A large Spanish Porcellio displaying the natural wild-type grey colouration with impressive uropods and a distinctive bumpy texture.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: A Glimpse
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Origin: Spain
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Scientific Name: Porcellio nicklesi
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Difficulty Level: Medium
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Size: Up to 20mm body length (30mm including uropods)
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Rarity: Medium-High
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Temperature: 18°C to 28°C
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Humidity: 45% to 55% (low humidity species)
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Favorite Foods: Decaying hardwood, leaf litter, vegetables, fish food
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Supplements: Calcium sources (cuttlebone, limestone), protein twice weekly
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: An Overview
Porcellio nicklesi is a Spanish cave-dwelling species that was originally described by Dollfus back in 1892. For a while, they were considered a subspecies of Porcellio bolivari, but they're now recognised as their own species. The "True Form" designation refers to the natural wild-type colouration, distinguishing these from the various selectively bred morphs like Rubivan, Tang, and Dark that have become popular in the hobby.
These are one of the larger Porcellio species available, and their most distinctive feature is their impressively long uropods (the tail-like projections at the rear). Males have noticeably longer uropods than females, making sexing adults relatively straightforward once you know what to look for.
They're not the easiest species to keep. P. nicklesi comes from dry mountainous regions and Spanish caves, and they have specific requirements around humidity and ventilation that catch out a lot of keepers. If you've successfully kept other large Spanish Porcellio, you'll probably do fine. If this is your first venture into "giant" Porcellio territory, be prepared for a learning curve.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Appearance
The True Form displays the natural grey to brown-grey colouration of wild specimens. They lack the striking whites, oranges, or high-contrast patterns of the selectively bred morphs, but there's something appealing about keeping the original wild-type form. The body has a slightly bumpy, textured appearance typical of the species.
Adults reach around 20mm in body length, but including those characteristic uropods, total length can reach an impressive 30mm. They're chunky isopods with presence, and watching a group of adults moving around an enclosure is genuinely impressive.
Unlike Armadillidium species, Porcellio nicklesi cannot roll into a ball. They're surface-dwelling isopods that rely on their speed and ability to wedge into tight spaces for protection.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Basic Care
This is where things get a bit tricky. There's a common misconception in the hobby that P. nicklesi and other large Spanish Porcellio should be kept bone dry. This isn't quite accurate and has probably killed more of these isopods than any other mistake.
The Reality of "Dry" Species
Yes, they prefer lower humidity than many other isopods. No, they don't want to be kept completely dry. In their natural habitat within Spanish caves and rock crevices, humidity can actually be quite high in the microhabitats where they shelter, even if the surrounding environment is arid.
All isopods breathe through modified gills on their undersides, and these need moisture to function. Keep them too dry and they'll desiccate. The key is providing excellent ventilation alongside access to moisture.
Temperature: Room temperature works well, anywhere from 18°C to 28°C. They're not fussy about temperature as long as it's stable.
Humidity: This is the critical factor. Keep overall humidity low (45-55%) but provide a localised moist area they can access. About one-fifth of the enclosure should have damp moss or substrate. The rest should be dry. Never let the moist area dry out completely, but never let it get waterlogged either.
Ventilation: Essential. These isopods need good airflow to prevent stagnant, humid conditions. Cross-ventilation with vents on opposite sides of the enclosure works best. Stale air combined with moisture will cause problems quickly.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Feeding
P. nicklesi are detritivores with a preference for decaying hardwood and leaf litter. They're not fussy eaters once established, but getting the diet right supports healthy moulting and reproduction.
Primary Food Sources:
- Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech)
- Decaying white rotting wood
- Flake soil
Rotting hardwood seems particularly important for large Spanish Porcellio. Many keepers find that providing plenty of decaying wood makes a noticeable difference to colony health and breeding success.
Supplemental Foods:
- Vegetables (carrot, courgette, sweet potato)
- Fruits occasionally
- Fish flakes or freeze-dried shrimp for protein (1-2 times weekly)
Calcium: Important for healthy moulting. Provide:
- Cuttlebone
- Limestone pieces
- Crushed oyster shell
Place protein-rich foods on the dry side of the enclosure as they spoil quickly in moist conditions. Remove uneaten food within 24 hours.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Substrate
A well-draining substrate mix works best. You want something that won't hold excessive moisture but still provides the right texture for burrowing and hiding.
A suitable mix might include:
- Organic topsoil as a base
- Coconut coir for moisture retention in the damp area
- Sand for drainage
- Rotting hardwood pieces throughout
- Leaf litter covering the surface
- Limestone or calcium sand mixed through
Substrate depth should be around 5-6cm. Add pieces of cork bark and hardwood for additional hides and climbing surfaces.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Enclosure Setup
Size Matters
Large Porcellio need space. A minimum of 6 litres for a starter colony, but larger is better. Males can be territorial, and crowding causes stress that leads to die-offs. 12+ litres is preferable for an established colony.
Ventilation Setup
This is critical. Use large mesh vents rather than drilled holes. Position vents on opposite sides of the enclosure to encourage air movement across the setup. Leave a gap of at least an inch between the top of the substrate and the lid to prevent stagnant air pooling.
Humidity Gradient
Set up your enclosure with approximately 80% dry area and 20% moist area. The moist corner should have damp sphagnum moss covering bark and leaf litter. Water can be added directly to the moss rather than misting the whole enclosure. The rest of the setup should stay dry.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Breeding
P. nicklesi are seasonal breeders and won't reproduce year-round like some easier Porcellio species. Expect most breeding activity during warmer months.
They're not especially prolific compared to species like P. laevis, and colony growth is steady rather than explosive. Mancae (juveniles) are particularly sensitive to conditions and need reliable access to moisture without the substrate being wet. Many colony crashes happen because the mancae dry out.
Maturity takes around 6-9 months depending on conditions. Once a colony is established and breeding well, they can produce medium to large litters. But getting to that point requires patience and attention to their specific needs.
Porcellio Nicklesi (True Form) Isopods: Common Mistakes
Keeping them too dry: The number one killer. They need moisture access despite being a "low humidity" species.
Poor ventilation: Stagnant humid air causes mould, mites, and die-offs. Cross-ventilation is essential.
Too small an enclosure: Large Porcellio need space. Cramped conditions stress them and lead to problems.
Wet substrate: They can't tolerate soggy conditions. The moist area should be damp, not wet.
No rotting wood: Seems to be important for these species. Don't skimp on decaying hardwood in the setup.
Who Are These Isopods For?
P. nicklesi True Form are a good choice for:
- Keepers with experience in large Porcellio species
- Those interested in the wild-type form rather than selectively bred morphs
- Hobbyists who can provide the specific ventilation and humidity requirements
They might not suit:
- Complete beginners to isopod keeping
- Those wanting a set-and-forget species
- Keepers looking for rapid population growth
- Anyone without the ability to provide good ventilation
If you're newer to isopods, consider starting with more forgiving species like Porcellio scaber or Porcellio laevis before tackling P. nicklesi. Once you've got the basics down, these can be a rewarding step up in complexity.
What's Included
Each order contains healthy specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to give your colony the best start. A care sheet is provided with every order covering the specific requirements for this species.
