Millipedes For Sale (6)

A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (eastern Isaan region), also introduced to parts of Vietnam Scientific Name: Atopochetus spinimargo Related Species: Cousin of the Vietnamese Rainbow Millipede (Atopochetus dollfusii) Difficulty Level: Easy Adult Size: 8–10 cm Rarity: Uncommon in the UK hobby Temperature: 20–27°C Humidity: 65–75% — adaptable, not overly fussy Ventilation: Moderate Diet: Decaying leaf litter, rotting white wood, lichen, moss, vegetables, fruit, fish flakes Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or eggshell for calcium Thai Rainbow Millipede: Overview The Thai Rainbow Millipede is one of the more approachable species in the Atopochetus genus. It's a smaller millipede — adults top out at around 8–10 cm — but what it lacks in size it makes up for in colour. The body has contrasting orange and grey-green banding that catches the light nicely, especially under bright conditions. They're not as dramatically vivid as their Vietnamese cousin (A. dollfusii), but they've got a subtle, attractive look of their own. They originate from the Isaan region of eastern Thailand, which is characterised by lush river landscapes and dense, humid rainforest. In captivity, they're one of the more forgiving species to keep, and they breed readily, making them a solid choice if you're newer to millipedes or want something that will actually establish a colony without too much hassle. Keeping Them The enclosure doesn't need to be enormous given their smaller size — a container with a floor space of around 30 x 30 cm will work for a small group. The key thing is substrate depth. These millipedes burrow down into the substrate to moult, and they'll need to disappear fully, so the substrate should be at least as deep as the length of an adult — roughly 10 cm minimum. A mix of organic compost, coconut coir, and crumbled rotten wood works well. Top it off with a generous layer of leaf litter and some pieces of white rotten wood. Temperature-wise, they're not demanding. Room temperature in most UK homes (around 20–24°C) will be fine for much of the year, and they'll tolerate up to 27°C comfortably. You likely won't need a heat mat unless your house runs particularly cold in winter. Humidity should be moderate — keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged. They're more adaptable than a lot of tropical species in this respect and don't need it dripping wet. One thing worth noting is that these are reasonably keen climbers. Their legs are a bit longer than you'd expect for a burrowing millipede, and they'll make use of cork bark, branches, and other climbing opportunities in the enclosure. Providing some vertical elements will keep them more active and visible. Diet This is one of the easier species to feed. Their main diet is decaying leaf litter and white rotten wood, which they'll graze on constantly. But unlike some specialist feeders, A. spinimargo will also accept a good range of supplementary foods — vegetables, fruit, lichen, moss, fish flakes, and even insect jelly. Carrot sticks seem to be a particular favourite based on what breeders report. This dietary flexibility is a big part of what makes them beginner-friendly. As always, keep a calcium source available in the enclosure — cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or eggshell. This supports healthy exoskeleton development, especially during moults. Temperament These are calm, easy-going millipedes that can be handled without drama. Younger individuals tend to be more active at dawn and dusk, but as they mature they seem to gain confidence and will happily wander around during the day too, which is a nice bonus for display purposes. Like all millipedes, they can produce a mild defensive secretion if they feel threatened — it's harmless but worth washing your hands afterwards as a matter of habit. They're social animals and do well in groups. They can even be kept alongside certain other terrarium inhabitants like snails, if that's your kind of setup. Breeding One of the strong points of this species. A. spinimargo breeds readily in captivity and is considered prolific compared to many other millipede species. They can start reproducing from around 10–12 months of age. Eggs are deposited in the substrate, and the young are independent from hatching. Just make sure the substrate is deep enough for moulting and that there's always plenty of leaf litter and wood available for the growing colony to feed on. Being Realistic There's not a huge amount to warn about with this species, which is part of their appeal. They're small, they eat a varied diet, they breed well, and they're not fussy about exact humidity or temperature. If there's a downside, it's that their colouring is more understated than some of the flashier millipede species — if you're after something that screams colour from across the room, something like a Red Fire Millipede might be more your thing. But for a reliable, easy-to-keep species that will actually thrive and breed in captivity, these are hard to fault. There's also some taxonomic confusion in the hobby around "Thai Rainbow" millipedes — you'll sometimes see Atopochetus caudulanus and even Apeuthes sp. sold under the same common name. A. spinimargo is its own distinct species, so if you're specifically after this one, make sure you're buying from someone who knows what they're selling.

A Glimpse Origin: West Africa (Benin, Togo, Nigeria, Cameroon) Scientific Name: Pelmatojulus ligulatus Other Common Names: Amber Banded Millipede, Yellow-banded Millipede, Tiger Millipede Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate — a little experience helps Adult Size: Up to 14–16 cm Rarity: Medium Temperature: 24–28°C (75–82°F) Humidity: High — around 80–90% Ventilation: Moderate — enough to prevent mould, not so much that it dries out Diet: White rotten wood, decaying leaf litter, lichen. Vegetables and fruit are rarely accepted. Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone for calcium Amber Millipede: Overview The Amber Millipede is a chunky, glossy species from the secondary rainforests of West Africa. The alternating amber-orange and dark brown banding across the body gives them a really distinctive look, especially under decent lighting where you can appreciate how glossy they are. They're a solid medium-to-large millipede, reaching around 14–16 cm as adults with a good bit of width to them — noticeably bulkier than something like a Centrobolus species. They're sometimes confused with the closely related Pelmatojulus excisus (Giant Fire Millipede), and to be fair the two do look quite similar. The ligulatus tends to have more of an amber/yellow tone to its banding rather than the redder colouring of the excisus, but they're from the same genus and have very similar care requirements. The Important Bit: Diet This is where Amber Millipedes differ from a lot of the more commonly kept species, and it's worth being upfront about it. These are dietary specialists. Their main food source is white rotten wood (the soft, crumbly, well-decayed hardwood you find on the forest floor) and decaying leaf litter. That's what they eat — a lot of it, and consistently. Unlike some millipedes that will happily munch on cucumber, sweet potato, and banana alongside their substrate, P. ligulatus will largely ignore fresh vegetables and fruit. Some keepers report the odd nibble, but don't rely on it. You need to make sure you always have a good supply of well-rotted hardwood and leaf litter available. If you can keep that stocked up, they're not difficult to care for. If you can't, they'll struggle. It's as simple as that really. Lichen is also appreciated and can be offered on bark or branches. A calcium source like cuttlebone or crushed eggshell should be available at all times. Keeping Them They do well in a plastic or glass enclosure with a minimum floor space of around 30 x 40 cm. Substrate depth is important — at least 10 cm of a moist mix of organic compost, coconut coir, and crumbled rotten wood. Top this with a generous layer of leaf litter. Temperature should be kept between 24–28°C. In most UK homes you'll likely need a heat mat on a thermostat during cooler months to keep them within range, though in summer you may be fine without one. Humidity needs to be high, around 80–90%, so mist regularly and keep the substrate moist but not sodden. These aren't big climbers, so you don't need to worry too much about height or climbing branches. They're much more interested in burrowing into and foraging through the substrate. That said, cork bark, coconut shells, or pieces of bark laid flat make good hides and are appreciated. They can be kept in groups without issues, and are generally social and tolerant of each other provided there's enough space and food to go around. Temperament and Handling Amber Millipedes are docile and slow-moving, and can be handled. They're not skittish and will generally just plod along calmly. As with all millipedes, they can secrete a defensive liquid if stressed, so wash your hands after handling. They're not aggressive in any way — this is just a standard millipede defence mechanism. Breeding P. ligulatus can be bred in captivity, though they're slow to mature — reaching sexual maturity at around 2 years of age. Males can be identified by the presence of sole pads on the tarsi (feet). Eggs are deposited in the substrate, and the young should be left with the adults. They'll feed on the same decaying wood and leaf litter as the adults, so just make sure there's plenty available. Being Realistic These are a rewarding species to keep, but they're probably not the best pick if you're brand new to millipedes. The main reason is the dietary requirements — if you're used to keeping species that eat vegetables and fruit, the switch to sourcing and maintaining a supply of well-rotted wood and leaves takes a bit of planning. It's not hard, but it does require you to think ahead. If you've kept other millipedes before and you're comfortable with providing a substrate-heavy diet, you'll get on fine with these.

A Glimpse Origin: Mozambique / South Africa Scientific Name: Centrobolus annulatus Other Common Names: Mozambique Fire Millipede, Red Coral Millipede, Red Ring Millipede Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate Adult Size: 7–10 cm Rarity: Medium — not commonly available in the UK hobby Temperature: Room temperature (18–24°C). No additional heat needed. Humidity: High — substrate should be kept moist to the touch Ventilation: Good cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould Diet: Decaying leaf litter, rotting wood, cucumber, melon, banana, cooked sweetcorn, soft vegetables Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone for calcium Red Fire Millipede: Overview The Red Fire Millipede is one of the more striking smaller millipede species you'll come across. The vibrant red body with contrasting dark banding makes them genuinely eye-catching — they really do look as good as the photos suggest. That said, they're not a giant species. If you're expecting something the size of an African Giant, these aren't it. Adults typically reach around 7–10 cm, so they're a compact millipede, but what they lack in size they make up for in colour. These are native to the forests of Mozambique and South Africa, where they spend their time on the forest floor and climbing through low vegetation. They're actually quite keen climbers compared to some other species, so don't be surprised to find them scaling branches and cork bark in their enclosure rather than burrowing into the substrate. Make sure whatever enclosure you use has a secure lid — they are surprisingly strong for their size. Keeping Them Setup is straightforward. You'll want an enclosure at least 30cm x 30cm x 30cm with a good 10cm depth of moist substrate — a mix of coconut coir, organic compost, and decaying hardwood works well. Layer some leaf litter and rotting wood on top, as this forms a big part of their diet. Add some thick branches or cork bark for climbing, and you're pretty much there. Room temperature is fine for these — no heat mats or lamps required. In fact, overheating them is more of a risk than keeping them too cool. Keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged, and make sure there's decent airflow through the enclosure. Stagnant, overly humid conditions can lead to mould, which isn't great for the millipedes or the enclosure. They'll eat their way through the substrate and leaf litter, but you should also offer fresh vegetables. Cucumber, melon, banana, and cooked sweetcorn tend to go down well. Remove uneaten food before it goes off. A calcium source like cuttlebone or crushed eggshell should always be available to support healthy exoskeleton development through moults. Temperament and Handling These are docile millipedes and can be handled, though they're not the most enthusiastic about it. They'll generally just trundle along slowly across your hands. Like all millipedes, they can secrete a mild defensive liquid if they feel threatened — it's not dangerous but can stain skin temporarily, so wash your hands after handling. They're social and can be kept communally without issues, which is worth bearing in mind if you're thinking of keeping a small group. A Honest Note We want to be upfront — Centrobolus species, including the Red Fire Millipede, don't always have the longest track record in captivity compared to some of the larger, more established species like African Giants. Some keepers have reported shorter lifespans, and they can be a bit more sensitive to getting conditions wrong. They're not difficult to keep by any means, but they're perhaps not as bombproof as a Giant African Millipede. If you keep the humidity right, the ventilation decent, and the diet varied, you should do well with them. Just don't expect them to shrug off neglect the way some hardier species might. Breeding Males can be identified by modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th body segment. They will mate readily in captivity, and females deposit eggs a few inches into the substrate. Eggs typically hatch after around 6 weeks. Leave the young with the adults — the babies will feed on adult frass (droppings), which provides essential gut bacteria they need in their early stages. Juveniles start off pale and develop their red and dark colouration as they grow and moult.

Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus) - also known as the Florida Ivory Millipede - is one of North America's most attractive native millipede species. Named for the distinctive ivory-white colouration along their sides, these millipedes are a brilliant entry point for anyone looking to keep their first millipede, or a solid addition for more experienced keepers wanting a hardy, active species. Ivory Millipedes are detritivores that spend most of their time burrowing through substrate, breaking down organic matter and generally being fascinating to observe. They're one of the larger North American millipede species, reaching around 8-10cm when fully grown, and have a reputation for being docile, easy to handle, and genuinely forgiving of keeper mistakes. A Glimpse Origin: Southeastern USA (Florida, Georgia, South Carolina) Scientific Name: Chicobolus spinigerus Difficulty Level: Easy Size: Up to 10cm (22-25mm currently) Temperature: 20 to 27°C Humidity: 65 to 75% Favourite Foods: Decaying leaves, rotting wood, vegetables, fruits An Overview Chicobolus spinigerus originates from the humid forests, wetlands and coastal areas of the southeastern United States, from Florida through to South Carolina. In the wild, they live beneath rotting logs and within the top layers of leaf litter, where humidity remains consistently high and food is plentiful. These millipedes get their common name from the ivory-white colouration that runs along their lateral edges, contrasting with their darker brown or grey body. There's also a purple colour morph that matures into a striking black and white pattern. Ivory Millipedes are considered a fast-growing species by millipede standards, reaching maturity at around 18 months compared to the 2-5 years typical of many other species. They're prolific breeders once established and can live anywhere from 5 to 10 years with proper care. They make excellent bioactive tank inhabitants and work brilliantly alongside isopods and springtails, helping to break down organic waste and aerate the substrate. Basic Care Ivory Millipedes are docile creatures that rarely show any defensive behaviour beyond curling into a tight spiral when disturbed. They may secrete a mild defensive fluid if handled roughly, so wash your hands after handling. This secretion isn't dangerous but can irritate sensitive skin. These millipedes are primarily nocturnal, so don't be surprised if you see more activity in the evenings. They're social creatures and do well in groups. No aggression between individuals means you can house multiple millipedes together without issue. Substrate depth is crucial - aim for at least 10-15cm to allow for proper burrowing and moulting behaviour. Good ventilation is important to prevent mould build-up, but balance this with maintaining humidity levels. When they moult, they may disappear into the substrate for up to a week. This is completely normal. Feeding Millipedes are unique in that their substrate is their primary food source. This makes getting the substrate right absolutely essential - they'll spend most of their time eating decaying wood and leaves. Beyond the substrate, you can supplement their diet with: Fresh vegetables (cucumber, courgette, carrot, lettuce, squash) Fresh fruits (banana, melon, orange) - sparingly, as high sugar content can cause issues Decaying hardwood leaves (oak, beech) Rotting white wood Fish flakes or pellets (for protein, once a week) Dried shrimp or minnows Calcium is essential for healthy exoskeleton development and successful moulting. Good calcium sources include: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Limestone powder Oyster shell Remove uneaten fresh food before it goes mouldy - usually within 24-48 hours. Appearance and Behaviour Ivory Millipedes have a cylindrical body made up of numerous segments, each bearing two pairs of legs. Adults typically reach 8-10cm in length, though some individuals may grow slightly larger. Their colouration consists of a dark brown or grey body with distinctive ivory-white edges running the length of the animal. This white "skirt" is what gives them their common name. Juveniles may show slightly different colouration that develops as they mature. Males can be identified by examining the 7th body segment - instead of normal legs, males have modified gonopods (reproductive organs) which appear shorter or different from the surrounding legs. Behaviourally, these are calm, slow-moving creatures. They spend most of their time burrowing through substrate and feeding. They're comfortable being handled and will slowly crawl over your hands and arms when given the opportunity. When threatened, they curl into a tight spiral to protect their vulnerable underside. Habitat A minimum enclosure size of 20cm x 20cm x 20cm works for a small group, though bigger is always better. Substrate depth should be at least 10-15cm - deep enough for the millipede to completely burrow beneath the surface when moulting. Maintain good cross-ventilation to prevent mould while keeping humidity adequate. Temperature should be kept between 20-27°C. Room temperature works fine for most UK homes. Avoid using heat mats directly under the substrate. Humidity should stay around 65-75%. Mist lightly every 2-3 days and ensure the lower substrate layers remain moist. Add a thick layer of leaf litter on top of the substrate for shelter and additional food. Cork bark, branches and other climbing surfaces aren't essential but provide enrichment. Substrate Mix The substrate is arguably the most important aspect of millipede husbandry - they eat it, live in it, and moult within it. A good substrate mix should contain: 50% deciduous leaf litter humus (broken-down leaves from oak, beech or similar) 20% partially decomposed leaves 20% crumbled rotting hardwood 5% play sand or bird grit 5% ground cuttlefish bone or limestone powder Important: Avoid any substrates from pine or other coniferous trees. Some keepers recommend avoiding coconut coir as the primary component, as it offers little nutritional value to millipedes. If you do use coir, ensure it's mixed with plenty of decaying organic matter. Keep the substrate moist at the bottom and allow the top layer to dry slightly. This creates a humidity gradient that allows the millipedes to self-regulate.

Spirobolellus sp. "Maui" (Hawaiian Glow Millipede) is a small millipede from Hawaii that fluoresces bright blue-green under UV light. This isn't bioluminescence—they don't glow on their own in the dark—but when you shine a UV torch on them, they light up like tiny neon signs. Under normal lighting they're attractively patterned in black and white stripes, earning them the alternative name "Hawaiian Striped Millipede" or "Maui Skunk Stripe." They're small, easy to keep, and breed readily in captivity, making them a good choice for keepers wanting something a bit unusual. A Glimpse Origin: Hawaii (Maui) Scientific Name: Spirobolellus sp. "Maui" (possibly Spirobolellus immigrans) Common Names: Hawaiian Glow Millipede, Hawaiian Striped Millipede, Maui Skunk Stripe Millipede Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 1.5-2.5cm (approximately 1 inch) Rarity: Uncommon in the UK hobby Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-85% Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, substrate Supplements: Calcium, protein (fish flakes), occasional vegetables Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Introduction The main attraction here is the UV fluorescence. When exposed to ultraviolet light, these millipedes emit a bright blue-green glow. The fluorescence comes from compounds in their exoskeleton—many millipedes share this trait to varying degrees, but this species shows it particularly well. A cheap UV torch is all you need to see the effect. In normal light, they're black and white striped—a clean, attractive pattern that makes them easy to spot against dark substrate. The contrast between their unassuming daytime appearance and their glowing nighttime look is part of the appeal. These millipedes originate from Hawaii, with the captive stock coming from Maui. They're a small species—adults reach about 2.5cm (roughly an inch)—so they don't need large enclosures and work well in smaller vivariums or terrariums. They're also described as prolific breeders, so starting with a small group can lead to a self-sustaining colony. Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 2-2.5cm (around 1 inch) in length Cylindrical, segmented body typical of round millipedes (order Spirobolida) Black and white striped pattern along the body segments Multiple leg pairs along body length Fluoresces bright blue-green under UV light Antennae for environmental sensing Smooth, rounded body profile The UV fluorescence is the standout feature. The glow is brightest on the legs and body segments. Under normal lighting, the black and white striping gives them a zebra-like appearance—attractive in its own right. Behaviour Hawaiian Glow Millipedes behave like most small millipedes. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal or crepuscular. They're more active in evening and night hours, which happens to be ideal for UV viewing sessions. Movement: Slow and deliberate. They're not escape artists but will explore their enclosure methodically. Burrowing: They spend time beneath the substrate surface and in gaps between layers of decaying wood. Providing adequate substrate depth and rotting hardwood gives them places to retreat. Defensive behaviour: When disturbed, they curl into a spiral and may secrete defensive compounds. These secretions can leave yellow-orange stains on skin and have an unpleasant odour. Wash hands after handling or wear gloves. Social behaviour: Peaceful. Groups coexist without aggression and can be kept communally. Hiding: They favour gaps between bark and wood, burrowing into substrate, and hiding under leaf litter during inactive periods. Diet Hawaiian Glow Millipedes are detritivores that get most of their nutrition from their substrate. Primary foods: Decaying hardwood (oak, beech) Decomposed leaf litter Substrate itself (which should contain rotted organic matter) Supplementary foods: Fish flakes or pellets (protein source) Soft vegetables (courgette, carrot, cucumber) Soft fruits in moderation Moss Calcium: Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder. Like other arthropods, they need calcium for exoskeleton health. Feeding approach: Most of their nutrition comes from the substrate and decaying wood—this is their main food source rather than supplementary items. Keep the enclosure stocked with rotting hardwood and leaf litter. Offer protein supplements weekly and vegetables occasionally. Remove uneaten fresh foods before they mould. Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Breeding These millipedes breed readily in captivity and are described as prolific when conditions are right. Breeding basics: Provide stable, warm conditions (24-26°C optimal) Maintain high humidity (70-85%) Adequate substrate depth for egg-laying Plentiful food sources (decaying wood, leaves) Development: One keeper reported going from 6 individuals to 25 in 3.5 months, indicating quick reproduction under good conditions. Offspring start small and gain segments with each moult. Tips: Maintain stable conditions and plenty of decaying organic matter. Given their prolific nature, population growth can be fairly rapid once established. The small adult size means even a modestly-sized enclosure can support a good-sized colony. Hawaiian Glow Millipede: Habitat Setup Their small size and forgiving nature make setup straightforward. Enclosure: Small to medium containers work well. Plastic tubs with limited ventilation suit them—they need humidity retention. Their 2.5cm adult size means they don't need large spaces. A group of 10-15 can live comfortably in a 20x20x20cm enclosure. Substrate: The substrate is their primary food source, so quality matters. Use a mix containing: Decomposed hardwood (oak, beech—rotted and crushed) Decomposed leaf litter Forest humus Sphagnum moss for moisture retention Avoid substrates based primarily on topsoil or peat without rotted wood and leaves—these lack the nutrition millipedes need. The substrate should be moist to the touch but not waterlogged. Depth of 8-10cm allows burrowing and egg-laying. Humidity: 70-85%—they appreciate moist conditions: Keep substrate consistently moist Mist regularly Sphagnum moss patches retain moisture Limited ventilation maintains humidity Ventilation: Low. These prefer humid conditions, so excessive airflow works against them. A few small holes in the lid or minimal screen area is sufficient. If substrate dries out within a few days, reduce ventilation. Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F). Room temperature in UK homes works well. Some sources suggest 24-26°C (76-78°F) as optimal. They don't need supplemental heating in most homes. Décor and hides: Pieces of rotting hardwood with bark attached They particularly enjoy hiding between wood and its peeling bark Leaf litter on the surface Cork bark pieces Moss patches UV lighting: A UV torch for viewing—not for permanent lighting. The fluorescence is purely for your entertainment; the millipedes don't benefit from or need UV exposure. Keep viewing sessions brief. Bioactive Use These millipedes work well in bioactive setups. Good applications: Tropical bioactive enclosures High-humidity vivariums Cleanup crews alongside isopods and springtails Display terrariums (especially if you enjoy UV viewing) One seller notes they're "perfect for eating mould in terrariums alongside isopods and springtails"—they contribute to the decomposer community. Considerations: Small size makes them vulnerable to predation by larger inhabitants Need consistent moisture—not suited to arid setups Most visible at night or under UV light Tank Mates They're peaceful and coexist well with appropriate companions. Compatible: Isopods Springtails Other small, peaceful millipedes Small snails Caution: Larger predatory invertebrates may eat them Many reptiles and amphibians will prey on them (acceptable if intended as food, problematic if you want a permanent population) Their small size is the main consideration—they're potential prey for anything large enough to eat them. Suitability Hawaiian Glow Millipedes suit keepers looking for easy, interesting invertebrates with a visual gimmick. Good choice for: Beginners wanting something beyond standard cleanup crews Anyone interested in UV-reactive invertebrates Keepers with smaller enclosures Those wanting low-maintenance species People who enjoy showing off their invertebrates (the UV effect impresses visitors) Less suited for: Arid or low-humidity setups Enclosures with predators Those wanting large, impressive millipede species Care level: Easy. They're forgiving, breed readily, and don't demand precise conditions. Keep them moist, provide decaying wood and leaves, maintain warmth, and they'll thrive. One of the easier millipede species to keep successfully. Value: At £6 each (with bulk pricing available), they're affordable. The UV fluorescence adds novelty that you don't get from most invertebrates at this price. Buying several to start a breeding group makes sense given their prolific nature. What to expect: Expect small, peaceful millipedes that spend much of their time hidden in substrate and rotting wood. Expect the UV effect to genuinely impress—it's striking. Expect easy care and, given time, population growth. Don't expect daytime visibility or large specimens. Their appeal lies in their fluorescence, their attractive striping, their easy breeding, and their low-maintenance requirements. At this price point, they're worth a try for anyone curious about keeping millipedes.

The Burmese Beauty is a medium-sized millipede with striking olive green and orange banding that makes it one of the more attractive species in the hobby. Despite the name suggesting Myanmar, this species actually originates from Tanzania—the common name is a quirk of the trade. It's an active, hardy species that spends plenty of time on the surface, making it more visible than many millipedes that stay buried. At £6 per individual, it's an affordable entry point into millipede keeping with genuine visual appeal. Species Information Scientific name: Spirostreptus sp. 1 (also listed as Spirostreptidae sp. 1) Common names: Burmese Beauty Millipede, Olive Banded Millipede, Globular Millipede, Tanzania Olive Millipede Origin: Tanzania (despite the "Burmese" name) Adult size: 12–15cm (approximately 5–6 inches) Lifespan: Up to 5 years with proper care Difficulty: Easy—suitable for beginners Taxonomy Note This species hasn't been formally classified, hence the "sp. 1" designation. The hobby uses numbered species to differentiate between unidentified Spirostreptus millipedes from different localities. "Burmese Beauty" is a trade name that's stuck despite the species originating from East African dry savanna regions, not Myanmar. You may also see it sold as "Olive Banded Millipede" or "Tanzania Globular Millipede." Appearance Burmese Beauty Millipedes are genuinely attractive. Their bodies feature wide olive green segments alternating with thin black bands. Along each black band runs an extremely thin stripe of metallic coppery iridescence that shimmers in the light—it's subtle but beautiful when you notice it. The legs and antennae are beige, providing further contrast. Juveniles are more orange in colour, developing the characteristic olive green and orange "creamsicle" banding as they mature. Adults reach 12–15cm (some sources report up to 15cm), making them a medium-sized species—substantial enough to appreciate but not as large as the giant African species. One distinctive behaviour: they coil three-dimensionally into a globe shape rather than the flat disc-shaped coil of many millipedes. This "globular" coiling is characteristic of the species and gives rise to one of its alternative common names. Behaviour This is an active species that spends considerable time on the surface, making it more rewarding to observe than many millipedes that stay buried: Surface active: Regularly seen exploring above the substrate, particularly during dawn, dusk, and night Climbers: They enjoy climbing and will use branches and bark in their enclosure Not excessively photosensitive: Adults tolerate light better than many species, though they're primarily crepuscular/nocturnal Burrowing: Will burrow into substrate, especially during moulting Docile: Generally calm and handleable, though they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed Their willingness to be visible makes them excellent display animals. You'll actually see these millipedes rather than just knowing they're somewhere in the substrate. Defence Mechanisms Like all millipedes, Burmese Beauties can secrete defensive chemicals (benzoquinones) when stressed. The secretion is a brown/yellow fluid that can irritate skin and eyes. This species can secrete quite a lot for its size when stressed. Precautions: Handle calmly and minimise stress Wash hands thoroughly after handling Don't touch your face or eyes before washing The secretion isn't dangerous but can cause irritation They cannot bite—millipedes have no biting mouthparts capable of harming humans. Enclosure Setup Enclosure Size For adults or a group, provide: Minimum 30cm × 20cm × 40cm (length × width × height) Larger is better—they're active and will use the space Secure lid essential—millipedes are surprisingly strong Up to 10 millipedes can be housed in a 40cm × 40cm × 50cm enclosure Substrate Deep, nutrient-rich substrate is essential—millipedes eat it as their primary food source. Provide at least 10–12cm depth (some keepers recommend up to 20cm). This depth is important for: Burrowing and moulting (millipedes moult underground) Maintaining stable humidity and temperature Providing constant food source Substrate recipe (recommended mix): 50% forest humus (top layer of soil from under deciduous trees) 20% aged leaf litter (brown, partially decomposed leaves) 20% shredded decaying hardwood (should crumble easily between fingers) 5% play sand or bird grit (NOT builder's sand) 5% ground cuttlebone or powite garden limestone Critical: Never use anything from pine or other coniferous trees—the resins are harmful to millipedes. Layer the substrate: compact the bottom 7–8cm slightly, then add the remaining 4–5cm more loosely on top. Décor Climbing branches: Provide thick branches—they're not expert climbers but enjoy moving off the ground Cork bark: Hides and climbing surfaces Leaf litter: Layer on substrate surface Moss and lichen: On branches and surfaces—they'll graze on these Ventilation Cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould buildup. Ensure adequate airflow while maintaining humidity—mesh-covered vents on opposite sides work well. Temperature Range: 22–26°C (72–79°F) Optimal: 24°C Room temperature: Average UK room temperature (around 20°C) is acceptable, though they'll be more active and breed better at 22–24°C Important: DO NOT use heat mats under the substrate. Millipedes burrow to escape unfavourable conditions—a heat mat underneath traps them between heat and dry surface conditions. If heating is needed, use overhead heating or heat mats on enclosure sides. Humidity Range: 65–80% Substrate: Moist to the touch but not waterlogged Maintenance: Regular misting, leaf litter and moss help retain moisture Avoid: Waterlogging and standing water in substrate This species is relatively hardy regarding humidity and has good resistance to "foot rot" (a bacterial condition affecting millipede legs in overly wet conditions). However, proper moisture levels should still be maintained. Diet Millipedes are detritivores—they eat decaying organic matter. The substrate itself forms the bulk of their diet, which is why nutrient-rich substrate is essential. Primary diet (from substrate): Decaying hardwood Decomposed leaf litter Organic matter in forest humus Supplementary fresh foods: Cucumber (favourite) Melon Banana Cooked sweetcorn Oranges Other soft fruits and vegetables Additional foods: Moss and lichen (place on branches—they'll graze on it) Flake soil Protein supplements occasionally (fish flakes, dried shrimp) Calcium: Essential for exoskeleton health. Provide cuttlebone, crushed eggshells, or oyster shells. Ground limestone can be mixed into substrate. Using a small ceramic dish as a designated feeding spot helps—millipedes will learn where fresh food appears. Breeding Burmese Beauty Millipedes breed readily in captivity when their basic needs are met: Sexing: Males have modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th segment, making this segment noticeably thicker than females Mating: Face-to-face, often remaining coupled for extended periods Eggs: Deposited in the substrate Young: Leave with adults—juveniles benefit from eating adult faecal pellets, which contain beneficial gut bacteria Maturity: Sexual maturity around 12–13cm (approximately 5 inches) Growth rate: Slow-growing but breeds readily once established They're considered avid breeders when conditions are right. Some keepers report that a drying phase may help trigger breeding, mimicking the distinct rainy/dry seasons of their Tanzanian habitat. Handling Burmese Beauties are generally handleable but can be stress-prone: Handle gently and minimise duration Support their body—don't let them dangle Be aware they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed Wash hands after handling They may "pinch" slightly with their legs but cannot bite Cohabitation Can be housed with: Other Burmese Beauties: Social species, does well in groups Isopods: Good cleanup crew companions—avoid aggressively prolific species like Porcellionides pruinosus or Porcellio laevis that might disturb moulting millipedes; Cubaris and similar species work well Springtails: Beneficial for mould control Care Summary Temperature: 22–26°C (room temperature acceptable) Humidity: 65–80% Substrate: Deep (10–20cm), nutrient-rich mix of humus, leaf litter, decaying wood, sand, calcium Diet: Substrate organic matter, supplemented with fruits, vegetables, calcium Enclosure: Minimum 30×20×40cm with climbing branches and good ventilation Heating: Never underneath substrate—side or overhead only if needed Lifespan: Up to 5 years Difficulty: Easy—good beginner species Pricing 1 millipede: £6 5 millipedes: £25 10 millipedes: £40 Who Are They For? Burmese Beauty Millipedes suit: Beginners: Hardy, forgiving, and affordable—excellent first millipede Display keepers: Active and visible with attractive colouration Breeders: Breeds readily in captivity Anyone wanting an interesting invertebrate: More engaging than many "pet hole" species They're a genuinely good species for anyone interested in millipedes. The combination of attractive appearance, visible activity levels, hardy nature, and affordable price makes them one of the better entry points into millipede keeping. They're not as large as the giant African species, but their willingness to be seen and their striking olive-and-orange colouration more than compensates.