So you're thinking about getting a new pet and you've landed on isopods. Brilliant choice - they're about the lowest-stress pet going. You don't need a huge or expensive enclosure, they feed on leaf litter and other cheap, easily-found foods, they can live happily with plants or on their own, and the long-term running costs are lower than just about any other pet. This guide walks you through everything a beginner needs: what isopods are, which species to start with, how to set up their home, and how to feed and look after them.
What Are Isopods?
Isopods are small crustaceans - commonly called woodlice or pill bugs - in the order Isopoda. That crustacean status is worth knowing: they're more closely related to crabs and shrimp than to insects, which takes the edge off the "ugh, bugs" reaction for anyone squeamish in the household.
They're decomposers, taking waste and breaking it down further, and in the wild they live in moist places: leaf litter, under wood and rocks, and other damp spots. They've colonised an astonishing range of niches worldwide - from deep forest leaf litter to caves (thriving on bird and bat droppings) and even deserts. The isopods kept as pets nearly all belong to the terrestrial suborder Oniscidea. And don't assume they're dull or always hidden: some species are bold and out on display, others are shy and a treat to spot, and many show genuinely interesting behaviour.
Choosing the Right Isopod Species
The best thing a beginner can do is start with a hardy, forgiving species. Here are the ones to look at first.
Dairy Cows (Porcellio laevis)
Dairy Cows are a brilliant first isopod: large and easy to see, forgiving of temperature and humidity swings, and fast-breeding, so you'll soon have a booming colony. Just remember that as big, prolific animals they appreciate slightly higher calcium and protein than some species.
Powders (Porcellionides pruinosus)
Available in several colours - Powder Blue, Powder Orange, Powder White - these are smaller but fast-breeding and hardy. Originally from the southern Mediterranean, they're a great addition to any terrarium or vivarium and double brilliantly as an active cleanup crew.
Armadillidium vulgare (Magic Potion, Zebra)
You might have realised the plain wild-type here is the common grey roly-poly - not much to look at. Which is exactly why the selectively-bred morphs are so popular: Magic Potion has a pale body with flashes of iridescent yellow and black spots, like something dreamed up in a fantasy world, while the Zebra (Armadillidium maculatum) wears bold black-and-white stripes. Both are hardy, forgiving of temperature, roll into a tight ball when startled, and thrive as long as humidity is kept up - excellent pets or cleanup crew.
Cubaris (Rubber Ducky, Panda King)
I won't pretend these are as easy - but they're the ones people see and fall for. Cubaris such as the famous Rubber Ducky and Panda King hail from tropical limestone-cave environments, so they need more warmth and humidity than the hardy species, plus limestone for calcium. If you're willing to put the effort in there's no reason you can't start here, but most people are better served cutting their teeth on a hardier species first and moving up to Cubaris once they're confident.
Setting Up an Isopod Enclosure
The enclosure
If you're keeping them as pets rather than purely as a cleanup crew, you'll want to actually see them - so pick something with at least one transparent side. A simple plastic tub works perfectly well to start, or for something that looks the part, a glass terrarium or small vivarium is lovely. Almost any suitable container can be adapted, but a standard terrarium or small vivarium is the easy beginner choice. Whatever you use, it needs a secure lid and good ventilation.
Substrate
Getting the substrate right matters - our substrate guide goes deep, but in short you want something that holds plenty of moisture: a suitable soil or coconut fibre enriched with sphagnum moss works well. Crucially, make sure nothing has been treated with pesticides - these are likely to harm your isopods. On top of the substrate, add a good layer of leaf litter, which serves as food, shelter and a place to breed all at once.
Humidity
Isopods breathe through gill-derived lungs on their undersides that need to stay moist to work, so humidity matters. Keep the air humid enough and, just as importantly, maintain a damp area within the enclosure (a moisture gradient) so they can choose the right level - misting as needed keeps things topped up. Hardy species are forgiving here; tropical Cubaris need it noticeably more humid.
Hides
Add cork bark and safe wood. Many woods slowly become food as they decay, and cork bark rounds or half-rounds create sheltered, higher-humidity pockets the isopods love to gather in.
Feeding Your Isopods
It's worth researching your specific species, but the basics are simple. Isopods eat decaying organic matter, supplemented with the odd vegetable and a protein source, plus calcium for their exoskeletons.
Leaf litter
The staple. As floor-dwelling decomposers, isopods do best with a constant supply of leaf litter, which they digest more easily once it has started to decay. You can collect your own, as long as you're certain nothing has been sprayed where you gathered it.
Calcium
Essential for healthy moulting. Provide it via cleaned eggshell, cuttlebone, or limestone flour - an easy permanent source left in the enclosure.
Protein
Many species appreciate a little extra protein. Fish flake is a simple, effective way to add it - but only as an occasional supplement, not a staple. Offer small amounts and remove anything uneaten before it moulds, since too much protein left sitting attracts mould and grain mites. Dried reptile foods or the odd dead insect work too.
Care, Maintenance and Common Mistakes
Day-to-day care is light. Keep the substrate damp (not waterlogged) with regular misting, keep a calcium and occasional protein source available, and remove uneaten fresh food so it doesn't mould. Aim for a temperature that suits your species - hardy beginner species like Dairy Cows and Lava isopods do well at normal room temperature, around 18-24°C, with no special heating.
The handful of mistakes that catch beginners out are easy to avoid:
- Letting it get too dry. Low humidity is the quickest way to stress isopods - keep that damp zone topped up.
- Overfeeding. Excess fresh food and protein attract mould, mites and fungus gnats. Feed modestly and clear up leftovers.
- The wrong substrate. Avoid peat-heavy or pesticide-treated mixes; go for a clean, moisture-retaining base with leaf litter.
- Too few hides. Plenty of cork bark and cover reduces stress and brings out natural behaviour.
Getting Your First Isopods
Isopods are fascinating, low-maintenance and budget-friendly - close to the perfect beginner pet. Pick a hardy species, give it the right environment and diet, and you'll have a thriving colony before long. Always buy captive-bred stock so you know your isopods are healthy and well-started, and so you're not taking from wild populations.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are isopods easy to keep as pets?
Yes - hardy species are among the easiest pets going. They need a ventilated tub, a moist substrate with leaf litter, a calcium source, occasional food, and a stable room temperature. Just a few minutes of attention a week once set up.
What's the best isopod for a beginner?
Dairy Cows (Porcellio laevis) are a top all-round choice - large, hardy and prolific. Powders and Armadillidium morphs like Magic Potion and Zebra are also excellent. Tropical Cubaris are best saved until you have some experience.
Do pet isopods need heating?
Hardy species don't - they thrive at normal UK room temperature (around 18-24°C). Tropical species like Cubaris do need supplementary heat, usually a thermostat-controlled heat mat.
What do pet isopods eat?
Mainly leaf litter and decaying wood, supplemented with small amounts of vegetables, an occasional protein source like fish flake, and a permanent calcium source such as cuttlebone or limestone.
How many isopods should I start with?
A starter group of around 10 or more (including some females) establishes a colony faster than a handful. Hardy, prolific species then build their own numbers over the following months.
Where should I buy isopods?
From a reputable seller offering captive-bred stock. Captive-bred isopods are healthier, better adapted to captivity, and an ethical choice that doesn't deplete wild populations.
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