Isopods For Sale (185)

Porcellio scaber "Ghost" is a selectively bred colour morph of the common rough woodlouse, displaying reduced pigmentation that results in pale mauve to yellowish-white colouration. As a Porcellio scaber morph, they inherit all the hardiness and ease of care that has made this species one of the most reliable isopods in the hobby. They're an excellent choice for beginners, bioactive setups, or anyone wanting a visually interesting isopod without the demanding care requirements of tropical species. A Glimpse Origin: Europe (selectively bred morph) Scientific Name: Porcellio scaber "Ghost" Maintenance required: Low Average Size: 17-18mm Rarity: Low-Medium Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 60°F-80°F (15°C-27°C) Ventilation: Medium-High Humidity: 50-60% Favourite food: Leaf litter, rotting wood, vegetables Supplements: Fish flakes, cuttlefish bone Ghost Scaber Isopods: Introduction Ghost Scabers are a hypomelanistic morph of Porcellio scaber - the same species you'll find under logs and plant pots across the UK and Europe. Through selective breeding, this morph displays reduced pigmentation, giving them their distinctive pale appearance. Colour can vary between individuals, ranging from soft mauve-purple through to pale cream or yellowish-white. Because they're a morph of such a well-established species, Ghost Scabers retain all the bulletproof qualities that make P. scaber such a popular choice. They're forgiving of beginner mistakes, breed readily, and adapt to a wide range of conditions. Ghost Scaber Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach 17-18mm, making them a decent-sized isopod that's easy to observe. Colour varies from pale purple-mauve to creamy yellowish-white depending on the individual. Their bodies have the characteristic rough, tuberculate texture that gives P. scaber its "rough woodlouse" common name. Hard, calcified exoskeletons - more rigid than many tropical species. Unlike Armadillidium species, they cannot roll into a complete ball when threatened. Fast movers - they rely on speed rather than defensive rolling when disturbed. Two white uropods (tail appendages) are clearly visible. Ghost Scaber Isopods: Diet Ghost Scabers have healthy appetites and aren't fussy eaters. Leaf litter forms the foundation of their diet. Oak, beech, and other hardwood leaves work well. Keep a thick layer available at all times - this is the single most important food source. Rotting wood - particularly soft, white-rotted hardwood - provides essential nutrition and should always be present in the enclosure. Vegetables like carrots, potato, squash, and courgette are readily accepted. Remove uneaten portions after a day or two. Protein is important for this species - they have higher protein requirements than some other isopods. Offer fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar 1-2 times per week. Calcium via cuttlefish bone, crushed eggshells, or limestone helps ensure successful moulting. Ghost Scaber Isopods: Behaviour Ghost Scabers are active isopods that you'll actually see moving around, unlike many shy tropical species. They're active during the day as well as at night, particularly in the mornings and evenings. They're social creatures and naturally form groups, especially in favoured spots within the enclosure. When disturbed, they scatter quickly rather than freezing or rolling up - their speed is their primary defence. These are confident isopods that settle into new environments quickly. You won't need to wait months before seeing activity in your colony. Ghost Scaber Isopods: Breeding One of the biggest advantages of P. scaber morphs is their prolific breeding rate. Under good conditions, colonies establish and grow quickly. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch (marsupium) and release fully-formed miniature isopods. You can expect to see juveniles appearing within a few weeks of setting up a colony in appropriate conditions. This makes Ghost Scabers excellent for building up numbers quickly, whether for a bioactive cleanup crew or as feeders. Ghost Scaber Isopods: Habitat A standard 6-litre container is adequate for a starter colony, though larger enclosures allow populations to grow more substantially. Temperature: Very adaptable - anywhere from 60-80°F (15-27°C) works well. Room temperature in most UK homes is perfectly suitable year-round. Humidity: This is a semi-arid species that doesn't tolerate constantly wet conditions. Keep humidity around 50-60% with a clear moisture gradient. Around one-third of the enclosure should be kept slightly moist (using sphagnum moss), while the rest remains dry. Ventilation: Important for this species. They need good airflow - more than tropical Cubaris species would tolerate. Ensure your enclosure has adequate ventilation holes. Substrate: A simple mix works well: Organic topsoil as a base Leaf litter mixed through and covering the surface Pieces of rotting white wood Optional: small amount of sand for drainage Substrate depth of 1-3 inches is sufficient - they'll burrow but don't need the deep substrate that some tropical species require. Hides: Cork bark, wood pieces, and thick leaf litter provide shelter. They'll congregate under hides during the day. Ghost Scaber Isopods: Bioactive Use P. scaber "Ghost" makes an excellent cleanup crew for bioactive terrariums and vivariums. They're: Hardy enough to tolerate the varied conditions in reptile enclosures Active processors of waste and decaying matter Prolific enough to maintain population numbers Visible enough to actually observe doing their job They work well in setups ranging from semi-arid to moderately humid. However, note that like all P. scaber, they have healthy appetites and may nibble on delicate live plants or soft-bodied tank mates if hungry. Ensure adequate food is always available if housing with sensitive species. Who Are Ghost Scaber Isopods Suited For? These are genuinely beginner-friendly isopods. If you're new to the hobby, P. scaber morphs like the Ghost are an ideal starting point - they're forgiving of mistakes and will thrive in conditions that would stress more sensitive species. They're also well-suited to: Bioactive terrarium keepers wanting a reliable cleanup crew Keepers wanting a visible, active species Anyone wanting to breed isopods for feeders Collectors looking for an affordable, attractive morph At this price point, Ghost Scabers offer excellent value - you get the interesting appearance of a selectively bred morph combined with the rock-solid reliability of one of the hobby's most established species.

A vast majority of isopods are tiny and are only a couple of centimeters long. Still, it is not the same for Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa Isopods, as they can grow up to 3.5 cm and are among the largest species. Also known as Spanish Giant isopods are primarily found in Spain's western region and appear bolder than any other isopod species you have ever seen. For anybody who wants to add a fascinating species to their collection, Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa is a good choice because of its large size, bright orange color, and active personality. Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Spain Scientific Name: Porcellio expansus Difficulty: Moderate Rarity: Medium rare Size: Up to 3.5 cm Humidity: 60-80% Temperature: 20-25°C Favorable Foods: Leaf litter, vegetables, fruits, fish flakes, and shrimp pallets An Overview Originating from Spain, Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa is very different from other isopod species, which is why they are so popular among keepers. Their large size is one of their best features, but can be a problem as well as most keepers are better in keeping small sized isopods as pets. You may have to put more effort than you do with your other isopods.  Apart from their size, Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa stands out because of its unique coloration, rarely seen in other isopods. If you want to own one as a pet, a large enclosure is a must so it can have enough space to move and crawl freely. Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa Isopods: Basic Care These tips will surely help you to raise them healthy: It might make an impression of difficult to keep, but it is quite the opposite and you can raise them with doing the minimum. Just invest on the stable environment and ensure the temperature and humidity levels don't fluctuate much. Keep the humidity levels between 60-80% so they don't experience molting issues, a common problem in the species. You need a big terrarium with plenty of space and good ventilation so your isopods can breathe, live, and breed without complications. Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa isopods need moisture, so mist the enclosure regularly, but don't overdo it; otherwise, it can cause issues. Feeding The good thing is that Porcellio Expansus Orange Tortosa is not as picky as other isopods, so you can feed them a range of things as long as they are nutritious and good for their health. Preparing a healthy diet is not that difficult and you just need to put leaf litter, veggies, and fruits and feed them in small portions so they don't overeat and fall sick. For protein, you can give fish flakes and shrimp pellets occasionally, but a limited portion. Appearance & Behaviour One of the main reasons people find them attractive is their large size and bright orange bodies, which stand out beautifully against dark soil or leaf litter. They are active and bold but not as aggressive as many believe because of their size. Since they are strong burrowers need a thick substrate that encourages their natural behavior and lets them dig and hide whenever they feel threatened. Habitat You can keep your isopods healthy and happy only if you can mimic their natural habitat in captivity; otherwise, there can be problems. Add cork bark, leaf litter, moss, rocks, and softwood to create a proper habitat, providing the shelter and food your isopods need. Also, avoid overwatering the habitat and use a hygrometer to monitor the humidity levels if required. Substrate Mix The substrate is a big part of their habitat; you cannot mess it up at any cost. A balanced substrate mix, filled with all nutrients, must include add organic topsoil, leaf litter, coconut fiber, crushed limestone, and decaying wood pieces free from chemicals and pesticides. For calcium supplies, add cuttlebone powder for calcium, as it helps with their exoskeleton and development.

Isopods as pets are becoming extremely popular among the masses.  But if you want an easy-to-care species, choose Ying Yang isopods. Found rarely in other species of isopod, Ying Yang isopods can adapt to different environments, making it ideal even for a novice to have it as a pet. Ying Yang Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Europe Scientific Name: Porcellio Scaber “Ying Yang” Difficulty: Easy Temperature: 18–26°C Rarity: Not rare Size: Up to 1.7 cm Humidity: 70-80% Prefer damp habitats with high ground moisture Thrive in a cool environment Seek out areas with humid air to avoid desiccation Preferably cold-loving and do best in lower temperatures within their range Favorable Foods: Leafy Greens, Mushrooms, Carrots, Decaying wood Ying Yang isopods originated in Europe, but they are not rare like other species. They also have striking black, orange, and red patterns that are uncommon in the isopod world. You can find them in pet shops or online sites that deal with these creatures easily. Though the size of isopods depends on their ideal environment, Ying Yang isopods survive in any ambiance and grow up to 1.7 cm long. They instinctively avoid harmful environments, such as dry or hot areas, by seeking out moist, sheltered locations. Their ability to adapt to unfavorable environments helps them maintain health and longevity. Looking like molten lava, these species become a more fascinating creature, which can be kept a terrarium if the moisture level is thoroughly maintained. The life expectancy of adult Porcellio scaber is approximately two years under optimal conditions. Ying Yang Isopods: Basic Care We have detailed a few tips that you should follow to care for your isopods. Feed them leafy greens and other decaying matter because it is essential for their development. Use a paludarium or terrarium to keep your isopods. But ensure it has a secure lid to trap moisture and heat. Set up a semi-moist vivarium where your isopods can live comfortably. But maintain the right temperature and humidity. You should use the right substrate mix for your isopods. For Ying Yang isopod, anything which retains moisture like peat moss and coconut coir. You must ensure the terrarium receives proper lighting as it is essential for their bioPeatate hiding spots. Using leaves or bark for Ying Yang isopods, your isopods feel safe. Porcellio scaber uses several mechanisms to adapt to changes in their environment, such as altering their movement and moisture retention strategies. They can scaber alter factors like speed and turning rate to maintain optimal living conditions. **Ying Yang Isopods: Feeding Porcellio Scaber** Ying Yang isopods need a balanced diet to maintain their health and stay healthy. You can feed them various organic foods like fruits, mushrooms, decaying plant matter, and vegetables that benefit their health. Besides that, please provide them with protein-rich foods like organic plant scraps and dried vegetables twice a week. **Ying Yang Isopods: Description Porcellio Scaber & Behaviour** Ying Yang isopods are smaller than other isopods. They are only 1.7 cm, making them suitable for small enclosures. These isopods are among the best-looking creatures. Their exoskeletons have attractive black, orange, or red patterns. They have 14 legs to move fast and climb rough surfaces in their natural habitat. Ying Yang isopods thrive in low to moderate humidity. But they can adjust to different environments. As a nocturnal species, they prefer to live in the dark during the day and come out to come at night. Porcellio scaber's behaviour leads them to respond to environmental stimuli such as moisture levels and predator threats. The behaviour Porcellio scaber respond with includes orthokinesis, klinokinesis, thigmokinesis, and turn alternation, which help them avoid desiccation and escape predators. When threatened, bold woodlice may stay immobile for shorter periods, while shy individuals exhibit longer tonic immobility (thanatosis behaviour found). The reflex exhibited by Porcellio scaber, such as turn alternation during klinokinesis, helps them evade harmful environments. Observed increasing speed in dry or hot conditions is also part of their escape strategy. **Ying Yang Isopods: Habitat Porcellio Scaber** These isopods need an environment that mimics their original habitat, which is dark and humid. Maintaining the habitat is even more important than creating one. To preserve their habitat, add moist soil, damp leaf litter, and decaying wood. The substrate mix is equally important for regulating their natural habitat. Ying Yang Isopods: Substrate Mix Isopods need a good substrate mix. You cannot make your isopods healthy unless you meet this requirement. Items like coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, peat moss, and leaf litter help them to thrive. Also, add plant matter and decaying wood for added nutrition. This will allow them to thrive and reproduce faster. By maintaining their habitat, you can keep your isopods active.             Ying Yang Isopods: Ecology and Ecosystem Role The common rough woodlouse Porcellio scaber is more than just a fascinating pet—it’s a key player in the health of natural ecosystems. As a detritivore, Porcellio scaber is essential for breaking down decaying leaf litter and rotting plant matter, recycling nutrients back into the soil and supporting the broader web of life. This species is widespread, with the distribution Porcellio scaber covering much of Central and Western Europe, and it has successfully colonized other regions, often hitching a ride through human activity. Its adaptability makes it a hardy species, thriving in a variety of environments, from gardens to forests, wherever there is enough ground moisture. When it comes to the habitat Porcellio scaber prefers, these woodlice seek out cool, damp places with plenty of organic material. You’ll often find them under stones, logs, or within rich leaf litter, where humidity is high and the risk of drying out is low. The description Porcellio scaber is distinctive: an oval, slightly flattened body with a rough, tuberculate exoskeleton, usually slate-grey but sometimes showing a range of colour forms—hence its common name, the common rough woodlouse. Feeding Porcellio scaber is all about finding decaying organic matter. Thanks to their very sensitive receptors, these woodlice can detect the scent of microbial activity, helping them efficiently locate food sources. Their diet may have limited nutritional value, but it’s crucial for soil health and nutrient cycling. The life cycle of Porcellio scaber is equally fascinating. Females carry fertilized eggs in a fluid-filled sac on the ventral side of their short abdomen, protecting the young until they’re ready to emerge. Juveniles grow quickly, reaching maturity in just a few months, and adult animals can live for up to two years under favorable conditions. Porcellio scaber’s unique behaviors have even inspired scientific innovation. The Porcellio scaber algorithm is a novel optimization algorithm based on the species’ ability to solve constrained optimization problems in nature. By mimicking the way these woodlice explore and adapt to their environment, researchers have developed new methods for solving complex problems in computer science and engineering. In response to certain stimuli, such as a dry or hot environment, Porcellio scaber exhibits remarkable survival strategies. One such reflex is thanatosis behavior—a form of death feigning where the woodlouse becomes immobile to avoid detection by predators. In unfavorable environments, they also increase their speed and turn more frequently, using alternating turns average to move in a straight line and escape to safer, more humid areas. This movement is explained by bilateral asymmetrical leg movement, a mechanism that ensures efficient navigation, unlike random turns. To conserve moisture, Porcellio scaber often seeks contact with multiple surfaces—a behavior known as thigmokinesis. By reducing their exposed surface area, they minimize water loss, which is vital for survival in less humid conditions. Research from the South Australian Research Institute and other development institutes has shed light on these behaviors, with findings published in resources like the European Journal of Soil Biology. For those interested in further exploration, external links media related to Porcellio scaber—including images, data, and scientific articles—are available on platforms such as Wikimedia Commons. Finally, studies in animal learning have shown that Porcellio scaber possesses a short-term memory, aiding in navigation and food location. These insights not only deepen our understanding of this common species but also highlight its value in both ecological research and the development of optimization algorithms. In summary, the common rough woodlouse Porcellio scaber is a resilient and adaptable species, playing a vital role in decomposition and soil biology. Its fascinating behaviors and ecological importance make it a subject of ongoing scientific interest, with applications that reach far beyond the garden or terrarium.

Keeping Shiny Gator Isopods as pets offers an exciting experience to those who prefer exotic creatures. An excellent addition to any isopod collection, Shiny Gator Isopods is popular because of their unique appearance and easy care requirements, which keepers prefer. Although small, Shiny Gator Isopods are not shy, making them a fascinating species. A gem of a species and full of character is Shiny Gator isopods. Shiny Gator Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Isopoda sp Difficulty: Medium Rarity: Rare Temperature: 21–26°C Size: 3.8 mm to 6 mm Humidity: Medium Favorable Foods: Decaying wood, leaf litter, mango, carrots, limestone, cuttlefish bone, and fish food An Overview Native to Thailand, these small, dwarf creatures are Shiny Gator Isopods. Featuring a dark body, they have orange-red faces and rear ends, which make them look different from other isopod species. Adding to their uniqueness are raised nubs on their backs that look like spikes. Well, this is why these isopods are “Shiny Gator” because their bodies look like alligator skin. Free-moving creatures, Shiny Gator Isopods have two pairs of dark-tipped antennae. The lower pair of antennae are feelers, while the upper pair are chemosensory structures. Measuring up to 3.8 mm and 6 mm, temperatures between 21°C and 26°C are essential for these isopods to grow and thrive. As for humidity, medium level is what they prefer. The attractive exoskeleton is why these isopods add a striking aesthetic to terrariums and vivarium. Shiny Gator Isopods: Basic Care Following these tips helps you to take good care of your isopods. Stable humidity and temperature levels are essential for your isopods to grow and reproduce. The ideal temperature range is between 21°C and 26°C, so maintain the same for the well-being of your isopods. Providing proper ventilation and a balanced diet helps enhance their overall health.  Create ample hiding spots using decaying wood and leaf litter, which mimics their natural habitat and provides them with shelter. Monitor the enclosure regularly so you know everything is fine. Shiny Gator Isopods: Feeding A diverse diet is what Shiny Gator Isopods need to stay healthy. To ensure your isopods get proper nutrition, provide them with decaying wood and leaf litter, a staple in their diet. For vitamins, feeding mangoes and carrots is a good choice. Provide limestone and cuttlefish bone for calcium because it is good for their exoskeleton. A good protein source is fish food, as it enhances growth and reproduction. Providing all necessary nutrients leads to a thriving and active colony. Shiny Gator Isopods: Appearance And Behaviour The body color is dark, and the raised nubs on the back look like alligator skin. The face and rear ends are orange or red, giving them a striking appearance. Features two pairs of dark-tipped antennae, which they use for finding their way, monitoring moisture, and sensing chemicals. Free-moving creatures are Shiny Gator Isopods but roll up when a threat is near. Social creatures, Shiny Gator Isopods are not overly aggressive and coexist well in colonies. Shiny Gator Isopods: Habitat Creating the perfect habitat for Shiny Gator Isopods requires you to mimic their natural environment so they stay healthy and happy. A well-ventilated enclosure with a proper moisture gradient is essential for their well-being. Include a dry and slightly humid area in the habitat to cater to their needs. Create hiding spots with bark, moss, and leaf litter as it provides them shelter and security. Use moisture-retaining and well-draining materials in the substrate. This way, you can maintain the ideal conditions for your isopods. Shiny Gator Isopods: Substrate Mix Shiny Gator Isopods need a well-prepared substrate mix to stay healthy and live longer. The ideal substrate consists of coconut fiber, decaying wood, and leaf litter. These items help maintain the right humidity levels within the enclosure. For moisture retention, use sphagnum moss. Other necessary supplies include crushed limestone and cuttlefish bone, which is good for their shell development.

Snow Queen Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a striking white morph that has become popular among collectors for their clean, pale colouration. Native to Southeast Asia, these medium-sized isopods require consistent humidity and stable conditions to thrive. They are best suited to keepers with some experience, as they are less forgiving than hardier species when environmental conditions fluctuate. A Glimpse Origin: Southeast Asia (Thailand) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Snow Queen" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 1.5-2 cm Rarity: Rare Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 22-26°C (72-79°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, vegetables, decaying wood Supplements: Crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone Snow Queen Isopods: Introduction Snow Queen isopods get their name from their predominantly white or pale cream colouration. Like other Cubaris species, they originate from limestone-rich cave environments in Southeast Asia, where they inhabit humid crevices and feed on decaying organic matter. While their appearance makes them appealing to collectors, they are not the easiest species to keep. They require more attention to humidity and temperature stability than many beginner-friendly species, and their breeding rate is slower than faster-reproducing isopods like Porcellio species. These isopods are primarily nocturnal and tend to be shy, spending much of their time hidden beneath substrate, bark, or leaf litter. Don't expect to see them out and about constantly—they prefer to stay tucked away and will often only emerge when the enclosure is dark and undisturbed. Snow Queen Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Snow Queens display a pale white to off-white colouration across their segmented bodies, with some individuals showing subtle translucent areas. Adults typically reach 1.5-2 cm in length, making them a medium-sized Cubaris species. Like other members of their genus, they possess the ability to conglobate (roll into a ball) when threatened. Their colouration can vary slightly between individuals, with some appearing more cream-toned than pure white. They have the typical Cubaris body shape with segmented plates and two visible antennae. Juveniles emerge white and maintain this colouration as they mature. Diet Snow Queen isopods are detritivores and will consume a range of organic matter. Their primary food sources include dried leaf litter, decaying hardwood, and vegetable scraps. Oak and beech leaves work well as staple leaf litter. Supplementary foods can include: Vegetables such as carrots, courgette, sweet potato, and butternut squash Small amounts of protein from sources like dried shrimp, fish flakes, or earthworm castings Decaying hardwood (avoid softwoods) Calcium supplementation is essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone, or powdered eggshells as a constant calcium source within the enclosure. Given their limestone cave origins, Cubaris species generally have higher calcium requirements than many other isopod genera. Avoid overfeeding—provide portions that will be consumed within a day or two to prevent mould growth, which can be problematic in high-humidity setups. Snow Queen Isopods: Personality Snow Queens are typically shy and reclusive. They prefer to hide during daylight hours and become more active in low light conditions. When disturbed, they will often roll into a defensive ball or quickly retreat beneath cover. They are not particularly interactive pets in the traditional sense. If you're looking for isopods that are frequently visible and active, more confident species like Porcellio scaber or Armadillidium vulgare may be more suitable. Snow Queens are better appreciated by keepers who enjoy maintaining the enclosure and occasionally spotting their isopods rather than expecting regular sightings. They are generally peaceful and can coexist with springtails, which are recommended as tank mates to help manage mould and debris in humid enclosures. Snow Queen Isopods: Breeding Snow Queen isopods are slow to moderate breeders compared to more prolific species. Females brood their eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles. Breeding success depends heavily on environmental stability—fluctuations in humidity or temperature can slow or halt reproduction. Key factors for breeding success: Maintain consistent humidity between 70-80% Keep temperatures stable within the 22-26°C range Provide adequate calcium for breeding females Avoid disturbing the enclosure unnecessarily, as stress can impact breeding Expect colony growth to be gradual. Patience is required when establishing a breeding population, and it may take several months before you see significant numbers of juveniles. Snow Queen Isopods: Habitat Setup Creating the right environment is crucial for Snow Queen isopods. As a Cubaris species from limestone cave habitats, they require conditions that differ from hardier European species. Enclosure: A plastic container with a secure lid works well. Ensure there are small ventilation holes, but avoid excessive airflow that will dry out the enclosure. A 19-litre container is suitable for a starter colony. Substrate: Use a substrate mix that retains moisture and provides calcium. A blend of organic topsoil, sphagnum peat, crushed limestone, and leaf litter works well. Avoid pure coco coir as the primary substrate for Cubaris species, as it lacks the calcium content they require and can become too acidite over time. If using any coir, mix it sparingly with limestone-rich components. Substrate depth should be at least 5-8 cm to allow for burrowing. Moisture gradient: Maintain one side of the enclosure more humid than the other. Mist the humid side regularly and add damp sphagnum moss to help retain moisture. The drier side gives the isopods options to regulate their own moisture needs. Décor: Include cork bark, hardwood pieces, and leaf litter to provide hiding spots and food sources. Lichen-covered twigs are also appreciated and provide additional grazing opportunities. Temperature: Room temperature in most UK homes is suitable (20-24°C), but avoid placing enclosures near windows, radiators, or other heat sources that could cause temperature fluctuations. A heat mat on a thermostat can be used if your ambient temperatures drop below 18°C regularly. Suitability Snow Queen isopods are best suited to intermediate keepers who have some experience maintaining humid enclosures. They are not the most forgiving species for beginners, as they are more sensitive to environmental fluctuations than species like dairy cow isopods or common rough woodlice. If you're new to isopod keeping, consider starting with hardier species to develop your husbandry skills before moving on to Cubaris species. If you already have experience with other isopods and are looking to expand your collection with something visually distinctive, Snow Queens can be a rewarding addition—provided you're prepared to maintain the conditions they need.

Isopods enthusiasts and hobbyists have always been intrigued by Amber Firefly isopods, mainly because of their unique appearance. In comparison to other isopods, these isopods have a striking appearance. The striking amber colour of their body resembles a firefly’s glow. This is one reason hobbyists are so interested in these isopods. These are also not a difficult isopod to care for  A Glimpse Origin: Central and South America Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Moderate Size: 10 to 18 mm Rarity: Moderately Rare Temperature: 22°C to 28°C Humidity: 60% to 75% Favourite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables An Overview Amber Firefly isopods are unique. These small, land-dwelling crustaceans are known for their beautiful amber colour, which sets them apart from other isopod species. The best thing about having them as pets is that you don’t have to put in much effort to care for them. Unlike other isopods, Amber Firefly isopods don’t require intensive care. Well, this makes them an ideal choice for beginners with less knowledge about isopods. Firefly isopods belong to the cubaris genus, cited as isopods that thrive in tropical climates. Despite their name, Amber Firefly isopods don’t emit light like fireflies. But their amber-coloured exoskeleton is so vibrant that they tend to catch attention even in dimly lit settings. One thing to know about these isopods is that they feed on decomposing organic matter, which makes them excellent cleaners for vivariums and terrariums. These detritivores are native to Central and South America, where they live in a healthy and balanced ecosystem. Basic Care Caring for Amber Firefly isopods is easy. If you have decided to keep these tiny creatures as your pet, you should follow these instructions to provide the best care. Amber Firefly isopods thrive in warm environments. Their ideal temperature range is between 22°C and 28°C. So, make sure to maintain the right temperature inside the terrarium. To keep your Amber Firefly isopods happy and healthy, you should maintain the humidity between 60% and 70%. Using a misting bottle makes it easier to do this. When using the substrate mix for your isopods, make sure it remains damp at all times. However, don’t add too much water, as this can lead to mould growth and is not good for your isopods. Even though Amber Firefly isopods are tiny creatures, they need enough space to move around. To accommodate a small colony of isopods, it is recommended that you get a 10-gallon container or plastic bin. When choosing an enclosure for your isopods, it is important to ensure proper ventilation. After all, they need air to breathe and thrive. If required, you can create additional holes on the sides of the terrarium. Feeding As mentioned before, Amber Fireflies are detritivores, so you can feed them decomposing organic matter. All you have to do is provide the right amount at the right time in their enclosure. Amber Firefly isopods love eating leaf litter, so you can provide them with dried leaves like oak or other hardwood trees. You can easily get these types of leaves outside your home. Just make sure that they are pesticide-free. Another food item you can give to your isopods is decaying wood. For those unversed, it makes an important part of their diet, so you shouldn’t skip it at any cost. Amber Firefly isopods also eat vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, and zucchini so that you can give them small pieces of these foods. In addition to all these items, adding cuttlebone, fish flakes, and calcium powder to their diet is a good idea. This is essential for the growth of their exoskeleton. However, it would help if you kept in mind not to overfeed your isopods because that can lead to issues. Amber Firefly Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour You can easily recognise Amber Firefly isopods because of their stunning amber-coloured exoskeleton. Their unique colouration is appealing and makes them stand apart from other isopods. Many isopods are brown or grey. But Amber Firefly features a striking amber colouration. However, their appearance may vary depending on environmental factors. As far as the size is concerned, Amber Firefly isopods can grow up to 10-18 mm, making them medium-sized compared to other isopods. If you look closely at their body, you will notice the segmentation. They have seven pairs of legs, which allows them to move around quickly when disturbed. In terms of behaviour, Amber Firefly isopods are shy and peaceful. They spend most of their time hiding under decaying wood and leaf litter. Also, they prefer dark, damp environments as they don’t like bright light much. Since they are social creatures, they want to live in colonies with other isopods. Amber Firefly Isopods: Habitat The best way to keep Amber Firefly isopods is to get a terrarium or vivarium. You can use the enclosure entirely or put them in a bioactive setup with other species like amphibians or reptiles. It is recommended that your isopods be kept in a plastic or glass enclosure with proper ventilation and enough space to move around. Like other isopods, Amber Firefly isopods require hiding spots, so you can use leaf litter, cork rounds, and bark to make them feel secure. It would help if you ensured that their enclosure always remains moist. Amber Firefly Isopods: Substrate Mix For Amber Firefly isopods, coco coir can be used as the base substrate because it retains moisture better than other materials. If you cannot find coco coir, use peat moss. This moisture-retaining material adds a natural texture to the substrate. In addition to the base substrate material, leaf litter and decaying wood are also important. These provide a natural food source and a hiding place for your isopods. Combining these materials can create the perfect environment for your tiny pets. Providing them with an environment similar to their natural habitat is important. This way, you can watch your isopods grow and thrive.

  Cubaris sp. "Miyako" (also sold as Iriomotensis "Miyako" or Japanese Red Edge) is a visually striking isopod from Miyako Island in southern Japan. Their dark body contrasted with vivid reddish-orange skirting and antennae makes them immediately recognisable. Native to the limestone forests of their island home, they share care requirements typical of Cubaris species—high humidity, limited ventilation, and calcium-rich substrates. What sets Miyako apart from many Cubaris is their relative hardiness and more accessible price point, making them a reasonable entry into the Cubaris genus for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Miyako Island, Japan Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Miyako" (sometimes listed as Cubaris iriomotensis) Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.2-1.5 cm Rarity: Medium to High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, calcium powder Cubaris sp. Miyako: Introduction Miyako Island is a limestone island in the Okinawa Prefecture of southern Japan, characterised by subtropical forests with high humidity and abundant decaying vegetation. The isopods from this island have adapted to these warm, humid conditions with calcium-rich soil—requirements that translate directly into captive care. The taxonomy of these isopods remains somewhat debated. They're sometimes formally described as Cubaris iriomotensis, though classification discussions continue in the hobby. For practical purposes, "Miyako" identifies this specific locale regardless of the exact species designation. Miyako isopods are sometimes confused with Cubaris murina "Red Edge" due to similar colouration. While both display reddish-orange edging, they're distinct populations with slightly different appearances upon close inspection. If you're familiar with one, you'll notice differences in the other. Compared to some premium Cubaris species, Miyako offer attractive colouration at a more accessible price point. They're not the easiest Cubaris to breed prolifically, but they're hardier than some of the more demanding species, making them a sensible stepping stone for keepers wanting to try Cubaris without immediately jumping to the most challenging (and expensive) options. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.2-1.5 cm Dark, almost black body colouration Striking reddish-orange colouration on the skirting (edges of each segment) Reddish-orange antennae matching the skirt colouration Smooth, glossy carapace with attractive sheen Capable of conglobation (rolling into a ball) though they don't do so as readily as some species Compact, rounded body shape typical of Cubaris The colour contrast between the dark body and vivid orange edging is genuinely eye-catching. Under good lighting, the glossy carapace adds to their visual appeal. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Miyako display typical Cubaris behaviours with some notable characteristics. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will venture out during the day in established colonies. They're more likely to be visible in dim lighting conditions. Conglobation: While capable of rolling into a defensive ball, Miyako don't curl up as readily as some other isopods. They're described as relatively "fearless" compared to more skittish species, often continuing their activities rather than immediately rolling when disturbed. Burrowing: They're active burrowers and enjoy digging into substrate. This behaviour is important to accommodate—shallow substrate frustrates their natural instincts. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They cluster together comfortably and show no aggression toward each other or other species. Stress responses: While hardier than some Cubaris, they're still sensitive to environmental changes. Sudden fluctuations in humidity or temperature can cause stress. Minimise handling and avoid frequent enclosure disturbances. Diet Miyako isopods have dietary requirements typical of Cubaris species, with emphasis on calcium and protein. Primary foods: Decaying hardwood (essential base food) Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting wood in various stages of decay Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato Occasional fruits in small amounts Fish flakes or pellets for protein Dried shrimp Mushrooms (dried or fresh) Calcium requirements: Higher than many species. Their native limestone island environment means they're adapted to calcium-rich conditions. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Inadequate calcium leads to moulting problems and poor health. Protein requirements: Also elevated compared to some species. Regular protein supplementation through fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar sources supports healthy growth and successful breeding. Feeding approach: Maintain a constant supply of leaf litter and decaying wood. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources every few days. Offer small portions initially and observe consumption to avoid overfeeding and potential pest attraction. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Breeding Miyako isopods breed reasonably well in captivity, though they're not as prolific as some beginner species. Breeding difficulty: Medium. They're not the fastest breeders, but with proper conditions, colonies grow steadily. Don't expect explosive population growth—Cubaris generally reproduce more slowly than Porcellio or Armadillidium species. Breeding requirements: Stable high humidity (70-80%) Consistent warm temperatures (22-26°C ideal for breeding) Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein in diet Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Brood characteristics: Females carry developing young in their marsupium and release fully formed juveniles. Brood sizes are moderate. Colony establishment: Starting with a group of 10+ individuals provides the best foundation for a breeding colony. This ensures genetic diversity and a good chance of having both sexes represented. Patience is required—Cubaris colonies develop over months rather than weeks. Tips for success: Stability is key. Avoid frequent substrate changes, temperature fluctuations, or other disturbances. Once conditions are right, let the colony establish without interference. Checking constantly and digging through substrate to count individuals causes stress that inhibits breeding. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid, limestone forest environment. Enclosure: A plastic container or glass terrarium with limited ventilation. Unlike species requiring airflow, Cubaris need humidity retention. A container with minimal ventilation holes or a glass enclosure with restricted airflow works well. Starting size of 6-10 litres suits a starter colony, with larger enclosures for growing populations. If using a glass display enclosure, ensure it retains humidity effectively. The ability to observe these attractive isopods is a genuine benefit of glass, but humidity management becomes the priority. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—these are active burrowers. Provide 10-15cm (4-6 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout Crushed limestone or calcium powder (generous amounts—10% or more) Leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for moisture retention The calcium content is particularly important given their limestone island origins. Don't skimp on limestone or calcium supplements in the substrate mix. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-80%. These are not isopods that tolerate dry conditions: Maintain consistently moist (not waterlogged) substrate Use sphagnum moss patches to hold moisture Mist regularly to maintain humidity Provide a moisture gradient with slightly drier and wetter areas Limited ventilation helps retain humidity Monitor humidity levels, especially in warm weather when evaporation increases. Dry conditions stress Cubaris quickly. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Unlike Mediterranean Porcellio species, Cubaris from humid Asian environments need restricted airflow. Too much ventilation drops humidity to harmful levels. Small ventilation holes or gaps rather than mesh lids work better. Balance is needed—some air exchange prevents stagnation and mould, but prioritise humidity retention over airflow. Lighting: They prefer dim conditions. Avoid bright, direct lighting on the enclosure. Subdued lighting or positioning away from direct light sources keeps them comfortable and more likely to be active and visible. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark sections Limestone pieces (functional and aesthetic) Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Egg cartons or coconut shells as additional hides Provide multiple hiding options throughout. Their burrowing nature means much activity happens below the surface, but surface hides encourage visible activity. Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in most UK homes works during warmer months; supplemental heating may be needed in winter to maintain optimal conditions. Bioactive Use Cubaris sp. Miyako can function in bioactive setups meeting their humidity requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog enclosures Tropical gecko habitats Any high-humidity bioactive system Advantages: Attractive appearance adds visual interest Effective decomposers in humid environments Peaceful coexistence with other cleanup crew species Interesting behaviour to observe Considerations: Not suitable for arid or semi-arid setups Slower breeding than standard cleanup crew species Higher value than typical bioactive isopods Require consistent high humidity that not all setups provide Less ideal for: Dry or Mediterranean-style enclosures Setups with significant humidity fluctuation Situations requiring rapid population growth Budget cleanup crew applications Suitability Cubaris sp. Miyako suit keepers ready to move beyond beginner species into the Cubaris genus. Good choice for: Keepers with basic isopod experience wanting to try Cubaris Those maintaining humid tropical setups Collectors seeking attractive species at accessible prices Bioactive enthusiasts with high-humidity enclosures Anyone wanting visually striking isopods without premium Cubaris prices Not ideal for: Complete beginners (start with P. scaber or similar first) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers wanting rapid colony growth Those unable to maintain consistent humidity Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're among the more forgiving Cubaris species, but still require attention to humidity and substrate depth that beginner species don't demand. Keepers comfortable maintaining stable humid conditions will find them straightforward. Those accustomed to hardy, dry-tolerant species may need to adjust their approach. Compared to other Cubaris: More accessible than premium species like Rubber Ducky or Panda King in both price and difficulty. They offer genuine Cubaris appeal—the colouration, the behaviour, the care requirements—without the steep learning curve and cost of the most demanding species. A sensible choice for testing whether Cubaris keeping suits you before investing in rarer options. Expectations: Expect attractive, interesting isopods that reward proper care with steady (not explosive) colony growth. Their colouration genuinely impresses, and their behaviour—particularly the burrowing and relative boldness—adds interest beyond just visual appeal. Don't expect them to thrive with neglect or fluctuating conditions, but do expect success with consistent, appropriate husbandry.

This is Cubaris sp. "Salmon" from Martinique - a Caribbean Cubaris with distinctive salmon-pink colouration. The current description mentions ABG mix which contains some components I'll adjust. I'll write a comprehensive description in your format. Cubaris sp. "Salmon" is a Caribbean Cubaris originating from Martinique in the French West Indies. Named for their distinctive deep orange-pink colouration reminiscent of salmon sushi, they're one of the more visually unusual Cubaris available. Their tropical island origins mean they require high humidity and warmth, but compared to some Asian Cubaris species, they're considered relatively tolerant and accessible. For keepers wanting an attractive Cubaris with genuine personality, Salmon isopods offer good value—particularly at their current reduced pricing. A Glimpse Origin: Martinique, French West Indies (Caribbean) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Salmon" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.4-1.6 cm Rarity: Medium to High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 22-27°C (71-80°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-85% (high) Favorite food: Decaying vegetation, leaf litter, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, calcium powder Cubaris sp. Salmon: Introduction Martinique is a volcanic island in the Caribbean's Lesser Antilles, characterised by tropical rainforest, high humidity, and warm temperatures year-round. The isopods from this island have evolved in consistently humid, warm conditions—requirements that translate directly into captive care. The "Salmon" name comes from their colouration, which genuinely resembles the pink-orange hue of salmon flesh. It's an apt description—when you see them, the name makes immediate sense. This natural colour morph stands out among Cubaris species, most of which display darker or more muted tones. Compared to many Asian Cubaris species that demand precise conditions and punish any fluctuations, Salmon isopods are considered more forgiving. They're still Cubaris—they still need high humidity and appropriate care—but they're described as more tolerant to minor variations than some of the notoriously fussy species. This makes them a reasonable option for keepers with some experience wanting to explore Cubaris without immediately tackling the most demanding species. A note on naming: "Salmon isopods" can technically refer to marine parasitic isopods that affect fish. The isopods sold here are entirely terrestrial, harmless Cubaris species—completely different animals despite the shared common name. Cubaris sp. Salmon: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.4-1.6 cm Distinctive deep orange-pink colouration (the "salmon" hue) Thick, robust exoskeleton Capable of full conglobation (rolling into a tight defensive ball) Rounded, compact body shape typical of Cubaris Smooth carapace with subtle sheen Colouration consistent across individuals (natural morph, not selectively bred) The colour is genuinely striking—not subtle. Under good lighting, their salmon-pink tones are immediately apparent and quite unlike most other isopod species. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Salmon display typical Cubaris behaviours with some characteristics worth noting. Activity patterns: Nocturnal. They prefer darkness and will be most active during evening and night hours. During the day, expect them to remain hidden in substrate or under cover. Keeping them in darker locations encourages more visible activity. Conglobation: They readily roll into defensive balls when disturbed—a classic Cubaris trait. This defensive response is reliable and complete. Burrowing: Active burrowers that dig into substrate to maintain moisture and feel secure. Deep substrate accommodates this natural behaviour. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They form loose colonies without aggression and coexist well with springtails and other cleanup crew species. Temperature tolerance: Described as tolerant to temperature variation compared to some Cubaris, though "tolerant" is relative—they still need warmth and shouldn't be subjected to cold conditions or extreme fluctuations. Breeding behaviour: They breed throughout the year when conditions are stable, producing moderate brood sizes at a reasonable rate. Diet Salmon isopods are not picky eaters—they accept a wide variety of foods. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying plant matter Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: sweet potato, carrot, courgette, potato Leafy vegetable scraps Occasional fruits Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Algae (they consume it naturally) Protein requirements: Moderate protein supplementation supports healthy growth and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar protein sources should be offered regularly. Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, crushed oyster shell, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Feeding approach: They're good eaters that accept most offerings. Provide amounts they can consume in a sitting—overfeeding can attract pests even in humid enclosures. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours. Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood as baseline food sources. Cubaris sp. Salmon: Breeding Salmon isopods breed reasonably well in captivity with moderate effort. Breeding rate: Moderate. They're not explosive breeders, but colonies grow steadily under appropriate conditions. They breed year-round rather than seasonally. Brood characteristics: Females carry developing young and release fully formed juveniles. Brood sizes are described as small to average—not huge numbers, but consistent production. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-85%) Stable warm temperatures (22-27°C) Adequate calcium for gravid females Sufficient protein in diet Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Colony establishment: Starting with a group provides better breeding success through genetic diversity and guaranteed mixed sexes. Their moderate breeding rate means patience is needed—colonies develop over months. Tips for success: Stability matters more than perfection. Consistent conditions encourage breeding; frequent disturbances or fluctuating parameters inhibit it. Once established, let colonies develop without constant intervention. Cubaris sp. Salmon: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid Caribbean forest environment. Enclosure: A container or terrarium with limited ventilation to retain humidity. Plastic containers with minimal ventilation holes work well for culturing; glass enclosures allow better viewing of these attractive isopods but require attention to humidity retention. A 6-10 litre container suits a starter colony. Locking or secure lids prevent escapes and help maintain moisture levels. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—these are active burrowers seeking moisture. Provide 8-10cm (3-4 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout for moisture retention Crushed limestone or calcium powder generously incorporated Hardwood leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for additional moisture retention Charcoal pieces (optional, aids drainage and reduces odour) The substrate should retain moisture well while allowing some drainage to prevent waterlogging. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-85%. Their Caribbean origins mean they're adapted to consistently humid conditions: Maintain moist (not waterlogged) substrate throughout Keep approximately 75% of the enclosure moist, 25% slightly drier Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches help retain moisture between misting Limited ventilation preserves humidity Monitor humidity levels. If substrate dries out, they'll burrow deeper seeking moisture—consistently dry conditions cause stress and inhibit breeding. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Restrict airflow to maintain humidity. Small ventilation holes rather than mesh lids prevent excessive moisture loss. Some air exchange prevents stagnation, but humidity retention is the priority. Lighting: They prefer darkness. Keep enclosures away from direct light and bright areas. Dim conditions encourage activity and reduce stress. If using a display enclosure, position it away from windows and bright room lighting. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Coconut shell halves Lotus pods Egg carton sections Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Decaying wood pieces Multiple hiding options allow individuals to establish comfortable spaces and form loose colony groupings without competition. Temperature: 22-27°C (71-80°F). They need warmth reflecting their tropical origins. Room temperature in heated UK homes usually suffices, but monitor during colder months. Avoid cold locations and temperature drops below 20°C. Springtails: Adding springtails is highly recommended. High humidity environments can develop mould; springtails consume mould and help maintain enclosure cleanliness. They coexist peacefully with Salmon isopods and benefit the overall ecosystem. Bioactive Use Cubaris sp. Salmon can function in bioactive setups meeting their humidity requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko enclosures High-humidity planted terrariums Advantages: Attractive colouration adds visual interest Effective decomposers in humid environments Peaceful coexistence with other species Year-round activity and breeding Considerations: Require consistently high humidity Not suitable for arid or semi-arid setups Moderate breeding means slower population recovery if predation occurs Higher value than standard cleanup crew species Less ideal for: Dry or Mediterranean-style enclosures Setups with fluctuating humidity Enclosures with heavy predation pressure Budget cleanup crew applications where fast breeding matters Suitability Cubaris sp. Salmon suit keepers wanting attractive Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with basic isopod experience ready for Cubaris Those maintaining humid tropical setups Collectors seeking unusual colouration Bioactive enthusiasts with high-humidity enclosures Anyone wanting visually distinctive isopods at reasonable prices Not ideal for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers unable to maintain consistent warmth and humidity Those wanting rapid population explosions Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're considered more tolerant than some Cubaris species, making them accessible for keepers with foundational experience. The key requirements—high humidity, warmth, deep substrate—are straightforward to provide with basic equipment. They're a sensible introduction to Cubaris for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. Compared to other Cubaris: More forgiving than demanding species like Rubber Ducky or some Thai cave Cubaris. Their Caribbean origins seem to produce hardier animals than some Asian species that evolved in very specific microhabitats. At current sale pricing, they offer excellent value for an attractive, manageable Cubaris species. Expectations: Expect attractive isopods with genuine visual appeal that reward stable conditions with steady breeding. Their salmon colouration is distinctive and eye-catching. Don't expect them to tolerate neglect or dry conditions, but do expect reasonable success with consistent, appropriate care. They're a good stepping stone toward more demanding Cubaris species if that's your direction, or simply enjoyable to keep in their own right.

Crabby Isopods (Cubaris sp.): The Captivating Cave Dwellers Crabby Isopods are an extraordinary species of Cubaris that have captured the hearts of isopod enthusiasts worldwide. Originating from the mysterious limestone caves of Thailand, these remarkable crustaceans bring a unique charm to any terrarium or bioactive setup. Their distinctive appearance and fascinating behaviour make them a prized addition to any serious collector's menagerie. Species Overview Place of Origin: Thailand Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Subphylum: Crustacea Order: Isopoda Family: Armadillidiidae Genus: Cubaris Species: Cubaris sp. "Crabby" Key Care Requirements Maintenance Effort: Medium Ideal Temperature Range: 72°F-80°F (22°C-27°C) Reproduction Rate: Slow to Moderate Ventilation: High General Size: 15-18mm Rarity Level: Rare Humidity Range: 70%-80% Preferred Diet: Leaf litter, vegetables, protein supplements Essential Supplements: Limestone, cuttlefish bone, calcium powder Natural Habitat and Behaviour In their native Thailand, Crabby Isopods inhabit the cool, humid environment of limestone caves and karst formations. These underground sanctuaries provide the perfect combination of high humidity, stable temperatures, and abundant calcium sources that these remarkable creatures require to thrive. Like most Cubaris species, Crabby Isopods are naturally shy and secretive creatures. They spend much of their time burrowing through substrate layers and hiding beneath cork bark, emerging primarily during nighttime hours to forage for food. This fossorial behaviour makes them excellent candidates for bioactive vivarium setups where they can fulfil their natural role as ecosystem engineers. Physical Characteristics These medium-sized isopods display the characteristic charm that has made Cubaris species so popular among collectors. Their robust exoskeleton provides protection whilst their distinctive colouration helps them blend seamlessly into their cave environment. Like other members of the Armadillidiidae family, they possess the ability to roll into a protective ball when threatened, earning them the classification as true "pill bugs". Adult Crabby Isopods typically reach 15-18mm in length, making them substantial enough to observe their fascinating behaviours whilst remaining manageable in captive environments. Their segmented bodies and prominent antennae give them an endearing appearance that has captivated hobbyists worldwide. Diet and Nutrition As natural detritivores, Crabby Isopods play a crucial ecological role in breaking down organic matter. In captivity, their diet should consist primarily of aged leaf litter and decaying hardwood, which form the foundation of their nutritional needs. Understanding their feeding habits is essential for maintaining a healthy colony. Supplement their natural diet with small portions of organic vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and squash. High-quality protein sources like fish flakes, dried shrimp, or specialised isopod pellets should be offered 2-3 times per week to support healthy moulting and reproduction. Calcium supplementation is absolutely critical for Crabby Isopods. Provide limestone chunks, powdered calcium, cuttlefish bone, or crushed eggshells to replicate the calcium-rich environment of their natural limestone caves. This mineral supplementation supports proper exoskeleton development and successful moulting cycles. Creating the Perfect Enclosure Successfully keeping Crabby Isopods requires replicating their natural cave environment. Start with a well-ventilated plastic container of at least 6-quart capacity for a starter culture. Proper ventilation is essential - create multiple airflow holes covered with fine mesh to maintain air circulation whilst preventing escapes. The substrate should be at least 6 inches deep to accommodate their burrowing behaviour. Use a moisture-retentive mix combining organic compost, leaf mould, and decomposed hardwood. Add a layer of sphagnum moss in one section to create humidity gradients and hiding opportunities. Furnish the enclosure with cork bark pieces, limestone chunks, and abundant leaf litter. These elements serve multiple purposes: providing hiding spots, creating microclimates, offering food sources, and supplying essential calcium. The setup should mimic the layered environment of their natural cave habitat. Temperature and Humidity Management Maintain temperatures between 72-80°F (22-27°C) to keep your Crabby Isopods active and healthy. Avoid dramatic temperature fluctuations, as these can stress the colony and impact reproduction rates. A consistent warm environment encourages natural behaviours and steady growth. High humidity levels of 70-80% are essential, but ensure adequate ventilation to prevent stagnant air and mould issues. Monitor moisture levels carefully - the substrate should feel damp but never waterlogged. Create a moisture gradient with one end slightly drier to give isopods options for thermoregulation. Breeding and Colony Development Crabby Isopods reproduce at a moderate pace once established, typically producing small broods of 5-15 offspring. Females carry their eggs in a marsupium (brood pouch) for approximately 4-6 weeks before releasing miniature versions of the adults called mancae. Successful breeding requires stable conditions, adequate nutrition, and minimal disturbance. Young isopods remain with their mother for several weeks, receiving nourishment and protection during their vulnerable early stages. Building a thriving colony takes patience, but established cultures can provide years of enjoyment. Care Difficulty and Considerations Crabby Isopods are classified as medium-difficulty species, making them suitable for keepers with some prior isopod experience. They require more attention to environmental parameters than beginner species but are more forgiving than the most challenging Cubaris varieties. Success with this species depends on maintaining consistent conditions, providing proper nutrition, and understanding their shy nature. They prefer minimal handling and disturbance, thriving best when left to establish their own routines within a well-designed habitat. For newcomers to the hobby, consider starting with beginner-friendly species before advancing to these more specialised Cubaris varieties. However, dedicated keepers who research proper care techniques will find Crabby Isopods to be rewarding and fascinating terrarium inhabitants. Why Choose Crabby Isopods? These remarkable creatures offer a unique combination of beauty, behaviour, and biological function that makes them standout additions to any collection. Their role as bioactive cleanup crew members makes them invaluable in naturalistic setups, where they continuously work to process organic waste and maintain healthy substrate conditions. Beyond their practical benefits, Crabby Isopods provide endless opportunities for observation and study. Their complex social behaviours, moulting cycles, and reproductive strategies offer insights into the fascinating world of terrestrial crustaceans. Whether you're selecting species for your collection or seeking unique additions to your terrarium, Crabby Isopods represent an excellent choice for dedicated enthusiasts ready to provide the specialised care these remarkable creatures deserve. Shipping Information Isopods are posted Monday to Thursday using Royal Mail's next day by 1pm service Plus 20% overcount sent with every order 24/7 live chat available - We are always here and happy to chat! (subject to sleeping) Helpful Resources Cubaris Isopod Care: A Comprehensive Guide What Do Woodlice Eat? Top Foods and Feeding Habits Explained Top Isopod Species for Your Vivarium How to Choose the Right Isopod Species Best Isopods for Beginners (UK Edition)

Cubaris sp. "Frosty Jupiter" is a selectively bred colour morph of the popular Jupiter isopod, displaying reduced pigmentation that gives them a pale, frosted appearance compared to the standard variety. They retain the characteristic Jupiter patterning - light skirts, darker middle sections, and bright edges between body segments - but in softer, lighter tones. Whether this is a true albino, leucistic, or hypomelanistic mutation is debated, but either way, they're an attractive variation on an already appealing species. We'll be honest: having kept normal Jupiters for about three years before adding Frosty Jupiters to our collection in 2025, we still genuinely prefer the standard variety. The contrast on normal Jupiters is more striking in our opinion. That said, Frosty Jupiters are still a very cool-looking isopod and worth considering if you want something a bit different. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (selectively bred morph) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Frosty Jupiter" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 15-20mm Rarity: Medium-High Lifespan: 1.5-2 years Temperature: 64°F-79°F (18°C-26°C) Ventilation: Low-Medium Humidity: 60-70% Favourite food: Leaf litter, vegetables, forest moss Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, limestone, protein 2x weekly Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Introduction Frosty Jupiters are a colour mutation of the standard Cubaris sp. "Jupiter", which originates from the limestone caves of Thailand. The Frosty morph has been selectively bred to express reduced pigmentation, resulting in paler colouration while maintaining the distinctive banded pattern that gives Jupiters their planetary appearance. Care requirements are identical to standard Jupiters - if you can keep one, you can keep the other. The main difference we've observed is behavioural rather than care-related: our Frosty Jupiters tend to hang around on lichen-covered twigs more than the normal variety, which prefer hiding under cork bark. This might suggest the Frosties are slightly less light-sensitive than standard Jupiters, despite their pale appearance. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach 15-20mm, making them a medium-sized Cubaris. Colouration is pale cream, white, or light yellow where standard Jupiters would show darker tones. The distinctive Jupiter patterning remains - light edges (skirts), darker central sections, and bright lines between each body segment. They appear slightly stockier than normal Jupiters, though this may just be a visual effect of the lighter colouration (horizontal stripes aren't always slimming, as it turns out). Like all Cubaris, they can roll into a defensive ball when threatened. The gene responsible is thought to be leucistic or hypomelanistic rather than true albino. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Diet Feed Frosty Jupiters the same diet as standard Jupiters and other Cubaris species. Leaf litter should always be available - oak, beech, and other hardwood leaves work well. This is their primary food source. Rotting wood, particularly white-rotted softwood, provides essential nutrition and should be included in the enclosure. Vegetables like carrots, sweet potato, and butternut squash are readily accepted. Remove uneaten portions after a day or two. Protein is important - feed fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar protein sources twice weekly. Calcium via cuttlefish bone or limestone is essential. Like other Cubaris from limestone cave environments, Jupiters benefit from having limestone pieces in their enclosure. This may help maintain colouration and supports healthy moulting. Forest moss and lichens are particularly appreciated by this species - they seem to enjoy grazing on these. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Behaviour Jupiter isopods, including the Frosty morph, are shy creatures. They spend most of their time hidden and are primarily nocturnal. Don't expect a highly visible colony - these aren't isopods you'll see wandering around during the day. They have a calm temperament and aren't aggressive. When disturbed, they'll typically freeze or roll into a ball. One interesting observation from our colony: Frosty Jupiters seem slightly bolder than standard Jupiters, spending more time visible on lichen-covered branches rather than hiding under cork bark. Whether this is specific to our colony or a general trait of the morph, we can't say for certain. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Breeding Like standard Jupiters, the Frosty morph is a slow breeder. They're described as seasonal breeders with a modest reproduction rate, though breeding can continue year-round under stable conditions. Patience is required - don't expect rapid colony growth. This is normal for the species and not a sign of problems. Consistent conditions (stable temperature, humidity, and food supply) are more important than any specific breeding triggers. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Habitat Care is identical to standard Jupiters. A 6-litre container works for a starter colony. Temperature: 64-79°F (18-26°C). They don't like it too warm - this is a cave-dwelling species adapted to stable, moderate temperatures. Humidity: 60-70%. Maintain a moisture gradient with around one-third of the enclosure kept moist using sphagnum moss, while the rest remains drier. They don't appreciate overly dry conditions. Ventilation: Low to medium. Ensure some airflow but don't overventilate - they need humidity retention. Substrate: Use a soil-based mix at least 2-3 inches deep. Include: Organic topsoil as a base Rotting white wood pieces Leaf litter mixed through and on the surface Limestone pieces or chunks Sphagnum moss for the moist section Hides and décor: Cork bark provides essential hiding spots. Based on our experience, including some lichen-covered twigs or branches is worthwhile - Frosty Jupiters seem to particularly enjoy these. Who Are Frosty Jupiter Isopods Suited For? These suit keepers with some Cubaris experience who want a colour variation on the popular Jupiter species. They're not significantly harder to keep than standard Jupiters, so if you've successfully maintained those (or similar Cubaris), Frosty Jupiters should be manageable. If you're choosing between Frosty and standard Jupiters for your first Jupiter colony, we'd actually suggest starting with the normal variety - the colour contrast is more dramatic and they're typically a bit cheaper. But if you already have standard Jupiters and want to add something different, or you specifically prefer the paler aesthetic, Frosty Jupiters are a solid choice. For complete Cubaris beginners, consider starting with easier species like Panda King or Cubaris murina before moving to Jupiters of either variety.

Orange Freezy Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a visually distinctive species from Thailand, recognised for their bright yellowish-orange colouration and semi-transparent "skirts" along their body edges. The name comes from their appearance - the translucent quality gives them a look as though they've been frozen in place. They're a larger Cubaris species, reaching around 20mm, with a chunky, wide body shape that makes them satisfying to observe. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (possibly also Malaysia) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Orange Freezy" Maintenance required: Easy Average Size: Up to 20mm Rarity: Uncommon Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 75°F-82°F (24°C-28°C) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 55-70% Favourite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, limestone Orange Freezy Isopods: Introduction Orange Freezy isopods have become increasingly popular in the hobby due to their striking appearance and relatively manageable care requirements. While they're sometimes labelled as difficult, keepers with some prior Cubaris experience generally find them straightforward to maintain. They originate from tropical regions of Thailand and possibly Malaysia, though exact locality information is limited. One thing to be aware of: this species is sometimes incorrectly sold as "Orange Frenzy" - if you see that name, it's likely the same isopod. Orange Freezy Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics One of the larger Cubaris species, adults reach approximately 20mm in length. Their bodies are notably wide and chunky compared to other Cubaris, giving them a robust, almost cuboid appearance. The bright orange colouration is their defining feature, with semi-transparent edges or "skirts" around their body segments. This translucent quality creates the "frozen" appearance that gives them their name. Like other Cubaris, they can roll into a ball (conglobate) when threatened. Primarily nocturnal, so don't expect to see them much during the day. Orange Freezy Isopods: Diet Orange Freezy isopods are detritivores with a good appetite. They benefit from a varied diet. Primary food sources: White rotting wood is particularly important for this species Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia) Decaying organic matter Vegetables: Carrots, squash, radishes, and sweet potato work well Remove uneaten portions within a day or two, especially in humid conditions where food spoils quickly Protein: Feed protein sources once or twice weekly Freeze-dried minnows, shrimp, fish flakes, or dried insects Offer protein foods on the drier side of the enclosure to prevent spoilage Calcium: Cuttlefish bone is readily consumed Limestone chunks or pellets - they seem particularly fond of these Crushed eggshells or oyster shell Orange Freezy Isopods: Behaviour Like many Cubaris species, Orange Freezy isopods are shy and reclusive. They spend most of their time hidden and are primarily active at night. Don't expect a highly visible colony - these are isopods you'll need to lift hides to observe, at least until the population grows larger. They're not aggressive and have a calm temperament. When disturbed, they'll typically freeze or roll into a protective ball. Orange Freezy Isopods: Breeding Breeding rate is slow compared to many other isopod species. Expect to wait several months before seeing offspring, even with ideal care. This is normal for the species - patience is required. Once established, colonies will steadily grow, but don't expect rapid population explosions. Consistent conditions are key to encouraging breeding. Avoid fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Orange Freezy Isopods: Habitat A 6-litre sealed container is adequate for a starter colony of 10-15 individuals. Larger enclosures of 12 litres or more are better for established colonies. Temperature: These are tropical isopods that prefer warmth. Keep temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s°F (24-28°C). Avoid temperature swings - stability is more important than hitting an exact number. Humidity: Maintain 55-70% humidity. Unlike some Cubaris, Orange Freezy don't necessarily need a distinct moisture gradient - they can tolerate more uniform conditions. However, keeping one area slightly moister with sphagnum moss is still good practice. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation is needed. These aren't as sensitive to airflow as some Cubaris species, but still avoid stagnant conditions. Substrate: Use a soil-based mix at least 2-3 inches deep. Include: Organic topsoil as a base Rotting white wood pieces (important for nutrition) Leaf litter mixed through and on top Limestone pieces or chunks - they genuinely seem to appreciate these, likely mimicking their natural cave environments Hides: Provide cork bark, rotten wood, and moss coverage. Multiple hiding spots help them feel secure. Who Are Orange Freezy Isopods Suited For? These isopods are best suited for keepers with some prior experience, particularly with other Cubaris species. They're not as demanding as some of the more sensitive Cubaris varieties, but they do need consistent conditions to thrive. Complete beginners should consider starting with easier species first. For intermediate keepers looking for a visually striking Cubaris without extreme care requirements, Orange Freezy are a solid choice. Their bright colouration and chunky body shape make them rewarding to keep, even if you won't see them as often as more active species.

If you are a fan of unique pets or love discovering nature’s tiny wonders, Rubber Bee isopods will surely grab your attention because they are colorful and lovely. With their striking appearance and armored bodies, they stand apart from other species and give you a chance to own a pet so rare that you cannot find it in the wild anywhere else but Thailand, the origin country. Rubber Bee Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Rarity: Rare Difficulty Level: Moderate Temperature: 21-27°C Size: Up to 15 mm Humidity: 70-80% Favorite Foods: Rotting wood, Decaying leaf litter, cork bark, lichen, moss, and gammarus shrimp An Overview Rubber Bees otherwise named as Rubber Ducky isopods are small, colorful creatures native to Thailand. Popular for the yellow-and-black markings on their bodies, it also sets them apart from other species in the region. For being a land ispods, the Rubber Bee has moderate care requirements, and it means that it need of more attention than entry-level species and need an experienced care-taker.  To have them as your pet translates to hard work and start with creating a bioactive terrarium followed with an ideal environment mimicking their natural habitat in the wild. These isopods are colorful and fun to watch, making them a great addition to any setup. Rubber Bee Isopods: Basic Care Here are some basic care tips to get you started with your journey as a keeper: Like other isopods, Rubber Bees cannot tolerate high temperatures and may become ill if the temperature is not kept between 21 °C and 27°C, the ideal range for their survival. Since they need high humidity, you should mist the enclosure regularly to prevent it from becoming excessively dry. Adding plenty of hiding spots can make the setup more comfortable. This encourages natural behavior and gives your isopods a place to rest and seek cover. Make sure there is proper airflow within the enclosure. Otherwise, your isopods will struggle to breathe and even suffocate. Rubber Bee Isopods: Feeding Since Rubber Bee Isopods are scavengers, they eat dead plants, old wood, and fallen leaves, so you must include all that in their diet in captivity. Feeding them is not a dreadful task and a combination of dried leaves, pieces of rotting wood, and special isopod foods sold in pet stores to balance their diet is indeed the best. They also love occasional treats like slices of carrots, cucumbers, or fish flakes, but make sure not to overfeed them, or else it will harm their health. Rubber Bee Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour Rubber Bee Isopods are tiny but striking, mainly because of their black bodies and bright yellow bands that make them look like little bees. Their shell is also soft and flexible, unlike any other species. They are pretty much social in nature and like to socialize in their colony, but you won’t see them before night because, during the daytime, they hide and rest underneath the leaf litter. They love to burrow in the soil and hide under leaves or wood, which is why you need to add plenty of substrates so they can carry on with their natural behavior without constraints. Rubber Bee Isopods: Habitat When creating the perfect habitat, you must mimic their natural environment so they can thrive in moist, shady places and have many hiding spots to seek cover. Only opt for the terrarium that has holes in the lid which ensures the proper airflow. Check on the humidity level as it is crucial as well. To maintain the same, mist the enclosure regularly and avoid placing it in direct sunlight because it can dry out the habitat quickly. Rubber Bee Isopods: Substrate Mix A good substrate mix can hold moisture and contains 50% organic topsoil, 25% coconut fiber, and 25% leaf litter, but without any fertilizer or harsh chemicals. Otherwise, your isopods can fall sick or even die. You can also add small pieces of rotting wood and crushed oyster shells so they can have their calcium fill and their exoskeleton can develop better and stronger.