A Glimpse
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Scientific Name: Cubaris sp. "Rose Quartz"
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Family: Armadillidae
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Origin: Southeast Asia (likely Thailand — most Cubaris sp. in the hobby originate from Thai limestone karst regions)
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Adult Size: Approximately 15–20 mm
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Difficulty: Medium to hard
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Rarity: Very rare
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Temperature: 22–27°C
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Humidity: 70–80%
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Ventilation: Good airflow essential — cross-ventilation preferred
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Diet: Leaf litter, white rotten wood, vegetables, protein supplements
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Supplements: Cuttlebone, crushed limestone, oyster shell
Cubaris Rose Quartz: Overview
We'll be upfront — Rose Quartz is a newer and rarer Cubaris morph, and there isn't a huge body of long-term keeping data specifically for this variety compared to more established Cubaris like Rubber Duckies or Panda Kings. What we can tell you is that their care follows the same general principles as other Cubaris sp., which are well understood, and we'll walk you through those below.
The name comes from their soft pink colouration, and like most Cubaris they have that characteristic rounded body shape that makes the genus so popular. They're a genuinely attractive isopod — subtle rather than loud, which is part of the appeal if you're drawn to more understated species.
Cubaris Care: The Basics
Most Cubaris sp. in the hobby originate from limestone cave systems and karst landscapes in Southeast Asia, primarily Thailand. This background shapes everything about how you keep them.
They want warmth, humidity, and — this is the one people underestimate — ventilation. Cubaris need airflow. Stagnant, humid air is one of the fastest ways to lose a colony. Cross-ventilation is ideal: mesh vents on opposite sides of the enclosure so air actually moves through rather than just sitting. The instinct to seal everything up to keep humidity high is understandable, but it'll cause problems. You need both humidity and airflow at the same time, which takes a bit of balancing.
Temperature should sit between 22–27°C. Standard UK room temperature is often on the lower end of this, so a heat mat on a thermostat may be useful, particularly in winter or in cooler rooms. Avoid placing the enclosure in direct sunlight or near radiators where temperatures can spike — Cubaris don't tolerate sudden swings well.
Enclosure and Substrate
Use a plastic storage box or glass enclosure with a secure lid. Cubaris are burrowers, so provide a good depth of substrate — at least 10cm (4 inches). Use a quality organic topsoil or forest floor mix with plenty of decaying leaf litter and crumbled white rotten wood mixed through. Keep the substrate moist but not waterlogged on the humid side, and allow a gradient so one end is slightly drier.
On top of the substrate, layer generously with leaf litter, sphagnum moss, and pieces of cork bark for hides. Cubaris like to tuck themselves away, so the more cover you provide, the more secure they'll feel — and secure isopods eat, breed, and establish better than stressed ones.
Many Cubaris keepers add pieces of limestone to the enclosure, which mimics the karst environments these species come from in the wild. Whether or not it makes a measurable difference is debatable, but the isopods do seem to congregate around it, and it doubles as a calcium source.
Diet
The foundation of any Cubaris diet is leaf litter and white rotten wood — these should always be present in the enclosure and will make up the majority of what they eat. On top of that, offer supplementary vegetables in small amounts: courgette, carrot, sweet potato, and baby corn all tend to be accepted. Remove uneaten fresh food within a day or two to avoid mould.
Protein is important. Offer dried gammarus shrimp, fish flakes, or fish pellets once or twice a week. Cubaris tend to be quite protein-hungry compared to some other isopod genera.
Calcium should always be available — a piece of cuttlebone, some crushed limestone, or oyster shell in the enclosure is fine. This supports healthy exoskeleton development, particularly for growing juveniles and gravid females.
Breeding
Like most Cubaris sp., don't expect explosive colony growth. Cubaris generally reproduce at a moderate pace compared to something like Porcellio or Porcellionides species. Brood sizes tend to be smaller and the time between generations is longer. This is normal — patience is part of keeping Cubaris.
The best thing you can do to encourage breeding is to keep conditions stable. Consistent temperature, consistent humidity, good ventilation, plenty of food, and minimal disturbance. Cubaris don't appreciate being dug out for inspection — resist the urge to check on them every few days. Leave them alone and let the colony establish.
Starting with a group of at least 5 gives you a reasonable chance of having both sexes represented, though a larger starter group always improves your odds.
Being Honest About What We Don't Know
Rose Quartz is rare enough that most of the keeping advice available is based on general Cubaris sp. care rather than years of specific experience with this particular morph. That's the reality of keeping newer varieties — you're working with solid genus-level knowledge, but the fine details of how this specific morph responds to captive conditions are still being figured out by the hobby as a whole.
That doesn't mean they're a gamble. Cubaris sp. care is well understood, and if you follow the principles above — warmth, humidity, airflow, deep substrate, leaf litter, protein, calcium, and patience — you're giving them what they need. But if you're looking for a species with decades of proven captive breeding data and guaranteed results, this isn't it. If you're comfortable with that and you appreciate the colour, they're a lovely addition to a collection.
At £90 for 5, these sit at the higher end of what most people would spend on isopods, so we'd recommend having some experience with other Cubaris species first. If you've successfully kept Rubber Duckies, Panda Kings, Pak Chong, or similar, you'll have a good feel for what Cubaris need and Rose Quartz shouldn't throw you any surprises.
