Cubaris Isopods (54)

Cubaris sp. "White Ducky" is a colour morph of the famous Rubber Ducky isopod, displaying striking white and grey-black colouration instead of the typical yellow. They retain the characteristic "duck face" appearance that made Rubber Duckies so popular, but with a monochrome palette that many collectors find equally—if not more—appealing. Like all Rubber Ducky variants, they're a Cubaris species from Thailand that requires careful attention to humidity and environmental stability. These are not beginner isopods, and their price reflects both their rarity and the care required to maintain them successfully. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (captive bred colour morph) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "White Ducky" Maintenance required: High Average Size: 1.8-2.1 cm Rarity: High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 20-26°C (68-79°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-85% Favorite food: Decaying white-rot wood, leaf litter, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, protein sources White Ducky Isopods: Introduction White Ducky isopods are a colour variant of the Rubber Ducky isopod that has become highly sought after by collectors. Where standard Rubber Duckies display the familiar yellow and grey colouration that earned them their name, White Duckies show bright white or silver-white head and tail regions contrasting with a darker grey to black central body. Many individuals also display caramel or orange arrow-shaped markings pointing toward the head, adding visual interest to the monochrome pattern. They share the same care requirements as standard Rubber Duckies—which is to say they're demanding. Originating from the humid limestone cave environments of Thailand, they need consistent high humidity, stable temperatures, and calcium-rich substrate. Environmental fluctuations that hardier species would shrug off can stress White Duckies and impact their health and breeding. This is a species for experienced keepers who have successfully maintained other Cubaris species and understand the specific requirements of cave-dwelling isopods. If you're new to isopods, start with something hardier and work your way up. If you've got the experience and want something genuinely impressive for your collection, White Duckies deliver on visual impact. White Ducky Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.8-2.1 cm in length—slightly larger than some other Cubaris species Bright white or silver-white colouration on the head (cephalon) and tail sections Dark grey to black colouration on the central body segments Many individuals display caramel or orange arrow-shaped markings pointing toward the head Classic "duck face" profile characteristic of Rubber Ducky variants—rounded head shape with prominent eyes Robust, rounded body shape Ability to conglobate (roll into a tight ball) when threatened Pattern and colour intensity can vary between individuals Behaviour White Ducky isopods share the typical Cubaris temperament but are noted for being somewhat more visible than some other cave-dwelling species once established. Settling in: Like all Rubber Ducky variants, they need time to establish in a new enclosure. Expect them to hide initially while they assess their environment. Avoid disturbing them during this period—patience is essential. Activity levels: Once comfortable, they're reportedly more outgoing than standard Rubber Duckies. You may see them foraging and exploring, particularly in the evenings or at night. However, don't expect constant visibility—they'll still spend significant time hidden. Burrowing: They're semi-fossorial, meaning they burrow into substrate. This is natural behaviour and should be accommodated with adequate substrate depth. Defence: When threatened, they roll into a tight ball. Their contrasting colouration makes this particularly striking to observe. Social behaviour: They do well in groups and display some social interactions. Keeping them in appropriate colony sizes supports natural behaviour. Diet White Ducky isopods are detritivores with specific nutritional needs that should be met to maintain health and colouration. Primary foods: White-rotted decaying hardwood (essential—this should be a significant component of their diet and habitat) Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: sweet potato, carrot, courgette, butternut squash Small amounts of fruit occasionally Forest moss and lichens (if available) Protein: Important for this species—provide protein sources once or twice weekly: Dried shrimp or freeze-dried shrimp Fish flakes or pellets Dried bloodworms Freeze-dried insects Calcium: Critical for Cubaris species from limestone environments. Provide multiple calcium sources: Cuttlefish bone (essential) Crushed limestone Crushed oyster shell Powdered eggshells Their natural habitat includes calcium-rich limestone, so don't skimp on calcium supplementation. It supports healthy moulting, exoskeleton development, and may contribute to maintaining their colouration. White Ducky Isopods: Breeding White Ducky isopods breed slowly compared to hardier species, and establishing a breeding colony requires patience. Breeding basics: Females carry eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles Brood sizes are small Breeding rate is slow—significantly slower than Porcellio or Armadillidium species Maturity takes approximately 6 months Conditions for breeding: Stable, consistent environmental conditions (fluctuations stress them) High humidity maintained at 70-85% Temperature stability within 20-26°C range Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein in the diet Minimal disturbance Expectations: Don't expect rapid colony growth. These are slow-breeding isopods that produce small broods. Population building takes time and patience. The price of these isopods reflects this reality—they can't be mass-produced quickly. Challenges: Breeding failures often result from environmental instability, inadequate humidity, insufficient calcium, or excessive disturbance. Consistency is more important than perfection—stable conditions produce better results than fluctuating "ideal" conditions. White Ducky Isopods: Habitat Setup Getting the enclosure right is crucial for this species. They're not forgiving of husbandry mistakes. Enclosure: A secure plastic container or glass terrarium with limited ventilation. A minimum of 15-20 litres for a starter colony, with larger enclosures (25+ litres) preferable as they allow for better environmental stability and support colony growth. Glass terrariums work well for display. Substrate: This is critical for Cubaris species. Use a deep, moisture-retentive, calcium-rich substrate: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed in for moisture retention Crushed limestone or calcium powder generously incorporated (10% or more of the mix) White-rotted hardwood pieces buried throughout Decomposing leaf litter worked into the substrate Aged cork bark pieces Substrate depth should be at least 6-8 cm (2.5-3 inches) minimum to accommodate their semi-fossorial behaviour and maintain stable humidity at lower levels. Deeper is better. Humidity: High humidity is essential—aim for 70-85%. The substrate should remain consistently moist but not waterlogged. Set up a moisture gradient with approximately 70% of the enclosure kept humid and 30% slightly drier. Use sphagnum moss patches to maintain humidity in the moist zones. Mist regularly to maintain moisture levels. These isopods are sensitive to humidity fluctuations. Consistent moisture is more important than hitting exact numbers—stability matters most. Ventilation: Limited ventilation. Too much airflow will dry out the enclosure and make humidity maintenance difficult. Small ventilation holes or minimal mesh is sufficient. The goal is preventing stagnation while retaining humidity. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes (essential hiding spots) White-rotted hardwood pieces Generous sphagnum moss coverage Leaf litter on the surface Additional bark and wood pieces for varied microhabitats Provide plenty of hiding options. Multiple retreat areas reduce stress and support natural behaviour. Temperature: Maintain stable temperatures between 20-26°C. Avoid fluctuations—sudden temperature changes stress these isopods. Room temperature in most UK homes works, but avoid placing enclosures near windows, radiators, or other sources of temperature variation. Suitability White Ducky isopods are suitable only for experienced keepers prepared to meet their demanding requirements. Good choice for: Experienced Cubaris keepers wanting a premium species Collectors who value rarity and visual impact Keepers who can maintain stable, consistent conditions Those patient enough for slow breeding Not suitable for: Beginners (start with hardier species first) Keepers wanting rapid colony growth Those unable to maintain consistent high humidity Impatient hobbyists Bioactive cleanup crew use (too valuable and slow-breeding) Care level: High difficulty. These are demanding isopods that require attention to environmental stability, proper nutrition, and patience. Husbandry mistakes that hardier species would tolerate can cause problems with White Duckies. Value proposition: White Ducky isopods are a premium species with pricing that reflects their rarity, slow breeding, and demanding care. They're collector's isopods—purchased for their visual appeal and the satisfaction of successfully maintaining a challenging species, not for practical bioactive applications. If you want to test your Cubaris-keeping skills with something genuinely impressive, they're worth the investment. If you're not confident in your ability to maintain stable conditions, spend more time with easier Cubaris species first.

  A great introduction to tropical isopods, with a charming species, that is more prolific in terms of breeding than other Cubaris sp. White Panda Kings are almost entirely white, with a darker strip along the dorsal line, allowing them to stand out against most substrates. Beyond that, they have the appealing features that make Cubaris sp. so popular.   • Origin: Vietnam     • Scientific Name: Cubaris Sp ‘Panda King’     • Difficulty Level: Medium     • Size:  10 to 18mm     • Rarity: Very Rare     • Temperature:  22°C to 28°C     • Humidity: 60% to 75%     • Diet: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables   If you're not a beginner you might be looking for a breeding project. If Cubaris sp. Have similar genetics to other isopod species it is likely that this white colouration is a recessive gene. In some species, this white gene when combined with other genes can cause orange, variegated, or mottled patterns. Even better if you combine two colours and the offspring are the original wild-type colour you will still get a stunning isopod.   Their diet needs to include some fruit, vegetables and a good quality fish food, and they do require a little higher in terms of calcium, probably due to their natural niche being in limestone caves, meaning that nearly everything will be rich in calcium.    They seem to like burrowing, or at least hiding away in leaves, so provide a reasonably deep layer of substrate and leaf litter. Cork bark and wood will be appreciated, used, and eventually broken down.    Whilst these are mostly nocturnal, once they have settled in and started breeding you will see them out and about.

Cubaris sp. "Miyako" (also sold as Iriomotensis "Miyako" or Japanese Red Edge) is a visually striking isopod from Miyako Island in southern Japan. Their dark body contrasted with vivid reddish-orange skirting and antennae makes them immediately recognisable. Native to the limestone forests of their island home, they share care requirements typical of Cubaris species—high humidity, limited ventilation, and calcium-rich substrates. What sets Miyako apart from many Cubaris is their relative hardiness and more accessible price point, making them a reasonable entry into the Cubaris genus for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Miyako Island, Japan Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Miyako" (sometimes listed as Cubaris iriomotensis) Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.2-1.5 cm Rarity: Medium to High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, protein sources Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, calcium powder Cubaris sp. Miyako: Introduction Miyako Island is a limestone island in the Okinawa Prefecture of southern Japan, characterised by subtropical forests with high humidity and abundant decaying vegetation. The isopods from this island have adapted to these warm, humid conditions with calcium-rich soil—requirements that translate directly into captive care. The taxonomy of these isopods remains somewhat debated. They're sometimes formally described as Cubaris iriomotensis, though classification discussions continue in the hobby. For practical purposes, "Miyako" identifies this specific locale regardless of the exact species designation. Miyako isopods are sometimes confused with Cubaris murina "Red Edge" due to similar colouration. While both display reddish-orange edging, they're distinct populations with slightly different appearances upon close inspection. If you're familiar with one, you'll notice differences in the other. Compared to some premium Cubaris species, Miyako offer attractive colouration at a more accessible price point. They're not the easiest Cubaris to breed prolifically, but they're hardier than some of the more demanding species, making them a sensible stepping stone for keepers wanting to try Cubaris without immediately jumping to the most challenging (and expensive) options. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.2-1.5 cm Dark, almost black body colouration Striking reddish-orange colouration on the skirting (edges of each segment) Reddish-orange antennae matching the skirt colouration Smooth, glossy carapace with attractive sheen Capable of conglobation (rolling into a ball) though they don't do so as readily as some species Compact, rounded body shape typical of Cubaris The colour contrast between the dark body and vivid orange edging is genuinely eye-catching. Under good lighting, the glossy carapace adds to their visual appeal. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Miyako display typical Cubaris behaviours with some notable characteristics. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal but will venture out during the day in established colonies. They're more likely to be visible in dim lighting conditions. Conglobation: While capable of rolling into a defensive ball, Miyako don't curl up as readily as some other isopods. They're described as relatively "fearless" compared to more skittish species, often continuing their activities rather than immediately rolling when disturbed. Burrowing: They're active burrowers and enjoy digging into substrate. This behaviour is important to accommodate—shallow substrate frustrates their natural instincts. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They cluster together comfortably and show no aggression toward each other or other species. Stress responses: While hardier than some Cubaris, they're still sensitive to environmental changes. Sudden fluctuations in humidity or temperature can cause stress. Minimise handling and avoid frequent enclosure disturbances. Diet Miyako isopods have dietary requirements typical of Cubaris species, with emphasis on calcium and protein. Primary foods: Decaying hardwood (essential base food) Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting wood in various stages of decay Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: carrot, courgette, sweet potato Occasional fruits in small amounts Fish flakes or pellets for protein Dried shrimp Mushrooms (dried or fresh) Calcium requirements: Higher than many species. Their native limestone island environment means they're adapted to calcium-rich conditions. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Inadequate calcium leads to moulting problems and poor health. Protein requirements: Also elevated compared to some species. Regular protein supplementation through fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar sources supports healthy growth and successful breeding. Feeding approach: Maintain a constant supply of leaf litter and decaying wood. Supplement with vegetables and protein sources every few days. Offer small portions initially and observe consumption to avoid overfeeding and potential pest attraction. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Breeding Miyako isopods breed reasonably well in captivity, though they're not as prolific as some beginner species. Breeding difficulty: Medium. They're not the fastest breeders, but with proper conditions, colonies grow steadily. Don't expect explosive population growth—Cubaris generally reproduce more slowly than Porcellio or Armadillidium species. Breeding requirements: Stable high humidity (70-80%) Consistent warm temperatures (22-26°C ideal for breeding) Abundant calcium availability Adequate protein in diet Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Brood characteristics: Females carry developing young in their marsupium and release fully formed juveniles. Brood sizes are moderate. Colony establishment: Starting with a group of 10+ individuals provides the best foundation for a breeding colony. This ensures genetic diversity and a good chance of having both sexes represented. Patience is required—Cubaris colonies develop over months rather than weeks. Tips for success: Stability is key. Avoid frequent substrate changes, temperature fluctuations, or other disturbances. Once conditions are right, let the colony establish without interference. Checking constantly and digging through substrate to count individuals causes stress that inhibits breeding. Cubaris sp. Miyako: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid, limestone forest environment. Enclosure: A plastic container or glass terrarium with limited ventilation. Unlike species requiring airflow, Cubaris need humidity retention. A container with minimal ventilation holes or a glass enclosure with restricted airflow works well. Starting size of 6-10 litres suits a starter colony, with larger enclosures for growing populations. If using a glass display enclosure, ensure it retains humidity effectively. The ability to observe these attractive isopods is a genuine benefit of glass, but humidity management becomes the priority. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—these are active burrowers. Provide 10-15cm (4-6 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout Crushed limestone or calcium powder (generous amounts—10% or more) Leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for moisture retention The calcium content is particularly important given their limestone island origins. Don't skimp on limestone or calcium supplements in the substrate mix. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-80%. These are not isopods that tolerate dry conditions: Maintain consistently moist (not waterlogged) substrate Use sphagnum moss patches to hold moisture Mist regularly to maintain humidity Provide a moisture gradient with slightly drier and wetter areas Limited ventilation helps retain humidity Monitor humidity levels, especially in warm weather when evaporation increases. Dry conditions stress Cubaris quickly. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Unlike Mediterranean Porcellio species, Cubaris from humid Asian environments need restricted airflow. Too much ventilation drops humidity to harmful levels. Small ventilation holes or gaps rather than mesh lids work better. Balance is needed—some air exchange prevents stagnation and mould, but prioritise humidity retention over airflow. Lighting: They prefer dim conditions. Avoid bright, direct lighting on the enclosure. Subdued lighting or positioning away from direct light sources keeps them comfortable and more likely to be active and visible. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Flat bark sections Limestone pieces (functional and aesthetic) Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Egg cartons or coconut shells as additional hides Provide multiple hiding options throughout. Their burrowing nature means much activity happens below the surface, but surface hides encourage visible activity. Temperature: 20-28°C (68-82°F). They tolerate a reasonable range but avoid extremes. Room temperature in most UK homes works during warmer months; supplemental heating may be needed in winter to maintain optimal conditions. Bioactive Use Cubaris sp. Miyako can function in bioactive setups meeting their humidity requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog enclosures Tropical gecko habitats Any high-humidity bioactive system Advantages: Attractive appearance adds visual interest Effective decomposers in humid environments Peaceful coexistence with other cleanup crew species Interesting behaviour to observe Considerations: Not suitable for arid or semi-arid setups Slower breeding than standard cleanup crew species Higher value than typical bioactive isopods Require consistent high humidity that not all setups provide Less ideal for: Dry or Mediterranean-style enclosures Setups with significant humidity fluctuation Situations requiring rapid population growth Budget cleanup crew applications Suitability Cubaris sp. Miyako suit keepers ready to move beyond beginner species into the Cubaris genus. Good choice for: Keepers with basic isopod experience wanting to try Cubaris Those maintaining humid tropical setups Collectors seeking attractive species at accessible prices Bioactive enthusiasts with high-humidity enclosures Anyone wanting visually striking isopods without premium Cubaris prices Not ideal for: Complete beginners (start with P. scaber or similar first) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers wanting rapid colony growth Those unable to maintain consistent humidity Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're among the more forgiving Cubaris species, but still require attention to humidity and substrate depth that beginner species don't demand. Keepers comfortable maintaining stable humid conditions will find them straightforward. Those accustomed to hardy, dry-tolerant species may need to adjust their approach. Compared to other Cubaris: More accessible than premium species like Rubber Ducky or Panda King in both price and difficulty. They offer genuine Cubaris appeal—the colouration, the behaviour, the care requirements—without the steep learning curve and cost of the most demanding species. A sensible choice for testing whether Cubaris keeping suits you before investing in rarer options. Expectations: Expect attractive, interesting isopods that reward proper care with steady (not explosive) colony growth. Their colouration genuinely impresses, and their behaviour—particularly the burrowing and relative boldness—adds interest beyond just visual appeal. Don't expect them to thrive with neglect or fluctuating conditions, but do expect success with consistent, appropriate husbandry.

Crabby Isopods (Cubaris sp.): The Captivating Cave Dwellers Crabby Isopods are an extraordinary species of Cubaris that have captured the hearts of isopod enthusiasts worldwide. Originating from the mysterious limestone caves of Thailand, these remarkable crustaceans bring a unique charm to any terrarium or bioactive setup. Their distinctive appearance and fascinating behaviour make them a prized addition to any serious collector's menagerie. Species Overview Place of Origin: Thailand Kingdom: Animalia Phylum: Arthropoda Subphylum: Crustacea Order: Isopoda Family: Armadillidiidae Genus: Cubaris Species: Cubaris sp. "Crabby" Key Care Requirements Maintenance Effort: Medium Ideal Temperature Range: 72°F-80°F (22°C-27°C) Reproduction Rate: Slow to Moderate Ventilation: High General Size: 15-18mm Rarity Level: Rare Humidity Range: 70%-80% Preferred Diet: Leaf litter, vegetables, protein supplements Essential Supplements: Limestone, cuttlefish bone, calcium powder Natural Habitat and Behaviour In their native Thailand, Crabby Isopods inhabit the cool, humid environment of limestone caves and karst formations. These underground sanctuaries provide the perfect combination of high humidity, stable temperatures, and abundant calcium sources that these remarkable creatures require to thrive. Like most Cubaris species, Crabby Isopods are naturally shy and secretive creatures. They spend much of their time burrowing through substrate layers and hiding beneath cork bark, emerging primarily during nighttime hours to forage for food. This fossorial behaviour makes them excellent candidates for bioactive vivarium setups where they can fulfil their natural role as ecosystem engineers. Physical Characteristics These medium-sized isopods display the characteristic charm that has made Cubaris species so popular among collectors. Their robust exoskeleton provides protection whilst their distinctive colouration helps them blend seamlessly into their cave environment. Like other members of the Armadillidiidae family, they possess the ability to roll into a protective ball when threatened, earning them the classification as true "pill bugs". Adult Crabby Isopods typically reach 15-18mm in length, making them substantial enough to observe their fascinating behaviours whilst remaining manageable in captive environments. Their segmented bodies and prominent antennae give them an endearing appearance that has captivated hobbyists worldwide. Diet and Nutrition As natural detritivores, Crabby Isopods play a crucial ecological role in breaking down organic matter. In captivity, their diet should consist primarily of aged leaf litter and decaying hardwood, which form the foundation of their nutritional needs. Understanding their feeding habits is essential for maintaining a healthy colony. Supplement their natural diet with small portions of organic vegetables such as carrots, sweet potatoes, and squash. High-quality protein sources like fish flakes, dried shrimp, or specialised isopod pellets should be offered 2-3 times per week to support healthy moulting and reproduction. Calcium supplementation is absolutely critical for Crabby Isopods. Provide limestone chunks, powdered calcium, cuttlefish bone, or crushed eggshells to replicate the calcium-rich environment of their natural limestone caves. This mineral supplementation supports proper exoskeleton development and successful moulting cycles. Creating the Perfect Enclosure Successfully keeping Crabby Isopods requires replicating their natural cave environment. Start with a well-ventilated plastic container of at least 6-quart capacity for a starter culture. Proper ventilation is essential - create multiple airflow holes covered with fine mesh to maintain air circulation whilst preventing escapes. The substrate should be at least 6 inches deep to accommodate their burrowing behaviour. Use a moisture-retentive mix combining organic compost, leaf mould, and decomposed hardwood. Add a layer of sphagnum moss in one section to create humidity gradients and hiding opportunities. Furnish the enclosure with cork bark pieces, limestone chunks, and abundant leaf litter. These elements serve multiple purposes: providing hiding spots, creating microclimates, offering food sources, and supplying essential calcium. The setup should mimic the layered environment of their natural cave habitat. Temperature and Humidity Management Maintain temperatures between 72-80°F (22-27°C) to keep your Crabby Isopods active and healthy. Avoid dramatic temperature fluctuations, as these can stress the colony and impact reproduction rates. A consistent warm environment encourages natural behaviours and steady growth. High humidity levels of 70-80% are essential, but ensure adequate ventilation to prevent stagnant air and mould issues. Monitor moisture levels carefully - the substrate should feel damp but never waterlogged. Create a moisture gradient with one end slightly drier to give isopods options for thermoregulation. Breeding and Colony Development Crabby Isopods reproduce at a moderate pace once established, typically producing small broods of 5-15 offspring. Females carry their eggs in a marsupium (brood pouch) for approximately 4-6 weeks before releasing miniature versions of the adults called mancae. Successful breeding requires stable conditions, adequate nutrition, and minimal disturbance. Young isopods remain with their mother for several weeks, receiving nourishment and protection during their vulnerable early stages. Building a thriving colony takes patience, but established cultures can provide years of enjoyment. Care Difficulty and Considerations Crabby Isopods are classified as medium-difficulty species, making them suitable for keepers with some prior isopod experience. They require more attention to environmental parameters than beginner species but are more forgiving than the most challenging Cubaris varieties. Success with this species depends on maintaining consistent conditions, providing proper nutrition, and understanding their shy nature. They prefer minimal handling and disturbance, thriving best when left to establish their own routines within a well-designed habitat. For newcomers to the hobby, consider starting with beginner-friendly species before advancing to these more specialised Cubaris varieties. However, dedicated keepers who research proper care techniques will find Crabby Isopods to be rewarding and fascinating terrarium inhabitants. Why Choose Crabby Isopods? These remarkable creatures offer a unique combination of beauty, behaviour, and biological function that makes them standout additions to any collection. Their role as bioactive cleanup crew members makes them invaluable in naturalistic setups, where they continuously work to process organic waste and maintain healthy substrate conditions. Beyond their practical benefits, Crabby Isopods provide endless opportunities for observation and study. Their complex social behaviours, moulting cycles, and reproductive strategies offer insights into the fascinating world of terrestrial crustaceans. Whether you're selecting species for your collection or seeking unique additions to your terrarium, Crabby Isopods represent an excellent choice for dedicated enthusiasts ready to provide the specialised care these remarkable creatures deserve. Shipping Information Isopods are posted Monday to Thursday using Royal Mail's next day by 1pm service Plus 20% overcount sent with every order 24/7 live chat available - We are always here and happy to chat! (subject to sleeping) Helpful Resources Cubaris Isopod Care: A Comprehensive Guide What Do Woodlice Eat? Top Foods and Feeding Habits Explained Top Isopod Species for Your Vivarium How to Choose the Right Isopod Species Best Isopods for Beginners (UK Edition)

Cubaris sp. "Salmon" is a Caribbean Cubaris originating from Martinique in the French West Indies. Named for their distinctive deep orange-pink colouration reminiscent of salmon sushi, they're one of the more visually unusual Cubaris available. Their tropical island origins mean they require high humidity and warmth, but compared to some Asian Cubaris species, they're considered relatively tolerant and accessible. For keepers wanting an attractive Cubaris with genuine personality, Salmon isopods offer good value—particularly at their current reduced pricing. A Glimpse Origin: Martinique, French West Indies (Caribbean) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Salmon" Maintenance required: Low to Medium Average Size: 1.4-1.6 cm Rarity: Medium to High Lifespan: 2-4 years Temperature: 22-27°C (71-80°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-85% (high) Favorite food: Decaying vegetation, leaf litter, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, calcium powder Cubaris sp. Salmon: Introduction Martinique is a volcanic island in the Caribbean's Lesser Antilles, characterised by tropical rainforest, high humidity, and warm temperatures year-round. The isopods from this island have evolved in consistently humid, warm conditions—requirements that translate directly into captive care. The "Salmon" name comes from their colouration, which genuinely resembles the pink-orange hue of salmon flesh. It's an apt description—when you see them, the name makes immediate sense. This natural colour morph stands out among Cubaris species, most of which display darker or more muted tones. Compared to many Asian Cubaris species that demand precise conditions and punish any fluctuations, Salmon isopods are considered more forgiving. They're still Cubaris—they still need high humidity and appropriate care—but they're described as more tolerant to minor variations than some of the notoriously fussy species. This makes them a reasonable option for keepers with some experience wanting to explore Cubaris without immediately tackling the most demanding species. A note on naming: "Salmon isopods" can technically refer to marine parasitic isopods that affect fish. The isopods sold here are entirely terrestrial, harmless Cubaris species—completely different animals despite the shared common name. Cubaris sp. Salmon: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.4-1.6 cm Distinctive deep orange-pink colouration (the "salmon" hue) Thick, robust exoskeleton Capable of full conglobation (rolling into a tight defensive ball) Rounded, compact body shape typical of Cubaris Smooth carapace with subtle sheen Colouration consistent across individuals (natural morph, not selectively bred) The colour is genuinely striking—not subtle. Under good lighting, their salmon-pink tones are immediately apparent and quite unlike most other isopod species. Behaviour Cubaris sp. Salmon display typical Cubaris behaviours with some characteristics worth noting. Activity patterns: Nocturnal. They prefer darkness and will be most active during evening and night hours. During the day, expect them to remain hidden in substrate or under cover. Keeping them in darker locations encourages more visible activity. Conglobation: They readily roll into defensive balls when disturbed—a classic Cubaris trait. This defensive response is reliable and complete. Burrowing: Active burrowers that dig into substrate to maintain moisture and feel secure. Deep substrate accommodates this natural behaviour. Social behaviour: Peaceful and social. They form loose colonies without aggression and coexist well with springtails and other cleanup crew species. Temperature tolerance: Described as tolerant to temperature variation compared to some Cubaris, though "tolerant" is relative—they still need warmth and shouldn't be subjected to cold conditions or extreme fluctuations. Breeding behaviour: They breed throughout the year when conditions are stable, producing moderate brood sizes at a reasonable rate. Diet Salmon isopods are not picky eaters—they accept a wide variety of foods. Primary foods: Decaying leaf litter (oak, beech, and similar hardwoods) Rotting hardwood Decaying plant matter Cork bark Supplementary foods: Vegetables: sweet potato, carrot, courgette, potato Leafy vegetable scraps Occasional fruits Fish flakes for protein Dried shrimp Algae (they consume it naturally) Protein requirements: Moderate protein supplementation supports healthy growth and breeding. Fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar protein sources should be offered regularly. Calcium requirements: Essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, crushed oyster shell, or calcium powder as constant supplements. Feeding approach: They're good eaters that accept most offerings. Provide amounts they can consume in a sitting—overfeeding can attract pests even in humid enclosures. Remove uneaten fresh foods within 24-48 hours. Maintain constant access to leaf litter and decaying wood as baseline food sources. Cubaris sp. Salmon: Breeding Salmon isopods breed reasonably well in captivity with moderate effort. Breeding rate: Moderate. They're not explosive breeders, but colonies grow steadily under appropriate conditions. They breed year-round rather than seasonally. Brood characteristics: Females carry developing young and release fully formed juveniles. Brood sizes are described as small to average—not huge numbers, but consistent production. Breeding requirements: High humidity (70-85%) Stable warm temperatures (22-27°C) Adequate calcium for gravid females Sufficient protein in diet Deep substrate for security Minimal disturbance Colony establishment: Starting with a group provides better breeding success through genetic diversity and guaranteed mixed sexes. Their moderate breeding rate means patience is needed—colonies develop over months. Tips for success: Stability matters more than perfection. Consistent conditions encourage breeding; frequent disturbances or fluctuating parameters inhibit it. Once established, let colonies develop without constant intervention. Cubaris sp. Salmon: Habitat Setup Creating appropriate conditions means replicating their humid Caribbean forest environment. Enclosure: A container or terrarium with limited ventilation to retain humidity. Plastic containers with minimal ventilation holes work well for culturing; glass enclosures allow better viewing of these attractive isopods but require attention to humidity retention. A 6-10 litre container suits a starter colony. Locking or secure lids prevent escapes and help maintain moisture levels. Substrate: Deep substrate is essential—these are active burrowers seeking moisture. Provide 8-10cm (3-4 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as a base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss mixed throughout for moisture retention Crushed limestone or calcium powder generously incorporated Hardwood leaf litter layered on top Decaying hardwood pieces Sphagnum moss patches for additional moisture retention Charcoal pieces (optional, aids drainage and reduces odour) The substrate should retain moisture well while allowing some drainage to prevent waterlogging. Humidity: High humidity is essential—70-85%. Their Caribbean origins mean they're adapted to consistently humid conditions: Maintain moist (not waterlogged) substrate throughout Keep approximately 75% of the enclosure moist, 25% slightly drier Mist regularly to maintain humidity Sphagnum moss patches help retain moisture between misting Limited ventilation preserves humidity Monitor humidity levels. If substrate dries out, they'll burrow deeper seeking moisture—consistently dry conditions cause stress and inhibit breeding. Ventilation: Low ventilation. Restrict airflow to maintain humidity. Small ventilation holes rather than mesh lids prevent excessive moisture loss. Some air exchange prevents stagnation, but humidity retention is the priority. Lighting: They prefer darkness. Keep enclosures away from direct light and bright areas. Dim conditions encourage activity and reduce stress. If using a display enclosure, position it away from windows and bright room lighting. Décor and hides: Cork bark pieces and tubes Coconut shell halves Lotus pods Egg carton sections Leaf litter coverage Sphagnum moss patches Decaying wood pieces Multiple hiding options allow individuals to establish comfortable spaces and form loose colony groupings without competition. Temperature: 22-27°C (71-80°F). They need warmth reflecting their tropical origins. Room temperature in heated UK homes usually suffices, but monitor during colder months. Avoid cold locations and temperature drops below 20°C. Springtails: Adding springtails is highly recommended. High humidity environments can develop mould; springtails consume mould and help maintain enclosure cleanliness. They coexist peacefully with Salmon isopods and benefit the overall ecosystem. Bioactive Use Cubaris sp. Salmon can function in bioactive setups meeting their humidity requirements. Best suited for: Tropical bioactive enclosures Humid vivarium setups Dart frog habitats Tropical gecko enclosures High-humidity planted terrariums Advantages: Attractive colouration adds visual interest Effective decomposers in humid environments Peaceful coexistence with other species Year-round activity and breeding Considerations: Require consistently high humidity Not suitable for arid or semi-arid setups Moderate breeding means slower population recovery if predation occurs Higher value than standard cleanup crew species Less ideal for: Dry or Mediterranean-style enclosures Setups with fluctuating humidity Enclosures with heavy predation pressure Budget cleanup crew applications where fast breeding matters Suitability Cubaris sp. Salmon suit keepers wanting attractive Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with basic isopod experience ready for Cubaris Those maintaining humid tropical setups Collectors seeking unusual colouration Bioactive enthusiasts with high-humidity enclosures Anyone wanting visually distinctive isopods at reasonable prices Not ideal for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Arid or low-humidity setups Keepers unable to maintain consistent warmth and humidity Those wanting rapid population explosions Care level: Low to medium difficulty. They're considered more tolerant than some Cubaris species, making them accessible for keepers with foundational experience. The key requirements—high humidity, warmth, deep substrate—are straightforward to provide with basic equipment. They're a sensible introduction to Cubaris for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. Compared to other Cubaris: More forgiving than demanding species like Rubber Ducky or some Thai cave Cubaris. Their Caribbean origins seem to produce hardier animals than some Asian species that evolved in very specific microhabitats. At current sale pricing, they offer excellent value for an attractive, manageable Cubaris species. Expectations: Expect attractive isopods with genuine visual appeal that reward stable conditions with steady breeding. Their salmon colouration is distinctive and eye-catching. Don't expect them to tolerate neglect or dry conditions, but do expect reasonable success with consistent, appropriate care. They're a good stepping stone toward more demanding Cubaris species if that's your direction, or simply enjoyable to keep in their own right.

Red Pak Chong Isopods (Cubaris sp.) Red Pak Chong isopods are one of the most beautiful and sought after colour morphs in the isopod community. These little crustaceans have a deep red body with grey, orange and rusty accents, they are a real gem for any bioactive enclosure. Named after the Pak Chong district in Thailand where they originate, these isopods are a selectively bred colour mutation that has become highly prized among enthusiasts and collectors worldwide. Info Origin: Thailand - Pak Chong District Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Red Pak Chong' Care level: Medium Temp range: 75℉ - 80℉ (24℃ - 27℃) Size: ~ 1.5 cm Rarity: Super Rare Humidity: 70% - 80% (medium-high) Diet: Leaf litter, vegetables, fish food, decaying wood Supplements: Cuttlebone, dried shrimp, calcium powder Red Pak Chong Isopods These isopods come from the limestone caves and karst formations of the Pak Chong district in Thailand, where they have adapted to live in humid, tropical conditions. Red Pak Chong isopods are a colour mutation of the classic Pak Chong lineage, with red faces and tail sections and white highlights along their sides. This selective breeding has produced one of the most beautiful isopods in the hobby today. Red Pak Chong is special because it shares the same genetic lineage as the famous Cubaris sp. "Cherry Blossom" variety. These hardy isopods are a great stepping stone for keepers who want to move from beginner species to more challenging Cubaris varieties like Rubber Duckies and other premium morphs. They have moderate care requirements and are beautiful, so perfect for intermediate keepers. Characteristics of Red Pak Chong Isopods Deep red body with grey, orange and rusty accents Red faces and tail sections with white side highlights Robust size up to 1.5 cm Hardy, can tolerate some environmental fluctuations Moderate breeding rate, 6-12 mancae every 1-2 months* Nocturnal but active during the day during feeding Great bioactive cleanup crew Can conglobate (roll into a ball) when threatened Lively and social behaviour Feeding Red Pak Chong Isopods Red Pak Chong isopods are detritivores and prefer high quality organic matter and supplements. Provide a base diet of pesticide free leaf litter, oak, beech and magnolia leaves. They love protein rich food and need protein supplements at least twice a week to support their colour and breeding. Offer small amounts of fresh vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes and leafy greens. High quality fish food, dried shrimp and isopod diets like Repashy Morning Wood are great protein sources. Calcium supplementation through cuttlebone, crushed eggshells or limestone powder is essential for proper exoskeleton development and to maintain their colours. Red Pak Chongs love freeze dried vegetables and occasional treats of decaying white wood. Remove any uneaten food within 24 hours to prevent mould and maintain optimal enclosure conditions. Natural Habitat In their native Thai habitat, Red Pak Chong isopods live in the humid limestone caves and karst formations of the Pak Chong region. These environments provide consistent high humidity, stable temperatures and plenty of food. The caves protect them from temperature extremes while maintaining the moisture levels these tropical isopods need to survive. Understanding their cave dwelling origins is key to successful captive care as these isopods have evolved to live in low light, high humidity and good air circulation environments. Artificial Habitat for Red Pak Chong Isopods Create an optimal environment with a well ventilated enclosure and deep substrate to accommodate their natural burrowing behaviour. Keep temperatures between 75-80℉ (24-27℃) and humidity 70-80%. Provide good ventilation while preserving humidity by adding ventilation holes to only half of the enclosure, creating air circulation without compromising the humid microclimate. Add plenty of hiding spots with cork bark, moss and dried leaves. Sphagnum moss is essential for humidity and should never be allowed to dry completely. Create a moisture gradient with both damp and slightly drier areas, so the isopods can self regulate their moisture needs.Red Pak Chongs love a complex environment with multiple levels and plenty of space to explore. The enclosure should have both vertical and horizontal hiding spots for their active nature. Preferred Substrate Mix for Red Pak Chong Isopods The ideal substrate is a mix of good moisture retention, drainage and nutrition. Use a base mix of organic potting soil (pesticide free), coconut coir and sphagnum moss in a 2:1:1 ratio. Add earthworm castings for nutrition and a small amount of orchid bark for structure and drainage. Keep the substrate depth at least 4 inches to accommodate their burrowing behaviour. Top with a thick layer of mixed leaf litter and pieces of decaying white wood. Add cork bark pieces and make sure there is moss coverage all over the substrate surface. Add limestone powder or crushed cuttlebone to the substrate mix for readily available calcium sources. The substrate should be consistently moist but never waterlogged, with the moisture level slightly higher than what most other isopod species require. This balanced mix supports their tropical origins and provides all the nutrients they need to maintain their red colour and healthy breeding colonies.

Cubaris sp. "Frosty Jupiter" is a selectively bred colour morph of the popular Jupiter isopod, displaying reduced pigmentation that gives them a pale, frosted appearance compared to the standard variety. They retain the characteristic Jupiter patterning - light skirts, darker middle sections, and bright edges between body segments - but in softer, lighter tones. Whether this is a true albino, leucistic, or hypomelanistic mutation is debated, but either way, they're an attractive variation on an already appealing species. We'll be honest: having kept normal Jupiters for about three years before adding Frosty Jupiters to our collection in 2025, we still genuinely prefer the standard variety. The contrast on normal Jupiters is more striking in our opinion. That said, Frosty Jupiters are still a very cool-looking isopod and worth considering if you want something a bit different. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (selectively bred morph) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Frosty Jupiter" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 15-20mm Rarity: Medium-High Lifespan: 1.5-2 years Temperature: 64°F-79°F (18°C-26°C) Ventilation: Low-Medium Humidity: 60-70% Favourite food: Leaf litter, vegetables, forest moss Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, limestone, protein 2x weekly Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Introduction Frosty Jupiters are a colour mutation of the standard Cubaris sp. "Jupiter", which originates from the limestone caves of Thailand. The Frosty morph has been selectively bred to express reduced pigmentation, resulting in paler colouration while maintaining the distinctive banded pattern that gives Jupiters their planetary appearance. Care requirements are identical to standard Jupiters - if you can keep one, you can keep the other. The main difference we've observed is behavioural rather than care-related: our Frosty Jupiters tend to hang around on lichen-covered twigs more than the normal variety, which prefer hiding under cork bark. This might suggest the Frosties are slightly less light-sensitive than standard Jupiters, despite their pale appearance. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach 15-20mm, making them a medium-sized Cubaris. Colouration is pale cream, white, or light yellow where standard Jupiters would show darker tones. The distinctive Jupiter patterning remains - light edges (skirts), darker central sections, and bright lines between each body segment. They appear slightly stockier than normal Jupiters, though this may just be a visual effect of the lighter colouration (horizontal stripes aren't always slimming, as it turns out). Like all Cubaris, they can roll into a defensive ball when threatened. The gene responsible is thought to be leucistic or hypomelanistic rather than true albino. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Diet Feed Frosty Jupiters the same diet as standard Jupiters and other Cubaris species. Leaf litter should always be available - oak, beech, and other hardwood leaves work well. This is their primary food source. Rotting wood, particularly white-rotted softwood, provides essential nutrition and should be included in the enclosure. Vegetables like carrots, sweet potato, and butternut squash are readily accepted. Remove uneaten portions after a day or two. Protein is important - feed fish flakes, dried shrimp, or similar protein sources twice weekly. Calcium via cuttlefish bone or limestone is essential. Like other Cubaris from limestone cave environments, Jupiters benefit from having limestone pieces in their enclosure. This may help maintain colouration and supports healthy moulting. Forest moss and lichens are particularly appreciated by this species - they seem to enjoy grazing on these. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Behaviour Jupiter isopods, including the Frosty morph, are shy creatures. They spend most of their time hidden and are primarily nocturnal. Don't expect a highly visible colony - these aren't isopods you'll see wandering around during the day. They have a calm temperament and aren't aggressive. When disturbed, they'll typically freeze or roll into a ball. One interesting observation from our colony: Frosty Jupiters seem slightly bolder than standard Jupiters, spending more time visible on lichen-covered branches rather than hiding under cork bark. Whether this is specific to our colony or a general trait of the morph, we can't say for certain. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Breeding Like standard Jupiters, the Frosty morph is a slow breeder. They're described as seasonal breeders with a modest reproduction rate, though breeding can continue year-round under stable conditions. Patience is required - don't expect rapid colony growth. This is normal for the species and not a sign of problems. Consistent conditions (stable temperature, humidity, and food supply) are more important than any specific breeding triggers. Frosty Jupiter Isopods: Habitat Care is identical to standard Jupiters. A 6-litre container works for a starter colony. Temperature: 64-79°F (18-26°C). They don't like it too warm - this is a cave-dwelling species adapted to stable, moderate temperatures. Humidity: 60-70%. Maintain a moisture gradient with around one-third of the enclosure kept moist using sphagnum moss, while the rest remains drier. They don't appreciate overly dry conditions. Ventilation: Low to medium. Ensure some airflow but don't overventilate - they need humidity retention. Substrate: Use a soil-based mix at least 2-3 inches deep. Include: Organic topsoil as a base Rotting white wood pieces Leaf litter mixed through and on the surface Limestone pieces or chunks Sphagnum moss for the moist section Hides and décor: Cork bark provides essential hiding spots. Based on our experience, including some lichen-covered twigs or branches is worthwhile - Frosty Jupiters seem to particularly enjoy these. Who Are Frosty Jupiter Isopods Suited For? These suit keepers with some Cubaris experience who want a colour variation on the popular Jupiter species. They're not significantly harder to keep than standard Jupiters, so if you've successfully maintained those (or similar Cubaris), Frosty Jupiters should be manageable. If you're choosing between Frosty and standard Jupiters for your first Jupiter colony, we'd actually suggest starting with the normal variety - the colour contrast is more dramatic and they're typically a bit cheaper. But if you already have standard Jupiters and want to add something different, or you specifically prefer the paler aesthetic, Frosty Jupiters are a solid choice. For complete Cubaris beginners, consider starting with easier species like Panda King or Cubaris murina before moving to Jupiters of either variety.

Cubaris sp. "Giant Mandarin" is a larger Thai Cubaris species with bright orange colouration and distinctive red eyes. The name is apt—they're approximately three times larger than the common Cubaris murina "Mandarin" morph, reaching around 17mm as adults. They're believed to be related to Cubaris sp. "Giant Marina," sharing similar size characteristics but with their own orange pigmentation. For keepers wanting the appealing Cubaris "duck face" look in a more substantial package, Giant Mandarins deliver. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Giant Mandarin" Common Names: Giant Mandarin Isopod Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: Up to 17mm Rarity: Uncommon Temperature: 22-28°C (72-82°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, fruits, vegetables, decaying wood Supplements: Protein (twice weekly), calcium Giant Mandarin Isopod: Introduction Cubaris species have taken the isopod hobby by storm over the past few years, particularly since the discovery of the famous Rubber Ducky isopod in Thai limestone caves in 2017. Giant Mandarins are part of this wave of Southeast Asian Cubaris that combine interesting appearance with the characteristic rounded "duck face" that makes the genus so appealing. The "Giant" in the name refers to their size relative to smaller Cubaris morphs—at 17mm, they're substantial for the genus but not truly giant compared to species like Porcellio magnificus. They're roughly three times larger than the common Cubaris murina "Mandarin," which makes them easier to observe and gives them more visual presence in an enclosure. Their origin appears to be Thailand, possibly isolated from Cubaris sp. "Giant Marina." Like most Cubaris, they appreciate higher humidity, deep substrate for burrowing, and a protein-supplemented diet. They're not the most demanding Cubaris species, but they're not as forgiving as beginner isopods either—moderate care is required. Giant Mandarin Isopod: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 17mm in length Bright tangerine-orange body colouration Distinctive red eyes (a striking feature) Characteristic Cubaris "duck face" with rounded head Chunky, robust body shape Can roll into a ball (conglobation) when threatened Colour may intensify with age and proper nutrition The red eyes are particularly notable—they contrast attractively against the orange body and make identification straightforward. The orange colouration ranges from lighter tangerine to deeper orange depending on individual, age, and diet. Behaviour Giant Mandarins display typical Cubaris behaviour patterns. Activity patterns: Active throughout day and night, but most visible during evening and nighttime hours. Like most Cubaris, they're often described as "shy" but become bolder as colony numbers increase. Burrowing: Semi-fossorial—they spend considerable time burrowed into substrate but also forage through leaf litter and under bark. Provide adequate substrate depth (10-15cm) to accommodate this behaviour. Conglobation: They can roll into balls when threatened, typical of many isopod species. Social behaviour: Gregarious. They aggregate in favoured hiding spots under cork bark and in substrate pockets. Higher numbers lead to more visible activity. Climbing: Capable climbers. Some Cubaris species can climb smooth vertical surfaces, so secure lids with fine mesh are sensible. Response to disturbance: Either conglobate or exhibit rapid escape responses, quickly scuttling to safety. Diet Giant Mandarins have dietary needs typical of Cubaris species, with particular emphasis on protein. Primary foods: Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, birch, maple) Decaying white-rotted wood Forest moss and lichens Supplementary foods: Sweet fruits (apples, oranges, mango—particularly enjoyed) Vegetables: sweet potato, carrot, squash, courgette Commercial isopod foods Protein: Cubaris species have higher protein requirements than many isopods. Offer protein sources twice weekly: Fish flakes or pellets Freeze-dried shrimp or minnows Dried bloodworms Reptile shed skin Adequate protein helps prevent cannibalism and supports healthy breeding. Calcium: Provide cuttlebone, crushed limestone, or oyster shell. Limestone is particularly appropriate given that many Cubaris originate from limestone cave environments. Feeding approach: Leaf litter should form the base of their diet—keep it available at all times. Supplement with vegetables, fruits, and protein. Remove uneaten fresh foods before they mould. They seem particularly fond of sweeter foods. Giant Mandarin Isopod: Breeding Giant Mandarins breed at a fair rate once established, though not as prolifically as some species. Breeding basics: Reproduction rate: Fair (not fast, not slow) Growth rate: Normal to slow Females carry eggs in brood pouch Stable conditions encourage breeding Establishment period: Like many Cubaris, they may take time to establish and begin breeding at a meaningful rate. Patience is required—don't expect rapid population growth initially. Tips for breeding success: Maintain stable temperature (22-28°C) Keep humidity consistent (60-80%) Provide adequate protein Minimise disturbance Ensure deep substrate for burrowing Provide ample hiding spots Brood size: Moderate brood sizes typical of Cubaris species. Population growth is steady rather than explosive once the colony establishes. Giant Mandarin Isopod: Habitat Setup Cubaris require more attention to setup than beginner species. Enclosure: A 6-quart container works for starter colonies, but larger setups (12+ quart) better accommodate their burrowing behaviour and allow the colony to establish. Plastic storage containers with modified ventilation are standard. Secure lids are necessary as they can climb. Ventilation: Low to medium. Cubaris need good airflow despite requiring high humidity—stagnant air can be problematic. Cross ventilation (holes on opposite sides) works well. Cover ventilation holes with fine mesh to prevent escapes and keep out pests. Substrate: Deep substrate is important for Cubaris—aim for 10-15cm (4-6 inches) minimum: Organic topsoil as base (pesticide-free) Forest humus mixed in Sphagnum peat moss for moisture retention Decaying white-rotted wood pieces (substantial proportion—15%+) Crushed limestone mixed throughout (10%) Leaf litter layered on top The limestone is particularly relevant as many Cubaris originate from limestone environments. It provides calcium and may help replicate natural conditions. Humidity: 60-80%—consistently moist but not waterlogged: Keep approximately one-third of enclosure consistently moist with sphagnum moss Mist the moist section 2-3 times weekly Allow remaining area to be moderately humid but not wet Substrate should feel like a wrung-out sponge in moist areas Monitor carefully—Cubaris are sensitive to both desiccation and overly wet conditions Temperature: 22-28°C (72-82°F). Consistent warmth is more important than hitting exact numbers. Avoid temperature swings, particularly during moulting periods. Room temperature in heated UK homes generally works, but cooler rooms may need supplemental heating in winter. Décor: Cork bark pieces (they love hiding underneath) Leaf litter (essential—forms bulk of diet) Decaying wood pieces Sphagnum moss patches in moist areas Bioactive Use Giant Mandarins can work in bioactive setups but require consideration. Suitable applications: Tropical bioactive vivariums with high humidity Dart frog enclosures (though they may be too large for smaller frogs to eat) Display terrariums Humid reptile setups Strengths: Attractive orange colouration Visible size Effective decomposers Interesting behaviour Considerations: Require higher humidity than many bioactive setups provide Need deep substrate for burrowing Moderate care requirements mean less tolerance for suboptimal conditions Not as prolific as Porcellio or Armadillidium—may not sustain population under heavy predation Higher protein needs—may struggle if only organic waste is available Best approach: If using in bioactive setups, establish the colony separately first, then introduce once numbers are sufficient. Supplement their diet even in bioactive systems to maintain the colony. Tank Mates Compatible with appropriate invertebrates and vivarium inhabitants. Compatible: Other isopod species (though keeping Cubaris separately prevents potential hybridisation issues) Springtails (beneficial—they complement each other) Small snails As cleanup crew for: Dart frogs (smaller frogs won't eat adults; larger frogs may) Day geckos Small skinks Other humid-environment reptiles and amphibians Note: Their moderate breeding rate means heavy predation may deplete the population. They work better as cleanup crews than as feeders. Suitability Giant Mandarins suit keepers with some isopod experience who want attractive Cubaris. Good choice for: Intermediate keepers stepping up from beginner species Those wanting Cubaris with more visual presence than smaller species Keepers who appreciate the orange/red-eye colour combination Display colony enthusiasts Humid bioactive setup cleanup crews Less suited for: Complete beginners (start with something more forgiving) Arid or low-humidity setups Those wanting fast-breeding feeder colonies Keepers who prefer hands-off, low-maintenance species Care level: Moderate. Easier than some demanding Cubaris species, but not as forgiving as Porcellio or Armadillidium. Requires attention to humidity, temperature stability, and protein supplementation. Success depends on providing consistent conditions and understanding their needs. Value: At £30 for 5 (with bulk pricing available), they're reasonably priced for a Cubaris species. Not cheap, but not premium Rubber Ducky pricing either. The combination of larger size, attractive colouration, and red eyes makes them visually interesting without requiring exotic-species budgets. What to expect: Expect attractive orange isopods with distinctive red eyes that spend considerable time burrowed or hidden but emerge to forage, particularly in evening hours. Expect moderate breeding once established—not explosive population growth, but steady increases over time. Expect to provide more consistent care than beginner species require. Their larger size compared to smaller Cubaris morphs makes them more satisfying to observe, and the colour combination is genuinely appealing. They reward keepers who provide appropriate conditions without being unreasonably demanding. For those interested in Cubaris but not ready for the most challenging species, Giant Mandarins represent a sensible middle ground.

Murina Mandarin, otherwise named the Mandarin isopod, is a rare species that is easy to keep and handle pets. Featuring an orange-colored body, these isopods are a colored variant and popular for their striking appearance. Even though Murina Mandarin are low maintenance, they are a rare species, making them a prized possession for keepers. Murina Mandarin: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris murina Difficulty: Easy Rarity: Uncommon Temperature: 17–28°C Size: Up to 1.2 cm Humidity: Medium-high Favorable Foods: Greens, veggies, fruits, lichen, fish food, forest moss, decaying leaves, rotting white wood, and reptile and invertebrates molting. An Overview A unique and visually striking species, Murina Mandarin is a native to Thailand. Famed for its vibrant orange coloration, Murina Mandarin is a favourite among collectors and hobbyists who prefer rare species. An exotic and sought-after species, Murina Mandarin is from Cubaris genus. They grow up to 1.2 cm in size, which are relatively smaller in size then other species in the genus, making them an excellent choice for beginners and experienced keepers.  Although rare, Murina Mandarin requires minimum care as long as its habitat conditions are correct. Thriving in warm temperatures, Murina Mandarin can tolerate a wide humidity range, both medium and high. This is what sets them apart from other isopod species. Murina Mandarin: Basic Care We have provided an overview of the basic care requirements: As a hardy isopod species, Murina Mandarin suits both experienced keepers and beginners. Temperature between 17°C and 28°C boosts their overall health and growth. They also thrive better in humid levels between 55% and 70%.  Maintain a moist substrate as it is good for their molting process. Provide a balanced diet so your isopods are active and healthy. Murina Mandarin: Feeding Being a detritivores, Murin Mandarin thrives better on diet containing rotting white wood, decaying leaves, and forest moss. Pack their diet with nutrients by adding fresh vegetables, fruits, and greens. Serving them fish food or dried shrimp twice a week is also a good idea for to maintain their protein level. For calcium source, limestone or cuttlebone is a good option as they develop their exoskeleton. Murina Mandarin: Appearance and Behaviour The bright orange coloration makes these isopods attractive to look at.  Murin Mandarin is shy creatures and seeks shelter under substrate or decor.  They prefer to live in a well-established colony and socialize with other isopods. More active during the night, Murin Mandarin sleeps or hides during the daytime.  Murina Mandarin: Habitat An ideal habitat for Murin Mandarin isopods requires replicating their natural habitat, which you can create by maintaining moist and warm conditions within the terrarium. Use rich organic matter like rotting wood and decaying leaves for substrate, which provide shelter and food. For moisture retention, use forest moss along with maintaining good ventilation within the enclosure. Murina Mandarin: Substrate Mix A good substrate mix offers is not just shelter and plays a role of food source and retains moisture, so your isopods live comfortably. Creating the perfect substrate requires mixing orchid bark, sphagnum moss, and earthworm castings. Balancing nutrition and structure makes a great setup for your isopods. Also, it mimics the forest floor, where these isopods originally lived.

A small Chinese Cubaris species with a distinctive three-colour banding pattern across its body segments. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Daxin County, Guangxi, China Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. 'Daxin Tricolor' Difficulty Level: Low to Medium Size: Up to 1.5cm Rarity: Rare Temperature: 18°C to 27°C Humidity: 70% to 80% (medium-high) Favorite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables, fish food Supplements: Limestone, cuttlebone, calcium powder, protein sources Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: An Overview Daxin Tricolor isopods originate from the Guangxi region of southern China. They've gained attention in the hobby primarily for their colouration, which features three distinct colour bands across their body segments, typically combining shades of orange, black, and white or cream. Some keepers compare the pattern to candy corn, though the exact colouration can vary between individuals. These are a relatively smaller Cubaris species, staying compact at around 1.5cm when fully grown. They're not as demanding as some of the more sensitive Cubaris varieties like Rubber Ducky, making them a reasonable option for keepers who want to try a Chinese Cubaris without jumping straight to the most challenging species. That said, they're still Cubaris. They have the typical Cubaris personality: shy, secretive, and inclined to spend most of their time buried in substrate or hiding under bark. Don't expect them to parade around on the surface for your viewing pleasure. You'll see them mostly during evening hours, when feeding, or when you disturb the substrate. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Appearance The "tricolor" name describes the banding pattern that runs across their segmented bodies. Most specimens show a combination of orange, black, and lighter cream or white bands. The exact distribution and intensity of these colours varies between individuals, which adds interest when watching a colony develop. They have the typical Cubaris body shape: rounded and compact with the ability to roll into a defensive ball when threatened. This conglobation behaviour is characteristic of the genus and quite satisfying to observe. At 1.5cm adult size, they're on the smaller side for Cubaris. This makes them less visually impactful than larger species but also means they don't require as much space per individual. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Basic Care Daxin Tricolor care follows the general Cubaris template: moist, warm, and with good calcium availability. They're not the most demanding Cubaris species, but they do need consistent conditions to thrive. Temperature: Room temperature to slightly warm works well. Aim for 18°C to 27°C. They're not tropical cave dwellers like Rubber Ducky, so they don't need high heat, but they do prefer it on the warmer side of room temperature. Humidity: Medium to high humidity is important. Keep the substrate consistently moist but not waterlogged. A humidity gradient helps: one section of the enclosure should be damper than the rest, allowing the isopods to move between zones as needed. Ventilation: Moderate airflow is sufficient. Unlike the dry Spanish Porcellio species, Cubaris don't need aggressive ventilation. However, completely stagnant air can cause mould problems, so some airflow is still important. Substrate Depth: These isopods like to burrow. Provide at least 5-8cm of substrate depth to accommodate this natural behaviour. You won't see them much if the substrate is too shallow. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Feeding Daxin Tricolor are detritivores with the typical Cubaris appetite. They're not fussy eaters but do require a varied diet with adequate protein and calcium. Primary Food Sources: Mixed hardwood leaf litter Decaying white rotting wood Organic matter in the substrate Supplemental Foods: Vegetables (carrot, courgette, sweet potato, cucumber) Fish flakes or freeze-dried shrimp for protein Occasional fruit Calcium Sources: Cubaris species need reliable calcium for healthy moulting and breeding. Provide: Cuttlebone pieces Limestone chunks or powder Crushed eggshells Oyster shell Many keepers find that adding limestone directly to the substrate works well for Cubaris. This mimics the calcium-rich cave environments where many Cubaris species naturally occur. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Substrate Mix A moisture-retentive, nutrient-rich substrate supports healthy Cubaris colonies. These isopods spend a lot of time in and under the substrate, so getting this right matters. A suitable mix might include: Organic potting soil (pesticide-free) as a base Coconut coir for moisture retention Sphagnum moss mixed through and on top Earthworm castings for nutrition Orchid bark pieces for structure and drainage Limestone powder or chips for calcium Decaying hardwood pieces Layer the top with abundant leaf litter and add cork bark pieces for hides. Moss coverage on the surface helps maintain humidity and provides a comfortable surface environment. Keep the substrate consistently moist. It should feel damp when you touch it but shouldn't release water when squeezed. The deeper layers can be slightly wetter than the surface. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Enclosure Setup A standard Cubaris setup works well for Daxin Tricolor. Container Size: A 3-6 litre container is suitable for a starter colony. These are small isopods and don't need huge amounts of space initially. Hides: Cork bark pieces, both flat on the substrate and propped at angles, provide essential hiding spots. These isopods are shy and need places to retreat. Moss Coverage: Sphagnum moss across part of the substrate surface helps maintain humidity and provides additional cover. Leaf Litter: A thick layer of mixed hardwood leaves provides food and shelter. Don't skimp on this. Ventilation: A few ventilation holes or a small mesh panel is sufficient. These don't need the aggressive airflow that dry Porcellio species require. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Breeding Under appropriate conditions, Daxin Tricolor establish stable breeding colonies. They're not the fastest breeders in the Cubaris genus, but they're reasonably reliable once settled. What to Expect: Gradual colony growth rather than population explosions Brood sizes typical for smaller Cubaris (usually smaller broods than larger species) Seasonal variations in breeding activity Time needed to establish before reproduction becomes consistent New colonies often take a few months to settle before breeding picks up. This is normal Cubaris behaviour. Patience is required. Stable conditions support breeding success. Fluctuations in humidity or temperature can disrupt reproduction, so consistency matters more than perfection. Keep calcium readily available, provide protein supplementation, and maintain appropriate moisture levels. Cubaris Daxin Tricolor Isopods: Behaviour Like most Cubaris, these are secretive isopods. They spend daylight hours hidden in the substrate or under bark and become more active during evening and night hours. Typical Behaviours: Burrowing into substrate Congregating under cork bark and leaf litter Rolling into defensive balls when disturbed Nocturnal foraging Peaceful colony cohabitation Don't be alarmed if you rarely see your Daxin Tricolour. This is normal. A healthy colony that you never see is preferable to sick isopods that are constantly exposed on the surface (often a sign of problems). Who Are Daxin Tricolor Isopods For? These suit keepers who: Have some experience with isopods and want to try a Cubaris species Appreciate subtle visual appeal over dramatic displays Can maintain consistent humidity and temperature Don't need constant visual entertainment from their isopods Want a breeding project with moderate difficulty They might not suit: Complete beginners (start with hardier species first) Keepers wanting highly active, visible isopods Those unable to maintain consistent environmental parameters Anyone wanting rapid colony growth If you've successfully kept easier Cubaris like C. murina or similar species, Daxin Tricolour is a reasonable next step without being excessively challenging. Bioactive Use Daxin Tricolor can work in bioactive setups, though they're not the most efficient cleanup crew. Their small size and shy nature mean they won't process waste as quickly as larger, more active species. They're better suited to: Smaller tropical or subtropical enclosures Low-bioload setups Display terrariums where aesthetics matter more than waste processing Pair them with springtails for more comprehensive organic breakdown. The springtails handle small debris and mould prevention while the isopods tackle larger organic matter at their own pace. What's Included Each order contains healthy specimens selected from our breeding stock. We include a mix of sizes to help establish a balanced colony with breeding potential. A care sheet is provided with every order.

Snow Queen Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a striking white morph that has become popular among collectors for their clean, pale colouration. Native to Southeast Asia, these medium-sized isopods require consistent humidity and stable conditions to thrive. They are best suited to keepers with some experience, as they are less forgiving than hardier species when environmental conditions fluctuate. A Glimpse Origin: Southeast Asia (Thailand) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Snow Queen" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 1.5-2 cm Rarity: Rare Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 22-26°C (72-79°F) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, vegetables, decaying wood Supplements: Crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone Snow Queen Isopods: Introduction Snow Queen isopods get their name from their predominantly white or pale cream colouration. Like other Cubaris species, they originate from limestone-rich cave environments in Southeast Asia, where they inhabit humid crevices and feed on decaying organic matter. While their appearance makes them appealing to collectors, they are not the easiest species to keep. They require more attention to humidity and temperature stability than many beginner-friendly species, and their breeding rate is slower than faster-reproducing isopods like Porcellio species. These isopods are primarily nocturnal and tend to be shy, spending much of their time hidden beneath substrate, bark, or leaf litter. Don't expect to see them out and about constantly—they prefer to stay tucked away and will often only emerge when the enclosure is dark and undisturbed. Snow Queen Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Snow Queens display a pale white to off-white colouration across their segmented bodies, with some individuals showing subtle translucent areas. Adults typically reach 1.5-2 cm in length, making them a medium-sized Cubaris species. Like other members of their genus, they possess the ability to conglobate (roll into a ball) when threatened. Their colouration can vary slightly between individuals, with some appearing more cream-toned than pure white. They have the typical Cubaris body shape with segmented plates and two visible antennae. Juveniles emerge white and maintain this colouration as they mature. Diet Snow Queen isopods are detritivores and will consume a range of organic matter. Their primary food sources include dried leaf litter, decaying hardwood, and vegetable scraps. Oak and beech leaves work well as staple leaf litter. Supplementary foods can include: Vegetables such as carrots, courgette, sweet potato, and butternut squash Small amounts of protein from sources like dried shrimp, fish flakes, or earthworm castings Decaying hardwood (avoid softwoods) Calcium supplementation is essential for healthy moulting and exoskeleton development. Provide crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone, or powdered eggshells as a constant calcium source within the enclosure. Given their limestone cave origins, Cubaris species generally have higher calcium requirements than many other isopod genera. Avoid overfeeding—provide portions that will be consumed within a day or two to prevent mould growth, which can be problematic in high-humidity setups. Snow Queen Isopods: Personality Snow Queens are typically shy and reclusive. They prefer to hide during daylight hours and become more active in low light conditions. When disturbed, they will often roll into a defensive ball or quickly retreat beneath cover. They are not particularly interactive pets in the traditional sense. If you're looking for isopods that are frequently visible and active, more confident species like Porcellio scaber or Armadillidium vulgare may be more suitable. Snow Queens are better appreciated by keepers who enjoy maintaining the enclosure and occasionally spotting their isopods rather than expecting regular sightings. They are generally peaceful and can coexist with springtails, which are recommended as tank mates to help manage mould and debris in humid enclosures. Snow Queen Isopods: Breeding Snow Queen isopods are slow to moderate breeders compared to more prolific species. Females brood their eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles. Breeding success depends heavily on environmental stability—fluctuations in humidity or temperature can slow or halt reproduction. Key factors for breeding success: Maintain consistent humidity between 70-80% Keep temperatures stable within the 22-26°C range Provide adequate calcium for breeding females Avoid disturbing the enclosure unnecessarily, as stress can impact breeding Expect colony growth to be gradual. Patience is required when establishing a breeding population, and it may take several months before you see significant numbers of juveniles. Snow Queen Isopods: Habitat Setup Creating the right environment is crucial for Snow Queen isopods. As a Cubaris species from limestone cave habitats, they require conditions that differ from hardier European species. Enclosure: A plastic container with a secure lid works well. Ensure there are small ventilation holes, but avoid excessive airflow that will dry out the enclosure. A 19-litre container is suitable for a starter colony. Substrate: Use a substrate mix that retains moisture and provides calcium. A blend of organic topsoil, sphagnum peat, crushed limestone, and leaf litter works well. Avoid pure coco coir as the primary substrate for Cubaris species, as it lacks the calcium content they require and can become too acidite over time. If using any coir, mix it sparingly with limestone-rich components. Substrate depth should be at least 5-8 cm to allow for burrowing. Moisture gradient: Maintain one side of the enclosure more humid than the other. Mist the humid side regularly and add damp sphagnum moss to help retain moisture. The drier side gives the isopods options to regulate their own moisture needs. Décor: Include cork bark, hardwood pieces, and leaf litter to provide hiding spots and food sources. Lichen-covered twigs are also appreciated and provide additional grazing opportunities. Temperature: Room temperature in most UK homes is suitable (20-24°C), but avoid placing enclosures near windows, radiators, or other heat sources that could cause temperature fluctuations. A heat mat on a thermostat can be used if your ambient temperatures drop below 18°C regularly. Suitability Snow Queen isopods are best suited to intermediate keepers who have some experience maintaining humid enclosures. They are not the most forgiving species for beginners, as they are more sensitive to environmental fluctuations than species like dairy cow isopods or common rough woodlice. If you're new to isopod keeping, consider starting with hardier species to develop your husbandry skills before moving on to Cubaris species. If you already have experience with other isopods and are looking to expand your collection with something visually distinctive, Snow Queens can be a rewarding addition—provided you're prepared to maintain the conditions they need.

Isopods enthusiasts and hobbyists have always been intrigued by Amber Firefly isopods, mainly because of their unique appearance. In comparison to other isopods, these isopods have a striking appearance. The striking amber colour of their body resembles a firefly’s glow. This is one reason hobbyists are so interested in these isopods. These are also not a difficult isopod to care for  A Glimpse Origin: Central and South America Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty Moderate Size: 10 to 18 mm Rarity: Moderately Rare Temperature: 22°C to 28°C Humidity: 60% to 75% Favourite Foods: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables An Overview Amber Firefly isopods are unique. These small, land-dwelling crustaceans are known for their beautiful amber colour, which sets them apart from other isopod species. The best thing about having them as pets is that you don’t have to put in much effort to care for them. Unlike other isopods, Amber Firefly isopods don’t require intensive care. Well, this makes them an ideal choice for beginners with less knowledge about isopods. Firefly isopods belong to the cubaris genus, cited as isopods that thrive in tropical climates. Despite their name, Amber Firefly isopods don’t emit light like fireflies. But their amber-coloured exoskeleton is so vibrant that they tend to catch attention even in dimly lit settings. One thing to know about these isopods is that they feed on decomposing organic matter, which makes them excellent cleaners for vivariums and terrariums. These detritivores are native to Central and South America, where they live in a healthy and balanced ecosystem. Basic Care Caring for Amber Firefly isopods is easy. If you have decided to keep these tiny creatures as your pet, you should follow these instructions to provide the best care. Amber Firefly isopods thrive in warm environments. Their ideal temperature range is between 22°C and 28°C. So, make sure to maintain the right temperature inside the terrarium. To keep your Amber Firefly isopods happy and healthy, you should maintain the humidity between 60% and 70%. Using a misting bottle makes it easier to do this. When using the substrate mix for your isopods, make sure it remains damp at all times. However, don’t add too much water, as this can lead to mould growth and is not good for your isopods. Even though Amber Firefly isopods are tiny creatures, they need enough space to move around. To accommodate a small colony of isopods, it is recommended that you get a 10-gallon container or plastic bin. When choosing an enclosure for your isopods, it is important to ensure proper ventilation. After all, they need air to breathe and thrive. If required, you can create additional holes on the sides of the terrarium. Feeding As mentioned before, Amber Fireflies are detritivores, so you can feed them decomposing organic matter. All you have to do is provide the right amount at the right time in their enclosure. Amber Firefly isopods love eating leaf litter, so you can provide them with dried leaves like oak or other hardwood trees. You can easily get these types of leaves outside your home. Just make sure that they are pesticide-free. Another food item you can give to your isopods is decaying wood. For those unversed, it makes an important part of their diet, so you shouldn’t skip it at any cost. Amber Firefly isopods also eat vegetables like carrots, sweet potatoes, and zucchini so that you can give them small pieces of these foods. In addition to all these items, adding cuttlebone, fish flakes, and calcium powder to their diet is a good idea. This is essential for the growth of their exoskeleton. However, it would help if you kept in mind not to overfeed your isopods because that can lead to issues. Amber Firefly Isopods: Appearance and Behaviour You can easily recognise Amber Firefly isopods because of their stunning amber-coloured exoskeleton. Their unique colouration is appealing and makes them stand apart from other isopods. Many isopods are brown or grey. But Amber Firefly features a striking amber colouration. However, their appearance may vary depending on environmental factors. As far as the size is concerned, Amber Firefly isopods can grow up to 10-18 mm, making them medium-sized compared to other isopods. If you look closely at their body, you will notice the segmentation. They have seven pairs of legs, which allows them to move around quickly when disturbed. In terms of behaviour, Amber Firefly isopods are shy and peaceful. They spend most of their time hiding under decaying wood and leaf litter. Also, they prefer dark, damp environments as they don’t like bright light much. Since they are social creatures, they want to live in colonies with other isopods. Amber Firefly Isopods: Habitat The best way to keep Amber Firefly isopods is to get a terrarium or vivarium. You can use the enclosure entirely or put them in a bioactive setup with other species like amphibians or reptiles. It is recommended that your isopods be kept in a plastic or glass enclosure with proper ventilation and enough space to move around. Like other isopods, Amber Firefly isopods require hiding spots, so you can use leaf litter, cork rounds, and bark to make them feel secure. It would help if you ensured that their enclosure always remains moist. Amber Firefly Isopods: Substrate Mix For Amber Firefly isopods, coco coir can be used as the base substrate because it retains moisture better than other materials. If you cannot find coco coir, use peat moss. This moisture-retaining material adds a natural texture to the substrate. In addition to the base substrate material, leaf litter and decaying wood are also important. These provide a natural food source and a hiding place for your isopods. Combining these materials can create the perfect environment for your tiny pets. Providing them with an environment similar to their natural habitat is important. This way, you can watch your isopods grow and thrive.

Cubaris Crazy Horse Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a visually striking variety featuring mottled brown, tan, and rusty orange colouration that gives them a wild, untamed appearance - hence the name. Like most Cubaris species, they originate from Southeast Asia and share the typical care requirements of the genus: high humidity, warm temperatures, and calcium-rich substrates. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Crazy Horse" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 12-15mm Rarity: Very Rare Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 70°F-80°F (21°C-27°C) Ventilation: Low Humidity: 70-80% Favourite food: Leaf litter, vegetables, decaying wood Supplements: Crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone Crazy Horse Isopods: Introduction Crazy Horse isopods are a lesser-known Cubaris variety that appeals to collectors looking for something different from the more commonly seen species. Their earthy, mottled colouration sets them apart from the brighter Cubaris morphs, offering a more natural aesthetic that blends beautifully with bioactive setups. As with most Cubaris species, they're believed to originate from the limestone cave systems and humid forests of Thailand or surrounding regions. This is still a relatively new variety in the hobby, so detailed locality and breeding information is limited. What we do know is that they respond well to standard Cubaris care protocols. Crazy Horse Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Medium-sized Cubaris reaching approximately 12-15mm at maturity. Their colouration features a mix of browns, tans, and rusty orange tones in a mottled pattern. Individual variation is common, with some specimens displaying more orange whilst others lean towards darker browns. Like all Cubaris, they possess the ability to roll into a protective ball when threatened. Their earthy tones make them excellent for naturalistic terrarium displays where they blend into leaf litter and substrate. Crazy Horse Isopods: Diet As detritivores, Crazy Horse isopods feed primarily on decaying organic matter. In captivity, provide a varied diet to keep them healthy. Leaf litter should form the basis of their diet. Offer pesticide-free oak, beech, or magnolia leaves throughout the enclosure - this mimics their natural food source and provides hiding spots. Calcium is essential for proper moulting and exoskeleton development. Cubaris species from limestone regions have high calcium requirements, so provide cuttlefish bone, crushed limestone, or powdered eggshells. Consider adding small limestone pieces to the enclosure. Protein supports breeding and growth. Offer dried shrimp, fish flakes, or commercial isopod food occasionally. Vegetables like carrots, sweet potato, and butternut squash make excellent supplementary foods. Remove uneaten portions after a day or two to prevent mould. Crazy Horse Isopods: Behaviour Like other Cubaris species, Crazy Horse isopods are shy and prefer to remain hidden during daylight hours. They're most active at night when they emerge to forage. Don't expect to see them frequently - they'll spend much of their time beneath substrate, cork bark, and leaf litter. They're not particularly fast-moving and have a calm temperament. When disturbed, they'll typically freeze or roll into a ball rather than flee. This makes them poor choices if you want an active, visible species, but ideal for keepers who enjoy setting up naturalistic enclosures and observing natural behaviours. Crazy Horse Isopods: Habitat Creating an appropriate habitat is essential for Cubaris success: Enclosure: A plastic tub or glass terrarium works well. Ensure the enclosure retains humidity but has some ventilation to prevent stagnation. A 6-litre container is suitable for a starter colony. Substrate: Use a soil-based substrate mix at least 2.5-3 inches deep. Include organic matter, decaying hardwood, and limestone pieces. Avoid relying heavily on coco coir alone - Cubaris do better with a richer, more varied substrate. Moisture gradient: Keep one side of the enclosure moist with sphagnum moss whilst leaving the other side drier. This allows the isopods to regulate their own moisture levels. Temperature: Maintain temperatures between 70-80°F (21-27°C). Room temperature in most UK homes during warmer months is often suitable, but a heat mat on a thermostat may be needed in winter. Hiding spots: Provide plenty of cork bark, rotten wood, and leaf litter. Cubaris are secretive and need ample cover to feel secure. Crazy Horse Isopods: Breeding Breeding rate for this variety appears to be moderate, typical of most Cubaris species. They're not as prolific as some Porcellio species, so patience is required when establishing a colony. Females carry eggs in a brood pouch until the young hatch as miniature versions of the adults. Stable conditions are key to encouraging breeding. Avoid large fluctuations in temperature and humidity, and ensure calcium is always available. Disturbing the enclosure too frequently can stress the colony and reduce breeding success. Who Are Crazy Horse Isopods Suited For? These isopods suit keepers with some experience who are looking to expand their Cubaris collection with a less common variety. Their earthy colouration makes them ideal for naturalistic bioactive setups where you want isopods that blend in rather than stand out. They're not the best choice for complete beginners - consider starting with Cubaris murina or Panda King if you're new to the genus. However, for those comfortable with basic Cubaris care, Crazy Horse isopods offer something a bit different from the mainstream morphs.

Orange Freezy Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are a visually distinctive species from Thailand, recognised for their bright yellowish-orange colouration and semi-transparent "skirts" along their body edges. The name comes from their appearance - the translucent quality gives them a look as though they've been frozen in place. They're a larger Cubaris species, reaching around 20mm, with a chunky, wide body shape that makes them satisfying to observe. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand (possibly also Malaysia) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Orange Freezy" Maintenance required: Easy Average Size: Up to 20mm Rarity: Uncommon Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 75°F-82°F (24°C-28°C) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 55-70% Favourite food: Decaying wood, leaf litter, vegetables Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, limestone Orange Freezy Isopods: Introduction Orange Freezy isopods have become increasingly popular in the hobby due to their striking appearance and relatively manageable care requirements. While they're sometimes labelled as difficult, keepers with some prior Cubaris experience generally find them straightforward to maintain. They originate from tropical regions of Thailand and possibly Malaysia, though exact locality information is limited. One thing to be aware of: this species is sometimes incorrectly sold as "Orange Frenzy" - if you see that name, it's likely the same isopod. Orange Freezy Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics One of the larger Cubaris species, adults reach approximately 20mm in length. Their bodies are notably wide and chunky compared to other Cubaris, giving them a robust, almost cuboid appearance. The bright orange colouration is their defining feature, with semi-transparent edges or "skirts" around their body segments. This translucent quality creates the "frozen" appearance that gives them their name. Like other Cubaris, they can roll into a ball (conglobate) when threatened. Primarily nocturnal, so don't expect to see them much during the day. Orange Freezy Isopods: Diet Orange Freezy isopods are detritivores with a good appetite. They benefit from a varied diet. Primary food sources: White rotting wood is particularly important for this species Hardwood leaf litter (oak, beech, magnolia) Decaying organic matter Vegetables: Carrots, squash, radishes, and sweet potato work well Remove uneaten portions within a day or two, especially in humid conditions where food spoils quickly Protein: Feed protein sources once or twice weekly Freeze-dried minnows, shrimp, fish flakes, or dried insects Offer protein foods on the drier side of the enclosure to prevent spoilage Calcium: Cuttlefish bone is readily consumed Limestone chunks or pellets - they seem particularly fond of these Crushed eggshells or oyster shell Orange Freezy Isopods: Behaviour Like many Cubaris species, Orange Freezy isopods are shy and reclusive. They spend most of their time hidden and are primarily active at night. Don't expect a highly visible colony - these are isopods you'll need to lift hides to observe, at least until the population grows larger. They're not aggressive and have a calm temperament. When disturbed, they'll typically freeze or roll into a protective ball. Orange Freezy Isopods: Breeding Breeding rate is slow compared to many other isopod species. Expect to wait several months before seeing offspring, even with ideal care. This is normal for the species - patience is required. Once established, colonies will steadily grow, but don't expect rapid population explosions. Consistent conditions are key to encouraging breeding. Avoid fluctuations in temperature and humidity. Orange Freezy Isopods: Habitat A 6-litre sealed container is adequate for a starter colony of 10-15 individuals. Larger enclosures of 12 litres or more are better for established colonies. Temperature: These are tropical isopods that prefer warmth. Keep temperatures in the high 70s to low 80s°F (24-28°C). Avoid temperature swings - stability is more important than hitting an exact number. Humidity: Maintain 55-70% humidity. Unlike some Cubaris, Orange Freezy don't necessarily need a distinct moisture gradient - they can tolerate more uniform conditions. However, keeping one area slightly moister with sphagnum moss is still good practice. Ventilation: Moderate ventilation is needed. These aren't as sensitive to airflow as some Cubaris species, but still avoid stagnant conditions. Substrate: Use a soil-based mix at least 2-3 inches deep. Include: Organic topsoil as a base Rotting white wood pieces (important for nutrition) Leaf litter mixed through and on top Limestone pieces or chunks - they genuinely seem to appreciate these, likely mimicking their natural cave environments Hides: Provide cork bark, rotten wood, and moss coverage. Multiple hiding spots help them feel secure. Who Are Orange Freezy Isopods Suited For? These isopods are best suited for keepers with some prior experience, particularly with other Cubaris species. They're not as demanding as some of the more sensitive Cubaris varieties, but they do need consistent conditions to thrive. Complete beginners should consider starting with easier species first. For intermediate keepers looking for a visually striking Cubaris without extreme care requirements, Orange Freezy are a solid choice. Their bright colouration and chunky body shape make them rewarding to keep, even if you won't see them as often as more active species.

If you are a fan of unique pets or love discovering nature’s tiny wonders, Rubber Bee isopods will surely grab your attention because they are colorful and lovely. With their striking appearance and armored bodies, they stand apart from other species and give you a chance to own a pet so rare that you cannot find it in the wild anywhere else but Thailand, the origin country. Rubber Bee Isopods: A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Rarity: Rare Difficulty Level: Moderate Temperature: 21-27°C Size: Up to 15 mm Humidity: 70-80% Favorite Foods: Rotting wood, Decaying leaf litter, cork bark, lichen, moss, and gammarus shrimp An Overview Rubber Bees otherwise named as Rubber Ducky isopods are small, colorful creatures native to Thailand. Popular for the yellow-and-black markings on their bodies, it also sets them apart from other species in the region. For being a land ispods, the Rubber Bee has moderate care requirements, and it means that it need of more attention than entry-level species and need an experienced care-taker.  To have them as your pet translates to hard work and start with creating a bioactive terrarium followed with an ideal environment mimicking their natural habitat in the wild. These isopods are colorful and fun to watch, making them a great addition to any setup. Rubber Bee Isopods: Basic Care Here are some basic care tips to get you started with your journey as a keeper: Like other isopods, Rubber Bees cannot tolerate high temperatures and may become ill if the temperature is not kept between 21 °C and 27°C, the ideal range for their survival. Since they need high humidity, you should mist the enclosure regularly to prevent it from becoming excessively dry. Adding plenty of hiding spots can make the setup more comfortable. This encourages natural behavior and gives your isopods a place to rest and seek cover. Make sure there is proper airflow within the enclosure. Otherwise, your isopods will struggle to breathe and even suffocate. Rubber Bee Isopods: Feeding Since Rubber Bee Isopods are scavengers, they eat dead plants, old wood, and fallen leaves, so you must include all that in their diet in captivity. Feeding them is not a dreadful task and a combination of dried leaves, pieces of rotting wood, and special isopod foods sold in pet stores to balance their diet is indeed the best. They also love occasional treats like slices of carrots, cucumbers, or fish flakes, but make sure not to overfeed them, or else it will harm their health. Rubber Bee Isopods: Appearance & Behaviour Rubber Bee Isopods are tiny but striking, mainly because of their black bodies and bright yellow bands that make them look like little bees. Their shell is also soft and flexible, unlike any other species. They are pretty much social in nature and like to socialize in their colony, but you won’t see them before night because, during the daytime, they hide and rest underneath the leaf litter. They love to burrow in the soil and hide under leaves or wood, which is why you need to add plenty of substrates so they can carry on with their natural behavior without constraints. Rubber Bee Isopods: Habitat When creating the perfect habitat, you must mimic their natural environment so they can thrive in moist, shady places and have many hiding spots to seek cover. Only opt for the terrarium that has holes in the lid which ensures the proper airflow. Check on the humidity level as it is crucial as well. To maintain the same, mist the enclosure regularly and avoid placing it in direct sunlight because it can dry out the habitat quickly. Rubber Bee Isopods: Substrate Mix A good substrate mix can hold moisture and contains 50% organic topsoil, 25% coconut fiber, and 25% leaf litter, but without any fertilizer or harsh chemicals. Otherwise, your isopods can fall sick or even die. You can also add small pieces of rotting wood and crushed oyster shells so they can have their calcium fill and their exoskeleton can develop better and stronger.