Lobella sp. "Thai Red" springtails are a relatively recent addition to the hobby, discovered in Thailand around 2021. Their vivid red colouration makes them among the most visually striking springtails available—a far cry from the typical white or grey cultures most keepers are familiar with. They're larger than common springtails, don't jump, and move slowly enough to actually observe, which adds to their appeal as display animals rather than just invisible cleanup crew.
A Glimpse
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Origin: Thailand (captive-bred)
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Scientific Name: Lobella sp. "Thai Red"
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Common Names: Thai Red Springtails, Red Springtails
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Maintenance required: Easy to moderate
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Average Size: 1-5mm (larger than typical springtails)
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Rarity: Rare / Very rare
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Temperature: 24-28°C (75-82°F) optimal; will survive at room temperature
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Humidity: 85-95% (high)
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Substrate: Soil-based (not charcoal or clay)
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Favorite food: Fish flakes, brewer's yeast, decaying organic matter
Thai Red Springtails: Introduction
Springtails are tiny hexapods (six-legged arthropods closely related to insects) that serve as nature's cleanup crew. They consume decaying organic matter, mould, fungi, and bacteria, making them valuable additions to bioactive terrariums and vivariums. Most keeper experience is with common white springtails (Folsomia candida) cultured on charcoal—functional but not particularly exciting to look at.
Thai Red springtails changed this equation. Discovered in the humid forests of Thailand following the Rubber Ducky isopod craze of 2017, they were introduced to the wider hobby around 2021. Their candy-red colouration, larger size, and calm demeanour made them instant favourites among collectors who wanted springtails they could actually see and appreciate.
They belong to the family Lobellidae, characterised by smaller-bodied springtails that thrive in humid, decomposing environments. Unlike many springtails, Thai Reds don't jump—they crawl slowly, making them easy to observe and reducing escape risk during maintenance.
Thai Red Springtails: Physical Traits and Characteristics
- Adults reach 1-5mm—substantially larger than common white springtails
- Bright red to reddish-pink colouration (described as "candy red")
- Stout, chunky body shape
- Segmented body typical of springtails
- No jumping behaviour (major advantage for handling)
- Slow, deliberate movement
- Visible to the naked eye once mature
The red colouration is their defining feature. Against dark substrate, they're immediately visible—a stark contrast to white springtails that disappear against most backgrounds. Their size and slow movement make them genuinely watchable rather than just functional.
Behaviour
Thai Red springtails display distinctive behaviour patterns.
Movement: Slow crawlers that don't jump. This is a significant advantage—they won't ping out of the enclosure when you open it, and they're easy to observe moving about.
Climbing: Good climbers that will follow condensation trails. Secure lids are necessary as they can and will climb out through any available gaps.
Activity: Active throughout the day. They spend considerable time burrowed in substrate but will swarm food when feeding, becoming highly visible during these periods.
Burrowing: Strong digging instinct—they need deep, organic substrate to burrow into. This is a critical care requirement.
Social behaviour: Gregarious. They do well in groups and colony-keeping is straightforward once conditions are right.
Feeding behaviour: Congregate around food sources. You'll see them swarm fish flakes or yeast when offered, which is one of the better opportunities to observe them.
Diet
Thai Red springtails are detritivores with broad appetites.
Primary foods:
- Decaying organic matter
- Mould and fungi (they actively consume these)
- Bacteria and microbial growth
- Leaf litter
- Decaying wood
Supplementary foods:
- Tropical fish flakes (their favourite supplementary food)
- Brewer's yeast (sprinkle every 2-3 days in small amounts)
- Vegetables and fruit scraps
- Commercial springtail foods
Feeding notes:
- They have substantial appetites for their size
- Increase feeding during breeding periods
- Avoid overfeeding yeast—too much can reduce oxygen in the enclosure
- Don't clean off mould or fungus from the enclosure; they'll eat it
- Remove only uneaten fresh foods that are rotting excessively
Protein: Higher protein supplementation supports faster colony growth and reproduction. Fish flakes provide this effectively.
Thai Red Springtails: Breeding
Thai Red springtails breed readily under appropriate conditions.
Breeding characteristics:
- Prolific reproducers when established
- Rapid population growth under optimal conditions
- Juveniles develop to adults, gaining full colouration at maturity
- Colony establishment takes a few weeks
Optimal conditions for breeding:
- Consistent warmth (24-28°C)
- High humidity (85-95%)
- Deep organic substrate
- Abundant food supply
- Undisturbed environment
Establishment period: Give them 2-3 weeks to acclimatise to a new enclosure before expecting significant activity. After 3-5 weeks, they should be fully active and breeding. Population growth accelerates once established.
Reproduction rate: Sources vary—some describe them as prolific, others note slower reproduction compared to common white springtails. Reality is probably that they breed well under optimal tropical conditions but more slowly if temperatures or humidity are suboptimal. Warmer is better for reproduction speed.
Thai Red Springtails: Habitat Setup
Substrate type is the most critical factor for success with this species.
Enclosure: Any container with a secure lid works. Glass or plastic terrariums, plastic storage containers, or dedicated springtail cultures. Lids must fit securely—these springtails will find gaps and climb out via condensation trails.
Ventilation: Minimal to none. Unlike isopods, springtails don't need ventilation holes—in fact, holes provide escape routes. Opening the enclosure periodically for feeding and misting provides sufficient air exchange. Keep it sealed otherwise.
Substrate (CRITICAL): Thai Red springtails MUST have deep, organic, soil-based substrate. This is non-negotiable.
Suitable substrates:
- Organic topsoil (pesticide-free)
- Sphagnum peat moss
- Forest humus
- Earthworm castings
- Commercial bioactive substrates
Unsuitable substrates:
- Charcoal (commonly used for white springtails—will NOT work for Thai Reds)
- Clay-based substrates
- Calcium-bearing clay
They have a strong burrowing instinct and need several centimetres of substrate depth to dig into. Shallow substrate or non-burrowing-friendly materials will result in colony failure.
Additions:
- Leaf litter
- Decaying wood pieces
- Bark
Humidity: 85-95%—very high. The substrate should be consistently moist but not waterlogged.
- Mist regularly with dechlorinated water
- Maintain damp (not wet) substrate
- High humidity is their primary requirement
- Use a hygrometer to monitor levels
Temperature: 24-28°C (75-82°F) optimal for rapid breeding and activity. They'll survive at UK room temperature (around 20°C) but will develop more slowly. Warmer is better—these are tropical animals.
Some sources suggest slightly different ranges (74-76°F, 75-85°F, 65-75°F), but the consensus is warm tropical conditions. Avoid cold temperatures.
Light: No special requirements. Normal room lighting is fine. They're not particularly light-sensitive.
Bioactive Use
Thai Red springtails excel as bioactive cleanup crew members.
Strengths:
- Effective mould and fungus control (they actively consume these)
- Break down decaying organic matter
- Process waste products
- Nutrient cycling in substrate
- Visible—you can actually see them working
- Don't jump out during enclosure maintenance
- Attractive addition to display setups
Suitable applications:
- Tropical terrariums and vivariums
- Dart frog enclosures (also serve as food source)
- Humid reptile setups
- Isopod enclosures (work alongside isopods)
- Any high-humidity bioactive system
As feeders: Their larger size and bright colour make them suitable food for small reptiles and amphibians, particularly dart frogs. They're more visible than white springtails, making it easier for predators to locate them.
Companion species: Work well alongside isopods. The combination of isopods for larger organic matter and springtails for mould/fungus control creates effective bioactive systems. Introduce springtails first and allow them to establish (2-3 weeks) before adding isopods or other inhabitants.
Caution: Don't house with larger insects that might prey on springtails. Most invertebrates will eat springtails if given the opportunity.
Mite Prevention
Thai Red springtails can be susceptible to mite infestations.
Identification: Mites are small, round bugs that can harm springtails. They look different from springtails—rounder, often moving more quickly.
Prevention:
- Source cultures from reputable suppliers
- Quarantine new cultures before mixing with established colonies
- Maintain clean conditions
- Don't overfeed (excess food attracts mites)
Treatment: If mites appear, remove them manually. Some keepers place paper towels treated with mite medicine in enclosure corners (away from springtails). Severe infestations may require starting fresh with a new culture.
Suitability
Thai Red springtails suit keepers wanting visible, attractive springtails.
Good choice for:
- Display bioactive setups where aesthetics matter
- Tropical/humid terrariums and vivariums
- Dart frog keepers (food source + cleanup)
- Collectors wanting colourful microfauna
- Those frustrated with invisible white springtails
- First-time springtail keepers (with appropriate setup)
- Children and families (interesting to observe, harmless, low maintenance)
Less suited for:
- Arid or low-humidity setups
- Keepers wanting to use charcoal substrate
- Very cold environments without supplemental heating
- Those wanting the fastest-breeding springtails (white springtails may be faster)
Care level: Easy to moderate. They're straightforward once you understand their requirements—the main pitfall is using inappropriate substrate. Provide warm, humid conditions with deep organic soil, feed regularly, and they'll thrive. The original page says "very easy" which is fair if you set up correctly; failure typically comes from substrate mistakes rather than complex care requirements.
Value: At £25 for a culture (10 count), with larger quantities at £45 (20) and £100 (50), Thai Reds are more expensive than common white springtails. This reflects their rarity, recent introduction to the hobby, and visual appeal. For collectors and display-focused keepers, the premium is justified. For purely functional bioactive cleanup, cheaper white springtails work fine—but they won't look nearly as interesting.
What to expect: Expect bright red springtails that are actually visible against substrate—a genuine improvement over trying to spot white springtails. Expect slow, deliberate movement rather than the manic jumping of some springtail species. Expect them to spend considerable time burrowed but emerge dramatically to swarm food during feeding. Expect establishment to take a few weeks before the colony becomes fully active. Expect that substrate choice matters—get this wrong and the colony will fail regardless of other care. For keepers who want their springtail cleanup crew to be part of the display rather than invisible background workers, Thai Reds deliver something genuinely different.
