Millipedes For Sale (9)

A Glimpse Origin: Mozambique / South Africa Scientific Name: Centrobolus annulatus Other Common Names: Mozambique Fire Millipede, Red Coral Millipede, Red Ring Millipede Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate Adult Size: 7–10 cm Rarity: Medium — not commonly available in the UK hobby Temperature: Room temperature (18–24°C). No additional heat needed. Humidity: High — substrate should be kept moist to the touch Ventilation: Good cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould Diet: Decaying leaf litter, rotting wood, cucumber, melon, banana, cooked sweetcorn, soft vegetables Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone for calcium Red Fire Millipede: Overview The Red Fire Millipede is one of the more striking smaller millipede species you'll come across. The vibrant red body with contrasting dark banding makes them genuinely eye-catching — they really do look as good as the photos suggest. That said, they're not a giant species. If you're expecting something the size of an African Giant, these aren't it. Adults typically reach around 7–10 cm, so they're a compact millipede, but what they lack in size they make up for in colour. These are native to the forests of Mozambique and South Africa, where they spend their time on the forest floor and climbing through low vegetation. They're actually quite keen climbers compared to some other species, so don't be surprised to find them scaling branches and cork bark in their enclosure rather than burrowing into the substrate. Make sure whatever enclosure you use has a secure lid — they are surprisingly strong for their size. Keeping Them Setup is straightforward. You'll want an enclosure at least 30cm x 30cm x 30cm with a good 10cm depth of moist substrate — a mix of coconut coir, organic compost, and decaying hardwood works well. Layer some leaf litter and rotting wood on top, as this forms a big part of their diet. Add some thick branches or cork bark for climbing, and you're pretty much there. Room temperature is fine for these — no heat mats or lamps required. In fact, overheating them is more of a risk than keeping them too cool. Keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged, and make sure there's decent airflow through the enclosure. Stagnant, overly humid conditions can lead to mould, which isn't great for the millipedes or the enclosure. They'll eat their way through the substrate and leaf litter, but you should also offer fresh vegetables. Cucumber, melon, banana, and cooked sweetcorn tend to go down well. Remove uneaten food before it goes off. A calcium source like cuttlebone or crushed eggshell should always be available to support healthy exoskeleton development through moults. Temperament and Handling These are docile millipedes and can be handled, though they're not the most enthusiastic about it. They'll generally just trundle along slowly across your hands. Like all millipedes, they can secrete a mild defensive liquid if they feel threatened — it's not dangerous but can stain skin temporarily, so wash your hands after handling. They're social and can be kept communally without issues, which is worth bearing in mind if you're thinking of keeping a small group. A Honest Note We want to be upfront — Centrobolus species, including the Red Fire Millipede, don't always have the longest track record in captivity compared to some of the larger, more established species like African Giants. Some keepers have reported shorter lifespans, and they can be a bit more sensitive to getting conditions wrong. They're not difficult to keep by any means, but they're perhaps not as bombproof as a Giant African Millipede. If you keep the humidity right, the ventilation decent, and the diet varied, you should do well with them. Just don't expect them to shrug off neglect the way some hardier species might. Breeding Males can be identified by modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th body segment. They will mate readily in captivity, and females deposit eggs a few inches into the substrate. Eggs typically hatch after around 6 weeks. Leave the young with the adults — the babies will feed on adult frass (droppings), which provides essential gut bacteria they need in their early stages. Juveniles start off pale and develop their red and dark colouration as they grow and moult.

Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus) - also known as the Florida Ivory Millipede - is one of North America's most attractive native millipede species. Named for the distinctive ivory-white colouration along their sides, these millipedes are a brilliant entry point for anyone looking to keep their first millipede, or a solid addition for more experienced keepers wanting a hardy, active species. Ivory Millipedes are detritivores that spend most of their time burrowing through substrate, breaking down organic matter and generally being fascinating to observe. They're one of the larger North American millipede species, reaching around 8-10cm when fully grown, and have a reputation for being docile, easy to handle, and genuinely forgiving of keeper mistakes. A Glimpse Origin: Southeastern USA (Florida, Georgia, South Carolina) Scientific Name: Chicobolus spinigerus Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 10cm (22-25mm currently) Temperature: 20 to 27°C Humidity: 65 to 75% Favourite Foods: Decaying leaves, rotting wood, vegetables, fruits An Overview Chicobolus spinigerus originates from the humid forests, wetlands and coastal areas of the southeastern United States, from Florida through to South Carolina. In the wild, they live beneath rotting logs and within the top layers of leaf litter, where humidity remains consistently high and food is plentiful. These millipedes get their common name from the ivory-white colouration that runs along their lateral edges, contrasting with their darker brown or grey body. There's also a purple colour morph that matures into a striking black and white pattern. Ivory Millipedes are considered a fast-growing species by millipede standards, reaching maturity at around 18 months compared to the 2-5 years typical of many other species. They're prolific breeders once established and can live anywhere from 5 to 10 years with proper care. They make excellent bioactive tank inhabitants and work brilliantly alongside isopods and springtails, helping to break down organic waste and aerate the substrate. Basic Care Ivory Millipedes are docile creatures that rarely show any defensive behaviour beyond curling into a tight spiral when disturbed. They may secrete a mild defensive fluid if handled roughly, so wash your hands after handling. This secretion isn't dangerous but can irritate sensitive skin. These millipedes are primarily nocturnal, so don't be surprised if you see more activity in the evenings. They're social creatures and do well in groups. No aggression between individuals means you can house multiple millipedes together without issue. Substrate depth is crucial - aim for at least 10-15cm to allow for proper burrowing and moulting behaviour. Good ventilation is important to prevent mould build-up, but balance this with maintaining humidity levels. When they moult, they may disappear into the substrate for up to a week. This is completely normal. Feeding Millipedes are unique in that their substrate is their primary food source. This makes getting the substrate right absolutely essential - they'll spend most of their time eating decaying wood and leaves. Beyond the substrate, you can supplement their diet with: Fresh vegetables (cucumber, courgette, carrot, lettuce, squash) Fresh fruits (banana, melon, orange) - sparingly, as high sugar content can cause issues Decaying hardwood leaves (oak, beech) Rotting white wood Fish flakes or pellets (for protein, once a week) Dried shrimp or minnows Calcium is essential for healthy exoskeleton development and successful moulting. Good calcium sources include: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Limestone powder Oyster shell Remove uneaten fresh food before it goes mouldy - usually within 24-48 hours. Appearance and Behaviour Ivory Millipedes have a cylindrical body made up of numerous segments, each bearing two pairs of legs. Adults typically reach 8-10cm in length, though some individuals may grow slightly larger. Their colouration consists of a dark brown or grey body with distinctive ivory-white edges running the length of the animal. This white "skirt" is what gives them their common name. Juveniles may show slightly different colouration that develops as they mature. Males can be identified by examining the 7th body segment - instead of normal legs, males have modified gonopods (reproductive organs) which appear shorter or different from the surrounding legs. Behaviourally, these are calm, slow-moving creatures. They spend most of their time burrowing through substrate and feeding. They're comfortable being handled and will slowly crawl over your hands and arms when given the opportunity. When threatened, they curl into a tight spiral to protect their vulnerable underside. Habitat A minimum enclosure size of 20cm x 20cm x 20cm works for a small group, though bigger is always better. Substrate depth should be at least 10-15cm - deep enough for the millipede to completely burrow beneath the surface when moulting. Maintain good cross-ventilation to prevent mould while keeping humidity adequate. Temperature should be kept between 20-27°C. Room temperature works fine for most UK homes. Avoid using heat mats directly under the substrate. Humidity should stay around 65-75%. Mist lightly every 2-3 days and ensure the lower substrate layers remain moist. Add a thick layer of leaf litter on top of the substrate for shelter and additional food. Cork bark, branches and other climbing surfaces aren't essential but provide enrichment. Substrate Mix The substrate is arguably the most important aspect of millipede husbandry - they eat it, live in it, and moult within it. A good substrate mix should contain: 50% deciduous leaf litter humus (broken-down leaves from oak, beech or similar) 20% partially decomposed leaves 20% crumbled rotting hardwood 5% play sand or bird grit 5% ground cuttlefish bone or limestone powder Important: Avoid any substrates from pine or other coniferous trees. Some keepers recommend avoiding coconut coir as the primary component, as it offers little nutritional value to millipedes. If you do use coir, ensure it's mixed with plenty of decaying organic matter. Keep the substrate moist at the bottom and allow the top layer to dry slightly. This creates a humidity gradient that allows the millipedes to self-regulate.

Scientific Name: Telodeinopus aoutii Common Names: Ghana Speckled Leg Millipede, Giant African Olive Millipede, Long Legged Millipede Family: Spirostreptidae Origin: West Africa — Ghana, Togo, and surrounding regions (also found across central and east Africa) Adult Size: Females up to 18–19 cm; males somewhat smaller, typically 15–16 cm Lifespan: Up to 5 years Sexual Maturity: 2–3 years Difficulty: Easy — one of the best beginner giant millipedes Temperature: 22–28°C Humidity: 70–90% Activity: Semi-arboreal, active climbers, often visible above ground Diet: Leaf litter, rotting wood, vegetables, fruit, moss, lichen, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell for calcium Ghana Speckled Leg Millipedes: Overview If you want a large, impressive millipede that's easy to keep, active, and visible — this is probably the species you're looking for. Telodeinopus aoutii is one of the most popular giant millipedes in the UK hobby, and for good reason. They're a genuinely large species — adult females reach 18–19 cm — with a distinctive dark olive to coppery-brown body and long legs marked with pale and dark speckles (which is where the common name comes from). They're slimmer and longer-legged than something like Archispirostreptus gigas (the African Giant Black), which gives them a very different look and makes them much better climbers. And climbing is what these millipedes do. T. aoutii are semi-arboreal and will spend a lot of time above ground — on branches, cork bark, the sides of the enclosure. Younger animals in particular tend to be very surface-active. For a display enclosure this is a huge advantage, because you'll actually see your millipedes rather than just looking at a box of substrate and wondering if anything lives in it. They're also described by multiple experienced keepers as the "dustbins" of the millipede world. They'll eat almost anything: leaf litter, rotting wood, fruit, vegetables, moss, lichen, fish flakes — they're ravenous and not at all fussy. This makes feeding easy and means they're very forgiving of slight variations in diet compared to more specialised species. Common Name Confusion Worth addressing this directly: Telodeinopus aoutii is sometimes called the "Giant African Olive Millipede" or just "African Olive Millipede." That same common name is also used for Analocostreptus gregorius — a completely different, smaller species from Angola that we also stock. They're not the same animal. T. aoutii is the larger of the two (up to 19 cm vs 10–12 cm for A. gregorius), comes from West Africa rather than Angola, and has a longer lifespan. If you're comparing the two on our site, the scientific names are the reliable way to tell them apart. The product title "Ghana Speckled Leg" is the less ambiguous common name for this species. Enclosure These are large, active millipedes that need a decent amount of space. A minimum enclosure size of 60x40 cm floor space is recommended, with enough height to accommodate deep substrate plus above-ground decoration. A converted aquarium or a large plastic storage box with a gasket lid both work well. Because T. aoutii are climbers, height matters. Provide plenty of vertical elements: cork bark stacked and angled, hardwood branches with lichen, and natural bark pieces. They'll use all of it. Make sure the lid is secure and any ventilation holes are covered with fine mesh — juveniles are small enough to squeeze through surprisingly tight gaps. Ventilation is important. Cross-ventilation (mesh on opposite sides) is ideal. You want airflow without drying the enclosure out. Substrate Substrate depth should be at least the length of your longest millipede — so for adults, that's a minimum of 18–20 cm. This sounds like a lot, but it's essential. Millipedes burrow deep into the substrate to moult, and if they can't get deep enough, the moult can fail. Use a mix of organic topsoil (pesticide-free, fertiliser-free) with plenty of crumbled white rotten hardwood and dried leaf litter mixed in. Oak and beech leaves are ideal. The substrate is a major food source — they eat it — so quality and composition matter. You can add sphagnum moss and mushroom compost to the mix. Layer the top generously with whole leaves, pieces of moss, and additional rotting wood chunks. Keep the substrate consistently moist but not waterlogged. Mist when the top layer starts to dry out. These millipedes come from tropical West African forests with seasonal rain, so they appreciate consistently damp conditions — higher humidity than many other Spirostreptids. If you use a heat mat, place it on the side of the enclosure, above the substrate line — never underneath. A heat mat under the enclosure cooks the substrate from below, which can kill burrowing and moulting millipedes. Temperature and Humidity 22–28°C is the target temperature range. In a typical UK house you'll likely need a heat mat on a thermostat, especially in winter. Room temperature (18–20°C) is on the cool side for this species — they'll survive but won't thrive or breed as readily. Humidity should be kept at 70–90%. This is higher than some other Spirostreptids and is one of the things that distinguishes their care from the smaller A. gregorius. Regular misting and a well-sealed (but ventilated) enclosure will help maintain this. Diet These are genuinely easy to feed. The substrate (leaf litter and rotting wood) is their primary food, and should always be available. On top of that, they'll accept a wide range of supplementary foods and tend to eat enthusiastically. Favourites from keeper experience include cucumber, apple, banana, pear, squash, and courgette. They'll also eat mushrooms, moss, and lichen. Protein is important — offer fish flakes, shrimp pellets, dried mealworms, or similar once or twice a week. Adult females in particular eat a lot when producing eggs, so keep food well stocked. Calcium should always be available. A piece of cuttlebone or crushed limestone in the enclosure covers this. Remove uneaten fresh food within a day or two to prevent mould. Breeding T. aoutii breed well in captivity once conditions are right. They reach sexual maturity at 2–3 years, so this is not a quick process — patience is needed. Some keepers report that simulating seasonal changes (a slight increase in temperature and misting frequency) can help trigger breeding, mimicking the wet season in their native habitat. Females lay eggs in chambers they construct in the substrate. The young hatch small and go through many moults before reaching adult size. Growth in the early stages is relatively fast compared to many millipede species. Be careful during substrate maintenance — eggs and small juveniles are easily missed and accidentally destroyed. Avoid full substrate changes where possible; instead, spot clean and top up with fresh leaf litter, rotting wood, and substrate as needed. Handling Ghana Speckled Legs are calm and easy to handle once they're used to it. Lift them gently, never pull, and let them walk onto your hand. They may curl into a defensive coil if startled, and like all millipedes they can secrete a foul-smelling defensive liquid that may irritate skin. This is more common with animals that aren't accustomed to handling — individuals that are regularly handled tend to be much more relaxed. Wash your hands after handling and don't touch your eyes. The secretion isn't dangerous at the quantities these millipedes produce, but it can stain skin temporarily and cause irritation on sensitive areas. Who Are These For? Pretty much anyone interested in keeping millipedes. At £10 each, with easy care requirements, a varied and unfussy diet, an active and visible temperament, and a lifespan of up to 5 years, T. aoutii tick most of the boxes for both first-time millipede keepers and experienced hobbyists. They're one of the most commonly recommended beginner giant species in the UK hobby, and that reputation is well earned. The only real requirement beyond basic care is the enclosure size — these are large millipedes that need deep substrate and vertical climbing space. A small faunarium won't cut it. If you're prepared to set up a properly sized enclosure, everything else is straightforward.

A Glimpse Scientific Name: Analocostreptus gregorius (formerly Spirostreptus gregorius, also previously sold as Spirostreptus sp. 2) Family: Spirostreptidae Origin: Angola (also recorded in the Democratic Republic of the Congo) Adult Size: 10–12 cm Lifespan: 1–2 years Difficulty: Easy — one of the most beginner-friendly tropical millipedes available Temperature: 20–27°C Humidity: 65–75% Activity: Mostly nocturnal, but semi-arboreal and often visible on the surface during the day Diet: Leaf litter, rotting wood, vegetables, fruit, lichen, moss, fish flakes Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell for calcium African Olive Millipedes: Overview This is one of the best beginner millipedes you can get, and it's arguably more interesting to watch than the species that usually get recommended first. Analocostreptus gregorius is a medium-sized Spirostreptid from Angola — a slender, fast-moving millipede that reaches around 10–12 cm as an adult. The common name comes from their colouration: a distinctive olive-green to olive-brown that you don't often see in captive millipedes. They're a genuinely good-looking species, and the slim body shape gives them a quite different appearance to the chunky, rounded profile of something like an African Giant. What really sets them apart from a lot of millipedes, though, is their behaviour. Most millipedes spend the majority of their time buried in the substrate, which means you set up a nice enclosure and then rarely see anything in it. African Olives are different — they're semi-arboreal and tend to stay on the surface, climb on cork bark and branches, and generally be visible far more than most species. They're also noticeably fast movers, which makes them more engaging to watch than the slow-plodding giants. For a display enclosure, they're hard to beat. A Note on the Name The taxonomy of this species has been through a few changes. You'll see it sold under three names: Analocostreptus gregorius (the current accepted name, reclassified in 2023), Spirostreptus gregorius (the previous name, still widely used in the trade), and occasionally Spirostreptus sp. 2. They're all the same animal. There's also a common name issue worth knowing about. "African Olive Millipede" is used for this species, but it's more commonly associated with Telodeinopus aoutii — a completely different, much larger millipede. If you're Googling care information, make sure you're looking at the right species. The scientific name is the reliable way to check. Care is broadly similar for both, but they're different animals with different adult sizes and slightly different requirements. Enclosure and Substrate A plastic storage box or faunarium works well. These are medium-sized millipedes, so something around 30x20cm with a secure lid is fine for a small group. Because they climb, a bit of height is useful — and make sure the lid fits properly, because juveniles in particular are good at finding gaps. Substrate depth matters. It should be at least as deep as the length of your longest millipede, because when they moult they burrow down into the substrate and stay buried for about a week while their new exoskeleton hardens. If the substrate is too shallow, they can't moult safely. Use a mix of organic topsoil (pesticide-free, fertiliser-free) with plenty of crumbled rotting hardwood and dried leaf litter mixed through — oak and beech leaves are both good. The substrate is a major part of their diet, so quality matters. Add a layer of whole leaves on top, along with pieces of cork bark for hides and climbing surfaces. A few branches or twigs at angles give them something to climb on and makes the enclosure more interesting to watch. Keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged. Mist as needed. These are reasonably adaptable on humidity — 65–75% is the target range, but they're not as fussy as some tropical species. Good ventilation is important. A few holes in the lid or a mesh vent section will do. You want fresh air moving through without drying things out too quickly. Temperature 20–27°C. In a typical UK house, you'll probably be at the lower end of this without supplemental heating. A heat mat on a thermostat attached to one side of the enclosure will bring things into the ideal range, particularly in winter. They'll tolerate normal room temperature, but warmer conditions tend to result in more activity and better breeding. Diet The substrate itself — leaf litter and rotting wood — forms the foundation of their diet and should always be available. On top of that, African Olives are good eaters that accept a wide range of supplementary foods. They seem particularly fond of apple and cucumber, but will also take carrot, courgette, melon, and other soft vegetables and fruit. Some keepers offer insect jelly as a treat. Protein should be offered once or twice a week — fish flakes or fish food pellets work well. Calcium is important for healthy exoskeleton development. Keep a piece of cuttlebone, some crushed limestone, or oyster shell in the enclosure at all times. This is especially important for growing juveniles. Remove uneaten fresh food within a day or two to prevent mould. Breeding African Olives breed readily in captivity and are considered prolific once established. Growth rate is on the slower side — juveniles take a long time to reach full adult size, passing through multiple moults over many months. Each moult adds body segments and additional pairs of legs. Be careful when doing substrate changes: millipede eggs and small juveniles can be hidden in the substrate and are easily missed or crushed. If you're refreshing substrate, do it gradually and check carefully through the old material before discarding it. The same applies during moulting — a moulting millipede buried in the substrate has a soft exoskeleton and is extremely vulnerable to being accidentally squashed. Cohabitation African Olives can be kept alongside certain isopod species, which can help with maintaining the enclosure by consuming mould and waste. However, avoid housing them with aggressively prolific isopods like Porcellionides pruinosus or Porcellio laevis, which can overwhelm an enclosure and potentially disturb moulting millipedes. Something like Cubaris species tend to coexist well. Don't keep millipedes with cockroaches. Cockroaches will eat millipede eggs, and both groups produce a lot of frass, which means you'd need a very large enclosure and more frequent substrate changes. Handling and Defence African Olives are generally calm and easy to handle. Lift them carefully — never pull or pinch — and let them crawl onto your hand. Like all millipedes, they can secrete defensive chemicals when stressed, which may stain or mildly irritate skin. Wash your hands after handling and don't touch your eyes. Being Realistic At £10 each, these are one of the most affordable tropical millipedes available, and they're one of the easiest to keep. If you've never kept a millipede before, this is a genuinely solid starting point — arguably better than the African Giants that most beginners gravitate towards, since Olives are more active, more visible, easier to breed, and more tolerant of minor care mistakes. The main thing to manage expectations on is lifespan. These are not long-lived millipedes — 1 to 2 years is typical. That's considerably shorter than some of the larger Spirostreptids. The trade-off is that they breed well, so a well-maintained colony sustains itself, but individual animals won't be with you for years. If longevity is important to you, this is worth knowing upfront.

A Glimpse Common Name: Flat-backed millipede Scientific Name: Polydesmus sp. (most likely P. angustus, though several very similar UK species exist that can only be reliably separated under a microscope) Family: Polydesmidae Origin: UK native — found throughout Britain in woodland, gardens, compost heaps, and leaf litter Adult Size: 15–25 mm long, approximately 4 mm wide Lifespan: 2–3 years Difficulty: Easy Temperature: Room temperature — no additional heating required Humidity: 70–85% — keep the substrate consistently damp Diet: Decaying leaf litter, rotting wood, dead plant matter, soft fruit and vegetables Supplements: Cuttlebone or crushed limestone for calcium; occasional fish flakes for protein What Are These? These are flat-backed millipedes — small, native UK species from the genus Polydesmus. If you've ever turned over a log or dug through a compost heap and seen a small, flat, brownish millipede with what looks like ridged armour plating, you've probably already met one of these. They're not flashy. They're not tropical. They don't grow to any impressive size. What they are is a genuinely interesting little millipede that's easy to keep, does well at room temperature without any special heating, and makes a surprisingly good micro-pet or bioactive addition. The body shape is the most distinctive thing about them — unlike the cylindrical body you'd see on most millipedes, Polydesmus have a noticeably flattened profile with each body segment extending sideways into a ridge. This gives them a very different look to something like an African Giant or a Thai Rainbow, and it's an adaptation for squeezing through leaf litter and soil. They have around 20 body segments and longer antennae and legs relative to their body size than most other millipedes. Colouration is typically orangey-brown to dark brown, sometimes with paler legs. It's understated — these are millipedes that are built for camouflage on the forest floor, not for standing out. Why Keep Them? These appeal to a slightly different keeper than the big tropical species. If you're interested in native UK invertebrates, if you want a small millipede colony that doesn't need a heat mat or careful temperature management, or if you want a bioactive clean-up crew for a temperate terrarium, Polydesmus fit the brief. They're also good for anyone who finds the idea of millipedes interesting but doesn't want to commit to the substrate requirements and temperature management that tropical species demand. These are about as low-maintenance as millipedes get — which makes sense, because they've evolved to live outdoors in the British climate. For bioactive setups housing UK native reptiles or amphibians (slow worms, common lizards, newts), native millipedes like Polydesmus are arguably a more appropriate clean-up crew choice than tropical species, since they're already adapted to the same temperature and humidity range as your main inhabitants. Enclosure and Substrate A small plastic container or faunarium is fine — these are tiny millipedes and don't need much space. A container around 20x15cm with a secure lid will comfortably house a small group. For substrate, use a mix of organic topsoil (pesticide-free) with plenty of crumbled decaying leaf litter and soft rotting wood mixed in. The substrate is their primary food source, so it matters. Oak leaves work well, as do beech. The wood should be well-rotted — soft enough to crumble in your fingers. Add a layer of whole leaves on top for cover and additional food. Keep the substrate consistently damp but not waterlogged. Mist as needed. These millipedes come from damp woodland environments — they'll dehydrate if things dry out. Good ventilation is still important even in a damp enclosure. A few holes in the lid or a small mesh vent will do — you don't need the same level of cross-ventilation as tropical species, but stagnant air encourages mould. No heating is required. These are native UK millipedes and are comfortable at normal room temperature. They'll tolerate a wide range — they survive British winters outdoors, after all. If anything, they prefer it on the cooler side compared to tropical species. Diet Polydesmus are detritivores — their main food is decaying plant matter, and in captivity the substrate itself (leaf litter and rotting wood) provides the bulk of their diet. Keep the enclosure well stocked with leaves and they'll mostly feed themselves. You can supplement with small pieces of soft fruit and vegetables. They reportedly enjoy strawberries, cucumber, and similar soft foods. Remove uneaten fresh food after a day to prevent mould. Offer a calcium source — a small piece of cuttlebone or some crushed limestone in the enclosure. A few fish flakes or a small piece of fish food every week or two provides extra protein, though they're less demanding on the protein front than many isopod species. Defence Mechanism — Worth Knowing Like other flat-backed millipedes, Polydesmus can secrete defensive chemicals from glands along their body when they feel threatened. These secretions contain hydrogen cyanide compounds — which sounds alarming, but at this scale it amounts to a faintly almond-smelling fluid. It's not dangerous to humans in the quantities a 2cm millipede can produce, but it's worth being aware of. Wash your hands after handling, don't touch your eyes, and keep them away from small children and other pets as a sensible precaution. This is standard advice for all millipedes — even the big tropical species produce similar defensive secretions. Breeding Polydesmus mate in late spring and early summer in the wild. Females lay small clusters of eggs in the soil or leaf litter. The young hatch with only a few pairs of legs and add more with each moult as they grow. Growth is slow — it takes multiple moults over a long period before they reach full adult size. In captivity, if conditions are right (damp substrate, plenty of food, undisturbed), breeding should happen without any special intervention. Keep the enclosure moist and well-stocked with leaf litter and leave them to it. A Note on Identification The product is listed as Polydesmus sp. rather than a specific species, and that's actually fair — there are several Polydesmus species native to the UK (P. angustus, P. coriaceus, P. denticulatus, P. inconstans) that look extremely similar to the naked eye. Reliably telling them apart requires examining the gonopods of adult males under magnification. For keeping purposes, it doesn't matter — care is identical across the genus.

A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (eastern Isaan region), also introduced to parts of Vietnam Scientific Name: Atopochetus spinimargo Related Species: Cousin of the Vietnamese Rainbow Millipede (Atopochetus dollfusii) Difficulty Level: Easy Adult Size: 8–10 cm Rarity: Uncommon in the UK hobby Temperature: 20–27°C Humidity: 65–75% — adaptable, not overly fussy Ventilation: Moderate Diet: Decaying leaf litter, rotting white wood, lichen, moss, vegetables, fruit, fish flakes Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or eggshell for calcium Thai Rainbow Millipede: Overview The Thai Rainbow Millipede is one of the more approachable species in the Atopochetus genus. It's a smaller millipede — adults top out at around 8–10 cm — but what it lacks in size it makes up for in colour. The body has contrasting orange and grey-green banding that catches the light nicely, especially under bright conditions. They're not as dramatically vivid as their Vietnamese cousin (A. dollfusii), but they've got a subtle, attractive look of their own. They originate from the Isaan region of eastern Thailand, which is characterised by lush river landscapes and dense, humid rainforest. In captivity, they're one of the more forgiving species to keep, and they breed readily, making them a solid choice if you're newer to millipedes or want something that will actually establish a colony without too much hassle. Keeping Them The enclosure doesn't need to be enormous given their smaller size — a container with a floor space of around 30 x 30 cm will work for a small group. The key thing is substrate depth. These millipedes burrow down into the substrate to moult, and they'll need to disappear fully, so the substrate should be at least as deep as the length of an adult — roughly 10 cm minimum. A mix of organic compost, coconut coir, and crumbled rotten wood works well. Top it off with a generous layer of leaf litter and some pieces of white rotten wood. Temperature-wise, they're not demanding. Room temperature in most UK homes (around 20–24°C) will be fine for much of the year, and they'll tolerate up to 27°C comfortably. You likely won't need a heat mat unless your house runs particularly cold in winter. Humidity should be moderate — keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged. They're more adaptable than a lot of tropical species in this respect and don't need it dripping wet. One thing worth noting is that these are reasonably keen climbers. Their legs are a bit longer than you'd expect for a burrowing millipede, and they'll make use of cork bark, branches, and other climbing opportunities in the enclosure. Providing some vertical elements will keep them more active and visible. Diet This is one of the easier species to feed. Their main diet is decaying leaf litter and white rotten wood, which they'll graze on constantly. But unlike some specialist feeders, A. spinimargo will also accept a good range of supplementary foods — vegetables, fruit, lichen, moss, fish flakes, and even insect jelly. Carrot sticks seem to be a particular favourite based on what breeders report. This dietary flexibility is a big part of what makes them beginner-friendly. As always, keep a calcium source available in the enclosure — cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or eggshell. This supports healthy exoskeleton development, especially during moults. Temperament These are calm, easy-going millipedes that can be handled without drama. Younger individuals tend to be more active at dawn and dusk, but as they mature they seem to gain confidence and will happily wander around during the day too, which is a nice bonus for display purposes. Like all millipedes, they can produce a mild defensive secretion if they feel threatened — it's harmless but worth washing your hands afterwards as a matter of habit. They're social animals and do well in groups. They can even be kept alongside certain other terrarium inhabitants like snails, if that's your kind of setup. Breeding One of the strong points of this species. A. spinimargo breeds readily in captivity and is considered prolific compared to many other millipede species. They can start reproducing from around 10–12 months of age. Eggs are deposited in the substrate, and the young are independent from hatching. Just make sure the substrate is deep enough for moulting and that there's always plenty of leaf litter and wood available for the growing colony to feed on. Being Realistic There's not a huge amount to warn about with this species, which is part of their appeal. They're small, they eat a varied diet, they breed well, and they're not fussy about exact humidity or temperature. If there's a downside, it's that their colouring is more understated than some of the flashier millipede species — if you're after something that screams colour from across the room, something like a Red Fire Millipede might be more your thing. But for a reliable, easy-to-keep species that will actually thrive and breed in captivity, these are hard to fault. There's also some taxonomic confusion in the hobby around "Thai Rainbow" millipedes — you'll sometimes see Atopochetus caudulanus and even Apeuthes sp. sold under the same common name. A. spinimargo is its own distinct species, so if you're specifically after this one, make sure you're buying from someone who knows what they're selling.

A Glimpse Origin: West Africa (Benin, Togo, Nigeria, Cameroon) Scientific Name: Pelmatojulus ligulatus Other Common Names: Amber Banded Millipede, Yellow-banded Millipede, Tiger Millipede Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate — a little experience helps Adult Size: Up to 14–16 cm Rarity: Medium Temperature: 24–28°C (75–82°F) Humidity: High — around 80–90% Ventilation: Moderate — enough to prevent mould, not so much that it dries out Diet: White rotten wood, decaying leaf litter, lichen. Vegetables and fruit are rarely accepted. Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone for calcium Amber Millipede: Overview The Amber Millipede is a chunky, glossy species from the secondary rainforests of West Africa. The alternating amber-orange and dark brown banding across the body gives them a really distinctive look, especially under decent lighting where you can appreciate how glossy they are. They're a solid medium-to-large millipede, reaching around 14–16 cm as adults with a good bit of width to them — noticeably bulkier than something like a Centrobolus species. They're sometimes confused with the closely related Pelmatojulus excisus (Giant Fire Millipede), and to be fair the two do look quite similar. The ligulatus tends to have more of an amber/yellow tone to its banding rather than the redder colouring of the excisus, but they're from the same genus and have very similar care requirements. The Important Bit: Diet This is where Amber Millipedes differ from a lot of the more commonly kept species, and it's worth being upfront about it. These are dietary specialists. Their main food source is white rotten wood (the soft, crumbly, well-decayed hardwood you find on the forest floor) and decaying leaf litter. That's what they eat — a lot of it, and consistently. Unlike some millipedes that will happily munch on cucumber, sweet potato, and banana alongside their substrate, P. ligulatus will largely ignore fresh vegetables and fruit. Some keepers report the odd nibble, but don't rely on it. You need to make sure you always have a good supply of well-rotted hardwood and leaf litter available. If you can keep that stocked up, they're not difficult to care for. If you can't, they'll struggle. It's as simple as that really. Lichen is also appreciated and can be offered on bark or branches. A calcium source like cuttlebone or crushed eggshell should be available at all times. Keeping Them They do well in a plastic or glass enclosure with a minimum floor space of around 30 x 40 cm. Substrate depth is important — at least 10 cm of a moist mix of organic compost, coconut coir, and crumbled rotten wood. Top this with a generous layer of leaf litter. Temperature should be kept between 24–28°C. In most UK homes you'll likely need a heat mat on a thermostat during cooler months to keep them within range, though in summer you may be fine without one. Humidity needs to be high, around 80–90%, so mist regularly and keep the substrate moist but not sodden. These aren't big climbers, so you don't need to worry too much about height or climbing branches. They're much more interested in burrowing into and foraging through the substrate. That said, cork bark, coconut shells, or pieces of bark laid flat make good hides and are appreciated. They can be kept in groups without issues, and are generally social and tolerant of each other provided there's enough space and food to go around. Temperament and Handling Amber Millipedes are docile and slow-moving, and can be handled. They're not skittish and will generally just plod along calmly. As with all millipedes, they can secrete a defensive liquid if stressed, so wash your hands after handling. They're not aggressive in any way — this is just a standard millipede defence mechanism. Breeding P. ligulatus can be bred in captivity, though they're slow to mature — reaching sexual maturity at around 2 years of age. Males can be identified by the presence of sole pads on the tarsi (feet). Eggs are deposited in the substrate, and the young should be left with the adults. They'll feed on the same decaying wood and leaf litter as the adults, so just make sure there's plenty available. Being Realistic These are a rewarding species to keep, but they're probably not the best pick if you're brand new to millipedes. The main reason is the dietary requirements — if you're used to keeping species that eat vegetables and fruit, the switch to sourcing and maintaining a supply of well-rotted wood and leaves takes a bit of planning. It's not hard, but it does require you to think ahead. If you've kept other millipedes before and you're comfortable with providing a substrate-heavy diet, you'll get on fine with these.

Spirobolellus sp. "Maui" (Hawaiian Glow Millipede) is a small millipede from Hawaii that fluoresces bright blue-green under UV light. This isn't bioluminescence—they don't glow on their own in the dark—but when you shine a UV torch on them, they light up like tiny neon signs. Under normal lighting they're attractively patterned in black and white stripes, earning them the alternative name "Hawaiian Striped Millipede" or "Maui Skunk Stripe." They're small, easy to keep, and breed readily in captivity, making them a good choice for keepers wanting something a bit unusual. A Glimpse Origin: Hawaii (Maui) Scientific Name: Spirobolellus sp. "Maui" (possibly Spirobolellus immigrans) Common Names: Hawaiian Glow Millipede, Hawaiian Striped Millipede, Maui Skunk Stripe Millipede Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.5-2.5cm (approximately 1 inch) Rarity: Uncommon in the UK hobby Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-85% Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, substrate Supplements: Calcium, protein (fish flakes), occasional vegetables Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Introduction The main attraction here is the UV fluorescence. When exposed to ultraviolet light, these millipedes emit a bright blue-green glow. The fluorescence comes from compounds in their exoskeleton—many millipedes share this trait to varying degrees, but this species shows it particularly well. A cheap UV torch is all you need to see the effect. In normal light, they're black and white striped—a clean, attractive pattern that makes them easy to spot against dark substrate. The contrast between their unassuming daytime appearance and their glowing nighttime look is part of the appeal. These millipedes originate from Hawaii, with the captive stock coming from Maui. They're a small species—adults reach about 2.5cm (roughly an inch)—so they don't need large enclosures and work well in smaller vivariums or terrariums. They're also described as prolific breeders, so starting with a small group can lead to a self-sustaining colony. Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 2-2.5cm (around 1 inch) in length Cylindrical, segmented body typical of round millipedes (order Spirobolida) Black and white striped pattern along the body segments Multiple leg pairs along body length Fluoresces bright blue-green under UV light Antennae for environmental sensing Smooth, rounded body profile The UV fluorescence is the standout feature. The glow is brightest on the legs and body segments. Under normal lighting, the black and white striping gives them a zebra-like appearance—attractive in its own right. Behaviour Hawaiian Glow Millipedes behave like most small millipedes. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal or crepuscular. They're more active in evening and night hours, which happens to be ideal for UV viewing sessions. Movement: Slow and deliberate. They're not escape artists but will explore their enclosure methodically. Burrowing: They spend time beneath the substrate surface and in gaps between layers of decaying wood. Providing adequate substrate depth and rotting hardwood gives them places to retreat. Defensive behaviour: When disturbed, they curl into a spiral and may secrete defensive compounds. These secretions can leave yellow-orange stains on skin and have an unpleasant odour. Wash hands after handling or wear gloves. Social behaviour: Peaceful. Groups coexist without aggression and can be kept communally. Hiding: They favour gaps between bark and wood, burrowing into substrate, and hiding under leaf litter during inactive periods. Diet Hawaiian Glow Millipedes are detritivores that get most of their nutrition from their substrate. Primary foods: Decaying hardwood (oak, beech) Decomposed leaf litter Substrate itself (which should contain rotted organic matter) Supplementary foods: Fish flakes or pellets (protein source) Soft vegetables (courgette, carrot, cucumber) Soft fruits in moderation Moss Calcium: Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder. Like other arthropods, they need calcium for exoskeleton health. Feeding approach: Most of their nutrition comes from the substrate and decaying wood—this is their main food source rather than supplementary items. Keep the enclosure stocked with rotting hardwood and leaf litter. Offer protein supplements weekly and vegetables occasionally. Remove uneaten fresh foods before they mould. Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Breeding These millipedes breed readily in captivity and are described as prolific when conditions are right. Breeding basics: Provide stable, warm conditions (24-26°C optimal) Maintain high humidity (70-85%) Adequate substrate depth for egg-laying Plentiful food sources (decaying wood, leaves) Development: One keeper reported going from 6 individuals to 25 in 3.5 months, indicating quick reproduction under good conditions. Offspring start small and gain segments with each moult. Tips: Maintain stable conditions and plenty of decaying organic matter. Given their prolific nature, population growth can be fairly rapid once established. The small adult size means even a modestly-sized enclosure can support a good-sized colony. Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Habitat Setup Their small size and forgiving nature make setup straightforward. Enclosure: Small to medium containers work well. Plastic tubs with limited ventilation suit them—they need humidity retention. Their 2.5cm adult size means they don't need large spaces. A group of 10-15 can live comfortably in a 20x20x20cm enclosure. Substrate: The substrate is their primary food source, so quality matters. Use a mix containing: Decomposed hardwood (oak, beech—rotted and crushed) Decomposed leaf litter Forest humus Sphagnum moss for moisture retention Avoid substrates based primarily on topsoil or peat without rotted wood and leaves—these lack the nutrition millipedes need. The substrate should be moist to the touch but not waterlogged. Depth of 8-10cm allows burrowing and egg-laying. Humidity: 70-85%—they appreciate moist conditions: Keep substrate consistently moist Mist regularly Sphagnum moss patches retain moisture Limited ventilation maintains humidity Ventilation: Low. These prefer humid conditions, so excessive airflow works against them. A few small holes in the lid or minimal screen area is sufficient. If substrate dries out within a few days, reduce ventilation. Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F). Room temperature in UK homes works well. Some sources suggest 24-26°C (76-78°F) as optimal. They don't need supplemental heating in most homes. Décor and hides: Pieces of rotting hardwood with bark attached They particularly enjoy hiding between wood and its peeling bark Leaf litter on the surface Cork bark pieces Moss patches UV lighting: A UV torch for viewing—not for permanent lighting. The fluorescence is purely for your entertainment; the millipedes don't benefit from or need UV exposure. Keep viewing sessions brief. Bioactive Use These millipedes work well in bioactive setups. Good applications: Tropical bioactive enclosures High-humidity vivariums Cleanup crews alongside isopods and springtails Display terrariums (especially if you enjoy UV viewing) One seller notes they're "perfect for eating mould in terrariums alongside isopods and springtails"—they contribute to the decomposer community. Considerations: Small size makes them vulnerable to predation by larger inhabitants Need consistent moisture—not suited to arid setups Most visible at night or under UV light Tank Mates They're peaceful and coexist well with appropriate companions. Compatible: Isopods Springtails Other small, peaceful millipedes Small snails Caution: Larger predatory invertebrates may eat them Many reptiles and amphibians will prey on them (acceptable if intended as food, problematic if you want a permanent population) Their small size is the main consideration—they're potential prey for anything large enough to eat them. Suitability Hawaiian Glow Millipedes suit keepers looking for easy, interesting invertebrates with a visual gimmick. Good choice for: Beginners wanting something beyond standard cleanup crews Anyone interested in UV-reactive invertebrates Keepers with smaller enclosures Those wanting low-maintenance species People who enjoy showing off their invertebrates (the UV effect impresses visitors) Less suited for: Arid or low-humidity setups Enclosures with predators Those wanting large, impressive millipede species Care level: Easy. They're forgiving, breed readily, and don't demand precise conditions. Keep them moist, provide decaying wood and leaves, maintain warmth, and they'll thrive. One of the easier millipede species to keep successfully. Value: At £6 each (with bulk pricing available), they're affordable. The UV fluorescence adds novelty that you don't get from most invertebrates at this price. Buying several to start a breeding group makes sense given their prolific nature. What to expect: Expect small, peaceful millipedes that spend much of their time hidden in substrate and rotting wood. Expect the UV effect to genuinely impress—it's striking. Expect easy care and, given time, population growth. Don't expect daytime visibility or large specimens. Their appeal lies in their fluorescence, their attractive striping, their easy breeding, and their low-maintenance requirements. At this price point, they're worth a try for anyone curious about keeping millipedes.