Merulanella Isopods

A Glimpse Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Common Name: Cappu Cream Family: Armadillidae Origin: Thailand Adult Size: Up to approximately 20 mm Difficulty: Medium Temperature: 24–29°C Humidity: 75–85% Diet: Leaf litter, rotting wood, vegetables, protein supplements, moss, lichen Supplements: Cuttlebone or crushed limestone for calcium — essential for Cubaris Cappu Cream: Overview Cappu Cream is one of a growing number of coffee-themed Cubaris sp. morphs originating from Thailand. As with many of these newer trade-named varieties, specific documentation on this exact morph is limited — "Cappu Cream" doesn't appear widely in keeping databases or care guides as a separately established variety. What we can say is that it belongs to the broader group of Thai Cubaris that also includes Cappuccino, Latte, and similar coffee-inspired morphs, and its care requirements follow established Cubaris sp. husbandry. That's worth being upfront about. If you're buying these expecting to find a detailed species-specific care sheet online, you won't find one. What you will find is solid, well-tested care information for Thai Cubaris as a group, and that's what this description is based on. Like other Cubaris from Thailand, these isopods originate from limestone cave environments and the surrounding tropical forest floor. They're adapted to warm, humid conditions with access to calcium-rich substrates — understanding this natural habitat is the key to keeping them successfully. Enclosure A sealed plastic container (such as a 6-litre clip-lock box) with ventilation holes works well for a starter culture of 5. This is one of those setups where the balance between humidity retention and airflow matters — you need both. Drill or melt small ventilation holes in the lid or upper sides, but not so many that the enclosure dries out quickly. Cross-ventilation (holes on opposite sides) helps prevent stagnant air, which is a common cause of colony crashes in Cubaris. As the colony grows, move up to a larger container. There's no rush with Cubaris — they don't breed explosively, so a small starting enclosure won't become overcrowded for a long time. Substrate and Setup Provide a deep substrate layer — at least 7–8 cm. Cubaris like to burrow, and substrate depth gives them the humidity gradient they need (damper at the bottom, drier at the surface). Use organic topsoil mixed with crumbled white rotten hardwood and leaf litter. Oak and beech leaves work well. The substrate and leaf litter form a significant part of their diet, so quality matters. Limestone is important. Thai Cubaris originate from karst cave systems where limestone is everywhere. Adding pieces of limestone, crushed oyster shell, or cuttlebone to the enclosure provides both calcium for moulting and mimics their natural environment. Many keepers report that Cubaris are noticeably more settled and breed better when limestone is present — it's not just a supplement, it's habitat enrichment. Create a moisture gradient across the enclosure: keep one end consistently damp (a patch of sphagnum moss works well for this) and allow the other end to stay drier. This lets the isopods choose their preferred humidity level at any given time. Add cork bark pieces for hides. Cubaris appreciate enclosed spaces to retreat into, and cork bark is light, natural, and holds moisture well. Temperature and Humidity 24–29°C is the target range. These are tropical isopods that need warmth to thrive and breed. In a UK house, you'll likely need a heat mat on a thermostat during cooler months. Room temperature in summer may be sufficient depending on your home. Humidity should stay between 75–85%. The sealed container setup helps maintain this — mist lightly when the surface starts to look dry, but don't waterlog the substrate. Soggy conditions are as dangerous as dry ones for Cubaris. The moisture gradient mentioned above is your best tool here. Ventilation matters alongside humidity. Stagnant, humid air encourages mould and bacterial growth that can wipe out a colony. The goal is humid but not stuffy. Diet The substrate itself (leaf litter and rotting wood) is the primary food source — keep it well stocked and replenished as it breaks down. Supplement with: Vegetables: Cucumber, courgette, sweet potato, carrot — offered in small amounts Protein: Dried shrimp, fish flakes, or freeze-dried bloodworm — Cubaris are noticeably more protein-hungry than many other isopod genera. Offer protein once or twice a week Calcium: Cuttlebone left permanently in the enclosure, or crushed limestone/oyster shell mixed into the substrate Moss and lichen: Eaten and appreciated Remove uneaten fresh food within a day to prevent mould. In a warm, humid Cubaris enclosure, food spoils quickly. Breeding Cubaris as a genus breed more slowly than Porcellio or Porcellionides species. Expect smaller broods, longer intervals between them, and slower growth to maturity. This is normal — it's why Cubaris morphs tend to be more expensive than common isopod species, and it's why starting with 5 gives you a reasonable foundation without expecting overnight colony growth. Consistent warmth, humidity, and good nutrition are the keys to breeding success. Cubaris that are stressed, too cold, or underfed will simply stop reproducing. The most common mistake is inconsistency — allowing conditions to fluctuate significantly between checks. Patience is genuinely the main requirement. A healthy colony will grow, but on Cubaris time, not Porcellio time. What to Expect at £90 At £90 for 5, Cappu Cream sits in the premium Cubaris price range alongside other rare Thai morphs. For that investment, it's worth being realistic about what you're getting into. If you've successfully kept other Cubaris species — Cappuccino, Rubber Ducky, Panda King, or similar — you already understand the care requirements and the pace of colony growth, and Cappu Cream won't present any surprises. The care is fundamentally the same. If Cubaris is new to you, these aren't the ideal starting point. The combination of specific environmental needs (warmth, humidity, ventilation balance, limestone) and slow breeding means mistakes are expensive and slow to recover from. Consider starting with a more established and less costly Cubaris morph to learn the genus first, then move to rarer varieties once you're confident in your setup. A Note on Naming The isopod hobby has a lot of coffee-themed Cubaris morphs — Cappuccino, Latte, Cappu Cream, and others. These are trade names rather than scientific classifications, and the boundaries between them aren't always clearly defined. If you're collecting multiple coffee-themed morphs, it's worth keeping them in separate enclosures to maintain the integrity of each line, even if they look similar. Crossbreeding between morphs can produce offspring that don't reliably express either parent's colouration.

Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom" is one of the most visually stunning isopods in the hobby. Named for its soft pink and white colouration reminiscent of cherry blossom petals, this species stands out immediately in any collection. If you're looking for an isopod that genuinely makes people stop and say "wait, that's an isopod?" - this is the one. Cherry Blossom isopods are a selectively bred colour morph isolated from Cubaris sp. "Red Pak Chong" stock, with the original line developed in Japan. Interestingly, while the Japanese breeders named them "Cherry Blossom," American hobbyists often call them "Sakura" - which is just the Japanese word for cherry blossom. Full circle. These aren't beginner isopods. They're slow breeders, relatively sensitive to environmental fluctuations, and command a premium price. But for keepers who've cut their teeth on hardier species and want something genuinely special, Cherry Blossom isopods are absolutely worth the investment. A Glimpse Origin: Captive bred (selectively bred morph of Red Pak Chong lineage) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom" Difficulty Level: Medium Size: Up to 15mm Temperature: 22-26°C Humidity: 70-80% Rarity: Rare An Overview Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom" emerged from selective breeding of the Red Pak Chong lineage - itself originating from the limestone caves and karst formations of Thailand's Pak Chong district. The original Cherry Blossom line was isolated in Japan, where breeders selected for the distinctive pastel pink colouration that sets this morph apart. What makes Cherry Blossom so desirable is the soft, almost ethereal pink tone across their bodies, complemented by paler segmentation. The effect genuinely does evoke cherry blossom petals, and it's unlike anything else in the isopod hobby. They maintain this colouration throughout their lives, making them a permanent centrepiece species rather than one that fades as they mature. Unlike some of the more sedentary Cubaris species, Cherry Blossoms are surprisingly active and curious. They'll explore their enclosure, and you'll often find some hanging about in the open rather than permanently burrowed away. This makes them more rewarding to observe than many other high-end Cubaris varieties. Like their Red Pak Chong relatives, Cherry Blossoms share the genetic heritage of cave-dwelling ancestors. This means they appreciate high humidity, stable conditions, and plenty of calcium in their diet to support healthy exoskeleton development. Basic Care These are tropical isopods that require consistent warmth and humidity. Temperature fluctuations and dry conditions can stress them quickly. They're burrowers by nature, so provide deep substrate (at least 7-10cm) to allow for natural behaviour. While they need high humidity, good ventilation remains important. Stagnant, overly wet conditions invite mould and can harm the colony. Aim for a balance - moist but not waterlogged, with adequate airflow. Cherry Blossoms are shy creatures. Provide plenty of hiding spots including cork bark, moss, and thick leaf litter. They particularly seem to enjoy hiding inside acorn caps if you can source them. Minimise disturbance. These aren't isopods you want to be constantly checking on or moving around. Set up the enclosure properly from the start and let them settle. Start with a reasonable group size (10+ individuals) to ensure genetic diversity and increase breeding success. Small starter groups can struggle to establish. Expect slow reproduction. This isn't Porcellio pruinosus - broods are smaller and less frequent. Patience is required. Feeding Cherry Blossom isopods are detritivores with the typical Cubaris diet, though they benefit from slightly higher protein than some other species. Primary food sources: Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia) - this should form the bulk of their diet Rotting white wood Sphagnum moss Supplementary foods: Fresh vegetables - particularly those high in carotenoids (pumpkin, carrot, sweet potato, corn, sweet peppers) which may help maintain colouration Fish flakes or dried shrimp (for protein, 2-3 times weekly) Soft fruits occasionally Lichen if available Calcium is essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide constant access to: Cuttlefish bone Limestone chunks Crushed eggshells Oyster shell Calcium powder Given their limestone cave origins, Cherry Blossoms have a higher calcium requirement than many species. Don't skimp on this. Remove uneaten fresh food within 24-48 hours to prevent mould. Appearance and Behaviour The defining feature of Cherry Blossom isopods is their distinctive pastel pink colouration, often with paler or cream-coloured segmentation that creates a delicate, blossom-like appearance. Adults reach approximately 15mm at maturity. They have the typical rounded, conglobating (ball-rolling) body shape characteristic of the Cubaris genus. When threatened, they'll curl into a tight ball - though well-established colonies in a settled enclosure rarely feel the need to do this. Behaviourally, Cherry Blossoms are more active than many Cubaris species. While they still spend plenty of time burrowed or hidden, you'll frequently see individuals exploring, especially during evening and nighttime hours. They're curious isopods that seem to enjoy investigating their environment. They're also faster movers than some of the more sedentary Cubaris varieties. This adds energy and interest to watching them but also means you need to be careful when opening the enclosure - they can make a dash for it if given the opportunity. Like all Cubaris, they're social and should be kept in groups. They coexist peacefully and there's no aggression to worry about. Habitat A secure enclosure is essential. While Cherry Blossoms aren't strong climbers on smooth surfaces, use a well-fitted lid to maintain humidity and prevent escapes. Size-wise, start with at least a 6-quart container for a small colony. Larger is better for established groups and allows for better humidity gradients. Temperature should be maintained at 22-26°C. Avoid temperatures below 18°C or above 28°C. Consistent warmth is more important than hitting a specific number. Humidity needs to be high - around 70-80%. The substrate should remain moist (not wet) at all times. One corner can be kept slightly drier to create a gradient. Ventilation is still important despite the high humidity requirement. Multiple small ventilation holes with fine mesh work well. Avoid completely sealed enclosures. Provide lots of hiding opportunities: cork bark flats, moss patches, thick leaf litter, and similar. The more secure they feel, the better they'll do. Lighting isn't critical. Ambient room light is fine. They're largely nocturnal but will come out during the day in a well-established colony. Substrate Mix Getting the substrate right is crucial for Cubaris species, and Cherry Blossoms are no exception. They need a moisture-retentive mix that mimics their natural environment while providing nutrition and burrowing opportunities. A good substrate mix consists of: 40% organic potting soil (pesticide-free) 30% coconut coir 20% sphagnum moss 10% leaf litter (mixed into substrate, with more layered on top) To this base, add: Rotting white wood pieces Limestone chunks or crusite Additional leaf litter on the surface (oak, beech, magnolia) Patches of live or dried moss Substrate depth should be at least 7-10cm to accommodate their burrowing behaviour. These isopods dig, and they need the space to do so comfortably. Maintain a moisture gradient: one end of the enclosure slightly damper than the other. This allows the isopods to self-regulate and find their preferred conditions. Mist regularly but avoid waterlogging - the substrate should be moist to the touch but not squelching wet. The limestone chunks serve double duty: they help buffer the substrate pH and provide an accessible calcium source that the isopods will graze on.

A brightly coloured morph of the Cubaris Sp. Panda King, these Citrus Panda Kings share all the advantages of a Panda King. A suitable species for people new to keeping slightly harder isopods, or even a beginner who is confident in keeping terrariums at the correct humidity. The appealing features of a Cubaris sp. Large enough to be visible, but small enough to thrive in a small enclosure, and relatively unfussy in terms of food.      • Origin: Vietnam     • Scientific Name: Cubaris Sp ‘Panda King’     • Difficulty Level: Easy     • Size:  10 to 18mm     • Rarity: Low/medium     • Temperature:  22°C to 28°C     • Humidity: 60% to 75%     • Diet: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables    The original populations of Panda Kings came from the limestone caves of Vietnam. Eventually, a red/orange morph appeared, where the black sections of the Panda King were replaced with a red/orange colour. From that, a further morph was isolated in these fully citrus-coloured isopods. However, they have a white margin to their rear segments that can be larger in some individuals.    The citrus panda king morph has occurred in several species of isopod, in some species it is known as variegated. Interestingly it seems that there may be other morphs that can be bred by crossing these to other colours, but the information on the exact genes isn’t clear.    Needing slightly higher humidity levels than others, and enjoying burrowing, it's crucial to provide a healthy layer of substrate, cork bark and wood as places to hide, and potentially the enclosure might need regular misting.    They require some extra calcium in their diet, and some variety, as with most species leaf litter can provide the bulk of their diet, but add in a variety of fruits and veg, as well as some good quality fish food.

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