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A must-have supplement for any isopod or springtail keeper. Our 50g bag of 100% pure brewer's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) is a concentrated source of protein, B-vitamins, essential amino acids, and minerals including chromium, selenium, and zinc. Whether you're growing springtail cultures or boosting the nutrition of your isopod colonies, brewer's yeast is one of the most versatile and cost-effective foods you can keep on your shelf. A little goes a long way — a 50g bag will last most keepers several months. Why Brewer's Yeast? Brewer's yeast is one of the most protein-dense supplements available for invertebrates. The high protein and amino acid content supports healthy growth, moulting, and reproduction, while the B-vitamin complex helps to maintain strong immune function and overall vitality. The enzymes naturally present in brewer's yeast also aid digestion, helping your invertebrates break down and absorb nutrients more efficiently from their regular diet. The Go-To Springtail Food If you culture springtails, brewer's yeast is widely regarded as the single best food you can use. Just a tiny pinch sprinkled onto your charcoal, clay, or LECA substrate is enough to sustain a thriving culture for days. The yeast develops a light layer of mould in the humid culture environment, which the springtails feed on readily. It's clean, easy to use, and far less likely to attract mites or foul your cultures compared to alternatives like fish flakes or fruit scraps. Brewer's yeast works brilliantly across all commonly cultured springtail species, including: Folsomia candida (Temperate White Springtails) – The most widely kept species in the hobby. Brewer's yeast is the number one recommended food for culturing these on charcoal or clay substrates, producing rapid population growth with minimal maintenance. Sinella curviseta (Pink Springtails) – Another popular species that thrives on a brewer's yeast diet, responding well to regular light dustings in humid cultures. Tomocerus sp. (Silver/Grey Springtails) – These larger springtails feed readily on yeast and benefit from its nutritional profile, particularly when cultured on coconut chip or similar substrates. Tropical springtail species – Whether you keep blue, orange, or other tropical varieties, brewer's yeast is an excellent staple food that supports healthy cultures across the board. A Valuable Isopod Supplement For isopods, brewer's yeast works best as a supplementary food alongside leaf litter, calcium, and other protein sources. The concentrated protein and mineral content makes it particularly useful for: Porcellio & Porcellionides – Active, protein-hungry species like P. scaber, P. laevis (Dairy Cow), P. ornatus, and Porcellionides pruinosus (Powder Orange, Powder Blue) will readily consume brewer's yeast. These fast-breeding genera benefit from the extra protein to fuel their high energy levels and rapid reproduction. Armadillidium – Species like A. vulgare, A. maculatum (Zebra), A. klugii (Clown), and A. gestroi appreciate brewer's yeast as part of a varied diet. The mineral content supports healthy exoskeleton development through successive moults. Cubaris – Slower-breeding species like Rubber Ducky, Panda King, and other Cubaris varieties can benefit from the nutritional boost that brewer's yeast provides, supporting colony health and breeding success where every brood matters. Trichorhina (Dwarf White/Dwarf Purple) – These tiny, prolific species respond well to brewer's yeast as a food source and are often kept alongside springtails in bioactive setups. Brewer's yeast is also suitable for other invertebrates including millipedes, cockroaches, and beetles. How to Use For springtail cultures: Sprinkle a very small pinch onto your substrate every 2–4 days, or when the previous feeding has been consumed. Less is more — overfeeding can cause mould overgrowth and reduce oxygen in sealed cultures. For isopods: Lightly dust a small amount into the enclosure as an occasional supplement alongside their regular diet of leaf litter, vegetables, and calcium. Remove any uneaten food after 48 hours to prevent unwanted mould. What You Get 50g of 100% pure brewer's yeast. No additives, no fillers — just brewer's yeast.

The Burmese Beauty is a medium-sized millipede with striking olive green and orange banding that makes it one of the more attractive species in the hobby. Despite the name suggesting Myanmar, this species actually originates from Tanzania—the common name is a quirk of the trade. It's an active, hardy species that spends plenty of time on the surface, making it more visible than many millipedes that stay buried. At £6 per individual, it's an affordable entry point into millipede keeping with genuine visual appeal. Species Information Scientific name: Spirostreptus sp. 1 (also listed as Spirostreptidae sp. 1) Common names: Burmese Beauty Millipede, Olive Banded Millipede, Globular Millipede, Tanzania Olive Millipede Origin: Tanzania (despite the "Burmese" name) Adult size: 12–15cm (approximately 5–6 inches) Lifespan: Up to 5 years with proper care Difficulty: Easy—suitable for beginners Taxonomy Note This species hasn't been formally classified, hence the "sp. 1" designation. The hobby uses numbered species to differentiate between unidentified Spirostreptus millipedes from different localities. "Burmese Beauty" is a trade name that's stuck despite the species originating from East African dry savanna regions, not Myanmar. You may also see it sold as "Olive Banded Millipede" or "Tanzania Globular Millipede." Appearance Burmese Beauty Millipedes are genuinely attractive. Their bodies feature wide olive green segments alternating with thin black bands. Along each black band runs an extremely thin stripe of metallic coppery iridescence that shimmers in the light—it's subtle but beautiful when you notice it. The legs and antennae are beige, providing further contrast. Juveniles are more orange in colour, developing the characteristic olive green and orange "creamsicle" banding as they mature. Adults reach 12–15cm (some sources report up to 15cm), making them a medium-sized species—substantial enough to appreciate but not as large as the giant African species. One distinctive behaviour: they coil three-dimensionally into a globe shape rather than the flat disc-shaped coil of many millipedes. This "globular" coiling is characteristic of the species and gives rise to one of its alternative common names. Behaviour This is an active species that spends considerable time on the surface, making it more rewarding to observe than many millipedes that stay buried: Surface active: Regularly seen exploring above the substrate, particularly during dawn, dusk, and night Climbers: They enjoy climbing and will use branches and bark in their enclosure Not excessively photosensitive: Adults tolerate light better than many species, though they're primarily crepuscular/nocturnal Burrowing: Will burrow into substrate, especially during moulting Docile: Generally calm and handleable, though they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed Their willingness to be visible makes them excellent display animals. You'll actually see these millipedes rather than just knowing they're somewhere in the substrate. Defence Mechanisms Like all millipedes, Burmese Beauties can secrete defensive chemicals (benzoquinones) when stressed. The secretion is a brown/yellow fluid that can irritate skin and eyes. This species can secrete quite a lot for its size when stressed. Precautions: Handle calmly and minimise stress Wash hands thoroughly after handling Don't touch your face or eyes before washing The secretion isn't dangerous but can cause irritation They cannot bite—millipedes have no biting mouthparts capable of harming humans. Enclosure Setup Enclosure Size For adults or a group, provide: Minimum 30cm × 20cm × 40cm (length × width × height) Larger is better—they're active and will use the space Secure lid essential—millipedes are surprisingly strong Up to 10 millipedes can be housed in a 40cm × 40cm × 50cm enclosure Substrate Deep, nutrient-rich substrate is essential—millipedes eat it as their primary food source. Provide at least 10–12cm depth (some keepers recommend up to 20cm). This depth is important for: Burrowing and moulting (millipedes moult underground) Maintaining stable humidity and temperature Providing constant food source Substrate recipe (recommended mix): 50% forest humus (top layer of soil from under deciduous trees) 20% aged leaf litter (brown, partially decomposed leaves) 20% shredded decaying hardwood (should crumble easily between fingers) 5% play sand or bird grit (NOT builder's sand) 5% ground cuttlebone or powite garden limestone Critical: Never use anything from pine or other coniferous trees—the resins are harmful to millipedes. Layer the substrate: compact the bottom 7–8cm slightly, then add the remaining 4–5cm more loosely on top. Décor Climbing branches: Provide thick branches—they're not expert climbers but enjoy moving off the ground Cork bark: Hides and climbing surfaces Leaf litter: Layer on substrate surface Moss and lichen: On branches and surfaces—they'll graze on these Ventilation Cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould buildup. Ensure adequate airflow while maintaining humidity—mesh-covered vents on opposite sides work well. Temperature Range: 22–26°C (72–79°F) Optimal: 24°C Room temperature: Average UK room temperature (around 20°C) is acceptable, though they'll be more active and breed better at 22–24°C Important: DO NOT use heat mats under the substrate. Millipedes burrow to escape unfavourable conditions—a heat mat underneath traps them between heat and dry surface conditions. If heating is needed, use overhead heating or heat mats on enclosure sides. Humidity Range: 65–80% Substrate: Moist to the touch but not waterlogged Maintenance: Regular misting, leaf litter and moss help retain moisture Avoid: Waterlogging and standing water in substrate This species is relatively hardy regarding humidity and has good resistance to "foot rot" (a bacterial condition affecting millipede legs in overly wet conditions). However, proper moisture levels should still be maintained. Diet Millipedes are detritivores—they eat decaying organic matter. The substrate itself forms the bulk of their diet, which is why nutrient-rich substrate is essential. Primary diet (from substrate): Decaying hardwood Decomposed leaf litter Organic matter in forest humus Supplementary fresh foods: Cucumber (favourite) Melon Banana Cooked sweetcorn Oranges Other soft fruits and vegetables Additional foods: Moss and lichen (place on branches—they'll graze on it) Flake soil Protein supplements occasionally (fish flakes, dried shrimp) Calcium: Essential for exoskeleton health. Provide cuttlebone, crushed eggshells, or oyster shells. Ground limestone can be mixed into substrate. Using a small ceramic dish as a designated feeding spot helps—millipedes will learn where fresh food appears. Breeding Burmese Beauty Millipedes breed readily in captivity when their basic needs are met: Sexing: Males have modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th segment, making this segment noticeably thicker than females Mating: Face-to-face, often remaining coupled for extended periods Eggs: Deposited in the substrate Young: Leave with adults—juveniles benefit from eating adult faecal pellets, which contain beneficial gut bacteria Maturity: Sexual maturity around 12–13cm (approximately 5 inches) Growth rate: Slow-growing but breeds readily once established They're considered avid breeders when conditions are right. Some keepers report that a drying phase may help trigger breeding, mimicking the distinct rainy/dry seasons of their Tanzanian habitat. Handling Burmese Beauties are generally handleable but can be stress-prone: Handle gently and minimise duration Support their body—don't let them dangle Be aware they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed Wash hands after handling They may "pinch" slightly with their legs but cannot bite Cohabitation Can be housed with: Other Burmese Beauties: Social species, does well in groups Isopods: Good cleanup crew companions—avoid aggressively prolific species like Porcellionides pruinosus or Porcellio laevis that might disturb moulting millipedes; Cubaris and similar species work well Springtails: Beneficial for mould control Care Summary Temperature: 22–26°C (room temperature acceptable) Humidity: 65–80% Substrate: Deep (10–20cm), nutrient-rich mix of humus, leaf litter, decaying wood, sand, calcium Diet: Substrate organic matter, supplemented with fruits, vegetables, calcium Enclosure: Minimum 30×20×40cm with climbing branches and good ventilation Heating: Never underneath substrate—side or overhead only if needed Lifespan: Up to 5 years Difficulty: Easy—good beginner species Pricing 1 millipede: £6 5 millipedes: £25 10 millipedes: £40 Who Are They For? Burmese Beauty Millipedes suit: Beginners: Hardy, forgiving, and affordable—excellent first millipede Display keepers: Active and visible with attractive colouration Breeders: Breeds readily in captivity Anyone wanting an interesting invertebrate: More engaging than many "pet hole" species They're a genuinely good species for anyone interested in millipedes. The combination of attractive appearance, visible activity levels, hardy nature, and affordable price makes them one of the better entry points into millipede keeping. They're not as large as the giant African species, but their willingness to be seen and their striking olive-and-orange colouration more than compensates.

Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" is a Thai Cubaris species named for its coffee-toned colouration. The exact shade varies between populations and individuals—some display light brown and cream tones like milky coffee, while others show brighter orange with dark purple, more reminiscent of espresso. Either way, the colour palette is distinctive and attractive. They're larger than many Cubaris species, somewhat hardier than their more demanding relatives, and make engaging display pets for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand, Southeast Asia (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" Common Names: Cappuccino Isopod Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: Up to 22mm (approximately 2cm) Rarity: High Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Calcium (limestone preferred), protein twice weekly Cappuccino Isopods: Introduction Cappuccino isopods emerged from the Thai Cubaris explosion that followed the discovery of Rubber Ducky isopods in limestone caves around 2017. Since then, numerous Cubaris species and morphs have entered the hobby, with Cappuccinos becoming one of the more sought-after varieties. Their name derives from their colouration, which evokes coffee drinks—though descriptions vary. Some sources describe light brown and cream tones (latte-like), while others emphasise bright orange with deep purple (more like a darker roast). This variation may reflect different breeding lines or simply the range of natural variation within the species. Either interpretation produces attractive isopods. Compared to some finicky Cubaris species, Cappuccinos are described as "hardier" and more "resilient to changes in humidity and temperature." They're not beginner isopods—they still require consistent conditions and more attention than Armadillidium or Porcellio—but they're a reasonable step up for keepers with some experience who want to try Cubaris without jumping straight to the most demanding species. Cappuccino Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 22mm—larger than many Cubaris species Rounded body shape with characteristic Cubaris "duck face" Colouration varies: light brown/tan/cream OR bright orange with dark purple White "skirt" around darker body in some descriptions Some individuals display white "ducky face" with coloured "lips" Small eyes on top of head Short legs, four sets of spiracles for respiration Can roll into defensive ball (conglobation) Can make clicking sounds when threatened The size is notable—at up to 22mm, they're on the larger end for Cubaris, making them easier to observe than smaller species. The colour pattern, whatever variation you receive, is distinctive and makes them visually appealing display animals. Behaviour Cappuccino isopods display typical Cubaris behaviour patterns with some distinctions. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal—most active at night when they emerge to feed. You'll see occasional daytime sightings, especially as colony numbers increase, but expect them to be most visible after lights go out. Temperament: Described as "fairly passive" and less easily spooked than some Cubaris species. They're "gentle" and "docile"—good characteristics for observation and handling. Burrowing: They burrow for moisture control and security. This differs from some surface-dwelling species—provide adequate substrate depth (10-15cm minimum) to accommodate this behaviour. Social: Gregarious. They do well in groups and benefit from colony living. Purchase in groups for best establishment success. Shyness: Like many Cubaris, they're shy and reclusive, particularly when newly introduced. As one source notes: "Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much." Higher numbers in the colony lead to more visible activity. Diet Standard Cubaris dietary requirements with emphasis on calcium. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple—always available in abundance) Decaying white-rotted wood (always available) Forest moss Lichen Supplementary foods: Vegetables: squash, radishes, carrots, other organic vegetables Fruits: various (feed in moderation) Commercial isopod foods (Repashy, powdered diets) Fish flakes Dog food (occasionally) Protein: Provide protein twice weekly: Freeze-dried minnows Dried shrimp Fish pellets Dried insects Feed protein on the drier side of the enclosure as it can spoil quickly in humid conditions and attract pests. Calcium (particularly important): Cappuccinos, like many Thai Cubaris, originate from limestone cave environments and are particularly fond of calcium sources: Cuttlebone (quickly devoured when offered) Limestone chunks "Texas Holy Rock" (reported favourite) Crushed eggshells Calcium carbonate powder in substrate Providing limestone mimics their natural cave habitat and supports healthy exoskeleton development. Feeding notes: Avoid overfeeding Remove uneaten fresh foods before spoiling Ensure no pesticide residue on vegetables Good nutrition promotes faster breeding and healthier populations Cappuccino Isopods: Breeding Cappuccinos breed reliably once established, though they're not the fastest reproducers. Breeding characteristics: Slow to establish—may take several months before young appear Once established, breed "prolifically" and reliably Moderate reproduction rate overall Females carry eggs in brood pouch (marsupium) Reality check: One experienced source states breeding difficulty as "Advanced," while others say "Medium" or "Moderate." The consensus is that they're slower to establish than many species but become reliable producers once the colony matures. Patience is required—don't expect rapid population growth initially. Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (high 70s to low 80s°F / 24-28°C) Consistent high humidity (60-80%) Adequate calcium supply Deep substrate for burrowing Abundant food (leaf litter, decaying wood) Minimal disturbance during establishment Avoid large environmental swings Cappuccino Isopods: Habitat Setup Cappuccinos require more attention to setup than beginner species but are manageable for intermediate keepers. Enclosure: Plastic containers or terrariums work well Minimal air holes (to maintain humidity) Shoebox-sized container (approximately 6 quart / 3 gallon minimum) suitable for starter colonies Fair ventilation required—not sealed, but limited holes Ventilation: Medium. They need some airflow but not so much that humidity drops. Balance is key—too much ventilation dries them out, too little causes stagnation. Substrate: Deep substrate is important for their burrowing behaviour: Recommended mix: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss (milled and long-fibre) Forest humus Fine tree fern fibre Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, willow) Orchid bark Depth: Minimum 10-15cm (4-6 inches). Deeper substrates retain moisture longer and support burrowing behaviour. Humidity: 60-80%—high but not excessive: Keep substrate mostly moist but not soggy Some sources recommend "moist side and slightly less moist side" rather than dramatic wet/dry gradient Never let substrate get anywhere close to dry Mist every few days with dechlorinated water Cork bark pieces help retain humidity Critical note: Too much humidity and dampness can cause moulting issues and sudden die-offs. Moist, not wet, is the goal. Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F)—comfortable room temperature to slightly warm: High 70s to low 80s°F is the comfort zone Avoid large temperature swings (can be fatal) Room temperature in heated UK homes generally works Stable conditions more important than hitting exact numbers Décor: Cork bark pieces (they may prefer lotus pods as hideouts) Leaf litter (food and cover) Decaying wood pieces Moss patches Limestone chunks (calcium source and habitat enrichment) Setup philosophy: Aim for half soil, half decaying wood components. Provide plenty of hiding spots and natural botanical items that simulate their wild habitat—this promotes natural behaviours like eating and breeding. Bioactive Use Cappuccinos can work in bioactive setups but have limitations. Strengths: Help reduce organic waste buildup Aid in nutrient recycling Add visual interest (nocturnal activity) Larger size makes them visible when active Limitations: Not the best bioactive cleaners—better species exist for that purpose Shy and nocturnal—you won't see them working during the day Require specific conditions that may not match all bioactive setups Slow breeding means population recovery takes time if predation occurs Best use: Cappuccinos are better suited as display pets than utilitarian cleanup crews. If you want efficient bioactive processing, consider Porcellio or faster-breeding species. Keep Cappuccinos because you enjoy observing them, not primarily for their cleanup utility. Suitable applications: Tropical terrariums where conditions match their needs Display colonies where aesthetics matter Vivariums with compatible inhabitants Suitability Cappuccinos suit intermediate keepers wanting attractive Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with some isopod experience ready to try Cubaris Those wanting larger, more observable Cubaris Display colony enthusiasts Keepers who can maintain consistent conditions Those attracted to coffee-toned colouration Less suited for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Those wanting fast-breeding cleanup crews Keepers unable to maintain stable humidity/temperature Those expecting highly visible daytime activity Care level: They're described as "hardier" and more "resilient" than some Cubaris, but still require consistent conditions without large environmental swings. One source warns: "If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry." The key challenges are: maintaining stable conditions (temperature/humidity swings can be fatal), patience during slow establishment period, and accepting their nocturnal/shy nature. Value: At £55 for 5, £105 for 10, or £200 for 20, Cappuccinos are moderately priced for Cubaris—less expensive than ultra-rare species but more than beginner isopods. The price reflects their desirability, attractive appearance, and the care required to maintain breeding colonies. For keepers wanting an accessible entry point into "designer" Cubaris, they represent reasonable value. What to expect: Expect attractive isopods with coffee-toned colouration that varies between cream/brown and orange/purple depending on the line. Expect them to be primarily nocturnal—you'll see them most after lights go out, with occasional daytime sightings increasing as colony numbers grow. Expect shy behaviour initially, becoming bolder as the colony establishes. Expect slow breeding at first, accelerating once the colony matures (this may take months). Expect to maintain consistent humidity and temperature without major swings. Expect larger Cubaris (up to 22mm) that are easier to observe than smaller species. For keepers who enjoyed success with beginner species and want to explore the diverse world of Thai Cubaris, Cappuccinos offer an appealing combination: attractive appearance, reasonable (not extreme) care requirements, and the engaging behaviours that make Cubaris popular. They're not the easiest isopods, but they reward patient keepers who provide appropriate conditions with reliably breeding colonies of genuinely attractive animals.

Caramel Cream Isopods are small-sized are small-sized species native to Thailand. Naturally occurring in the tropical Asian region, the Caramel Cream Isopods need high temperatures to thrive. They have a unique creamy and caramel colour, perfect for any terrarium setup. The capsule-shaped Caramel Cream Isopods have calm behaviour and are easy to care for beginners. The Caramel Cream Isopods have a less aggressive nature compared to other isopods. These Cubaris sp isopods will pose no danger to other animals in a terrarium setup.  A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty: Low Rarity: Very rare Temperature: 22 to 28℃ Size: 2 to 3 cm Humidity: 60 to 80% Favourable Foods: Crushed Eggs Shells, Dry Leaves An Overview Caramel Cream Isopods make interesting and beloved pets because they are very rare to find. These Caramel Cream Isopods are Thailand species characterized by their white and striped appearance. The Caramel Cream Isopods have a capsule-like body shape with a segmented armor.    These tropical Asian origin natives have a somewhat calm and active nature. These elegant Caramel Cream Isopods are initially transparent and acquire their characteristic colouration over time. These easy-to-keep Cubaris sp isopods are small-sized species that can grow from 2 to 3 cm in size.    Being a mediumly humid environment thrivers, the Caramel Cream Isopods need a terrarium setup with medium humidity level. As the original climate of the Caramel Cream Isopods is tropical, they can grow in humid and warm environments at the same time.    The Caramel Cream Isopods make ideal pets because of their contribution towards the cleanliness of the terrarium’s ecosystem. Feeding the Caramel Cream Isopods is not difficult either. These isopods’ main food source is crushed eggshells and calcium-rich foods.    Caramel Cream Isopods are peaceful species. They can coexist with other species in the terrarium setup without any conflicts. These stunning isopods pose no danger to plants inside the terrarium.  Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to Caramel Cream Isopods. You can use an enclosure setup with a medium humidity level to house the Caramel Cream Isopods. It is essential to ensure the Caramel Cream Isopods get calcium-rich foods in the form of crushed egg shells. Don’t keep the enclosure in direct light.  Make use of a substrate mix with decaying organic matter and plant debris to meet the needs of Caramel Cream Isopods.  Feeding Caramel Cream Isopods Caramel Cream Isopods are relatively easy Cubaris species when it comes to feeding. The Caramel Cream Isopods can feed on decaying organic matter such as dry leaves and wood. They are fond of plant debris. These Cubaris isopods consume coconut fiber. They also consume leaf litter as found in the natural environment.  Appearance And Behaviour Caramel Cream Isopods thrive in medium to high-level humidity conditions.  These Cubaris sp isopods can be suitable choice for beginners because they are easy to keep and also easy to breed.  Caramel Cream Isopods are small-sized cute little isopods with capsule-like appearance.  These creamy white coloured isopods resemble milk chocolate in appearance.  You can make them stay alongside other species because they are peaceful isopods that will not cause conflicts.  Habitat The Caramel Cream Isopods is a species recognized for its milky-white color and calm nature. The Caramel Cream Isopods can live beside other species and plants in the terrarium in harmony. They are born alive unlike species that hatch from eggs.  Substrate Mix The Caramel Cream Isopods will need a substrate mix with coconut fibre mix and leaf litter to retain moisture within the terrarium setup. Isopod collectors can add natural supplements like decaying organic matter and plant debris for their growth. They can even add non-chlorinated water in a small dish within the setup. 

Zebra Isopods (Armadillidium maculatum) are the most commonly sought-after isopods. For most people, zebras are the first isopod they purchase as an aspiring hobbyist and breeder. They have a striking colour and can be line-bred/isolated to produce better stripes on them.   Zebra Isopods: Insight Place of Origin: France Scientific Name: Armadillidium maculatum Environment: Semi-arid Ideal Temperature: 75℉-80℉ Breeding Difficulty: Intermediate General Size: 1.8 cm Rareness: Low Humidity Range: 70%-80% Diet: soft-boiled plants, fish food, moss Supplements: calcium powder   Zebra Isopods: Abstract These are some of the isopods that pet lovers keep for aesthetics, more than just a cleanup tool in terrariums and vivariums. They have striking black and white stripes on their exoskeleton, which helps to ward off predators in the wild. Though they are from the family of common pill bugs, their distinctive features stood out. These beautiful species are native to the arid regions of the Mediterranean and Southern France.    Zebra Isopods: Special Characteristics They have distinct black and white stripes, which resemble the pattern of zebras.  They have smooth, domed, and tough exteriors. These roly polys grow up to 1.8 cm. Their antennae are shorter compared to other isopod species.  These species prefer moderate to high ventilation.  They are from the deciduous forests of the Mediterranean and French regions. When threatened, these isopods roll into a ball. Resilient and easy to maintain.  They are active and not too shy once they establish and settle in.  These isopods make the best choice for beginners. They are widely popular isopods and are budget-friendly.    Zebra Isopods: Morphs Zebra Isopods are commonly seen in black and white stripes. However, there are various morphs developed by breeders. Some of them are:- Yellow Zebra Isopods: They have yellow and black stripes. Chocolate Zebra Isopods: Has white stripes with a dark brown base colour. Dalmatian Zebra Isopods: Also known as high white isopods. They have a predominantly white color with black spots.  Spotted Zebra Isopods: They have white spots instead of stripes.    Zebra Isopods: Artificial Enclosure There are several factors to consider for an ideal enclosure of Zebra Isopods. These isopods require a large container to accommodate their needs. Though the size may vary depending on the colony, it is always better to opt for bigger enclosure boxes for them to breed and thrive.    It is essential to provide ventilation to the enclosure for good airflow and humidity maintenance. Choosing a container with ventilation outlets covered with mesh will be suitable for the Zebra Isopods. For those who prefer DIY, drilling holes in the container's sides will also help provide the necessary ventilation.    These holes should be strategically placed to facilitate cross-ventilation while minimizing escape risk. While zebra isopods may not possess exceptional climbing abilities, covering any ventilation openings with a fine mesh is still advisable to prevent them from escaping. This precautionary measure ensures the safety of the isopods within their enclosure.   Zebra Isopods: Substrate The right substrate mix helps to provide an optimal environment for the isopods. A classic choice for substrate mix is the ABG Mix, which offers the perfect base for the isopod setting.    In addition to the mix, the coir of coconut works as an excellent material to retain moisture. This will help make the same environment as their original environment. Coconut coir and sphagnum moss are very loose materials, which will help them burrow inside as they do in their natural environment.   Leaf litter is the primary food source and provides hiding spaces for isopods. They contribute to the nutrient cycle within the enclosure of the isopods.    The discharge from the earthworms is a rich source of organic matter, and it contains microorganisms. It provides valuable nutrients for the isopods. This addition promotes soil fertility and helps sustain a thriving ecosystem within the enclosure.    Zebra Isopods prefer arid temperatures with less humidity. While maintaining overall high humidity, providing a drier section within the habitat allows the isopods to choose their preferred microclimate. When misting, make sure to mist on a small area, leaving the rest of the container dry.    Zebra Isopods: Tips to Care Zebra isopods require a less humid environment but not a dry and deserted environment. Therefore, it is essential to provide the necessary moisture for hydration.  Provide a lot of hiding spots within the enclosure for the isopods to form their colonies. Adding wooden bark, dried leaves, and stones to the enclosure helps to mimic their natural environment and acts as hiding spots. It is important to maintain the temperature range of the enclosure. Extreme temperature fluctuations can be stressful for the isopods.  Regular maintenance is crucial to keep the enclosure clean. Make sure to remove excess uneaten food, molting, and any mold to keep a healthy environment.  An overcrowded isopod enclosure may lead to competition for resources. Therefore, it is important to maintain the number in an enclosure. If the isopod population is increasing, relocate to a bigger enclosure or provide a separate enclosure for the new colonies.    Zebra Isopods: Temperature and Humidity Zebra Isopods prefer a slightly warm temperature of 75℉ to 80℉. It is crucial to maintain the temperature. During winter, it is ideal to provide heating mats to the enclosure to maintain the optimal temperature.    It can be difficult to maintain a balance between humidity levels, particularly when ventilation and a dry region are required inside the enclosure. Excessively high humidity levels should be avoided, even if some moisture is required, especially to support the isopods' hydration and maintain a healthy substrate.    Zebra Isopods: Food and Diet Feeding them with the right food and having a perfect mix of supplements will help make them remain healthy. It also ensures that they are reproducing healthy offspring.   The container in which they are kept should be supplied with a large amount of decaying organic materials, which will help them get the necessary nutrients. In addition, litters of leaf or bark of the wood can also be fed as part of the feeding cycle. Other supplements include:-   Flakes of Fish Food: It is an easy supplement and contains high amounts of protein. Pieces of Vegetables: A portion of the vegetable or the remains from vegetable cutting in small amounts can be supplied. It has to be ensured that it should not be supplied in large quantities. Food specially made for the Isopods: Specially designed food always has the best mix of nutrients, which will make them remain healthy and give a longer life span.  

A brightly coloured morph of the Cubaris Sp. Panda King, these Citrus Panda Kings share all the advantages of a Panda King. A suitable species for people new to keeping slightly harder isopods, or even a beginner who is confident in keeping terrariums at the correct humidity. The appealing features of a Cubaris sp. Large enough to be visible, but small enough to thrive in a small enclosure, and relatively unfussy in terms of food.      • Origin: Vietnam     • Scientific Name: Cubaris Sp ‘Panda King’     • Difficulty Level: Easy     • Size:  10 to 18mm     • Rarity: Low/medium     • Temperature:  22°C to 28°C     • Humidity: 60% to 75%     • Diet: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables    The original populations of Panda Kings came from the limestone caves of Vietnam. Eventually, a red/orange morph appeared, where the black sections of the Panda King were replaced with a red/orange colour. From that, a further morph was isolated in these fully citrus-coloured isopods. However, they have a white margin to their rear segments that can be larger in some individuals.    The citrus panda king morph has occurred in several species of isopod, in some species it is known as variegated. Interestingly it seems that there may be other morphs that can be bred by crossing these to other colours, but the information on the exact genes isn’t clear.    Needing slightly higher humidity levels than others, and enjoying burrowing, it's crucial to provide a healthy layer of substrate, cork bark and wood as places to hide, and potentially the enclosure might need regular misting.    They require some extra calcium in their diet, and some variety, as with most species leaf litter can provide the bulk of their diet, but add in a variety of fruits and veg, as well as some good quality fish food.

Clown Isopods (Armadillidium klugii 'Montenegro') are among the most visually striking species in the hobby. Their dramatic colouration - dark bodies edged with red "skirts" and scattered with yellow or cream spots - is genuinely eye-catching and unlike anything else in most collections. The name "Clown" comes from their spotted, colourful appearance, though their behaviour is anything but clownish. These are actually rather shy, retiring isopods that prefer to stay hidden, particularly when first introduced to a new environment. The "Montenegro" designation refers to their geographic origin along the Adriatic coast. What makes their appearance particularly fascinating is that it's thought to be a form of mimicry. The colour pattern closely resembles the Mediterranean black widow spider (Latrodectus tredecimguttatus), potentially deterring predators who mistake these harmless isopods for something far more dangerous. Armadillidium klugii are well-suited to drier setups than many isopod species, making them excellent choices for semi-arid bioactive enclosures where tropical species would struggle. A Glimpse Origin: Montenegro, Adriatic coast (Balkan region of Europe) Scientific Name: Armadillidium klugii 'Montenegro' Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium Size: Up to 18mm Temperature: 21-27°C (23-26°C optimal for breeding) Humidity: 30-50% (with moisture gradient) Rarity: Low to Medium An Overview Armadillidium klugii originates from the coastlines of the Adriatic Sea, ranging from Croatia through Montenegro and into Albania and western Greece. The "Montenegro" variety is one of several regional forms available, each with slightly different colouration. Montenegro Clowns typically display dark grey to black bodies with distinctive red edging (the "skirt") around their segments, decorated with yellow, cream, or white spots. The exact colouration varies between individuals, and some specimens show more vibrant markings than others. Their cousin, the "Dubrovnik" variety from Croatia, tends to have simpler white spots without the same red colouration. These isopods have a reputation for being slow starters. New cultures often take time to settle in, and it's not unusual to lose a few individuals during the initial adjustment period. Don't be discouraged - this is normal for the species. Once established, they become reliable breeders, particularly during warmer months. Behaviourally, Clown Isopods are notably shy compared to more confident species like Zebras or Magic Potions. They prefer to stay hidden and are most active at night. You may not see them as often as other species, but their striking appearance makes every sighting worthwhile. Varieties Several regional varieties of Armadillidium klugii are available in the hobby: Montenegro - Dark bodies with red skirts and yellow/cream coloured spots. The classic "Clown" look. Dubrovnik - From Croatia, typically showing brighter red coloration with white spots rather than coloured ones. Montenegro Orange - A selectively bred morph with vibrant orange base colouration instead of dark grey/black. Highly sought after by collectors. All varieties share similar care requirements. Basic Care Clown Isopods require slightly different care than many tropical species. They're adapted to drier, Mediterranean-type conditions and won't thrive in constantly humid enclosures. The key to success with A. klugii is providing a proper moisture gradient. Unlike species that prefer uniformly humid conditions, Clowns need a sharp divide between wet and dry areas. Roughly one-third of the enclosure should be kept damp (using sphagnum moss), while the remaining two-thirds stays dry to bone-dry. They absolutely must have access to a moist area for rehydration, but the majority of their environment should be arid. Good ventilation is essential - more so than for tropical species. Stagnant, humid air quickly leads to mould problems and can cause colony crashes. Add plenty of ventilation holes to your enclosure and ensure air can circulate freely. Temperature should be maintained at 21-27°C, with the higher end of this range (23-26°C) encouraging faster breeding. They'll tolerate typical room temperatures without issue. A shoebox-sized container (6-8 quart) works well for a starter colony. These isopods are slow to establish, so patience is required - expect 3-4 months before you start seeing offspring. One important note: Clown Isopod cultures can crash relatively quickly if their specific needs (moisture gradient, ventilation, protein) aren't consistently met. They're not difficult to keep, but they do require attention to these details. Feeding Clown Isopods are detritivores with a preference for leaf litter and softwood over fresh vegetables. Their diet in the wild consists primarily of decomposing organic matter. Primary foods (should always be available): Hardwood leaf litter (oak is excellent, magnolia leaves are reportedly a particular favourite) Soft, rotting wood Sphagnum moss (they'll graze on this) Bark pieces Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly): Fresh vegetables - carrots, courgette, cucumber, squash Soft plants (they enjoy nibbling on moss and soft-leaved plants) Protein sources - fish flakes, freeze-dried shrimp, dried mealworms Commercial isopod foods Calcium supplementation is particularly important for this species. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Crushed eggshells Calcium powder Maintaining calcium availability is crucial for breeding success - don't let supplements run out. Clown Isopods have hard exoskeletons that require plenty of calcium and protein for healthy moulting and reproduction. The freeze-dried shrimp/fish provides both and is an excellent supplement. Feed only what can be consumed within 2-3 days and remove uneaten fresh food promptly. In the drier conditions these isopods prefer, food spoilage is less rapid than in humid setups, but overfeeding can still attract pests like fungus gnats and mites. Appearance and Behaviour The Montenegro variety displays a dark grey to black base colour with distinctive red edging ("skirts") along the margins of each body segment. Scattered across the body are yellow, cream, or white spots in varying patterns - no two individuals look exactly alike. Adults reach approximately 18mm in length. They have the characteristic rounded, pill-shaped body of Armadillidium species and can roll into a complete, gapless ball when threatened. The striking colouration is believed to be Batesian mimicry of the Mediterranean black widow spider. By resembling a dangerous species, these harmless isopods may gain protection from predators who avoid them out of caution. Behaviourally, Clown Isopods are notably shy and secretive. They're primarily nocturnal, doing most of their foraging at night. During the day, expect them to stay hidden under bark, in leaf litter, or burrowed into the substrate. They won't be as visible as more confident species, but this secretive nature is entirely normal. They're social animals that live in clusters, using group behaviour to regulate their microenvironment and provide collective protection. Despite their shyness, they're peaceful and show no aggression toward tank mates. Once established and comfortable, colonies become more active and visible, particularly at higher population densities. The initial adjustment period just requires patience. Habitat A plastic storage container (6-8 quart) or glass terrarium (5-10 gallons) works well for a starter colony. Ventilated enclosures are essential - if using a plastic tub, drill plenty of holes and cover them with fine mesh to prevent escapes. Ventilation is critical for this species. More airflow than you'd provide for tropical isopods. Without adequate ventilation, enclosures become stagnant, encouraging mould growth and potentially causing colony crashes. Temperature should be maintained at 21-27°C. For breeding, aim for the higher end (23-26°C). They tolerate typical household temperatures well. Humidity should follow a strict gradient. Approximately one-third damp (30-40% in that area), two-thirds dry to bone-dry. This is different from most isopod setups and is essential for Clown Isopod health. They cannot tolerate uniformly humid conditions. Hiding spots are essential for these shy isopods. Provide cork bark, wood pieces, and generous leaf litter on both the wet and dry sides. They'll spend most of their time hidden, so plenty of cover helps them feel secure. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight, and don't use misting systems that would create uniformly high humidity. Substrate Mix The substrate setup for Clown Isopods differs from typical tropical isopod enclosures due to their need for a sharp moisture gradient. For the dry section (approximately 2/3 of enclosure): Coconut coir (allowed to dry) Sand mixed in for drainage Dry leaf litter on top Cork bark and wood pieces for hides For the moist section (approximately 1/3 of enclosure): ABG mix or moisture-retentive substrate Sphagnum moss layer Damp leaf litter Throughout: Softwood pieces (rotting preferred) Calcium supplements (cuttlebone pieces) Cork bark for hiding Generous leaf litter coverage Substrate depth should be at least 5cm (2+ inches) to allow for burrowing and hiding. These isopods will dig into the substrate, particularly in the moist area. The key is keeping the wet and dry sections distinctly separate. Water only the moist corner - pouring a small amount along the sides rather than misting the whole enclosure. The dry section should remain genuinely dry, not just "less wet." Breeding Clown Isopods breed readily once established, though they're slower to get started than some species. Patience is essential - most keepers report 3-4 months before offspring begin appearing. For optimal breeding success, provide slightly elevated temperatures (23-26°C), maintain the proper moisture gradient, ensure constant calcium availability, and offer regular protein supplements. Breeding activity tends to peak during warmer months, with colonies becoming more prolific in summer. The American varieties reportedly breed somewhat faster than European ones, but all Klugii take time to establish. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch and give birth to live young. The tiny mancae can be raised alongside adults without issue. As the colony grows, you'll notice increased activity and visibility - established colonies are noticeably more confident than new ones. Once breeding begins in earnest, colonies can become quite prolific. However, cultures can crash if care requirements slip, so maintain consistent attention to ventilation, moisture gradient, and calcium supplementation even after the colony is established. Adding fresh bloodlines and substrate every 6-12 months can help prevent colony crashes and maintain genetic health.

Crabby Isopods (Cubaris sp.): The Captivating Cave Dwellers Crabby Isopods are an extraordinary species of Cubaris that have captured the hearts of isopod enthusiasts worldwide. Originating from the mysterious limestone caves of Thailand, these remarkable crustaceans bring a unique charm to any terrarium or bioactive setup. Their distinctive appearance and fascinating behaviour make them a prized addition to any serious collector's menagerie. Species Overview Place of Origin: Thailand Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Subphylum: Crustacea Order: Isopoda Family: Armadillidiidae Genus: Cubaris Species: Cubaris sp. "Crabby" Key Care Requirements Maintenance Effort: Medium Ideal Temperature Range: 72°F-80°F (22°C-27°C) Reproduction Rate: Slow to Moderate Ventilation: High General Size: 15-18mm Rarity Level: Rare Humidity Range: 70%-80% Preferred Diet: Leaf litter, vegetables, protein supplements Essential Supplements: Limestone, cuttlefish bone, calcium powder Natural Habitat and Behaviour In their native Thailand, Crabby Isopods inhabit the cool, humid environment of limestone caves and karst formations. These underground sanctuaries provide the perfect combination of high humidity, stable temperatures, and abundant calcium sources that these remarkable creatures require to thrive. Like most Cubaris species, Crabby Isopods are naturally shy and secretive creatures. They spend much of their time burrowing through substrate layers and hiding beneath cork bark, emerging primarily during nighttime hours to forage for food. This fossorial behaviour makes them excellent candidates for bioactive vivarium setups where they can fulfil their natural role as ecosystem engineers. Physical Characteristics These medium-sized isopods display the characteristic charm that has made Cubaris species so popular among collectors. Their robust exoskeleton provides protection whilst their distinctive colouration helps them blend seamlessly into their cave environment. Like other members of the Armadillidiidae family, they possess the ability to roll into a protective ball when threatened, earning them the classification as true "pill bugs". Adult Crabby Isopods typically reach 15-18mm in length, making them substantial enough to observe their fascinating behaviours whilst remaining manageable in captive environments. Their segmented bodies and prominent antennae give them an endearing appearance that has captivated hobbyists worldwide. Diet and Nutrition As natural detritivores, Crabby Isopods play a crucial ecological role in breaking down organic matter. In captivity, their diet should consist primarily of aged leaf litter and decaying hardwood, which form the foundation of their nutritional needs. Understanding their feeding habits is essential for maintaining a healthy colony. Supplement their natural diet with small portions of organic vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and squash. High-quality protein sources like fish flakes, dried shrimp, or specialised isopod pellets should be offered 2-3 times per week to support healthy moulting and reproduction. Calcium supplementation is absolutely critical for Crabby Isopods. Provide limestone chunks, powdered calcium, cuttlefish bone, or crushed eggshells to replicate the calcium-rich environment of their natural limestone caves. This mineral supplementation supports proper exoskeleton development and successful moulting cycles. Creating the Perfect Enclosure Successfully keeping Crabby Isopods requires replicating their natural cave environment. Start with a well-ventilated plastic container of at least 6-quart capacity for a starter culture. Proper ventilation is essential - create multiple airflow holes covered with fine mesh to maintain air circulation whilst preventing escapes. The substrate should be at least 6 inches deep to accommodate their burrowing behaviour. Use a moisture-retentive mix combining organic compost, leaf mould, and decomposed hardwood. Add a layer of sphagnum moss in one section to create humidity gradients and hiding opportunities. Furnish the enclosure with cork bark pieces, limestone chunks, and abundant leaf litter. These elements serve multiple purposes: providing hiding spots, creating microclimates, offering food sources, and supplying essential calcium. The setup should mimic the layered environment of their natural cave habitat. Temperature and Humidity Management Maintain temperatures between 72-80°F (22-27°C) to keep your Crabby Isopods active and healthy. Avoid dramatic temperature fluctuations, as these can stress the colony and impact reproduction rates. A consistent warm environment encourages natural behaviours and steady growth. High humidity levels of 70-80% are essential, but ensure adequate ventilation to prevent stagnant air and mould issues. Monitor moisture levels carefully - the substrate should feel damp but never waterlogged. Create a moisture gradient with one end slightly drier to give isopods options for thermoregulation. Breeding and Colony Development Crabby Isopods reproduce at a moderate pace once established, typically producing small broods of 5-15 offspring. Females carry their eggs in a marsupium (brood pouch) for approximately 4-6 weeks before releasing miniature versions of the adults called mancae. Successful breeding requires stable conditions, adequate nutrition, and minimal disturbance. Young isopods remain with their mother for several weeks, receiving nourishment and protection during their vulnerable early stages. Building a thriving colony takes patience, but established cultures can provide years of enjoyment. Care Difficulty and Considerations Crabby Isopods are classified as medium-difficulty species, making them suitable for keepers with some prior isopod experience. They require more attention to environmental parameters than beginner species but are more forgiving than the most challenging Cubaris varieties. Success with this species depends on maintaining consistent conditions, providing proper nutrition, and understanding their shy nature. They prefer minimal handling and disturbance, thriving best when left to establish their own routines within a well-designed habitat. For newcomers to the hobby, consider starting with beginner-friendly species before advancing to these more specialised Cubaris varieties. However, dedicated keepers who research proper care techniques will find Crabby Isopods to be rewarding and fascinating terrarium inhabitants. Why Choose Crabby Isopods? These remarkable creatures offer a unique combination of beauty, behaviour, and biological function that makes them standout additions to any collection. Their role as bioactive cleanup crew members makes them invaluable in naturalistic setups, where they continuously work to process organic waste and maintain healthy substrate conditions. Beyond their practical benefits, Crabby Isopods provide endless opportunities for observation and study. Their complex social behaviours, moulting cycles, and reproductive strategies offer insights into the fascinating world of terrestrial crustaceans. Whether you're selecting species for your collection or seeking unique additions to your terrarium, Crabby Isopods represent an excellent choice for dedicated enthusiasts ready to provide the specialised care these remarkable creatures deserve. Shipping Information Isopods are posted Monday to Thursday using Royal Mail's next day by 1pm service Plus 20% overcount sent with every order 24/7 live chat available - We are always here and happy to chat! (subject to sleeping) Helpful Resources Cubaris Isopod Care: A Comprehensive Guide What Do Woodlice Eat? Top Foods and Feeding Habits Explained Top Isopod Species for Your Vivarium How to Choose the Right Isopod Species Best Isopods for Beginners (UK Edition)

An essential calcium supplement for any invertebrate keeper. Our 100g bag of crushed oyster shell provides a natural, long-lasting source of calcium carbonate along with trace minerals including magnesium, sodium, iron, strontium, and other micro-elements. Calcium is one of the most important nutrients you can offer your invertebrates — without it, exoskeletons weaken, moults fail, and shells deteriorate. A 100g bag will last most keepers a long time, as only a small amount is needed per enclosure. Why Crushed Oyster Shell? All arthropods and molluscs rely on calcium to build and maintain their protective outer structures. Isopods, millipedes, snails, and crabs all undergo regular moulting or continuous shell growth, and each of these processes demands a reliable supply of calcium. Crushed oyster shell is one of the best ways to deliver it — it breaks down slowly, won't foul your enclosure, and unlike egg shells, it doesn't attract mites. Your invertebrates will use their mandibles to gradually break down and consume the shell fragments over time, giving them a steady, sustained source of calcium between top-ups. Which Invertebrates Benefit? Crushed oyster shell is a versatile calcium source that benefits a huge range of species commonly kept in the hobby: Isopods (All Genera) Calcium is critical for all isopods. As terrestrial crustaceans, they have a chitin-and-calcium-carbonate exoskeleton that is shed regularly as they grow. Without adequate calcium, moults can fail and exoskeletons become soft and deformed. Armadillidium – Roly-poly species like A. vulgare, A. maculatum (Zebra), A. klugii (Clown), and A. gestroi have thick, domed exoskeletons that demand high calcium intake. These species in particular benefit from having crushed oyster shell consistently available. Porcellio – Active, fast-growing species such as P. scaber, P. laevis (Dairy Cow), P. ornatus, and the larger Spanish species like P. expansus, P. hoffmannseggi, and P. bolivari moult frequently and need a reliable calcium source to keep up with their rapid growth. Cubaris – Premium species like Rubber Ducky, Panda King, and other Cubaris varieties need calcium to support healthy moulting and colony development, especially given their slower reproduction rates. Porcellionides – Powder isopods (P. pruinosus morphs) breed rapidly and moult often, making a constant calcium supply essential to sustain fast-growing colonies. Ardentiella (ex Merulanella), Cristarmadillidium, Oniscus, Venezillo, Trachelipus, Troglodillo & others – Every isopod genus in the hobby benefits from supplemental calcium. It should be treated as a non-negotiable staple in every enclosure. Millipedes Millipedes have a hardened, calcified exoskeleton made up of dozens of segments, and they add new segments with every moult throughout their lives. Calcium deficiency is one of the most common causes of weak, pitted, or deformed exoskeletons in captive millipedes. Species like the Giant African Millipede (Archispirostreptus gigas), Spirostreptus, and other commonly kept genera will readily consume crushed oyster shell mixed into their substrate. In the wild, millipedes actively seek out and chew on calcium-rich rocks and mineral deposits — crushed oyster shell replicates this in captivity. Giant African Land Snails (GALS) & Other Land Snails Snail shells are made almost entirely of calcium carbonate, so calcium supplementation isn't optional — it's essential for survival. Without it, shells become thin, pitted, cracked, and prone to breakage. Crushed oyster shell can be mixed into the substrate or offered in a shallow dish, and snails will actively seek it out. It works brilliantly as an alternative or complement to cuttlebone for all land snail species including Achatina, Lissachatina, Cornu, and garden snail species. Hermit Crabs Hermit crabs rely on calcium for healthy exoskeleton development and successful moulting. Crushed oyster shell is one of the most commonly recommended calcium sources in the hermit crab hobby — many keepers find their crabs consume it more readily than cuttlebone. It can be offered in a dish or mixed into the substrate. Cockroaches & Beetles Dubia roaches, hissing cockroaches, and other feeder or pet roach species benefit from calcium supplementation, particularly breeding females. Beetle larvae and adults with calcified exoskeletons also benefit from having oyster shell available in their substrate. How to Use For isopods: Sprinkle a small amount into the enclosure — either directly onto the substrate surface or in a food dish. Top up as it gets consumed, typically every few weeks. For millipedes: Mix into the substrate so your millipedes can graze on it as they burrow. You can also place small piles on the surface near feeding areas. For snails: Offer in a shallow dish or mix into the top layer of substrate. Snails will find it and consume it as needed. For hermit crabs: Place in a calcium dish within the enclosure alongside other calcium sources. What You Get 100g of 100% natural crushed oyster shell. No additives, no chemicals — just pure, clean oyster shell.

Crystal Pineapple Isopods, also known as Cristarmadillidium muricatum 'Crystal Pineapple', are one of the rarest and most unique small species of isopods. Native to Spain, these crystal pineapple isopods are known for their distinctive, spiky, yellow to orange appearance that resembles a pineapple. Their unique look and manageable care requirements have made them highly sought after by exotic pet enthusiasts. Scientific Name: Cristarmadillidium muricatum 'Crystal Pineapple' Other Common Name: European Spiny Isopod, Crystal Pineapple Isopod Origin: Spain Size: Adults reach 6-8mm; a variety of sizes may be included in each order Difficulty level: Medium Breeding rate: Normal Temperature: 64℉ to 75℉ Rarity: High Humidity: 50% to 70% (Dry arid environment) Favorite food: decaying leaves, rotting white wood, molting of invertebrates and reptiles Supplements: cuttlefish bone, limestone Stock: Our captive-bred stock is available in limited quantities, with a variety of sizes and ages to suit breeders and hobbyists. Receive: You will receive a mix of sizes and ages, including adults and juveniles, to help establish a healthy breeding colony. Orders: Orders are processed and grouped for dispatch once a week; please note the cut-off time for timely delivery. Cristarmadillidium muricatum crystal pineapple: Introduction The Crystal Pineapple Isopods, often referred to as "crystal pineapples," are a visually distinctive species known for their pale coloration and unique appearance. Native to the Mediterranean region of Spain, these isopods are quite shy and prefer to hide under leaves and cork bark, becoming active during nighttime and early mornings. Compared to other isopods, crystal pineapples stand out due to their rarity, smaller size, and specific care requirements. While many other isopods thrive in higher humidity, this species prefers a dry, well-ventilated environment to ensure proper moulting and overall health. Their preference for a less moist environment compared to other isopods makes ample airflow and lower humidity levels essential for their care. Their striking features and colour are what make them unique from other species. They are rare and are a tad bit difficult to take care of. Due to its tiny appearance, it needs to be handled with care. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Characteristics and Traits Has a spiky exoskeleton that resembles a pineapple. Adults of this small species reach 6-7mm in length, making them one of the smallest isopods. Adults play a key role in breeding colonies, contributing to the growth and sustainability of the population. They are nocturnal; therefore, they are active during the night and early mornings. The isopods roll into a ball when they sense danger. They have a light yellow to washed-out orange color, which is different from other bright-colored isopods. They are hardy and easy to breed on decayed leaves and rotting wood. Like other Spanish species, these prefer a less moist environment with plenty of airflow, thriving in dry and arid conditions. When maintained at the desired temperature and humidity, it enables breeding and producing large broods. These species require plenty of air circulation in their enclosure to mimic the environment. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Diet As detritivores, these roly polys consume pretty much everything. But in captivity, providing various types of food is important. Leaf litter is an essential part of their diet, providing both nutrition and habitat. Suitable foods include leaves, rotten wooden bark of oak, and white wood, which will help provide nutrition as well as a habitat for the creatures. Ensure a balanced diet with a variety of foods to promote optimal health. Vegetable scraps and vegetables like carrots and cucumbers help to provide necessary nutrition. It is crucial to add protein twice a week in their diet, therefore fish food, molting of other reptiles and invertebrates and dried shrimp is added for protein. Substitutes like cuttlebone and limestone provide a rich source of calcium which is necessary for this species. It is crucial to avoid feeding food that has no salt in it and wooden bark and leaves have no pesticide. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Basic Care and Maintenance To maintain the thriving population, it is crucial to provide basic care for the isopods. People who are pets to these creatures require timely care and attention. Check and make sure the temperature of the enclosure is maintained regularly. It is important to make sure that the temperature falls within their ideal range. Though these creatures prefer a dry atmosphere, it doesn't mean a desert-like atmosphere. Providing moisture on parts that have sphagnum moss helps to retain and provide necessary hydration. For additional information about how live plants can benefit isopod enclosures, see Keeping live plants with your isopods. Make sure to maintain the humidity at the ideal humidity level for the isopods to thrive. To maintain a healthy environment, it is important to clean the enclosure and remove any remaining food bits within the substrate. Make sure to occasionally add supplements like oyster shells and cuttlebone for better nutrition. Monitor the size of the brood and make sure to provide another enclosure if the species are overpopulated. This helps to prevent overcrowding and competition among species for food and other resources. Maintain the enclosure free of fruit flies, molds, gnats, and other harmful parasites that may affect the population. Providing timely supplements into the enclosure for the species to have a healthy exoskeleton. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Natural Habitat and Moist Environment Compared These crustaceans are native to the Mediterranean region of Spain. Their natural habitat is dry and arid, with less moisture and plenty of ventilation. These critters do require water but in very small quantities. Though these isopods are quite versatile, it is important to mimic their natural habitat. This helps to provide an optimal environment for the breeding and health of the isopods. Crystal Pineapple Isopods: Artificial Setting Creating a suitable environment in an artificial setting is important. It helps to maintain optimal health and bring out their natural character for hobbyists to admire and observe.  The isopods have to be kept in a shoebox-size enclosure. The temperature must be maintained around 18℃ to 24℃, which is ideal for the critters to breed and for optimal health. Since they are from an arid region, the setting should mirror their natural habitat. Even though these isopods prefer arid, they still need hydration. Therefore, adding sphagnum moss helps retain moisture in the artificial setting.  These species prefer plenty of airflow in the enclosure. When setting up an artificial setting, it is important to invest in an enclosure with ventilation. The ventilation needs to be small or covered with mesh to prevent these creatures from escaping. If opting for a DIY method, make sure to drill small holes around the enclosure above the substrate to maintain the microclimate of the artificial setting.  Premium substrate mixes for isopods are available in stores, which helps provide a perfect mix of elements. If you're interested in taking your isopod care further and potentially breeding your isopods for profit, proper substrate is a great starting point. These elements include: Flake soil Organic potting soil Oyster seashell   Adding the substrate mix provides a perfect base for the artificial setting. Make sure to provide a thick bed of around 3 inches to provide ample space for the creatures to hide and dig. When adding the substrate, opt for an isopod substrate mix, which provides a complete base for the enclosure. Add leaves on the substrate along with limestone rocks to the substrate. For hydration, add sphagnum moss to the side of the box instead of covering the whole enclosure. Make sure to provide wooden bark as well to provide hiding space and mimic the natural environment. Since these species are shy in nature, therefore cork bark flat helps to provide hiding space for the isopod brood. Adding dried leaves and limestone also acts as a hiding space as well as provide necessary nourishment for the isopods. By taking these steps, one can create a perfect environment for the Crystal Pineapple Isopods to reproduce and thrive well.

Cubaris Black Diamond Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a striking species from Thailand, notable for their dark grey to purplish colouration with distinctive white or yellow tail sections. Originating from the cool, humid limestone caves of Southeast Asia, these larger-bodied Cubaris prefer temperatures on the cooler end compared to many tropical isopods. They're a rewarding species for keepers with some experience, though they do require attention to temperature stability and humidity levels. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Black Diamond" Difficulty Level: Medium Average Size: 14mm Rarity: Very Rare Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 70-80°F (21°C-27°C) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favourite food: Mango, carrots, vegetables Supplements: Crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone Black Diamond Isopods: Introduction Black Diamond isopods are cave-dwelling Cubaris that have adapted to the cool limestone environments of Thailand. Unlike many tropical Cubaris species that thrive in warmer conditions, Black Diamonds actually prefer cooler temperatures and can become stressed or experience higher mortality rates if kept too warm. They're typically observed in small groups in the wild, traversing moist cave floors and rocky surfaces. Black Diamond Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics These are one of the larger Cubaris species, reaching approximately 14mm at maturity. Their exoskeleton displays a beautiful dark grey to purplish hue, with contrasting white or yellow colouration on the tail segments. Like other Cubaris, they possess the ability to roll into a ball when threatened. Their colouration makes them visually distinct from other species in the hobby. They are relatively shy and prefer to stay hidden, making adequate cover essential. Breeding rate is moderate compared to some of the more prolific species. Black Diamond Isopods: Diet Black Diamond isopods are detritivores like all isopods, feeding primarily on decaying organic matter. In captivity, they've shown a particular fondness for mango and carrots, alongside the standard isopod diet. Calcium is essential for healthy exoskeleton development and moulting. Provide sources such as crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone, or powdered eggshells. Given their limestone cave origins, calcium supplementation is particularly important for this species. Protein should be offered regularly to support breeding and overall health. Dried shrimp, fish flakes, and commercial isopod food mixes work well. Leaf litter forms the foundation of their diet. Provide pesticide-free oak, magnolia, or other hardwood leaves throughout the enclosure. Black Diamond Isopods: Habitat Creating the right environment is crucial for Black Diamond isopods, particularly regarding temperature: Temperature: This is critical - Black Diamond isopods prefer cooler conditions between 60°F-75°F (15°C-24°C). Higher temperatures can cause stress and increased mortality. This makes them unsuitable for heated reptile enclosures. Humidity: Maintain 70-80% humidity with a moisture gradient - one side wetter with sphagnum moss, the other drier. Substrate: Use a deep substrate mix (at least 2.5 inches) incorporating organic matter, leaf litter, and limestone pieces. Avoid coco coir as the primary substrate for Cubaris - a soil-based mix with added limestone is more appropriate. Hiding spots: Provide plenty of cover using flat cork bark, rotten wood, and leaf litter. These isopods are shy and will spend most of their time hidden. Ventilation: Keep ventilation low to maintain humidity, but ensure some airflow to prevent stagnation. Black Diamond Isopods: Behaviour Black Diamond isopods are secretive creatures that prefer to remain hidden. Don't expect to see them often - they'll spend most of their time beneath substrate, cork bark, and leaf litter. They're not particularly interactive pets and are best suited to keepers who appreciate observing natural behaviours rather than handling. Their moderate breeding rate means colonies establish slowly. Patience is required, and disturbing the enclosure frequently can set back breeding efforts. Who Are Black Diamond Isopods Suited For? These isopods are best suited for keepers with some prior Cubaris experience who can provide stable, cooler conditions. They're not ideal for heated bioactive setups or for those wanting a fast-breeding cleanup crew. However, for collectors who appreciate unusual colouration and can meet their specific temperature requirements, Black Diamond isopods make a distinctive and rewarding addition to any collection.