The Burmese Beauty is a medium-sized millipede with striking olive green and orange banding that makes it one of the more attractive species in the hobby. Despite the name suggesting Myanmar, this species actually originates from Tanzania—the common name is a quirk of the trade. It's an active, hardy species that spends plenty of time on the surface, making it more visible than many millipedes that stay buried. At £6 per individual, it's an affordable entry point into millipede keeping with genuine visual appeal.
Species Information
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Scientific name: Spirostreptus sp. 1 (also listed as Spirostreptidae sp. 1)
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Common names: Burmese Beauty Millipede, Olive Banded Millipede, Globular Millipede, Tanzania Olive Millipede
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Origin: Tanzania (despite the "Burmese" name)
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Adult size: 12–15cm (approximately 5–6 inches)
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Lifespan: Up to 5 years with proper care
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Difficulty: Easy—suitable for beginners
Taxonomy Note
This species hasn't been formally classified, hence the "sp. 1" designation. The hobby uses numbered species to differentiate between unidentified Spirostreptus millipedes from different localities. "Burmese Beauty" is a trade name that's stuck despite the species originating from East African dry savanna regions, not Myanmar. You may also see it sold as "Olive Banded Millipede" or "Tanzania Globular Millipede."
Appearance
Burmese Beauty Millipedes are genuinely attractive. Their bodies feature wide olive green segments alternating with thin black bands. Along each black band runs an extremely thin stripe of metallic coppery iridescence that shimmers in the light—it's subtle but beautiful when you notice it. The legs and antennae are beige, providing further contrast.
Juveniles are more orange in colour, developing the characteristic olive green and orange "creamsicle" banding as they mature. Adults reach 12–15cm (some sources report up to 15cm), making them a medium-sized species—substantial enough to appreciate but not as large as the giant African species.
One distinctive behaviour: they coil three-dimensionally into a globe shape rather than the flat disc-shaped coil of many millipedes. This "globular" coiling is characteristic of the species and gives rise to one of its alternative common names.
Behaviour
This is an active species that spends considerable time on the surface, making it more rewarding to observe than many millipedes that stay buried:
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Surface active: Regularly seen exploring above the substrate, particularly during dawn, dusk, and night
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Climbers: They enjoy climbing and will use branches and bark in their enclosure
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Not excessively photosensitive: Adults tolerate light better than many species, though they're primarily crepuscular/nocturnal
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Burrowing: Will burrow into substrate, especially during moulting
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Docile: Generally calm and handleable, though they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed
Their willingness to be visible makes them excellent display animals. You'll actually see these millipedes rather than just knowing they're somewhere in the substrate.
Defence Mechanisms
Like all millipedes, Burmese Beauties can secrete defensive chemicals (benzoquinones) when stressed. The secretion is a brown/yellow fluid that can irritate skin and eyes. This species can secrete quite a lot for its size when stressed. Precautions:
- Handle calmly and minimise stress
- Wash hands thoroughly after handling
- Don't touch your face or eyes before washing
- The secretion isn't dangerous but can cause irritation
They cannot bite—millipedes have no biting mouthparts capable of harming humans.
Enclosure Setup
Enclosure Size
For adults or a group, provide:
- Minimum 30cm × 20cm × 40cm (length × width × height)
- Larger is better—they're active and will use the space
- Secure lid essential—millipedes are surprisingly strong
- Up to 10 millipedes can be housed in a 40cm × 40cm × 50cm enclosure
Substrate
Deep, nutrient-rich substrate is essential—millipedes eat it as their primary food source. Provide at least 10–12cm depth (some keepers recommend up to 20cm). This depth is important for:
- Burrowing and moulting (millipedes moult underground)
- Maintaining stable humidity and temperature
- Providing constant food source
Substrate recipe (recommended mix):
- 50% forest humus (top layer of soil from under deciduous trees)
- 20% aged leaf litter (brown, partially decomposed leaves)
- 20% shredded decaying hardwood (should crumble easily between fingers)
- 5% play sand or bird grit (NOT builder's sand)
- 5% ground cuttlebone or powite garden limestone
Critical: Never use anything from pine or other coniferous trees—the resins are harmful to millipedes.
Layer the substrate: compact the bottom 7–8cm slightly, then add the remaining 4–5cm more loosely on top.
Décor
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Climbing branches: Provide thick branches—they're not expert climbers but enjoy moving off the ground
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Cork bark: Hides and climbing surfaces
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Leaf litter: Layer on substrate surface
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Moss and lichen: On branches and surfaces—they'll graze on these
Ventilation
Cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould buildup. Ensure adequate airflow while maintaining humidity—mesh-covered vents on opposite sides work well.
Temperature
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Range: 22–26°C (72–79°F)
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Optimal: 24°C
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Room temperature: Average UK room temperature (around 20°C) is acceptable, though they'll be more active and breed better at 22–24°C
Important: DO NOT use heat mats under the substrate. Millipedes burrow to escape unfavourable conditions—a heat mat underneath traps them between heat and dry surface conditions. If heating is needed, use overhead heating or heat mats on enclosure sides.
Humidity
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Range: 65–80%
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Substrate: Moist to the touch but not waterlogged
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Maintenance: Regular misting, leaf litter and moss help retain moisture
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Avoid: Waterlogging and standing water in substrate
This species is relatively hardy regarding humidity and has good resistance to "foot rot" (a bacterial condition affecting millipede legs in overly wet conditions). However, proper moisture levels should still be maintained.
Diet
Millipedes are detritivores—they eat decaying organic matter. The substrate itself forms the bulk of their diet, which is why nutrient-rich substrate is essential.
Primary diet (from substrate):
- Decaying hardwood
- Decomposed leaf litter
- Organic matter in forest humus
Supplementary fresh foods:
- Cucumber (favourite)
- Melon
- Banana
- Cooked sweetcorn
- Oranges
- Other soft fruits and vegetables
Additional foods:
- Moss and lichen (place on branches—they'll graze on it)
- Flake soil
- Protein supplements occasionally (fish flakes, dried shrimp)
Calcium: Essential for exoskeleton health. Provide cuttlebone, crushed eggshells, or oyster shells. Ground limestone can be mixed into substrate.
Using a small ceramic dish as a designated feeding spot helps—millipedes will learn where fresh food appears.
Breeding
Burmese Beauty Millipedes breed readily in captivity when their basic needs are met:
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Sexing: Males have modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th segment, making this segment noticeably thicker than females
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Mating: Face-to-face, often remaining coupled for extended periods
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Eggs: Deposited in the substrate
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Young: Leave with adults—juveniles benefit from eating adult faecal pellets, which contain beneficial gut bacteria
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Maturity: Sexual maturity around 12–13cm (approximately 5 inches)
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Growth rate: Slow-growing but breeds readily once established
They're considered avid breeders when conditions are right. Some keepers report that a drying phase may help trigger breeding, mimicking the distinct rainy/dry seasons of their Tanzanian habitat.
Handling
Burmese Beauties are generally handleable but can be stress-prone:
- Handle gently and minimise duration
- Support their body—don't let them dangle
- Be aware they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed
- Wash hands after handling
- They may "pinch" slightly with their legs but cannot bite
Cohabitation
Can be housed with:
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Other Burmese Beauties: Social species, does well in groups
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Isopods: Good cleanup crew companions—avoid aggressively prolific species like Porcellionides pruinosus or Porcellio laevis that might disturb moulting millipedes; Cubaris and similar species work well
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Springtails: Beneficial for mould control
Care Summary
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Temperature: 22–26°C (room temperature acceptable)
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Humidity: 65–80%
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Substrate: Deep (10–20cm), nutrient-rich mix of humus, leaf litter, decaying wood, sand, calcium
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Diet: Substrate organic matter, supplemented with fruits, vegetables, calcium
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Enclosure: Minimum 30×20×40cm with climbing branches and good ventilation
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Heating: Never underneath substrate—side or overhead only if needed
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Lifespan: Up to 5 years
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Difficulty: Easy—good beginner species
Pricing
- 1 millipede: £6
- 5 millipedes: £25
- 10 millipedes: £40
Who Are They For?
Burmese Beauty Millipedes suit:
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Beginners: Hardy, forgiving, and affordable—excellent first millipede
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Display keepers: Active and visible with attractive colouration
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Breeders: Breeds readily in captivity
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Anyone wanting an interesting invertebrate: More engaging than many "pet hole" species
They're a genuinely good species for anyone interested in millipedes. The combination of attractive appearance, visible activity levels, hardy nature, and affordable price makes them one of the better entry points into millipede keeping. They're not as large as the giant African species, but their willingness to be seen and their striking olive-and-orange colouration more than compensates.
