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Thunder Dragon Isopods (Ardentiella)
£135.00
Thunder Dragon Isopods: A Glimpse
Origin: Thailand
Scientific Name: Ardentiella (ex Merulanella)
Size: Up to 17 mm
Difficulty Level: Hard
Temperature: 21-28°C
Humidity: 70-85%
Rarity: Very rare
Favorite Foods: Fruits, greens, fish food, vegetables, decaying leaves, rotting wood.
An Overview
A Ardentiella genus isopod, Thunder Dragons is native to Thailand. However, they are extremely rare, which is why they cannot be found easily, not even in the pet trade.
Known for their bold look and unique charm, they thrive in specific conditions, without which they cannot survive or have molting issues. They prefer high-humidity areas, where temperatures don’t rise above 21-28°C or fluctuate much.
Thunder Dragon isopods are not just pets but nature’s magic. They are adorable to look at when they move around in their enclosure in captivity. Because of their strong bodies and calm nature, they are easy to love, but they have care requirements above basic.
Thunder Dragon Isopods: Basic Care
With some basic care tips, you can easily maintain Thunder Dragon isopods as pets:
Their priority is a clean moist environment with good airflow and ventilation to breathe easily and not feel discomfort.
Maintain a stable and humid environment and to achieve one, you should create one in captivity and give them a chance to live their best lives without health issues.
With using a plastic container, you can create their enclosure, but it should be big and have enough space for them to move around freely without feeling cramped.
Keep an eye on the enclosure regularly and ensure it is not too dry or wet, as these conditions can create problems.
Thunder Dragon Isopods: Feeding
A balanced diet consisting of vegetables, dry leaves, rotting wood, and fruits ensures your isopods are healthy and get the nutrients required. For calcium sources, give cuttlebone because it is good for its exoskeleton and helps it develop better.
Thunder Dragon Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour
Might be an eye-catching creatures, but they have a hard, armor-like shell protecting them from predators if attacked.
Their dark grey shade with a hint of purple or blue on their back enhances their appeal and makes them stand out from other species.
Although they move slowly, they are very curious about their surroundings and become active at night, when the world is asleep and there are no threats around.
Thunder Dragon Isopods: Habitat
Creating the right habitat for Thunder Dragon Isopods is essential because, without it, they cannot survive or be happy, no matter how hard they try. They prefer a moist setup and stable temperature to live comfortably and not face health issues like they do when the specific conditions change drastically. Since they stay in hiding, adding plenty of cork bark, rocks, and leaf litter encourages their natural behavior, so make sure not to mess that up.
Thunder Dragon Isopods: Substrate Mix
Making a ground material for their terrarium is not that of a difficult task and you can mix dried leaves, organic soil, and coco fiber, but ensure they are free of chemicals, or else they can harm your isopods. Adding a few pieces of rotten wood and crushed eggshells because they provide important minerals and ensure their exoskeleton doesn’t weaken is a good call.
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Giant Mandarin Isopods (Cubaris)
£30.00
Giant Mandarin Isopods - Cubaris sp. 'Giant Mandarin'
Meet the impressive larger cousin of the beloved Mandarin isopod! These striking orange beauties from Thailand command attention with their substantial size and distinctive red eyes. Giant Mandarins represent one of the most visually spectacular Cubaris species available, combining the gorgeous tangerine coloration of their smaller relatives with an impressive adult size that makes them truly stand out in any bioactive setup.
A Glimpse
• Origin: Thailand (Captive Bred) • Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Giant Mandarin' • Difficulty Level: Moderate - Intermediate Friendly • Adult Size: Up to 17mm (0.67 inches) • Rarity: High • Temperature: 72°F to 82°F (22°C to 28°C) • Humidity: 60% to 80% with moisture gradient • Favorite Foods: Fruits, vegetables, fish food, decaying wood, leaf litter • Supplements: High-protein diet twice weekly, calcium sources
Overview
Giant Mandarin isopods are a spectacular larger species that truly lives up to their name - reaching approximately three times the size of regular Cubaris murina 'Mandarin' isopods. These chunky, beautiful crustaceans showcase the classic mandarin orange coloration that gives them their citrus-inspired name, enhanced by their distinctive red eyes that create an absolutely stunning appearance. Originally isolated from Thailand, they're believed to be related to Cubaris sp. Giant Marina, sharing similar size characteristics but with their own unique orange pigmentation. Their impressive adult size of 17mm makes them one of the more substantial Cubaris species in the hobby, perfect for keepers who want maximum visual impact from their isopod colonies.
Basic Care
Giant Mandarins require more attention to environmental conditions than beginner species, making them ideal for intermediate keepers ready to step up their isopod game. They thrive in consistently warm temperatures between 72-82°F, with stability being more important than hitting exact numbers. Humidity should remain between 60-80%, with essential moisture gradients throughout their enclosure - never uniformly wet conditions. These semi-fossorial isopods appreciate deeper substrates for their natural burrowing behaviors, though they also spend considerable time foraging through leaf litter and under cork bark pieces. Good ventilation prevents stagnation while maintaining their preferred humid microclimate, and they're particularly sensitive to sudden environmental changes during molting periods.
Feeding
Calcium • Cuttlefish bone pieces (essential for their larger size) • Limestone granules mixed into substrate • Oyster shell pieces • Calcium powder occasionally dusted on foods
Protein (Essential - Feed Twice Weekly) • High-quality fish flakes or pellets • Dried minnows or river shrimp • Freeze-dried bloodworms • Reptile shed skin when available • Specialized isopod protein mixes
Primary Diet • Sweet fruits (their absolute favorite - apples, oranges, mango) • Fresh vegetables (sweet potato, carrot, squash, zucchini) • White rotten wood pieces • Hardwood leaf litter (oak, birch, maple) • Forest moss and lichens
Appearance and Behaviour
Giant Mandarins are absolutely breathtaking with their vibrant tangerine-orange coloration that intensifies with age and proper nutrition. Their most striking feature is their bright red eyes, which create a beautiful contrast against their warm orange bodies. Adults reach an impressive 17mm, making them substantially larger than most Cubaris species and easy to observe. They exhibit typical Cubaris "duck face" characteristics with their rounded heads and can roll into perfect balls when threatened. These isopods are surprisingly active during both day and night, though they become most animated during evening hours. They're naturally social creatures that often aggregate in favored hiding spots, and their foraging behavior resembles tiny pigs rooting through substrate layers. When disturbed, they either conglobate or exhibit rapid escape responses, quickly scuttling to safety.
Habitat
A minimum 12-quart container works for starter colonies, but Giant Mandarins truly thrive in larger 25+ quart setups or 10+ gallon terrariums that accommodate their size and active nature. Substrate depth should be 3-4 inches minimum to support their burrowing instincts, with distinct moisture zones created throughout. Approximately one-third of the enclosure should remain consistently moist using sphagnum moss patches, while the remainder stays moderately humid but not wet. Cork bark pieces, wooden hides, and thick leaf litter coverage provide essential shelter and foraging opportunities. These isopods are excellent climbers, so secure ventilation at the container top is crucial. Temperature gradients aren't necessary, but consistent warmth throughout their habitat supports healthy molting and breeding behaviors.
Substrate Mix
Create optimal conditions with this specialized mixture:
Base Layer (60%): • Premium organic topsoil (pesticide-free) • Deciduous forest humus for moisture retention • Small amount of peat moss for pH buffering
Organic Amendments (25%): • White rotten wood pieces (15% - critical nutrition source) • Aged hardwood leaf mold • Small pieces of cork bark
Mineral Supplements (15%): • Limestone granules (10% - essential calcium) • Oyster shell pieces for ongoing calcium supplementation • Optional: Fine sand for drainage in deeper areas
Moisture Management: Maintain substrate that's consistently moist but never waterlogged in the designated wet zones. The moist sections should use quality sphagnum moss that you mist 2-3 times weekly, creating humidity pockets without oversaturating the entire environment. Monitor moisture levels carefully as Giant Mandarins are sensitive to both desiccation and overly wet conditions. The substrate should feel like a wrung-out sponge in wet areas.
Special Considerations: Giant Mandarins have higher nutritional demands than smaller species, so ensure your substrate includes ample white rotten wood and leaf litter that breaks down slowly. They're particularly fond of sweet decomposing matter, so occasionally adding small pieces of overripe fruit to specific areas can encourage natural foraging behaviors while supplementing their diet.
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Pallasii Orange Isopods (Armadillidium)
£20.00
The feeling of owning a pet is mutual amongst pet lovers, but with isopods, it is drastically different and overwhelming at the same time. These tiny creatures are nothing like other pets that the majority prefer and have in their homes. As a family of crustaceans, Isopods can only thrive in a specific habitat type and expand their colony without external threats. They don’t adapt to your home’s environment, but you have to create an environment for them. A popular choice is Pallasii Orange Isopods because they are easy to keep and maintain.
A Glimpse
Origin: Corfu Island, Greece
Scientific Name: Armadillidium pallasii
Difficulty: Easy
Rarity: Not rare
Temperature: 20-28°C
Size: Up to 2.4 cm
Humidity: 60-80%
Favourable Foods: Decaying plant matter, cuttlebones, fish food flakes, cricket carcasses, dried bloodworms, vegetables, fruits, leaf litter
An Overview
Even though Pallasii Orange Isopods are not as rare as other species, you cannot find them elsewhere outside Corfu Island in Greece, where they originate from.Much bigger, these species can grow up to 2.4 cm long if the conditions are right. Give them a dry environment a dry environment with a moist corner in the enclosure, with the temperature between 20°C and 28°C, and see how actively they grow and thrive.
These isopods are easily recognized because of their vibrant orange coloration and rounded bodies, which they roll into a ball to protect themselves from predators. They are also the largest orange Armadillidium species available.
Pallasii Orange Isopods: Basic Care
Pallasii Orange isopods are ideal for beginners. You can take care of them by following these guidelines.
Use a secure, vented container so your isopods cannot escape. Pick a bigger enclosure because of their bigger size.
Without thinking twice, give them an enclosure with proper airflow, free of mold and bacterial growth.
The humidity levels shouldn’t fluctuate too much as it causes molting issues. Just maintain the range between 50% to 60% and add a moist corner in the terrarium.
They are adaptable to various temperatures but flourish the best at 20 °C and 28°C.
Feeding
Pallasii Orange Isopods eat a range of foods but mostly prefer organic matter as other isopods do. You can add decomposing leaves to their diet because it is both a food source and habitat for them. Besides that, you can feed soft, decaying wood, vegetables, fruits, and everything else that makes their diet nutritious. Add supplements like fish flakes, cricket carcasses, and dried bloodworms for protein sources.
Pallasii Orange Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour
These isopods look stunning because of their bright orange coloration. Due to this reason, many hobbyists prefer them over other species.
For protection, they can roll into a ball and hide their soft bellies from predators.
As a part of their nature, they will come out at night and spend the day in hiding.
They breed very fast and form big colonies if optimal conditions exist.
Pallasii Orange Isopods: Habitat
Pallasii Orange Isopods prefer a dry habitat that is rich in organic material. You can mimic this in captivity by mixing organic soil, coco coir, and decomposing leaves that create a suitable base for them to live and burrow. Add leaf litter and cork bark for hiding spots so they can seek shelter whenever needed. Also, mist the enclosure regularly.
Substrate Mix
Preparing a good substrate mix requires little effort. From collecting various materials to layering them, you need everything essential for your isopods to live comfortably. You can use coco coir and organic soil to make the base layer. As for additives, decomposing leaves are a good choice because they enrich the substrate with nutrients and encourage natural foraging behaviors. Also, add cuttlebone or eggshells for their overall health.
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Piggy Isopods (Cubaris sp)
£40.00
Isopods in the Cubaris genus are highly sought after mainly because they are easy to keep and maintain. If you are a novice and still exploring the idea of keeping the isopods as pets, Cubaris Piggy Isopods makes for a great choice. Small, cute, and characteristics many keepers prefer. As land-dwelling isopods, maintaining an exact environment is not difficult with a bioactive terrarium or vivarium if you intend it to survive.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods: A Glimpse
Origin: Southeast Asia
Scientific Name: Cubaris sp.
Difficulty: Easy
Rarity: Rare
Temperature: 21–27°C
Size: Up to 1.2 cm
Humidity: 70-80%
Favorable Foods: Fruits, veggies, leaf litter, animal waste, decaying wood, cuttlebone, calcium blocks, eggshells, oyster flakes
An Overview
Cubaris Piggy Isopods are found in Southeast Asia. But compared to other species, they are rare. This is why you cannot see them on many online sites or pet shops that sell isopods. Cubaris Piggy Isopods prefer high humidity, between 70 and 80%. But for temperature, you should keep it between 21°C and 27°C so they can live comfortably without exposure to excess heat.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods come in various shades, but the majority are brown or gray. A few may feature unique hues and patterns, but that's not a typical characteristic.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods: Basic Care
With the below-mentioned basic care, you will create a safe space for them:
Terrarium is a secure container which you must own as it gives them a proper ventilation and airflow to negate the chance of mold growing up.
Not much emphasis can be done how important the right temperature is for them which should be between 21°C and 27°C.
To use a moisture-retaining substrate like coconut fiber or sphagnum moss is a good call, as it helps them with burrowing and egg-laying.
You can create hiding spots with cork bark or leaf litter. This will keep your isopods stress-free and let them behave naturally.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods: Feeding
Cubaris Piggy Isopods are detritivores creatures. Based on this, you should feed them decomposing organic materials like leaf litter and decaying wood, essential for their overall development. You must offer small amounts of overripe fruits or vegetables like zucchini or apple slices. For calcium, feed cuttlebone or crushed eggshells, as it is necessary for their exoskeleton.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour
Cubaris Piggy Isopods are small in size. They grow to 1.2 cm long and have a segmented, oval-shaped body. Also, their exoskeleton is hard.
These isopods are generally gray or brown, but if your luck is on your side, you may get your hands on more colors.
Since these isopods are nocturnal, they are most active at night, not during the day.
They can roll into a ball when threatened. It is a defensive behavior that protects them from predators.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods: Habitat
Cubaris Piggy Isopods prefer moist, tropical environments in the wild. You will have to create a similar environment in captivity for them to survive. A substrate mix with coconut fiber, leaf litter, and sphagnum moss is better for them. Also, it allows isopods to burrow and hide. You can make the substrate damp by misting it regularly and checking if it gets waterlogged.
Cubaris Piggy Isopods: Substrate Mix
You cannot keep your isopods without a well-prepared substrate mix. It is essential for their survival, something you cannot take lightly. You can use peat moss or coconut fiber as base material as they retain moisture perfectly. Besides that, you should add dried leaves so your isopods can use them as an additional food source. Also, add small pieces of rotting wood for nutrients and simulate their natural habitat. Provide crushed eggshells or limestone for calcium as it develops their exoskeleton.
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Succinctus Black Rib Isopods (Porcellio)
£50.00
An exotic hobby of keeping isopods as pets has become a common one in recent times, and you will find plenty sharing the same passion. But, it is challenging to choose the right isopod for your captivity. If you are looking for a difficult species, choose Succinctus Black Rib Isopods. These isopods are attractive to look at and also available easily.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods: A Glimpse
Origin: Spain
Scientific Name: Porcellio Succinctus "Black Ribs"
Difficulty: Medium
Rarity: rare
Size: Up to 2.8 cm
Temperature: 15°C to 26°C
Humidity: 45-55%
Favourable Foods: Rotting wood, forest debris, fruits, vegetables, fish food, and cuttlebone.
An Overview
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods are native to Spain. They are a captivating species that many keepers and enthusiasts prefer. What makes these isopods popular is their appearance. You can easily recognize them because of their unique white skirts and black ribbons on their body.
Unlike other isopods, Succinctus Black Rib Isopods cannot tolerate high humidity. They prefer low to medium moisture levels that is essential for their survival.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods are bigger than many other isopod species, and their size grows up to 2.8 cm long and thrives better in moderate temperatures. You must take up the responsibility for a pet to give them a better life and start by giving them the same environment as their habitat.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods: Basic Care
Here are some basic care tips you should follow:
You should add moist corners in the terrarium because it is essential for your isopods' health.
Do not skip on keeping ample airflow and ventilation when preparing the terrarium.
Mimicking their natural surroundings maybe a task, but take extra efforts and add moss, leaf litter, and pieces of decaying white wood so it mimics their natural surroundings.
For their better growth, the ideal temperature range is between 15 and 26°C.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods: Feeding
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods are detritivores. They feed on various organic materials, including fruits, vegetables, greens, forest moss, lichen, decaying leaves, and rotting white. You should provide these things for their development. Cuttlefish bone, limestone, or oyster seashells are a great source of calcium.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods reach up to 2.8 cm in length.
The isopods are best known for their features, like long antennae and uropods, contributing to their impressive appearance.
They are secretive and mostly active at night and early morning.
You should keep them from direct sunlight as they are heat-sensitive.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods: Habitat
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods require a habitat that closely resembles their natural environment. Create multiple moist corners using moss, decaying white wood, and leaf litter so your isopods can live comfortably. This will also maintain the right humidity level, which is essential for their development. The setup should be dry but have good airflow. This way, you can prevent excessive moisture buildup inside the terrarium.
Succinctus Black Rib Isopods: Substrate Mix
Your isopods need a suitable substrate mix. Use organic compost, vermicast, sphagnum moss, crushed leaf litter, rotting wood, and calcium sources. This will help you prepare the perfect substrate mix for your little pets. This will provide the necessary nutrients and environment for your isopods to thrive and reproduce.
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Cubaris Murina Anemone Isopods
£30.00
Murina Anemone Isopods is a small-sized Cubaris species native to Asia. Predominantly found in tropical and subtropical regions of the Southeast Asia region, this species is still somewhat new to bioactive hobbyists and isopod enthusiasts. They have a dark orange colour and random dark splotches on the body. The beginner-friendly isopod can make precious pets because of its variable colour, from solid orange to solid black. The Murina Anemone Isopods are found in shaded and humid environments. These Asian isopods are adaptable and hardy isopods. These beautiful isopods thrive in tropical and arid environments.
A Glimpse
Origin: Asia, North America
Scientific Name: Cubaris sp.
Difficulty: Low
Rarity: Low
Temperature: 22 to 28℃
Size: upto 22 mm
Humidity: 60 to 80%
Favourable Foods: Decaying Leaves, Lichen
An Overview
Murina Anemone Isopods make interesting and beloved pets because of their small size. These Cubaris isopods are native to Asia and the United States (Florida). These Cubaris sp isopods are characterized by their orange-coloured body with black blotches all over.
These South East Asia natives are a mutation of Cubaris Murina isopod. These elegant Cubaris isopods resemble the “Lava” P.Scaber morph in colour. These easy-to-maintain and easy-to-breed isopods can grow from 11mm to 22mm in size. The Murina Anemone Isopods have a hard exterior.
Murina Anemone Isopods are mediumly humid environment thrivers. These Cubaris isopods need a terrarium setup with 60 to 80 percent humidity. As the original climate of Murina Anemone Isopods ranges from tropical to arid, they can grow well in bioactive setups with similar environments.
The Murina Anemone Isopods make ideal pets because of their easy-to-care nature and a high tolerance for variable environments, including subtropical ones. Feeding the Murina Anemone Isopods is not difficult either. The Murina Anemone Isopods can be fed decaying wood and leaf litter.
Basic Care
You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to Murina Anemone Isopods.
You can use an enclosure setup with a medium level of humidity to house the Murina Anemone Isopods.
It is essential to ensure the Murina Anemone Isopods get sufficient protein and organic fresh veggies supply twice a week.
Don’t keep the enclosure in direct light.
Make use of a substrate mix with decaying wood and lots of leaf litter to meet the needs of Murina Anemone Isopods.
You can increase the temperature within the terrarium setup by putting a tank heater on the side of the enclosure.
Feeding Murina Anemone Isopods
Murina Anemone Isopods are relatively easy-to-handle species when it comes to feeding. The Murina Anemone Isopods can feed on leaf litter and decaying wood. These Cubaris isopods consume protein sources and organic fresh vegetables at least twice a week. You can also feed Murina Anemone Isopods, cuttlefish bone, and sphagnum moss.
Appearance And Behaviour
Murina Anemone Isopods thrive in medium to high-humidity environments.
They can make suitable pets for beginners because they are easy to handle and breed as well.
These orangish-coloured isopods resemble the “Lava” P.Scaber morph in colour.
These Cubaris isopods have dark-coloured blotches all over the body.
These are highly adaptable as well as hardy isopods.
Habitat
The Murina Anemone Isopod is a species recognized for its active nature in the day and night. These Cubaris isopods are socializing isopods that can be kept alongside other species in colonies. Reclusive at first, the Murina Anemone Isopods become bolder as their colony increases.
Substrate Mix
The Murina Anemone Isopods will need a substrate mix with leaf litter, deadwood pieces, organic fresh vegetables, and calcium supplements like cuttlefish bone. Isopod collectors can even add sphagnum moss and dried leaves within the bioactive terrarium setup.
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Trachelipus Trilobatus (Trilobite) Isopods
£25.00
Trachelipus Trilobatus are medium-sized species that are native to Russia. Predominantly found near the Black Sea, these flat isopods have a hard exoskeleton. They have a greyish pattern and orange-tinged ring at the base of their exoskeleton. The beginner series isopod can make precious pets even for experienced isopod collectors. The Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods are also found on the coast of Turkey and Georgia in abundance. These Romanian isopods resemble the Porcellio Spatulatus Coros species a lot. These beautiful isopods thrive in mediumly humid environments.
A Glimpse
Origin: Russia, Eastern Europe (Romania)
Scientific Name: Trachelipus Trilobatus
Difficulty: Easy
Rarity: Uncommon
Temperature: 18 to 26℃
Size: 2 cm to 4 cm
Humidity: 60-80%
Favourable Foods: Cuttlebone, eggshells, decaying leaves
An Overview
Trachelipus Trilobatus make beloved and interesting pets because they are rare to find. These Trachelipus isopods are Russian and Romanian species characterized by their greyish pattern and orange-tinged ring at the base of their exoskeleton.
These Eastern European natives have a somewhat flat appearance. These elegant Trachelipus isopods resemble the Porcellio Spatulatus Coros isopods. These easy-to-keep and easy-to-breed isopods are medium-sized species that can grow from 2cm to 4cm in size.
Being a mediumly humid environment thrivers, the Trilobatus Isopods need a terrarium setup with medium to high levels of humidity. As the original climate of the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods is subtropical, they can grow in warm weathered and hard wintery setups conveniently.
These iso odsmake ideal pets because of their fast breeding capabilities and a high tolerance for colder environments. Feeding the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods is not difficult either. These isopods do not have any kind of fixed diet. The Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods can be fed decayed wood, cuttlefish bone, and limestone.
Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods are fast breeders. They can produce large numbers under suitable environmental conditions. These stunning isopods have excellent breeding capabilities.
Basic Care For Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods
You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods.
You can use an enclosure setup with a medium level of humidity to house the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods.
It is essential to ensure the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods get sufficient calcium supply through supplements like cuttlefish bone.
Don’t keep the enclosure in direct light.
Make use of a substrate mix with vegetable peels and wood pieces to meet the needs of the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods.
Feeding
Trachelipus Trilobatus are a relatively easy species when it comes to feeding. The Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods can feed on staple diets like decaying wood and leaf litter. They are not fond of a certain type of food. These Isopods consume dried vegetables and vegetable peels as found in the natural environment.
Appearance And Behaviour
Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods thrive in medium to high humidity conditions.
They can be a suitable choice for beginners because they are easy to keep and even easier to breed isopods.
Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods are medium-sized isopods with a flat appearance.
These greyish-orange coloured isopods resemble the Porcellio Spatulatus Coros in appearance.
You can make an ample amount of hiding spots because they are highly preferred by the Trachelipus Trilobatus.
Trachelipus Triobatus Isopods Habitat
The Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods is a species recognized for its fast breeding capabilities. The Trachelipus Trilobatus can live beside other species and animals in an enclosure. They are not scavengers and can keep a vivarium setup clean.
Substrate Mix
These isopodswill need a substrate mix with wood pieces, leaf litter, vegetable peels, and more. Isopod collectors can add natural supplements of wood and leaves within the setup. Oyster shells are essential supplements for their growth. Add only pesticide free supplements inside the enclosure because they can pose a huge risk for the Trachelipus Trilobatus Isopods.
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Sunset Isopods (Troglodillo)
£40.00
Troglodillo Sunset Isopod is one unusual and exotic isopod that is native to Thailand. These beautiful and flat isopods have a yellow face that can sometimes be orange, too. The back colour of the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods can range from dark orange to dark brown. They are precious pets that were previously known as the Sunset Queen. The Troglodillo Sunset Isopods are a beginner-friendly option for first-time isopod collectors. These clean-up crew members thrive in medium-humidity environments.
A Glimpse
Origin: Thailand
Scientific Name: Troglodillo sp.
Difficulty: Low
Rarity: High
Temperature: 65 to 75℉
Size: 12 mm - 20 mm
Humidity: Medium To High
Favourable Foods: Decaying organic matter, rotting white wood, forest moss
An Overview
Troglodillo Sunset Isopods make interesting and beloved pets that are rare to find. These Troglodillo isopods are Thai species characterized by their unique yellow, orange, and dark brown colour combination.
These Thailand origin isopods have a somewhat flat appearance. These bright and elegant pets were previously called the Sunset Queen. These easy to keep and easy to breed isopods are medium body species that can grow from 12 mm to 20 mm in size.
Being a dark cave-like environment thrivers, the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods need a terrarium setup with medium to high level of humidity along with plenty of hiding spaces. Higher temperatures can stress the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods and even lead to death.
The Troglodillo Sunset Isopods can make ideal pets because of their amiable and photogenic appearance that resembles the colours of sunset. Feeding the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods is not difficult either. These detrivores can be fed decaying organic matter, calcium, and forest moss.
The Troglodillo Sunset Isopods are staple food eaters. They love eating decaying leaves of walnut and black berry. The stunning and rare species are available in various color combinations of yellow, orange, and dark brown.
Basic Care
You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods.
You can use an enclosure setup with 50 to 70 per cent humidity to house the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods.
Maintain the container’s temperature within 65 to 75℉.
It is essential to ensure medium to high humidity within the enclosure.
Don’t keep the enclosure in direct light.
Make use of lichen and forest moss to meet the Troglodillo Sunset Isopods.
You can give them a protein-based diet twice a week.
Feeding
Troglodillo Sunset Isopods are primarily detrivores. These isopods can be fed rotting white wood and decaying leaves. Troglodillo Sunset Isopods can feed on protein sources from small animals as well as fresh vegetables for hydration. They are fond of sweet fruits and dried flowers. These Troglodillo isopods consume oyster seashells and cuttlebone. They also feed on the excrement of bats and pieces of charcoal.
Appearance And Behaviour
Troglodillo Sunset Isopods thrive in medium to high humid environments.
They can be a suitable choice for beginners because they are easy to keep as well as easy to breed.
These Troglodillo isopods need leaf litter and flat bark cover in order to thrive in the best way.
These Troglodillo isopods have a somewhat flattened appearance.
They have yellow face that can also be orange sometimes.
The Troglodillo Sunset Isopods have dark orange to dark brown bodies.
Habitat
The Troglodillo Sunset Isopods is a species that adores staying active at night. The Trogodillo isopod owners can keep their bioactive terrarium setup moist with the help of rotting white wood and pieces of moss.
Substrate Mix
The Troglodillo Sunset Isopods will need a substrate mix with decaying leaves and rotten white wood. You can add forest moss and calcium carbonate inside the terrarium. A great substrate mix for Trogodillo Sunset Isopods can also include rocks and bone pieces.
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Venezillo Parvis Isopods
£20.00
Venezillo parvus is a small, burrowing isopod species that works well in bioactive setups where you need efficient decomposers that won't dominate the enclosure. Native to parts of Europe and the southern United States, these compact isopods spend much of their time below the substrate surface, processing organic matter and aerating the soil. They're not a flashy display species, but for keepers focused on functional bioactive systems, they're a solid choice.
A Glimpse
Origin: Europe, Southern United States
Scientific Name: Venezillo parvus
Maintenance required: Low to Medium
Average Size: 5-12 mm
Rarity: Medium
Lifespan: 1-2 years
Temperature: 20-26°C (68-79°F)
Ventilation: Low to Medium
Humidity: 70-85%
Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, organic debris
Supplements: Crushed eggshells, cuttlefish bone
Venezillo parvus: Introduction
Venezillo parvus are small isopods that excel at what cleanup crew species are supposed to do—break down organic waste, process decaying plant matter, and contribute to healthy substrate. They're not particularly showy, and you won't see them wandering about on the surface much. Instead, they spend most of their time burrowed into the substrate, quietly getting on with decomposition.
Their small size (adults max out around 12mm, with many staying smaller) makes them suitable for enclosures where larger isopods might be too conspicuous or could potentially be eaten by smaller reptile or amphibian inhabitants. They're also less likely to disturb plant roots or make a nuisance of themselves compared to larger, more active species.
This species requires higher humidity than many European Porcellio species, so they're better suited to tropical or humid bioactive setups rather than arid enclosures. They're not difficult to keep, but they do need consistent moisture levels—they won't tolerate drying out.
Venezillo parvus: Physical Traits and Characteristics
Small species, with adults typically reaching 5-12 mm in length
Oval body shape with the ability to conglobate (roll into a ball) when threatened
Natural colouration is typically grey-brown, though colour morphs exist
Available morphs include "Dalmatian" (spotted pattern) and "Blackpoint" varieties
Segmented body with seven pairs of legs
Relatively smooth exoskeleton compared to some textured species
Juveniles are tiny and can be difficult to spot in substrate
Colour Morphs
Venezillo parvus occurs in several colour forms:
Standard: Grey-brown, the typical wild colouration
Dalmatian: Spotted pattern that's popular among collectors
Blackpoint: Darker markings, another sought-after variety
These morphs breed true when kept separately but can produce varied offspring if different morphs are mixed.
Behaviour
Venezillo parvus are burrowers. Unlike surface-dwelling species that you'll see foraging on top of the substrate, these isopods prefer to stay underground, creating tunnel systems through the soil. This behaviour makes them excellent for substrate health—their tunnelling aerates the soil and distributes organic matter and beneficial microorganisms throughout the substrate layers.
Visibility: Don't expect to see these isopods regularly. They're secretive and spend most of their time hidden. If you want isopods you can observe, this isn't the species for you. If you want isopods that work effectively without being conspicuous, they're ideal.
Defence: When disturbed, they roll into a tight ball—a classic defensive behaviour shared with Armadillidium and some other genera.
Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal and fossorial (burrowing). Surface activity is limited, usually occurring at night or in very humid conditions.
Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with other invertebrates and won't bother tank inhabitants.
Diet
Venezillo parvus are detritivores that primarily process decaying organic matter within the substrate.
Primary foods:
Decaying hardwood and softwood
Decomposing leaf litter
Rotting plant material
Organic debris in the substrate
Supplementary foods:
Vegetables: carrot, courgette, cucumber, squash
Small amounts of fish flakes or dried shrimp for protein
Decaying moss and plant matter
Calcium: Provide calcium sources such as crushed eggshells, cuttlefish bone, or limestone powder. This supports healthy moulting, particularly important for breeding females.
Feeding approach: In an established bioactive setup, they'll largely sustain themselves on the organic matter present in the substrate. Supplementary feeding helps boost population growth and ensures they have adequate nutrition, but they're not demanding feeders. Place food on the substrate surface—they'll find it and drag pieces underground.
Venezillo parvus: Breeding
This species has a slower reproductive rate compared to prolific breeders like Porcellio scaber or powder blues. This is actually an advantage in many bioactive setups, as it means they won't overwhelm the enclosure or outcompete other cleanup crew species.
Breeding basics:
Females brood eggs in a marsupium and release miniature juveniles
Brood sizes are relatively small
Population growth is gradual and self-regulating
Colonies tend to stabilise at sustainable levels relative to available resources
Conditions for breeding:
Consistent high humidity (70-85%)
Stable temperatures
Adequate calcium availability
Sufficient substrate depth for burrowing
Ongoing food sources (decaying wood and leaf litter)
Colony management: Their slow breeding and self-regulating population means you're unlikely to face overcrowding issues. They naturally maintain appropriate numbers based on available resources.
Venezillo parvus: Habitat Setup
Enclosure: For a dedicated colony, a standard plastic container with limited ventilation works well—these isopods need high humidity, so excessive airflow works against you. In bioactive setups, they'll integrate into whatever enclosure you're using, provided humidity is adequate.
Substrate: This is important for a burrowing species. Provide a deep, moisture-retentive substrate that allows for tunnelling:
Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free)
Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention
Leaf litter worked into the substrate and layered on top
Decaying hardwood pieces buried in the substrate
Crushed limestone or calcium powder throughout
Avoid overly loose or sandy substrates that won't hold tunnels. The mix should be slightly compacted and able to maintain structure when burrowed through. Substrate depth should be at least 8-10 cm to accommodate their burrowing behaviour—shallow substrates limit their natural activity.
Humidity: High humidity is essential—aim for 70-85%. The substrate should be consistently moist but not waterlogged. Soggy, anaerobic conditions cause problems, but so does drying out. Mist regularly and ensure the substrate retains moisture throughout its depth, not just at the surface.
Ventilation: Limited ventilation helps maintain humidity. Small holes or minimal mesh is sufficient. Too much airflow will dry out the enclosure.
Décor:
Bark pieces (flat on the substrate surface provides hiding spots)
Leaf litter coverage
Decaying wood chunks partially buried
Moss (helps maintain humidity)
They don't need elaborate setups—substrate depth and moisture are more important than surface decoration.
Temperature: Room temperature (20-26°C) works well. Avoid extremes and sudden fluctuations.
Bioactive Integration
Venezillo parvus work well in humid bioactive setups for:
Dart frogs
Tree frogs
Small geckos (crested geckos, gargoyle geckos, etc.)
Humid-environment reptiles and amphibians
Their small size means they're less likely to be targeted as food by smaller inhabitants, and their burrowing behaviour keeps them out of sight. They process waste and decaying plant matter in the substrate, contributing to a functioning ecosystem without being intrusive.
Cohabitation: They coexist well with other cleanup crew species. Mixing them with springtails and other isopod species in a bioactive setup is common and works effectively. Their different niches (burrowing versus surface-dwelling) mean they don't directly compete.
Suitability
Venezillo parvus are suitable for keepers who want functional bioactive cleanup crew rather than display isopods.
Good choice for:
Humid bioactive setups
Keepers who prioritise substrate health over visible isopods
Enclosures where smaller isopods are preferred
Mixed cleanup crew setups with springtails and other species
Not ideal for:
Arid or low-humidity enclosures
Keepers wanting observable, surface-active isopods
Display colonies where visibility matters
Dry Porcellio-style setups
Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're not demanding, but they do require consistent humidity. If you can maintain appropriate moisture levels, they largely take care of themselves.
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Venezillo Parvus 'Dalmatian' Isopods
£25.00
Venezillo parvus "Dalmatian" is the spotted colour morph of this small, burrowing isopod species. The distinctive white body with dark spots gives them their name—resembling the coat pattern of a Dalmatian dog. While they share all the same care requirements and behaviour as standard Venezillo parvus, the patterned colouration makes them more visually appealing for keepers who want a bit more interest from their cleanup crew, even if these isopods spend most of their time hidden underground.
A Glimpse
Origin: Spain / Southwest Europe (captive bred colour morph)
Scientific Name: Venezillo parvus "Dalmatian"
Maintenance required: Low to Medium
Average Size: 5-12 mm
Rarity: Medium-High
Lifespan: 1-2 years
Temperature: 20-26°C (68-79°F)
Ventilation: Low to Medium
Humidity: 70-85%
Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, vegetables
Supplements: Crushed eggshells, cuttlefish bone
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian: Introduction
The Dalmatian morph of Venezillo parvus offers the same functional benefits as the standard form—efficient decomposition, soil aeration through burrowing, and unobtrusive cleanup crew behaviour—but with added visual interest from the spotted pattern. The white base colour with dark spots makes them easier to spot on those occasions when they do venture to the surface, and they're more interesting to look at when you dig through the substrate to check on your colony.
Like all Venezillo parvus, these are burrowing isopods that prefer life below the substrate surface. They're not display animals in any meaningful sense—if you want isopods you can watch wandering about, look elsewhere. But for keepers who appreciate a bit of aesthetic appeal even in their functional invertebrates, the Dalmatian pattern delivers more than the plain grey-brown standard form.
This species originates from southwest Europe, primarily Spain, and requires higher humidity than many European Porcellio species. They're suited to tropical and humid bioactive setups rather than arid enclosures.
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian: Physical Traits and Characteristics
Small species, with adults typically reaching 5-12 mm in length
White or pale cream base colour with irregular dark spots and patches
Spot pattern varies between individuals—some heavily spotted, others with lighter patterning
Oval body shape with the ability to conglobate (roll into a tight ball) when disturbed
Segmented body with seven pairs of legs
Smooth exoskeleton
Juveniles display the spotted pattern from birth, though it may intensify as they mature
Maintaining the Dalmatian Pattern
The Dalmatian colouration breeds true when Dalmatian individuals are bred together. To maintain the morph:
Keep Dalmatian colonies separate from other Venezillo parvus colour forms
Don't mix with standard grey or Blackpoint morphs if you want consistent offspring
If mixing occurs, subsequent generations will produce varied colouration
Some variation in spotting intensity is normal even within pure Dalmatian colonies—not every individual will be identical.
Behaviour
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian share the same behavioural traits as the standard form.
Burrowing: These isopods spend most of their time underground, creating tunnel systems through the substrate. This behaviour is beneficial for soil health—aerating the substrate and distributing organic matter throughout. It also means you won't see them much.
Visibility: Low. They surface occasionally, particularly at night or in very humid conditions, but they're not a species you'll observe regularly. The Dalmatian pattern at least makes them more noticeable on the rare occasions they do appear.
Defence: When threatened, they roll into a tight ball—classic pill bug behaviour.
Temperament: Peaceful and non-aggressive. They coexist well with other invertebrates and tank inhabitants without causing problems.
Activity: Primarily nocturnal. Most activity occurs underground regardless of time of day.
Diet
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian are detritivores that process decaying organic matter.
Primary foods:
Decaying wood (hardwood and softwood)
Decomposing leaf litter
Rotting plant material
Organic debris within the substrate
Supplementary foods:
Vegetables: cucumber, courgette, carrot, squash
Small amounts of fish flakes for protein
Decaying moss
Calcium: Provide crushed eggshells, cuttlefish bone, or oyster shell. Calcium supports healthy moulting and is particularly important for breeding females.
Feeding notes: In established bioactive setups, they'll sustain themselves largely on available organic matter. Supplementary feeding supports population growth but isn't constantly necessary. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24 hours to prevent mould—humid environments encourage rapid spoilage.
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian: Breeding
This species has a slower reproductive rate compared to prolific species like Porcellio scaber. For bioactive setups, this is often an advantage—they won't overrun the enclosure or outcompete other cleanup crew species.
Breeding basics:
Females carry eggs in a marsupium and release miniature juveniles
Brood sizes are small
Population growth is gradual
Colonies self-regulate based on available resources
Maintaining the morph: Keep Dalmatian colonies separate from other colour forms to ensure offspring retain the spotted pattern. Mixed breeding will produce varied results.
Conditions for breeding:
Consistent high humidity (70-85%)
Stable temperatures within preferred range
Adequate calcium for breeding females
Deep substrate for burrowing
Ongoing food sources (decaying wood and leaf litter)
Expectations: Don't expect rapid colony expansion. Their slow breeding is a characteristic of the species, not a husbandry problem. Patience is required when building up numbers.
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian: Habitat Setup
Enclosure: For a dedicated colony, use a plastic container with limited ventilation to maintain high humidity. In bioactive setups, they'll integrate into the existing enclosure provided humidity requirements are met.
Substrate: Deep, moisture-retentive substrate is essential for this burrowing species:
Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free)
Sphagnum peat moss for moisture retention
Leaf litter mixed throughout and layered on top
Decaying hardwood pieces buried in the substrate
Crushed limestone, eggshells, or oyster shell for calcium
Provide at least 8-10 cm substrate depth—shallow substrate restricts their natural burrowing behaviour. The substrate should hold structure when tunnelled through, not collapse.
Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-85%. The substrate should remain consistently moist throughout its depth, not just at the surface. Mist regularly. However, avoid waterlogged conditions—soggy, anaerobic substrate causes problems.
Ventilation: Limited. Small ventilation holes are sufficient. Excessive airflow dries out the enclosure and works against the humidity these isopods need.
Décor:
Flat bark pieces on the surface (provides cover)
Leaf litter
Partially buried wood chunks
Moss patches (helps maintain humidity)
Keep the setup simple—substrate depth and moisture matter more than elaborate decoration.
Temperature: Room temperature (20-26°C) is suitable. Avoid temperature extremes and sudden fluctuations.
Light: Avoid direct light on the enclosure. These isopods prefer darker conditions and will retreat deeper into substrate if lighting is too bright.
Bioactive Integration
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian work well in humid bioactive setups for:
Dart frogs
Tree frogs
Crested geckos, gargoyle geckos, and similar species
Other humidity-loving reptiles and amphibians
Their small size makes them less likely to be eaten by smaller inhabitants, and their burrowing keeps them largely out of sight and out of trouble. They process waste and decaying matter in the substrate without being conspicuous.
Mixed cleanup crews: They coexist well with springtails and other isopod species. Their underground niche means they don't directly compete with surface-dwelling cleanup crew, making mixed species setups effective.
Suitability
Venezillo parvus Dalmatian are suitable for keepers who want functional cleanup crew with a bit more visual interest than standard grey forms.
Good choice for:
Humid bioactive setups
Collectors who appreciate colour morphs
Enclosures where small, unobtrusive isopods are preferred
Keepers wanting efficient decomposers that won't dominate the setup
Not ideal for:
Arid or low-humidity enclosures
Keepers wanting visible, surface-active display isopods
Those expecting rapid colony growth
Beginners wanting a forgiving first species (consider Porcellio scaber instead)
Care level: Low to medium. Not difficult, but they require consistent humidity and won't tolerate drying out. Sensitive to environmental fluctuations compared to hardier species, but manageable for keepers who can maintain appropriate conditions.
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Camouflage Isopods (Troglodillo Rotondatus)
£100.00
Isopods could be a good option if you plan to keep exotic pets. One prominent one is Trogrodillo Camouflage isopods, which have been growing in popularity recently, mainly because of their camouflage abilities. Plus, they are low-maintenance; so many exotic pet enthusiasts choose them over other isopod species.
These tiny invertebrates make an interesting addition to any terrarium or bioactive setup. But before you bring them home, there are some things you should know.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: A Glimpse
Origin: China
Scientific Name: Trogrodillo Camouflagius
Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Size: Up to 1.5 cm
Rarity: Rare
Temperature: 20-26°C
Humidity: 60-80%
Favourite Food: Rotting leaves, wood, and dead plant material.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: An Overview
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods are part of a larger isopod family that includes various other species. These isopods are good for the environment because they break down organic material in ecosystems.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods are admired for their camouflage abilities, which allow them to blend into their environment easily. In other words, they can mimic their surroundings to become nearly invisible and protect themselves from predators.
Besides their beauty and survival tactics, these isopods play a vital role in bioactive terrariums. They help break down waste and dead plant material and clean the terrarium. Since you don't have to maintain the setup regularly, you can keep them with other pets like house reptiles or amphibians.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: Basic Care
Unlike other isopods, Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods require few care and maintenance requirements. Just follow the following steps, and you'll be good to go.
Maintaining the correct temperature and humidity inside the terrarium is key to keeping these isopods healthy. Since they are highly sensitive to their environment, you should monitor the conditions in the enclosure regularly using a thermometer and hygrometer.
It is important to ensure the temperature inside the enclosure remains between 20-26°C. The humidity level should be between 60 and 80%.
You can keep these isopods in a well-ventilated plastic or glass container. Just check that the container has enough space for them to move around in.
You should add a lid with small holes to prevent them from escaping and maintain the airflow.
To create a humidity gradient, you must keep one side of the enclosure moist. By doing so, you can regulate the moisture intake of the isopods as needed.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods are light-sensitive and prefer to live in darker environments. Therefore, you don't have to add UV lighting to their enclosure.
You should use the right substrate mix for their well-being. The substrate should also be damp, not soaked.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: Feeding
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods are natural detritivores for those unversed, which means they feed on decomposing organic matter. To keep your isopods happy and healthy, you must provide them with a balanced diet of different foods.
One of their favourite foods is rotting plant material, which is easily found in their natural habitat. So, please provide them with enough dead leaves and decomposing wood.
You can supplement their diet with small quantities of vegetables like cucumber, zucchini, or squash. You should also remove leftover food from their enclosure to avoid mould growth.
It is important to provide these isopods with a good source of protein, like fish flakes or freeze-dried shrimp, at least once a week. As for calcium supplements, you can give them cuttlebones or eggshells, as they help grow their exoskeletons.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: Appearance And Behaviour
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods are small, oval-shaped creatures with segmented, armor-like exoskeletons.
These isopods are available in various colours, including light brown and dark grey.
Due to their camouflage abilities, they can easily blend into their surroundings effectively. Some species may even have mottled patterns that mimic the appearance of tree bark or leaf litter.
These isopods are shy and docile by nature. Maybe this is why they are more active at night than during the day. They also prefer to live in dimly lit or dark environments.
A unique feature of these isopods is that they can roll into a ball when threatened. This behaviour is known as conglobation, and it is used as a defence mechanism.
Although Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods are solitary creatures, they prefer to live in small groups.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: Habitat
Talking about Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods' habitat, they tend to live on forest floors where they can easily hide under leaf litter, logs, and other decaying materials. In the wild, they usually live in warm and moist areas. This is why it is important to recreate these conditions in captivity.
When setting up a terrarium for these isopods, you should provide plenty of hiding places, such as pieces of cork bark, rocks, and leafy debris. These allow them to burrow and hide whenever they feel threatened, and they also provide them with a place to rest and sleep.
You can add live plants to the terrarium to maintain humidity levels. This will also help you provide additional organic matter for the isopods so they can consume it for days. However, it would help if you were careful when selecting plants for your isopods. It would help if you chose plants found in high-humidity environments that can withstand being nibbled on.
Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods: Substrate Mix
One important aspect of Trogrodillo Camouflage Isopods is the substrate mix. If you are determined to keep these creatures as pets, make sure to provide them with a well-balanced substrate.
Coconut coir is an organic material that helps retain moisture, making it the perfect base for your isopods. You can also add sphagnum moss to create a more natural environment and maintain the humidity level.
It is important to include plenty of decaying leaves so your isopods have a place to hide. When hungry, they can also feed on the decaying leaves. Some enthusiasts also add charcoal to the enclosure, as it helps improve air circulation and prevents bacterial buildup.
It is a good idea to add crushed cuttlebones or powdered eggshells to your tiny pets' diets so that they can enjoy some extra calcium for their exoskeleton development.
Last, you should maintain the substrate mix by keeping it moist. However, it would help if you didn't overdo it, as it can create problems for the isopods.
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Armadillidium Beieri Isopods
£20.00
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods are gaining popularity in the hobby due to their energetic nature and appearance. It doesn't take a lot of effort to have these isopods as pets. All you have to do is provide them with a safe environment and meet the care requirements.
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: A Glimpse
Origin: Greece
Scientific Name: Armadillidium Beieri
Difficulty Level: Medium
Size: 12-18 mm
Rarity: Rare
Temperature: 17 – 28°C
Humidity: 60 – 70%
Favourite Foods: Veggies, fruits, greens, decaying leaves, fish food, forest moss, rotting white wood, lichen, moulting of reptiles and invertebrates
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: An Overview
Armadillidium Beieri happens to be a unique isopod species that is commonly known as "pill bugs." An interesting thing about these isopods is that they roll into a tight ball whenever threatened. This particular species belongs to the Armadillidiidae family, known for its rolling defence mechanism that sets them apart from other isopods.
Many collectors and hobbyists prefer Armadillidium Beieri mainly because of its behaviour and striking appearance. This species originated in Greece, but it is also found in other regions of Europe, most commonly in mountainous areas where the weather is cool and humid.
If you are considering adding Armadillidium Beieri to your collection, you must understand the requirements for taking care. Unlike other isopods, Armadillidium Beieri is not difficult to care for but needs the right humidity and temperature to thrive.
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: Basic Care
Let us now talk about the basic care requirements of Armadillidium Beieri. Following the instructions is important if you want your isopods to be happy and healthy.
You need a well-ventilated enclosure to keep Armadillidium Beieri isopods. In this case, you can use a plastic or glass terrarium, especially those with lids. This will help retain moisture and allow proper airflow within the enclosure.
The ideal temperature for Armadillidium Beieri is between 17°C and 28°C. You can maintain the right temperature by keeping them away from extreme cold or heat. During winter, you can use heating pads or lamps to keep the enclosure warm.
As far as the humidity level is concerned, make sure it is between 60-70%. You can easily achieve this by misting the enclosure regularly. Alternatively, you can use a moisture-retaining substrate.
It is important to make sure that the enclosure is big enough for the isopods to roam and explore freely. It is recommended you choose 10 gallons for a small colony.
Like other isopods, Armadillidium Beieri enjoys hiding places in their enclosure, providing them with a sense of security and courage. Also, they need hiding spots to rest. In this case, you can use items like cork bark, leaf litter, or rocks to create a safe environment within the enclosure.
, Armadillidium Beieri needs proper ventilation, so look for one with adequate ventilation. This is crucial to preventing mould growth or excess dampness, which can hurt your isopods' health.
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: Feeding
Before you include them in your collection, you must know that Armadillidium Beieri isopods are natural detritivores. This means they feed on decaying organic matter like leaf litter, decaying wood, and plant matter.
The primary diet of Armadillidium Beieri isopods includes plant matter, leaf litter, and decaying wood. They prefer oak, beech, and magnolia leaves the most in leaf litter.
In addition to the primary diet, you should also provide them with fresh vegetables like zucchini, carrots, and cucumbers. As for their protein source, you can give them fish flakes, dried shrimp, or cuttlebone.
It is also crucial to provide them with sufficient calcium. A cuttlebone or a calcium-rich supplement would be fine for this.
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: Appearance And Behaviour
Armadillidium Beieri isopods have a segmented body with a hard, greyish exoskeleton that is slightly rounded. This helps them to roll into a ball when threatened.
They are usually grey or brown, but some of them may display subtle colour variations depending on their diet and environment.
These isopods can grow up to 12-18 mm when fully mature. This makes them a medium-sized species.
They are mainly active at night and enjoy creating burrows in the substrate. They tend to hide under objects to rest and protect themselves from enemies. Since isopods are social animals, they tend to thrive in groups.
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: Habitat
Armadillidium Beieri isopods are commonly found in forest areas and mountainous regions with cool and humid climates. They are native to Greece and tend to thrive in the areas with plenty of leaf litter, decaying wood, and other organic matter. This provides a perfect environment for these small creatures to grow and multiply.
Talking about their natural habitat is similar to a forest floor environment, where they can hide under rocks, logs, or leaves. To keep these isopods in a terrarium, it is important to create a similar habitat. This way, you can keep them happy and healthy in your home.
Another important thing to note is the humidity level. Unless you maintain the right humidity within the enclosure, they may not survive. In the wild, they live in a habitat with plenty of moisture, so make sure you do the same when keeping them in an enclosure.
Armadillidium Beieri Isopods: Substrate Mix
The substrate mix you choose for Armadillidium Beieri plays a crucial role in maintaining the environment for these isopods. A well-prepared substrate helps retain moisture and provides a safe place to thrive and maintain good overall health.
You can use a mix of coco fibre, organic topsoil, and sand for the base substrate. This mixture helps retain moisture and allows them to burrow in, extending their life while managing their health.
You can use leaf litter and spread it over the base substrate to provide an extra layer of moisture retention and shelter. Adding crushed eggshells or cuttlebone to the substrate is also a good idea, as it offers a natural source of calcium.
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Skeleton/Nebula Isopods (Armadillidium Klugii)
£22.50
Klugii Skeleton Isopods received their name because of the designs on their exoskeleton. They have a hard exoskeleton with a red outline. White patches are seen across the body of these isopods, similar to the vertebral column in humans. This gave them the nickname 'Skeleton' Isopods. These species of isopods are sometimes isolated to form a particular pattern in their body. Thus, they are also called 'nebula'.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: Key Points
Origin: Croatia
Scientific Name: Armadillidium Klugii
Difficulty Level: Easy
Size: 2.1 cm
Rarity: Common
Temperature: 18-26˚C
Humidity Level: Medium
Preferred Foods: Leaf litter, carrot, fish food, cuttlebone
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: An Overview
Klugii skeleton isopods are primarily found in a standard reddish color with white patches. They are considered a beginner series of isopods perfect for starting a collection. They are famous for their reproductive capacities. Their hard exoskeleton protects them from many dangerous predators.
Klugii skeleton isopods can feed on a variety of foods. As sources of fiber, they prefer leaf litter and decaying hardwood. Under vegetables, they feed on all sorts of dried vegetable waste. But carrots remain a possible variety to consume. Calcium supplements can be given in limestone, cuttlebone, fish food, etc.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: Basic Care
The following instructions can help provide the best care for Klugii Skeleton isopods.
As tropical isopods, Klugii Skeleton Isopods prefer moderate humidity in the enclosure.
Moisture retention is an essential practice to ensure the survival of these isopods.
A portion within the enclosure should retain moisture to maintain its optimal climatic conditions.
They are considered a beginner species ideal for vivariums.
Their reproductive abilities might be slow in the beginning.
Once they feel that they are in an optimal condition, they will breed faster.
Medium-level ventilation is only required for Klugii Skeleton Isopods.
Burrowing is a natural practice with these isopods. It is preferable for them to have some artificial hiding spots within the enclosure.
Preferred food items include- decayed wood, leaf litter, carrots, other vegetables, fish food, limestone, etc.
They can thrive easily in a room temperature of 18-26˚C.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: Feeding
Detritivores are species that can survive on a variety of food particles. Klugii Skeleton Isopods are also considered in this category. They feed on leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, fish food, etc.
Decaying wood and leaf litter constitute a significant part of their survival. The diet for Klugii Skeleton Isopods can be easily managed with many food items. Vegetable scraps from the kitchen can be utilized inside the enclosures. Experts insist on using dry items to restrict mold growth within the enclosures. Excess mold growth can be counterproductive for the isopods.
Klugii Skeleton isopods require protein and calcium-rich foods to supplement their growth. They tend to enjoy higher protein and calcium in their daily diets. Fiber sources, decayed hardwood, leaf litter, etc., are accessible to provide. Carrots are the best food among vegetables to supplement their growth. Other vegetables in their dried forms can be provided. Cuttlebones, eggshells, etc., are a significant part of their substrate mix and are good sources of protein and calcium.
Klugii Skeleton isopods also have the identity of a 'clean-up' crew. They tend to feed on many types of decaying plants and leaves, making them a good choice for vivariums and enclosures.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour
Klugii Skeleton isopods have hard exoskeletons.
As a commonly found species of isopods, they have dark exoskeleton and white patches.
They are primarily found in one colour- red or reddish brown.
Their growth is restricted to 2.1 Cm in length.
They are primarily found in Croatia.
Burrowing is a common practice noticed among these isopods.
Skeleton Isopods are commonly found in tropical conditions. Hence, the enclosures should have both dry and moist spaces.
They are considered prolific breeders among different species of isopods.
They prefer an optimal condition for their breeding.
Their breeding pattern can be slow initially.
Once an optimal climatic condition is provided, they are fast breeders.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: Habitat
Only an ideal habitat can ensure the proper survival and breeding of Klugii Skeleton isopods. Providing a perfect habitat for Klugii Skeleton isopods is fundamental for their survival. They are considered a beginner series of isopods for collectors to own. They are considered a primary purchase option for collectors. They also make relatively good displays among isopods. Maintaining the optimal condition inside the vivarium is crucial for their growth.
The ideal temperature for the survival of Klugii Skeleton isopods is between 18-26⁰C. Experts suggest the maintenance of these temperature levels to help the isopods in keeping their normal metabolism levels. Thermometers can be utilized to check the level of temperatures at regular intervals. But as these are isopods from tropical conditions, they can easily survive in room temperatures when compared to other isopods.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods are identified for their high breeding capacity. But they can only breed proficiently under ideal circumstances. Thus, keeping a perfect moisturization level inside the vivarium/enclosure is highly advised to keep them breeding. Providing hiding spots for these isopods can also be helpful in the attempts to breed them.
Skeleton isopods are medium-sized when compared to other isopods. Ventilation is a crucial aspect of their survival in the enclosure. They need constant air circulation, mainly in tropical conditions. Drilling holes in the enclosure is considered a standard practice to ensure enough air circulation.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods: Substrate Mix
A substrate mixture includes various types of nutrients to ensure the optimal growth of an organism. Different varieties of substances, both artificial and natural are used for the creation of an ideal substrate. For Klugii Skeleton isopods, the perfect substrate mixture is comparatively easy to produce. A key aspect of their survival is ventilation, which can be achieved through drilling air holes.
Care should be taken for Klugii Skeleton isopods, a they require a substrate mixture which facilitates both dry and moist areas within the enclosure. Decayed wood and leaf litter are easily acquirable materials for the substrate. Dried leaves comes with good amount of protein. The only risk factor is in whether the leaves are subjected to pesticides or not.
Klugii Skeleton Isopods prefer to stay within a reasonable distance. Burrowing is a common practice among these isopods. Hence, they like to stay within the enclosure, preferably in hiding spots built artificially by the collector. Thus, they are not climbers like many other isopods. Hence, providing a mixture of decaying wood, leaf litter, cuttlebone, egg shells, vegetable scraps, etc., can ensure their stay within the enclosure. A wet area in any portion of the enclosure can provide the ‘tropical’ environment these skeleton isopods seek for their survival.
PostPods
Red Edge Blonde Isopods (Cubaris sp.)
£35.00
I now have comprehensive information. Here's the rewritten product description:
Red Edge Blonde Isopods (Cubaris sp. 'Red Edge Blonde') are a stunning selectively bred colour morph of the popular Red Edge Cubaris. Where the standard Red Edge displays a blue-grey body with striking red skirting, the Blonde variant has been isolated and cultured for its beautiful colour mutation - resulting in a predominantly white to cream-coloured body with soft peachy-pink highlights along the edges, while retaining the characteristic dark eyes.
This morph is sometimes called "Red Skirt Blonde" or "White Phase" and represents one of the rarer variations within the Red Edge lineage. They combine the hardy, beginner-friendly nature of standard Red Edge isopods with an exceptionally attractive pale appearance that makes them stand out in any collection.
Red Edge isopods (in all their colour forms) are considered one of the best "gateway" Cubaris species - offering the exotic appeal of the Cubaris genus while being significantly more forgiving and prolific than demanding species like Rubber Duckies or Lemon Blues. If you're looking to move beyond common isopods into more exotic territory, or simply want a beautiful, manageable Cubaris to add to your collection, the Blonde variant is an excellent choice.
A Glimpse
Origin: Thailand (selectively bred colour morph)
Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Red Edge Blonde'
Alternative Names: Red Skirt Blonde, White Phase, Albino Red Edge
Difficulty Level: Easy to Medium
Size: Up to 1.5-2cm (approximately 17-20mm)
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F), optimal 22-26°C
Humidity: 65-80%
Rarity: High (uncommon colour morph)
An Overview
The Red Edge Cubaris originates from Thailand, where wild populations display the characteristic blue-grey body with vibrant red edges that give the species its name. The Blonde morph is a captive-bred colour mutation that has been selectively isolated and bred to produce consistently pale offspring.
What makes the Blonde variant distinctive:
White to cream base colouration (instead of blue-grey)
Soft peachy-pink highlights along segment edges (instead of bold red)
Dark eyes (distinguishing them from true albinos which have red eyes)
Same body shape and size as standard Red Edge
Some sellers list these as "Albino" Red Edge, though true albinos have red eyes due to lack of pigment. The Blonde/White Phase typically retains dark eyes, suggesting this is a different genetic variant - a leucistic or hypomelanistic form rather than true albinism. Regardless of the precise genetics, the result is a strikingly beautiful pale isopod.
Red Edge isopods in general are prized for being more robust than many Cubaris species. They tolerate less-than-ideal conditions better than sensitive species like Rubber Duckies, making them excellent for keepers developing their Cubaris husbandry skills. The Blonde morph shares this hardiness while offering a more unusual appearance.
They're notably more active than many Cubaris species, making them enjoyable to observe. Rather than hiding constantly, established colonies will often be visible during the day, especially when hiding spots are plentiful and they feel secure.
Colour Morphs and Variations
Several colour variants exist within the Red Edge lineage:
Standard Red Edge - Blue-grey body with bold red edges/skirts. The original wild-type colouration.
Blonde/White Phase - White to cream body with peachy-pink edges. Dark eyes. The variant described on this page.
Albino - Similar pale colouration but with red eyes (true albinism).
Orange Phase - Selectively bred for orange rather than red colouration.
If maintaining pure colour lines, keep different morphs separate. Breeding Blonde with standard Red Edge may produce offspring reverting to wild-type colouration, though genetics in these morphs aren't fully documented.
Basic Care
Red Edge Blonde isopods share care requirements with standard Red Edge - they're among the more forgiving Cubaris species while still requiring tropical conditions.
Temperature should be maintained between 21-28°C (70-82°F), with an optimal range of 22-26°C (72-79°F). They can tolerate brief temperature fluctuations but prolonged extremes (below 18°C or above 30°C) can be lethal.
Humidity should be kept at 65-80%. Like most Cubaris, they prefer humid conditions with a moisture gradient:
Approximately half the enclosure kept moist with sphagnum moss
The remainder kept drier with just leaf litter coverage
Mist the same areas consistently - don't shift the moisture gradient around
Good ventilation is important despite the high humidity to prevent mould and stagnation. Balance is key - enough airflow to keep conditions fresh without drying things out too quickly.
Enclosure type: Plastic containers with ventilation work well for breeding. Approximately 11 litres (6 quart) is suitable for a starter colony. Provide a secure lid as they can climb enclosure walls.
They prefer to hide rather than burrow, so substrate depth of 2.5-7cm (1-3 inches) with plenty of cork bark, egg crates, and other hiding spots is ideal. Moss thickness of 5-7cm creates excellent hiding opportunities.
Feeding
Red Edge Blonde isopods are enthusiastic eaters with appetites larger than their size might suggest. They're not picky and will accept a wide variety of foods.
Primary foods (should always be available):
Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, magnolia)
Rotting white wood
Moss (both food and habitat)
Decaying plant matter
Supplementary foods (offered 1-2 times weekly):
Vegetables - carrots, squash, potatoes
Mushrooms and fungi
Fish flakes or pellets
Freeze-dried shrimp
Commercial isopod foods
Protein supplementation (1-2 times weekly):
Dried shrimp
Fish food
Meat scraps
Calcium supplementation (always available):
Cuttlebone
Bat guano (also provides nutrients)
Crushed eggshells
Oyster shell
Limestone
Superfood supplements: Commercial isopod superfoods containing balanced nutrients can be offered 1-2 times monthly.
Important: Despite their large appetites, avoid overfeeding - excess food attracts pests and causes hygiene issues. Remove uneaten fresh food before it spoils. Maintain enclosure cleanliness by removing old food and moults regularly.
Appearance and Behaviour
Red Edge Blonde isopods reach approximately 1.5-2cm (17-20mm) as adults - a moderate size for Cubaris species.
Colouration:
White to cream base colour across the body
Soft peachy-pink highlights along segment edges (the "red edge" in muted tones)
Some individuals may show more pink than others
Dark eyes (not red like true albinos)
Overall appearance somewhat resembles albino but with pigmented eyes
Their exoskeleton is well-developed and provides good protection. Like other isopods, they can roll into a defensive ball when threatened.
Behaviourally, Red Edge Blonde isopods are:
More active than many Cubaris species
Visible during the day when comfortable (crepuscular to nocturnal primarily)
Quick to scurry to hiding spots when disturbed
Hardy and resilient once established
Prolific breeders compared to sensitive Cubaris species
They're sometimes described as excellent "desk pets" due to their activity levels and willingness to be visible. In terrariums with plenty of hiding spots, established colonies are regularly observable.
They work well alongside springtails - the combination creates an effective cleanup crew for bioactive setups. Springtails handle smaller debris and mould while isopods process larger organic matter.
Habitat
Creating an appropriate habitat focuses on humidity, hiding spots, and cleanliness.
Enclosure options:
Plastic containers with ventilation (approximately 11 litres/6 quart for starter colonies)
Glass terrariums with appropriate humidity management
Secure lids essential - they can climb walls
Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F), optimal 22-26°C.
Humidity: 65-80% with moisture gradient.
Ventilation: Moderate. Holes on multiple sides covered with mesh to prevent escape while allowing airflow.
Substrate depth: 2.5-7cm (1-3 inches).
Moss layer: 5-7cm thickness provides hiding opportunities.
Moisture gradient setup:
Approximately 50% of enclosure kept moist with sphagnum moss
Remaining 50% kept dry with leaf litter
Always mist the same area to maintain consistent gradient
Hides: Essential - provide plenty of hiding spots throughout:
Cork bark pieces
Egg crates
Coconut halves
Lotus pods
Leaf litter coverage
Important considerations:
They prefer hiding to burrowing
Plenty of hides allows them to form colonies and feel secure
Secure mesh over ventilation holes as they climb
Clean enclosure regularly - remove uneaten food and moults
When population grows large, consider rehoming some to a second enclosure
Substrate Mix
The substrate should retain appropriate moisture while providing nutrition.
Base substrate options:
Coconut coir
Peat moss
Commercial bioactive substrate
Leaf humus
Essential additions:
Hardwood leaf litter (generous layer on top)
White rotten wood pieces
Charcoal pieces
Sphagnum moss (for moist zone)
Cork bark pieces throughout
Calcium supplementation:
Cuttlebone scattered throughout
Limestone pieces
Crushed oyster shell mixed in substrate
Optional additions:
Perlite (for drainage and nutrition)
Cork granules
Live mosses (food and habitat)
Small ferns or ground cover plants (for visual appeal and additional hides)
Layer structure:
Base: 2.5-7cm substrate with good moisture retention
Throughout: Decaying wood, cork bark, calcium sources
Top: Generous leaf litter layer
Moist zone: Thick sphagnum moss (5-7cm) covering approximately half the enclosure
Maintain the moisture gradient consistently - always mist the same designated wet area. The dry side should remain genuinely dry, providing the isopods options to self-regulate.
Breeding
Red Edge isopods are considered prolific breeders for a Cubaris species, and the Blonde morph shares this characteristic.
Breeding rate: Moderate to good for Cubaris. Once established, they breed reliably with consistent small to moderate broods. More prolific than demanding species like Rubber Duckies but not as explosive as Porcellio or Armadillidium.
Optimal breeding conditions:
Temperature at 22-26°C (72-79°F)
Humidity at 70-80%
Consistent moisture gradient
Regular protein and calcium supplementation
Plenty of hiding spots for females and mancae
Minimal disturbance
Establishment period: They typically settle into new environments without the extended delays seen in more sensitive Cubaris species. However, some settling time is normal - give them a few weeks to acclimate before expecting significant breeding activity.
Population management: Monitor colony growth. When the enclosure becomes crowded, rehome some individuals to a second container. Overcrowding can lead to stress and reduced breeding success.
Care for breeding success:
Maintain consistent conditions (these isopods don't tolerate fluctuations well despite being "forgiving")
Provide adequate protein for reproductive health
Ensure calcium availability for developing offspring
Keep multiple generations together - they don't harm each other
Red Edge Blonde isopods are considered a great stepping stone for keepers who want to breed Cubaris without the challenges of ultra-sensitive species. Success with these will build skills applicable to more demanding varieties.
PostPods
Cubaris Cherry Blossom Isopods
£110.00
Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom" is one of the most visually stunning isopods in the hobby. Named for its soft pink and white colouration reminiscent of cherry blossom petals, this species stands out immediately in any collection. If you're looking for an isopod that genuinely makes people stop and say "wait, that's an isopod?" - this is the one.
Cherry Blossom isopods are a selectively bred colour morph isolated from Cubaris sp. "Red Pak Chong" stock, with the original line developed in Japan. Interestingly, while the Japanese breeders named them "Cherry Blossom," American hobbyists often call them "Sakura" - which is just the Japanese word for cherry blossom. Full circle.
These aren't beginner isopods. They're slow breeders, relatively sensitive to environmental fluctuations, and command a premium price. But for keepers who've cut their teeth on hardier species and want something genuinely special, Cherry Blossom isopods are absolutely worth the investment.
A Glimpse
Origin: Captive bred (selectively bred morph of Red Pak Chong lineage)
Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom"
Difficulty Level: Medium
Size: Up to 15mm
Temperature: 22-26°C
Humidity: 70-80%
Rarity: Rare
An Overview
Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom" emerged from selective breeding of the Red Pak Chong lineage - itself originating from the limestone caves and karst formations of Thailand's Pak Chong district. The original Cherry Blossom line was isolated in Japan, where breeders selected for the distinctive pastel pink colouration that sets this morph apart.
What makes Cherry Blossom so desirable is the soft, almost ethereal pink tone across their bodies, complemented by paler segmentation. The effect genuinely does evoke cherry blossom petals, and it's unlike anything else in the isopod hobby. They maintain this colouration throughout their lives, making them a permanent centrepiece species rather than one that fades as they mature.
Unlike some of the more sedentary Cubaris species, Cherry Blossoms are surprisingly active and curious. They'll explore their enclosure, and you'll often find some hanging about in the open rather than permanently burrowed away. This makes them more rewarding to observe than many other high-end Cubaris varieties.
Like their Red Pak Chong relatives, Cherry Blossoms share the genetic heritage of cave-dwelling ancestors. This means they appreciate high humidity, stable conditions, and plenty of calcium in their diet to support healthy exoskeleton development.
Basic Care
These are tropical isopods that require consistent warmth and humidity. Temperature fluctuations and dry conditions can stress them quickly.
They're burrowers by nature, so provide deep substrate (at least 7-10cm) to allow for natural behaviour.
While they need high humidity, good ventilation remains important. Stagnant, overly wet conditions invite mould and can harm the colony. Aim for a balance - moist but not waterlogged, with adequate airflow.
Cherry Blossoms are shy creatures. Provide plenty of hiding spots including cork bark, moss, and thick leaf litter. They particularly seem to enjoy hiding inside acorn caps if you can source them.
Minimise disturbance. These aren't isopods you want to be constantly checking on or moving around. Set up the enclosure properly from the start and let them settle.
Start with a reasonable group size (10+ individuals) to ensure genetic diversity and increase breeding success. Small starter groups can struggle to establish.
Expect slow reproduction. This isn't Porcellio pruinosus - broods are smaller and less frequent. Patience is required.
Feeding
Cherry Blossom isopods are detritivores with the typical Cubaris diet, though they benefit from slightly higher protein than some other species.
Primary food sources:
Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia) - this should form the bulk of their diet
Rotting white wood
Sphagnum moss
Supplementary foods:
Fresh vegetables - particularly those high in carotenoids (pumpkin, carrot, sweet potato, corn, sweet peppers) which may help maintain colouration
Fish flakes or dried shrimp (for protein, 2-3 times weekly)
Soft fruits occasionally
Lichen if available
Calcium is essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide constant access to:
Cuttlefish bone
Limestone chunks
Crushed eggshells
Oyster shell
Calcium powder
Given their limestone cave origins, Cherry Blossoms have a higher calcium requirement than many species. Don't skimp on this.
Remove uneaten fresh food within 24-48 hours to prevent mould.
Appearance and Behaviour
The defining feature of Cherry Blossom isopods is their distinctive pastel pink colouration, often with paler or cream-coloured segmentation that creates a delicate, blossom-like appearance. Adults reach approximately 15mm at maturity.
They have the typical rounded, conglobating (ball-rolling) body shape characteristic of the Cubaris genus. When threatened, they'll curl into a tight ball - though well-established colonies in a settled enclosure rarely feel the need to do this.
Behaviourally, Cherry Blossoms are more active than many Cubaris species. While they still spend plenty of time burrowed or hidden, you'll frequently see individuals exploring, especially during evening and nighttime hours. They're curious isopods that seem to enjoy investigating their environment.
They're also faster movers than some of the more sedentary Cubaris varieties. This adds energy and interest to watching them but also means you need to be careful when opening the enclosure - they can make a dash for it if given the opportunity.
Like all Cubaris, they're social and should be kept in groups. They coexist peacefully and there's no aggression to worry about.
Habitat
A secure enclosure is essential. While Cherry Blossoms aren't strong climbers on smooth surfaces, use a well-fitted lid to maintain humidity and prevent escapes.
Size-wise, start with at least a 6-quart container for a small colony. Larger is better for established groups and allows for better humidity gradients.
Temperature should be maintained at 22-26°C. Avoid temperatures below 18°C or above 28°C. Consistent warmth is more important than hitting a specific number.
Humidity needs to be high - around 70-80%. The substrate should remain moist (not wet) at all times. One corner can be kept slightly drier to create a gradient.
Ventilation is still important despite the high humidity requirement. Multiple small ventilation holes with fine mesh work well. Avoid completely sealed enclosures.
Provide lots of hiding opportunities: cork bark flats, moss patches, thick leaf litter, and similar. The more secure they feel, the better they'll do.
Lighting isn't critical. Ambient room light is fine. They're largely nocturnal but will come out during the day in a well-established colony.
Substrate Mix
Getting the substrate right is crucial for Cubaris species, and Cherry Blossoms are no exception. They need a moisture-retentive mix that mimics their natural environment while providing nutrition and burrowing opportunities.
A good substrate mix consists of:
40% organic potting soil (pesticide-free)
30% coconut coir
20% sphagnum moss
10% leaf litter (mixed into substrate, with more layered on top)
To this base, add:
Rotting white wood pieces
Limestone chunks or crusite
Additional leaf litter on the surface (oak, beech, magnolia)
Patches of live or dried moss
Substrate depth should be at least 7-10cm to accommodate their burrowing behaviour. These isopods dig, and they need the space to do so comfortably.
Maintain a moisture gradient: one end of the enclosure slightly damper than the other. This allows the isopods to self-regulate and find their preferred conditions. Mist regularly but avoid waterlogging - the substrate should be moist to the touch but not squelching wet.
The limestone chunks serve double duty: they help buffer the substrate pH and provide an accessible calcium source that the isopods will graze on.