PostPods
Hoffmannseggii white antenna isopods (Porcellio)
£20.00
Porcellio hoffmannseggii "White Antenna" is a striking morph of the Titan isopod, distinguished by its bright white antennae contrasting against the typical grey body with white skirting. Like all hoffmannseggii, these are large, robust isopods reaching 3-4cm, native to the Mediterranean regions of Spain. They prefer drier conditions than most isopods and display notable territorial behaviour, particularly among males. The White Antenna morph adds visual interest to an already impressive species, making them popular with collectors seeking something distinctive.
A Glimpse
Origin: Spain (Mediterranean region)
Scientific Name: Porcellio hoffmannseggii "White Antenna"
Maintenance required: Medium
Average Size: 3-4 cm
Rarity: Medium
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Temperature: 18-26°C (65-80°F)
Ventilation: High
Humidity: 30-50% (drier than most species)
Favorite food: Decaying hardwood, vegetables, protein sources
Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells
Porcellio hoffmannseggii White Antenna: Introduction
Porcellio hoffmannseggii, commonly called Titan isopods, are among the largest terrestrial isopods kept in the hobby. The "White Antenna" morph retains the impressive size and hardiness of the species while adding a distinctive feature—bright white antennae that stand out prominently against their darker body colouration.
Native to Mediterranean Spain, hoffmannseggii naturally inhabit rocky, arid environments quite different from the humid forest floors preferred by many isopod species. This gives them care requirements that run counter to typical isopod husbandry—they actually prefer conditions that would stress humidity-loving species.
The White Antenna trait breeds true when the morph is kept separate from other hoffmannseggii variants. If you're maintaining this morph for its distinctive appearance, avoid mixing with standard grey or orange morphs, as the offspring will be unpredictable.
Porcellio hoffmannseggii White Antenna: Physical Traits and Characteristics
Adults reach 3-4 cm in length—substantial for terrestrial isopods
Grey body colouration with characteristic white skirting along the edges
Distinctive bright white antennae (the defining trait of this morph)
Robust, heavily built body
Hard, segmented exoskeleton
Cannot fully conglobate—body shape prevents complete rolling
Males tend to be broader and more heavily built than females
Uropods (tail sections) differ between sexes—males have longer uropods
The white antennae create genuine visual contrast, particularly when the isopods are active and their antennae are prominently displayed while exploring.
Behaviour
Porcellio hoffmannseggii display distinctive behavioural traits that set them apart from many commonly kept isopods.
Territorial nature: Males are notably territorial and will actively chase off other males. This isn't subtle posturing—they can be genuinely aggressive with each other. Adequate space and multiple hiding spots are essential to prevent constant conflict. Females are considerably more tolerant of each other.
Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will venture out during the day once established. Their size makes them easier to observe than smaller species.
Colony dynamics: Unlike species that form dense, peaceful colonies, hoffmannseggii maintain personal space. Juveniles tend to establish their own territories as they mature. This means colonies spread out rather than clustering tightly together.
Maternal behaviour: Females show protective behaviour toward offspring, guarding them through their first two moults. This extended maternal care is notable among Porcellio species.
Temperament: While territorial with their own kind, they're not aggressive toward keepers. They may attempt to flee when handled but won't bite or cause harm.
Diet
Porcellio hoffmannseggii have hearty appetites and slightly different preferences compared to many isopods.
Primary foods:
Decaying hardwood (preferred over leaf litter—they genuinely favour rotting wood)
Dried leaf litter as supplementary material
Cork bark
Supplementary foods:
Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato, squash
Occasional fruits in moderation
Fish flakes or dried shrimp for protein
Dried mushrooms
Protein requirements: Higher than many isopod species. Regular protein supplementation supports growth, moulting, and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, and similar protein sources should be offered regularly, not just occasionally.
Calcium: Essential for healthy moulting. Their large size means significant calcium demands. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, crushed oyster shell, or calcium powder as a constant supplement.
Feeding approach: Despite their size, they don't consume enormous quantities. Offer amounts they can finish to avoid food waste and potential mould issues. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours.
Porcellio hoffmannseggii White Antenna: Breeding
Breeding hoffmannseggii is straightforward once conditions are right, though their territorial nature requires management.
Sexing: Males and females can be distinguished by their uropods (the tail sections). Males have noticeably longer uropods than females. Males also tend to be broader and more robust.
Breeding requirements:
Stable temperature within preferred range (18-26°C)
Appropriate humidity gradient (30-50% with moisture access)
Good ventilation
Adequate space to reduce territorial stress
Sufficient protein and calcium for gravid females
Brood characteristics: Average brood sizes when conditions are stable. Females carry developing young in their marsupium and release fully formed juveniles.
Maternal care: Females protect offspring through their first two moults—longer parental investment than many isopod species show.
Colony management: Their territorial nature means growing colonies need space. As populations increase, consider dividing colonies or providing larger enclosures. Overcrowding leads to stress and aggression, particularly among males.
Maintaining the morph: To preserve the White Antenna trait, keep this morph separate from other hoffmannseggii variants. Mixed populations will produce offspring with unpredictable antenna colouration.
Porcellio hoffmannseggii White Antenna: Habitat Setup
Getting the enclosure right means understanding their preference for drier, well-ventilated conditions.
Enclosure: A well-ventilated container or terrarium. Minimum 15 litres for a starter colony, larger for established groups. Given their territorial nature, more space reduces conflict. Cross-ventilation is important—multiple ventilation points work better than a single mesh lid.
Substrate: Use a substrate suited to their drier requirements:
Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free)
Sphagnum peat moss mixed in sparingly
Sand for improved drainage
Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout
Leaf litter layer on top
Decaying hardwood pieces (essential—they prefer wood over leaves)
Substrate depth of at least 5cm allows burrowing. They're fond of digging, so provide enough depth for this behaviour.
Humidity gradient: This is critical for hoffmannseggii. They need access to moisture but prefer predominantly dry conditions:
Keep approximately 25% of the enclosure moist (a corner with damp sphagnum moss)
Keep the remaining 75% dry
Overall humidity 30-50%
Allow them to self-regulate by moving between zones
A common mistake is keeping the entire enclosure too moist. These isopods come from arid Mediterranean environments—uniform high humidity causes problems.
Ventilation: High ventilation is essential. Good airflow prevents humidity building up and keeps conditions within their preferred dry range. Multiple ventilation holes or mesh sections on different sides create cross-ventilation.
Décor and hides: Given their territorial behaviour, provide multiple separate hiding spots:
Cork bark pieces and tubes
Flat bark sections
Wood pieces in various sizes
Hardwood pieces (which also serve as food)
Scattered hides throughout the enclosure
Space hides so individuals can establish territories without constant confrontation.
Temperature: 18-26°C (65-80°F). They're not tolerant of temperature extremes—avoid both cold snaps and excessive heat. Room temperature in most UK homes works well, but monitor during very hot or cold weather.
Bioactive Use
Porcellio hoffmannseggii White Antenna can function in bioactive setups suited to their requirements.
Best suited for:
Arid or semi-arid bioactive enclosures
Mediterranean-style vivariums
Enclosures for desert-dwelling reptiles
Setups where visible, impressive cleanup crew is desired
Advantages:
Large size makes them genuinely visible
Thrive in dry conditions that stress humidity-loving species
Effective decomposers
Impressive appearance adds interest to displays
Considerations:
Territorial behaviour means they need adequate space
Not suitable for high-humidity tropical setups
Their drier requirements limit compatible enclosure types
Higher value than standard cleanup crew species
Less ideal for:
Tropical or high-humidity bioactive setups
Small enclosures without adequate space
Situations requiring dense, peaceful colonies
Suitability
Porcellio hoffmannseggii White Antenna suit intermediate keepers wanting an impressive, distinctive species.
Good choice for:
Keepers wanting large, visible isopods with distinctive features
Those maintaining arid or semi-arid setups
Collectors seeking hoffmannseggii morphs
Bioactive setups for desert-dwelling reptiles
Keepers with some experience ready to manage territorial species
Not ideal for:
Complete beginners (start with hardier, less territorial species)
High-humidity tropical setups
Small enclosures without adequate space
Those wanting dense, peaceful colonies
Care level: Medium difficulty. They're not finicky about parameters within their preferred range, but their dry requirements run counter to typical isopod husbandry advice. Keepers accustomed to humidity-loving species need to resist the urge to keep things too moist. Their territorial nature also requires more space and management than peaceful species.
Compared to other hoffmannseggii morphs: Care requirements are identical to standard grey and orange morphs. The choice between morphs is purely aesthetic. If keeping multiple morphs, maintain separate colonies to preserve each variant's distinctive appearance.
Expectations: Expect impressive, watchable isopods that behave differently from peaceful colony species. Their territorial interactions add behavioural interest but mean colonies look different from the tight clusters seen with species like P. scaber. Growth and breeding are steady rather than explosive.
PostPods
Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods (Armadillidium sp)
£20.00
Introducing the Armadillidium Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods, a striking and unique isopod species perfect for enthusiasts and collectors alike. Known for its characteristic triangular head pattern and robust body, this species stands out with its fascinating appearance and behavior. Native to Mediterranean regions, the Armadillidium Frontetriangulum is well-suited for bioactive setups, thriving in environments with varied humidity levels. Its captivating look and relatively easy care make it an excellent addition to any isopod collection
A Glimpse
Origin: Greek Island
Scientific Name: Frontetriangulum corfuensis
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Size: Up to 2 to 3 cm
Rarity: Rare
Temperature: 20°C to 25°C
Humidity: 70% to 80%
Favourite Food: Decomposing leaves, wood, fish flakes
An Overview
Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods are famous for their unique appearance and behaviour. They thrive in lush, moist environments, and the island's rich biodiversity offers a unique habitat for them.
Regarding their appearance, Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods have flattened bodies and are available in different colours. They play a crucial role in the ecosystem by breaking down decomposed matter and contributing to nutrient cycling.
When kept in captivity, they serve as excellent scavengers and help to maintain a clean environment. This means you don't have to clean the terrarium regularly.
Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods: Basic Care
You must follow the instructions to take care of Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods.
To keep Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods as pets, you must provide them with a spacious enclosure. In this case, you can use a large terrarium so that they have enough space to move around. The best option would be a 20-gallon tank, which can easily accommodate a small colony of isopods.
When choosing a terrarium for your isopods, ensure it has a good ventilation system so air can pass through it properly. This will also help prevent the growth of mould within the enclosure.
The ideal temperature range is between 20°C and 25°C. You can maintain this temperature by using heater pads but do not overheat the terrarium, as this can harm your isopods.
It is important to check the temperature inside the terrarium regularly. You can use a thermometer for this.
To maintain the right humidity level, you should mist the substrate regularly or place a water dish inside the enclosure. This will achieve 70% and 80% humidity, respectively.
With the help of a hygrometer, you can measure the humidity level inside the terrarium.
To mimic the natural habitat for your isopods, you can use coconut coir, leaf litter, and sand. This substrate mix not only helps retain moisture but also allows the isopods to burrow.
Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods: Feeding
When it comes to feeding Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods, you must provide them with a balanced diet consisting of various items. For their primary diet, you can provide decaying leaves and wood. Even oak leaves are a great choice; they break down slowly and provide essential nutrients.
You can provide small amounts of fish flakes or other isopod foods to fulfil their protein requirements. This is a good way to enhance their reproductive function and growth.
Some people think that overfeeding isopods makes them healthier, but that is not the case. It is important to provide the correct amount of food and keep them well. You should also remove uneaten food from the terrarium so they don't end up eating too much. This way, you can maintain a clean environment and prevent mould growth inside the enclosure.
Feeding fresh vegetables to your isopods can benefit their health in many ways. You can offer small pieces of veggies like carrots or zucchini occasionally.
Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods: Appearance And Behaviour
Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods have a unique appearance, which makes them more attractive than other isopod species.
These isopods have a flat body with a smooth surface. They are also available in a wide range of colours, including brown and green.
Due to their body's unique colouration, they can easily blend into their natural surroundings. In other words, it helps them to camouflage and protect themselves against predators.
Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods are quite social and prefer to live in colonies.
An interesting thing about these isopods is that they are nocturnal, meaning they are not active during the day.
These isopods require hiding places like leaf litter or substrate, where they can sleep and relax.
Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods: Habitat
To keep your isopods healthy, it is essential to mimic their natural habitat. Frontetriangulum Corfu isopods thrive in moist, shaded areas where there's no sunlight. You can create a similar environment for your isopods by using leaf litter and decomposing wood.
You will likely find various options when choosing a terrarium for your isopods. But you should choose a model that offers both vertical and horizontal space. Once you have the terrarium, you can add hiding spots for your isopods by using bark, rocks, and live plants. This way, you can mimic their natural environment and also provide security.
You can add a small dish of water to provide moisture and maintain the correct humidity levels. For light, you can use a daylight bulb, which helps simulate the natural day/night cycle. But make sure not to overheat or dry out the substrate.
Frontetriangulum Corfu Isopods: Substrate Mix
Creating the right substrate mix is crucial for the well-being of your isopods. It helps retain moisture and provides a natural environment for burrowing.
One of the best substrate bases is coconut coir, which retains moisture well and provides a soft surface for the isopods to move through.
You must also add a mix of dried leaves so your isopods can use it as a hiding place. You should also add a small amount of sand or organic soil to help improve the drainage system.
When setting up the terrarium for your isopods, place coconut coir at the bottom and leaf litter on top. This will create a thriving environment for your tiny pets and encourage their natural behaviours, which also mean that their life expectancy will extend further.
PostPods
Porcellio Expansus Orange Isopods
£35.00
The Expansus Orange Isopods are a striking and robust species, known for their bright orange coloration and large size. These isopods are popular among collectors for their active behavior and adaptability in bioactive enclosures. Native to Mediterranean regions, they thrive in environments with moderate humidity and good ventilation. Their size and vibrant appearance make them a standout addition to any isopod collection, and they play a vital role in maintaining healthy ecosystems by breaking down organic material. Ideal for both beginners and experienced hobbyists
Expansus Orange Isopods: A Glimpse
Origin: Europe
Scientific Name: Porcellio expansus
Difficulty Level: Medium
Size: 3.5 cm
Rarity: Medium
Temperature: 20°C to 25°C
Humidity: 60% to 80%
Favourite Foods: Leaves, wood, vegetables, fruits, fish flakes, and shrimp pellets
Expansus Orange Isopods: An Overview
Expansus Orange happens to be one of the most captivating isopod species out there. They are native to tropical and subtropical regions of Europe and are known for their stunning orange-coloured exoskeleton. This is one of the major reasons behind the popularity of these isopods among terrarium and vivarium enthusiasts.
Many hobbyists keep them as pets because of their lovely colour and large size, which sets them apart from other isopods. Even though these isopods are a bit rare than other species, they can be found in different regions in Europe. The best thing about these isopods is that they are easy to care for. Unlike other isopod species, you don’t have to do much to care for them.
For those who don’t know, Expansus Orange plays a crucial role in breaking down organic material, making it a great cleaner for bioactive enclosures. These isopods can thrive in a range of temperatures and humidity levels, making them more versatile than other species.
If you want to keep isopods, Expansus Orange could be a great choice, especially for those with less experience with these creatures. In comparison to other isopods, Expansus Orange is more docile and social.
Expansus Orange Isopods: Basic Care
To keep your isopods in good health, you must follow these instructions. Here’s what you need to do:
For Expansus Orange, you can use a small to medium-sized terrarium. Just make sure that it has a lid so you can prevent these tiny creatures from escaping the enclosure.
Whether you choose a terrarium or a plastic container, ensure enough space for the isopods to move around.
The ideal temperature range for Expansus Orange is between 20°C and 25°C, so you need to ensure that the temperature doesn’t fluctuate much. You can use a low-wattage heat lamp or heat mat to maintain a consistent temperature inside the terrarium.
Humidity levels need to be between 60% and 80%. You can easily achieve this by misting the enclosure with water.
Proper ventilation is also important for the terrarium; otherwise, it may get mouldy, harming your isopods.
These isopods are shy in nature, so you should create hiding spots inside the enclosure. You can use stones, leaf litter, and cork bark to create multiple hiding spots for these tiny creatures.
Expansus Orange Isopods: Feeding
In comparison to other isopods, Expansus Orange has a much simpler diet. Since they are omnivorous, you can feed them decaying organic matter and protein-rich foods.
The best food choices are fruits and vegetables like apples, carrots, and cucumbers. You can also give vegetation a mixture of decaying wood, leaf litter, and bark.
You must also provide protein-rich foods to your isopods, especially during moulting. You can rely on food items like fish flakes, cooked chicken, and shrimp pallets.
For calcium, you can give them a small piece of cuttlebone or powdered calcium. It is better to sprinkle the powder on their food so that it is easier for them to eat.
Expansus Orange Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour
The first thing you will notice about Expansus Orange is its striking orange-coloured exoskeleton. Plus, it is much bigger in size than other isopods. Because of these reasons, many hobbyists choose Expansus Orange over other isopods.
So that you know, an adult Expansus Orange can grow up to 2 cm. They have oval-shaped bodies with proper segmentation and a hard exoskeleton that protects them from predators.
In terms of behaviour, Expansus Orange are non-aggressive and peaceful. Since they are nocturnal creatures, they prefer to live in dark, damp places. They become more active at night, the perfect time to search for food and explore their surroundings.
Expansus Orange Isopods: Habitat
If you plan to keep Expansus Orange as pets, it is important to create a proper habitat for them. This means creating an environment similar to their natural habitat. These isopods are found under moist, decaying leaf litter, logs, and rocks in the wild. Therefore, you need to provide a substrate that can retain moisture.
Since Expansus Orange thrives in humid environments, it is important to maintain high moisture levels. To this end, you should mist the substrate regularly but not overdo it.
It is also important to maintain the ideal temperature between 20°C and 25°C. Additionally, you must put cork bark, stones, and other items to create a nice shelter for your isopods. These things mimic their natural environment and provide a safe hiding place when disturbed.
Expansus Orange Isopods: Substrate Mix
Substrates are one of the most important things to worry about when keeping isopods. You cannot just use any substrate mix you like. For Expansus Orange, you should use a substrate that can retain moisture for a long time. This will help you regulate the humidity and temperature levels inside the enclosure.
Checkout our guide here for info on what we do here at PostPods for substrate.
Additionally, you can add small pieces of decaying wood, which provides a place to hide. After preparing the substrate, ensure it is at least a few inches deep so your isopods can burrow. These isopods spend much time digging into the substrate to find shelter.
PostPods
Trachelipus Caucasius Isopods
£20.00
Trachelipus caucasius is a hardy isopod species originating from the Caucasus region, found around the Black Sea coasts of Russia, Georgia, and Turkey. Sometimes called "Trilobite isopods" due to their body shape, they display attractive grey colouration often accented with orange edging along the segments. At 2-4 cm when fully grown, they're a substantial species that's easy to observe, and their tolerance for a range of temperatures combined with straightforward care makes them a practical choice for keepers at all experience levels.
A Glimpse
Origin: Caucasus region (Russia, Georgia, Turkey - Black Sea coastal areas)
Scientific Name: Trachelipus caucasius
Maintenance required: Low
Average Size: 2-4 cm
Rarity: Medium
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Temperature: 18-26°C (64-79°F)
Ventilation: Medium to High
Humidity: 60-75% (with moisture gradient)
Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying hardwood, vegetables
Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, eggshells
Trachelipus caucasius: Introduction
Trachelipus caucasius comes from the subtropical climate zones around the Black Sea, where conditions include warm summers, mild autumns, and cold winters. This natural environment has made them adaptable to a broader temperature range than many tropical isopod species—they'll handle cooler conditions that would stress more sensitive species, while also thriving in warmer setups.
Their common nickname "Trilobite isopods" comes from their body shape, which has a segmented, somewhat flattened appearance reminiscent of the ancient trilobite fossils. Combined with their grey colouration and orange-edged segments, they have a distinctive look that sets them apart from more commonly kept species.
They're considered beginner-friendly due to their tolerance for varying conditions and willingness to breed in captivity. For keepers wanting something slightly different from the standard Porcellio or Armadillidium species without demanding care requirements, Trachelipus caucasius are worth considering.
Trachelipus caucasius: Physical Traits and Characteristics
Large species, with adults reaching 2-4 cm in length
Grey base colouration across the body
Orange or amber-coloured edging along segment margins in many individuals
Somewhat flattened body profile compared to rounder Armadillidium species
Segmented appearance contributing to the "trilobite" nickname
Hard exoskeleton providing protection
Cannot fully conglobate (roll into a complete ball) like Armadillidium—they rely on speed and finding cover
Prominent antennae and visible uropods
Behaviour
Trachelipus caucasius are active, adaptable isopods with a peaceful temperament.
Activity levels: Once established, they're reasonably active and visible. Their larger size makes them easy to spot when foraging, and they don't hide as constantly as some more secretive species.
Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with other isopod species and terrarium inhabitants. They're not predatory and won't cause problems in mixed setups.
Temperature tolerance: Their subtropical origins mean they handle temperature variation better than tropical species. They can tolerate cooler conditions (down to around 15°C for short periods) without significant stress, though they thrive best in the 18-26°C range. This makes them suitable for unheated enclosures in many UK homes.
Defence: They can't roll into a complete ball like Armadillidium species. When threatened, they rely on moving quickly to find cover.
Settling in: Generally adaptable and settle into new enclosures without extended adjustment periods.
Diet
Trachelipus caucasius are detritivores with undemanding dietary requirements.
Primary foods:
Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, hawthorn, and similar hardwoods)
Decaying hardwood
Cork bark
Wood pieces
Supplementary foods:
Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato, cucumber
Dried vegetable scraps work well
Fish flakes for protein
Small amounts of fruit occasionally
Calcium: Important for healthy moulting, especially given their larger size. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or eggshells as a constant calcium source.
Feeding approach: They're not fussy eaters. Maintain a base of leaf litter and decaying wood, supplementing with vegetables every few days. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours. Their size means they have reasonable appetites, but don't overfeed—let them work through what's provided before adding more.
Trachelipus caucasius: Breeding
This species breeds well in captivity, with a reputation for reliable reproduction under appropriate conditions.
Breeding basics:
Females carry eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles
Breeding rate is good—they're considered fast breeders
Brood sizes are reasonable given their larger adult size
Population growth is steady under proper conditions
Conditions for breeding:
Stable temperature within preferred range (18-26°C)
Appropriate humidity with moisture available
Adequate calcium for breeding females
Sufficient hiding spots
Consistent food availability
Colony growth: Expect reliable population growth without the frustrating waits associated with slow-breeding species. They're productive breeders that will build colony numbers consistently.
Trachelipus caucasius: Habitat Setup
Enclosure: A medium to large container suits this species well given their size. A 15-20 litre container works for a starter colony, with larger enclosures beneficial as populations grow. Good ventilation is important—their subtropical origins mean they appreciate airflow.
Substrate: Use a moisture-retentive substrate that can maintain a humidity gradient:
Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free)
Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention
Leaf litter worked into the substrate and layered generously on top
Decaying hardwood pieces
Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout
Substrate depth of 5-10 cm allows for some burrowing and helps maintain stable moisture levels at lower depths.
Moisture gradient: They prefer humid conditions but benefit from having both moist and drier areas available. Set up approximately half the enclosure with damp substrate and sphagnum moss, allowing the other half to stay somewhat drier. This lets them regulate their moisture needs.
Overall humidity: Aim for 60-75%. They need access to moisture but aren't as humidity-dependent as tropical cave-dwelling species. Regular misting of the humid side maintains appropriate conditions.
Ventilation: Medium to high ventilation suits this species. Their subtropical climate origins mean they're accustomed to airflow. Use mesh lids or plenty of ventilation holes. Stagnant, overly humid conditions aren't ideal for them.
Décor and hides:
Cork bark pieces and tubes
Flat bark and wood pieces
Leaf litter coverage (they appreciate generous amounts)
Hardwood branches
Stones or slate pieces
Moss patches in the humid area
Provide plenty of natural hiding spots. They'll utilise cover throughout the enclosure and feel more secure with options available.
Temperature: They tolerate a good range (18-26°C), making them suitable for room temperature conditions in most UK homes. They can handle cooler temperatures better than tropical species—brief drops to 15°C won't cause major problems, though consistent warmth promotes better breeding. Avoid sustained temperatures above 28°C.
Bioactive Use
Trachelipus caucasius work well as cleanup crew in appropriate bioactive setups.
Advantages:
Larger size makes them efficient decomposers
Peaceful temperament allows cohabitation
Temperature tolerance suits varied bioactive environments
Hardy nature means they establish reliably
Good breeding ensures population maintenance
Suitable setups: Their temperature flexibility makes them suitable for a range of bioactive enclosures—from temperate setups to warmer tropical environments. They're particularly useful where temperature may fluctuate seasonally or where other species might struggle with cooler periods.
Considerations:
Larger adults may be visible in display enclosures (advantage or disadvantage depending on preference)
Cannot roll into a ball, so may be more vulnerable to predation by some reptiles than conglobating species
Mixed cleanup crews: They coexist peacefully with springtails and other isopod species. Their different niche and peaceful nature makes them suitable for diverse cleanup crew combinations.
Suitability
Trachelipus caucasius are suitable for keepers wanting a hardy, attractive species with minimal fuss.
Good choice for:
Beginners wanting something slightly different from common species
Keepers in homes with variable temperatures
Those wanting a larger, visible isopod species
Bioactive setups requiring temperature-tolerant cleanup crew
Collectors building diverse collections
Not ideal for:
Keepers specifically wanting conglobating (ball-rolling) species
Extremely high-humidity tropical setups (better options exist)
Care level: Low difficulty. They're forgiving of husbandry variations, tolerate temperature fluctuation, breed reliably, and don't have demanding requirements. A good choice for developing isopod-keeping skills or for maintaining functional colonies without constant attention.
Value: Good value for an attractive, larger species. They offer interesting appearance and reliable breeding at a reasonable price point, making them practical for both collection and functional bioactive use.
PostPods
Phoenix Isopods (Ardentiella sp.)
£80.00
Phoenix Isopods have their origin in Vietnam. Their name is based on their appearance. They exhibit the colour variations of red, black and yellow, which are predominant in the mythical bird phoenix. They are considered a superb display species. They are extremely rare to find. Once they are established in the enclosure, they can easily be bred. Care needs to be taken regarding the enclosure, as these species are more active than most other species of isopods.
Key Points
Origin: Vietnam
Scientific Name: Merulanells sp. Phoenix
Difficulty Level: Hard
Size: 2CM Max.
Rarity: Rare
Temperature: 18-24˚C
Humidity Level: Medium
Preferred Foods: Leaf litter, decayed wood, cuttlefish bone, limestone, etc.
An Overview
Phoenix Isopods are a highly colourful species of isopods. The hard exoskeleton provides both protection and aesthetic appeal to these isopods. The colouration of the exoskeleton makes them a significant choice for the enclosures. They are a highly active category of species. They need large spaces within the enclosures to move around. They have a very similar appearance to that of Merulanella tricolor isopods. But they are different in several aspects.
The original climate these species are accustomed to is tropical. Hence, they require moisture and plenty of ventilation to survive in an enclosure. They can tolerate humid environments easily. Care should be taken because their temperatures should
stay high enough and stay cool.
Phoenix isopods are extremely rare to find. Hence, they are a species of isopods in demand by several collectors. Once established in a vivarium, they breed comparatively similar to most other species of isopods.
The general pattern followed by merulanella isopods for feeding must also be followed for Phoenix isopods. Hence, decaying wood and leaf litter forms the basic diet for these isopods. Cuttlefish bone, fish food, limestone, etc., can act as supplements to improve their growth.
Phoenix Isopods: Basic Care
Phoenix Isopods can be taken care of through the following points:
The tropical origin of Phoenix isopods allows them to survive in hot environments. They can also withstand some amount of coldness.
Isopods coming from tropical environments require moisture to stay close to their origins.
Phoenix isopods require a solid enclosure, and they are extremely rare to find. Hence, they are an advanced species for seasoned collectors.
Their breeding capability is at par with most other species of isopods.
Due to their tropical origins, Phoenix isopods require a great level of ventilation.
Burrowing is a popular practice with these isopods. Hence, they prefer to have hiding spots within their enclosure.
Preferred diet choices include leaf litter, decaying wood, cuttlefish bone, fish bone, etc.
The ideal room temperature for these species ranges between 18-24˚C.
Phoenix Isopods: Feeding
This particular species of isopods has a variety of food items to choose from. Even though they are considered an advanced species that is extremely rare to find, they are found under tropical conditions. Hence, their staple diets includes both leaf litter and decaying wood. Their dietary patterns are similar to many other species of isopods.
A perfect environment should complement the diet these isopods follow in their consumption. Leaf litter and decaying wood are ideal for their consumption. These basic items are helpful for the longer survival of these isopods. The collector can provide additional supplements according to their own choice. The only factor to note is that it should be provided regularly. Vegetable peels, dried vegetables, fish food, etc., can be provided for these isopods regularly. They find moisture levels okay for their survival. But it should not exceed the levels of possible mold growth.
Protein and calcium supplements can be provided depending on the collector's requirements. Cuttlefish bone, limestone, and fish food are all excellent supplements that can help these species of isopods grow well. Many of these products can be collected naturally or bought from diverse sources.
Phoenix Isopods are considered a very active species of isopods. They require large, spaced enclosures to scourge the area actively. Ventilation is another vital aspect that must be noted before breeding these species.
Phoenix Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour
Like many other isopods, phoenix isopods are also gifted with hard exoskeletons.
The exoskeletons are both protective and exotic.
They have the maximum growth close to 2 CM.
Their exotic appearance is a gift of their diverse coloured patterns.
This appearance makes them a species that is in high demand.
They require a lot of ventilation in the space that they are kept. This is mainly due to their natural environment being tropical.
Moisture retention is also considered a vital aspect of caring for these isopods.
They breed at good rates once established.
Phoenix Isopods: Habitat
Habitats are crucial aspects for the development of any isopods. As these are collected species from natural environments, the enclosures where they are kept should be replicated similarly to their origins. Providing basic habitat is a relatively easy task for any collectors. Phoenix isopods are extremely rare to find, even within their original habitats. But they are a species that can be maintained easily. Ensuring a proper habitat will result in more isopods breeding faster.
Humid environments are highly preferred by Phoenix isopods. As their origin is tropical, they can tolerate room temperature easily. A thermometer should be regularly used to assess the room temperature of the habitat. An important factor is that the temperature should not exceed or decrease beyond the expected level of 18-24⁰C. It can adversely affect their metabolism.
Maintaining moisture within the enclosure is a practice that should be kept for the ideal survival of these species. Supported by a number of hiding spots can enable the strong breeding of phoenix isopods in large numbers.
Phoenix isopods are a heavily active species of isopods. Providing them ample space within the enclosure is crucial for their breeding.
Phoenix Isopods: Substrate Mix
Just like every other isopod, substrate mixtures are available for Phoenix isopods as well. Both natural substrates and artificial substrates are available for these isopods. Some of the options for a natural substrate mix include- leaf litter, decaying wood, dried vegetables, etc. Artificial substrate mixtures will consist of both protein and calcium supplements that can enhance their growth.
The most important factor to consider in utilizing substrates is that it should ensure the survival of all species within the enclosure. Substrates should not hinder the development of any other species. Natural supplements like leaf litter and decaying wood should be completely pesticide-free to ensure that no toxic chemicals are present within the environment.
Burrowing is a popular activity within these species. Hence, providing ample hiding spots is important for their breeding. As part of their protein and calcium supplements in substrate, cuttlefish bone, fish food, limestone etc., should be provided. These food items can improve their growth to greater levels.
PostPods
Tri Colour Isopods (Ardentiella sp.)
£110.00
Compared to other isopods, Ardentiella tricolour isopods are rarely sighted. They require warmer temperatures and stable environments for their survival. They make a brilliant display species.
Tricolour Isopods: A Glimpse
· Origin: Vietnam
· Scientific Name: Merulanella sp.
· Difficulty Level: Medium
· Size: 13MM to 0.55 IN.
· Rarity: Low/ Medium
· Temperature: 20⁰C to 26⁰C
· Humidity: 60-70%
· Favourite Foods: Fruits, Vegetables
Tricolour Isopods: An Overview
Merulanella Tricolour Isopods are a species of terrestrial isopods. They are commonly called pill bugs or woodlice. As the name suggests, they have a very peculiar colouration. They are highly distinct from other species of isopods. They mostly have a tricolour pattern, which includes shades of yellow, black and red.
A hard exoskeleton covers their oval-shaped body. They are gifted two pairs of antennae. They have seven pairs of legs. Their natural habitat is found to be around tropical and subtropical regions. Their distribution is thus minimal. They are most likely found in the tropical areas. This limitation in their distribution makes them a less-encountered species of isopods.
To feed tricolour isopods, the best options are a mix of vegetables, fruits, and decaying leaves. Fish flakes and commercial isopod food can be provided as supplement feeds. They rely on moist environments for their survival.
Tricolour Isopods: Basic Care
The following instructions can be helpful in providing the best care for Tricolour isopods.
· Provide a suitable habitat- Combining organic materials like sphagnum moss, leaf litter and coconut fibre can create a moist substrate ideal for their habitat.
· Maintaining dampness-Excessive moisture should be avoided as it is harmful for tricolour isopods.
· Hiding spots- This provides more naturality to the enclosure. They behave more naturally when they feel secure.
· Temperature- An ideal temperature of 20-26 degree should be maintained.
· Humidity- Humidity levels should be between 60-70%.
· Diet- A balanced diet plant matter, invertibrates and fungi should be fed to the isopods to ensure their survival.
· Specialized diets available in the market can be used to feed them.
· Monitor the conditions regularly using thermometer and hygrometer.
· Since they can climb glass and plastic, their enclosures should not have openings near the lids and doors.
Tricolour Isopods: Feeding
Tricolour isopods are mainly identified as detritivores. They consume organic decaying matter. They can also feed on fruits, vegetables, leaf litter, rotting wood, etc.
They are crucial in breaking down dead plant material, contributing to nutrient recycling. To ensure their survival, providing them with an optimal environment is crucial. Leaf litter can be considered an easy source of food. Leaves from different trees can be collected and fed to them in their enclosures.
One of the main things to notice while feeding isopods is that the leaves should be pesticide-free. Other organic materials like fruits and vegetables are also considered ideal sources of energy for these isopods. Any food given has to be finely chopped or grated for easy consumption by isopods.
Tricolour isopods prefer protein rich foods as well. Crushed dog or cat food, shrimp pellets and fish are highly recommended for the welfare of the isopods. Excess consumption should be avoided in any case. If it happens, it might lead to specific health issues among them.
Whatever food the isopods consume, leftovers should be removed immediately. Mold can develop in leftover food, which can cause health issues among the tricolour isopods.
Tricolour Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour
· Tricolour isopods grow up to 0.55 Inches in length.
· The species' major color combinations are red, yellow and black.
· They make for a great display.
· They are found in groups of five to six.
· They require more warmer temperatures when compared to other isopod species.
· If kept under optimal conditions, they are adorable as pets.
· Once a colony is established for them, they live for a considerable period.
· Tricolour isopods are considered as prolific breeders. A single female produces a large number of females.
· Monitoring the reproductive patterns of these isopods is vital, as they are considered vulnerable in their reproductive phase.
Tricolour Isopods: Habitat
Providing an ideal habitat for tricolour isopods is fundamental for their survival. As pets, they make for a great display. An optimal environment has to be maintained in their enclosures to maintain their beautiful features and colour-patterns in their body.
Tricolour isopods survive in the ideal temperature of 20-27⁰C (70-78⁰F). Any temperature above or below this temperature can mess with their metabolism. Regular monitoring of temperature is required to maintain the optimal levels of temperature. The use of a thermometer is preferred for this. It is highly advised to use a heat map or heat lamp to regulate the levels.
People who make enclosures for tricolour isopods should also consider the required humidity levels. The ideal humidity level for the species is between 70-80%. A humidifier should be used to mist the enclosure daily. At the same time, excess moisture should be avoided. If the enclosure is moisturized excessively, mold growth might occur, which is harmful for the tricolour isopods. Along with a humidifier, a hygrometer should also be used to maintain the optimal humidity range.
Tricolour isopods are omnivorous creatures. They feed on a variety of organic matter, including decayed fruits and vegetables, shrimp pellets, fish, etc. They are known for their ability to crawl on both glass and plastic. Hence, the tiny gaps that might appear between doors and glasses should be sealed.
Tricolour Isopods: Substrate Mix
A substrate is an ideal substance that aids the growth of an organism. It can help provide or maintain the optimal environment for your pet creatures. In the case of tricolour isopods, using the correct substrate mixture is crucial. The mixture should be provided accordingly since these isopods are mainly found in tropical climatic conditions.
Tricolour isopods require a substrate that retains moisture. Leaf litter is seen as the most ideal form of substrate for this purpose. Leaves can be easily collected from a variety of trees to provide the ideal shelter for tricolour isopods. However, these leaves should be free of pesticides or chemicals. Additionally, sphagnum moss and coconut fiber can be utilized for their survival.
In their ideal condition, hiding spots are also necessary. This substrate mixture of coconut fibre, leaf litter, and sphagnum moss offers natural hiding spots for the isopods. This creates a homely feeling for the isopods, who feel that they are in their natural habitats.
Too much dampening of the substrate mix is not advisable in any enclosures. Care should be taken when using substrate mix, as it could cause waterlogging. Such scenarios should be avoided at all costs to ensure the survival of tricolour isopods.
PostPods
Dwarf White Isopods (Trichorhina Tomentosa)
£4.00
Dwarf White Isopods (Trichorhina tomentosa) are the workhorses of the bioactive hobby. Tiny, prolific, and utterly dedicated to their cleanup duties, these miniature isopods have earned their reputation as essential "tank janitors" for terrariums and vivariums worldwide.
At under 5mm fully grown, they're among the smallest isopod species available - less than half the size of most common isopods. But what they lack in size, they more than compensate for with sheer numbers and an impressive appetite for waste. A thriving colony of Dwarf Whites will efficiently process animal droppings, decaying plant matter, uneaten food, mould, and organic debris, keeping your enclosure clean and healthy.
Native to the tropical forests of Central and South America, these soft-bodied isopods thrive in warm, humid environments. Their bright white colouration makes them easy to spot against dark substrate - useful when you want to check on your colony's progress.
A Glimpse
Origin: Central and South America
Scientific Name: Trichorhina tomentosa
Difficulty Level: Very Easy
Size: 2-5mm (one of the smallest species)
Lifespan: Up to 3 years
Temperature: 21-29°C (room temperature is fine)
Humidity: 70-80%
Rarity: Very Common
An Overview
Dwarf White Isopods occupy a unique niche in the hobby. Unlike the larger, more colourful species kept primarily for display, Trichorhina tomentosa are valued almost entirely for their practical utility. They're the invisible maintenance crew working tirelessly beneath the surface of your bioactive setup.
Their claim to fame is their remarkable breeding ability. Dwarf Whites are parthenogenetic - every individual is female and can reproduce without mating. This means a single isopod can establish an entire colony. Combined with their prolific breeding rate (females can produce 30+ offspring monthly), populations explode rapidly under good conditions. A small starter culture can become thousands within months.
This reproductive strategy makes them incredibly effective as a cleanup crew. Their numbers quickly scale to match the waste production in any enclosure, and they can outcompete pest species like grain mites and wood mites by sheer population pressure.
They're also popular as feeder insects for smaller reptiles and amphibians. Their tiny size makes them perfect for dart frogs, small geckos, and froglets - animals too small to eat larger isopod species. They're soft-bodied and nutritious, providing a natural food source that also performs cleanup duties between being eaten.
Their burrowing nature means you'll rarely see them on the surface during the day. They prefer to stay hidden within substrate and leaf litter, emerging mainly to feed. This makes them an "invisible" cleanup crew - they do their work unseen.
Basic Care
Dwarf White Isopods are among the easiest isopods to keep, tolerating a wide range of conditions and requiring minimal attention once established.
Temperature should be maintained between 21-29°C (70-85°F). They thrive at typical room temperatures without supplemental heating. Warmer temperatures within this range encourage faster breeding.
Humidity is important - aim for 70-80%. As tropical species, they prefer consistently moist conditions. Unlike some isopod species that need a moisture gradient, Dwarf Whites do well with uniformly damp substrate. However, avoid waterlogging - good drainage is essential.
Ventilation requirements are minimal. Unlike larger isopods that prefer good airflow, Dwarf Whites tolerate lower ventilation. A few small holes for air exchange are sufficient. This actually makes them easier to maintain, as humidity is easier to keep stable.
Enclosure size can be small - their tiny size means even compact containers can house large colonies. They don't climb, preferring to burrow, so lid security is straightforward.
They're remarkably adaptable and forgiving of imperfect conditions, making them genuinely beginner-friendly. If you can maintain basic humidity and temperature, they'll thrive.
Feeding
Dwarf White Isopods are detritivores with unfussy appetites. They'll consume virtually any decomposing organic matter, making them exceptionally effective cleanup crew members.
Primary foods (should always be available):
Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech - essential for both food and habitat)
Decaying driftwood and softwoods
Fungi and mould (they actively consume these)
Animal droppings (in bioactive setups)
Supplementary foods (offered occasionally):
Vegetable scraps - carrots and cucumbers are favourites
Fruit scraps (use sparingly to avoid mould issues)
Fish flakes or dried shrimp (protein source)
Decaying plant matter
Calcium supplementation is beneficial though less critical than for larger species. Crushed eggshells or cuttlebone can be offered.
Their appetite is remarkable for their size. Despite being tiny, colonies consume substantial amounts of organic matter. This is precisely why they're so effective as cleanup crews - they process waste rapidly and efficiently.
In bioactive enclosures, they'll naturally consume animal faeces, shed skin, uneaten feeder insects, fallen plant material, and any developing mould. They turn waste into nutrients that benefit plants and soil health.
Be mindful not to overfeed fresh foods, as excess can create mould problems in humid environments. Leaf litter and decaying wood should form the bulk of their diet.
Appearance and Behaviour
Dwarf White Isopods are genuinely tiny. Adults reach only 2-5mm in length (under 1/4 inch), making them one of the smallest isopod species available. For context, they're roughly the size of a grain of rice.
Their colouration is uniformly white to cream, with soft, somewhat translucent exoskeletons. Unlike the hard, calcified shells of Armadillidium species, Dwarf Whites have pliable bodies. Their white colour provides strong contrast against dark substrate, making them relatively easy to spot despite their small size.
Their bodies are oval-shaped and segmented, typical of isopods, with multiple pairs of legs. They lack the ability to roll into a ball (conglobate) like pill bug species.
Behaviourally, Dwarf Whites are dedicated burrowers. They spend most of their time beneath the substrate surface or hidden within leaf litter, rarely venturing into the open during daylight hours. This makes them largely invisible in most setups - you'll know they're working by the results rather than by seeing them.
They're nocturnal, becoming more active at night when they emerge to feed. If you want to observe them, checking after dark with a red light works well.
Their parthenogenetic reproduction (all-female, asexual breeding) is their most remarkable trait. Every adult can produce offspring without mating, leading to rapid population growth. A single female can produce 30+ babies monthly, and those offspring mature quickly to begin reproducing themselves.
They're completely harmless - they don't bite, sting, or carry diseases. They're docile and show no aggression toward enclosure inhabitants.
Habitat
Dwarf White Isopods are native to the tropical and subtropical forests of Central and South America, where they inhabit moist leaf litter on forest floors.
Enclosure options:
Small plastic containers work perfectly for culturing
Any terrarium or vivarium for bioactive use
Front-opening or removable-top containers for easy access
Minimal space required due to their tiny size
Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F). Standard room temperature is ideal - no special heating required.
Humidity: 70-80%. Consistently moist conditions are preferred.
Ventilation: Minimal. A few small holes for air exchange are sufficient. Low ventilation actually helps maintain humidity.
Substrate depth: A few centimetres is adequate. They burrow but don't require extremely deep substrate like some larger species.
Lighting: None required. They're nocturnal and prefer dark, damp conditions.
They're often used alongside springtails in bioactive setups. The two species complement each other perfectly - springtails target smaller debris and mould while Dwarf Whites handle larger organic matter. Together, they create a comprehensive cleanup crew.
Note: While excellent with most animals, Dwarf Whites can stress certain burrowing invertebrates like Therea roaches and some large Spanish Porcellio species. Their persistent presence seems to disturb these animals. For most reptile and amphibian setups, however, they're ideal companions.
Substrate Mix
Dwarf White Isopods are less demanding about substrate than many species, though they still benefit from an appropriate mix.
Simple culture substrate:
Coconut coir (Dwarf Whites are one of the few isopods that thrive in pure coco coir)
Peat moss
Organic topsoil
Any combination of the above
Enhanced bioactive substrate:
ABG mix or similar tropical substrate
Coconut coir base
Earthworm castings (adds nutrients)
Charcoal (aids drainage)
Essential additions:
Generous hardwood leaf litter (both food and habitat)
Decaying wood pieces or cork bark
Hiding spots (bark, wood, leaf coverage)
Unlike many isopods that struggle with plain coconut coir, Dwarf Whites actually thrive in it - as long as leaf litter and other botanicals are provided. This makes substrate preparation particularly easy.
Maintain consistent moisture throughout - Dwarf Whites prefer uniformly damp conditions rather than the moisture gradient required by some species. The substrate should feel damp but not waterlogged. Ensure adequate drainage to prevent standing water.
pH should ideally range between 6.2-7.5, with water hardness of 5-11 dGH if you're monitoring these parameters (though they're tolerant of variation).
Breeding
Dwarf White Isopods are among the easiest isopods to breed - in fact, stopping them from breeding would be the challenge.
Their parthenogenetic reproduction means every adult can produce offspring independently. No males exist in this species; females essentially clone themselves. This reproductive strategy results in exponentially growing populations.
Breeding rate: Females can produce 30+ offspring monthly. Juveniles reach maturity in 4-6 weeks, at which point they begin reproducing themselves. This creates compound growth - populations can explode from a small starter culture to thousands within months.
Breeding conditions: Maintain humidity at 70-80%, temperatures at 21-29°C, abundant leaf litter, and some protein supplementation. Beyond these basics, breeding happens automatically.
Females carry eggs in a brood pouch and produce egg capsules (oothecae) containing 15-20 fertilised eggs. Each female can produce up to five oothecae in her lifetime.
Seasonal patterns: Breeding may be initiated more in autumn/winter months, though under stable captive conditions they breed year-round.
Their prolific breeding makes them self-sustaining in bioactive setups. Once established, a colony will maintain itself indefinitely, with populations naturally adjusting to match available food (waste production).
For culturing purposes, starting with 50-100 individuals provides a strong foundation that will rapidly multiply into a thriving colony.
Uses in Bioactive Setups
Dwarf White Isopods excel in several roles:
Cleanup Crew: Their primary function. They efficiently process animal droppings, shed skin, fallen plant material, uneaten food, and developing mould. Their numbers scale to match waste production.
Substrate Aeration: Their burrowing activity keeps substrate fresh and prevents compaction, encouraging healthy plant root growth and preventing anaerobic zones.
Feeder Insects: For small reptiles and amphibians (dart frogs, small geckos, froglets), they provide a nutritious food source. Their soft bodies are easily digestible.
Mite Competition: Thriving Dwarf White populations can outcompete pest mite species (wood mites, grain mites) through sheer numbers, helping prevent infestations.
Symbiotic Partners: They work excellently alongside springtails and other isopod species, each handling different aspects of waste processing.
They're suitable for most reptile and amphibian enclosures, particularly those requiring high humidity. Their small size means they won't disturb inhabitants, and they're too tiny to pose any threat to animals.
PostPods
Klugii Pudding Isopods (Armadillidium)
£10.00
Pudding Isopods (Armadillidium klugii 'Pudding') are a distinctive colour morph within the popular Clown Isopod family. What sets Pudding apart from its Dubrovnik and Montenegro cousins is the absence of the characteristic red skirting - instead, these isopods display a more subdued but equally attractive appearance with white or yellow spots on a brown to dark brown body, edged with a transparent white border.
Native to the Montenegro region of the Balkans along the Adriatic coast, Pudding Isopods share the hardy, adaptable nature of all Armadillidium klugii varieties. They're among the more beginner-friendly Clown morphs, thriving in semi-arid conditions that would stress many tropical isopod species.
Their pattern is believed to mimic the Mediterranean Black Widow spider (Latrodectus tredecimguttatus) - a form of protective mimicry that makes them appear dangerous despite being completely harmless. The Pudding variety achieves this effect without the red colouration, relying instead on the stark contrast of light spots against dark background.
Like all Clown Isopods, they're excellent display animals that become more bold and visible as colony numbers increase. They also make effective bioactive cleanup crews, particularly suited to drier setups where high-humidity species wouldn't thrive.
A Glimpse
Origin: Montenegro (Balkan region, Adriatic coast)
Scientific Name: Armadillidium klugii
Variety: Pudding
Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium
Size: Up to 2cm (approximately 18-21mm)
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F), optimal 23-26°C (74-79°F)
Humidity: 40-60% (with strong moisture gradient)
Rarity: Medium to High
An Overview
The Pudding morph is one of several colour varieties within the Armadillidium klugii species complex. All klugii varieties originate from the Adriatic coastline, spanning from Croatia through Montenegro into southern Albania and western Greece.
What distinguishes Pudding from other Clown morphs is straightforward: no red. While Dubrovnik displays prominent red skirting and Montenegro shows red edges with yellow central spots, Pudding lacks these red markings entirely. Instead, you'll see:
Base colour ranging from light brown to dark brown (sometimes with purple tones)
Three rows of spots running lengthwise down the body
Spots can be white, yellow, or a mix of both
Transparent white edging along the segments instead of red skirting
This makes Pudding easily distinguishable from its more colourful relatives at a glance. Some keepers appreciate the more subtle, muted aesthetic, while others prefer it as a contrast piece in collections featuring the bolder Dubrovnik or Montenegro varieties.
The name "Pudding" likely references their colouration - the brown tones with pale spotting somewhat resemble a spotted dessert pudding.
Like all Clown Isopods, Puddings can be slow to establish in new cultures, and losing some individuals during the initial settling period is normal. However, once a colony gets going, they become prolific breeders that reward patient keepers with thriving populations.
Comparison with Other Klugii Varieties
Understanding the differences helps identify your isopods and maintain pure lines:
Pudding - No red colouration. Brown body with white and/or yellow spots. Transparent white edging. The most subdued of the common varieties.
Montenegro - Yellow spots running down the centre, red skirting around edges, darker body. Good colour contrast.
Dubrovnik - Higher levels of red throughout, predominantly white spots, some individuals almost entirely red ("Dubrovnik Red Phase").
Montenegro Orange - Selectively bred variant with vibrant orange base colour instead of dark brown/red.
If maintaining pure lines matters, keep varieties separate. They can interbreed, producing offspring with mixed characteristics.
Basic Care
Pudding Isopods share care requirements with all Armadillidium klugii varieties - they're adapted to the temperate, semi-arid conditions of the Adriatic coast rather than tropical humidity.
Temperature should be maintained between 21-29°C (70-85°F). Room temperature works fine, but they thrive and breed more readily at slightly elevated temperatures around 23-26°C (74-79°F). Night drops to 16-18°C (low 60s°F) won't harm them and actually mimic natural conditions. Daytime highs shouldn't exceed 29°C (low 80s°F).
Humidity is where Pudding Isopods differ significantly from tropical species. They prefer semi-arid conditions of 40-60% overall, with a crucial moisture gradient:
Approximately one-third of the enclosure kept damp (not wet) with sphagnum moss
Middle section moderately moist with leaf litter and bark coverage
Remaining section completely dry with just leaf litter
This gradient allows them to osmoregulate - moving between zones to maintain proper hydration. Avoid uniformly wet conditions, which can cause moulting problems and lead to colony crashes.
Ventilation is particularly important. These isopods thrive with average to high ventilation - they're among the few species suited to semi-arid setups. Good airflow prevents stagnation, mould, and pest problems. However, balance is needed - excessive ventilation can dry things out too quickly.
Enclosure type: Glass or acrylic terrariums for display, ventilated plastic containers for breeding colonies. A 6-8 quart storage tote or 5-10 gallon aquarium suits a starter colony of 12-20 isopods.
They're burrowers rather than climbers, making escape unlikely.
Feeding
Pudding Isopods are detritivores with a notable appreciation for protein - more so than many isopod species.
Primary foods (should always be available):
Hardwood leaf litter (oak, magnolia)
Magnolia pods (a particular favourite of all klugii)
Decaying hardwood
Cork bark
Vegetable foods (offered regularly):
Carrots
Potatoes
Squash
Sweet potato
Mushrooms
Dried peas and beans
Protein supplementation (essential, 1-2 times weekly):
Freeze-dried minnows
Dried shrimp or shrimp pellets
Fish flakes or pellets
Insect frass
Calcium supplementation (always available):
Cuttlebone
Crushed eggshells
Oyster shells
Leaf powder
Important: Feed protein sources on the drier side - wet protein foods spoil quickly in humid areas and attract pests. Klugii varieties greatly benefit from consistent protein and calcium supplementation; colonies thrive with these additions and may struggle without them.
They may snack on soft plants and mosses, so keep them away from prized terrarium plants.
Remove uneaten food before it spoils to prevent mould and pest issues.
Appearance and Behaviour
Pudding Isopods are medium-sized, reaching approximately 18-21mm (about 2cm) as adults. They have the typical Armadillidium body shape - oval, highly domed, and capable of rolling into a tight defensive ball (conglobation).
Colouration:
Base colour ranges from light brown to dark brown, sometimes with purple undertones
Three parallel rows of spots running lengthwise
Spots can be white, yellow, or mixed
Transparent white edging along segment margins (no red)
Older specimens may show slightly different tones than juveniles
Their appearance mimics the Mediterranean Black Widow spider - a form of protective camouflage that makes them appear dangerous to potential predators despite being completely harmless. The Pudding variety achieves this mimicry without red colouration.
Their exoskeleton is heavily calcified, providing substantial protection and making them a calcium-rich food source for any predators that do consume them.
Sexual dimorphism:
Females develop a visible white brood pouch (marsupium) between their legs as they mature
Males lack this cavity
Females tend to be slightly larger than males
Behaviourally, Pudding Isopods are:
Somewhat shy initially, becoming bolder as colony numbers increase
Primarily burrowers (dig into substrate rather than climb)
Non-aggressive and safe to handle
Good display animals once established
Active and visible when comfortable
Like all klugii varieties, they can be slow to establish in new environments. Fresh cultures may take several weeks to months before breeding begins, with some losses of older individuals during this period. This is normal - patience is essential.
Habitat
Creating the right habitat focuses on the moisture gradient and ventilation these isopods require.
Enclosure options:
Glass or acrylic terrariums for display
Ventilated plastic containers (6-8 quart) for breeding colonies
Small aquariums (5-10 gallons) work well
Gasket-sealed storage totes with ventilation holes
Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F), optimal around 23-26°C (74-79°F).
Humidity: 40-60% with strong moisture gradient. Semi-arid overall.
Ventilation: Average to high. These isopods tolerate and benefit from good airflow.
Substrate depth: At least 5-7cm (2-3 inches) to allow burrowing.
Moisture gradient setup:
Damp zone (approximately 1/3): Lightly damp sphagnum moss covering hides and leaf litter
Transition zone: Moderately moist with leaf litter and bark
Dry zone: Completely dry, covered only with leaf litter
Hides: Provide on both damp and dry sides - cork bark, rotting wood slabs, leaf litter coverage. This allows isopods to choose their preferred microclimate while remaining under cover.
Important: They will not fare well if the entire enclosure is damp or wet. These are semi-arid species that struggle in tropical conditions.
They're well-suited as cleanup crews for bioactive setups requiring drier conditions - a niche where many isopod species wouldn't thrive.
Substrate Mix
The substrate should support the moisture gradient while providing nutrition and burrowing opportunities.
Base substrate:
Quality bioactive substrate mix
Organic topsoil and coco coir blend
Commercial isopod substrate
Essential additions:
Generous hardwood leaf litter throughout
Decaying hardwood pieces
Cork bark flats and pieces
Sphagnum moss (for damp zone only - approximately 1/3 of enclosure)
Calcium supplementation:
Crushed eggshells mixed throughout
Cuttlebone pieces scattered in enclosure
Layer structure:
Base: 5-7cm substrate with good drainage
Top: Thin layer of leaf litter throughout, deeper on dry side
Damp zone: Wet sphagnum moss covering hides
Hides: Cork bark, wood pieces on both damp and dry sides
The deeper substrate combined with leaf litter on top of the damp section helps retain humidity while reducing watering frequency. Good drainage is essential - avoid waterlogging at all costs.
Consider refreshing substrate and adding new bloodlines every 6-12 months to maintain colony health and genetic diversity.
Breeding
Pudding Isopods breed reliably once established, though they're typically slower to get started than some species.
Establishment period: Like all klugii varieties, new colonies take time to settle. Most keepers report 3-4 months before offspring start appearing. Losing some older individuals during this initial period is common and doesn't necessarily indicate care problems.
Breeding indicators:
Females: White brood pouch (marsupium) visible between legs when mature
Males: No cavity between legs
Females tend to be slightly larger than males
Optimal breeding conditions:
Temperature at 23-26°C (74-79°F) - slightly elevated temperatures encourage reproduction
Strong moisture gradient maintained consistently
Good ventilation
Regular protein and calcium supplementation (particularly important for breeding success)
Minimal disturbance
Breeding rate: Once established, they become very prolific. Breeding occurs most readily during warmer months but continues year-round under stable conditions.
Monitoring: Check colonies weekly as part of routine maintenance. Look for mancae (babies), gravid females, and any issues needing attention.
Colony health tips:
Maintain consistent conditions - klugii can crash if care requirements slip
Don't let calcium and protein supplementation lapse
Avoid harsh chemicals, candle smoke, and strong fragrances near enclosures
Add new bloodlines periodically to maintain genetic diversity
Refresh substrate occasionally
Feed protein on the dry side to prevent spoilage
The key with Pudding Isopods (and all klugii) is consistency. They're not difficult, but they don't tolerate neglect of their specific requirements - particularly the moisture gradient, ventilation, and protein supplementation. Meet these needs reliably, and you'll be rewarded with a thriving, prolific colony.
PostPods
Dubrovnik Isopods (Armadillidium Klugii)
£10.00
Dubrovnik Isopods (Armadillidium klugii 'Dubrovnik') are one of the most visually striking isopods available. Named after the historic Croatian coastal city where they originate, these "Clown Isopods" display stunning colouration that makes them an exceptional display species.
Their appearance features a dark brownish-grey body broken by three parallel rows of white spots, all bordered by vibrant red-orange "skirting" along the edges of their exoskeleton. The Dubrovnik variety is particularly prized for its higher levels of red colouration compared to other Armadillidium klugii localities - some individuals are almost entirely red, known as "Dubrovnik Red Phase."
Native to the sun-drenched Adriatic coastline, these isopods are naturally adapted to drier, well-ventilated conditions with plenty of airflow. They're not the tropical humidity lovers that many isopod species are - instead, they thrive with a strong moisture gradient, preferring predominantly dry conditions with access to a localised damp area.
While they can be slow to establish initially (losing a few in the early stages is reportedly common), once a colony gets going, Dubrovnik Isopods become hardy, prolific breeders that reward patient keepers with stunning displays.
A Glimpse
Origin: Dubrovnik, Croatia (Adriatic coast)
Scientific Name: Armadillidium klugii
Common Names: Dubrovnik Clown Isopod, Clown Isopod
Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium
Size: Up to 2cm (approximately 16-18mm)
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F)
Humidity: 50-70% (with strong moisture gradient)
Rarity: Medium
An Overview
Armadillidium klugii is distributed along the Adriatic Sea coastline, from Croatia through Montenegro, with populations also recorded in southern Albania and western Greece. The species displays significant variation in colouration and patterning depending on locality, giving rise to distinct varieties in the hobby.
The "Dubrovnik" variety specifically originates from the area around Dubrovnik, Croatia. It's distinguished from the "Montenegro" variety by its higher levels of red throughout the body and predominantly white spots (Montenegro typically shows yellow spots in the central row and less overall red colouration).
Their striking appearance isn't just for show - it's believed to be a form of mimicry camouflage. The bold red, black, and spotted pattern may help them appear dangerous to potential predators, despite being completely harmless. Their heavily calcified exoskeleton provides genuine physical protection.
Clown Isopods have become increasingly popular in the hobby due to their dramatic colouration and relative hardiness once established. They're often kept purely as display animals rather than cleanup crews, though they do perform bioactive duties effectively. Their preference for drier conditions makes them suitable for setups where high-humidity tropical species wouldn't thrive.
One thing to understand about this species: they can be notoriously slow starters. Fresh cultures often take several weeks or even months to really get going, and losing some older individuals in the initial establishment period is common. This isn't necessarily a sign that something's wrong - it's a known characteristic of the species. Patience is essential.
Varieties and Morphs
Several Armadillidium klugii varieties exist, distinguished primarily by their locality and resulting colour patterns:
Dubrovnik - Higher levels of red throughout the body with three rows of predominantly white spotting. Some individuals display such intense red colouration they're separated as "Dubrovnik Red Phase."
Montenegro - Yellow spots running down the centre of the back, with lower overall red colouration. Known for excellent colour contrast between the yellow spots and darker body.
Montenegro Orange - A selectively bred variant with orange tones.
Pudding - A darker variety with less red than either Dubrovnik or Montenegro.
If you want to maintain pure locality lines, keep different varieties separate. However, many keepers successfully mix Dubrovnik varieties with their "Dubrovnik Red" individuals to produce offspring with varying red intensity.
Basic Care
Dubrovnik Isopods require slightly different care than many isopod species - they're adapted to the sunny, breezy Adriatic coast rather than damp forest floors.
Temperature should be maintained between 21-29°C (70-85°F). Standard room temperature works perfectly. Higher temperatures within this range (around 24-29°C) may encourage more prolific breeding and help new colonies establish faster.
Humidity is where Dubrovnik Isopods differ from many species. They prefer moderate humidity of 50-70% overall, but crucially, they need a strong moisture gradient rather than uniform dampness:
One side of the enclosure should be kept damp (wet sphagnum moss works well)
The middle should be moderately moist
The opposite side should be completely dry with just leaf litter coverage
This gradient allows them to self-regulate their moisture needs. They'll move between zones as required. Avoid uniformly wet conditions - excessive humidity can cause problems for this species.
Ventilation is particularly important. Native to coastal regions with constant breezes, Dubrovnik Isopods need good airflow. Ensure your enclosure has adequate ventilation holes - more than you might provide for tropical species.
Enclosure type: Glass or acrylic terrariums make excellent display enclosures and show off their colours beautifully. Plastic containers work for breeding colonies but offer less visual appeal for such a stunning species.
They're burrowers rather than climbers, so escape isn't typically a concern.
Feeding
Dubrovnik Isopods are detritivores with a particular appreciation for protein and calcium supplementation.
Primary foods (should always be available):
Hardwood leaf litter (oak, magnolia)
Decaying hardwood
Magnolia pods (a favourite)
Cork bark
Vegetable foods (offered regularly):
Sweet potato
Mushrooms
Dried peas and beans
Carrots
Dry vegetable scraps
Protein supplementation (1-2 times weekly):
Dried shrimp or shrimp pellets
Fish flakes or dried fish
Insect frass
Calcium supplementation (always available):
Cuttlebone
Crushed eggshells
Oyster shells
Important: These isopods do best with drier food offerings. Fresh, wet foods can encourage mould growth, which can be harmful. Dry vegetable scraps, dried proteins, and leaf litter are preferable to fresh, moist foods. Remove any uneaten fresh food promptly.
They may snack on soft plants and mosses, so keep them away from prized terrarium plants if this is a concern.
Colonies thrive with regular protein and calcium supplementation - this seems to significantly improve breeding success and offspring survival rates.
Appearance and Behaviour
Dubrovnik Isopods are medium-sized, reaching approximately 16-20mm (about 2cm) as adults. They have the typical Armadillidium body shape - oval, highly domed, and capable of rolling into a tight defensive ball (conglobation).
Their colouration is their defining feature:
Dark grey-brown to black base colour
Three parallel rows of spots running lengthwise (predominantly white in Dubrovnik, sometimes with yellow)
Bright red-orange "skirting" along the edges of each body segment
Some individuals display extensive red throughout the body
The intensity of red colouration varies between individuals. Particularly red specimens can be selectively bred to produce "Red Phase" cultures.
Their exoskeleton is heavily calcified, giving them substantial protection. This hard shell also makes them a calcium-rich food source for any predators that do consume them.
Sexual dimorphism: Females develop a visible white brood pouch (marsupium) between their legs as they mature. Males lack this cavity. Females also tend to be slightly larger than males.
Behaviourally, Dubrovnik Isopods are:
Primarily burrowers (they dig into substrate rather than climb)
Active and reasonably visible once established
Good display animals that don't hide constantly
Hardy once past the initial establishment phase
They can be slow to settle into new environments. Fresh cultures may take weeks or months to start breeding, with some losses of older individuals during this period. This is normal for the species - don't panic if early progress seems slow.
Habitat
Creating the right habitat is crucial for Dubrovnik Isopods, particularly the moisture gradient and ventilation.
Enclosure options:
Glass or acrylic terrariums for display
Ventilated plastic containers for breeding colonies
Shoebox-sized containers work well for colony maintenance
Temperature: 21-29°C (70-85°F). Room temperature is ideal.
Humidity: 50-70% with strong moisture gradient. Drier overall than tropical species.
Ventilation: High. Drill plenty of ventilation holes - these coastal isopods need good airflow.
Substrate depth: At least 5cm (2 inches) to allow for burrowing.
Moisture gradient setup:
Wet zone: One side with damp New Zealand sphagnum moss
Transition zone: Middle area kept moderately moist with leaf litter and bark coverage
Dry zone: Opposite side completely dry, covered only with leaf litter
Hides: Provide plenty of hiding opportunities - cork bark, lotus pods, coconut halves, egg carton. Multiple hides give both juveniles and adults space and create a more enriching environment.
Enrichment: Various moss types (as both snacks and hides), bark pieces, items with different textures that break down at varying rates.
Avoid uniformly wet conditions or automated misting systems that dampen the entire enclosure. Their preference for drier conditions makes them suitable for bioactive setups that would be too dry for tropical species.
Substrate Mix
The substrate should support the moisture gradient these isopods require while providing nutrition.
Base substrate options:
Quality bioactive substrate mix
Organic topsoil and coco coir blend
Commercial isopod substrate
Essential additions:
Generous hardwood leaf litter (oak works excellently)
Decaying hardwood pieces
Cork bark flats and pieces
Sphagnum moss (for the damp zone only)
Calcium supplementation in substrate:
Crushed eggshells mixed throughout
Cuttlebone pieces scattered in enclosure
Layer structure:
Base: 5cm+ substrate
Top: Leaf litter layer throughout
Damp zone: Wet sphagnum moss on one side
Hides: Cork bark, wood pieces scattered throughout
The substrate should drain well - waterlogging must be avoided. The dry zone should remain genuinely dry, not just "less wet."
Consider adding fresh substrate and potentially new bloodlines every 6-12 months to help prevent colony crashes and maintain genetic health.
Breeding
Once established, Dubrovnik Isopods breed reliably, though getting to that point requires patience.
Establishment period: New colonies are notoriously slow to start. Expect several weeks to a few months before breeding really takes off. Losing some older individuals during this period is common and doesn't necessarily indicate problems with your care.
Breeding indicators:
Females: White brood pouch (marsupium) visible between legs when mature
Males: No cavity between legs
Males tend to be slightly smaller than females
Optimal breeding conditions:
Temperature at the higher end of their range (24-29°C)
Strong moisture gradient maintained
Good ventilation
Regular protein and calcium supplementation
Undisturbed environment
Breeding rate: Once established, they're described as "incredibly prolific." Sub-adults may begin breeding before reaching full size under good conditions.
Monitoring: Check colonies weekly as part of routine maintenance. Look for mancae (babies), gravid females, and any issues that need addressing.
Colony health tips:
Avoid harsh chemicals and candle smoke near enclosures (can cause crashes)
Add new bloodlines periodically (every 6-12 months) to maintain genetic diversity
Refresh substrate occasionally
Maintain consistent conditions - stability matters
With proper care and patience through the establishment phase, Dubrovnik Isopods reward keepers with beautiful, active colonies that showcase some of the most striking colouration in the isopod hobby.