as a hiding place for the isopods.   Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Natural Habitat The natural environment of the Armadillidium Granulatum is typically cold, with a lot of decayed food and hiding areas. These species are nocturnal, and they hide under the soil during the daytime. In the wild, these species form clusters under rocks and wooden barks. This is done to retain their body moisture and to ward off predators.    It is necessary to understand the natural environment of Armadillidium Granulatum isopods so that it can be replicated in the artificial habitat setting.    Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Artificial Setting The method of setting up an artificial setup for the isopods should be done in a plastic shoebox tub. Providing a lid for the tubs adds safety to the enclosure. Making a series of holes on the sides of the container will help attain healthy flow and control the humidity inside the enclosure.    Providing a substrate of 1-3 inches (4 in for burrowing species) will provide a proper foundation or base for the habitat. Isopods prefer deep layers and like to feel safe. Add sphagnum Moss and lots and lots of leaf litter, along with pieces of wood or cork bark, to help provide them with a better environment.    It is important to maintain a temperature of around 75℉ and a moisture gradient of around 75% to create an optimal environment for the isopods to live in the artificial setting.    Armadillidium Granulatum Isopods: Substrate Mixture Making a high quality substrate mixture is crucial. As the Armadillidium Granulatum isopods are humidity-loving creatures, one must offer a suitable substrate mix.   The ABG substrate mix is a combination of charcoal, orchid bark, sphagnum moss, tree fern fibre and peat moss. They are very much suited for tropical terrariums as well as isopod substrate mix. It helps maintain moisture without trapping water for proper drainage, thus creating an ideal environment for isopod and springtail colonies.   Making a thick base creates a stable foundation for the isopod enclosure. This, along with adding wood bark, leaf fodder, and protein supplements, creates a suitable environment for the isopods to thrive. 

High Yellow Spotted Giant Isopods (Armadillidium gestroi) are one of the most visually striking species in the hobby. With their bold yellow spots and patches scattered across a dark purplish-grey body, they're genuinely eye-catching - the kind of isopod that makes people stop and look twice. Native to southwestern France (particularly the Aquitaine region) and parts of Italy, these isopods are found naturally along coastlines and in areas with limestone, sandstone, and granite substrates. They're one of the larger Armadillidium species, reaching up to 2cm, and have confident, active personalities once established. Armadillidium gestroi shares similarities with the popular Clown Isopod (Armadillidium klugii) - both Mediterranean species with spotted patterns thought to serve as a defence mechanism. Like all Armadillidium, they can roll into a tight protective ball when threatened. A Glimpse Origin: France (Aquitaine region), Italy Scientific Name: Armadillidium gestroi Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 20mm (one of the largest Armadillidium) Temperature: 20-26°C (21-24°C optimal) Humidity: 60-80% Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview Armadillidium gestroi has earned its place as a hobby favourite through a combination of stunning appearance, manageable care requirements, and rewarding behaviour. The "High Yellow" line has been selectively bred to enhance the vibrant yellow colouration, and the results speak for themselves. These are larger isopods than many keepers expect - adults can reach nearly 2cm in length with a substantial, rounded body shape. Their colouration ranges from bright acid-yellow to pumpkin orange spots on a dark grey-purple base, with individual variation meaning each isopod has its own unique pattern. One thing to note: A. gestroi can be slow to establish initially. Juveniles take their time growing to maturity, and new colonies may seem quiet for the first few months. Patience is key. Once established, however, they produce impressively large broods - reportedly over 100 offspring per clutch in some cases - so your patience will be rewarded. They're more confident and active than many isopod species. Rather than hiding constantly, established colonies will be out exploring during the day, making them excellent display animals. Basic Care Armadillidium gestroi are considered easy to care for once you understand their preferences. They're hardy and forgiving, making them suitable for beginners who want something more visually impressive than standard species. Unlike many Armadillidium that prefer drier conditions with high ventilation, A. gestroi actually favours slightly higher humidity than its relatives. They do best with moderate humidity (60-80%) and appreciate a moisture gradient - one section kept damp while the rest stays drier. Ventilation is still important but should be more moderate than for species like Zebra Isopods. Fewer ventilation holes will help maintain the humidity levels these isopods prefer. Temperature should be maintained between 20-26°C, with 21-24°C being optimal. They're tolerant of temperature fluctuations but avoid extremes - both excessive heat and cold can be lethal. Provide plenty of hiding spots using cork bark, wood pieces, and leaf litter. They appreciate having options on both the moist and dry sides of their enclosure. A shoebox-sized container (6-8 quart) is suitable for a starter colony. Given their slow initial growth, you'll have plenty of time to upgrade as the colony expands. Adding springtails to the enclosure is highly recommended. They'll help manage any mould that develops in the higher-humidity environment and work alongside your isopods as part of a balanced cleanup crew. Feeding Armadillidium gestroi are detritivores, primarily consuming decaying organic matter. Their natural diet in the wild includes leaf litter, rotting wood, lichens, grasses, and other decomposing plant material. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech) - the foundation of their diet Rotting white wood Sphagnum moss Bark pieces Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, sweet potato, pumpkin, cucumber Fruits - apple, banana (sparingly, as these spoil quickly) Protein sources - fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp, dried mealworms Calcium supplementation is essential for healthy moulting and reproduction. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Crushed oyster shell Limestone pieces (mimics their natural habitat) A. gestroi originate from areas rich in limestone, so calcium is particularly important for this species. They'll actively seek it out. Be careful not to overfeed fresh foods. In the higher humidity environment these isopods prefer, uneaten food can quickly develop mould and disrupt the enclosure balance. Offer only what can be consumed within 24 hours and remove any leftovers promptly. Place protein foods on the drier side of the enclosure where they're less likely to spoil. Appearance and Behaviour The defining feature of A. gestroi is their spectacular colouration. Bright yellow to orange spots and patches are scattered across a dark purplish-grey or brown base colour. The contrast is striking and genuinely impressive in person - photos don't always do them justice. Adults reach approximately 18-20mm in length, making them one of the largest Armadillidium species available. They have the characteristic rounded, pill-shaped body of the genus with a smooth, calcified exoskeleton. Their antennae are relatively long and slender. Colouration can vary between individuals, ranging from vivid acid-yellow to warmer pumpkin-orange tones. As juveniles mature, their colours may darken slightly, with the base colour becoming more pronounced. The "High Yellow" line has been bred to maximise the yellow pigmentation. Behaviourally, these are confident isopods. Once established and comfortable in their environment, they'll be active and visible during the day rather than hiding constantly. They may be shy initially (especially as juveniles in a new enclosure) but become bolder as the colony settles. Like all Armadillidium, they can conglobate - rolling into a complete ball when threatened. This defence mechanism, combined with their spotted pattern (thought to mimic warning colouration), helps protect them from predators. They're social and do well in groups with no aggression between individuals. Colonies will often cluster together in favourite hiding spots. Habitat A plastic storage container (6-8 quart minimum) or glass terrarium (5-10 gallons) works well for a starter colony. As these isopods are slow-growing initially, you'll have time to assess space needs before upgrading. Ventilation should be moderate - enough for airflow but not so much that humidity drops too low. A. gestroi prefer slightly higher humidity than many Armadillidium species, so fewer ventilation holes than you might use for Zebra Isopods is appropriate. Cover any holes with fine mesh to prevent escapes. Temperature should be maintained at 20-26°C. Avoid temperature extremes in either direction. Humidity should follow a gradient approach. Keep roughly one-third to one-half of the enclosure moist (with damp sphagnum moss and substrate), while the rest stays drier. Aim for overall humidity of 60-80%. Hiding spots are essential and should be provided on both the moist and dry sides of the enclosure. Cork bark is ideal - it provides shelter and doubles as a long-term food source. Lotus pods, coconut halves, and pieces of rotting wood also work well. Springtails are highly recommended as tank mates. They'll help control mould in the humid environment and won't compete with or harm your isopods. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight, which can cause dangerous temperature spikes and rapid humidity loss. Substrate Mix The right substrate mix is crucial for A. gestroi, providing food, maintaining humidity, and supporting the beneficial bacteria that help break down organic matter. Base substrate options: Coconut coir Peat moss Pesticide-free topsoil ABG mix or similar bioactive substrate Mix in: Rotting white wood pieces Decaying hardwood leaves Earthworm castings Charcoal (helps with drainage and filtration) Calcium supplements (limestone pieces are particularly appropriate given their natural habitat) Layer on top: Generous covering of leaf litter (essential food source and hiding spots) Patches of sphagnum moss (on the moist side) Cork bark pieces for hides Lichens (if available - these isopods enjoy them) Substrate depth should be at least 5-7cm to allow for burrowing. Maintain a moisture gradient within the substrate - the area under moss patches should stay consistently damp while other areas can be drier. The substrate should never be waterlogged but also shouldn't be allowed to dry out completely. These isopods breathe through gills and require access to moisture for respiration. Breeding Armadillidium gestroi will breed readily once established, though patience is required during the initial settling-in period. Colonies can take several months to really get going, particularly if you start with juveniles. Sub-adults will begin breeding before reaching full size, but the slower growth rate of this species means you'll wait longer for reproduction to begin compared to faster-growing species. The good news: once breeding does commence, A. gestroi produce impressively large broods. Some sources report over 100 mancae (baby isopods) per clutch, so established colonies can grow rapidly. For optimal breeding success, provide stable conditions with moderate humidity (60-80%), temperatures around 21-24°C, abundant leaf litter, plenty of hiding spots, and consistent calcium availability. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) and give birth to live young. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without any issues - no separation is needed. Juveniles grow slowly compared to many species, taking several months to reach maturity. This is normal for A. gestroi, so don't worry if growth seems gradual.

Unlike most popular isopods of European origin, the Red Panda isopods originate in the Asian continent. These relatively smaller-sized isopods are gaining high popularity as pets; thus, quality red panda king isopods are in high demand these days. Red Panda Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Level: Medium Size: Up to 1.2 centimeters Rarity: Low/ Medium Temperature: 70℉ to 80℉ Humidity: 70% to 80% Favourite Foods: Mango, Carrot An Overview Red Panda king isopods are pretty rare when compared to their counterparts. These Asian native isopods are characterized by their impressive colour combinations. They are available in multiple colour options and are ideal for kids-friendly starting pets. Being from the humid regions of Asia, they have to have a relatively high-humid enclosure. The highlight of these isopods is their fast breeding capabilities. They are ideal to be grown in both glass and plastic enclosures. Feeding a Red Panda isopod is extremely easy as they eat anything from dried leaves to decaying softwood matter and carrots to mangoes. A moderately humid atmosphere is the best for them, and avoiding exposure to extreme weather conditions is always ideal. Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the Red Panda isopods. Use a glass vivarium or plastic containers to house Red Panda isopods.   Keep the temperature of the container within 65 to 85 degrees.   It is crucial to maintain high humidity inside the enclosure.   You can keep the ventilation holes to a minimum to avoid humidity loss.   Avoid keeping the enclosure under direct light.   Place moss on a part of the enclosure and ensure it always has enough moisture.   Use dried leaves and softwood parts to feed the isopods.   Supply suitable calcium sources such as a clacium powder or cuttlebone.   You can also provide them with protein supplements or sprinkle eggshell powder above the isopod colony. Red Panda Isopods: Feeding The Red Panda isopods are primarily detritivores. That is, they like to consume dead and decaying matter. They also consume a wide variety of food items like leaf litter, rotting wood, etc.  They usually eat pretty voraciously. Being an active group, providing them with enough healthy supplements to maintain the best health is essential. You can use supplements of vegetables, protein, calcium, etc. One of the common mistakes that Red Panda isopod owners commit is overfeeding them. Overfeeding would be a mistake because of the highly humid conditions inside the enclosure.  Any food left in high humid conditions will quickly rot and cause mold to grow. This could spoil the balance inside the enclosure and lead to many consequences. So, feeding only enough food that the isopods can finish in a single sitting is always advisable. Red Panda isopods usually crave calcium food sources. You can use crushed limestone or eggshells to satisfy their calcium needs. Red Panda Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour Red Panda isopods generally grow up to 1.2 cm in length.   They come in bold colour combinations that create much visual contrast.   The patterns are generally found in strips. There are other patterns also.   As vibrant colours are usually not found among them, they cost much less than brighter-coloured isopods like the Rubber Ducky isopod.   They exhibit a beautiful glow on their body when they are young. As they premature, this glow disappears gradually.   As they don’t grow into giant worms, they are ideal for terrariums and as small pets.   They also make great entry-level pets for children with their easy-to-care nature and small physique. Red Panda Isopods: Habitat Red Panda isopods prefer an overly humid habitat. So, it would be ideal if you could provide them with a humid atmosphere where little to no moisture loss happens. You can use a quality plastic container the size of a shoe box to keep the Red Panda isopod for the time being. Once the isopod becomes familiar with the atmospheric conditions, you can shift it to a dedicated enclosure. But when in the container and the enclosure, ensure that the number of air ventilation holes is minimal. Many air holes might lead to a drop in the inside humidity and cause issues for the isopod. Also, providing a good amount of options for them to burrow deep is preferable. They are observed to be good burrowers. They try to retain their body moisture by burrowing and taking cover deep. So, while creating an ideal habitat for them, provide enough ground cover for them to burrow deep. An important thing to remember is that the high humidity inside the enclosure would often invite pests. So, adding some springtails into the enclosure is advisable to prevent pests. Springtails are also great at avoiding mold.  The Red Panda isopods exhibit excellent health and breed pretty quickly if you maintain a moderate temperature between 70 to 80 Fahrenheit. Red Panda Isopods: Substrate Mix Choosing the right substrate mix is essential to maintain a proper habitat for the Red Panda isopods. Being humidity-loving creatures, the substrate mix needs to be supportive of that.  A substrate mix with good water retention capabilities would be ideal for maintaining high humidity inside a Red Panda enclosure. As detritivores, they would find it helpful to have some leaf litter and softwood barks in the substrate mix. While arranging the substrate mix inside the enclosure, add it in enough depth. As mentioned before, Red Panda isopods prefer to dig extremely deep for moisture control. So, the enclosure should have enough substrate mix to support that.  Red Panda isopods also like to have as many hiding spots as possible. So, you can add items like coconut halves, cork bark, lotus pods, etc., in the substrate mix for hiding. Earthworm castings are another addition that you can consider for the substrate mix for extra nutritional qualities.  Experts recommend providing a coco coir layer at the very bottom before laying the substrate mix. At the top of the substrate, you can add a thick layer of leaf litter and softwood barks at the top of the substrate. It is generally observed that the deep burrowing of Red Panda isopods replenishes the substrate mix with all the essential nutrients.

A beautiful pied morph combining warm orange tones with lighter base colouration—all the hardiness of the Powder line with eye-catching dalmatian-style patterning. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean, Southern Europe (captive-bred morph) Scientific Name: Porcellionides pruinosus Difficulty Level: Very Easy Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Low to Medium Temperature: 18°C to 29°C Humidity: 50% to 70% (moderate) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: An Overview The Orange Dalmatian is a pied colour morph of Porcellionides pruinosus, displaying orange spotting and patterning on a lighter base colour. It's closely related to other pied morphs like the Oreo Crumble and Orange Cream, but with its own distinctive warm-toned appearance that's reminiscent of the spots on a Dalmatian dog—hence the name. Like all P. pruinosus morphs, the Orange Dalmatian inherits the species' legendary hardiness and adaptability. These are among the most forgiving isopods available, tolerating a wide range of temperatures and humidity levels while breeding prolifically. The combination of attractive patterning and bulletproof care requirements makes them an excellent choice for beginners who want something more visually interesting than plain-coloured morphs. The Orange Dalmatian morph is sometimes also sold under names like "Orange Pied" or confused with the similar "Orange Cream" morph. While there's variation in how different breeders define these morphs, our Orange Dalmatians display the characteristic spotted pattern with orange pigmentation on a lighter background. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Appearance The defining feature of this morph is the dalmatian-style patterning—irregular orange spots, blotches, and speckling distributed across the body. The base colour is typically a pale cream, off-white, or low-opacity orange-brown, with the darker orange markings creating contrast. One of the fascinating aspects of this morph is how the pattern develops with age. Juveniles often appear predominantly pale or whitish, with the orange patterning becoming more pronounced and vibrant as they mature through successive moults. This colour development means a colony displays a range of appearances, from pale youngsters to boldly-marked adults. Like all P. pruinosus, they have the characteristic powdery or velvety texture to their exoskeleton—the frosted appearance that gives "Powder" isopods their name. Adults reach approximately 1-1.5cm in length, making them a small to medium-sized isopod. They have soft bodies compared to harder-shelled genera like Armadillidium and cannot roll into a ball. When threatened, they rely on their considerable speed to flee rather than defensive curling. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Basic Care Care requirements are identical to other P. pruinosus morphs. This is one of the most adaptable isopod species available, tolerating conditions that would stress more sensitive species. Temperature: Room temperature works perfectly. They're comfortable anywhere from 18°C to 29°C, with around 21-25°C being ideal. Temperature fluctuations that would concern you with other species are generally fine for Powder isopods. Humidity: Moderate humidity (50-70%) suits them well. They're more tolerant of variation than many species—comfortable in both slightly humid and semi-arid conditions as long as they have access to a moist area. Create a humidity gradient with one section kept damp while the rest can be drier. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation through small holes prevents stagnant conditions while maintaining humidity. Good airflow helps prevent mould. Lighting: Low light preferred, though P. pruinosus are notably more diurnal than many isopod species, so you'll see activity during daylight hours as well as at night. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Feeding P. pruinosus have voracious appetites relative to their size—they're enthusiastic feeders that make highly effective bioactive cleaners. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel—pesticide-free) Decaying softwood Rotting bark Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, cucumber, sweet potato, mushrooms) Occasional fruit Fish flakes or pellets for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Commercial isopod diets Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy moulting and shell development: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chips Crushed eggshells Oyster shell Calcium powder Remove uneaten fresh food within 24-48 hours to prevent mould and pest attraction. Leaf litter and decaying wood can remain in the enclosure permanently. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive substrate with good structure works well. P. pruinosus are adaptable and not fussy about exact composition. A suitable mix might include: Coconut coir or peat moss as a moisture-retentive base Organic topsoil mixed through Sphagnum moss (especially in the moist area) Decaying softwood pieces Generous leaf litter as a top layer Optional: earthworm castings for additional nutrition Substrate depth of around 5-7cm is adequate. P. pruinosus are primarily surface-active rather than burrowers, but some depth allows for shelter and humidity regulation. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup suits this adaptable species. Nothing elaborate is required. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container works well for a starter colony. Larger purchases will need bigger enclosures or can be divided across multiple containers. Moisture Gradient: Create distinct moisture zones. Keep one area with damp sphagnum moss while the remainder stays drier. You'll often observe isopods migrating between moist and dry areas as they regulate their hydration. Hides: Cork bark pieces, lotus pods, and leaf litter provide shelter. While Powder isopods are more visible than many species, they appreciate hiding spots—you'll often find them congregating under bark. Ventilation: Small holes on alternating sides of the container provide adequate airflow without excessive drying. Security: These are fast isopods that will exploit any escape routes. Ensure lids are secure with no gaps. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Breeding Like all P. pruinosus morphs, Orange Dalmatians breed prolifically. Provide basic care and they'll multiply without special encouragement. What to Expect: Rapid reproduction once established Large brood sizes Sub-adults beginning to breed before reaching full size Fast colony growth Pattern development in offspring—pale juveniles gradually developing orange markings Colour Inheritance: Offspring generally breed true to the Orange Dalmatian pattern, though natural variation means some individuals will display more or less orange than others. The intensity and distribution of markings varies between specimens, adding visual interest to a colony. Note: If you house Orange Dalmatians with other P. pruinosus morphs, they will interbreed. Offspring may show mixed characteristics rather than pure Orange Dalmatian patterning. Keep separate if maintaining pure morph lines is important to you. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Behaviour These display the typical active, energetic behaviour of P. pruinosus. Typical Behaviours: Extremely fast—among the quickest commonly kept isopods More diurnal than many species, with good daytime visibility Surface-dwelling, spending most time in upper substrate layers Voracious feeding behaviour Cannot roll into a ball—flee when disturbed Social creatures that thrive in groups Non-aggressive toward each other and tank inhabitants You'll often observe them migrating between moist and dry areas of the enclosure, particularly after misting. Their combination of daytime activity and surface-dwelling habits means you'll see plenty of your colony, with the varied orange patterning creating an attractive display. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Bioactive Use Orange Dalmatians are excellent bioactive cleanup crew members, combining effective waste processing with visual appeal. Excellent for: Tropical and humid bioactive setups Temperate enclosures with moderate humidity Reptile and amphibian vivariums Display terrariums where visual interest matters Any setup benefiting from rapid waste processing Why they excel as cleanup crews: Voracious appetites efficiently process waste, decaying matter, and mould Prolific breeding maintains population without intervention Surface-active nature means they encounter and process waste quickly Attractive patterning adds visual interest beyond plain cleanup crews Soft bodies are palatable if pets occasionally snack on them Adaptable to various enclosure conditions The Orange Dalmatian pattern makes them more visually appealing than plain-coloured cleanup crews while delivering identical functionality. Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods: Comparing to Other P. pruinosus Morphs The Orange Dalmatian is one of several pied (spotted/patterned) morphs within P. pruinosus. All share identical care requirements. Similar pied morphs include: Oreo Crumble – black/dark grey and white piebald pattern Orange Cream – similar orange and cream mottling (often used interchangeably with Orange Dalmatian) Orange Pied – another name for the same general pattern type Solid colour morphs we stock: Powder Orange – uniform orange colouration Rainbow Mix – multiple morphs combined The Orange Dalmatian offers a middle ground between plain solid colours and high-contrast piebald patterns—warm tones with interesting pattern variation. Who Are These Isopods For? Powder Orange Dalmatian Isopods suit: Complete beginners wanting an easy, attractive first species Keepers who appreciate patterned morphs over solid colours Bioactive enthusiasts wanting visually interesting cleanup crews Anyone wanting prolific breeding and fast colony growth Children interested in keeping isopods (with handling supervision) They might not suit: Those wanting large, impressive display specimens Keepers preferring calm, slow-moving species Anyone seeking rare or unusual species The combination of eye-catching pattern, easy care, and prolific breeding makes Orange Dalmatians an excellent choice for most keepers. What's Included Each order contains healthy Orange Dalmatian specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes, including juveniles that will develop more pronounced orange patterning as they mature—watching the colour development is part of the enjoyment of keeping this morph. Bulk options (20, 50, 100) are available for those establishing larger bioactive setups.

Armadillidium maculatum "Yellow Zebra" is a selectively bred colour morph of the popular Zebra isopod, displaying bold yellow and black striping instead of the standard white and black pattern. This variation has become increasingly popular among collectors for its warmer, more vibrant appearance while retaining all the hardy, beginner-friendly characteristics that make the species so widely kept. If you're familiar with regular Zebra isopods, you'll find Yellow Zebras just as straightforward to care for—with added visual appeal. A Glimpse Origin: France / Mediterranean (selectively bred colour morph) Scientific Name: Armadillidium maculatum "Yellow Zebra" Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.5-1.8 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 20-26°C (68-79°F) Ventilation: Medium to High Humidity: 50-70% (with moisture gradient) Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, limestone Yellow Zebra Isopods: Introduction The Yellow Zebra is a colour morph of Armadillidium maculatum that has been selectively bred to replace the typical white striping with yellow pigmentation. The result is a striking yellow and black banded pattern that stands out against substrate and makes them particularly appealing for display enclosures. Standard Armadillidium maculatum (Zebra isopods) are often recommended as one of the best species for beginners—they're hardy, tolerant of a range of conditions, reasonably active once settled, and breed well in captivity. The Yellow Zebra morph shares all these characteristics while offering something a bit more visually distinctive than the common black and white form. Native to the Mediterranean region and southern France, the species naturally inhabits semi-arid deciduous woodland. They prefer drier conditions than many tropical isopods but still need access to moisture. Their ability to roll into a tight defensive ball (conglobation) is characteristic of the Armadillidium genus and adds to their appeal as "roly-poly" or "pill bug" type isopods. Yellow Zebra Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults typically reach 1.5-1.8 cm in length Bold yellow and black banded pattern across the segmented body Colour intensity can vary between individuals—selective breeding can improve stripe definition Smooth, domed exoskeleton typical of Armadillidium species Ability to conglobate (roll into a complete ball) when threatened Shorter antennae compared to Porcellio species Juveniles display the yellow pattern from birth, though colouration may intensify with maturity Colour Morphs of Armadillidium maculatum The Zebra isopod has been bred into several colour variants: Standard Zebra: Black and white striped pattern—the original wild-type colouration Yellow Zebra: This morph—yellow replaces white in the striping Chocolate Zebra: White stripes on a dark brown base Dalmatian/High White: Predominantly white with black spots rather than stripes Spotted Zebra: White spots instead of continuous stripes The Yellow Zebra morph breeds true when yellow individuals are paired together. Mixing with other colour morphs will produce varied offspring over subsequent generations. Behaviour Armadillidium maculatum are among the more active and visible isopod species once they've settled into their enclosure. Settling in: Like most isopods, they may be shy initially while they assess their new environment. Give them a week or two to establish themselves, after which they typically become more confident. Activity levels: Once comfortable, Yellow Zebras are reasonably active and will forage openly, even during daylight hours. They're not as secretive as many Cubaris species, making them more rewarding for keepers who want to actually see their isopods. Defence: When disturbed, they roll into a tight ball—classic pill bug behaviour. This is their primary defence mechanism since they can't run as quickly as Porcellio species. Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with other isopods and terrarium inhabitants without issues. Conglobation: Their ability to roll into a perfect sphere is characteristic of the Armadillidium genus and is always satisfying to observe. Diet Yellow Zebra isopods are straightforward to feed, accepting the standard isopod diet. Primary foods: Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, hawthorn, and similar hardwoods) Decaying wood and bark Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, butternut squash, sweet potato, cucumber Fish flakes for protein Small amounts of fruit occasionally Moss (they'll graze on it) Calcium: Essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as a constant source in the enclosure. Feeding approach: They're not fussy. Maintain a base of leaf litter and decaying wood in the enclosure, and supplement with vegetables every few days. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours to prevent mould. Don't overfeed—let them work through what's available before adding more. Yellow Zebra Isopods: Breeding This species breeds well in captivity, making them excellent for hobbyists wanting to grow their colony. Breeding basics: Females carry eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles Brood sizes are moderate Breeding rate is steady—not explosive like some Porcellio species, but reliable Population will grow consistently under good conditions Maintaining the yellow morph: To keep the yellow colouration breeding true, don't mix Yellow Zebras with other maculatum colour morphs. If you want to improve stripe definition or colour intensity, you can selectively breed individuals with the strongest yellow pigmentation. Conditions for breeding: Stable temperature within preferred range Appropriate humidity with drier and more humid areas available Adequate calcium for breeding females Sufficient hiding spots and space Difficulty: Breeding is classified as intermediate, but this is relative—they're still significantly easier to breed than many exotic species. Most keepers with basic experience will have success. Yellow Zebra Isopods: Habitat Setup Enclosure: A standard plastic container with ventilation works well. These isopods benefit from good airflow, so ensure adequate ventilation holes or mesh sections. A 10-15 litre container suits a starter colony, with larger enclosures for established populations. Substrate: Use a substrate that holds some moisture but isn't constantly wet: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention Leaf litter worked into the substrate and layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout Sand mixed in for drainage (optional) Substrate depth of 5-8 cm is sufficient. They don't burrow as extensively as some species but appreciate being able to dig into the substrate when needed. Moisture gradient: Important for this semi-arid species. They need some moisture for hydration and moulting but prefer drier conditions overall than tropical species. Set up approximately one quarter to one third of the enclosure with damp sphagnum moss or misted substrate, leaving the rest drier. This allows them to choose their preferred microclimate. Overall humidity: Aim for 50-70%. Avoid consistently high humidity—these are Mediterranean isopods, not rainforest species. Good ventilation helps prevent the enclosure becoming too humid. Ventilation: Medium to high ventilation is beneficial. Use mesh sections in the lid or plenty of ventilation holes. Cross-ventilation (holes on opposite sides) helps maintain airflow. Cover any openings with fine mesh to prevent escapes—while they're not great climbers, it's worth being cautious. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat stones or slate Hardwood bark pieces Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss in the humid corner Provide plenty of hiding spots. They'll establish preferred areas within the enclosure and feel more secure with options for cover. Temperature: Room temperature (20-26°C) works well. They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. In winter, if temperatures drop significantly, a heat mat on a thermostat can help maintain appropriate warmth. Lighting: Normal room lighting is fine. They're not as light-sensitive as some species and will be active in moderate lighting once established. Suitability Yellow Zebra isopods are excellent for beginners and experienced keepers alike. Good choice for: Beginners wanting an attractive, hardy first species Keepers who want visible, active isopods Display enclosures where appearance matters Those interested in selective breeding for colour Semi-arid or Mediterranean-style bioactive setups Not ideal for: High-humidity tropical setups (better options exist) Keepers wanting very rapid colony growth (Porcellio scaber breeds faster) Bioactive use: They work well as cleanup crew in appropriate bioactive setups, particularly for animals requiring moderate humidity levels. Their size and defensive rolling behaviour offer some protection from predation, though very small juveniles may still be eaten by some reptiles. Care level: Low difficulty. They're forgiving of minor husbandry mistakes, tolerate a range of conditions, and don't have demanding requirements. One of the better species for learning isopod keeping while still having something visually appealing. Value: Yellow Zebras offer good value—they're more visually striking than standard species without the price tag or care requirements of exotic Cubaris or rare morphs. A solid choice for building a collection without significant investment.

Porcellio Werneri isopod, aka Space Pods or Greek Shield isopod, is famous worldwide for its one-of-a-kind shape, colour, etc. This relatively bigger isopod is known for its mild temperaments and compatibility with many climates.  Porcellio Werneri isopods serve purposes like cleaning, aerating the soil, etc., and thus, are in high demand as terrarium pets. These egg-laying species are reasonably easy to care for. You only need a two to five-gallon big container or tank to rear a small community of Porcellio Werneri isopods effectively. A Glimpse Origin: Greece Scientific Name: Porcellio Werneri Difficulty Level: Moderate Size: Up to two centimeters Temperature: 17 to 26°C Humidity: 50 to 65% Favourite Foods: Decaying leaves, fruits, vegetables, etc. An Overview Porcellio Werneri are a relatively large, seasonally breeding isopod from Greece. These isopods are noted for their unique body shape. They are flat, round, and look very similar to a feather. This unusual-looking isopod is popularly sold worldwide as it poses only moderate difficulties to the owners. These pods feature a dark grey color that often crosses into black on significant parts of their body. The outer edge of the body features a milk-white color. These isopods are also known by names like Greek Shield, Werner's Woodlouse, Pancake isopods, etc. Porcellio Werneri requires a good amount of airflow to survive in any enclosure or habitat. Experts recommend keeping at least one-fourth of a Porcellio Werneri enclosure moist to help it stay better. They also require a heavy Calcium diet. Caregivers are expected to provide Calcium and protein supplements to these isopods regularly. Porcellio Werneri isopods exhibit seasonal breeding. So, the juveniles can only be seen during a fixed time every year. Basic Care These isopods are non-aggressive creatures that can live up to four years with proper care.   They maintain a detritivore diet. So, the caregiver should provide them with vegetables, fruits, and decaying organic matter regularly.   Caregivers can facilitate breeding among the Porcellio Werneri isopods by putting the female and male together. But as they are seasonal breeders, the possibility for breeding is limited to two times a year.   Ensure your enclosure is well sized as these isopods can be teritorial and they may fight if they are not spaced adequatley   The younger ones remain in the larvae stage for several months. They need abundant food during this phase. So, the caregiver should be prompt with the diet cycle.   Good attention should be provided to humidity-related issues that can affect the health of these isopods. Such issues are the significant reasons for fatalities among these isopods.   They need a reasonable amount of moisture content. Their natural habitats are usually by high moisture-containing river banks and stream shores. Feeding Being detritivores, these isopods have a diet that primarily consists of dead and decaying matter. They prefer dried leaf litter over fresh leaves. Some of the favorite foods of Porcellio Werneri isopods are as follows. Fruits Vegetables Greens Fish foods Decaying leaves Rotting wood Molting of reptiles and invertebrates It is advisable to give them protein supplements now and then to maintain their overall health. The correct frequency to provide protein supplements to greek shields is twice a week. The best protein sources for them are as follows. Fish flakes Dried minnows Dried shrimp Calcium is another staple element that Porcellio Werneri isopods need to have in their daily diet. There are different Calcium sources available that can provide ample amounts of Calcium. Some of them are as follows. Cuttlefish bones Limestone Oyster seashell Limestone rock Crushed eggshells Appearance and Behaviour Porcellio Werneri isopods are also known as Greek Shield isopods due to their unique appearance. They look very similar to a warrior’s armor shield. They are flat and oval-shaped.  They usually maintain a deep grey body. The grey can sometimes appear like black. At the outer edge of the body, they also have a white shade. At a single glance, the white part looks like a skirt around the Porcellio Werneri isopods’ bodies. P. Werneri isopods are relatively bigger than the other regular isopods. The adult Porcellio Werneri isopod can reach up to two centimeters. Their heads have two long antennae. The exoskeleton ofWerneri isopods is divided into seven different segments. Each segment contains a pair of small legs. The last pair of legs on the last segment of these isopods’ body is much bigger and stronger than the other legs. As far as behavior is concerned, P. Werneri isopods are barely aggressive. They are relatively mild, and the caregiver can even hand-feed them once comfortable. They usually hide from other bigger creatures. On co-existing conditions, Porcellio Werneri isopods exhibit territorial behavior. They usually do not get aggressive against other animals and show a fair amount of tolerance. Porcellio Werneri Isopods: Habitat At least 1/3rd of the enclosure should be moist for culturing Porcellio Werneri isopods.    The enclosure for P. Werneri isopods should have enough air vents, as they require high airflow to survive.    When culturing Porcellio Werneri isopods with other species, it is advisable to use enclosures with ample space. Porcellio Werneri isopod males can get very protective and territorial of their area, and having enough room inside the enclosure is thus crucial.   For starter colonies of Porcellio Werneri isopods, a 12-liter container can be enough.   For large Porcellio Werneri isopod colonies, a 25-liter container will be more than enough.   The temperature inside the enclosure should be kept between 17 and 26 degrees Celsius.    The humidity inside the enclosure should be between 50% to 65%. The enclosure should not be kept completely dry.  Substrate Mix The substrate mix for Porcellio Werneri isopods should contain an ample amount of organic matter. A combination of coconut fiber plus peat moss would suit these isopods. The substrate soil should retain moisture content for quite a while. But it should not be dripping wet, either. Along with the substrate mix, you can supplement a Porcellio Werneri isopod tank with the following elements. Cork bark Leaf litter (pesticide-free) Lotus seed pods Egg crates (for hiding)

A striking piebald colour morph of the ever-popular Powder isopod line—fast, prolific, and almost impossible to get wrong. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean, Southern Europe (cosmopolitan distribution) Scientific Name: Porcellionides pruinosus Difficulty Level: Very Easy Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Low Temperature: 18°C to 29°C Humidity: 60% to 85% (medium to high) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: An Overview The Oreo Crumble is a piebald colour morph of Porcellionides pruinosus, the same species that gave us the immensely popular Powder Blue and Powder Orange isopods. The scientific name translates roughly to "little pig covered in frost"—a reference to both their rounded body shape and the distinctive powdery appearance of their exoskeleton. P. pruinosus is native to the Mediterranean but has become truly cosmopolitan, spread across the world through human activity. It's one of the most successful and adaptable isopod species, which translates directly into ease of care in captivity. These are about as close to "bulletproof" as isopods get. The Oreo Crumble morph displays a striking black and white piebald pattern—dark base colouration broken up with bright white or cream markings. Legend has it the name came from a breeder asking their daughter what the new morph looked like, and she replied "Oreo Crumbles!" The name stuck, and it's certainly apt. At £6 for 10, these represent excellent value for a visually striking morph that will establish quickly and breed prolifically. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Appearance The defining feature of the Oreo Crumble morph is the piebald colouration—a dark grey or black base colour broken up with irregular white or cream patches and spots. The pattern varies between individuals, making each isopod slightly unique. Juveniles typically display bolder, more contrasting colours that take on a softer, powdery sheen as they mature. Like all P. pruinosus, they have a characteristic powdery or velvety appearance to their exoskeleton. This isn't dirt or coating—it's a microscopic texture on the carapace that gives them their distinctive matte, frosted look. This powdery surface actually serves a function, increasing hydrophobicity and helping with water management. Adults reach approximately 1-1.5cm in length, making them a small to medium-sized isopod. They're noticeably smaller and more delicate than visually similar species like Porcellio laevis 'Dairy Cow', which is sometimes confused with Oreo Crumbles but is a completely different species. The body is soft compared to harder-shelled species like Armadillidium. They cannot roll into a ball when threatened—instead, they rely on their considerable speed to escape danger. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Basic Care These are genuinely one of the easiest isopod species to keep. Their tolerance for a wide range of conditions makes them forgiving of beginner mistakes and adaptable to various setups. Temperature: Room temperature works perfectly. They're comfortable anywhere from 18°C to 29°C, though 21-26°C is ideal. Unless your house is freezing or sweltering, they'll be fine. Humidity: They appreciate higher humidity levels (60-85%) but are adaptable. The key is providing a moisture gradient—one area kept damp while the rest can be drier. They need access to moisture but shouldn't be waterlogged. Good ventilation helps prevent mould while maintaining appropriate humidity. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation is important. Small ventilation holes are sufficient—they don't need aggressive airflow, but stagnant, overly moist conditions encourage mould. Lighting: Low light preferred. They're more active in darker conditions, though they're notably more diurnal (daytime active) than many isopod species. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Feeding One thing you'll quickly notice about Oreo Crumbles: they have voracious appetites. For their size, they eat a surprising amount. This is actually what makes them such effective bioactive cleaners. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel) Decaying softwood Rotting bark Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (cucumber, courgette, carrot, squash, sweet potato) Occasional fruit Fish flakes or pellets for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Commercial isopod foods Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy moulting. Provide: Cuttlebone pieces (they seem to love this) Limestone chips Crushed eggshells Calcium powder A word of caution: while they need plenty of food to support their fast metabolism and reproduction, avoid excessive overfeeding with fresh foods. Uneaten vegetables left too long can attract unwanted pests like mites. Remove fresh food within a day or two if uneaten. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive substrate with good structure suits this species well. They're not fussy about exact composition as long as basic needs are met. A suitable mix might include: Coconut coir or peat moss as a moisture-retentive base Organic topsoil mixed through Sphagnum moss (particularly in the moist area) Decaying softwood pieces Leaf litter as a top layer Earthworm castings for nutrition Substrate depth of around 5-7cm allows for some burrowing, though P. pruinosus are primarily surface-active and don't burrow extensively. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup works well. These adaptable isopods don't require elaborate arrangements. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container suits a starter colony well. They don't need vast space individually, but will appreciate room as numbers increase. Moisture Gradient: Create distinct moisture zones. Keep one area with damp sphagnum moss while the rest stays drier. This allows the isopods to regulate their moisture exposure according to their needs. Hides: Cork bark pieces, leaf litter, and wood provide shelter. While these isopods are more visible than many species, they still appreciate hiding spots. Ventilation: Small holes on alternating sides of the container provide adequate airflow without excessive drying. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Breeding P. pruinosus are famous for their prolific breeding. This is a "set and forget" species when it comes to reproduction—provide basic care and they'll multiply without any special encouragement. What to Expect: Rapid reproduction once established Large brood sizes Females carrying eggs in a visible marsupium (brood pouch) Sub-adults beginning to breed before reaching full size Potentially explosive population growth Colony growth can be remarkably fast. In good conditions, a starter culture can multiply many times over within months. This prolific nature is one reason they're so popular as cleanup crews—they quickly establish self-sustaining populations. In the wild, P. pruinosus live approximately 11-14 months, though captive specimens may live somewhat longer with consistent care. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Behaviour These are notably active, energetic isopods with some distinctive behavioural traits. Typical Behaviours: Fast—extremely fast. These are some of the quickest isopods you'll encounter More diurnal than many species, providing better daytime viewing opportunities Surface-active, spending most time in the upper substrate layers and on surfaces Voracious feeding, descending on food sources in groups Rapid antenna movements—almost frenetic compared to calmer species Fleeing rather than rolling when disturbed (they cannot conglobate) Their speed and energy make them entertaining to observe but challenging to photograph! The combination of daytime activity and surface-dwelling behaviour means you'll see more of these isopods than many secretive species. They're social creatures that thrive in groups and show no aggression toward each other or enclosure inhabitants. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Bioactive Use P. pruinosus are among the most popular and effective bioactive cleanup crew isopods available. Their combination of traits makes them ideal for this role. Excellent for: Tropical and humid bioactive setups Temperate enclosures with moderate humidity Reptile and amphibian vivariums Display terrariums Any setup where rapid population establishment is desired Why they excel as cleanup crews: Voracious appetites—they'll consume waste, decaying matter, mould, and uneaten food efficiently Prolific breeding maintains population without intervention Surface-active nature means they encounter and process waste quickly Soft bodies make them palatable to insectivorous animals as an occasional bonus snack Tolerant of various conditions Their soft bodies mean insectivorous pets may enjoy the occasional isopod snack. This is generally fine—the rapid reproduction compensates for any predation, and in fact, pets eating some isopods helps control populations in smaller enclosures. One caution: In rare cases, starving isopods may attempt to nibble on freshly moulted invertebrates or very small, delicate animals. Always provide supplemental food to your cleanup crew to prevent this. Porcellionides Pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' Isopods: Comparing Powder Morphs The Oreo Crumble is one of numerous colour morphs within the P. pruinosus species. All share identical care requirements and can technically interbreed, though most keepers maintain separate colonies to preserve colour genetics. Other popular P. pruinosus morphs include: Powder Blue (the original popular morph—blue-grey colouration) Powder Orange (vibrant orange) Orange Cream (mottled orange, visually closest to Oreo Crumble) White Out (predominantly white) Red Koi (red and white pattern) The Oreo Crumble offers more visual interest than plain colour morphs while remaining just as easy to care for. Who Are These Isopods For? Porcellionides pruinosus 'Oreo Crumble' suit: Complete beginners wanting a forgiving first species Keepers seeking effective bioactive cleanup crews Anyone wanting fast population growth Those who appreciate visible, active isopods Bioactive enthusiasts on a budget Children interested in keeping isopods (with supervision for handling) They might not suit: Those wanting large, impressive display specimens Keepers preferring calm, slow-moving species Anyone seeking a rare or unusual species Their combination of ease, visual appeal, and effectiveness makes them an excellent choice for almost any keeper. What's Included Each order contains healthy specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony the best start with immediate breeding potential. Bulk options are available for those establishing larger bioactive setups or wanting to build populations quickly

Cubaris White Side or Penguin isopods belong to the Cubaris sp. These isopods are named after their dark colour with white markings along the side, like a Penguin, thus making them unique and visually appealing. Due to this striking feature, they are sought after by enthusiasts and hobbyists worldwide. They make a great addition to the terrarium and vivarium. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Synopsis Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris Sp. Maintenance level: Moderate. Size: 0.8 cm Rarity: Low Breeding: Medium (slow to get established but then breed very quickly) Temperature: 70°F to 80°F Humidity: 70% to 80% Supplements: Cuttlebone Favourite Food: Vegetables, meat scraps, fish food White Side/Penguin Isopods: Origin The first class of isopods to be found in Vietnam were the White Side isopods. In 2017, they were discovered within the limestone caverns. The White Side Isopod was later renamed as Cubaris White Isopod. Numerous species have not been fully characterized under the ambiguous genus Cubaris. Since its discovery, this species has become popular, and its population has boomed due to increased demand.Due to their striking features and colour, these creatures look adorable and are loved among exotic pet lovers.  White Side/Penguin Isopods: Characteristics and Behavioral Insights They can grow up to 0.8 cm long. These isopods have dark bodies with white markings on the edges resembling “penguins.” They are social in behaviour. They exhibit behaviours like foraging and grooming. They roll into a ball when they feel threatened or face any danger. Although they can withstand any temperature, the optimal range for breeding temperatures is around 70°F to 80°F An arid environment is lethal for White Side Penguin isopods. Difficult to breed. Once these isopods are established in a healthy environment, they produce offspring. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Feeding Habits Like all isopods, they are detritivores in nature. They eat rotten plants and other organic matter for nourishment. In their artificial habitat, their diet should include varieties of vegetables, fish pellets, leaf litter, commercial bug food and supplements rich in calcium like Cuttlebone. This helps maintain a healthy exoskeleton and produce healthy offspring. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Breeding White Side ‘Penguin’ Isopods are slow to breed in the beginning. They have to first establish a healthy environment before they start generating. Once they set in their bioactive, they start producing their offspring. The ideal temperature for these species should be around 25°C, and the humidity gradient should be higher. Breeding activity can be monitored by observing their behaviour during the mating process. Regular monitoring of their offspring is required for the young isopods to sustain. In addition, feeding them with decaying wood and leaves will improve their health, thus giving them healthy offspring. Genetically different isopods can be introduced to their environment to prevent inbreeding. Moreover, constant monitoring and attention are required to maintain the population of isopods. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Natural Dwelling Cubaris sp. Penguin isopods in nature thrive in humid and thick forest grooves. The Southeast Asian climate was a suitable living ground for these critters. They contribute to the environment by participating in decomposition by feeding on dead and decayed matter. It is crucial to understand the environment so that they can thrive in artificial environments. White Side/Penguin Isopods: Artificial Setting and Care To house a Cubaris sp. Penguin isotopes, creating an artificial setting, involve more than just the substrate mix. It includes factors like enclosure type, humidity control, textured terrains to climb and hide, substrate depth, etc. They are as follows: Providing ventilated enclosures to accommodate the need for White Side Penguin isopods. Maintaining the humidity of the environment is essential. Use mist when needed and ensure proper ventilation to avoid moisture buildup. Keep the temperature of the enclosure within 21°C to 27°C. Avoid fluctuating temperatures as it may cause stress to the creatures. Provide a thick substrate mix as they like to dig in deep to lock in the moisture inside their body. A 6-inch deep substrate will be ideal for burrowing. Providing hiding and climbing spots for these critters. Leaves, Cork bark, and hardwood provide plenty of hiding spots for them to hide. Distributing dried leaves can mimic their natural habitat. This encourages them to bring out their natural behaviour, like foraging and exploring. Isopods don’t like bright lights; therefore, keeping them in dark and quiet corners will be great. To maintain a clean environment, prevent unwanted pests, and remove uneaten food, scraps, and molten exoskeleton. White Side/ Penguin Isopod: Disease and its Cause Like other living organisms, penguin isopods are also prone to various diseases. Their health can be affected due to infections from parasites or bacteria. In addition, environmental stresses jeopardize their health. They also face challenges with moulting and deformities of their shell. Lack of moisture and nutrition leads to the death of the critters during moulting. Continuous monitoring and providing a suitable environment, ensuring hygienic conditions, will help prevent health issues. Moreover, respiratory problems and complications during reproduction are also observed in the species.  White Side/Penguin Isopods: Substrate Mix The Penguin isopod substrate mix is similar to other isopod substrates. The substrate mix helps in mimicking the environment, bringing out their natural behaviour. The substrate should also have a balanced nutrient for the creatures and their offspring to stay healthy. The substrate mix includes: Coconut coir/Coco peat: This provides a solid substrate base. They help in water retention and replicate the natural environment for them to burrow. Rotting leaves: decaying oak leaves and magnolia provide food and nutrition for the creatures. As they are detritivores, they get nourishment from consuming decaying matter. These leaves also offer hiding places for the critters.   Wood: Decayedhardwood and cork bark serve as a nutritional source and a significant aesthetic element for the enclosure. They also provide space for isopods to crawl and hide. Moss: Sphagnum moss is included in the enclosure to enhance moisture retention. They also serve as excellent hiding places for the isopods.   Sand or Gravel: A small amount of sand or gravel can be added to improve the drainage This carefully curated mix can help create a captivating and optimum breeding environment for the White Side ‘Penguin’ isopods. This method supports their needs and allows caregivers to appreciate the natural behaviour of isopods in an enclosure.

The Pink Panda King Isopods are an eye-catching species, known for their vibrant pink and white coloration. A rare and unique addition to any collection, these isopods are popular among hobbyists for their distinctive appearance and relatively easy care requirements. Ideal for bioactive enclosures, they thrive in humid environments and play an important role in maintaining the ecosystem by breaking down organic matter. Their captivating look and low maintenance make them a perfect choice for both beginners and experienced isopod enthusiasts. Insight Place of Origin: Vietnam Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Panda King' Maintenance Effort:Easy Ideal Temperature Range: 70℉ - 80℉ General Size:  ~ 15mm Rareness: Low to Medium Humidity Range: 70% - 80% Preferred Diet: Fruit, vegetables, fish food  Supplements in Addition: Cuttlebone, eggshells Panda King Isopods: Introduction These isopods are generally observed in limestone caves and belong to central and northern parts of Vietnam. These species prefer to be in an environment which is humid. Isopods of length approximately 1.5 cm are seen generally. They play a major role in the ecosystem balancing, by feeding on the decaying plants and rotting wood. They supply nutrients to the soil by consuming the decaying matter, maintaining the balance of required nutrients in soil. Characteristics of Panda King Isopods These critters have black and white colour exoskeletons. They grow up to 1.5 cm in length.  Their striking and adorable features make them one of the most sought-after isopods. They are easy to care for and require minimum maintenance. They are beginner-friendly. They are nocturnal in nature. They breed rapidly once established in their habitat. They are detritivores in nature. It has a soft exoskeleton and is used to feed poison dart frogs and other small animals. Vegetables, greens, and fish food are good for maintaining nutrition. The consumption of calcium for these isopods is a bit higher than other isopod species. Feeding These isopods feed on almost all types of food. They are essentially scavengers and feed on organic waste. However, during confinement in a cage, it is imperative to offer optimal nutrition. They can be supplemented with vegetables, greens, rotten leaves, or even wood. For calcium and protein, dried shrimp, fish food, cuttlebone, and egg shells are great for these species growth and development. Calcium powder is also good to give as a substitute.  Most isopod owners make the mistake of overfeeding the isopods. Overfeeding attracts pests into their enclosure. Therefore, it is important to feed the necessary quantity of food.  Natural Habitat Panda King isopods live in limestone caves and taverns. These species are commonly found in the central and northern parts of Thailand. In this region, caves are abundant. The caves are dark and humid; therefore, they are suitable for the isopods.  Panda King isopods are scavengers. They are also found among rotting leaves, fruits and vegetables. These species like to live in dark areas. They are shy in nature and like to burrow and hide. It is necessary to understand their natural habitat to build an artificial habitat for these isopods. Panda King Isopods: Breeding Panda King isopods are active species ready to reproduce unless acclimated to their surroundings.  Once they adapt to their surroundings, they start producing many offspring.  These isopods have a distinct mating ritual where the male isopods transfer sperm into the female's pleopods. The offspring hatch after six weeks after the eggs are attached to a firm surface. These offspring stay close to their mother, thus forming a small colony. Artificial Habitat of Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods thrive in humid environments. They are native to the tropical climates of Asia and need moisture to stay hydrated. Keep them in a small box to help them acclimate to a new environment. Once they're comfortable, transfer them to a plastic box with ventilation. Use deep bedding, including materials like old wood, dried leaves, and moss, for a cosy habitat.  It is necessary to prevent excess moisture as they may attract pests like mold and fruit flies. To combat this, adding springtails will help keep the environment clean and free of unwanted guests. It's important to keep the humidity right for the well-being of these isopods so they have a comfortable and healthy place to live. So, with proper care and attention to their habitat, you can enjoy the delightful presence of Panda King isopods in your home. Tank Mates for Pink Panda King Isopods Panda King isopods like to live in a highly humid environment. Therefore, pairing them with similar invertebrates that appreciate humidity is best.  It is necessary that tankmates for the isopods should be from the same region as the Panda King. Therefore, invertebrates like snails are the best tank mates in terrarium and vivarium settings. Another species that is suitable to be paired with is springtails. These creatures, when together, will prevent any kinds of pests and will keep the bioactive clean. Preferred Substrate Mixture for Pink Panda King Isopods A perfect substrate blend for Panda King Isopods is one that is deep, and also holds a lot of moisture. Use a small batch of coco coir, sphagnum moss, and orchid bark for the isopods, with the substrate depth reaching approximately 4 inches for burrowing.  Magnolia leaves enhance the habitat further, contributing to moisture retention and serving as excellent shelters for Panda King Isopods and their offspring. To mimic their natural surroundings, incorporate cork bark, dried oak leaves, and other elements into the enclosure. Wooden bark pieces are added to provide hiding spots, and dried leaves are added as food and for aesthetics. Sphagnum moss helps with moisture retention, which is a crucial factor for Panda King Isopods thriving in the environment. Although ventilation is necessary, it should be minimal to maintain the desired humidity gradient within the substrate. It should have both damp and dry areas. For nutrition, add earthworm castings and limestone powder to replicate their native habitat. This all-rounder substrate mix establishes a solid foundation, offering both sustenance and hydration to the isopods. Striking a balance between the various elements encourages natural behaviours and supports the physical health of Panda King Isopods in captivity. It allows them to thrive in an artificial environment that mimics the conditions of their natural habitat.

Jupiter Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a captivating addition to any terrarium, known for their unique black and yellow exoskeleton that resembles the planet Jupiter. Native to the limestone caves of Southeast Asia, these small, low-maintenance isopods thrive in humid environments and are ideal for beginners. With their calm nature and slow breeding habits, they make a striking and manageable choice for isopod enthusiasts, perfect for both display and care. A Glimpse ●      Origin: Thailand ●      Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Jupiter Isopods" ●      Maintenance required: low ●      Average Size: 2 cm ●      Rarity: medium ●      Lifespan: 2-3 years ●      Temperature: 64℉-79℉ ●      Ventilation: Low ●      Humidity: 60-80% ●      Favorite food: Carrots, butternut squash, sweet potatoes ●      Supplements: Crushed limestone, Cuttlefish bone Jupiter Isopods: Introduction These roly polys, like other cubaris isopods, are found in limestone caves of Thailand and other Southeast Asian countries. These have a very calm temperament and is a great beginner-friendly isopods. They are active during early morning and nighttime, so you can watch these critters move around exploring the terrarium during that time. They may be similar to the lemon blue isopods, but these species have a black color on the exoskeleton and not blue. Jupiter Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics ●      These small roly polys are one of the morphs of Cubaris sp. isopods. Their color resembles the planet Jupiter, hence the name. ●      Have small oval bodies that are segmented and have antennae. They have colorful legs in the front area, which makes them unique. ●      They have yellow outlines with black segmented exoskeletons. The colours of these species are due to the acidic nature of the soil in their native land. ●      The wax layer on their exoskeleton helps with hydration, and they molt when the isopods mature and grow. ●      Absolutely delightful and low-maintenance pets which are easy to take care of. ●      These species are egg-breeding type isopods and are slow breeders. ●      These pets are kid-friendly and beginner-friendly. ●      These species are striking and visually appealing, thus making a great addition to your terrarium and vivarium. Diet Like many isopods, these species' primary food sources are rotten leaves, plants, algae, and wooden bark. When culturing them in a terrarium or vivarium, make sure to provide a balanced diet of vegetables, meat, and calcium sources. If not, these creatures are prone to soft shell disease, which may affect molting and eventually perish. Therefore, make sure to provide various types of vegetables like sweet potatoes, carrots and even vegetable scraps. These species are not picky eaters and will eat almost everything that is given to them. For protein you can include earthworm castings, fish scrap, meat scrap into their diet. Adding crushed limestone, eggshells or cuttlebone in their enclosure can improve their calcium intake and will strengthen their exoskeleton. Adin commercial isopod food mix can also help achieve the necessary nutrition for these tiny critters. Make sure to provide portions that can be completed in a single session. Observe and provide food according to the size of the culture. Jupiter Isopods: Personality These species in general have a mild and non-aggressive nature. But when there are other creatures present, then they tend to be a little skittish. They tend to hide when they sense other creatures are present. They don't like to be picked up or touched unless necessary and they roll up and freeze when they feel threatened. Though these creatures love to explore the environment and continue with their natural behaviors like foraging. They are not the best tankmates with other isopods or any other species and tend to attack if kept in a small enclosure. Therefore, it is crucial that there is space in the enclosure. These species take their time to be friendly with their human parents. With trust and patience and also by feeding them their favorite food, these species can become friendly with humans. Jupiter Isopods: Breeding ●      Jupiter isopods can lay eggs without any male isopods, i.e., they are parthenogenetic in nature. This phenomenon is quite common among the isopods. ●      They are seasonal breeders and have a slow reproduction rate compared to other species. ●      The procedure begins when the female produces an egg capsule. After that, she would usually lay the egg capsule in a damp, moist place. ●      The number of eggs in each capsule can range from one to twenty-one, depending on the species. It takes the baby isopods 6-7 weeks after hatching to mature into adults. ●      Once they hatch, they become independent and explore and forage food on their own. ●      The nymphs will molt around four times in their early lives. The Jupiter Isopods enter the reproductive cycle after reaching adulthood, and they can begin to procreate in around three weeks. Jupiter Isopods: Tips to Make an Artificial Habitat The Jupiter isopods prefer tropical climates with rich soil substrate and humidity. Providing a rich substrate mix that contains organic matter will help provide them with a more natural atmosphere for the enclosure. When choosing the enclosure, make sure that there is enough size for these species to breed and produce offspring. Therefore, it is crucial to get a 19-litre capacity plastic container as a starter for the enclosure. You can also opt for a bigger plastic enclosure of 38 litres. Drill small ventilation outlets on the container and make sure that they are small. These species thrive in a humid environment thus small outlets help prevent excess humidity. Temperature within the enclosure should be maintained the same as specified in the description as constant change in temperature may cause stress to these species. Add the substrate mix into the enclosure to make sure that there is enough thickness. A thickness of 2.5 inches is ideal for these species to dig and hide. Add sphagnum moss on one side of the enclosure. Make sure that they cover ⅓ of the container and mist the area with water. Leave the rest of the substrate dry, giving them the option to choose their environment. When adding the substrate mix, make sure to mix dried leaves into it. Sprinkle some more on top of the substrate as well. Adding egg crates and rotten bark or coconut shells can act as hiding spots for the isopod colonies. Adding these hiding spots helps to differentiate each brood and colony and it reduces competition and dominance among other colonies.

The pale, ghostly morph of the Powder line—bright white colouration with all the hardiness and prolific breeding you'd expect from P. pruinosus. Powder White Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Mediterranean (captive-bred morph) Scientific Name: Porcellionides pruinosus Difficulty Level: Very Easy Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Low Temperature: 18°C to 29°C Humidity: 50% to 70% (moderate) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, limestone, crushed eggshells Powder White Isopods: An Overview The Powder White (sometimes called "White Out") is a striking pale morph of Porcellionides pruinosus that's been selectively bred for its bright, clean white colouration. While the original Powder Blue displays dusty blue-grey tones, the Powder White takes the species in the opposite direction—a ghostly, almost luminous appearance that stands out beautifully against dark substrate. Like all P. pruinosus morphs, Powder Whites inherit the species' legendary hardiness and adaptability. These are among the most forgiving isopods available, tolerating a wide range of conditions while breeding prolifically. The combination of eye-catching appearance and bulletproof care requirements makes them ideal for beginners who want something visually distinctive. At just £5 for 10 (with bulk options available), Powder Whites offer excellent value for such an attractive morph. They're one of the most affordable ways to add visual interest to a bioactive setup or start an isopod collection. Powder White Isopods: Appearance The defining characteristic is the pale, white colouration that gives them their name. Juveniles typically display a bright, clean white that's particularly striking. As they mature, the colour may develop a slightly shimmery or pearlescent quality, though they remain predominantly white throughout their lives. Like all P. pruinosus, they have the characteristic powdery or velvety texture to their exoskeleton—the frosted appearance that defines the "Powder" isopod line. This microscopic surface texture helps with moisture management and gives them their distinctive matte finish. Adults reach approximately 1-1.5cm in length, making them a small to medium-sized isopod. They have soft bodies compared to harder-shelled genera and cannot roll into a ball. When threatened, they rely on their considerable speed to escape—and they are genuinely fast. The white colouration makes them highly visible against dark substrate, which is both an advantage (easy to observe) and something to consider for bioactive setups where you might prefer a more camouflaged cleanup crew. Powder White Isopods: Basic Care Care requirements are identical to other P. pruinosus morphs. This is one of the most adaptable isopod species available. Temperature: Room temperature works perfectly. They're comfortable anywhere from 18°C to 29°C, with around 21-25°C being ideal. They tolerate temperature fluctuations that would stress more sensitive species. Humidity: Moderate humidity (50-70%) suits them well. They're adaptable across a range from semi-arid to humid conditions, making them suitable for various enclosure types. Create a moisture gradient with one damp area while the rest can be drier. Ventilation: Good ventilation is important. Small holes on alternating sides of the container prevent stagnant conditions while maintaining humidity. Lighting: Low light preferred, though P. pruinosus are notably more diurnal than many isopod species. You'll see plenty of activity during daylight hours—their white colouration makes them particularly easy to spot when they're moving about. Powder White Isopods: Feeding P. pruinosus are enthusiastic feeders with appetites that seem disproportionate to their small size. This voracious feeding makes them highly effective bioactive cleaners. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, hazel—pesticide-free) Decaying softwood Rotting bark and wood pieces Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot is a particular favourite, along with sweet potato, peas, courgette, mushrooms) Dried shrimp (another favourite) Fish flakes or pellets for protein Yeast Commercial isopod diets Calcium Sources: Essential for healthy moulting: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chips Crushed eggshells Calcium powder Feeding Caution: Never overfeed. Leftover food particles encourage fungal growth and attract pests like mites and fungus gnats. Provide only what can be consumed within 24-48 hours and remove any uneaten fresh food promptly. Powder White Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive substrate with good structure works well. They're adaptable and not fussy about exact composition. A suitable mix might include: Coconut coir as a moisture-retentive base Peat moss mixed through Sphagnum moss (especially in the moist area) Decaying softwood pieces Generous leaf litter as a top layer Substrate depth of around 5-7cm is adequate. P. pruinosus are primarily surface-active rather than burrowers, but some depth provides shelter and humidity regulation. Note on Visibility: Powder Whites show up beautifully against dark substrate. If you want maximum visual impact, use a darker substrate mix. Against pale substrates, they'll be harder to see. Powder White Isopods: Enclosure Setup A straightforward setup suits this adaptable species. Nothing elaborate is required. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container works well for a starter colony. Transparent containers are particularly good for Powder Whites—their active nature and pale colouration make them entertaining to observe. Moisture Gradient: Keep one area with damp substrate or sphagnum moss while the remainder stays drier. Mist the moist side periodically with dechlorinated water. Hides: Cork bark, lotus pods, coconut halves, and leaf litter provide shelter. While Powder Whites are highly active and visible, they appreciate hiding spots—you'll often find them congregating under bark, especially when first introduced to a new environment. Ventilation: Essential. These isopods need good airflow. Small holes on alternating sides work well. Security: These are fast isopods. Secure lids are essential—they will find and exploit any escape routes. Powder White Isopods: Breeding Like all P. pruinosus, Powder Whites are prolific breeders. They're known for establishing colonies remarkably quickly. What to Expect: Rapid reproduction once established Large brood sizes Sub-adults beginning to breed before reaching full size Fast colony growth—among the quickest to establish of common isopod species Consistent white colouration in offspring One notable characteristic of P. pruinosus is that they can begin breeding before reaching full adult size. This, combined with their large brood sizes and short generation time, means colonies can grow surprisingly fast under good conditions. Colour Stability: Powder Whites generally breed true, producing white offspring. If housed with other P. pruinosus morphs, they will interbreed and offspring may show mixed characteristics. Powder White Isopods: Behaviour Powder Whites display the characteristic energetic behaviour of P. pruinosus. Typical Behaviours: Extremely fast—among the quickest commonly kept isopods Highly active, constantly on the move More diurnal than many species, with excellent daytime visibility Surface-dwelling, spending most time in upper substrate layers Voracious feeding behaviour Cannot roll into a ball—flee rapidly when disturbed Initially shy in new environments, hiding under leaf litter until comfortable Social creatures that thrive in groups Their active, visible nature makes them particularly entertaining to watch. The white colouration against dark substrate creates a striking display as they scurry about foraging and exploring. They're genuinely engaging to observe—more so than many "fancier" species that spend most of their time hidden. Powder White Isopods: Bioactive Use Powder Whites make excellent bioactive cleanup crew members, with some unique considerations due to their colouration. Excellent for: Bioactive setups where visual interest matters Enclosures where you want to easily monitor cleanup crew activity Humid to semi-arid setups Reptile and amphibian vivariums Display terrariums Why they excel as cleanup crews: Voracious appetites efficiently process waste, decaying matter, and mould Prolific breeding maintains population without intervention Surface-active nature means they encounter and process waste quickly Soft bodies make them palatable to insectivorous pets Highly visible—easy to monitor population health Visibility Consideration: Their white colouration makes them highly conspicuous. This is an advantage if you want to observe your cleanup crew in action, but worth considering if you prefer a more "natural" look where the cleanup crew blends into the environment. For setups where you'd rather not see the isopods, other morphs like Powder Blue may be more suitable. As Feeders: Their surface-dwelling, active nature combined with soft bodies makes them excellent occasional food for insectivorous pets. They keep pets engaged by requiring active hunting rather than being easy catches. Powder White Isopods: Comparing to Other Powder Morphs The Powder White is one of several colour morphs within P. pruinosus. All share identical care requirements. How Powder White compares: Powder Blue – The original morph; dusty blue-grey; most widely available Powder Orange – Warm orange tones; high contrast against substrate Powder White – Pale, ghostly white; maximum visibility; slightly less common Oreo Crumble – Black and white piebald; striking contrast Orange Dalmatian – Orange spotting on pale base; patterned variant Powder White is arguably the most visible of all the morphs due to the bright, clean colouration. If you want isopods you can easily see and monitor, this is an excellent choice. Other P. pruinosus morphs we stock: Powder Blue Powder Orange Oreo Crumble Orange Dalmatian Rainbow Mix Who Are These Isopods For? Powder White Isopods suit: Complete beginners wanting an easy, visually striking first species Children learning about invertebrate care Keepers who want highly visible cleanup crews Bioactive enthusiasts wanting to easily monitor their isopod populations Anyone who appreciates the ghostly white aesthetic Those wanting fast-breeding, self-sustaining colonies They might not suit: Keepers wanting cleanup crews that blend into the environment Those preferring colourful rather than pale morphs Anyone seeking large display specimens The combination of striking appearance, easy care, and prolific breeding makes Powder Whites an excellent choice for most keepers—particularly those who enjoy observing their isopods in action. What's Included Each order contains healthy Powder White specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony immediate breeding potential. Bulk options (20, 50, 100) are available for those establishing larger bioactive setups or wanting rapid population growth.

Cubaris sp. "Pak Chong" is a Thai cave isopod originating from the Pak Chong district in northeastern Thailand. Named after their collection locality, they're known for their attractive tricoloured appearance—blue-grey body, white frilled edges, and distinctive orange rear sections. Often compared to Bernese mountain dogs for their colour pattern, they combine genuine visual appeal with relatively accessible care requirements. Among Thai Cubaris, they're considered one of the easier species, breeding faster than many cave-dwelling relatives while tolerating more humidity variation than notoriously fussy species like Rubber Duckies. For keepers wanting attractive Thai Cubaris without extreme difficulty, Pak Chong are a sensible choice. Brief Intro To Pak Chongs Origin: Pak Chong district, Northeast Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Pak Chong" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.5-1.8 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 21-32°C (70-90°F) Ventilation: Medium (good ventilation important—cave species) Humidity: 60-75% (moderate, tolerates more variation than sensitive Cubaris) Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Introduction Pak Chong is a district in Nakhon Ratchasima Province, northeastern Thailand, known for its limestone caves and karst formations. The isopods collected from this area have adapted to cave environments—characterised by moderate humidity, good airflow, and calcium-rich substrates. What distinguishes Pak Chong from some demanding Thai cave Cubaris is their relative tolerance. While species like Rubber Ducky or White Tiger can be notoriously sensitive to conditions, Pak Chong handle humidity variation better and breed more readily. They're not bulletproof—they're still Cubaris requiring appropriate care—but they're among the more forgiving Thai species. Their colouration is genuinely attractive. The combination of blue-grey body tones, white frilled edges along each segment, and distinctive orange-red colouration on the rear (and sometimes face) creates a striking tricoloured appearance. The comparison to Bernese mountain dogs, while unusual, captures their colour distribution reasonably well. For keepers wanting to experience Thai Cubaris without immediately tackling the most demanding species, Pak Chong offer an accessible entry point. They're visually rewarding, breed reasonably well once established, and don't punish minor husbandry variations as severely as their more sensitive relatives. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5-1.8 cm Blue to grey body colouration White frilled edges along segment margins Distinctive orange to red colouration on rear segments (uropods/pleon) Some individuals show orange on the face as well Capable of conglobation (rolling into tight defensive balls) Compact, rounded body typical of Cubaris Pattern is consistent across individuals though intensity varies The tricoloured appearance makes them immediately recognisable and genuinely attractive. Well-maintained specimens display vibrant contrast between the three colour zones. Behaviour Pak Chong display interesting behavioural traits worth noting. Social behaviour: Complex social interactions. They can often be seen nudging each other, accompanied by intense antenna flickering—apparent communication behaviour. They show moisture-sharing behaviour, helping colony members maintain hydration. Defensive response: When threatened, they roll into tight defensive balls and may squeeze together in groups. This conglobation behaviour is reliable and complete. Temperature response: Interesting behavioural adaptation to temperature. When enclosure temperatures rise, they slow their movement to conserve energy for relocating to secure areas. In cooler conditions, they become more active, moving quickly across longer distances seeking food and shelter. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will emerge during the day in established colonies. Cave origins mean they prefer dim conditions. Climbing behaviour: They're climbers. In enclosures without secure lids, they may find ways to escape. Ensure enclosures are properly sealed. Burrowing: They burrow into substrate for security and humidity regulation, typical of cave-dwelling Cubaris. Diet Pak Chong are detritivores with straightforward but important dietary needs. Primary foods: Leaf litter in abundance (their main dietary staple) Decaying hardwood Rotting wood Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: potato, carrot, squash, courgette Fresh moss (they enjoy this) Mushrooms Fish flakes for protein Freeze-dried shrimp Bat guano (excellent protein source) Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting. Their cave origins mean they're adapted to calcium-rich environments. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells, or oyster shell as constant supplements. Incorporate calcium sources into the substrate as well as offering them separately. Protein requirements: Regular protein supplementation supports colony health and breeding. Shrimp meal, fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp, and bat guano all work well. Feeding approach: Their main food source should be abundant leaf litter—this forms the foundation of their diet. Supplement with protein and fresh vegetables regularly. Provide food in multiple locations to ensure all colony members can access nutrition. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Breeding Pak Chong breed reasonably well for a Thai cave Cubaris—better than many relatives. Breeding rate: Moderate. They don't breed as explosively as species like Cubaris murina, but they're among the faster-breeding Thai cave Cubaris. Once established, they reproduce frequently and reliably. Breeding characteristics: Not as slow as Rubber Ducky or similar demanding species Colonies grow at a reasonable pace with proper care Described by keepers as "great breeders" once settled Breeding requirements: Moderate humidity (60-75%) Stable warm temperatures Adequate calcium availability Sufficient protein in diet Good ventilation (cave species need airflow) Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance during establishment Colony establishment: Allow time for new colonies to settle before expecting breeding activity. Starting with larger groups (10+) provides better genetic diversity and faster establishment. Tips for success: Cave species require good ventilation—stagnant, overly humid conditions can inhibit breeding and colony health. Maintain the balance between adequate moisture and airflow. Once conditions are right, breeding follows naturally. Cubaris sp. Pak Chong: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means understanding their cave-dwelling origins. Enclosure: A terrarium or container with good ventilation. Unlike some humidity-dependent Cubaris, Pak Chong need airflow as cave species. Enclosed containers with adequate ventilation holes work well. Secure lids are essential—they climb and will escape given opportunity. Living soil terrariums or vivariums suit them well. Size should accommodate colony growth; upsize as populations increase. Substrate: Provide nutritious substrate at least 8cm (3 inches) deep: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for structure Crushed limestone generously incorporated (essential for cave species) Leaf litter layered abundantly on top Decaying hardwood pieces Rotting wood Calcium sources mixed throughout (eggshells, limestone) Optional additions: bat guano, shrimp meal for nutrition. Humidity: Moderate humidity—60-75%. They tolerate more humidity variation than sensitive Thai cave species: Maintain moisture gradient (one side damper, one side drier) Don't let the enclosure become uniformly wet Moss on the moist side helps maintain humidity Don't let moss dry out completely Balance moisture with ventilation to prevent mould They can handle more humidity than species like White Tiger or Rubber Ducky, but avoid waterlogged conditions. Ventilation: Medium—good ventilation is important. As cave species, they need adequate airflow. Provide approximately 5cm of space above substrate for air circulation. Ventilation prevents mould growth and maintains appropriate conditions. This is a key difference from humidity-dependent tropical Cubaris that need restricted airflow. Lighting: Prefer dim conditions reflecting their cave origins. Keep enclosures away from direct sunlight and bright light sources. Position in darker areas of rooms. Temperature: 21-32°C (70-90°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in UK homes typically works. Extreme heat or cold can be harmful—maintain moderate, stable temperatures. Décor and hides: Abundant leaf litter (essential—they love it) Ample moss for hiding and exploration Cork bark pieces Flat stones or limestone pieces Multiple hiding options throughout Their climbing nature means they'll utilise vertical space if provided. Bioactive Use Pak Chong can function in bioactive setups suited to their requirements. Best suited for: Tropical vivariums with moderate humidity Terrariums with good ventilation Setups where attractive cleanup crew adds visual interest Enclosures maintaining 60-75% humidity range Advantages: Attractive tricoloured appearance More tolerant than demanding Thai Cubaris Reasonable breeding supports population maintenance Interesting social behaviour adds observational interest Considerations: Need good ventilation unlike some Cubaris Climbing behaviour requires secure enclosures Mid-range pricing means they're more investment than basic cleanup crew Not suitable for very high or very low humidity setups Less ideal for: Arid setups (too dry) Extremely humid tropical setups with poor ventilation (need airflow) Open-top enclosures (they escape) Suitability Pak Chong suit keepers wanting attractive Thai Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with basic Cubaris experience ready for Thai species Those wanting visually striking isopods at moderate prices Collectors seeking Thai cave Cubaris without demanding care Bioactive setups needing attractive cleanup crew Beginners to Cubaris who've done their research Not ideal for: Complete beginners with no isopod experience Keepers wanting either very dry or very humid conditions Those unable to provide good ventilation Open enclosures (they climb and escape) Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're among the more forgiving Thai cave Cubaris—easier than species like Rubber Ducky, White Tiger, or demanding cave locales. Their tolerance for humidity variation and reasonable breeding rate makes them accessible. However, they're still Cubaris requiring appropriate care—not as bulletproof as hardy Porcellio species. Compared to other Thai Cubaris: More forgiving than Rubber Ducky or White Tiger. Similar care to Panda King but different appearance. Breed faster than many Thai cave species. Good middle-ground option for keepers wanting Thai Cubaris aesthetics without the most demanding husbandry. Value assessment: At £35 for 5 (currently discounted), they offer good value for attractive Thai Cubaris. The tricoloured appearance is genuinely appealing, and their reasonable care requirements mean colonies are achievable rather than frustrating. Customer reviews consistently mention them as good breeders once established. Expectations: Expect attractive isopods with interesting social behaviour that reward appropriate care with steady breeding. Expect some initial establishment time before breeding begins. Don't expect the explosive breeding of hardy Porcellio or the extreme sensitivity of demanding cave species. Expect a manageable stepping stone into Thai Cubaris keeping, or simply enjoyable isopods in their own right.

Porcellio scaber "Lava" is a colour morph of the common rough woodlouse displaying striking red, orange, and black patterning across their exoskeleton. The name comes from their resemblance to cooled lava flows—dark base colouration with fiery orange and red markings breaking through. Native to Europe and found commonly across Portugal and Spain, P. scaber is one of the hardiest isopod species available. The Lava morph adds genuine visual interest to this already dependable species, giving keepers an attractive option that retains all the bulletproof qualities scaber is known for. A Glimpse Origin: Europe (common across Portugal, Spain, and throughout the continent) Scientific Name: Porcellio scaber "Lava" Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.5-1.7 cm Rarity: Low to Medium Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 21-29°C (70-84°F) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 50-80% (tolerant of variation) Favorite food: Leaf litter, vegetables, decaying wood, mushrooms Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, calcium powder Porcellio scaber Lava: Introduction Porcellio scaber is the classic "rough woodlouse" found throughout Europe and now established across much of the globe. It's one of the first isopod species most people encounter—the grey, bumpy-textured woodlouse hiding under plant pots and logs in gardens everywhere. The species has proven itself incredibly adaptable, surviving in conditions ranging from damp cellars to relatively dry garden walls. The "Lava" morph takes this reliable species and adds visual appeal. The patterning combines dark grey or black base colouration with varying amounts of red and orange—some individuals show subtle hints of warmth, others display bold fiery markings. The effect genuinely resembles volcanic rock, and a colony of mixed individuals creates an attractive display. What makes Lava isopods particularly appealing is that you get the hardiness of standard scaber with actual visual interest. Many beginner-friendly species look fairly plain; Lava offers something you can show people without needing to explain why they should be impressed. They breed well, tolerate a wide range of conditions, and forgive the kind of mistakes that would devastate sensitive species. If you're new to isopods or want a reliable species that actually looks good, Lava scaber tick both boxes. Porcellio scaber Lava: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5-1.7 cm Distinctive rough, textured exoskeleton (the "scaber" means rough in Latin) Colour pattern combines black/dark grey with red and orange markings Pattern intensity and distribution varies between individuals 14 legs for movement Antennae used to sense environment Cannot fully conglobate (roll into a complete ball)—body shape prevents this Segmented body with visible plating Small, manageable size suits various enclosure types The textured exoskeleton distinguishes scaber from smooth-bodied species like P. laevis. Combined with the lava colouration, they have a distinctive appearance. Behaviour Porcellio scaber Lava display typical scaber behaviour—active, adaptable, and easy to observe. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal. They're most active during evening and night hours, though they'll move about during the day in dim conditions. During daylight, expect them to shelter under bark, leaves, and other cover. Movement: They scuttle actively using their 14 legs, navigating over substrate and climbing vertical surfaces without difficulty. They're reasonably quick when disturbed. Environmental response: They seek out appropriate humidity levels, moving between drier and damper areas of enclosures as needed. This self-regulation means they cope with humidity variation better than species requiring precise conditions. Hiding behaviour: They'll find cover under leaves, bark, rocks, and other shelter during the day. Providing hiding spots helps them feel secure and behave naturally. Survival skills: P. scaber has survived as a species by being adaptable. They handle temperature fluctuation, humidity variation, and less-than-perfect conditions better than most isopod species. This hardiness transfers directly to captive care. Feeding: Not picky eaters. They'll consume most organic matter offered and don't require specialised diets. Diet Porcellio scaber Lava eat almost anything organic—they're genuine generalists. Primary foods: Leaf litter (oak, beech, and other hardwoods) Decaying wood Rotting plant matter Bark Vegetables: Carrots Potato Spinach and leafy greens Courgette Sweet potato Fruits (occasional): Apple slices Pear Other soft fruits in moderation Other foods: Mushrooms (they particularly enjoy these) Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Organic vegetable scraps Calcium: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder should be available constantly for healthy moulting. Protein: Regular protein helps prevent cannibalism and supports colony health. Offer fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar protein sources at least twice weekly. Feeding approach: They're not fussy—most organic matter gets consumed. Maintain a base of leaf litter and supplement with vegetables and protein regularly. Their broad diet makes them easy to feed; you don't need specialised foods. Porcellio scaber Lava: Breeding Scaber breed reliably and consistently—one of their strongest points. Breeding rate: Good. Colonies grow steadily under appropriate conditions. They're not explosive breeders like some Porcellio species, but populations build reliably over time. Breeding requirements: Moderate humidity (50-80%) Stable temperatures within preferred range Adequate calcium for gravid females Sufficient protein in diet Basic hiding spots for security Colony growth: Expect steady population increase rather than sudden booms. Colonies grow at a manageable rate, making it easy to track progress and maintain appropriate densities. Tips: Protein availability affects breeding success. Colonies with adequate protein breed more reliably and show less cannibalistic behaviour. Don't neglect the protein supplementation. Porcellio scaber Lava: Habitat Setup Setting up for scaber is straightforward—they're not demanding. Enclosure: Terrariums, plastic containers, or paludariums all work. A cover helps maintain humidity and prevent escapes. Size depends on colony goals—start smaller and upsize as populations grow. Substrate: Use moisture-retaining substrate that supports burrowing: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in Crushed limestone or calcium powder incorporated Leaf litter layered on top Decaying wood pieces Bark pieces for structure Depth of 5-8cm allows burrowing and maintains humidity gradients. Humidity: 50-80%—they tolerate a wide range, which is part of their appeal: Maintain moist substrate without waterlogging Provide moisture gradient (one area damper, one drier) Mist regularly but don't oversaturate They'll move to preferred humidity zones themselves They handle humidity fluctuation better than sensitive species, making them forgiving of imperfect conditions. Ventilation: Medium ventilation. Some airflow prevents stagnation while maintaining adequate humidity. Standard ventilated containers work well. Lighting: They're nocturnal and prefer dim conditions. Avoid harsh direct lighting. Some ambient room light is fine, but don't position enclosures in bright sunlight. Décor and hides: Bark pieces (flat sections and tubes) Leaf litter coverage Cork bark Small pieces of decaying wood Multiple hiding spots distributed throughout Hides make them feel secure and encourage natural behaviour. Temperature: 21-29°C (70-84°F). Room temperature in UK homes works for most of the year. They tolerate reasonable temperature variation—you don't need precise climate control. Bioactive Use Porcellio scaber Lava work well as bioactive cleanup crew. Good applications: Reptile bioactive enclosures Amphibian setups with moderate humidity Planted terrariums Bearded dragon enclosures (specifically mentioned by keepers) General bioactive systems Strengths: Hardy enough to survive varied conditions Breed reliably to maintain populations Tolerate the humidity ranges found in most setups Attractive appearance adds interest Affordable pricing allows generous starter populations Considerations: Prefer moderate humidity—may struggle in very dry or very wet setups Nocturnal, so less visible during the day than some species Suitability Porcellio scaber Lava suit almost any keeper. Ideal for: Complete beginners learning isopod husbandry Bioactive setups needing reliable cleanup crew Keepers wanting hardy species with actual visual appeal Anyone who's killed sensitive species and wants something forgiving Display enclosures where the isopods contribute to aesthetics Those who want to build colonies without constant worry Less suited for: Keepers specifically wanting high-humidity tropical species Those seeking rare collector's species Care level: Very low difficulty. P. scaber is one of the most forgiving isopod species available. Temperature fluctuations, humidity variation, imperfect substrate—they survive conditions that would devastate Cubaris or other sensitive species. The Lava morph retains this hardiness completely. Value: At £12.50 for 10, they offer good value for an attractive, dependable species. You get the visual interest of the lava colouration with the reliability of classic scaber genetics. They're more visually interesting than standard grey scaber at only modest price increase. What to expect: Expect hardy isopods that survive your mistakes while you learn. Expect steady colony growth without drama. Expect attractive colouration that makes the enclosure more interesting to look at. Don't expect the exotic appearance of premium Cubaris—but do expect animals that actually thrive rather than mysteriously dying. For beginners or anyone wanting reliable isopods that look good without demanding precise care, Lava scaber deliver exactly that.