Ivory Millipede (Chicobolus spinigerus) - also known as the Florida Ivory Millipede - is one of North America's most attractive native millipede species. Named for the distinctive ivory-white colouration along their sides, these millipedes are a brilliant entry point for anyone looking to keep their first millipede, or a solid addition for more experienced keepers wanting a hardy, active species.
Ivory Millipedes are detritivores that spend most of their time burrowing through substrate, breaking down organic matter and generally being fascinating to observe. They're one of the larger North American millipede species, reaching around 8-10cm when fully grown, and have a reputation for being docile, easy to handle, and genuinely forgiving of keeper mistakes.
A Glimpse
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Origin: Southeastern USA (Florida, Georgia, South Carolina)
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Scientific Name: Chicobolus spinigerus
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Difficulty Level: Easy
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Size: Up to 10cm (22-25mm currently)
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Temperature: 20 to 27°C
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Humidity: 65 to 75%
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Favourite Foods: Decaying leaves, rotting wood, vegetables, fruits
An Overview
Chicobolus spinigerus originates from the humid forests, wetlands and coastal areas of the southeastern United States, from Florida through to South Carolina. In the wild, they live beneath rotting logs and within the top layers of leaf litter, where humidity remains consistently high and food is plentiful.
These millipedes get their common name from the ivory-white colouration that runs along their lateral edges, contrasting with their darker brown or grey body. There's also a purple colour morph that matures into a striking black and white pattern.
Ivory Millipedes are considered a fast-growing species by millipede standards, reaching maturity at around 18 months compared to the 2-5 years typical of many other species. They're prolific breeders once established and can live anywhere from 5 to 10 years with proper care.
They make excellent bioactive tank inhabitants and work brilliantly alongside isopods and springtails, helping to break down organic waste and aerate the substrate.
Basic Care
- Ivory Millipedes are docile creatures that rarely show any defensive behaviour beyond curling into a tight spiral when disturbed.
- They may secrete a mild defensive fluid if handled roughly, so wash your hands after handling. This secretion isn't dangerous but can irritate sensitive skin.
- These millipedes are primarily nocturnal, so don't be surprised if you see more activity in the evenings.
- They're social creatures and do well in groups. No aggression between individuals means you can house multiple millipedes together without issue.
- Substrate depth is crucial - aim for at least 10-15cm to allow for proper burrowing and moulting behaviour.
- Good ventilation is important to prevent mould build-up, but balance this with maintaining humidity levels.
- When they moult, they may disappear into the substrate for up to a week. This is completely normal.
- Feeding
Millipedes are unique in that their substrate is their primary food source. This makes getting the substrate right absolutely essential - they'll spend most of their time eating decaying wood and leaves.
Beyond the substrate, you can supplement their diet with:
- Fresh vegetables (cucumber, courgette, carrot, lettuce, squash)
- Fresh fruits (banana, melon, orange) - sparingly, as high sugar content can cause issues
- Decaying hardwood leaves (oak, beech)
- Rotting white wood
- Fish flakes or pellets (for protein, once a week)
- Dried shrimp or minnows
- Calcium is essential for healthy exoskeleton development and successful moulting. Good calcium sources include:
- Cuttlefish bone
- Crushed eggshells
- Limestone powder
- Oyster shell
Remove uneaten fresh food before it goes mouldy - usually within 24-48 hours.
Appearance and Behaviour
Ivory Millipedes have a cylindrical body made up of numerous segments, each bearing two pairs of legs. Adults typically reach 8-10cm in length, though some individuals may grow slightly larger.
Their colouration consists of a dark brown or grey body with distinctive ivory-white edges running the length of the animal. This white "skirt" is what gives them their common name. Juveniles may show slightly different colouration that develops as they mature.
Males can be identified by examining the 7th body segment - instead of normal legs, males have modified gonopods (reproductive organs) which appear shorter or different from the surrounding legs.
Behaviourally, these are calm, slow-moving creatures. They spend most of their time burrowing through substrate and feeding. They're comfortable being handled and will slowly crawl over your hands and arms when given the opportunity. When threatened, they curl into a tight spiral to protect their vulnerable underside.
Habitat
- A minimum enclosure size of 20cm x 20cm x 20cm works for a small group, though bigger is always better.
- Substrate depth should be at least 10-15cm - deep enough for the millipede to completely burrow beneath the surface when moulting.
- Maintain good cross-ventilation to prevent mould while keeping humidity adequate.
- Temperature should be kept between 20-27°C. Room temperature works fine for most UK homes. Avoid using heat mats directly under the substrate.
- Humidity should stay around 65-75%. Mist lightly every 2-3 days and ensure the lower substrate layers remain moist.
- Add a thick layer of leaf litter on top of the substrate for shelter and additional food.
- Cork bark, branches and other climbing surfaces aren't essential but provide enrichment.
- Substrate Mix
The substrate is arguably the most important aspect of millipede husbandry - they eat it, live in it, and moult within it.
A good substrate mix should contain:
- 50% deciduous leaf litter humus (broken-down leaves from oak, beech or similar)
- 20% partially decomposed leaves
- 20% crumbled rotting hardwood
- 5% play sand or bird grit
- 5% ground cuttlefish bone or limestone powder
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Important: Avoid any substrates from pine or other coniferous trees. Some keepers recommend avoiding coconut coir as the primary component, as it offers little nutritional value to millipedes. If you do use coir, ensure it's mixed with plenty of decaying organic matter.
Keep the substrate moist at the bottom and allow the top layer to dry slightly. This creates a humidity gradient that allows the millipedes to self-regulate.
