Watch an ivory millipede move and you understand why people rarely stop at one. The legs travel in waves down the length of the body, dozens of them rippling in sequence, and the animal glides rather than walks. Add cream and black banding along every segment and you have one of the most quietly hypnotic invertebrates you can keep, and one that will still be with you a decade from now.
Introduction
This is Chicobolus spinigerus, sold as the Ivory Millipede or the Florida Ivory Millipede, and it is the only species in its genus. It comes from the damp woodland of the southeastern United States, through Florida and up into Georgia, Alabama and the Carolinas, where it spends its time under logs and through the leaf litter breaking down fallen wood. It is widely reckoned the best starting millipede in the hobby, and having kept a fair range of invertebrates over the years I would not argue: hardy, long-lived, docile and more willing to be seen than most of its relatives.
Appearance
A substantial animal. Adults commonly run from about 4 cm up to 9 cm depending on the individual, with females tending to outgrow males, and the body is a smooth cylinder of tightly-fitted segments. The classic look is dark banding, black through to deep purple, laid over a pale ivory base, with legs somewhere between tan, brown and pink. Worth knowing: this is a genuinely variable species across its range, so colour and banding differ noticeably between animals rather than coming off a production line. Startled, an ivory coils itself into a flat spiral with the vulnerable underside tucked away, which is as good a defence as a slow animal needs.
Care
Simple, provided you get the substrate right, because for a millipede the substrate is not bedding but the larder. The bulk of it should be well-rotted hardwood, crumbling to the touch, mixed through flake soil and organic topsoil, with a deep layer of hardwood leaf litter on top. Go deep, at least 10 to 15 cm, because they burrow to moult and a shallow tank will cost you animals. Skip coco coir as the base: it holds water and offers nothing edible, which for an animal that eats its own floor is a wasted layer. Our flake soil and the botanicals in our accessories range cover the mix. Keep the enclosure humid but not waterlogged, warm at normal room temperature in a heated UK home, and add a permanent calcium source such as cuttlebone, since a millipede's shell is calcified and it moults throughout life. A springtail culture in with them keeps mould down.
Diet
Decaying hardwood does most of the feeding, supplemented by leaf litter, and both should simply always be present rather than offered as meals. On top of that they will take soft fruit and vegetables, cucumber, banana, courgette and squash all going down well, and a little fish flake or dried insect food occasionally does no harm. Remove uneaten fresh food after a day or two. If a millipede is refusing food and looks dull, the usual culprit is substrate that has run out of rotten wood rather than anything you have put in a dish.
Handling and behaviour
They are nocturnal but far more surface-active than many hobby millipedes, so you will actually see this one. They are also thoroughly safe to handle: no bite, no sting, no speed. The one thing to know is that millipedes can release a defensive fluid if they are gripped or startled roughly, which stains skin, irritates it if it is left on, and in an eye causes a chemical burn that needs treating, so watch that children wash their hands before touching their faces, since they account for almost every eye injury on record, so let them walk across an open palm rather than holding them, and wash your hands afterwards. Handled calmly they simply amble.
Who is this for?
A first millipede, above all. It asks very little, it tolerates a beginner's mistakes, and it is large and active enough to be genuinely engaging rather than a creature you keep meaning to look at. It suits bioactive keepers too, since a group will work through leaf litter and turn substrate alongside isopods, and it suits anyone who wants an invertebrate that will still be around in years to come. When you are ready to go bigger, the African Giant Chocolate is the obvious next step, or the extraordinary Pink Dragon if you want something stranger. The full range sits in our millipede collection. And if you want the full husbandry write-up rather than a product page, our ivory millipede care guide goes deeper on substrate depth, moulting and breeding.
Our ivories are captive-bred and go out under our live arrival guarantee, packed with moss and cover in a double-walled box. Dispatch is Monday to Thursday by Royal Mail next day before 1pm, so no animal is left waiting through a weekend.