A Glimpse
-
Origin: Mozambique / South Africa
-
Scientific Name: Centrobolus annulatus
-
Other Common Names: Mozambique Fire Millipede, Red Coral Millipede, Red Ring Millipede
-
Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate
-
Adult Size: 7–10 cm
-
Rarity: Medium — not commonly available in the UK hobby
-
Temperature: Room temperature (18–24°C). No additional heat needed.
-
Humidity: High — substrate should be kept moist to the touch
-
Ventilation: Good cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould
-
Diet: Decaying leaf litter, rotting wood, cucumber, melon, banana, cooked sweetcorn, soft vegetables
-
Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed eggshell, or limestone for calcium
Red Fire Millipede: Overview
The Red Fire Millipede is one of the more striking smaller millipede species you'll come across. The vibrant red body with contrasting dark banding makes them genuinely eye-catching — they really do look as good as the photos suggest. That said, they're not a giant species. If you're expecting something the size of an African Giant, these aren't it. Adults typically reach around 7–10 cm, so they're a compact millipede, but what they lack in size they make up for in colour.
These are native to the forests of Mozambique and South Africa, where they spend their time on the forest floor and climbing through low vegetation. They're actually quite keen climbers compared to some other species, so don't be surprised to find them scaling branches and cork bark in their enclosure rather than burrowing into the substrate. Make sure whatever enclosure you use has a secure lid — they are surprisingly strong for their size.
Keeping Them
Setup is straightforward. You'll want an enclosure at least 30cm x 30cm x 30cm with a good 10cm depth of moist substrate — a mix of coconut coir, organic compost, and decaying hardwood works well. Layer some leaf litter and rotting wood on top, as this forms a big part of their diet. Add some thick branches or cork bark for climbing, and you're pretty much there.
Room temperature is fine for these — no heat mats or lamps required. In fact, overheating them is more of a risk than keeping them too cool. Keep the substrate damp but not waterlogged, and make sure there's decent airflow through the enclosure. Stagnant, overly humid conditions can lead to mould, which isn't great for the millipedes or the enclosure.
They'll eat their way through the substrate and leaf litter, but you should also offer fresh vegetables. Cucumber, melon, banana, and cooked sweetcorn tend to go down well. Remove uneaten food before it goes off. A calcium source like cuttlebone or crushed eggshell should always be available to support healthy exoskeleton development through moults.
Temperament and Handling
These are docile millipedes and can be handled, though they're not the most enthusiastic about it. They'll generally just trundle along slowly across your hands. Like all millipedes, they can secrete a mild defensive liquid if they feel threatened — it's not dangerous but can stain skin temporarily, so wash your hands after handling.
They're social and can be kept communally without issues, which is worth bearing in mind if you're thinking of keeping a small group.
A Honest Note
We want to be upfront — Centrobolus species, including the Red Fire Millipede, don't always have the longest track record in captivity compared to some of the larger, more established species like African Giants. Some keepers have reported shorter lifespans, and they can be a bit more sensitive to getting conditions wrong. They're not difficult to keep by any means, but they're perhaps not as bombproof as a Giant African Millipede. If you keep the humidity right, the ventilation decent, and the diet varied, you should do well with them. Just don't expect them to shrug off neglect the way some hardier species might.
Breeding
Males can be identified by modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th body segment. They will mate readily in captivity, and females deposit eggs a few inches into the substrate. Eggs typically hatch after around 6 weeks. Leave the young with the adults — the babies will feed on adult frass (droppings), which provides essential gut bacteria they need in their early stages. Juveniles start off pale and develop their red and dark colouration as they grow and moult.
