Millipedes are one of the more underrated corners of the invertebrate hobby. They're quiet, they don't bite, they're fascinating to watch, and most species are genuinely straightforward to care for once you understand the basics. The key thing with millipedes — and this catches some people out — is that their substrate is their main food source. Getting the substrate right matters more than almost anything else, so if you're new to millipede keeping, take the time to read the individual product descriptions where we've covered diet and setup in detail for each species.

Everything on this page is captive-bred stock shipped from the UK via Royal Mail Next Day by 1pm (Monday to Thursday only), backed by our live arrival guarantee with a 20% overcount on every order.

Shop by experience level

Beginner-friendly: Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus), Thai Rainbow (Atopochetus spinimargo), Hawaiian Glow (Spirobolellus sp.), African Olive (Analocostreptus gregorius) and Burmese Beauty (Spirostreptus sp.) — hardy, forgiving, and breed well without demanding precise conditions.

Giant species: African Giant Chocolate (Ophistreptus guineensis, up to 26 cm) and Ghana Speckled Leg (Telodeinopus aoutii, up to 19 cm) — impressive, long-lived display species that need substantial enclosures with deep substrate.

Visually striking, requires a bit of experience: Red Fire / Red Ring (Centrobolus annulatus) and Amber Millipede (Pelmatojulus ligulatus). The Amber in particular is a dietary specialist — it won't eat fruit and veg like other species and relies almost entirely on well-rotted hardwood and leaf litter, so plan your food supply before buying.

Native UK: Polydesmus sp. (flat-backed millipede) — small, room-temperature species native to British woodland. A genuinely good bioactive cleanup choice for UK native reptile or amphibian setups where tropical species would mismatch the temperature range.

Rare in culture: Delta Banded Millipede (Ophistreptus sp.) — a vivid species that hasn't been widely available in the UK since around 2021. If you recognise it or have information on it, we'd genuinely like to hear from you.

Common questions

Do millipedes bite?
No. Millipedes have no biting mouthparts capable of harming humans. If you've read scare stories about "cyanide-producing millipedes," that refers to a faintly almond-smelling defensive secretion that some species (flat-backed millipedes in particular) release when stressed. Harmless in the quantities a millipede can produce, but wash your hands after handling and don't rub your eyes.

Why does substrate matter so much for millipedes?
Because they eat it. Unlike most pet invertebrates, a millipede's enclosure substrate isn't just bedding — it's their primary food source. A good substrate is a mix of organic topsoil, crumbled white-rotted hardwood (oak, beech), aged leaf litter, a little sand or bird grit, and a calcium source. A pure coco-coir "bedding" will slowly starve them.

How deep does the substrate need to be?
At minimum, the length of the longest millipede in the enclosure — they burrow down to moult, and if they can't get deep enough the moult fails and kills them. For a 25 cm African Chocolate that means a 25 cm minimum depth of substrate. Factor that into enclosure planning.

Do I need a heat mat?
Depends on the species. Native Polydesmus and most of the beginner tropicals sit happily at UK room temperature. The larger African species (Ophistreptus, Telodeinopus, Pelmatojulus) do want 24–28°C and usually need a heat mat on a thermostat, especially in winter. Critical: always place the mat on the side of the enclosure above substrate level — never underneath. A mat under a burrowing mill