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Black Pearl Isopods (Cubaris sp.) are named for their deep, glossy black colouration that sets them apart from most other species in the hobby. Originating from Southeast Asia, these medium-sized isopods have become sought after by collectors looking for something visually distinctive. They are reasonably straightforward to keep once established, though like most Cubaris they require stable humidity and benefit from a calcium-rich substrate. A Glimpse Origin: Southeast Asia (likely Thailand/Vietnam) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Black Pearl" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 1.5 cm Rarity: Very Rare Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 20-26°C (68-79°F) Ventilation: Low to Medium Humidity: 70-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying hardwood, vegetables Supplements: Crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone Black Pearl Isopods: Introduction Black Pearl isopods have been in our collection since mid-2024. Their uniform dark colouration makes them stand out against lighter substrates and leaf litter, which is part of their appeal for display enclosures. The "pearl" name likely refers to the smooth, slightly glossy appearance of their exoskeleton rather than any iridescence—they're simply a solid, deep black. Like other Cubaris species, Black Pearls originate from humid, limestone-rich environments in Southeast Asia. They share the typical Cubaris temperament: shy, nocturnal, and inclined to hide rather than wander about in the open. If you're after isopods that are frequently visible, this probably isn't the species for you. But if you enjoy the occasional sighting of something genuinely striking against your substrate, they deliver on that front. They're not the most challenging Cubaris to keep, but they're not bulletproof either. Consistent conditions matter, and they do best when left largely undisturbed once established. Black Pearl Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 1.5 cm in length, making them a small to medium-sized Cubaris. Their colouration is a uniform dark black across the entire body, with a smooth, slightly glossy exoskeleton. Like other Cubaris, they can conglobate (roll into a tight ball) when disturbed or threatened. Body structure follows the typical isopod form: segmented plates, seven pairs of legs, and two antennae. Juveniles are born dark and maintain their black colouration as they grow. Some individuals may appear slightly lighter immediately after moulting, darkening again as the new exoskeleton hardens. Diet Black Pearl isopods are detritivores and will work through the usual range of organic matter. Their primary food sources should be: Staples: Dried leaf litter (oak, beech, hawthorn, and similar hardwood leaves work well) Decaying hardwood—white-rotted wood is particularly good The substrate itself, if properly prepared with organic matter Supplementary foods: Vegetables such as carrot, courgette, butternut squash, and sweet potato Small amounts of protein from fish flakes, dried shrimp, or freeze-dried insects Occasional fruit in small quantities (remove uneaten portions promptly) Calcium: Calcium supplementation is essential for all Cubaris species. Provide a constant source such as crushed limestone, cuttlefish bone, or powdered eggshells. Their natural limestone cave habitats mean they have evolved with ready access to calcium, and deficiency will lead to moulting problems. Feed sparingly with fresh foods. These isopods graze continuously on leaf litter and substrate, so commercial foods and vegetables are supplements rather than the bulk of their diet. Overfeeding fresh foods can encourage mould growth, which thrives in the same humid conditions your isopods need. Black Pearl Isopods: Personality Black Pearls are shy and reclusive, typical of Cubaris species. They spend most of their time hidden beneath bark, leaf litter, or within the substrate itself. Activity increases during darkness, so you're more likely to spot them if you check the enclosure at night with a dim red light. They don't appreciate handling and will typically ball up if disturbed. This isn't a species you'll interact with directly—they're more suited to keepers who enjoy maintaining the habitat and observing from a distance. Once established in an enclosure, they tend to stay put and don't make escape attempts, but they do prefer to be left alone. When kept in appropriate conditions, they will eventually become slightly bolder and you may see them out foraging more regularly. But don't expect the confident wandering behaviour of hardier species like Porcellio scaber or Armadillidium vulgare. Black Pearl Isopods: Breeding Black Pearl isopods breed reasonably well once a colony is established, though reproduction is slower than prolific species like dairy cows or powder blues. Breeding basics: Females brood eggs in a marsupium and release fully formed juveniles Broods are typically small compared to faster-breeding genera Stable conditions are important—temperature or humidity fluctuations can disrupt breeding A starting group of at least 6-10 individuals gives you better odds of establishing a breeding population Timeline: Colony growth is gradual. Don't expect rapid population explosions. With patience and consistent husbandry, numbers will build over time. Disturbance can set back breeding progress, so resist the urge to dig through the substrate checking for juveniles constantly. Tips for success: Maintain humidity in the 70-80% range consistently Provide plenty of calcium for breeding females Include varied microhabitats (bark, wood, moss, leaf litter) so individuals can find preferred conditions Keep temperature stable within the 20-26°C range Black Pearl Isopods: Habitat Setup Enclosure: A plastic container with a secure lid works well. Ventilation should be limited—small holes or a small mesh section is sufficient. Cubaris species don't tolerate dry conditions, and excessive airflow will make humidity difficult to maintain. A 10-20 litre container is suitable for a starter colony. Substrate: This is important for Cubaris. Use a mix that retains moisture and provides calcium. A good base mix includes: Organic topsoil (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss Crushed limestone orite calcium powder Decomposed leaf litter worked into the mix Pieces of white-rotted hardwood Avoid relying on coco coir as the primary substrate component for Cubaris species. It lacks calcium, can become overly acidic, and doesn't replicate their natural limestone-rich environment. If you use any coir, mix it sparingly with limestone-heavy components. Substrate depth should be at least 5-8 cm to allow for burrowing behaviour. Moisture gradient: Keep one side of the enclosure more humid than the other. Add damp sphagnum moss to the humid side and mist this area regularly. The dry side should still have leaf litter coverage but won't need regular misting. This gradient lets the isopods regulate their own moisture needs. Décor and hides: Cork bark (flat pieces and tubes) Hardwood pieces and branches Generous leaf litter coverage across the surface Lichen-covered twigs if available Sphagnum moss clumps on the humid side Temperature: Room temperature in most UK homes (18-24°C) is fine. Avoid placing enclosures near heat sources, windows, or anywhere with temperature fluctuations. If your home regularly drops below 18°C, a heat mat on a thermostat set to around 22°C can help, but position it on one side of the enclosure to create a gradient. Suitability Black Pearl isopods sit somewhere in the middle of the difficulty scale for Cubaris. They're not as demanding as some of the rarer Thai cave species, but they're not as forgiving as Porcellio or Armadillidium species either. They're suitable for keepers who: Have some experience maintaining humid enclosures Are patient with slower-breeding species Appreciate observing rather than handling their isopods Want something visually distinctive without extreme care requirements If you're completely new to isopods, consider starting with hardier species first to develop your husbandry skills. But if you've successfully kept other isopods and want to try something from the Cubaris genus without jumping straight to the most challenging species, Black Pearls are a reasonable choice. They can work in bioactive setups, though their value and slower reproduction rate means most keepers maintain them in dedicated colonies rather than using them as disposable cleanup crew.

Experience the stunning elegance of our magnificent Black Sapphire Isopods! These extraordinary Cubaris specimens showcase the most dramatic and sophisticated coloration in the designer isopod world - deep, lustrous black tones that shimmer like precious gemstones. With their mesmerizing dark beauty, iconic "ducky" facial features, and captivating behavior, these Thai treasures represent the pinnacle of Cubaris collecting. Perfect for enthusiasts seeking the ultimate in rare, visually striking specimens. Black Sapphire Isopods: A Glimpse • Origin: Thailand (Southeast Asia cave systems)• Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Black Sapphire"• Difficulty Level: Easy• Size: Up to 18 millimeters• Rarity: Very Rare• Temperature: 75°F to 80°F• Humidity: 75% to 85%• Favourite Foods: Specialized Cubaris diet, rotting white wood, protein supplements An Overview Originating from the mysterious limestone cave systems of Thailand, Cubaris sp. "Black Sapphire" represents one of the most visually striking and sought-after varieties in the modern designer isopod world. These remarkable specimens showcase nature's artistry at its finest, displaying deep, lustrous black coloration that seems to absorb and reflect light like polished obsidian or precious black sapphires. What makes these Thai cave dwellers so extraordinary is their absolutely mesmerizing appearance combined with the beloved Cubaris charm. They retain the iconic "ducky face" that has made Cubaris species world-famous, but wrapped in sophisticated dark elegance that commands attention from across any room. Their glossy, almost metallic-looking exoskeleton creates an almost supernatural beauty that photographs simply cannot capture. These premium specimens represent years of careful selection and breeding work to establish the remarkable coloration that gives them their gemstone name. Like other cave-adapted Cubaris species, they've evolved in the high-humidity, stable conditions of Thai limestone caves, developing the specialized behaviors and requirements that make them both challenging and incredibly rewarding to maintain. Habitat Requirements Substrate Mix: • 40% premium organic potting soil or forest soil • 25% sphagnum moss for superior moisture retention • 20% composted hardwood leaf litter • 10% rotting white wood pieces (essential for Cubaris health) • 5% limestone chips or Cubaris cave stone Create a rich, humid environment that mirrors Thai cave conditions. Avoid nutritionally empty substrates - focus on materials that will actually nourish your isopods as they decompose. Basic Care Enclosure Setup: • Minimum 6-quart container for small colonies (3-5 individuals) • Secure lid with appropriate ventilation for high humidity maintenance • Deep substrate layer (4-5 inches) for natural burrowing behaviors • Multiple cork bark caves and limestone hiding spots • Extensive moss coverage throughout for microclimate creation • Strategic placement of rotting wood pieces • Shallow water feature or regular misting for humidity control Environmental Conditions: • Maintain temperature between 75°F to 80°F (Thai tropical cave conditions) • Keep humidity between 75% to 85% (essential for health and breeding) • Provide natural lighting cycle with subdued illumination • Ensure adequate ventilation while maintaining high humidity • Monitor daily as these premium specimens require consistent conditions These advanced-care isopods demand dedicated attention to recreating Thai cave environments. Their specialized requirements and high value make them suitable only for experienced Cubaris keepers. Feeding Primary Diet: • High-quality specialized Cubaris foods and supplements • Rotting white hardwood pieces (absolutely critical for nutrition) • Premium organic leaf litter (oak, beech, maple) • Fresh organic vegetables (sweet potato, carrot, squash) • Overripe organic fruits (banana, apple, pear in moderation) Essential Supplements: • High-quality protein sources 2-3 times weekly (freeze-dried shrimp, fish flakes) • Limestone or Cubaris cave stone (essential for shell development) • Specialized protein mixes designed for premium Cubaris species • Occasional treats (mushrooms, premium isopod pellets) Feeding Schedule: Feed 2-3 times per week with premium quality offerings, ensuring rotting wood and leaf materials are always available. These valuable specimens deserve the highest quality nutrition to maintain their stunning appearance and health. Remove uneaten fresh foods after 24-48 hours in humid conditions. Breeding Information Cubaris sp. "Black Sapphire" are notoriously challenging breeders that require absolutely perfect conditions and considerable patience. Their rarity is partly due to their slow reproduction and specific breeding requirements. Breeding Requirements: • Absolutely stable temperature (77-79°F ideal) • Consistent very high humidity (80-85%) • Mature, well-established colony (8+ months minimum) • Abundant limestone and calcium sources • Completely stress-free environment with minimal disturbance • Premium nutrition with regular protein supplementation • Excellent ventilation to prevent harmful gas accumulation • Patience - breeding cycles can be slow and unpredictable Successful breeding often requires multiple attempts and advanced husbandry skills. Females produce small broods of 8-15 mancae when conditions are absolutely perfect, making each successful reproduction incredibly valuable. Rarity & Collection Value These Black Sapphire specimens represent the absolute pinnacle of Cubaris collecting - combining extreme rarity, stunning beauty, and significant investment value. Their dark, gem-like appearance makes them unlike anything else in the hobby. Exceptional Considerations: • Among the rarest Cubaris varieties available • Extremely challenging breeding requirements • Each specimen represents significant collection value • Advanced husbandry skills absolutely essential • Slow reproduction increases their exclusivity • Stunning display quality that photographs cannot capture Perfect for: • Elite collectors seeking ultimate rarity • Advanced Cubaris specialists with proven success • Display collections emphasizing visual impact • Breeding projects for the most dedicated enthusiasts • Educational displays showcasing premium genetics Investment Consideration: These Black Sapphire specimens represent both exceptional beauty and significant financial investment. Their extreme rarity, challenging care requirements, and slow reproduction make them suitable only for the most dedicated and experienced collectors. Success with these specimens demonstrates mastery of advanced Cubaris husbandry. Whether you're an elite collector seeking the crown jewel of your Cubaris collection or an advanced enthusiast ready to work with the ultimate challenge species, our Black Sapphire isopods offer an unparalleled opportunity. These Thai cave treasures combine otherworldly beauty, extreme rarity, and incredible prestige, representing the absolute summit of designer isopod collecting and the ultimate achievement for serious Cubaris specialists!

Cubaris sp. "Blind Saturn" is a cave-adapted isopod from Southeast Asia, notable for its lack of functional eyes and pale, unpigmented appearance - characteristics that have evolved from generations spent in complete darkness. These are specialist animals for keepers who appreciate the unusual rather than the colourful. They won't win any beauty contests, but their adaptations to underground life make them genuinely interesting specimens. A Glimpse Origin: Southeast Asia (Thailand/Malaysia - cave systems) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Blind Saturn" Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: 10-15mm Rarity: Rare Lifespan: 2-3 years Temperature: 23-26°C (73-79°F) Ventilation: Low-Medium Humidity: 70-90% Favourite food: Rotting white wood, decaying leaves, protein supplements Supplements: Cuttlefish bone, limestone, dried shrimp Blind Saturn Isopods: Introduction Blind Saturn isopods are true troglobites - animals that have evolved specifically for cave life. Found in deep underground cave systems in Southeast Asia, they've adapted to environments with no light, stable temperatures, and high humidity. Over time, they've lost their need for functional eyes and pigmentation, resulting in their distinctive ghostly appearance. This isn't a species you buy for visual appeal. They're pale, eyeless, and will spend most of their time hidden in substrate or under cover. But for keepers interested in cave-adapted invertebrates, they offer something genuinely different from the brightly coloured Cubaris varieties flooding the market. Information on this species in the hobby is limited. They're not widely kept, and much of what we know comes from general cave Cubaris care principles rather than species-specific documentation. Blind Saturn Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 10-15mm - on the smaller side for Cubaris. Pale, ghostly appearance due to lack of pigmentation - colours range from translucent white to cream. Eyes are reduced or absent - a classic adaptation to perpetual darkness. Soft, oval-shaped bodies typical of the Cubaris genus. They retain the ability to conglobate (roll into a ball) when disturbed. Their lack of colouration isn't a defect - it's an energy-saving adaptation. In complete darkness, pigmentation serves no purpose, so cave species have evolved without it. Blind Saturn Isopods: Diet Like other Cubaris, Blind Saturn isopods are detritivores that feed primarily on decaying organic matter. Decaying wood - particularly white-rotted softwood - should be a staple. Include pieces in the enclosure at all times. Leaf litter from hardwood trees (oak, beech, birch) provides ongoing nutrition and should always be available. Vegetables like carrot, sweet potato, and squash can be offered occasionally. Protein is important - offer dried shrimp, fish flakes, or gammarus shrimp once or twice weekly. Calcium via cuttlefish bone or limestone chunks supports healthy moulting. Given their cave origins, limestone is particularly appropriate. Blind Saturn Isopods: Behaviour Blind Saturn isopods are secretive, even by Cubaris standards. Without functional eyes, they navigate entirely by other senses and show no response to light cycles. Expect them to spend the vast majority of their time buried in substrate or hidden under cover. They're nocturnal by habit (though "nocturnal" becomes meaningless when you've evolved in perpetual darkness), and you're unlikely to see much surface activity. If you want isopods you can observe regularly, this isn't the species for you. They're sensitive to environmental changes. Cave environments are remarkably stable - temperature, humidity, and conditions vary little throughout the year. Captive Blind Saturn isopods expect similar consistency. Fluctuations that other species might tolerate can stress these animals. Blind Saturn Isopods: Breeding Limited information is available on breeding rates for this species. Like most cave-adapted Cubaris, expect slow reproduction. Cave environments typically support lower population densities than surface habitats, and species that evolved there tend to have correspondingly slower life histories. Patience is essential. Stable conditions - consistent temperature, humidity, and food supply - will support breeding better than any specific triggers. Blind Saturn Isopods: Habitat A 6-litre container works for a starter colony. These aren't particularly active isopods, so large enclosures aren't necessary. Temperature: 23-26°C (73-79°F). Stability matters more than hitting exact numbers. Avoid temperature swings - cave environments are remarkably constant, and these isopods expect the same. Humidity: 70-90%. These are humidity-loving animals that evolved in damp cave systems. The enclosure should be consistently moist, though not waterlogged. Ventilation: Low to medium. They need some airflow to prevent mould, but not so much that humidity drops. Balance is key. Light: Unnecessary. These isopods have no use for light and may actually prefer darker conditions. Keep the enclosure away from direct light. Substrate depth: 3-4 inches minimum. They're burrowers and need sufficient depth to exhibit natural behaviour. Hides: Cork bark, wood pieces, and moss provide essential cover. Multiple hiding spots help them feel secure. Blind Saturn Isopods: Substrate Mix Create a soil-based mix suitable for cave Cubaris: Base layer (60%): Organic topsoil (pesticide-free) Aged leaf mould or forest humus Organic matter (25%): White-rotted wood pieces (essential - both nutrition and habitat) Decomposing hardwood leaves Sphagnum moss for moisture retention Mineral content (15%): Limestone pieces or powder (mimics their cave environment) Calcium-rich additives Do not use coco coir as the primary substrate - soil-based mixes better replicate their natural cave floor conditions. Keep the substrate consistently moist throughout - these aren't species that benefit from dry areas. The entire enclosure should feel damp, like a wrung-out sponge. Who Are Blind Saturn Isopods Suited For? Blind Saturn isopods are specialist animals for a specific type of keeper: Suited for: Experienced Cubaris keepers who can maintain stable, high-humidity environments Those interested in cave-adapted invertebrates and troglobitic species Keepers who appreciate unusual biology over visual appeal Patient hobbyists - these aren't fast breeders or active display animals Not suited for: Beginners to isopod keeping Anyone wanting colourful, visible pets Keepers who struggle to maintain consistent humidity Those looking for bioactive clean-up crews (they won't thrive in typical vivarium conditions) If you're drawn to the unusual and can provide stable cave-like conditions, Blind Saturn isopods offer something genuinely different. Just don't expect to see much of them.

Like most other Porcellio species, the Bolivari Lemonade Isopods prefer a less moist environment in comparison to other isopods. These fascinating isopods originate in eastern Spain. They are becoming very popular for their unique lemon and yellow hues; thus, quality Bolivari Lemonade Isopods are some of the most in-demand large species right now. These isopods make exotic pets. They breed readily in a basic isopod setup. They make a good option for beginners as well as seasoned terrarium enthusiasts. They are mostly found in caves with arid environments.  A Glimpse Origin: Eastern Spain Scientific Name: Porcellio bolivari "Lemonade" Difficulty Level: Medium Size: 3cm Rarity: Rare Temperature: 70°F to 80℉ Humidity: 50% to 70% Favorite Foods: Lichens, Banana Leaf, Dead Wood, Cuttlebone An Overview Bolivari Lemonade Isopods are quite rare in the uK hobby still at this time. These isopods are well-known to be a great addition to terrarium setups. They are low-maintenance pets that thrive in a less moist environment.    These natives to Spain are characterized by their completely yellow color variation, flat and broad bodies. They have a lemonade-like colouration with strong yellow highlights.    The best thing about the these Isopods is that they decompose organic matter. They can be a perfect addition for maintenance of bioactive terrariums.    They cannot tolerate stale and musty air. They should only be added to terrariums with generous ventilation areas.   These isopods feed on many different types of food, such as feeding foliage, dead wood, cuttlebone, pollen, beetle jelly, etc. They can make a captivating breed for your collection. Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to Bolivari Lemonade Isopods. Use forest moss and feeding foliage as a ground substrate for your Bolivari Lemonade Isopods. You can use a terrarium for housing Bolivari Lemonade Isopods. Keep the temperature of the container within 70°F to 80℉. Add curved cork bark works into the terrarium to give Bolivari Lemonade Isopods something to cling to. Humidity should be no more than 50 to 70%. Avoid keeping the enclosure under direct sunlight. Bolivari Lemonade Isopods: Feeding Bolivari Lemonade Isopods are primarily detrivores. These isopods love to consume decaying wood and calcium sources such as limestone and cuttlefish bone. They are fond of forest materials such as leaf litter. They also consume cocoa leaves, Indian almond leaves, and dandelion flowers. They even feed on vegetables, salads, lichens, and banana leaves. Appearance And Behavior They are large and with elongated uropods.  Their unique appearance looks similar to large trilobites. They can make a unique highlight of your terrarium setup. These isopods come in remarkable combinations of colors and even patterns. These isopods prefer the humid mossy corner of a terrarium for recurring molting process. They can maintain a balanced ecosystem within a terrarium by their contribution to soil health and the nutrient cycle. Habitat Bolivari Lemonade Isopods prefer a less moist environment, but you will have to maintain proper ventilation for them to thrive. These classic large Spanish isopods require plenty of airflow. They are extraordinary creatures that can add a touch of natural beauty to any terrarium. These skeleton-like isopods will slowly die off in a humid environment. Substrate Mix You can add forest hummus and flake soil to the ground substrate mix. You can use a natural substrate that includes lime granulate, dead wood, shell grit, feeding foliage, and forest moss. The ground substrate for Bolivari Lemonade Isopods can also include Sphagnum moss and natural moss.

A must-have supplement for any isopod or springtail keeper. Our 50g bag of 100% pure brewer's yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) is a concentrated source of protein, B-vitamins, essential amino acids, and minerals including chromium, selenium, and zinc. Whether you're growing springtail cultures or boosting the nutrition of your isopod colonies, brewer's yeast is one of the most versatile and cost-effective foods you can keep on your shelf. A little goes a long way — a 50g bag will last most keepers several months. Why Brewer's Yeast? Brewer's yeast is one of the most protein-dense supplements available for invertebrates. The high protein and amino acid content supports healthy growth, moulting, and reproduction, while the B-vitamin complex helps to maintain strong immune function and overall vitality. The enzymes naturally present in brewer's yeast also aid digestion, helping your invertebrates break down and absorb nutrients more efficiently from their regular diet. The Go-To Springtail Food If you culture springtails, brewer's yeast is widely regarded as the single best food you can use. Just a tiny pinch sprinkled onto your charcoal, clay, or LECA substrate is enough to sustain a thriving culture for days. The yeast develops a light layer of mould in the humid culture environment, which the springtails feed on readily. It's clean, easy to use, and far less likely to attract mites or foul your cultures compared to alternatives like fish flakes or fruit scraps. Brewer's yeast works brilliantly across all commonly cultured springtail species, including: Folsomia candida (Temperate White Springtails) – The most widely kept species in the hobby. Brewer's yeast is the number one recommended food for culturing these on charcoal or clay substrates, producing rapid population growth with minimal maintenance. Sinella curviseta (Pink Springtails) – Another popular species that thrives on a brewer's yeast diet, responding well to regular light dustings in humid cultures. Tomocerus sp. (Silver/Grey Springtails) – These larger springtails feed readily on yeast and benefit from its nutritional profile, particularly when cultured on coconut chip or similar substrates. Tropical springtail species – Whether you keep blue, orange, or other tropical varieties, brewer's yeast is an excellent staple food that supports healthy cultures across the board. A Valuable Isopod Supplement For isopods, brewer's yeast works best as a supplementary food alongside leaf litter, calcium, and other protein sources. The concentrated protein and mineral content makes it particularly useful for: Porcellio & Porcellionides – Active, protein-hungry species like P. scaber, P. laevis (Dairy Cow), P. ornatus, and Porcellionides pruinosus (Powder Orange, Powder Blue) will readily consume brewer's yeast. These fast-breeding genera benefit from the extra protein to fuel their high energy levels and rapid reproduction. Armadillidium – Species like A. vulgare, A. maculatum (Zebra), A. klugii (Clown), and A. gestroi appreciate brewer's yeast as part of a varied diet. The mineral content supports healthy exoskeleton development through successive moults. Cubaris – Slower-breeding species like Rubber Ducky, Panda King, and other Cubaris varieties can benefit from the nutritional boost that brewer's yeast provides, supporting colony health and breeding success where every brood matters. Trichorhina (Dwarf White/Dwarf Purple) – These tiny, prolific species respond well to brewer's yeast as a food source and are often kept alongside springtails in bioactive setups. Brewer's yeast is also suitable for other invertebrates including millipedes, cockroaches, and beetles. How to Use For springtail cultures: Sprinkle a very small pinch onto your substrate every 2–4 days, or when the previous feeding has been consumed. Less is more — overfeeding can cause mould overgrowth and reduce oxygen in sealed cultures. For isopods: Lightly dust a small amount into the enclosure as an occasional supplement alongside their regular diet of leaf litter, vegetables, and calcium. Remove any uneaten food after 48 hours to prevent unwanted mould. What You Get 50g of 100% pure brewer's yeast. No additives, no fillers — just brewer's yeast.

The Burmese Beauty is a medium-sized millipede with striking olive green and orange banding that makes it one of the more attractive species in the hobby. Despite the name suggesting Myanmar, this species actually originates from Tanzania—the common name is a quirk of the trade. It's an active, hardy species that spends plenty of time on the surface, making it more visible than many millipedes that stay buried. At £6 per individual, it's an affordable entry point into millipede keeping with genuine visual appeal. Species Information Scientific name: Spirostreptus sp. 1 (also listed as Spirostreptidae sp. 1) Common names: Burmese Beauty Millipede, Olive Banded Millipede, Globular Millipede, Tanzania Olive Millipede Origin: Tanzania (despite the "Burmese" name) Adult size: 12–15cm (approximately 5–6 inches) Lifespan: Up to 5 years with proper care Difficulty: Easy—suitable for beginners Taxonomy Note This species hasn't been formally classified, hence the "sp. 1" designation. The hobby uses numbered species to differentiate between unidentified Spirostreptus millipedes from different localities. "Burmese Beauty" is a trade name that's stuck despite the species originating from East African dry savanna regions, not Myanmar. You may also see it sold as "Olive Banded Millipede" or "Tanzania Globular Millipede." Appearance Burmese Beauty Millipedes are genuinely attractive. Their bodies feature wide olive green segments alternating with thin black bands. Along each black band runs an extremely thin stripe of metallic coppery iridescence that shimmers in the light—it's subtle but beautiful when you notice it. The legs and antennae are beige, providing further contrast. Juveniles are more orange in colour, developing the characteristic olive green and orange "creamsicle" banding as they mature. Adults reach 12–15cm (some sources report up to 15cm), making them a medium-sized species—substantial enough to appreciate but not as large as the giant African species. One distinctive behaviour: they coil three-dimensionally into a globe shape rather than the flat disc-shaped coil of many millipedes. This "globular" coiling is characteristic of the species and gives rise to one of its alternative common names. Behaviour This is an active species that spends considerable time on the surface, making it more rewarding to observe than many millipedes that stay buried: Surface active: Regularly seen exploring above the substrate, particularly during dawn, dusk, and night Climbers: They enjoy climbing and will use branches and bark in their enclosure Not excessively photosensitive: Adults tolerate light better than many species, though they're primarily crepuscular/nocturnal Burrowing: Will burrow into substrate, especially during moulting Docile: Generally calm and handleable, though they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed Their willingness to be visible makes them excellent display animals. You'll actually see these millipedes rather than just knowing they're somewhere in the substrate. Defence Mechanisms Like all millipedes, Burmese Beauties can secrete defensive chemicals (benzoquinones) when stressed. The secretion is a brown/yellow fluid that can irritate skin and eyes. This species can secrete quite a lot for its size when stressed. Precautions: Handle calmly and minimise stress Wash hands thoroughly after handling Don't touch your face or eyes before washing The secretion isn't dangerous but can cause irritation They cannot bite—millipedes have no biting mouthparts capable of harming humans. Enclosure Setup Enclosure Size For adults or a group, provide: Minimum 30cm × 20cm × 40cm (length × width × height) Larger is better—they're active and will use the space Secure lid essential—millipedes are surprisingly strong Up to 10 millipedes can be housed in a 40cm × 40cm × 50cm enclosure Substrate Deep, nutrient-rich substrate is essential—millipedes eat it as their primary food source. Provide at least 10–12cm depth (some keepers recommend up to 20cm). This depth is important for: Burrowing and moulting (millipedes moult underground) Maintaining stable humidity and temperature Providing constant food source Substrate recipe (recommended mix): 50% forest humus (top layer of soil from under deciduous trees) 20% aged leaf litter (brown, partially decomposed leaves) 20% shredded decaying hardwood (should crumble easily between fingers) 5% play sand or bird grit (NOT builder's sand) 5% ground cuttlebone or powite garden limestone Critical: Never use anything from pine or other coniferous trees—the resins are harmful to millipedes. Layer the substrate: compact the bottom 7–8cm slightly, then add the remaining 4–5cm more loosely on top. Décor Climbing branches: Provide thick branches—they're not expert climbers but enjoy moving off the ground Cork bark: Hides and climbing surfaces Leaf litter: Layer on substrate surface Moss and lichen: On branches and surfaces—they'll graze on these Ventilation Cross-ventilation is important to prevent mould buildup. Ensure adequate airflow while maintaining humidity—mesh-covered vents on opposite sides work well. Temperature Range: 22–26°C (72–79°F) Optimal: 24°C Room temperature: Average UK room temperature (around 20°C) is acceptable, though they'll be more active and breed better at 22–24°C Important: DO NOT use heat mats under the substrate. Millipedes burrow to escape unfavourable conditions—a heat mat underneath traps them between heat and dry surface conditions. If heating is needed, use overhead heating or heat mats on enclosure sides. Humidity Range: 65–80% Substrate: Moist to the touch but not waterlogged Maintenance: Regular misting, leaf litter and moss help retain moisture Avoid: Waterlogging and standing water in substrate This species is relatively hardy regarding humidity and has good resistance to "foot rot" (a bacterial condition affecting millipede legs in overly wet conditions). However, proper moisture levels should still be maintained. Diet Millipedes are detritivores—they eat decaying organic matter. The substrate itself forms the bulk of their diet, which is why nutrient-rich substrate is essential. Primary diet (from substrate): Decaying hardwood Decomposed leaf litter Organic matter in forest humus Supplementary fresh foods: Cucumber (favourite) Melon Banana Cooked sweetcorn Oranges Other soft fruits and vegetables Additional foods: Moss and lichen (place on branches—they'll graze on it) Flake soil Protein supplements occasionally (fish flakes, dried shrimp) Calcium: Essential for exoskeleton health. Provide cuttlebone, crushed eggshells, or oyster shells. Ground limestone can be mixed into substrate. Using a small ceramic dish as a designated feeding spot helps—millipedes will learn where fresh food appears. Breeding Burmese Beauty Millipedes breed readily in captivity when their basic needs are met: Sexing: Males have modified legs (gonopods) on the 7th segment, making this segment noticeably thicker than females Mating: Face-to-face, often remaining coupled for extended periods Eggs: Deposited in the substrate Young: Leave with adults—juveniles benefit from eating adult faecal pellets, which contain beneficial gut bacteria Maturity: Sexual maturity around 12–13cm (approximately 5 inches) Growth rate: Slow-growing but breeds readily once established They're considered avid breeders when conditions are right. Some keepers report that a drying phase may help trigger breeding, mimicking the distinct rainy/dry seasons of their Tanzanian habitat. Handling Burmese Beauties are generally handleable but can be stress-prone: Handle gently and minimise duration Support their body—don't let them dangle Be aware they may secrete defensive fluid if stressed Wash hands after handling They may "pinch" slightly with their legs but cannot bite Cohabitation Can be housed with: Other Burmese Beauties: Social species, does well in groups Isopods: Good cleanup crew companions—avoid aggressively prolific species like Porcellionides pruinosus or Porcellio laevis that might disturb moulting millipedes; Cubaris and similar species work well Springtails: Beneficial for mould control Care Summary Temperature: 22–26°C (room temperature acceptable) Humidity: 65–80% Substrate: Deep (10–20cm), nutrient-rich mix of humus, leaf litter, decaying wood, sand, calcium Diet: Substrate organic matter, supplemented with fruits, vegetables, calcium Enclosure: Minimum 30×20×40cm with climbing branches and good ventilation Heating: Never underneath substrate—side or overhead only if needed Lifespan: Up to 5 years Difficulty: Easy—good beginner species Pricing 1 millipede: £6 5 millipedes: £25 10 millipedes: £40 Who Are They For? Burmese Beauty Millipedes suit: Beginners: Hardy, forgiving, and affordable—excellent first millipede Display keepers: Active and visible with attractive colouration Breeders: Breeds readily in captivity Anyone wanting an interesting invertebrate: More engaging than many "pet hole" species They're a genuinely good species for anyone interested in millipedes. The combination of attractive appearance, visible activity levels, hardy nature, and affordable price makes them one of the better entry points into millipede keeping. They're not as large as the giant African species, but their willingness to be seen and their striking olive-and-orange colouration more than compensates.

A Glimpse Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Common Name: Cappu Cream Family: Armadillidae Origin: Thailand Adult Size: Up to approximately 20 mm Difficulty: Medium Temperature: 24–29°C Humidity: 75–85% Diet: Leaf litter, rotting wood, vegetables, protein supplements, moss, lichen Supplements: Cuttlebone or crushed limestone for calcium — essential for Cubaris Cappu Cream: Overview Cappu Cream is one of a growing number of coffee-themed Cubaris sp. morphs originating from Thailand. As with many of these newer trade-named varieties, specific documentation on this exact morph is limited — "Cappu Cream" doesn't appear widely in keeping databases or care guides as a separately established variety. What we can say is that it belongs to the broader group of Thai Cubaris that also includes Cappuccino, Latte, and similar coffee-inspired morphs, and its care requirements follow established Cubaris sp. husbandry. That's worth being upfront about. If you're buying these expecting to find a detailed species-specific care sheet online, you won't find one. What you will find is solid, well-tested care information for Thai Cubaris as a group, and that's what this description is based on. Like other Cubaris from Thailand, these isopods originate from limestone cave environments and the surrounding tropical forest floor. They're adapted to warm, humid conditions with access to calcium-rich substrates — understanding this natural habitat is the key to keeping them successfully. Enclosure A sealed plastic container (such as a 6-litre clip-lock box) with ventilation holes works well for a starter culture of 5. This is one of those setups where the balance between humidity retention and airflow matters — you need both. Drill or melt small ventilation holes in the lid or upper sides, but not so many that the enclosure dries out quickly. Cross-ventilation (holes on opposite sides) helps prevent stagnant air, which is a common cause of colony crashes in Cubaris. As the colony grows, move up to a larger container. There's no rush with Cubaris — they don't breed explosively, so a small starting enclosure won't become overcrowded for a long time. Substrate and Setup Provide a deep substrate layer — at least 7–8 cm. Cubaris like to burrow, and substrate depth gives them the humidity gradient they need (damper at the bottom, drier at the surface). Use organic topsoil mixed with crumbled white rotten hardwood and leaf litter. Oak and beech leaves work well. The substrate and leaf litter form a significant part of their diet, so quality matters. Limestone is important. Thai Cubaris originate from karst cave systems where limestone is everywhere. Adding pieces of limestone, crushed oyster shell, or cuttlebone to the enclosure provides both calcium for moulting and mimics their natural environment. Many keepers report that Cubaris are noticeably more settled and breed better when limestone is present — it's not just a supplement, it's habitat enrichment. Create a moisture gradient across the enclosure: keep one end consistently damp (a patch of sphagnum moss works well for this) and allow the other end to stay drier. This lets the isopods choose their preferred humidity level at any given time. Add cork bark pieces for hides. Cubaris appreciate enclosed spaces to retreat into, and cork bark is light, natural, and holds moisture well. Temperature and Humidity 24–29°C is the target range. These are tropical isopods that need warmth to thrive and breed. In a UK house, you'll likely need a heat mat on a thermostat during cooler months. Room temperature in summer may be sufficient depending on your home. Humidity should stay between 75–85%. The sealed container setup helps maintain this — mist lightly when the surface starts to look dry, but don't waterlog the substrate. Soggy conditions are as dangerous as dry ones for Cubaris. The moisture gradient mentioned above is your best tool here. Ventilation matters alongside humidity. Stagnant, humid air encourages mould and bacterial growth that can wipe out a colony. The goal is humid but not stuffy. Diet The substrate itself (leaf litter and rotting wood) is the primary food source — keep it well stocked and replenished as it breaks down. Supplement with: Vegetables: Cucumber, courgette, sweet potato, carrot — offered in small amounts Protein: Dried shrimp, fish flakes, or freeze-dried bloodworm — Cubaris are noticeably more protein-hungry than many other isopod genera. Offer protein once or twice a week Calcium: Cuttlebone left permanently in the enclosure, or crushed limestone/oyster shell mixed into the substrate Moss and lichen: Eaten and appreciated Remove uneaten fresh food within a day to prevent mould. In a warm, humid Cubaris enclosure, food spoils quickly. Breeding Cubaris as a genus breed more slowly than Porcellio or Porcellionides species. Expect smaller broods, longer intervals between them, and slower growth to maturity. This is normal — it's why Cubaris morphs tend to be more expensive than common isopod species, and it's why starting with 5 gives you a reasonable foundation without expecting overnight colony growth. Consistent warmth, humidity, and good nutrition are the keys to breeding success. Cubaris that are stressed, too cold, or underfed will simply stop reproducing. The most common mistake is inconsistency — allowing conditions to fluctuate significantly between checks. Patience is genuinely the main requirement. A healthy colony will grow, but on Cubaris time, not Porcellio time. What to Expect at £90 At £90 for 5, Cappu Cream sits in the premium Cubaris price range alongside other rare Thai morphs. For that investment, it's worth being realistic about what you're getting into. If you've successfully kept other Cubaris species — Cappuccino, Rubber Ducky, Panda King, or similar — you already understand the care requirements and the pace of colony growth, and Cappu Cream won't present any surprises. The care is fundamentally the same. If Cubaris is new to you, these aren't the ideal starting point. The combination of specific environmental needs (warmth, humidity, ventilation balance, limestone) and slow breeding means mistakes are expensive and slow to recover from. Consider starting with a more established and less costly Cubaris morph to learn the genus first, then move to rarer varieties once you're confident in your setup. A Note on Naming The isopod hobby has a lot of coffee-themed Cubaris morphs — Cappuccino, Latte, Cappu Cream, and others. These are trade names rather than scientific classifications, and the boundaries between them aren't always clearly defined. If you're collecting multiple coffee-themed morphs, it's worth keeping them in separate enclosures to maintain the integrity of each line, even if they look similar. Crossbreeding between morphs can produce offspring that don't reliably express either parent's colouration.

Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" is a Thai Cubaris species named for its coffee-toned colouration. The exact shade varies between populations and individuals—some display light brown and cream tones like milky coffee, while others show brighter orange with dark purple, more reminiscent of espresso. Either way, the colour palette is distinctive and attractive. They're larger than many Cubaris species, somewhat hardier than their more demanding relatives, and make engaging display pets for keepers ready to move beyond beginner species. A Glimpse Origin: Thailand, Southeast Asia (captive-bred) Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Cappuccino" Common Names: Cappuccino Isopod Maintenance required: Medium Average Size: Up to 22mm (approximately 2cm) Rarity: High Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F) Ventilation: Medium Humidity: 60-80% Favorite food: Leaf litter, decaying wood, vegetables Supplements: Calcium (limestone preferred), protein twice weekly Cappuccino Isopods: Introduction Cappuccino isopods emerged from the Thai Cubaris explosion that followed the discovery of Rubber Ducky isopods in limestone caves around 2017. Since then, numerous Cubaris species and morphs have entered the hobby, with Cappuccinos becoming one of the more sought-after varieties. Their name derives from their colouration, which evokes coffee drinks—though descriptions vary. Some sources describe light brown and cream tones (latte-like), while others emphasise bright orange with deep purple (more like a darker roast). This variation may reflect different breeding lines or simply the range of natural variation within the species. Either interpretation produces attractive isopods. Compared to some finicky Cubaris species, Cappuccinos are described as "hardier" and more "resilient to changes in humidity and temperature." They're not beginner isopods—they still require consistent conditions and more attention than Armadillidium or Porcellio—but they're a reasonable step up for keepers with some experience who want to try Cubaris without jumping straight to the most demanding species. Cappuccino Isopods: Physical Traits and Characteristics Adults reach approximately 22mm—larger than many Cubaris species Rounded body shape with characteristic Cubaris "duck face" Colouration varies: light brown/tan/cream OR bright orange with dark purple White "skirt" around darker body in some descriptions Some individuals display white "ducky face" with coloured "lips" Small eyes on top of head Short legs, four sets of spiracles for respiration Can roll into defensive ball (conglobation) Can make clicking sounds when threatened The size is notable—at up to 22mm, they're on the larger end for Cubaris, making them easier to observe than smaller species. The colour pattern, whatever variation you receive, is distinctive and makes them visually appealing display animals. Behaviour Cappuccino isopods display typical Cubaris behaviour patterns with some distinctions. Activity patterns: Primarily nocturnal—most active at night when they emerge to feed. You'll see occasional daytime sightings, especially as colony numbers increase, but expect them to be most visible after lights go out. Temperament: Described as "fairly passive" and less easily spooked than some Cubaris species. They're "gentle" and "docile"—good characteristics for observation and handling. Burrowing: They burrow for moisture control and security. This differs from some surface-dwelling species—provide adequate substrate depth (10-15cm minimum) to accommodate this behaviour. Social: Gregarious. They do well in groups and benefit from colony living. Purchase in groups for best establishment success. Shyness: Like many Cubaris, they're shy and reclusive, particularly when newly introduced. As one source notes: "Unless you are up for a little while after the lights go out, you likely will not see these isopods out and about during the day very much." Higher numbers in the colony lead to more visible activity. Diet Standard Cubaris dietary requirements with emphasis on calcium. Primary foods: Leaf litter (essential staple—always available in abundance) Decaying white-rotted wood (always available) Forest moss Lichen Supplementary foods: Vegetables: squash, radishes, carrots, other organic vegetables Fruits: various (feed in moderation) Commercial isopod foods (Repashy, powdered diets) Fish flakes Dog food (occasionally) Protein: Provide protein twice weekly: Freeze-dried minnows Dried shrimp Fish pellets Dried insects Feed protein on the drier side of the enclosure as it can spoil quickly in humid conditions and attract pests. Calcium (particularly important): Cappuccinos, like many Thai Cubaris, originate from limestone cave environments and are particularly fond of calcium sources: Cuttlebone (quickly devoured when offered) Limestone chunks "Texas Holy Rock" (reported favourite) Crushed eggshells Calcium carbonate powder in substrate Providing limestone mimics their natural cave habitat and supports healthy exoskeleton development. Feeding notes: Avoid overfeeding Remove uneaten fresh foods before spoiling Ensure no pesticide residue on vegetables Good nutrition promotes faster breeding and healthier populations Cappuccino Isopods: Breeding Cappuccinos breed reliably once established, though they're not the fastest reproducers. Breeding characteristics: Slow to establish—may take several months before young appear Once established, breed "prolifically" and reliably Moderate reproduction rate overall Females carry eggs in brood pouch (marsupium) Reality check: One experienced source states breeding difficulty as "Advanced," while others say "Medium" or "Moderate." The consensus is that they're slower to establish than many species but become reliable producers once the colony matures. Patience is required—don't expect rapid population growth initially. Breeding success factors: Stable temperature (high 70s to low 80s°F / 24-28°C) Consistent high humidity (60-80%) Adequate calcium supply Deep substrate for burrowing Abundant food (leaf litter, decaying wood) Minimal disturbance during establishment Avoid large environmental swings Cappuccino Isopods: Habitat Setup Cappuccinos require more attention to setup than beginner species but are manageable for intermediate keepers. Enclosure: Plastic containers or terrariums work well Minimal air holes (to maintain humidity) Shoebox-sized container (approximately 6 quart / 3 gallon minimum) suitable for starter colonies Fair ventilation required—not sealed, but limited holes Ventilation: Medium. They need some airflow but not so much that humidity drops. Balance is key—too much ventilation dries them out, too little causes stagnation. Substrate: Deep substrate is important for their burrowing behaviour: Recommended mix: Organic topsoil base (pesticide-free) Sphagnum peat moss (milled and long-fibre) Forest humus Fine tree fern fibre Decaying hardwood leaf litter (oak, willow) Orchid bark Depth: Minimum 10-15cm (4-6 inches). Deeper substrates retain moisture longer and support burrowing behaviour. Humidity: 60-80%—high but not excessive: Keep substrate mostly moist but not soggy Some sources recommend "moist side and slightly less moist side" rather than dramatic wet/dry gradient Never let substrate get anywhere close to dry Mist every few days with dechlorinated water Cork bark pieces help retain humidity Critical note: Too much humidity and dampness can cause moulting issues and sudden die-offs. Moist, not wet, is the goal. Temperature: 21-28°C (70-82°F)—comfortable room temperature to slightly warm: High 70s to low 80s°F is the comfort zone Avoid large temperature swings (can be fatal) Room temperature in heated UK homes generally works Stable conditions more important than hitting exact numbers Décor: Cork bark pieces (they may prefer lotus pods as hideouts) Leaf litter (food and cover) Decaying wood pieces Moss patches Limestone chunks (calcium source and habitat enrichment) Setup philosophy: Aim for half soil, half decaying wood components. Provide plenty of hiding spots and natural botanical items that simulate their wild habitat—this promotes natural behaviours like eating and breeding. Bioactive Use Cappuccinos can work in bioactive setups but have limitations. Strengths: Help reduce organic waste buildup Aid in nutrient recycling Add visual interest (nocturnal activity) Larger size makes them visible when active Limitations: Not the best bioactive cleaners—better species exist for that purpose Shy and nocturnal—you won't see them working during the day Require specific conditions that may not match all bioactive setups Slow breeding means population recovery takes time if predation occurs Best use: Cappuccinos are better suited as display pets than utilitarian cleanup crews. If you want efficient bioactive processing, consider Porcellio or faster-breeding species. Keep Cappuccinos because you enjoy observing them, not primarily for their cleanup utility. Suitable applications: Tropical terrariums where conditions match their needs Display colonies where aesthetics matter Vivariums with compatible inhabitants Suitability Cappuccinos suit intermediate keepers wanting attractive Cubaris without extreme difficulty. Good choice for: Keepers with some isopod experience ready to try Cubaris Those wanting larger, more observable Cubaris Display colony enthusiasts Keepers who can maintain consistent conditions Those attracted to coffee-toned colouration Less suited for: Complete beginners (gain experience with hardier species first) Those wanting fast-breeding cleanup crews Keepers unable to maintain stable humidity/temperature Those expecting highly visible daytime activity Care level: They're described as "hardier" and more "resilient" than some Cubaris, but still require consistent conditions without large environmental swings. One source warns: "If you have little to no experience with isopods, we strongly urge you to not buy these until you have some experience and a firm foundation with isopod husbandry." The key challenges are: maintaining stable conditions (temperature/humidity swings can be fatal), patience during slow establishment period, and accepting their nocturnal/shy nature. Value: At £55 for 5, £105 for 10, or £200 for 20, Cappuccinos are moderately priced for Cubaris—less expensive than ultra-rare species but more than beginner isopods. The price reflects their desirability, attractive appearance, and the care required to maintain breeding colonies. For keepers wanting an accessible entry point into "designer" Cubaris, they represent reasonable value. What to expect: Expect attractive isopods with coffee-toned colouration that varies between cream/brown and orange/purple depending on the line. Expect them to be primarily nocturnal—you'll see them most after lights go out, with occasional daytime sightings increasing as colony numbers grow. Expect shy behaviour initially, becoming bolder as the colony establishes. Expect slow breeding at first, accelerating once the colony matures (this may take months). Expect to maintain consistent humidity and temperature without major swings. Expect larger Cubaris (up to 22mm) that are easier to observe than smaller species. For keepers who enjoyed success with beginner species and want to explore the diverse world of Thai Cubaris, Cappuccinos offer an appealing combination: attractive appearance, reasonable (not extreme) care requirements, and the engaging behaviours that make Cubaris popular. They're not the easiest isopods, but they reward patient keepers who provide appropriate conditions with reliably breeding colonies of genuinely attractive animals.

Caramel Cream Isopods are small-sized are small-sized species native to Thailand. Naturally occurring in the tropical Asian region, the Caramel Cream Isopods need high temperatures to thrive. They have a unique creamy and caramel colour, perfect for any terrarium setup. The capsule-shaped Caramel Cream Isopods have calm behaviour and are easy to care for beginners. The Caramel Cream Isopods have a less aggressive nature compared to other isopods. These Cubaris sp isopods will pose no danger to other animals in a terrarium setup.  A Glimpse Origin: Thailand Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. Difficulty: Low Rarity: Very rare Temperature: 22 to 28℃ Size: 2 to 3 cm Humidity: 60 to 80% Favourable Foods: Crushed Eggs Shells, Dry Leaves An Overview Caramel Cream Isopods make interesting and beloved pets because they are very rare to find. These Caramel Cream Isopods are Thailand species characterized by their white and striped appearance. The Caramel Cream Isopods have a capsule-like body shape with a segmented armor.    These tropical Asian origin natives have a somewhat calm and active nature. These elegant Caramel Cream Isopods are initially transparent and acquire their characteristic colouration over time. These easy-to-keep Cubaris sp isopods are small-sized species that can grow from 2 to 3 cm in size.    Being a mediumly humid environment thrivers, the Caramel Cream Isopods need a terrarium setup with medium humidity level. As the original climate of the Caramel Cream Isopods is tropical, they can grow in humid and warm environments at the same time.    The Caramel Cream Isopods make ideal pets because of their contribution towards the cleanliness of the terrarium’s ecosystem. Feeding the Caramel Cream Isopods is not difficult either. These isopods’ main food source is crushed eggshells and calcium-rich foods.    Caramel Cream Isopods are peaceful species. They can coexist with other species in the terrarium setup without any conflicts. These stunning isopods pose no danger to plants inside the terrarium.  Basic Care You can use the following instructions and tips to provide the best care to Caramel Cream Isopods. You can use an enclosure setup with a medium humidity level to house the Caramel Cream Isopods. It is essential to ensure the Caramel Cream Isopods get calcium-rich foods in the form of crushed egg shells. Don’t keep the enclosure in direct light.  Make use of a substrate mix with decaying organic matter and plant debris to meet the needs of Caramel Cream Isopods.  Feeding Caramel Cream Isopods Caramel Cream Isopods are relatively easy Cubaris species when it comes to feeding. The Caramel Cream Isopods can feed on decaying organic matter such as dry leaves and wood. They are fond of plant debris. These Cubaris isopods consume coconut fiber. They also consume leaf litter as found in the natural environment.  Appearance And Behaviour Caramel Cream Isopods thrive in medium to high-level humidity conditions.  These Cubaris sp isopods can be suitable choice for beginners because they are easy to keep and also easy to breed.  Caramel Cream Isopods are small-sized cute little isopods with capsule-like appearance.  These creamy white coloured isopods resemble milk chocolate in appearance.  You can make them stay alongside other species because they are peaceful isopods that will not cause conflicts.  Habitat The Caramel Cream Isopods is a species recognized for its milky-white color and calm nature. The Caramel Cream Isopods can live beside other species and plants in the terrarium in harmony. They are born alive unlike species that hatch from eggs.  Substrate Mix The Caramel Cream Isopods will need a substrate mix with coconut fibre mix and leaf litter to retain moisture within the terrarium setup. Isopod collectors can add natural supplements like decaying organic matter and plant debris for their growth. They can even add non-chlorinated water in a small dish within the setup. 

Zebra Isopods (Armadillidium maculatum) are the most commonly sought-after isopods. For most people, zebras are the first isopod they purchase as an aspiring hobbyist and breeder. They have a striking colour and can be line-bred/isolated to produce better stripes on them.   Zebra Isopods: Insight Place of Origin: France Scientific Name: Armadillidium maculatum Environment: Semi-arid Ideal Temperature: 75℉-80℉ Breeding Difficulty: Intermediate General Size: 1.8 cm Rareness: Low Humidity Range: 70%-80% Diet: soft-boiled plants, fish food, moss Supplements: calcium powder   Zebra Isopods: Abstract These are some of the isopods that pet lovers keep for aesthetics, more than just a cleanup tool in terrariums and vivariums. They have striking black and white stripes on their exoskeleton, which helps to ward off predators in the wild. Though they are from the family of common pill bugs, their distinctive features stood out. These beautiful species are native to the arid regions of the Mediterranean and Southern France.    Zebra Isopods: Special Characteristics They have distinct black and white stripes, which resemble the pattern of zebras.  They have smooth, domed, and tough exteriors. These roly polys grow up to 1.8 cm. Their antennae are shorter compared to other isopod species.  These species prefer moderate to high ventilation.  They are from the deciduous forests of the Mediterranean and French regions. When threatened, these isopods roll into a ball. Resilient and easy to maintain.  They are active and not too shy once they establish and settle in.  These isopods make the best choice for beginners. They are widely popular isopods and are budget-friendly.    Zebra Isopods: Morphs Zebra Isopods are commonly seen in black and white stripes. However, there are various morphs developed by breeders. Some of them are:- Yellow Zebra Isopods: They have yellow and black stripes. Chocolate Zebra Isopods: Has white stripes with a dark brown base colour. Dalmatian Zebra Isopods: Also known as high white isopods. They have a predominantly white color with black spots.  Spotted Zebra Isopods: They have white spots instead of stripes.    Zebra Isopods: Artificial Enclosure There are several factors to consider for an ideal enclosure of Zebra Isopods. These isopods require a large container to accommodate their needs. Though the size may vary depending on the colony, it is always better to opt for bigger enclosure boxes for them to breed and thrive.    It is essential to provide ventilation to the enclosure for good airflow and humidity maintenance. Choosing a container with ventilation outlets covered with mesh will be suitable for the Zebra Isopods. For those who prefer DIY, drilling holes in the container's sides will also help provide the necessary ventilation.    These holes should be strategically placed to facilitate cross-ventilation while minimizing escape risk. While zebra isopods may not possess exceptional climbing abilities, covering any ventilation openings with a fine mesh is still advisable to prevent them from escaping. This precautionary measure ensures the safety of the isopods within their enclosure.   Zebra Isopods: Substrate The right substrate mix helps to provide an optimal environment for the isopods. A classic choice for substrate mix is the ABG Mix, which offers the perfect base for the isopod setting.    In addition to the mix, the coir of coconut works as an excellent material to retain moisture. This will help make the same environment as their original environment. Coconut coir and sphagnum moss are very loose materials, which will help them burrow inside as they do in their natural environment.   Leaf litter is the primary food source and provides hiding spaces for isopods. They contribute to the nutrient cycle within the enclosure of the isopods.    The discharge from the earthworms is a rich source of organic matter, and it contains microorganisms. It provides valuable nutrients for the isopods. This addition promotes soil fertility and helps sustain a thriving ecosystem within the enclosure.    Zebra Isopods prefer arid temperatures with less humidity. While maintaining overall high humidity, providing a drier section within the habitat allows the isopods to choose their preferred microclimate. When misting, make sure to mist on a small area, leaving the rest of the container dry.    Zebra Isopods: Tips to Care Zebra isopods require a less humid environment but not a dry and deserted environment. Therefore, it is essential to provide the necessary moisture for hydration.  Provide a lot of hiding spots within the enclosure for the isopods to form their colonies. Adding wooden bark, dried leaves, and stones to the enclosure helps to mimic their natural environment and acts as hiding spots. It is important to maintain the temperature range of the enclosure. Extreme temperature fluctuations can be stressful for the isopods.  Regular maintenance is crucial to keep the enclosure clean. Make sure to remove excess uneaten food, molting, and any mold to keep a healthy environment.  An overcrowded isopod enclosure may lead to competition for resources. Therefore, it is important to maintain the number in an enclosure. If the isopod population is increasing, relocate to a bigger enclosure or provide a separate enclosure for the new colonies.    Zebra Isopods: Temperature and Humidity Zebra Isopods prefer a slightly warm temperature of 75℉ to 80℉. It is crucial to maintain the temperature. During winter, it is ideal to provide heating mats to the enclosure to maintain the optimal temperature.    It can be difficult to maintain a balance between humidity levels, particularly when ventilation and a dry region are required inside the enclosure. Excessively high humidity levels should be avoided, even if some moisture is required, especially to support the isopods' hydration and maintain a healthy substrate.    Zebra Isopods: Food and Diet Feeding them with the right food and having a perfect mix of supplements will help make them remain healthy. It also ensures that they are reproducing healthy offspring.   The container in which they are kept should be supplied with a large amount of decaying organic materials, which will help them get the necessary nutrients. In addition, litters of leaf or bark of the wood can also be fed as part of the feeding cycle. Other supplements include:-   Flakes of Fish Food: It is an easy supplement and contains high amounts of protein. Pieces of Vegetables: A portion of the vegetable or the remains from vegetable cutting in small amounts can be supplied. It has to be ensured that it should not be supplied in large quantities. Food specially made for the Isopods: Specially designed food always has the best mix of nutrients, which will make them remain healthy and give a longer life span.